[RBW] Re: New Bike-Trade Day - A(nother) Quickbeam

2022-02-01 Thread Paul Brodek
Fabulous Fort Lee!! Go Bridgemen!!! Er, Bridgepeople

Paul "Formerly From Fort Lee" Brodek
Hillsdale, NJ USA

On Monday, January 31, 2022 at 9:28:48 AM UTC-5 Patch T wrote:

> Hi Bunch,
>
> *tl:dr - Kyle's Quickbeam was too big. Mine was maybe too small. We 
> swapped. Photos.*
>
> I've ridden an orange Quickbeam for about 5 years. It's seen all sorts of 
> builds, all sorts of rides, camping trips, commutes; the slow end of a 
> toxic relationship and the start of a healthy one, an engagement, a 
> cross-country move (again), a pandemic a career change... As you can 
> imagine, I'm in love with the bike. My first and only Rivendell (so far) 
> but I don't really feel the itch for another. Ok maybe a Mountain Mixte. Or 
> Roadeo. Or Saluki, maybe. I digress. 
>
> I sold a few frames so I could purchase it, used, from an angel named John 
> who even let me pay in installments. I've learned a lot about bikes and 
> about wrenching, but also about sizing in the short 5 years since - one 
> thing I learned is that I should/could ride larger bikes than I thought. 
>
> For a while it was my only bike. Kyle from Golden Saddle Cycles used to 
> frequently catch me outside riding the QB back when I lived in LA, or when 
> I visited his shop, and every time he would remind me he'd gladly purchase 
> that bike when I'm ready to sell. You can imagine my answer - however, he 
> never let up. 
>
> Fast forward to cruising Instagram late last year, now living in NYC, and 
> I saw that Kyle finally got his holy grail - a silver Quickbeam - but in a 
> size too big for him. He thought he'd like to try out a French fit, but it 
> didn't work out. So I wrote him, thinking his new-to-him 56 would fit me 
> better (or, differently + nicely) than my beloved 54. He agreed, and we 
> packed and shipped each other our frames (he had me ship his to Black Magic 
> Paint!) 
>
> I've spent the past month rebuilding; highlights include a TA crank, shiny 
> VO fenders, Compass Maes Parallel bar, Swift rando bag, dyno lighting, Paul 
> brakes (minimoto front, touring rear), 38mm Gravelking slicks.
>
> Was it worth the $80ish in shipping? Maybe. It's not necessarily *more* 
> comfortable, but *differently* comfortable. I do like having a shorter 
> stem, and less seatpost showing than before - that feeling of being *in* 
> it, rather than *above* it. All in all - with the new color and different 
> (again) parts - it's kinda like a new bike day, for under $100.
>
> Patch
> BK/NYC
>  [image: image3 (2).jpeg][image: image1 (16).jpeg]
>

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[RBW] Re: Updates on, and further questions regarding the Riv Road Standard 1995

2022-01-28 Thread Paul Brodek
T'were I you I'd want to check out the fit with wheels/tires before 
committing. Dealing with parts build/etc is a lot easier post-purchase than 
dealing with a sub-optimal fit. There are loads of crappy 26" wheels/tires 
you can get for cheap that would work to check fit, but whether seller will 
let you put wheels into a pristine frameset may be an issue.

I still have issues with the overall value, but I'm not the one that wants 
it badly, so my issues don't matter much.

But I will say that for the same/similar money, you can get yourself a 
brandy-new handbuilt steel frameset in a size/configuration that will fit 
you fer sure. It won't be lugged, you'd have to be happy with a tig'd 
frame, and it may not ring similar bells and release as heavy an endorphin 
dose as a minty vintage Riv. But it may fit better, have better clearances, 
and might even ride better. I suspect there are a bunch of builders who 
could do this, but I don't have many in my mental Rolodex. I can start with 
Jeff Lyon, who's been building since the '70s, and has gotten very 
excellent feedback on his entry-level L'avecaise frames:

https://www.lyonsport.com/frames-0   [$1,100 for unfiled tig'd frame, $285 
for matching fork]

Paul Brodek
Hillsdale, NJ USA


On Thursday, January 27, 2022 at 2:45:13 PM UTC-5 Adrianna T wrote:

> Hi everyone,
>
> I went to see Joe B at the Marin Museum of Bicycling to see if I want the 
> Riv Road Standard bike frame.
>
> Details were somewhat unclear and as this group pointed out, it's hard to 
> tell size and fit when the bike is not built up.
>
> So further details are posted her (on my personal page):
>
> https://skinnylatte.notion.site/Riv-Bike-e56ddf417ee54e788e3a445eafc46f44
>
> Joe also called Grant and provided this update:
>
> " After talking with Grant, and trying a few more wheels, it appears the 
> frameset is for 26x1.4" wheels (MTB, 559 bead seat size). So tires would be 
> 35mm max, 32mm more like it. "Pre-1999 for sure," says Grant."
>
> My main question is: I previously thought this might be *just nice*, now I 
> am not so sure.
>
> Anyone see anything interesting about the new information here? I still 
> want it very badly of course, and that's maybe why I can't be objective 
> about it ;/
>

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[RBW] Re: For Sale: 65cm Specialized Sequoia frame, fork, seat post, and FSA head set

2022-01-18 Thread Paul Brodek
Whoever was tall enough and lucky enough to snag this for $100 might want 
to take the opportunity to learn how to install rivnuts. One affordable 
tool and a couple/few rivnuts will have you good to go, and you'll then 
also have the tools and knowledge to install threaded bosses 
anywhere/everywhere your heart desires.

They seriously are not all difficult to figure out and install.

Paul Brodek
Hillsdale, NJ USA

On Monday, January 17, 2022 at 9:13:02 PM UTC-5 weste...@gmail.com wrote:

> This frame is sold, pending payment. Thanks! 
>
> On Monday, January 17, 2022 at 6:23:16 PM UTC-6 jamin orrall wrote:
>
>> these are excellent riding bicycles. 
>>
>> On Monday, January 17, 2022 at 3:43:01 PM UTC-8 weste...@gmail.com wrote:
>>
>>> For Sale: 65cm Specialized Sequoia frame, fork, seat post, and FSA head 
>>> set . Blue. I believe it to be a 1983 model. 
>>>
>>> This would make a great poor man's Rivendell Rambouillet. I've owned 
>>> both and they feel like siblings to me. 
>>>
>>> This is a really nice Sequoia, with one semi-major caveat. It came from 
>>> specialized with two bottle mounts — one on the top of the down tube, the 
>>> other underneath the down tube. Someone prior to me in this bike’s life 
>>> drilled two holes in the seat tube for a third bottle, but they are not 
>>> quite straight, nor are they nut-serted or tapped. I put tape over the 
>>> holes and then put a Velo-Orange bottle mount in the proper spot (covers 
>>> the holes) — you can see it in the photos. 
>>>
>>> Overall I’d call the paint pretty good — there are a few scuffs and on 
>>> one fork leg and one seat stay the chrome is showing through a scrape. I am 
>>> including the seep-down cable end for the rear derailleur cable mount on 
>>> the chain stay. 
>>>
>>>
>>> This is a wonderful riding bike — I had one and sold it a few 
>>> years ago, missed it, so bought this one, and have recently acquired 
>>> another frame in the 68.5 cm size which fits me better. Due to the water 
>>> bottle mount issue I’m selling this at what I consider to be a bargain 
>>> price. 
>>>
>>> $100 plus actual cost shipping (I’ll pack it carefully at no cost) 
>>>  within the CONUS. 
>>>
>>> PayPal F&F preferred. 
>>>
>>> Photos at https://flic.kr/s/aHBqjzyZ82
>>>
>>> Julian Westerhout
>>> Bloomington, IL 
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>

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[RBW] Re: Question about the 1995 Waterford Road standard

2022-01-17 Thread Paul Brodek
Just some thoughts from an Old Guy who owned a '95ish Road Standard, 
currently has a '98 Road Custom and lotsa Waterfords.

It is kinda pricey. It is also one of those things that you won't find 
often/easily, there's often a Riv premium to be paid, and in this smaller 
frame size w/26" wheels you'll likely have better tire clearance than with 
a 700c Road Standard. But if you boil it down to a production frame from 
'95 build by W'ford, $1,450 is big number in my book. A clean/stock '95 
W'ford road frame might get $600-$700, a clean W'ford Riv might get 
$200-$300 more? The highest I've seen a Road Standard go for was around 
$1,200, pretty clean, sold by Jan Heine on ebay some years back, haven't 
seen anything else sell that high. I'd be happy to get $1,200 in 2020 for 
my '98 Riv Road Custom, built by Joe Starck. $1,450 is a pretty aggressive 
price.  

The frame looks lovely. It evidently is being sold by/for a good cause. 
It's a Riv. Vintage steel is cool/fun. It looks very clean. Likely has 
pretty good tire clearance? Rare fer sure. Lots of pluses. Just be comfy 
knowing you're not necessarily getting a bargain, and if you decided it 
didn't work well for you, I'm not sure you'd be able to get close to the 
same price reselling it.

Tips on your first vintage frameset is a big topic, and one that others 
here generally do that better than I do. I'll just hit a couple/few 
basics.  

My first question would be whether you want this to be a cool vintage bike 
without being concerned whether it will ride as well as your current bikes? 
Or would you want to be able to essentially ride it the same places/ways as 
what you ride now? Rivs have changed a lot in the past 35yrs+. If you're 
riding newish/current Rivs now with looong chainstays and wde tires, is 
the '15 Standard going to feel like the equivalent of hopping on a 700c 
bike with 28mm tires? Or do you want something that feels faster and maybe 
not as comfy?

In terms of knowing what you're potentially getting, you do want to try 
your best to make sure it'll fit you well, before buying. Also make sure 
you know how much real tire clearance you'll have, maybe especially 
important for someone coming from a current Riv, especially if it's a 
wide/long Riv.

Paul Brodek
Hillsdale, NJ USA
 
On Sunday, January 16, 2022 at 7:49:47 PM UTC-5 Adrianna T wrote:

> Hi folks,
>
> I saw this ad and I am very tempted: 
> https://sfbay.craigslist.org/nby/bik/d/fairfax-wow-beautiful-1995-rivendell/7429374409.html
>
> I'm going to see it next week to decide.
>
> 1. I am 5' 5 female, any ideas on whether this will fit me? 
>
> 2. This will be my first vintage bike, and I am so excited! Any other tips 
> or advice on this particular frame? 
>
> -Adrianna
>

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[RBW] Re: FS: VO crankset + BB, DT shifters, XTR derailleur

2021-12-30 Thread Paul Brodek
Just a hopefully helpful heads-up on the 7800 D-A calipers, I've found them 
to have some of the best under-caliper clearance for 47-49mm max dual-pivot 
calipers. Useful if, like me, you're forever trying to squeeze as fat a 
tire as possible under 49mm-max dual-pivots.

And that's also a killer price if the calipers are in nice condition.

Paul Brodek
Hillsdale, NJ USA

On Wednesday, December 29, 2021 at 12:33:30 PM UTC-5 alex g wrote:

> Funding the next bike 
> XTR rear derailleur 972 9 speed - $125
> Dura ace 7800 brakes - $65
> Velo Orange grand cru crankset 50.4 bcd 170mm, with sealed BB BSA 68mm - 
> $160
> Dura ace 9 speed down tube shifters (masking tape in picture just to keep 
> things together and not scratched) - $85
>
> I also have XTR 9 speed cassette & simplex front derailleur to make a near 
> complete group. 
>
> Prices are net to me, shipping is free if multiple items are purchased. 
>
> Alex in SE Wisconsin
>
>

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[RBW] Re: WTB - 700c SS Wheelset for Quickbeam

2021-12-05 Thread Paul Brodek
What are you looking for hub-wise?

Single-side/Fixed?
Single-side/FW?
Dual-side/FW-FW?
Dual-side/Fixed-Fixed?
Dual-side/Fixed-FW?

Color prefs on hubs/rims/spokes?

The nicest spare set I have on hand is an all-silver Grand Cru wheelset 
from a few years back. Kinda buried at the moment, as in "move 8+ pair of 
wheels to find the Grand Crus." Happy to look if you're interested, happy 
to leave 'em where they lay if you're wanting something a little nicer. 

Oh, and btw I'd be shipping from Jersey, in case that matters, and these 
days it often does.

Paul Brodek
Hillsdale, NJ USA

On Saturday, December 4, 2021 at 10:12:04 PM UTC-5 Sean Steinle wrote:

> Starting the search for a nice wheelset for my quickbeam. 700c, 120mm rear 
> spacing. This is my only bike so I'd like to do it up right, maybe some 
> Phil hubs. I'm a lightweight rider, only 130 lbs, so don't want anything 
> too overkill on spoke count, probably 32h.
>
> Thanks!
> Sean
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: FS: Rambouillet frameset 64cm c-t

2021-11-22 Thread Paul Brodek
Hi Kevin, I didn't notice your sneakiness, since I'm sworn to feel
reduction. Trying real hard not to tempt myself. I also didn't realize you
posted this in RBW, I kinda cruise all 3-4 riv-ish forums and sometimes
lose track of what I'm looking at.

But yeah, I'd post that on ibob fer sure. Might not hurt to try on Classic
Rendezvous, and bikeforums/classic&vintage as well. Sequoia are thin on the
ground, and there are lotsa folks looking for that magic 30-32mm+ ride.

Good luck!

Paul B.

On Mon, Nov 22, 2021 at 2:19 PM kevin Dickerson 
wrote:

> Thanks Paul,
>
> I did sneak a couple pics of the Sequoia into that pics folder and will
> try to add more.  But since it’s not a Riv I probably follow the rules and
> post to I-Bob.  Appreciate the support and suggestion,
>
>
>
>
>
> *From: *Paul Brodek 
> *Sent: *Monday, November 22, 2021 7:51 AM
> *To: *RBW Owners Bunch 
> *Subject: *[RBW] Re: FS: Rambouillet frameset 64cm c-t
>
>
>
> Beautiful frameset, congrats to the new owner. Definitely a keeper if she
> fits, etc.
>
>
>
> None of my beeswax, since I'm sworn to fleet reduction for the forseeable
> future, but if I were Kevin and were serious about also wanting to sell my
> '83 Sequoia, I'd snap some pix and make that sucker visible. Time for a
> double-header?
>
>
>
> Paul Brodek
>
> Hillsdale, NJ USA
>
>
>
> On Sunday, November 21, 2021 at 2:11:26 PM UTC-5 Kevin D norcal - santa
> rosa wrote:
>
> update: this frame has a new owner - and heading off to the East Coast.
> Long live the Rambouillet!
>
> thanks to all comments and inquiries, happy trails,
>
>
>
> On Saturday, November 20, 2021 at 6:06:16 AM UTC-8 Matt Beecher wrote:
>
> Beautiful. I'm fairly surprised that this is still available.  If only
> this were a 58, I'd be gearing it up for Spring with fenders, lights, etc.
>
>
>
> To the OP:  Good luck with the sale.
>
> To the next owner:  You better pounce on it soon.
>
>
>
> Best regards,
>
> Matt in Oswego, IL
>
> no relation to seller
>
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Paul Brodek
Hillsdale, NJ USA

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[RBW] Re: FS: Rambouillet frameset 64cm c-t

2021-11-22 Thread Paul Brodek
Beautiful frameset, congrats to the new owner. Definitely a keeper if she 
fits, etc.

