[RBW] Heat treated handlebars for sale - Albatross & Wavie

[Joe S]

Both were mounted and test ridden on short ride, then taken off. 
Excellent to like-new condition.
$80 shipped, Conus.

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Re: [RBW] Re: Let’s have a St. Louis Meet Up!

[Joe S]

Hi Andy,

I also lived in Florissant(Black Jack) from 6th grade through high school.
I left in 1975, so it's been a while.
I moved a lot for the first 30 or so years of my life. For the last several
years I've been going back and riding in areas that I lived and have done
several. I've ridden the Katy Trail a few times, but need to get back and
ride closer to my old home sometime soon.

Joe S

On Sat, Apr 25, 2020 at 7:57 AM ascpgh  wrote:

> Sounds like fun. I lived in Florissant until I was 14, I bootlegged
> several rides to the Arch in the few years before moving to Arkansas.
>
> In April 2012 a group of us met in Cumberland, MD and rode the GAP north,
> overnighting in Confluence, PA stopping in Ohiopyle to tour Frank Lloyd
> Wright's Fallingwater.
>
> A N'or Easter shortened the ride for those facing travel back to and up
> the eastern seaboard as our shuttle company was based in Ohiopyle and
> amenable to the adjustment. My shuttle company (wife) was out of cell
> service, on the original plan, so I rode on in snow to West Newton to meet
> her as the rest rode back to their cars in Cumberland. Mark Irwin from
> Michigan remained in Ohiopyle at the state park campground.
>
> We had lots of conversations and comradery. The in-person experience and
> seeing everyones' bikes was worthwhile. I personally was smitten from then
> on by generator hubs and LED lights. My take-aways probably not appropriate
> in the post C-19 world.
>
> <http://goog_1955199904>
> https://photos.app.goo.gl/P47mQDqrze1dN5pc8
>
> Andy Cheatham
> Pittsburgh
>
> On Thursday, April 23, 2020 at 4:18:26 PM UTC-4, Nathan Mattia wrote:
>>
>> Well, I’ve never done a group ride in my life, so I’m not suggesting that
>> for the meet up.
>>
>> As far as I’m concerned, we can all agree to ride in from different
>> points on the compass so that we don’t have to calculate our velocity and
>> distance and radii of possible transmission under speed.
>>
>> The point is, the conversation and comradery.  Could they be had on an
>> online forum?  Sure, but it’s not the same.  Could we accomplish those
>> safely?  I think so.
>>
>>
>> On Thursday, April 23, 2020 at 2:57:12 PM UTC-5, Benjamin Kelley wrote:
>>>
>>> Glad that someone is beginning to look at it at least. I hadn't heard
>>> any of that. It makes sense that velocity is going to affect distance.
>>> Tho, this could cause concern for the increase number of people that are
>>> offset from public transit using the bike lanes.
>>> I've been maintaining 100% masking wearing while outside the home,
>>> including when biking anyways.
>>>
>>> On Thu, Apr 23, 2020 at 3:44 PM somervillebikes 
>>> wrote:
>>>
>>>> I don't think the 2 meter rule necessarily applies to cycling or
>>>> running. There is a computer-simulated model out of Europe that suggests
>>>> that for higher speed travel modes, like running and cycling, you might
>>>> need far more than 6 feet.  Granted, it's a model, not peer-reviewed, and
>>>> there's also scant data that points to viral transmission occurring
>>>> outdoors, but then again very little is really known for sure about the
>>>> transmission of this virus. My regular riding buddy and I decided to end
>>>> our gentleman rides two weeks ago. I'd rather err on the safe side.
>>>>
>>>> Anton
>>>> velolumino.com
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> On Thursday, April 23, 2020 at 3:27:51 PM UTC-4, Benjamin Kelley wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>> I'm currently in NYC but will be moving back to KC next month so I'll
>>>>> be on the other side of the state from you soon.
>>>>> I'd be down for a train trip over and ride later in the year perhaps,
>>>>> My work goes on so I'm as busy as ever during all this.
>>>>>
>>>>> I also tend to agree with you, a small group ride/chat can be done
>>>>> safely.  You don't have to ride in a peloton or paceline to ride together.
>>>>> Can easily chat at 6ft distances. Not touch each others bikes. Wear masks.
>>>>> Etc...
>>>>>
>>>>> --ben
>>>>>
>>>>> On Thu, Apr 23, 2020 at 3:13 PM Nathan Mattia 
>>>>> wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>> Hello Bill,
>>>>>>
>>>>>> When Samwise Hillborne was ready to roll last month, the FIRST ride I
>>>>>> made was from here 

Re: [RBW] My Clem Smith JR. Build revealed!