None of my beeswax, since I'm sworn to fleet reduction for the forseeable 
future, but if I were Kevin and were serious about also wanting to sell my 
'83 Sequoia, I'd snap some pix and make that sucker visible. Time for a 
double-header?

Paul Brodek
Hillsdale, NJ USA

On Sunday, November 21, 2021 at 2:11:26 PM UTC-5 Kevin D norcal - santa 
rosa wrote:

> update: this frame has a new owner - and heading off to the East Coast.  
> Long live the Rambouillet!
> thanks to all comments and inquiries, happy trails, 
>
> On Saturday, November 20, 2021 at 6:06:16 AM UTC-8 Matt Beecher wrote:
>
>> Beautiful. I'm fairly surprised that this is still available.  If only 
>> this were a 58, I'd be gearing it up for Spring with fenders, lights, etc.  
>>
>> To the OP:  Good luck with the sale.  
>> To the next owner:  You better pounce on it soon.  
>>
>> Best regards,
>> Matt in Oswego, IL
>> no relation to seller
>>
>>

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Re: [RBW] Re: OT but at least as good as Dylan: help finding best source for some digital music

2021-11-14 Thread Paul Brodek
1. "Somebody" needs a turntable. I'm sure ibob can hook you up.
2. My oldest son was what we still evidently call colicky. There were only 
3 surefire routes to a subtle rocking sleep:
a. Missippi John Hurt, "Best Of" (Oberlin College, '65): He could not last 
beyond Here I Am, Lord Send Me/I Shall Not Be Moved/Nearer My God To Thee. 
Winner, winner, chicken dinner.
b. Keith Jarrett+, Standards Vol I: God Bless The Child was the magic 
cut---but this was only available in Laser Disc for years, so cuing that 
all up etc was quite the production.
c. Me singing "Cockles and Mussels," in the worst fake Irish accent 
possible; don't know where that came from, maybe from mom's rural Tenn 
childhood? Though I never heard her sing it. Definitely not with my mostly 
German dad. All I took away from that was the childhood horrors of 
Struwwelpeter. Cockles & Mussels took 3 or 4 cycles/renditions for sleep to 
arrive, but I could sing it without having to power up a musical 
reproduction device. 
3. I've had some recent insomnia, and there's been some MJH, 
Garcia/Grisman, also Coltrane/Coleman/Miles/Monk, and lots of Leonard 
Cohen. I find the musical content taking precedence over the reproduction 
quality, so low-volume smartphone playback substitutes nicely in place of 
Patrick's wayback speaker sandwich; also bone induction headphones are 
comfy to fall asleep to. Oh, and BTW to Patrick, there's something to be 
said for lumping a whole bunch of digitized files together and being able 
to hit Play and get 100 cuts of whatever floats yer boat to unspool into 
your brain. 

If there's an off-ramp back to On-Topic Land, youngest son is now 28, 
wondering where his childhood went, and I'm busy scheming ways to get him 
to take away 2-3 of my bikes as "his," convenient because both boys and me 
fit the same size bikes. I'm sure he wouldn't mind me borrowing one of 
"his" bikes if I drop in...

Paul Brodek
Hillsdale, NJ USA

On Saturday, November 13, 2021 at 3:01:55 PM UTC-5 Patrick Moore wrote:

> Yah! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W91XCNix2tg
>
> Jerry Garcia and compadre channeling Mississippi John Hurt (an orig vers 
> here: https://youtu.be/vPuj2dUeyJ4) but doing it better. And Whiskey in 
> the Jar, etc.
>
> Seriously, I've been listening to Bob since 1969, so I'm not deprecating 
> his very obvious genious. (I also had a small MJH collection, not to 
> mention the obvious Muddy Waters, BB King, etc etc etc.)
>
> Funny anecdote; at least, funny to me: one of my favorite albums circa 
> 1969 was Dylan's Blonde on Blonde -- I still think it's one of his best. I 
> recall teenage insomnia, when I would leave my bed, go to the "parlour," 
> the sitting room for our children's part of the house, where my father had 
> installed his castoff Phillips stereo when he upgraded. I'd take the 
> speakers off the wall where they were hanging, set up a pallent on my floor 
> and sit the speakers one by each ear, and listen to my faves. My parents 
> were in the new part of the house, about a half-mile away, and the 2 of my 
> 3 siblings who slept in the old part slept soundly.
>
> Anyway, 52 years later, my daughter's boyfriend, a musician, very sweetly 
> presented me with that same Blonde on Blonde album; only now, I have 
> nothing to play it on. I'll use it as wall art.
>
> On Thu, Nov 11, 2021 at 6:12 PM John A. Bennett  wrote:
>
>> At least as good as Dylan? Wht? Call me confused! 
>>
>>
>> https://faroutmagazine.co.uk/static/uploads/2020/03/Watch-Bob-Dylans-iconic-San-Francisco-press-conference-1965-768x586.jpg
>>
>> John in Portland, Ore.
>>
>> On Sunday, November 7, 2021 at 4:32:24 PM UTC-8 Patrick Moore wrote:
>>
>>> I grew up with vinyl LPs and transitioned to cassettes (magnetic tape, 
>>> not HG) and CDs easily enough, but navigating MP3 or whateverthehell 
>>> current formats are is something I find confusing.
>>>
>>> I'd like to get, in particular, these 2 albums: Jerry Garcia and David 
>>> Grisman, "Shady Grove," and (ditto), The Pizza Tapes. 
>>>
>>> Is there any *secure and reliable source* from which to pay online by 
>>> PP or CC and download the whole albums to one's computer?
>>>
>>> Not long ago I bought the Complete Works of JS Bach on 142 or so CDs, 
>>> and have had to beg and pay people to convert them to files I can store on 
>>> my computer and on a separate hard drive. 
>>>
>>> In anticipated appreciation of all y'alls help, I append this, which 
>>> sufficiently proves the reasonableness of my desire.
>>>
>>> Not

[RBW] Re: OT but at least as good as Dylan: help finding best source for some digital music

2021-11-08 Thread Paul Brodek
I may be missing something here, but if your computer is old/weird enough 
to still have an onboard CD/DVD drive you can rip your own digital files 
from your own CDs for zero cost. If you don't have an onboard drive, 
$15-$35 or so will buy you a separate/portable one. No need to beg/pay 
folks to do it for you?

Ripping your own files lets you choose the quality/sizing you want. I'll 
often do a reasonably med-/high-quality mp3, and add a flac version as well 
if I want the good stuff. 

It's not a panacea, there are times the disc won't offer up file details, 
especially apparently with imported discs, and you can get further caught 
up in "Which ripper software should I use?" rabbit holes. But it's an easy 
process, e-z to do while I'm otherwise already on my computer perusing 
ibob/etc, yadda yadda yadda. 

If you're looking for digital files from discs you don't have on hand, then 
you have the option/decision whether to just buy the files, or buy the CD 
and rip it yourself. These days I'm more often buying files i/o discs for 
music I don't own, since I don't often play the discs after I've ripped 
them.  

BTW, if you're looking for Garcia/Grisman, be aware that there is now a 
3-disc Complete Pizza Tapes release. It's got all the 
outtakes/partials/chatter/fragments, worth it if you're that nerdy. It's 
the one-disc Lefty Frizell fragment times 25 or so. I bought the files for 
this one because I didn't feel like I needed the discs. 

Weird aside, when I spent a lot of time running between Japan-US I jumped 
into the MiniDisc format, since it was the smallest physical format 
available. I found myself in Chicago, waiting to board a flight, and who 
did I see also waiting for the same flight but "Dawg" Grisman himself. I 
spotted him, realized I was listening to Shady Grove on my MiniDisc at the 
time, and wondered how I could acknowledge my regard for his music, and 
also get an autograph or something, without unduly disturbing him and 
coming off like a jackass. I ejected my disc and wondered whether I had a 
pen, only to realize there was absolutely no physical space on the disc for 
any possible signage. I popped it back in, shrugged, and decided to just 
listen/enjoy and leave him be. But we coulda been best friends, I do know 
that in my heart of hearts...

Paul "Jackass" Brodek
Hillsdale, NJ USA  
On Sunday, November 7, 2021 at 7:32:24 PM UTC-5 Patrick Moore wrote:

> I grew up with vinyl LPs and transitioned to cassettes (magnetic tape, not 
> HG) and CDs easily enough, but navigating MP3 or whateverthehell current 
> formats are is something I find confusing.
>
> I'd like to get, in particular, these 2 albums: Jerry Garcia and David 
> Grisman, "Shady Grove," and (ditto), The Pizza Tapes. 
>
> Is there any *secure and reliable source* from which to pay online by PP 
> or CC and download the whole albums to one's computer?
>
> Not long ago I bought the Complete Works of JS Bach on 142 or so CDs, and 
> have had to beg and pay people to convert them to files I can store on my 
> computer and on a separate hard drive. 
>
> In anticipated appreciation of all y'alls help, I append this, which 
> sufficiently proves the reasonableness of my desire.
>
> Note: This track is pure "just ride" music.
>
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W91XCNix2tg
>
> Thanks.
>
> -- 
>
> ---
> Patrick Moore
> Alburquerque, Nuevo Mexico, Etats Unis d'Amerique, Orbis Terrarum
>
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: 26.8mm seat post diameter??

2021-10-20 Thread Paul Brodek
I've resorted to carbon paste on a couple of frames, and it definitely 
solves the slippage problem for me. It also, however, scratches the heck 
out of the inserted section of the seatposts IME.

I have one seatpost that's been rolled/machined, which also solved the 
slippage problem. Can't remember where I got it, though, so I don't know 
for sure who did the work. However, the cross-hatch looks similar to the 
pattern produced by the wonderful Stein tool, which ain't cheap but looks 
very groovy (that was an unintentional joke, btw):
https://steintool.com/portfolio-items/knurling-tool/

Paul Brodek
Hillsdale, NJ USA



On Tuesday, October 19, 2021 at 2:02:09 PM UTC-4 kwi...@weimar.edu wrote:

> I decided to replace the 26.8 seat post that came with my Roadini; I 
> discovered that 'Promax' makes a nice and light and high quality seatpost 
> in 26.8 (it is 'SP-1' model and it comes in Red, Blue, Gold and Black (no 
> silver).  It has served very nicely.  I also had trouble with both of my 
> 26.8 seat posts slipping down over time with the Roadini frame.  I ended up 
> using some carbon paste to solve that problem.  You can also have a 
> machinist or frame builder put a nice grid pattern into the surface of the 
> seatpost to keep it in place (Chris Kelly in Nevada City, Ca. has done that 
> for me with other frames).  At any rate, the Promax seat post is the one to 
> get in my opinion, and although it is kind of long, it only weighs about 9 
> ounces (and, of course, it can easily be cut down).
> Cheers,
> Karl
> Weimar, CA.  
>
> On Tue, Oct 19, 2021 at 10:37 AM lconley  wrote:
>
>> Probably voided the warranty, but the Bombadil would have been useless to 
>> me without the setback seatpost, I have a very long torso. It was on sale 
>> for $1800 brand new (normally $3000 back then) from Rivendell and was the 
>> correct 52cm for my legs, so I was going to make it work. Rivendell 
>> recommended a Hunqapillar for a touring bike for me, but Bombadil on sale 
>> was less expensive. i really didn't have to hone that much, the seatpost is 
>> a little less than 27.2 and the bike was a little more than 27.0, so the 
>> tube thickness removed was less than 1.0 mm.
>>
>> Laing
>>
>> On Tuesday, October 19, 2021 at 12:24:06 PM UTC-4 Hugh Smitham wrote:
>>
>>> I agree the lugs used (no matter the design) accept the same OS diameter 
>>> tubing but Rivendell went with thicker walled tubing. The question is why? 
>>> To me Grant not wanting to ream out the seat tube could effectively be 
>>> solved by choosing a thinner walled tubing. I think it's a structural 
>>> decision as I mentioned before. Laing, I wonder if by reaming out the 
>>> inside of the seat tube you are voiding the warranty? Probably NBD unless 
>>> you ride like Manny and need all the extra gussets and tube wall thickness. 
>>>
>>> David, basically my issue boils down to lack of availability which 
>>> obviously has been exacerbated by the pandemics supply chain disruption. 
>>> Yet still if I want a 27.2 post NBD.
>>>
>>> Eric and Laing, I agree with a lugged post in 26.8mm please!
>>>  
>>> ~Hugh
>>>
>>> “Life is like riding a bicycle. To keep your balance, you must keep 
>>> moving.” ― Albert Einstein
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> On Tue, Oct 19, 2021 at 8:45 AM Toshi Takeuchi  wrote:
>>>
>>>> Laing, your point is exactly my point.  If you use the same lugs you do 
>>>> not change the OD otherwise the lugs would not work.  If you want to use 
>>>> the same lugs and want a thicker tube, then it must get thicker on the 
>>>> inside, so the inner diameter must decrease with a thicker tube.  That's 
>>>> my 
>>>> understanding of why the seat post is now smaller in diameter.
>>>>
>>>> Toshi
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> On Tue, Oct 19, 2021 at 7:54 AM lconley  wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> Lugs attach to the OD of the tube and have nothing to do with the ID 
>>>>> of the tube. My second Sam Hillborne, in orange metalflake,  had the same 
>>>>> lugs as my 1st, but used the 26.8 seatpost.
>>>>> Gotta go - the UPS guy is at the door with my Crust Clydesdale fork. I 
>>>>> am going to call this latest creation Conley's Crustendell Clementine 
>>>>> Clydesdale Cargo Cycle (but sadly awaiting the Cliffhanger rims till 
>>>>> December). I love a good alliteration. The black fork even matches the 
>>>&g

[RBW] Re: 26.8mm seat post diameter??

2021-10-20 Thread Paul Brodek
IME back in the day 27.2mm was more common on higher-end frames than 
26.8mm, while 26.8mm was more common on mid-level frames. And 26.8mm was 
rarely seen on top-level frames. But my back in the day selling new bikes 
started in 1980, with pre-1980 experience being most repair/service. Maybe 
Saturday Mark goes back further.

Paul Brodek
Hillsdale, NJ USA

On Tuesday, October 19, 2021 at 1:28:12 PM UTC-4 Saturday Mark wrote:

> 26.8 was just as common as 27.2 back in the 70's and 80's, prior to the 
> now more . Riv has done 26.8 on a bunch of the step throughs since way back 
> when. 
>
> With that said, 26.8 is probably in short supply right now due to 
> pandemic, but...
>
> Nitto makes in crystal fellow and s83
> Thomson makes 26.8
> Kalloy Uno as well as their Crystal Fellow copy
> + a bunch of private label (Dimension, Sunlite, Origin8... etc) 
>
> On Monday, October 18, 2021 at 8:01:38 PM UTC-6 Hugh Smitham wrote:
>
>> Maybe someone can answer this, why in the heck did Rivendell start making 
>> the seat tube inside diameter 26.8mm on the new bikes? I believe hearing 
>> something about seat tube wall thickness. Don't get me wrong, I think the 
>> new Geos make for a better ride, but it's way easier to find posts in 
>> 27.2mm all day long. 
>>
>> Rivendell has the Nitto S83 in that diameter but it's a whopping 300 mm 
>> length 50 mm more than I need and also a whopping $128 before tax and 
>> shipping.
>>
>> Rant over n out.
>>
>> Hugh n LA
>>
>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: FS: NIB Park TS-2 Professional Wheel Truing Stand (chrome) plus WAG-3 dishing tool

2021-10-13 Thread Paul Brodek
Step right up! Step right up! Step right up, ladies and germs

If you haven't been using a truing stand, or have been using a so-so stand, 
and/or have been hankering in any kind of way for a _good_ stand, this is 
it.

'nuff said.

Paul Brodek
Hillsdale, NJ USA

On Wednesday, October 13, 2021 at 6:01:47 PM UTC-4 Rich Lesnik wrote:

> I'm posting this for a friend. Asking $150 for both, plus $30 shipping. 
>

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[RBW] Soma Fab 15% Off Everything Ends Today

2021-10-11 Thread Paul Brodek
 Meant to forward this info when it first hit, but forgot. No affilliation.

Soma's got 15% off everything in-store, ends today.

http://secure.campaigner.com/csb/Public/show/4rbx-2gdgh4--wkx7s-1r2oa6i8

"Sale Ends 10/11/21 Must use Promo Code "siskiyou15" for discount."  

I was waiting/hoping for one of these before buying a new Champs d'etc 
fork, but that horse left the barn back in June/July.

Just a reminder to shop responsibly... 

Paul Brodek
Hillsdale, NJ USA

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[RBW] Re: WTB Low-Rider Panniers + tubus rack

2021-10-04 Thread Paul Brodek
Awesome sauce! My NOS Jandds came through without hooks, which I got from 
Ben's, which I haven't installed yet. Theoretically I'm all set, too.

PB

On Monday, October 4, 2021 at 10:45:17 AM UTC-4 Andrew Turner wrote:

> Found a used REI set on the 'Bay for $45. I should be all set! 
>
> On Monday, October 4, 2021 at 9:31:44 AM UTC-5 Paul Brodek wrote:
>
>> Don't know how fancy/modern/pretty you want to get with the panniers, or 
>> what your mounting options/requirements are, but I went to ebay and found 
>> some decent possibilities at reasonable prices. I wound up scoring a set 
>> here on the forums, though.
>>
>> Paul Brodek
>> Hillsdale, NJ USA
>>
>> On Monday, October 4, 2021 at 9:25:51 AM UTC-4 Andrew Turner wrote:
>>
>>> Tubus Duo rack pending sale!⚡  
>>>
>>> Still on the hunt for a pair of small, individual panniers that'll be 
>>> compatible. 
>>>
>>> Cheers, 
>>> Andrew
>>> On Sunday, October 3, 2021 at 7:11:09 PM UTC-5 Andrew Turner wrote:
>>>
>>>> Hey folks! I'm looking for a couple things: 
>>>> 1) a low-rider rack like the Tubus 'Duo' or 'Tara' low rider. I'm open 
>>>> to others but I love how minimal these ones are. 
>>>> 2) small panniers (a set) to work with said rack. 
>>>>
>>>> Trying to squeeze one more overnighter before the temps drop for good 
>>>> this year but I'm also not looking to drop too much cheddar; the more used 
>>>> the better. Thanks for reading:) 
>>>>
>>>> - Andrew
>>>>
>>>

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[RBW] Re: WTB Low-Rider Panniers + tubus rack

2021-10-04 Thread Paul Brodek
Don't know how fancy/modern/pretty you want to get with the panniers, or 
what your mounting options/requirements are, but I went to ebay and found 
some decent possibilities at reasonable prices. I wound up scoring a set 
here on the forums, though.

Paul Brodek
Hillsdale, NJ USA

On Monday, October 4, 2021 at 9:25:51 AM UTC-4 Andrew Turner wrote:

> Tubus Duo rack pending sale!⚡  
>
> Still on the hunt for a pair of small, individual panniers that'll be 
> compatible. 
>
> Cheers, 
> Andrew
> On Sunday, October 3, 2021 at 7:11:09 PM UTC-5 Andrew Turner wrote:
>
>> Hey folks! I'm looking for a couple things: 
>> 1) a low-rider rack like the Tubus 'Duo' or 'Tara' low rider. I'm open to 
>> others but I love how minimal these ones are. 
>> 2) small panniers (a set) to work with said rack. 
>>
>> Trying to squeeze one more overnighter before the temps drop for good 
>> this year but I'm also not looking to drop too much cheddar; the more used 
>> the better. Thanks for reading:) 
>>
>> - Andrew
>>
>

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Re: [RBW] Mid-80 steel frames that could be Roadini standins

2021-10-04 Thread Paul Brodek
"Old is Good"
http://bikeretrogrouch.blogspot.com/2014/01/classic-tubes-columbus.html

Paul Brodek
Hillsdale, NJ USA

On Mon, Oct 4, 2021 at 9:52 AM Benjamin Park 
wrote:

> Kurt, can you educate me as to the "rifling" in the steerer tube- what is
> it, and is this characteristic of Columbus tubing? Also, what is "SP"?
>
> On Friday, October 1, 2021 at 10:33:12 PM UTC-4 Kurt Henry wrote:
>
>> I'm very late to the game, as I can't seem to reply from my phone in the
>> current version of google groups.  I had to drag out my laptop.
>>
>> I've attached a lousy picture of my Bottecchia from shortly before I
>> finished putting it together.  I bought it as a frame and fork from Dale
>> over on CR.  He thought it was a Giro d'Italia or Professional, though
>> possibly a different year than the catalog.  I can feel the rifling in the
>> steerer so will buy the Columbus tubing.  But it's a taller frame (for me)
>> at 60cm ctt and uses a 27.0 seatpost, so presumably some SP mixed in.  It's
>> a great ride, and an answer to a question I posed to the list a few years
>> ago about the rarity of Columbus tubed bikes with clearance for sizable
>> tires plus eyelets for fenders.  Yes, they exist!  I have Challenge Strada
>> Biancas (700X30) on it with plenty of room. I don't ride it that much,
>> though, as it's just a smidge big for me.  If someone runs across a way to
>> shrink frames, please feel free to call me.
>>
>> Kurt Henry
>> Lancaster, PA
>>
>>
>>
>> On Monday, September 20, 2021 at 1:53:59 PM UTC-4 Patrick Moore wrote:
>>
>>> Oh! Please post photos of your Bottechia.
>>>
>>> On Mon, Sep 20, 2021 at 11:52 AM Patrick Moore 
>>> wrote:
>>>
>>>> Come to think of it, I temporarily resolved the too-small frame with a
>>>> custom Salsa upjutter quill stem. Wonder where that stem went.
>>>>
>>>> On Mon, Sep 20, 2021 at 11:51 AM Patrick Moore 
>>>> wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> A Bottechia Fellow Traveller! Yes, now that you mention it, my 1966
>>>>> felt smooth, and I daresay this was a result of (1) the standard-gauge
>>>>> tubing, (2) non-excessively-thick tube walls, and (3) the relatively
>>>>> (relative to post-1980s-crit-geom frames) lax and loose geometry. I road
>>>>> it, IIRC, with Ritchey 700C X 28 or 30 tires, nothing special, and still,
>>>>> it felt smooth.
>>>>>
>>>>> Model-non-specific Columbus tubing, and I forget what the rear OL was,
>>>>> but I built mine as a ss fixed, so the OL could have been anything from 
>>>>> 116
>>>>> to 120.
>>>>>
>>>>> I build mine with the original moustache bar and used it as a beater
>>>>> commuter, albeit as a very *nice* beater commuter.
>>>>>
>>>>> But alas! it was a size or so too small -- 56 c-c st and tt, where I
>>>>> should have a 60X56 c-c, so I sold it on.
>>>>>
>>>>> On Mon, Sep 20, 2021 at 11:39 AM Benjamin Park 
>>>>> wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>> I have that same Bottecchia (albeit I think mine is a bit newer,
>>>>>> probably 1972). I ride it all the time- it makes a great road bike!
>>>>>> Columbus tubing is so smooth. I put a front rack and it's my little rando
>>>>>> bike. Actually does ok with the weight of a front bag.  I have some RH 
>>>>>> 32s
>>>>>> on it but agree it could take 35s.  116mm rear spacing is a bummer 
>>>>>> though!
>>>>>>
>>>>>> On Thursday, September 16, 2021 at 3:08:48 PM UTC-4 Patrick Moore
>>>>>> wrote:
>>>>>>
>>>>>>> If you want road bike fit and handling with big tire clearance, look
>>>>>>> for some of the old road racing frames from the 1970s and even 1960s, if
>>>>>>> you can find any. My former 1973 Motobecane Grand Record was very light
>>>>>>> (much lighter tubing than Rivendells, except perhaps the Roadeo and the
>>>>>>> Legolas; all 531) yet had clearance for 35s at least without fenders. 
>>>>>>> Ditto
>>>>>>> for the 1966 Bottechia Campione del Mondo that I owned earlier: easily 
>>>>>>> room
>>>>>>> for 35s at least and probably 37s. There's one on Ebay now; see attached
>>>>>>> p

Re: [RBW] Re: Clicking MKS bear trap pedal

2021-09-29 Thread Paul Brodek
...could also be the crank, and/or crank/bb interface.

Told ya it could be spooky/fun!

Paul Brodek
Hillsdale, NJ USA

On Wed, Sep 29, 2021 at 7:11 PM Eric Marth  wrote:

> Well, people. I swapped the pedals for a spare set of Lambda Grip Kings
> and I had the same click. Right pedal, dull click at three o'clock. More
> noticeable at lower speeds, seems to disappear if I'm pedaling real hard.
>
> On Wednesday, September 29, 2021 at 3:09:37 PM UTC-4 E. Ricky Creek wrote:
>
>> This is bad/lazy advice, but when my MKS touring pedals start clicking
>> (these are the only pedals I use), I take the dust cap off and and just jam
>> a bunch of grease in there. It always makes the click go away. I eventually
>> overhaul them correctly, but who wants to do that instead of riding.
>> Also, in my experience it is pretty easy to tell if it is the pedals just
>> from riding.
>>   Again, this is only my experience with these specific MKS pedals.
>>
>>
>>
>> On Wednesday, September 29, 2021 at 11:46:54 AM UTC-5 cycli...@gmail.com
>> wrote:
>>
>>> I think the endcap is removable and the bearings are simple cup & cone
>>> with loose ball bearings that should be servicable.  Either 1/8" or 5/32"
>>> balls.
>>>
>>>
>>> On Wednesday, September 29, 2021 at 7:44:10 AM UTC-7 eric...@gmail.com
>>> wrote:
>>>
>>>> Thanks Paul, can you recommend a good quality can-o-worms opener?
>>>> Preferably made in USA?
>>>>
>>>> On Wednesday, September 29, 2021 at 8:32:43 AM UTC-4 Paul Brodek wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> TL; DR: First swap the pedal to make sure the issue is the pedal. If
>>>>> the clicking goes away, then you know it's the pedal. If not, you need a
>>>>> deep dive into other possibilities.
>>>>>
>>>>> If it is the pedal, make sure the pedal threads are greased or have
>>>>> anti-seize, install a pedal washer if you don't have one installed
>>>>> currently, and check again.
>>>>>
>>>>> Next check the spindle/bearing adjustment for any play. If there's
>>>>> play, adjust it out. If the spindle isn't adjustable, you're SOL on that
>>>>> count.
>>>>>
>>>>> If the pedal cages are bolted on, drip some Tri-Flow/similar at the
>>>>> bolt/cage interface and cage/body interface and carefully make sure the
>>>>> bolts are tight. You want to use a good wrench and care since the bolt 
>>>>> head
>>>>> is probably small and shallow.
>>>>>
>>>>> If the cages aren't bolted on, drip some Tri-Flow/similar into the
>>>>> space between cages and pedal body.
>>>>>
>>>>> I don't know if you can just pound on the peened cage/body
>>>>> interface---I mean nothing's stopping you from doing that,  just not sure
>>>>> if it'd be effective, and it could cause damage and ugliness.
>>>>>
>>>>> That's about all that comes to my scattered mind at the moment.
>>>>>
>>>>> And just so it's said
>>>>>
>>>>> Clicking Pedal Syndrome can bring you down some dark and scary places.
>>>>>
>>>>> Joking aside, what seems like a pedal click can come from many other
>>>>> places on the bike, and may have zero relation to what you're
>>>>> hearing/feeling from your recent pedal installation. Plenty of stories 
>>>>> here
>>>>> if you do a search. Folks have found "pedal clicks" to be seatposts,
>>>>> saddles, stems and/or handlebars. You swear you can feel it in the pedals,
>>>>> but the offending tick is somewhere else entirely. And much time and agony
>>>>> can be experienced running it down.
>>>>>
>>>>> Good luck!
>>>>>
>>>>> Paul Brodek
>>>>> Hillsdale, NJ USA
>>>>>
>>>>> On Wednesday, September 29, 2021 at 7:36:30 AM UTC-4 eric...@gmail.com
>>>>> wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>> I just installed a pair of MKS bear trap pedals and have put about
>>>>>> 150 miles on them. The right pedal just started clicking. I can feel a 
>>>>>> dull
>>>>>> click when the pedal gets to the three o'clock position.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Any ideas for remedies?
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Thanks!
>>>>>>
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[RBW] Re: Clicking MKS bear trap pedal

2021-09-29 Thread Paul Brodek
TL; DR: First swap the pedal to make sure the issue is the pedal. If the 
clicking goes away, then you know it's the pedal. If not, you need a deep 
dive into other possibilities. 

If it is the pedal, make sure the pedal threads are greased or have 
anti-seize, install a pedal washer if you don't have one installed 
currently, and check again. 

Next check the spindle/bearing adjustment for any play. If there's play, 
adjust it out. If the spindle isn't adjustable, you're SOL on that count.

If the pedal cages are bolted on, drip some Tri-Flow/similar at the 
bolt/cage interface and cage/body interface and carefully make sure the 
bolts are tight. You want to use a good wrench and care since the bolt head 
is probably small and shallow. 

If the cages aren't bolted on, drip some Tri-Flow/similar into the space 
between cages and pedal body. 

I don't know if you can just pound on the peened cage/body interface---I 
mean nothing's stopping you from doing that,  just not sure if it'd be 
effective, and it could cause damage and ugliness. 