[Joe S]

Not your usual Rivendell, but very nice.

On Wed, Mar 18, 2020 at 7:46 PM Michael Morrissey <
michaelgmorris...@gmail.com> wrote:

> That looks great! How do you like the drivetrain and shifters?
>
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Re: [RBW] Re: ideas for daytime visibility: vests and whatnot

[Joe S]

I've been hit twice by cars in the last 10 years. After the second one put
me in the hospital I started riding with Carhartt Force Class 3 Hi-vis
shirts. I have both long and short sleeve versions. Not very stylish, but I
haven't had a close call since using them. I realize that could be more
luck than anything else, but I'm sticking with them. Lighter and more
comfortable than wearing a vest. I'm not a cycling jersey type of rider
anyway.

On Fri, Sep 27, 2019 at 2:46 PM PaulS  wrote:

> Some of the responses above seem to reference dark/night-time riding.  I
> thought the question was regarding daylight hours.
>
> For me, from what I've observed both on the bike and driving, is that
> cyclists' apparel does not do anything during daylight hours.  Light,
> reflective, dark, orange, etc.---once the cyclist rides under the shadow of
> a tree, building, etc., they "disappear".  Reflective gear doesn't work,
> since half the cars have their lights off and there is too much ambient
> light.  In my opinion, a light emitting source is needed.
>
> Bright rear AND front lights are a must.  BLINKING mode, not constant on,
> got my attention the most.  Maybe even two lights.  Don't get a minimalist
> Knog or the likes. I can barely see those at night time, let alone during
> the day.  I use PDW Radbot and one of their other taillights (can't
> remember the name), and Lezyne headlight (~1200 lumens).  Very bright and
> visible in full daylight.
>
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Re: [RBW] Wanted: Clem L 52 or 59

[Joe S]

I have a virtually new blue 59 Clem L I want to sell. I'd sell either the
complete bike or frame, fork, headset. Only ridden 127 sunny miles.

On Tue, Sep 24, 2019 at 12:16 PM 'Justin August' via RBW Owners Bunch <
rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com> wrote:

> Anyone holding a relatively used frame they’d like to let go for less than
> retail?
>
> -J
>
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Re: [RBW] Re: Selling a frame

[Joe S]

700c or 650b?

On Sat, Sep 21, 2019 at 5:14 PM Joe Bernard  wrote:

> Oh, you oversold the damage by a lot. Sure, it could use new paint
> someday, but as is it would make a great town and dirt bomber without the
> dreaded "hope I don't scratch it" anxiety. Somebody buy this!
>
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[RBW] Re: Water Gap Adventure Loop - April 13-14

[Joe S]

Bobby, this is a great ride.Unfortunately I plan to be in Florida on 
those dates.  I've been through there twice; camping in Worthington State 
Forest where my wife and I spotted a bear meandering along the ridge line 
up behind our campsite when we did a 3-day last summer.  It definitely is 
remote for its proximity to the urban areas of the northeast.  I rode my 
Atlantis and my wife her Betty Ford.  We started out from the Myers Country 
Motel and did a circle back to pick up our car.  This is a family-run 
business and they were very nice and accommodating, allowing us to leave 
our car and pick it up when we came back.  It rained hard the whole first 
day but after that was nice.

I think your assessment is on the mark - one long hill climb (had trouble 
both times following my maps nearby (on the Milford side).  We rode the 
Paulinskill Valley Trail last year.  That was the first time for me.  It 
definitely is single track in places.  It was difficult to find the point 
at which we joined the trail and if it hadn't been for a kind-hearted local 
rider we would have been on a local road (summer traffic, but good 
shoulder/lane) most of the way up to Swartswood State Park where we spent a 
night.  There were a number of equestrian parties on the Paulinskill Trail 
and it was muddy as a result of the rain.  Not sure how that will be in 
"mud season" as we used to refer to it in Vermont, but watch out for the 
horse manure.  My wife, who had not done any mountain biking, did well on 
it with a moderately-loaded Betty Foy, but if it has been rainy or a lot of 
late snow, you might want to reconsider the route.

All in all, a wonderful area.  As you say, lots of places to enjoy in 
Milford.  All the best and I'm looking forward to the photos!