That's about all that comes to my scattered mind at the moment.

And just so it's said

Clicking Pedal Syndrome can bring you down some dark and scary places.

Joking aside, what seems like a pedal click can come from many other places 
on the bike, and may have zero relation to what you're hearing/feeling from 
your recent pedal installation. Plenty of stories here if you do a search. 
Folks have found "pedal clicks" to be seatposts, saddles, stems and/or 
handlebars. You swear you can feel it in the pedals, but the offending tick 
is somewhere else entirely. And much time and agony can be experienced 
running it down.

Good luck!

Paul Brodek
Hillsdale, NJ USA

On Wednesday, September 29, 2021 at 7:36:30 AM UTC-4 eric...@gmail.com 
wrote:

> I just installed a pair of MKS bear trap pedals and have put about 150 
> miles on them. The right pedal just started clicking. I can feel a dull 
> click when the pedal gets to the three o'clock position. 
>
> Any ideas for remedies? 
>
> Thanks! 
>

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Re: [RBW] Share More Riv Riding Pics

2021-09-25 Thread Paul Brodek
Forgot to mention the cassette spec is 10spd 11-30t, so 11/40 high and 
30/24 low. High enough for me, plenty low for a mostly unloaded sled.

22.3lbs as is, with several spec subs that would get it into the 21lb+ 
range. Could go more modern and down in the 20s, but I like the older 
school look.

And yeah, better to say "...clearance for 30mm tires..." since 32s are 
getting dicey.

I had issues posting the photos, gotta click to view 'em, will see if 
cutting the [img] tags fixes that...

Paul Brodek
Hillsdale, NJ USA

On Friday, September 24, 2021 at 6:06:25 PM UTC-4 Paul Brodek wrote:

> Old School time, a day late for Throwback Thursday, if that's still a 
> thing.
>
> '98 Riv Custom, built by Joe Starck, back in the day when 
> designing/building a short-reach caliper frame with rock-bottom brake shoes 
> ("Look out, Courageous, it's Rock Bottom!!!") and clearance for 32mm 700c 
> tires was a big f'in deal...
>
[snip] 

>
> https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51218631413_cc5a80d181_k.jpg 
> <https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51218631413_cc5a80d181_k.jpg%5B/img%5D>
>
> https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51217707602_31d1bfcc06_k.jpg 
> <https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51217707602_31d1bfcc06_k.jpg%5B/img%5D>
>
> https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50365316941_c7a4475dda_k.jpg 
> <https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50365316941_c7a4475dda_k.jpg%5B/img%5D>
>
> https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50440286627_b8fb4c3792_k.jpg 
> <https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50440286627_b8fb4c3792_k.jpg%5B/img%5D>
>
> https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50440286327_bd34374447_k.jpg 
> <https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50440286327_bd34374447_k.jpg%5B/img%5D>
>
>
>

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Re: [RBW] Share More Riv Riding Pics

2021-09-24 Thread Paul Brodek
Old School time, a day late for Throwback Thursday, if that's still a thing.

'98 Riv Custom, built by Joe Starck, back in the day when 
designing/building a short-reach caliper frame with rock-bottom brake shoes 
("Look out, Courageous, it's Rock Bottom!!!") and clearance for 32mm 700c 
tires was a big f'in deal.  If I got this part right, the lugs were 
designed by e-richie for Grant/Bridgestone, were nixed by B'stone Japan 
because they were too complex/expensive, then Grant was able to use them 
after going indy. The seatpost caps look like they're from Waterford, maybe 
a carry-over from early on when Gary Boulanger was managing the W'ford side 
of Riv production frames? I've got them on a couple/few later W'fords, and 
don't recall seeing them anywhere else.   

I think I'm only the 3rd owner, unsure of the mileage, but clearly the two 
previous owners have treated it nicely. I criminally barely put any miles 
on it, but I did recently crash up on it and cause a bunch of organic 
physical body damage, but nothing but small qr-end/pedal-end/bar-end scuffs 
on the bike itself. It's lived a charmed life.

Was trying for a relatively period-correct build, with as much shiny silver 
Dura-Ace as possible, and somehow the med/long-cage D-A rder had to make 
that cut. Which made my preferred 1x build impractical, so I messed around 
with 1x-granny setups till I got this 40x24. Would'vd preferred a 38t, but 
couldn't go lower than 40t on the outer ring, because of chainstay 
clearance. Even with a short-cage CX-70, a 38/39t ring scrapes the top of 
the chainstay before the teeth get close enough to the rings. I tried at 
least one of the mega-short-but-clunky modern Shimano ATB fders, but that 
was sub-optimal. I think that was a midnight oil-burning operation, so I 
can't remember exactly why I gave up, just remember a loud "Feh!" and 
yanking it off. I decided to use a protective chain-drop thingie just to 
make sure I didn't have any drop-off problems hitting the 24t granny. 
Ferget who made it, it was a one-man small Sumguy operation, but they've 
been in production since the '80s, and discontinued for a while now.

The 700c Soma SV SLs on skinny Aerohead rims are about 30mm actual width, 
and already a bit tight. Could probably go a full 32mm but with very tight 
front/rear caliper clearance. Short-reach centerpulls, like GC450s might 
help a bit there, but I wanted to stay D-A on the calipers and avoid the 
extra cabling/etc of centerpulls.

The RD-7701 med-long rder came to me with a stripped cable anchor bolt, and 
the stupid-shallow backside clearance made it pretty impossible to helicoil 
it. I managed to tap it from M5 to M6, and the bigger M6 bolt looks a 
little clunky, but it properly anchors the cable now.

Front end has a proper D-A stem and fairly uncommon and wide Nitto 
B177-48cm Dream Bars. Prolly coulda gone with non-aero D-A brake levers, 
but I usually want 'cross levers for Jersey traffic, so I went aero there. 
Nitto Racing cages 'cause it felt more racey. I kinda mostly/only ride 
Thomson posts, so no D-A there. The Brooks Team Pro is a dark green, though 
that doesn't show well in the pix.

It's a little on the tall/long side for me, 63cm dt c-c, 60.5cm tt, which 
is kinda de rigueur in Riv Land these days but was maybe a little less 
common back then. BB drop is 76mm, chainstays are longish at 44cm and wb is 
104cm, so a crit bike it ain't.  

Pix or it didn't happen, more and higher-res on flickr.

Paul Brodek
Hillsdale, NJ USA

[img]https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51218631413_cc5a80d181_k.jpg[/img]

[img]https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51217707602_31d1bfcc06_k.jpg[/img]

[img]https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50365316941_c7a4475dda_k.jpg[/img]

[img]https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50440286627_b8fb4c3792_k.jpg[/img]

[img]https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50440286327_bd34374447_k.jpg[/img]


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[RBW] Re: Mid-80 steel frames that could be Roadini standins

2021-09-22 Thread Paul Brodek
With a big HOWDY to John G-still have yer Crust, and JP Wiggle?

Just a coupla listings I've noticed at ridiculously low prices. All 
big/tall frames, 'cause that's what I drool over, and I haven't checked out 
frame clearance details, 'cause I ain't buying. None of these are 
pristine/mint, but the OP's search was for inexpensive, and these 
definitely qualify for that. This is but a sampling of what's out there...

https://www.ebay.com/itm/133882531544 (Trek 760---high-end model)
https://www.ebay.com/itm/133882531544 (Trek 660) 
https://www.ebay.com/itm/165084180998 (Raleigh Int'l---these used to go for 
stupid money...)
https://www.ebay.com/itm/165084182153 (Gazelle "Bialystock und 
Bloom---guten tag von deg!" I know Gazelle isn't Swedish, but it's close, 
and how often do I get the chance to call Max and Leo?) 

"I'm wearing a cardboard belt!"
"Go, BialyGO!"

Paul Brodek
Hillsdale, NJ USA
On Monday, September 20, 2021 at 10:22:22 AM UTC-4 John G. wrote:

> I can't believe I almost missed a chance to comment on my favorite topic! 
> You, my friend, are looking for a Regular Ass Road Bike. There are a ton of 
> good suggestions here. Here's my take as a Roadeo owner with a stable of 
> RARBs from the late 70s/early 80s:
>
> -  I love my Roadeo, but I also love my Mercian Superlight, my Mercian 
> Vincitore, my Nishiki Ultimate, etc. 
> - Be careful going after a full touring frame. I have a Voyageur SP. It's 
> very stately, but not very spritely. A touring frame will almost quite 
> certainly throw you into the pain cave that is 27-inch to 700C with Cantis 
> conversion.
> - That being said, and as others have mentioned, you can get GREAT results 
> with a caliper-equipped frame originally made for 27-inch tires. My 
> Vincitore was made for 27 inch tires, and it now fits 35mm 700c under 
> fenders. 
> - a decent frame from that era is worthy of some new components, 
> especially wheels. You'll just need to be mindful of rear spacing. I've 
> been very happy with the VO 126mm hub.
> - Cranks might be an issue, too. A lot of them come with 52/42 chainrings 
> with annoying BCDs like 144. FWIW, I can handle a 53 chainring better on a 
> standard diameter bike than on an OS bike.
>
> If I were you, I'd buy Craig's Mercian in a heartbeat. Don't worry about 
> being precious about it. My Superlight is pretty beat up and has far too 
> much surface rust. You can always get it repainted, which is my plan.
>
>
> On Friday, September 17, 2021 at 10:07:51 PM UTC-4 max.c@gmail.com 
> wrote:
>
>> Paul, I may be interested in that Puch...how much time left do you have 
>> with it? :)
>>
>> On Thursday, September 16, 2021 at 1:41:42 PM UTC-5 Paul in Dallas wrote:
>>
>>>
>>> I recently let a 1986 Schwinn Passage go to a new owner after enjoying a 
>>> lot for around 3 years.
>>>
>>> The only reason I did sell it was because I bought a Sam Hillbourne 
>>> about a year ago and have been riding it more.
>>>
>>> I think the Columbus Tenax tubing of which the Passage is made is pretty 
>>> good stuff. 
>>>
>>> On my 23" Passage frame I squeezed in 700x40 tires with perhaps 2 mm 
>>> clearance on each side in the rear with no problems with true wheels. 
>>>
>>> The other touring bikes mentioned also might suit your needs.
>>>
>>> I've had a Specialized Expedition,  
>>> Miyata  610, Miyata 1000, Nishiki Cresta, Nishiki International, and a 
>>> custom touring bike.
>>>
>>> I don't think from my experience the Passage gave up much to them in 
>>> riding performance or feel or whatever. 
>>>
>>> It had fewer  braze on bosses than some touring models but rode terrific.
>>>
>>> The cantilever posts are a bit more narrow and would not accept some 
>>> cantilever brakes but I just used the Dia Compe original cantilevers with 
>>> higher quality pads and I thought they stopped quite adequately.
>>>
>>> Good luck with your search.
>>>
>>> The past two weeks I've been  tinkering with a 1982, I think,
>>> 24" Puch Austro Daimler Vent Noir Reynolds 531 frame with the smoked 
>>> chrome finish.
>>>
>>> I can fit Jack Brown 700x 33.3 in the rear no problem. 
>>> Non original fork , I don't care for,
>>> however will only take a 32.
>>>
>>> I'm searching for a chrome replacement fork. 
>>>
>>> Good luck with your search.
>>>
>>> Paul in Dallas
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> .
>>>
>>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Mid-80 steel frames that could be Roadini standins

2021-09-22 Thread Paul Brodek
Such a deal/steal! Wish I weren't downsizing myself...

Paul Brodek 
Hillsdale, NJ USA

On Tuesday, September 21, 2021 at 8:18:01 PM UTC-4 Craig Montgomery wrote:

> John G. said: 
> *If I were you, I'd buy Craig's Mercian in a heartbeat. Don't worry about 
> being precious about it. My Superlight is pretty beat up and has far too 
> much surface rust. You can always get it repainted, which is my plan.*
>  And I'll sell the damn thing for $275 shipped 
> with (are you ready?) a Campy headset. Don't remember which model though. 
>  A little something to ponder.
>  Craig in Tucson
>
> On Mon, Sep 20, 2021 at 7:22 AM John G.  wrote:
>
>> I can't believe I almost missed a chance to comment on my favorite topic! 
>> You, my friend, are looking for a Regular Ass Road Bike. There are a ton of 
>> good suggestions here. Here's my take as a Roadeo owner with a stable of 
>> RARBs from the late 70s/early 80s:
>>
>> -  I love my Roadeo, but I also love my Mercian Superlight, my Mercian 
>> Vincitore, my Nishiki Ultimate, etc. 
>> - Be careful going after a full touring frame. I have a Voyageur SP. It's 
>> very stately, but not very spritely. A touring frame will almost quite 
>> certainly throw you into the pain cave that is 27-inch to 700C with Cantis 
>> conversion.
>> - That being said, and as others have mentioned, you can get GREAT 
>> results with a caliper-equipped frame originally made for 27-inch tires. My 
>> Vincitore was made for 27 inch tires, and it now fits 35mm 700c under 
>> fenders. 
>> - a decent frame from that era is worthy of some new components, 
>> especially wheels. You'll just need to be mindful of rear spacing. I've 
>> been very happy with the VO 126mm hub.
>> - Cranks might be an issue, too. A lot of them come with 52/42 chainrings 
>> with annoying BCDs like 144. FWIW, I can handle a 53 chainring better on a 
>> standard diameter bike than on an OS bike.
>>
>> If I were you, I'd buy Craig's Mercian in a heartbeat. Don't worry about 
>> being precious about it. My Superlight is pretty beat up and has far too 
>> much surface rust. You can always get it repainted, which is my plan.
>>
>>
>> On Friday, September 17, 2021 at 10:07:51 PM UTC-4 max.c@gmail.com 
>> wrote:
>>
>>> Paul, I may be interested in that Puch...how much time left do you have 
>>> with it? :)
>>>
>>> On Thursday, September 16, 2021 at 1:41:42 PM UTC-5 Paul in Dallas wrote:
>>>
>>>>
>>>> I recently let a 1986 Schwinn Passage go to a new owner after enjoying 
>>>> a lot for around 3 years.
>>>>
>>>> The only reason I did sell it was because I bought a Sam Hillbourne 
>>>> about a year ago and have been riding it more.
>>>>
>>>> I think the Columbus Tenax tubing of which the Passage is made is 
>>>> pretty good stuff. 
>>>>
>>>> On my 23" Passage frame I squeezed in 700x40 tires with perhaps 2 mm 
>>>> clearance on each side in the rear with no problems with true wheels. 
>>>>
>>>> The other touring bikes mentioned also might suit your needs.
>>>>
>>>> I've had a Specialized Expedition,  
>>>> Miyata  610, Miyata 1000, Nishiki Cresta, Nishiki International, and a 
>>>> custom touring bike.
>>>>
>>>> I don't think from my experience the Passage gave up much to them in 
>>>> riding performance or feel or whatever. 
>>>>
>>>> It had fewer  braze on bosses than some touring models but rode 
>>>> terrific.
>>>>
>>>> The cantilever posts are a bit more narrow and would not accept some 
>>>> cantilever brakes but I just used the Dia Compe original cantilevers with 
>>>> higher quality pads and I thought they stopped quite adequately.
>>>>
>>>> Good luck with your search.
>>>>
>>>> The past two weeks I've been  tinkering with a 1982, I think,
>>>> 24" Puch Austro Daimler Vent Noir Reynolds 531 frame with the smoked 
>>>> chrome finish.
>>>>
>>>> I can fit Jack Brown 700x 33.3 in the rear no problem. 
>>>> Non original fork , I don't care for,
>>>> however will only take a 32.
>>>>
>>>> I'm searching for a chrome replacement fork. 
>>>>
>>>> Good luck with your search.
>>>>
>>>&g

[RBW] Re: Mid-80 steel frames that could be Roadini standins

2021-09-17 Thread Paul Brodek
There are literally tons of candidates out there. I'm old and graying, and 
so understand the literal meaning of "tons." Heck, just amongst us ibobers 
we could likely dig out the 400-500 excess 4lb~5lb frames we'd need to make 
a ton. Maybe not all your size. I won't get into details here since I don't 
have numbers ready, but I've got two 61cm-ish cheapish-but-nice, higher-end 
sport-tour Fujis that'd fit the bill nicely, along with a genuine tourer if 
somebody wanted something stouter, with even better clearance. Plus a 
forkless Miyata 912, and likely a couple others.  

No shortage of candidates...

Paul Brodek
Hillsdale, NJ USA

On Friday, September 17, 2021 at 9:05:03 AM UTC-4 Yankeebird wrote:

> Wow so many sweet looking bikes and so many great ideas... this thread is 
> paying off in spades and has definitely broadened my eye. Lovely. 
> That Mercian is a heartstopper. Wowzer. I couldn't do it. I'm not worthy. 
> You should keep her, for sure. 
>
> Martie, what's the size of that Trek 614... 22.5"?
> On Thursday, September 16, 2021 at 10:36:39 PM UTC-4 Johnny Alien wrote:
>
>> My Saluki was originally owned by Ed Braley
>>
>> On Thursday, September 16, 2021 at 9:59:32 PM UTC-4 Fullylugged wrote:
>>
>>> I have gotten great service out of a mid 80s Nashbar Mark III. It was 
>>> originally converted to 650B by Ed Braley, if you're familiar with the name 
>>> and came to me via a Riv List member.  I rode it for a while with a Veloce 
>>> Compact double, but for a while have used a Chorus 50/40/26 triple.  I have 
>>> an XT in back with a 11-36 9  speed and use it on hilly rides. It maxes out 
>>> at 38mm without fenders on Velocity Synergy or A23 rims. Tange tubing and 
>>> so far very durable. Very affordable frame on the used market. Made for 
>>> Nashbar by Maruishi in Japan.[image: CHC Ferrous.jpg] 
>>>
>>> On Thursday, September 16, 2021 at 5:31:52 PM UTC-5 Marty Gierke, 
>>> Stewartstown PA wrote:
>>>
>>>> I also have this Trek 614 from 1981 that is too small for me. Amazing 
>>>> condition as-found. It came with 27" wheels but I tried a set of 700c 
>>>> wheels with 40mm tires that they actually fit! I would part with it if 
>>>> this 
>>>> floats your boat.  I can get better pics of the current cleaned up state. 
>>>> It's a stunning bike. 
>>>>
>>>> [image: 51036092221_89fff1d3be_c.jpg]
>>>>
>>>> On Thursday, September 16, 2021 at 6:19:39 PM UTC-4 Marty Gierke, 
>>>> Stewartstown PA wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> Keep an eye out for an early to mid 80s Miyata 912 or 914. I picked 
>>>>> this '83 912 up recently and it's a very nice bike. Will fit 32s. One 
>>>>> level 
>>>>> below the pro models. This is an as-found photo - I have since added the 
>>>>> correct seatpost and pedals. Will find replacement hoods. Look at that 
>>>>> sweet fork bend! All Shimano 600EX. Kind of flies under the radar so you 
>>>>> might get lucky.
>>>>>
>>>>> Marty
>>>>>
>>>>> [image: 51403719006_1f39030bf6_c.jpg]
>>>>>
>>>>> On Thursday, September 16, 2021 at 4:56:22 PM UTC-4 Ryan wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>> Craig, if you're asking yourself whether you should sell it, I think 
>>>>>> you'll regret it, just because you have so much history with it.(Why I 
>>>>>> can't part with my old PX-10 and 1993 X0-1...plus 3 Rivendells) .That is 
>>>>>> a 
>>>>>> beauty! So understated and elegant! The Gentleman moniker is very apt. 
>>>>>> Have 
>>>>>> another think about letting go of that...with all due respect to the 
>>>>>> original poster😊
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Ryan in Winnipeg, MB
>>>>>>
>>>>>> On Thursday, September 16, 2021 at 2:21:46 PM UTC-5 Craig Montgomery 
>>>>>> wrote:
>>>>>>
>>>>>>> I actually have one that might interest you Bubba. An '86 Mercian 
>>>>>>> I've had almost 2 decades. 59cm (23 1/2"). 531C. "Sport Touring". 
>>>>>>> 700x32mm 
>>>>>>> BUT my favorite iteration is as a 650Bx38 All Roader. Got these wheels 
>>>>>>> for 
>>>>>>> sale also but they may be more than you want to invest (Phil Wood). I 
>>>>>>&g

Re: [RBW] Re: Mid-80 steel frames that could be Roadini standins

2021-09-17 Thread Paul Brodek
Combining a few threads/thoughts here...

Sorry to be That Guy, but I think we're talking about Water_loo_ Treks, not 
Water_ford_ Treks. Both have Water in them, but Waterford is a completely 
different builder. 

And being That Guy yet again, just a reminder that there was a run of 
early-'80s Trek 600-series frames with Ishiwata CCL forks that had a 
tendency to crack. Specifically '81 Trek 610/613/614 and '82 Trek 613/614 
frames with the Ishiwata CCL fork crown are suspect. The failures were 
typically catastrophic, meaning they failed without warning or showing sign 
of gradual failure. Some folks think it's due to the inside fork crown 
profile not having a stress-relieving tang, but I've heard from more than 
one builder that there are other fork crowns out there with similar 
profiles with better track records, and they suspect the Ishiwata CCL 
crown/blades were simply overheated. Plenty of online info out on the webs 
and here in the forums, as always your call as to whether to use 'em or 
replace 'em. I replaced mine with a Soma.

FWIW, there do seem to be a fairly good supply of used '70s-'80s Treks out 
there these days. I regularly cruise Charles N's bobbish bikes for sale, 
and there are days when more than half the posts are Treks of this era. 

And for those seeking earlier Specialized Sequoias, not a whole lot of 
those surface on my radar. Though I haven't been seeking them out 
specifically, I'm not seeking out older Treks either, but they pop up all 
the time. To be fair, taking in a bunch of different models, the Trek pool 
was originally many tens of thousands, maybe more, where 4-5yrs worth of 
early Sequoias is a significantly smaller pool.

Paul Brodek
Hillsdale, NJ USA  

On Wednesday, September 15, 2021 at 6:09:58 PM UTC-4 mathie...@gmail.com 
wrote:

> Not sure what your size is (and I get the search for a nice long 
> chainstay)  but might I suggest some lower-model Waterford Treks? 
>
> I'm riding a 1983 Trek 620 (which was, unfortunately, listed as a 720) and 
> an even older Trek TX500 that can fit a 700c X 38 tire without fenders. 
> They ride great, I think - though not as nice as a Waterford AHH
>
> Nothing I know-of that's older is going to have those Trek 720/728 
> chainstays though - mine are only a 44mm
>
> And while the prices aren't nearly as crazy for the lower models in 
> smaller sizes (just running a quick ebay search), as Matt noted, prices are 
> still going up 
>
> Best of luck, 
>  
> MATHIEU BROWN
>
>
>
> On Wed, Sep 15, 2021 at 4:17 PM Yankeebird  wrote:
>
>> Oh these are all great, thank you. I mention the Roadini because to my 
>> eye, it mimics a lot of the older touring bikes. The Roadini chainstays are 
>> not uber-long, but a bit longer than a tighter bike, and tubing is not 
>> ultralight, but a bit beefier. To my amateur eye, seems somewhat comparable 
>> to bikes like the 720 or Passage that had slightly longer chainstays and 
>> slightly heavier tubing. Sure, the descriptions might be different, the 
>> Roadini is more "Riv-Racey" and the 720/Passage are serious touring 
>> machines in their era... I wouldn't think that a 720/Passage would ride as 
>> stiffly as an unloaded Long Haul Trucker, for instance. 
>>
>> Am I wrong?
>>
>> On Wednesday, September 15, 2021 at 4:31:31 PM UTC-4 Mike Godwin wrote:
>>
>>> I've been counseling a friend on CL bike, pointing him to a Univega 
>>> Sport Tour, or Gran Sprint (champion 1 vs 2 and mangaloy), early 
>>> Miyatas-Centurion-Fuji-Nishiki crowd, the usual UJB selections. He found a 
>>> Jamis Axis, still to be checked out. Looks like a Tange Infinity sticker on 
>>> the seat tube. UJBs seem to be a better bargain now than low or medium 
>>> grade 531 bikes, but the prices are all over the map. Also check out the 
>>> Schwinn Tenax trinity of Circuit-Tempo-Peloton. Less tire clearance but 
>>> under the radar bikes too.
>>>
>>> Mike SLO CA 
>>>
>>> On Wednesday, September 15, 2021 at 1:01:03 PM UTC-7 Christopher Cote 
>>> wrote:
>>>
>>>> Good point about the 27" to 700c conversion. My Univega Viva Sport 
>>>> originally had 27" wheels, and now has 700c wheels. Plenty of adjustment 
>>>> on 
>>>> the standard reach brakes, and it now has room for at least 35mm tires, 
>>>> maybe 38. 
>>>>
>>>> I've had a bunch of 80s road bikes, and have yet to run into one with a 
>>>> bad headset, but YMMV. 80s MTBs on the other hand... well, they often 
>>>> lived 
>>>> a harder life.
>>>>
>>&g

Re: [RBW] Fattest Tire on a QB?

2021-06-18 Thread Paul Brodek
Holy Moly, a Paul Flatbed? Sorry for the semi-zombie revival, and thread 
drift and all that, but how'd that Flatbed work for you, Jim? I've had one 
forever, trot it out now and then, find it always cool, but kinda floppy. 

Paul Brodek
Hillsdale, NJ USA

On Sunday, March 28, 2021 at 11:03:46 PM UTC-4 Jim M. wrote:

> I had Big Apple 50s on mine. Fit was maybe a little tight but no paint 
> rubbed off, so I think it was good.
>
> jim m
> walnut creek, ca
>
> [image: 3448531380_84086b5829_c (1).jpg]
>
> On Sunday, March 28, 2021 at 3:56:33 PM UTC-7 mkernan...@gmail.com wrote:
>
>> RG,   I used to be able to fit BG rock n roads ( 700x43) on my Orange 64 
>> QB a few years back with the wheel in the middle to rear of the dropouts.   
>> And the RnRs have some decent side knobs to take into account.  Not sure of 
>> exact mm clearance on each side but it was fine.-Mike
>>
>> Sent from my iPhone
>>
>> On Mar 28, 2021, at 11:56 AM, Robert Gardner  
>> wrote:
>>
>> Hi everyone --
>>
>> I recently saw a post on Instagram (which I have subsequently lost track 
>> of) that showed a QB rocking Ultradynamico 700ccs (I think they were the 
>> Rosè racers). 
>>
>> As I am in the market for some new rubber I thought -- WOWZA -- that 
>> would be fun. So, I'm throwing myself at the mercy of the few the proud the 
>> QB riders on this list. What's the fattest you've been able to go on a QB 
>> (if it helps, I ride a 58...)
>>
>> Thanks all --
>>
>> RGinDC
>>
>> -- 
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>>  
>> <https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/rbw-owners-bunch/CAO1DKXtqvXAQ%2BUpWPC3s%2Br82b_K2jfB-Wo24j_E0PFhmSAkhFQ%40mail.gmail.com?utm_medium=email&utm_source=footer>
>> .
>>
>>

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Re: [RBW] Re: question re Dremel attachments

2021-05-19 Thread Paul Brodek
.if you're into the whole brevity thing.

Paul "El Duderino" Brodek
Hillsdale, NJ USA

On Wed, May 19, 2021 at 3:32 PM Patrick Moore  wrote:

> I have to agree that a Dremel with cutting wheel makes stays much easier
> for me; finish off with Dremel grinding bit. Me, my Dremel (a very old but
> nice one found at Goodwill years ago; better than the new one I had bought,
> which I then sold) is corded, but I don't use it enough to make buying a
> new one worthwhile.
>
> But one other secret is to let the rotational speed do the work. I've
> broken dozens and dozens of cutting wheels by pressing to hard when a light
> touch would get the job done easier, faster, and neater.
>
> On Wed, May 19, 2021 at 11:12 AM Paul Brodek  wrote:
>
>> ... The key Dremel heaven is to use a rechargeable Dremel, no cord to get
>> in the way or limit travel.
>>
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[RBW] Re: question re Dremel attachments

2021-05-19 Thread Paul Brodek
I slip with a hand file a heckuva lot more than I do with a Dremel. 

And the Dremel leaves so much less to finish after the cut. Sometimes it 
just takes a few twists with some sandpaper.

I don't have a lot of Honjo tubular struts, but I've got a couple/few, and 
snips/cutters don't make any sense there. Dremel or hacksaw.

The key Dremel heaven is to use a rechargeable Dremel, no cord to get in 
the way or limit travel.

And that's all I have to say about that

Paul Brodek
Hillsdale, NJ USA





On Sunday, May 16, 2021 at 12:05:42 PM UTC-4 bicycler...@gmail.com wrote:

> Are you set on using a dremel for cutting and finishing? 
> I use a pair of bolt cutters and a bench top belt sander with good 
> results. I just worry about operating spinny, cutty tools so near a 
> (presumably) beautiful paint job. It's of course more work to fit them, cut 
> them, take them off, finish the edges and then reinstall, but maybe I'm 
> just one to take the scenic route. 
> If I'm in a "hurry" I'll cut with the bolt cutters and finish with a hand 
> file, leaving the strut mounted to the fender but not mounted to the frame 
> eyelet. 
> All the same, if you're handy with the Dremel and trust that you won't 
> nick the paint, I've always enjoyed using a flex shaft attachment, as it's 
> easier to articulate with. 
> Best of luck!
> -Addison 
>
>
> On Thursday, May 13, 2021 at 7:50:11 PM UTC-7 Jim S. wrote:
>
>> Hi all, I'm fixing to cut some fender stays and rack struts with my 
>> Dremel rotary.
>>
>> Wow, there are an incredible number of attachment options. It's rather 
>> paralyzing.
>>
>> I'd be grateful if you could recommend (1) a Dremel attachment for 
>> cutting stays or struts, and (2) an attachment for smoothing out the sharp 
>> edges after the cuts.
>>
>> Thanks for any information.
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: question re Dremel attachments

2021-05-14 Thread Paul Brodek
I'm definitely Team EZ Lock, and have been using the standard Metal Cut Off 
Wheel for a long time. They do wear/shrink with use, and I just spied this:
https://us.dremel.com/en/products/-/show-product/accessories/dremel-ez506hp-premium-metal-cutting-wheel

I'm down to just a couple of wheels, so I think I'll try the Premiums next.