Joe

On Friday, February 8, 2013 11:17:27 PM UTC-5, Montclair BobbyB wrote:
>
> Attention Adventure Riders:
>
> I am planning a 2-day "adventure" ride from the Delaware Water Gap (on the 
> NJ/PA border) up to Milford, PA, then back to the Gap the following day. 
>  The element of "adventure" is due to the varied terrain we will encounter, 
> along with any last-minute or on-the-fly route changes (that could be 
> required due to several uncontrollable factors)... The only requirement: be 
> flexible, be adventurous, have fun...
>
> Note: This ride is NOT RIV RALLY EAST; this is IN ADDITION TO Riv Rally 
> East (which is tentatively scheduled for early May in Virginia, stay tuned.)
>
> Here are details about the Gap Adventure Loop:
>
> *Route Summary (total approx 90 miles over 2 days), this will require an 
> overnight stay in a B&B/Motel/Cottage in Milford PA; in other words, this 
> is a light tour; you will need to carry enough gear for the 2-day ride:*
>
> The Delaware Water Gap was formed billions of years ago (OK, maybe only 
> millions) by ancient glaciers.  Today it is an impressive natural landmark 
> (yes, Jersey has them) where the Delaware River cuts through the Kittatinny 
> Mountain range in Western NJ, just East of Stroudsburg, PA.  Our Day1 route 
> takes us up the Delware River along Old Mine Road, perhaps the oldest road 
> in the US (once used by Dutch settlers as a mining route, hence the name). 
> The rolling terrain consists of a mixture of paved and dirt roads, passing 
> through National Recreation and State Forest areas... It's suprisingly 
> remote for NJ.  We will spend the night in quaint, historic Milford, PA, 
> just North of Dingman's Ferry over on the PA side.  There are several 
> lodging options in Milford, and plenty of places to eat (See below links).
>
> The Day 2 route is a bit more varied.  After crossing back into NJ we 
> start off with a fairly strenous hill climb up into Stokes State Forest, 
> where we will traverse the heart of this rugged, beautiful forested 
> preserve on paved, jeep and single track trail.  There may be a few 
> dismount/portage spots (i.e. stream crossings, rock gardens, rooty 
> sections), but these are relatively minor.  The route emerges from Stokes 
> Forest, continuing over back roads down to the Paulinskil Trail, which is a 
> dirt and gravel rail-trail (popular with the equestrian community) that 
> runs North-South down the Paulinskil Valley on the East side of the 
> Kittatinny Ridge (note: we ride North on the West side of the Ridge on Day 
> 1).  The Paulinskil Trail ends just 1/2 mile up the road from our starting 
> point, near the Water Gap. 
>
> The terrain on Day 1 is rolling, with no major climbs.
> The terrain on Day 2 includes a pretty challenging climb early on, and a 
> few moderate uphills in the heart of Stokes, followed by a decent downhill 
> and a few rollers to get to the Paulinskil, which is a flat, but mixed 
> dirt/gravel surface that requires some pretty serious pedaling.
>
> *Lodging Sat Night (in Milford, PA):*  You will be responsible for 
> arranging your own lodging.  Last time I slept at the Myers Country Motel 
> (which is actually a collection of basic, but

[RBW] Re: Questions: 9-speed cassette to 7- or 8-speed switch

[Joe S]

Thank you all for the information thus far.  I'm leaning towards an 8-
speed and the information from William and Jim and DougP is making
think I should stay pat on the chainrings.  The information you have
provided on the chains is encouraging.  I most likely will trade out
my 9-speed chain for an 8-speed, though I am understanding the 9-speed
should be ok.  I neglected to say at the outset that an impetus for me
in making the change (besides the fact that wear and tear is starting
to dictate it is time) was that I had a problem with a dropped chain
under load on my last tour.  Fortunately I was able to extricate
myself from the problem, but the more I thought about it afterwards,
the more I thought that a narrower chain with more sprockets was more
of a liability on the road than a wider chain (which in theory would
be stronger and easier to maintain) and fewer sprockets.