BTW, I use these for cutting/trimming cable housing, too. With a 
rechargeable Dremel. Highly recommended.

For smoothing/sanding, I'm a little more old school, and only use hand/arm 
power for that. I feel like I have more control with files/sandpaper, and 
slips are less catastrophic. 

Paul Brodek
Hillsdale, NJ USA

On Friday, May 14, 2021 at 8:55:25 AM UTC-4 philipr...@gmail.com wrote:

> Streuth mate, how about the US links, not the Aussie ones;
>
>
> https://us.dremel.com/en_US/products/-/show-product/accessories/dremel-ez406-02-ez-lock-cut-off-wheel-starter-kit
>
>
> https://us.dremel.com/en_US/products/-/show-product/accessories/ez407sa-ez-drum-mandrel
>
> On Friday, May 14, 2021 at 7:53:19 AM UTC-5 Philip Barrett wrote:
>
>> I did this with a hacksaw just yesterday! Should have done it your way, 
>> pure laziness not wanting to leave the house & buy replacement Dremel parts.
>>
>> For cutting you want their E-Z Cut system which has a nice quick release. 
>> Use the "real" Dremel wheels as the quality of the cuts is so much higher 
>> with less likelihood of shattering.
>>
>>
>> https://www.dremel.com/au/en/p/dremel-ez-lock-metal-cut-off-wheel-ez456-v746
>>
>> For smoothing & sanding, they make an E-Z Lock system for their 13mm 
>> mandrels which should work great.
>>
>>
>> https://www.dremel.com/au/en/p/dremel-ez-lock-sanding-mandrel-sanding-band-ez407-v742
>>
>>
>>
>> On Thursday, May 13, 2021 at 9:50:11 PM UTC-5 Jim S. wrote:
>>
>>> Hi all, I'm fixing to cut some fender stays and rack struts with my 
>>> Dremel rotary.
>>>
>>> Wow, there are an incredible number of attachment options. It's rather 
>>> paralyzing.
>>>
>>> I'd be grateful if you could recommend (1) a Dremel attachment for 
>>> cutting stays or struts, and (2) an attachment for smoothing out the sharp 
>>> edges after the cuts.
>>>
>>> Thanks for any information.
>>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: Repaints

2021-04-13 Thread Paul Brodek
Ooooh, yay! It's not often I get to steal Andy C's thunder. I AM THE 
THUNDER KING

This radavist article seems to say that Johnny Coast uses Bilenky for some 
painting. There was an earlier '07 Velo Orange blogpost that said JC used a 
local painter for regular finishes, and a non-local painter for the more 
upscale stuff. But this stuff dates back 10-14yrs, so who knows now?
https://theradavist.com/2010/05/the-atavistic-urge-johnny-coast-and-seth-rosko/

And I totally get Joe B's point about somebody like Rick Stefani/D&D having 
experience painting hundreds of Rivs means he knows where the decals should 
go. And if you live near San Lorenzo, CA, and can handle whatever D&D 
charges (I have no idea how much that is, couldn't find any web links with 
a quick search), that's a great option. But if you live in NYC and want to 
stay relatively local, a good painter can get decals right without having 
done hundreds of a particular brand.

Paul Brodek
Hillsdale, NJ USA

On Tuesday, April 13, 2021 at 7:47:15 AM UTC-4 ascpgh wrote:

>
> Michael M. and Paul B. stole my thunder. I was also going to aim you 
> toward Johnny Coast and Coast Cycles too, not because he paints but because 
> the painter he uses has done some really nice work and he may be able to 
> help you with your reshoot with some sense of budget.
>
> I have an Orange Rambouillet that was repainted once by Josh Bell after 
> warranty replacement of rear dropouts (DS cracked, RIv replaced both) in 
> the first couple of years that included a cross country ride. When my rear 
> brake bridge came unbrazed I got it repaired but artfully rattle canned the 
> affected area with the contrast color, introducing a non-stock panel on the 
> stays.  Pricing from Joe Bell and estimates from several list members lead 
> me to seeding the step into a custom which Johnny built. I've been to his 
> shop, My friend and I manned he and Brian Chapman's booth at the last 
> Philly Bike Expo while Brad Quartuccio photographed them with their show 
> bikes. I got to see lots of details up close and the Coast paints, 
> especially metallics were eye candy. The lavender and green ones were 
> really alluring under the lights. 
>
> Part of why my wife and our friend chose the French Vanilla color of my 
> Coast when we were all in his shop was the ease of any future reshoot. The 
> orange Rambouillet finish is complex and it is tough to touch up. I also 
> figured (rationalized) that after dropouts and brake bridge repairs the 
> cost of a reshoot was better spent towards a bespoke frame. 
>
> Best of luck getting your Ram back in cosmetic trim!
>
> Andy Cheatham
> Pittsburgh  
> On Monday, April 12, 2021 at 10:34:11 PM UTC-4 Paul Brodek wrote:
>
>> If Johnny Coast in Brooklyn isn't doing resprays, he should be good for 
>> leads. Great builder, swell guy, can't imagine he wouldn't be helpful 
>> w/recs if he's not doing that work.
>>
>> On the Jersey side, Bruce Risley at the Color Factory in Waretown, NJ, 
>> "down the shore" as we say in Jersey, has been painting for decades and has 
>> a great rep for excellent work at reasonable prices. He doesn't have a lot 
>> of web presence, but will email you price sheets and color swatches and 
>> stuff.
>>
>> I've also seen happy reports from Chelsea Bicycles in Union City, NJ. 
>> Chelsea used to have a NYC location, in Chelsea, natch, but they closed 
>> that and are in Union City now. Supposedly they do their own paint.
>>
>> A little further north, I think Carl S. at Vicious Cycles in New Paltz, 
>> NY is still doing resprays. Last time I peeked his website info looked a 
>> little dated, might be worth both a google and a call.  
>>
>> FWIW, I can't think of much unique to Riv that would favor a painter with 
>> previous Riv painting experience. Rivs are steel tubes, sometimes lugs, 
>> sometimes welds, nothing really different from other traditional steel 
>> frames. The double top tube frames are probably more of a pain, but anybody 
>> who's been painting for a while has done tandems and mixtes, and they can 
>> have a whole lot more tubes to cover.
>>
>> I don't know what Grant does about decals, whether he stocks/sells them 
>> to painters/anybody, only specific painters, etc. There might be repro 
>> decals available. Painters oughta be able to tell you what they can/can't 
>> source.
>>
>> Good luck, let us know how it goes, and before/after photos would be fun 
>> to see!
>>
>> Paul Brodek
>> Hillsdale, NJ USA
>>
>>
>>
>> On Monday, April 12, 2021 at 3:20:23 PM UTC-4 Buc

[RBW] Re: Repaints

2021-04-12 Thread Paul Brodek
If Johnny Coast in Brooklyn isn't doing resprays, he should be good for 
leads. Great builder, swell guy, can't imagine he wouldn't be helpful 
w/recs if he's not doing that work.

On the Jersey side, Bruce Risley at the Color Factory in Waretown, NJ, 
"down the shore" as we say in Jersey, has been painting for decades and has 
a great rep for excellent work at reasonable prices. He doesn't have a lot 
of web presence, but will email you price sheets and color swatches and 
stuff.

I've also seen happy reports from Chelsea Bicycles in Union City, NJ. 
Chelsea used to have a NYC location, in Chelsea, natch, but they closed 
that and are in Union City now. Supposedly they do their own paint.

A little further north, I think Carl S. at Vicious Cycles in New Paltz, NY 
is still doing resprays. Last time I peeked his website info looked a 
little dated, might be worth both a google and a call.  

FWIW, I can't think of much unique to Riv that would favor a painter with 
previous Riv painting experience. Rivs are steel tubes, sometimes lugs, 
sometimes welds, nothing really different from other traditional steel 
frames. The double top tube frames are probably more of a pain, but anybody 
who's been painting for a while has done tandems and mixtes, and they can 
have a whole lot more tubes to cover.

I don't know what Grant does about decals, whether he stocks/sells them to 
painters/anybody, only specific painters, etc. There might be repro decals 
available. Painters oughta be able to tell you what they can/can't source.

Good luck, let us know how it goes, and before/after photos would be fun to 
see!

Paul Brodek
Hillsdale, NJ USA



On Monday, April 12, 2021 at 3:20:23 PM UTC-4 Buck Flagg wrote:

> Hello, group! Help needed!
>
> I am getting to the point with my RivBike that I will soon be needing a 
> repaint. My fifteen year-old Rambouillet is a four-season commuter with 
> around 55K miles on it, 99% racked up on NYC streets and bike lanes. With 
> all that, not to mention daily chaining to a bike rack, it would be 
> impossible to maintain a frame in pristine condition but now my periodic 
> inspections are starting to turn up evidence of corrosion causing wee 
> blisters in the original paint in a few places.
>
> The Rivendell website page on repaints lists a couple of shops in CA and 
> Waterford.
>
> Anyone here have any wisdom/experience/opinions on this subject they'd 
> care to offer regarding these or any other paint shops? Ideally, I'd love 
> to find someone with mad skilz in the greater NYC area who has experience 
> with the Rivendell product and access to the Rivendell decals.
>
> Very grateful, in advance, for any help!
>

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[RBW] WTT: My Soma Supple Vitesse SL 700x38 Skinwall For Your Same In Blackwall

2021-04-09 Thread Paul Brodek
Apologies if this is a little too nerdy/matchy-matchy, but I want to go 
with all-black tires on a gravelly bike, and I'm plumb out. But I have 
excess skinwall

So what I've got is a very clean pair of Soma Supple Vitesse Superlight 
skinwall tires in 38-622/700c, and would like to trade for the same in 
all-black. 

Soma does have all-black in stock in 38s right now, but I figured I'd try 
to see if anybody was looking to swap first. 

And apologies in advance for being persnickety and maybe not seeming 
grateful, but I'm not interested in any other brand/model/size/colorway 
tire for this project.

Thanks for the bandwidth,

Paul Brodek
Hillsdale, NJ USA

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Re: [RBW] NBD (New Bike Delayed)

2021-03-11 Thread Paul Brodek
Oooof, yeah, best wishes for a uneventful outcome.

I had probably the minty-est complete vintage bike I'd ever bought run into 
dark clouds shipped via FedEx from Birmingham, AL to Jersey. Package got 
late, tracking showed the box going back and forth between AL and the FedEx 
Memphis hub 3 times. 3 times. As if there clearly was a serious problem, 
and neither the origin nor the hub wanted to take responsibility. It 
finally arrived in new packaging, two large square boxes piled on top of 
each other and taped together to form a vertical box, the right size/shape 
for a refriderator, The bike was stuffed inside, sitting wheelie-style on 
the back wheel, fork at about my eyelevel, with the front wheel and some 
other parts basically just tossed inside, loose and rattling around.

The bad news was the horror show that greeted me when I opened the box. The 
good news was although it no longer looked unused/unridden, the frame only 
picked up a couple/few small marks, and only the rims needed replacing. It 
could have been considerably worse. Fork got pretty tweaked, but Peter 
Weigle straightened that out. Seller's discount for all the damage/trouble 
covered all the work.

So FedEx trashes stuff, too, and for Marty, things can look/sound pretty 
ugly but still turn out OK. Keep yer fingers crossed, keep yer eyes on yer 
lucky stars. While I try to steal yer Lucky Charms! Sorry, St. Patty's 
day's just around the corner.

Paul Brodek
Hillsdale, NJ USA

On Thursday, March 11, 2021 at 4:33:01 PM UTC-5 Curtis wrote:

> Hoping for a good outcome for you.  
> Being the recipient of that notice would be a nightmare scenario.
>
> Best regards,
>
> Curtis
> El Cajon CA
>
> On Thu, Mar 11, 2021, 1:11 PM Marty Gierke, Stewartstown PA <
> martin...@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>> Awaiting a frame from the Left Coast, due for delivery tomorrow, and 
>> checked progress just now. Not what you want to see:
>>
>> [image: weqwewer.jpg]
>> UPS is the carrier, shipped via Bikeflights. Fingers crossed.
>>
>> Marty "holding my breath" in PA
>>
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>>
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[RBW] Re: WTB: Brooks C19

2021-02-23 Thread Paul Brodek
There's somebody on paceline with a bunch of new C19 saddles to sell. No 
connection to the sale, I don't get commission, not sure if I even know the 
seller (anonymous handles on paceline):
https://forums.thepaceline.net/showthread.php?t=263419

Paul Brodek
Hillsdale, NJ USA

On Monday, February 22, 2021 at 8:56:14 AM UTC-5 Justin Kennedy (Brooklyn, 
NY) wrote:

> My Brooks C19 got swiped from my Xtracycle over the weekend (just the 
> saddle, not the post which is Pitlock'd). Anyone have one sitting around 
> they'd be up for selling? Dug out my old Abus saddle lock so this won't 
> happen again...
>
> Thanks,
>
> Justin. 
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Custom Details

2021-02-19 Thread Paul Brodek
I'm having weird posting stuff today, apologies again if this is a dupe.

I've seen quite a few seatstay-mount chain hangers shear off. Depending on 
location and with short chain length and/or higher chain tension, they can 
also make it a little difficult to get the wheel in/out. Chainstay mount 
doesn't have either problem.

Back in my yout, that chainstay-mount attachment was thought to have been 
invented by the Murphy Bros. at Columbine. I phrase it that way because I'm 
now pretty used to thinking something like this only to have somebody say: 
"The French/Italians/whoevs were doing this in the 1930s!" Or 1800s. Or 
whenevs.

I have two '82 Columbines, but neither have the Columbine chainstay-mount 
hanger. One has a standard cyclindrical-shaped boss, the other has an 
unusual (to me) kinda squished L-shaped hook. Pictured below, but it was 
hard to get the angle I wanted with the bike hanging on a hook. It does 
hold the chain a little more securely, but would shear off just as easily 
if I forgot the unhook the chain and rode off.

[image: 50959204003_9099d0d08a_w.jpg][image: 
50959904256_c16d9ce0ee_w.jpg][image: 
50960004487_1048f8ec0b_w(1).jpg]

Paul Brodek
Hillsdale, NJ USA

On Friday, February 19, 2021 at 11:12:36 AM UTC-5 lconley wrote:

> Grant recommended against that type of chain hanger when I got my custom. 
> He recommended the chainstay mounted version instead. He said that with the 
> seat stay version, people would forget the chain was hung and push down on 
> the pedals and rip it out of the seat stay because you could mount the rear 
> wheel with the chain still on the hanger. With the chainstay version, you 
> have to get the chain off the chain hanger to get the rear wheel in. 
>
> [image: IMG_0558 (2).jpg]
>
> Laing
>
> On Friday, February 19, 2021 at 11:01:47 AM UTC-5 ericf3 wrote:
>
>> It's not really an easter egg, but it IS a wonderful detail: the peg on 
>> the frame above the rear axle to hand the chain on. I am recalling it now 
>> as I took a fix-your-bike course a while back and my Bertrand* was on the 
>> workstand and when the peg was pointed out, the rest of the class was 
>> completely agog at such a thing.
>>
>> Does my Riv have one? Not sure, I imagine it does.
>>
>> No picture, the bike is in Ontario. But here is someone else's example
>>
>> [image: image.png]
>> EricF
>> Vancouver
>>
>>
>> * frame by Marinoni
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: Custom Details

2021-02-19 Thread Paul Brodek
Very cool!

This goes back almost 40yrs now, but when building up a tricked-out 
24"-wheel Fuji Junior SE (up-spec'd with Valite tubing) for my petite 
destined-to-be-wifey, I realized that uberlight aluminum alloy Japanese 
1yen coins were a perfect outer-diameter fit for 1" handlebar ends. They 
had to be crazy-glued in place, so not as perfect/elegant as friction-fit 
pedal caps, but an alloy 1yen coin weighs a lot less than a nickel.

My Minolta CLE didn't have macro capability, so no close-up photos. No 
further-away photos, either.

Paul "Hypens" Brodek
Hillsdale, NJ USA

On Thursday, February 18, 2021 at 5:14:16 PM UTC-5 Collin A wrote:

> I hammered in some nickels in the place of the plastic dust cover on some 
> MKS pedals for my now fiance's bike.
> [image: IMG_20200411_154351.jpg]
>

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[RBW] Re: $500 commuter bike as a low-budget AHH?

2021-01-29 Thread Paul Brodek
It will be tres chic---mon dieu!

Now where's my Oeuf McMuffin?

Paul "No habla Francois" Brodek
Hillsdale, NJ USA

On Friday, January 29, 2021 at 9:50:11 PM UTC-5 Mark Roland wrote:

> Nice Paul! And you speak French! Can't wait to see your line of handbags 
> and accessories.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> 1 
>
> On Friday, January 29, 2021 at 3:46:02 PM UTC-5 Paul Brodek wrote:
>
>> Clare V. stole it from moi!
>>
>> Paul Brodek
>> Hillsdale, NJ USA
>>
>> [image: 50789433293_09ef384eaf_c.jpg]a
>>
>> On Friday, January 29, 2021 at 8:00:45 AM UTC-5 Mark Roland wrote:
>>
>>> Joe wrote: 
>>> *I don't know much about Linus but I've never seen an ugly one. *
>>>
>>> This one might not be flat out ugly, but I would classify it as a 
>>> bicycle fashion faux pas. It's one of those bikes done as a "collab" with a 
>>> famous (or in this case, maybe not so famous?) designer. Apparently Clare 
>>> V. is French but her company is in LA and makes handbags and accessories. 
>>>
>>> The problem I have with her colorway is that, for most people familiar 
>>> with bicycles, when you see one with a completely different color fork 
>>> (other than chrome, perhaps black) you think oh, the bike was wrecked and 
>>> that is a replacement fork. The true cognescenti will then wonder if there 
>>> is a ripple in the down tube. Not only did this bike suffer a front end 
>>> collision, but it was rear-ended! It would be like designing a Tesla with a 
>>> different colored hood and rear panel. Also the colors would remind me of 
>>> Christmas every day. I think for this to work you would need to go further: 
>>> yellow front fender, pale blue chaincase, white with polka dots saddle, 
>>> purple grips. Now you wouldn't think replacement parts 
>>> <https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MFCJ6qB26YA>.
>>>
>>> Here's  a winter time passer for those of us in single digit temps this 
>>> morning: If Rivendell were to do a "collab", who would you like to see 
>>> sitting next to GP at the drawing board?
>>>
>>> [image: clare v bicycle.JPG]
>>>
>>> On Friday, January 29, 2021 at 12:51:59 AM UTC-5 Joe Bernard wrote:
>>>
>>>> I don't know much about Linus but I've never seen an ugly one. Whomever 
>>>> is behind that brand is *into *it.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> On Thursday, January 28, 2021 at 5:08:49 PM UTC-8 bjmi...@gmail.com 
>>>> wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> I actually looked at Brooklyn bicycles back in November of 2019 when I 
>>>>> was looking to buy my first bike since middle school...I was 38 at the 
>>>>> time. I REALLY wanted a Rivendell because of a buddy in college who sold 
>>>>> me 
>>>>> on the company, but wasn't going to spend that kind of money until I knew 
>>>>> I 
>>>>> loved riding. I really liked the look of the Bedfords. I e-mailed with 
>>>>> Brooklyn and they recommended the Roebling for my height, and I didn't 
>>>>> like 
>>>>> it as much aesthetically. I had no idea Grant had anything to do with 
>>>>> this 
>>>>> company until last month! I ended up with a Linus Altore 7, which I 
>>>>> honesty 
>>>>> really liked and borderline loved it after swapping out a few things and 
>>>>> making it a budget-build Riv-a-like. 
>>>>>
>>>>> On Thursday, January 28, 2021 at 4:33:49 PM UTC-6 Tom Wyland wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>> A Handsome Devil is basically a  tig-welded SAM.   It looks similar 
>>>>>> to the bike you linked, but it's double-butted 4130 and has canti 
>>>>>> brakes.  
>>>>>> Room for 45s without fenders, 38 with fenders.  I have one.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> On Thursday, January 28, 2021 at 4:23:42 PM UTC-5 Nick in Sac wrote:
>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Awhile back, I worked for a bike shop that had these as rentals. 
>>>>>>> They were a nice ride but equipped with pretty low-end components and 
>>>>>>> made 
>>>>>>> with a hi-tensile steel frame. At the time, I wasn't aware of Rivendell 
>>>>>>> or 
>>>>>>> Grant Petersen's design philosophy. I didn't pay much attention

Re: [RBW] Re: 9 Speed Cassette Availability

2021-01-26 Thread Paul Brodek

In general the fancier cassettes are primarily lighter, usually by using 
multi-cog carriers, while SRAM's highest-end cassettes are almost entirely 
one-piece affairs. The difference in weight can be substantial, almost 
1/2lb going from a 11-36t SRAM 1050>1090 (10spd), but the $/gram cost gets 
high, and the weight saved compared to the overall weight of a loaded 
touring bike + rider is pretty insubstantial.

Paul Brodek
Hillsdale, NJ USA

On Tuesday, January 26, 2021 at 5:50:49 PM UTC-5 David Person wrote:

> Lots of options for 12-36 9-speed on eBay.  I think the main difference in 
> quality and price has to do with weight.  Lower 'quality' cassette is going 
> to weigh more.
>
>
> https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=12%2036%20Cassette%209&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-156598-662049-2&mkcid=2&keyword=12%2036%20cassette%209&crlp=473230128454_&MT_ID=&geo_id=&rlsatarget=kwd-301632702719&adpos=&device=c&mktype=&loc=9031172&poi=&abcId=9110001&cmpgn=11204157517&sitelnk=&adgroupid=112375772800&network=g&matchtype=p&gclid=Cj0KCQiAmL-ABhDFARIsAKywVaf1sHfO0IWrIYCFiNSAxz56TKp9WSp0ixiZDk38-pRhRPnZMgJBrbMaAh5XEALw_wcB
>
>
>
> On Tuesday, January 26, 2021 at 2:19:18 PM UTC-8 lconley wrote:
>
>> There is also IRD, who makes a 12-30 and a12-34 9 speed. and a 13-38 8 
>> speed for that matter.
>>
>> Note that I just built a bike with a brand new Shimano 14-34 7 speed 
>> FREEWHEEL (Shimano actually just issued an updated model within the last 
>> year) with a twist grip indexing a Shimano Altus M310 derailleur. Parts 
>> obsolescence is not as much of a worry as some think. But I do of course 
>> have a brand new in the box 12-36 Shimano 9 speed just in case
>>
>> Laing
>>
>> On Tuesday, January 26, 2021 at 5:03:26 PM UTC-5 Steve Palincsar wrote:
>>
>>> For most road drivetrains (i.e., not 26" wheels, and not tiny microdrive 
>>> chain rings) 12 is a better 1st position than 11 (because it's not as 
>>> unreasonably high) and in the case of the 12-36, it can easily be 
>>> customized into a 13-36 simply by replacing the 1st position sprocket (and 
>>> for most road drive trains with 48T chain rings or larger, a 13T 1st 
>>> position gives you a more usable top gear than a 12, and at the very top 
>>> end a 1 tooth gap is nicer than a 2 tooth gap).  In my opinion.
>>>
>>>
>>>

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Re: [RBW] Bike frame suggestions for longish distance 95% road comfort

2021-01-23 Thread Paul Brodek
Oh, and forgive my language, but the rear protruding black thingie is 
labeled "Ass Saver," so a demi-fender, crud-catcher device.

Can't ID the cantis, I've seen 'em before, but...look wide profile, and 
also look to have a nice, longish slot for wide-range brake shoe height 
adjustment.

Paul Brodek
Hillsdale, NJ USA

On Saturday, January 23, 2021 at 5:38:29 PM UTC-5 Patrick Moore wrote:

> Very nice!
>
> What are those tires, and (as someone who after 2 decades installed 
> cantilevers on a new frame), what are the brakes?
>
> And, what is that black thing sticking out behind the saddle just above 
> the reflective triangle?
>
> Ten thousand bonus points for that light bracket!
>
> On Sat, Jan 23, 2021 at 1:58 PM Andrew Turner  
> wrote:
>
>> DRIVE SIDE UPDATE! 
>> After I had the frame modified, I was running it raw until a cringey ride 
>> on salty roads convinced me to get it powder coated. Here's the final 
>> build! Thanks again Reid. Still loving it. 
>> [image: 01_23_21_A.jpg]
>>
>> my favorite detail is the SimWorks stem cap: 
>>
>> [image: 01_23_21_B.jpg]
>>
>> On Tuesday, August 11, 2020 at 9:03:05 AM UTC-5 Dave Johnston wrote:
>>
>>> How much lighter is a Roadeo? My 56cm Ram was Frame=4.8lb, fork = 1.7lb 
>>> on my fishing scale.
>>>
>>> -Dave J
>>>
>>> On Saturday, July 18, 2020 at 3:33:47 PM UTC-4, RichS wrote:
>>>>
>>>> John,
>>>>
>>>> The Roadeo frame is much lighter than the Ram's. Definitely not 
>>>> equivalent.
>>>>
>>>> Best,
>>>> Rich in ATL
>>>>
>>>> On Saturday, July 18, 2020 at 2:28:05 PM UTC-4, Tirebiter ATX wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>> Not being familiar with the Rambouillet, I went searching for info.  
>>>>> One reviewer thought the Rambo was the early equivalent of today’s 
>>>>> Roadeo.  
>>>>> Do you think this is the case?
>>>>> Thanks!
>>>>>
>>>>> On Sat, Jul 18, 2020 at 5:16 AM Surlyprof  wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>> https://groups.google.com/forum/m/#!topic/rbw-owners-bunch/pb0nSlJHVn0
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Would you fit a 60 Rambouillet?  John’s looks like a great deal.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> John
>>>>>> Niles, CA
>>>>>>
>>>>>> -- 
>>>>>> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google 
>>>>>> Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group.
>>>>>> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, 
>>>>>> send an email to rbw-owne...@googlegroups.com.
>>>>>> To view this discussion on the web visit 
>>>>>> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/rbw-owners-bunch/3b869802-106c-44dd-aa4f-31cecc7bdae4o%40googlegroups.com
>>>>>> .
>>>>>>
>>>>> -- 
>> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
>> "RBW Owners Bunch" group.
>>
> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an 
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>>  
>> <https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/rbw-owners-bunch/d0906399-2158-4ada-8d51-6c0222ce1b8dn%40googlegroups.com?utm_medium=email&utm_source=footer>
>> .
>>
>
>
> -- 
>
> ---
> Patrick Moore
> Alburquerque, Nuevo Mexico, Etats Unis d'Amerique, Orbis Terrarum
>
>

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Re: [RBW] Bike frame suggestions for longish distance 95% road comfort

2021-01-23 Thread Paul Brodek
I spy Rene Herse Bon Jon Pass Extralight 38-622.

Looks great---congrats!

Who did the repaint?

Paul Brodek
Hillsdale, NJ USA

On Saturday, January 23, 2021 at 5:38:29 PM UTC-5 Patrick Moore wrote:

> Very nice!
>
> What are those tires, and (as someone who after 2 decades installed 
> cantilevers on a new frame), what are the brakes?
>
> And, what is that black thing sticking out behind the saddle just above 
> the reflective triangle?
>
> Ten thousand bonus points for that light bracket!
>
> On Sat, Jan 23, 2021 at 1:58 PM Andrew Turner  
> wrote:
>
>> DRIVE SIDE UPDATE! 
>> After I had the frame modified, I was running it raw until a cringey ride 
>> on salty roads convinced me to get it powder coated. Here's the final 
>> build! Thanks again Reid. Still loving it. 
>> [image: 01_23_21_A.jpg]
>>
>> my favorite detail is the SimWorks stem cap: 
>>
>> [image: 01_23_21_B.jpg]
>>
>> On Tuesday, August 11, 2020 at 9:03:05 AM UTC-5 Dave Johnston wrote:
>>
>>> How much lighter is a Roadeo? My 56cm Ram was Frame=4.8lb, fork = 1.7lb 
>>> on my fishing scale.
>>>
>>> -Dave J
>>>
>>> On Saturday, July 18, 2020 at 3:33:47 PM UTC-4, RichS wrote:
>>>>
>>>> John,
>>>>
>>>> The Roadeo frame is much lighter than the Ram's. Definitely not 
>>>> equivalent.
>>>>
>>>> Best,
>>>> Rich in ATL
>>>>
>>>> On Saturday, July 18, 2020 at 2:28:05 PM UTC-4, Tirebiter ATX wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>> Not being familiar with the Rambouillet, I went searching for info.  
>>>>> One reviewer thought the Rambo was the early equivalent of today’s 
>>>>> Roadeo.  
>>>>> Do you think this is the case?
>>>>> Thanks!
>>>>>
>>>>> On Sat, Jul 18, 2020 at 5:16 AM Surlyprof  wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>> https://groups.google.com/forum/m/#!topic/rbw-owners-bunch/pb0nSlJHVn0
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Would you fit a 60 Rambouillet?  John’s looks like a great deal.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> John
>>>>>> Niles, CA
>>>>>>
>>>>>> -- 
>>>>>> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google 
>>>>>> Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group.
>>>>>> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, 
>>>>>> send an email to rbw-owne...@googlegroups.com.
>>>>>> To view this discussion on the web visit 
>>>>>> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/rbw-owners-bunch/3b869802-106c-44dd-aa4f-31cecc7bdae4o%40googlegroups.com
>>>>>> .
>>>>>>
>>>>> -- 
>> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
>> "RBW Owners Bunch" group.
>>
> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an 
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>>  
>> <https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/rbw-owners-bunch/d0906399-2158-4ada-8d51-6c0222ce1b8dn%40googlegroups.com?utm_medium=email&utm_source=footer>
>> .
>>
>
>
> -- 
>
> ---
> Patrick Moore
> Alburquerque, Nuevo Mexico, Etats Unis d'Amerique, Orbis Terrarum
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Saw FS: 60cm Rivendell Custom

2021-01-19 Thread Paul Brodek
Noice! Price for the curious is $3,200.