On Feb 13, 12:56 pm, Joe S  wrote:
> I enjoy checking out the information here daily and have taken
> advantage of it and contributed once or twice in the past.  Now I'm
> thinking about making some changes to my Atlantis, so I would like to
> take advantage of the knowledge and experience out there.  I've been
> able to find some information here on this topic in the past, but
> thought I would ask again for any new insight/experiences, since this
> will be the first time I've converted cassettes.  I like the low gears
> for loaded touring and am finding I don't use the high ones so much
> any more on my daily commute.  I still ride an old 7-speed hybrid
> occasionally and think 7 would work even better on the Atlantis.
>
> My current setup on my Atlantis is pretty much stock Riv -
>
> Campy triple front derailleur
> Sugino XD2 crank 172.5 46/36/24
> Shimano HG-61 9-speed 12-36 cassette
> Shimano XT hub
> Shimano XT long cage rear derailleur
> Bar end shifters - Shimano Dura Ace in friction mode
>
> I would like to go to a 7-speed cassette, 13-34; 46/34/22 chain rings
>
> I still have a good, workable - for me - gi range with the setup
> contemplated, but would there be an advantage to going with an 8-speed
> cassette instead?
>
> Other questions -
> Will this work without changing derailleurs?
> Would the Silver Shifters work well in this setup?
> Does the hub require a spacer for the 7-speed cassette?  Any other
> spacers?
> What about chains for 7-speed?...8-speed?
> Are there any gotcha's anyone can think of in making this work
> smoothly?
>
> Thank you,
> Joe

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[RBW] Re: Questions: 9-speed cassette to 7- or 8-speed switch

[Joe S]

Based on the feedback here I am leaning now towards an 8-speed and
given the incompatibility of a 22T BCD chainring, it may be best to
stick with the 24/36/46 chainrings.  I just did a quick search and it
appears that there is a 13-34 8-speed.  I'm not sure how readily
available they are or the cost, but I think it's worth looking at.
You hit the nail on the head, though, as I am "intrigued" by 7s and
have found my 7 perfect for my purposes, excepting I have never toured
with it.

On Feb 13, 9:13 pm, dougP  wrote:
> Joe:
>
> You mention you don't use the high ones much on your daily commute,
> and that's probably typical of most of us.  You also mention using
> your Atlantis for loaded touring.  My Atlantis is the only 8 speed
> bike I've owned & I've fooled around with all sorts of cassette
> combinations.  For loaded touring, I've observed that fairly closely
> spaced gearing (2 tooth differences) in the mid-range allows a
> forgiving choice of gears and shifts easy.  My all time favorite
> cluster is the 13-28 7 speed but that's not quite low enough with a
> serious load.  Adding a 32t or 34t big cog to make an 8 speed takes
> care of that issue.  And I'm still running the standard 24/36/46 front
> rings.
>
> If you're really intrigued by 7s, and there's lots of people who swear
> by it & love it, just get the 13-34 and the spacer, and don't mess
> with the chain rings for now.  Ride ita lot.  You may find out the
> 24 x 34 low is fine for your terrain & loads, and the spacing works
> for you.
>
> All of this stuff is pretty forgiving & easy to change back if
> something doesn't work out.  If you're friction shifting 9 speed you
> won't have any issues with fewer cogs.  While un-modified cassettes
> may shift better than customs, cogs & spacers can be mixed'n'matched
> in surprising ways and still work.  Be forwarned this exercise can be
> a black hole for time & effort but it's a fun hobby.
>
> dougP
>
> On Feb 13, 9:56 am, Joe S  wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> > I enjoy checking out the information here daily and have taken
> > advantage of it and contributed once or twice in the past.  Now I'm
> > thinking about making some changes to my Atlantis, so I would like to
> > take advantage of the knowledge and experience out there.  I've been
> > able to find some information here on this topic in the past, but
> > thought I would ask again for any new insight/experiences, since this
> > will be the first time I've converted cassettes.  I like the low gears
> > for loaded touring and am finding I don't use the high ones so much
> > any more on my daily commute.  I still ride an old 7-speed hybrid
> > occasionally and think 7 would work even better on the Atlantis.
>
> > My current setup on my Atlantis is pretty much stock Riv -
>
> > Campy triple front derailleur
> > Sugino XD2 crank 172.5 46/36/24
> > Shimano HG-61 9-speed 12-36 cassette
> > Shimano XT hub
> > Shimano XT long cage rear derailleur
> > Bar end shifters - Shimano Dura Ace in friction mode
>
> > I would like to go to a 7-speed cassette, 13-34; 46/34/22 chain rings
>
> > I still have a good, workable - for me - gi range with the setup
> > contemplated, but would there be an advantage to going with an 8-speed
> > cassette instead?
>
> > Other questions -
> > Will this work without changing derailleurs?
> > Would the Silver Shifters work well in this setup?
> > Does the hub require a spacer for the 7-speed cassette?  Any other
> > spacers?
> > What about chains for 7-speed?...8-speed?
> > Are there any gotcha's anyone can think of in making this work
> > smoothly?
>
> > Thank you,
> > Joe

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[RBW] Re: Questions: 9-speed cassette to 7- or 8-speed switch

[Joe S]

Exactly why I needed to ask the question.  I wasn't planning on
swapping the cranks out for a 94/58mm BCD (I didn't know that a 22T
chainring did not come on a 74mm BCD).  As I thought about making this
change over the last few months, whenever I saw something interesting
I made a note.  Somewhere along the line I saw something that made me
think a 22T chainring would make a nice low end for my triple.  I
still need to go back and pull together my notes, but this puts off
the 22T chainring idea.  And as was also noted the 2T really doesn't
buy that much.  Thanks!

On Feb 13, 4:54 pm, William  wrote:
> The biggest gotcha is that you can't run a 22T chainring on a 74mm bolt
> circle.  Are you changing out cranks to ones with a 94/58mm BCD?

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[RBW] Questions: 9-speed cassette to 7- or 8-speed switch

[Joe S]

I enjoy checking out the information here daily and have taken
advantage of it and contributed once or twice in the past.  Now I'm
thinking about making some changes to my Atlantis, so I would like to
take advantage of the knowledge and experience out there.  I've been
able to find some information here on this topic in the past, but
thought I would ask again for any new insight/experiences, since this
will be the first time I've converted cassettes.  I like the low gears
for loaded touring and am finding I don't use the high ones so much
any more on my daily commute.  I still ride an old 7-speed hybrid
occasionally and think 7 would work even better on the Atlantis.

My current setup on my Atlantis is pretty much stock Riv -

Campy triple front derailleur
Sugino XD2 crank 172.5 46/36/24
Shimano HG-61 9-speed 12-36 cassette
Shimano XT hub
Shimano XT long cage rear derailleur
Bar end shifters - Shimano Dura Ace in friction mode

I would like to go to a 7-speed cassette, 13-34; 46/34/22 chain rings

I still have a good, workable - for me - gi range with the setup
contemplated, but would there be an advantage to going with an 8-speed
cassette instead?

Other questions -
Will this work without changing derailleurs?
Would the Silver Shifters work well in this setup?
Does the hub require a spacer for the 7-speed cassette?  Any other
spacers?
What about chains for 7-speed?...8-speed?
Are there any gotcha's anyone can think of in making this work
smoothly?

Thank you,
Joe

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[RBW] Re: Why I Aspire

[Joe S]

Before I bought my Atlantis, I had narrowed the field to 2-3 bikes.  I
wanted a bike for my daily commute to replace my sturdy Giant hybrid,
but also to use it for touring.  The only negative that I could come
up with for the Atlantis was that it was such a beautiful bike, it
would be a shame for it to have to take the beating of a daily
commute.  After all, I had used the Giant for 5-6 years and it was
quite beaten up.

I am so happy that I overcame this thought because it gives me
pleasure every day to ride it.  Not only is it aesthetically pleasing,
but it is a pleasure to ride.  I want to ride it because it is a
beautiful bike.  Yes, it does show the kind of normal wear you would
expect from commuting and touring, but, to conjure up a phrase from my
service days, it's growing "salty", i.e., nicely aged and weathered
and most importantly, enjoyed.  To reiterate the thought: a bike is
for riding.  If the $$ isn't a barrier, do it!

On Nov 14, 10:21 am, Tim McNamara  wrote:
> On Nov 14, 2011, at 12:53 AM, Bob wrote:
>
> > Someday I will own one of the lovely-lugged bicycles that are the
> > subject of this group.  As I've mentioned, the thing that keeps me
> > aspiring is the thought of doing this to such a nice bike:
>
> >http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=170728473966#ht_...
>
> > This is what my bicycles look like after moderate use.
>
> Time for some individual philosophy:  it's a bike not a holy relic.  Way too 
> many people buy a nice custom bike, the bike of their dreams, and then don't 
> ride it.  To me few things in cycling are sadder than a 10 year old custom 
> bike that still has the original tires, no dirt on it and unblemished paint.  
> Be a bike rider, not a bike polisher.
>
> Beausage.  Learn it.  Live it.  ;-)

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[RBW] Re: Winter bike trails in northern Virginia

[Joe S]

After 8 years of commuting on the W&OD, the last 4 daily, I finally
invested in studded tires this year.  While it is true that the number
of days when studded tires are absolutely necessary is limited, those
days tend to come in blocks of 3-4 days or a week at a time.  It
doesn't take much to feel 'stale' by not commuting.

I've commuted, through office moves, between Leesburg and Reston/
Vienna and there are areas of the trail where there are micro climates
(mainly because they are sheltered and the sun doesn't reach the trail
over the banks or through the trees).  Some of these are as long as
50-60 yards.  Then there are bridges and also underpasses where snow
blows and doesn't melt.  So, even when it warms up enough to melt the
snow, melt/freeze cycles and shade make studded tires useful for a
longer period of time than you might expect.

Another factor that pushed me to studded tires is the freeze/melt
cycle.  It always killed me not to commute on a really cold, sunny
morning after a freeze the night before because the snow that melted
on the previous day had set up ice patches on the trail.  This happens
everywhere.  The thing is that it would then warm up during the day
and be perfectly fine for the evening commute, just puddles
everywhere.  I sometimes commuted on these days but it was a drag in
the morning having to dismount and push my bike over and around the
larger patches of ice.  It was necessary to build in extra time on the
commute.

A problem with the W&OD and ice is after the ice after snow.  I've
commuted perfectly well on mountain bike tires in fresh or recent
snow.  However, once pedestrians start on the trail, it's all over as
frozen foot steps are about the worst to navigate, IMHO.  I'm
expecting, but haven't tried it yet, to be able to better navigate the
frozen foot steps.  Studded tires have got to work better than not
having them.  The only cost I see is a slower (and time-wise longer)
ride.

On Oct 24, 8:14 am, Steve Palincsar  wrote:
> On Sun, 2011-10-23 at 19:01 -0700, dweendaddy wrote:
> > Studded tires. What you lose in rolling resistance you gain x10 in
> > safety and stability.
>
> Trouble is, there are only a few days each winter when they'll be of any
> value, and only a few places.

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Re: [RBW] Fall is here and I'm All Rivved Up!

[Joe S]

It does sound nice, doesn't it?

 It was 44 degrees this morning here in Grand Rapids, Michigan. 63 degrees
outside now. My favorite time of year!

On Tue, Sep 6, 2011 at 12:44 PM, Seth Vidal  wrote:

> On Tue, Sep 6, 2011 at 12:41 PM, Liesl  wrote:
> >
> > Smiling as I rode, and thinking how it all suits me in every way, I
> > also realized that here I was riding the bike, with its original style
> > decal and low serial number, that brought the 650B back from oblivion
> > and how perfectly it is suited to the smaller rider and how soft the
> > ride is over the traintracks and how this is a company that has truly
> > enriched my life ...  All this at a sunny and crisp 52 degrees under
> > maples and basswoods
>
> Umm. Where do you live, again?
>
> B/c 52 degrees would be very nice to see. :)
>
> Sounds like  a great ride.
>
> You know... if you'd like to rub it in more you could take pictures of
> your commute. :)
>
> -sv
>
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[RBW] Rust on Chain Stay

[Joe S]

I've had my Atlantis about 10 months and love it.  I ride it nearly
every day, usually on my 30 mile round-trip commute to and from work.

When I first rode the bike, the low stop setting on the front
derailleur was not set correctly.  It took throwing the chain off onto
the chain stay with minor jamming a few times before I realized what
was happening and the paint on the chain stay was taken off in a swath
of about 1/2 inch.  I haven't done anything to it other than to keep
checking (duh!) but now after a few weeks of bad timing and riding in
rain, I can see rust on the surface.  There isn't a lot of room
between the crank, chain stay and frame in this vicinity and I'm
thinking that to really get at the rust I would need to remove the
crank.  I don't mind giving this a shot, but will need to get a crank
puller and since I'm planning to tour on the bike in a month, I don't
want to get in a position where I'm getting tools, doing something new
and become pressed to get everything back and road tested with a
deadline looming.  What is the best way to contain the rust?  Can it
be done without removing the crank (at least for now)?

BTW, it seems to me that the high / low stop settings are very
sensitive as I had the chain and cassette replaced recently at my
LBS.  I wound up throwing the chain several times on my first ride
after getting the bike back, roughing up my nice polished crank.  This
time it was the high setting that I needed to adjust.  It seems to be
set correctly now but is this a configuration problem--I have a Campy
triple on the front and Shimano XT long cage on the rear?  I recall
reading somewhere (Sheldon Brown?) that these screws should not be
loose--they are loose but not excessively so and they seem to stay
once set correctly?  Is blue lock-tite a recommended solution?

Thanks for your advice.

Joe

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