I spy a similarly large-ish Waterford Paramount behind the Riv, in lovely 
Frigidaire White (just made that up). That floats my boat, too, except for 
the carbon fork. $2k. 

Gosh darnit, but Seattle has cool bikes...

Paul Brodek
Hillsdale, NJ USA

On Tuesday, January 19, 2021 at 12:15:09 PM UTC-5 rcn...@hotmail.com wrote:

> Hi all: Saw this at the LBS today.  Not mine.  Purty!  Contact Recycled 
> Cycles in Seattle if interested.
>
> Ryan
> [image: 1.jpg][image: 2.jpg]
>

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[RBW] Re: Weight question / I'm obviously confused

2021-01-12 Thread Paul Brodek
Many interesting/helpful electrons already spilled on this. I'll only 
add

1. I have a very hard time myself characterizing frame-related ride 
characteristics. That said, here I'm having trouble contrasting "lumbering 
feeling on a hilly ride" with "gets smoother with more weight." Also, "not 
faster, but easier." Was the ride being hilly important, meaning the bike 
feels less lumbering on flatter rides? Did the bike climb faster with the 
iron bar addition? Or did you get more oomph on the downhills before the 
climbs to give you more momentum on the way up? Heavier weight made 
steering more controllable? Or something else? Not trying to pick nits 
here, just trying to understand better, while happily admitting I 
particularly stink trying to describe this stuff myself.
2. But TIRES TIRES TIRES TIRES TIRES. Oh, and TIRES. Dead tires = dead 
ride. I think especially with tires this wide, and with wheelbases this 
long.
3. Weight savings going to a smaller frame will only be ounces, which are 
immaterial in the overall rider/bike weight calculation. If it was just 
frame weight that mattered, you could A/B compare by riding with/without a 
half-full water bottle. It's not the weight so much as the flex. What would 
be more important to ride quality would be if the smaller frame had 
thinner-diameter tubes, or thinner-wall tubes, which would flex more. I 
suppose shorter-length frame tubes and longer seatposts/stems would also 
factor in, though, regardless of tube width/thickness.

Paul Brodek
Hillsdale, NJ USA
On Saturday, January 9, 2021 at 6:37:33 PM UTC-5 Jim Whorton wrote:

> I have a 59cm Clem H that is a little too big for me (I am 6' 1", 89 
> PBH).  So I was riding it on some hilly pavement today, thinking what a 
> lumbering hulk this bike is and how I need a smaller one.  I came across a 
> piece of iron pipe in the road.  I thought, "I need to tie that on my bike 
> because it will make everything worse, proving my point."  I tied it on the 
> bike and to my confusion, the bike rode more smoothly.  It felt great.  It 
> didn't feel faster but it felt easier and just really nice.  Smoother.  The 
> simplest explanation is that I am confused and imagining things, because 
> adding pounds to my Clem H should not make it nicer to ride.  Butis it 
> possible I was not confused?
>
> I will try to insert a picture.  
>
> Jim in Rochester
>
> [image: IMG_1544.jpg]
>
>
>

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[RBW] Re: WTB: Drop Bar/Stem/Brake/Shifter set up

2021-01-01 Thread Paul Brodek
Awesome, that narrows down how many piles I have to root through!

If indexed, how many speeds would you be indexing?

Does the stem need to be Technomic-ish high-rise? 

Hoping for fully wrapped with bar-cons and aero levers is pretty tricky, 
since how long do the cables/housing need to be? Too long can be cut 
shorter, but too long means maybe new cables/casing and a rewrap.

And where would one be shipping to? Since once we're talking drop bars, box 
can't be very small.

Paul Brodek
Hillsdale, NJ USA

On Friday, January 1, 2021 at 8:22:38 PM UTC-5 Damien wrote:

> Thanks for the feedback both o' y'all. Guess it makes sense to be a bit 
> more specific than just drops/stem/levers/shifters.
>
> So, ideally
> Stem length - 70-80mm
> Bar width - 44 to 48 cm
> Bar end shifters would be preferable. Index would be great, but am 
> certainly open to friction
> Aero brake levers
> Fully wrapped is cool, but certainly not necessary.
>
> Anyways, preferences above, but please feel free to let me know what you 
> have, since I'm open to other set ups.
>

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[RBW] Re: WTB: Drop Bar/Stem/Brake/Shifter set up

2021-01-01 Thread Paul Brodek
Are you looking for this fully built/taped? 
Bar-mounted shifters, so either bar-end or stem shifters?
Friction/indexed shifting?
Stem length/height?
Bar width/bend?
Brake levers aero/non-aero?

And a +1 to Kainalu, Happy Year to everybody!

Paul Brodek
Hillsdale, NJ USA

On Thursday, December 31, 2020 at 5:06:36 PM UTC-5 Damien wrote:

> Hey all,
>
> As the title suggests, I'm looking to see if anyone has a drop bar, stem, 
> shifter, and brake lever set up they are looking to rid themselves of. Let 
> me know what you have! I'm looking to switch from my current Albatross set 
> up on the ol' Sam.
>
> Thanks all!
>

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Re: [RBW] Anyone else a paranoid mechanic?

2020-12-17 Thread Paul Brodek
Hey now, this is truly schmart. Crooked = not snug. 

Paul Brodek
Hillsdale, NJ USA

On Thursday, December 17, 2020 at 9:25:49 AM UTC-5 Eric Daume wrote:

> I leave my bars noticeably crooked when the bike is in the stand so I know 
> I will have to straighten and tighten them before my test ride. 
>
> Eric
>
>
> On Wednesday, December 16, 2020, Joe Bernard  wrote:
>
>> Oh yes, I worry. Especially because - after decades of doing this stuff - 
>> I still have a terrible habit of snugging the bars in the stand and telling 
>> myself I'll get back to that bolt later to make sure it's tight. I always 
>> forget and my first ride is always met with the bars slipping in the first 
>> few feet. I can't trust my mechanic!
>>
>> Joe Bernard 
>>
>> On Wednesday, December 16, 2020 at 7:02:53 AM UTC-8 bjmi...@gmail.com 
>> wrote:
>>
>>> Hey Laing!
>>> Thanks for that write up! Most of those are the tips/things I definitely 
>>> did after my downhill blowout. I'll likely try the max PSI trick and 
>>> inspect the raised line again. I think I got it nailed and figured out, I 
>>> just wondered if anyone who checks the boxes and learns from their mistakes 
>>> still has that creeping feeling that it's all going to fall apart. 
>>>
>>> Thanks again!
>>> Ben
>>>
>>> On Wed, Dec 16, 2020 at 8:33 AM lconley  wrote:
>>>
>>>> There are two things.
>>>> One. Push the entire tire, both sides, to the center of the rim off of 
>>>> the bead seat before inflating so that you can see that there is no tube 
>>>> under the tire.
>>>> Two. inflate the tire in stages - 1st inflate the tire to 15-20 PSIG 
>>>> and then inspect the tire to rim interface. On all tires, there is a 
>>>> molded-in, small, raised line around the tire just above the tire-rim 
>>>> interface. At low pressures, this may still be below the rim, if there are 
>>>> any places where this line is a noticeable distance from the rim, it may 
>>>> indicate a problem - deflate, inspect, adjust. As you raise the pressure 
>>>> in 
>>>> stages the line should eventually even out at a constant distance from the 
>>>> rim as it seats on the rim - you can pull on the tire at the low and 
>>>> intermediate pressures to help it out. Some tires seat immediately, some 
>>>> require a lot of fiddling. It may require going to the tire maximum 
>>>> pressure to seat the tire. Then you can release pressure as required. This 
>>>> is generally only required for new tires, they kind of take a set as they 
>>>> break in and stretch.
>>>>
>>>> Laing
>>>> Still uses tubes
>>>>
>>>> On Wednesday, December 16, 2020 at 9:11:36 AM UTC-5 bjmi...@gmail.com 
>>>> wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> Hey all!
>>>>> I just threw on Schwalbe Marathon Winter tires (700x40) on the 
>>>>> Atlantis. Sad to see the Shikoros all deflated and and sitting in the 
>>>>> corner, but it was either they take a timeout or I don't ride to work. 
>>>>> Easy 
>>>>> choice.
>>>>>
>>>>> So I've been riding as an adult over a year now and started with an 
>>>>> affordable Linus with 28mm tires and promptly got a flat my third or 
>>>>> fourth 
>>>>> time out on it. I took the wheel over, unseated the bead, got the tube 
>>>>> out, 
>>>>> patched it, put it back in, reseated the bead, yadda yadda yadda, BOOM. 
>>>>> No 
>>>>> issue. Had another flat this last summer and had to repair it while on 
>>>>> the 
>>>>> way home from picking up a crowler of beer...very stressful, almost lost 
>>>>> my 
>>>>> wrench, but got it done, not a problem! 
>>>>>
>>>>> Later this last summer as piece-by-piece Riv'd up my Linus, I wen to 
>>>>> 35mm tires. Took off the old ones, did all the steps, and as I was 
>>>>> pumping 
>>>>> up the front tire, the tube blew out (some tube was under the 
>>>>> bead...DOH!). 
>>>>> So I laughed it off, changed the tube, did the rear wheel, and went out 
>>>>> for 
>>>>> a ride. All was going well, then on a fast descent, when I started 
>>>>> breaking 
>>>>> I heard an awful thud-thud-thud-thud that was getting louder and BANG! I 
>>&

Re: [RBW] FS: Platforms A-Poppin'! VP001 - Vice - fyxation Mesa MP - Wellgo MG1

2020-12-10 Thread Paul Brodek
Thanks to all for the interest, both pair of VP pedals are spoken for.

Paul Brodek
Hillsdale, NJ USA

On Thursday, December 10, 2020 at 8:00:32 AM UTC-5 Matt H wrote:

> Hey Paul, I'll take the green VP001s if available.
>
> Thanks,
> Matt
>
> On Wed, Dec 9, 2020 at 11:10 PM Paul Brodek  wrote:
>
>> Got way too many pinned platforms hanging about. All fairly clean, good 
>> bearings, no bad scuffs/scrapes/bashes/shmashes/shmushes. I'll make sure 
>> each pair has pedal washers. 
>>
>> Pricing includes shipping conti USA; payment via paypal G/S or With 
>> Protection. What I've got is:
>>
>> VP001/Green/1pr: $40
>> VP Vice/Black/1pr: $40
>> fyxation Mesa MP/Black/2pr: $40/pr
>> Wellgo MG1/Orange/1pr: $30
>> Wellgo MG1/Yellow/1pr: $30
>>
>> The fyxation are wide, have plastic bodies but goodly shin-shearing metal 
>> pins. They're the widest out of this batch.
>>
>> More close-up pix on flickr:
>> https://flic.kr/s/aHsk4hRDyg
>>
>> Paul Brodek
>> Hillsdale, NJ USA
>>
>> [image: 50700416468_c423d6a93b_c.jpg]
>> [image: 50700416578_68396a84ef_c.jpg]
>> [image: 50701242322_d1c80643ba_c.jpg]
>> [image: 50700416818_8e6ee14709_c.jpg]
>>
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Re: [RBW] Re: The “Is It Normal Or Is It Broken” New Bike Game!

2020-12-07 Thread Paul Brodek
Self-confession, words are easy.

DAISNAID (Do As I Say, Not As I Do) Dep't: Went for a ride recently on a 
bike that had been in the stand the night before. Came to a corner, 
squeezed my brake levers, and the drop bar, er, dropped...rotated 
down/forward 15-deg or so. Fortunately it was a slow-down, no-obstacle 
move, so not braking very well didn't cause any issues. Tightened the bar 
bolt, all good. Then a mile or two later, I twisted around to double-check 
for traffic behind and...the saddle/post rotated. So, I guess that pre-ride 
check oughta also include making sure the seatpost don't swivel.

Physician, heal thyself! 

Paul Brodek
Hillsdale, NJ USA

On Monday, December 7, 2020 at 2:53:52 PM UTC-5 Joe Bernard wrote:

> I'm not very good about the safety checks, either, and need to start doing 
> the routine Paul laid out. Racks and fenders are especially prone to their 
> bolts working loose, and I always find out after they've rattled for a week 
> while wondering "What IS that??" For a guy with a workstand and a full 
> bicycle tool kit you'd think I'd be better at this! 
>
> Joe "I'll do it later" Bernard
>
> On Monday, December 7, 2020 at 6:58:37 AM UTC-8 Bicycle Belle Ding Ding! 
> wrote:
>
>> Paul, this is a great post, and dead useful to me. Something obvious you 
>> said that I hadn’t thought about: I’m putting a lot of miles on only 2 
>> bikes and it means quicker wear, etc. I expect consistency because my 
>> Rivendells always give it, and I forget to consider wear until things get 
>> way out of whack. (Remember that time I discovered I’d worn my tires down 
>> to the fabric?) 
>>
>> The practical tips are very helpful, and I’ll have to find a way to save 
>> them and have them accessible. I’ve not been wonderful about safety checks 
>> in the past. Years ago, I took my Betty Foy to the shop for something, and 
>> while I was there, I said, “When I turn my handlebars sharply, there’s a 
>> clunk.” It had been that way for weeks; I didn’t think it was a big deal, 
>> just irritating. The mechanic was surprised to find a LOOSE HEADSET, and 
>> she told me how serious it was. I was lucky, because in those days I was 
>> the boys’ packhorse for school, carried a huge front load, and we had a 
>> long and dangerous descent. 🙄
>>
>> Thanks for taking the time to send this!
>> Leah
>>
>> Sent from my iPad
>>
>> On Dec 6, 2020, at 7:38 PM, Paul Brodek  wrote:
>>
>> 
>>
>> None of this is intuitive, so you shouldn't feel bad about not knowing 
>> stuff. The more you learn, the less dependent you'll be on mechanics. Most 
>> of the mission-critical stuff on a bicycle is right there to see, hear and 
>> feel, so observation and inquisitiveness go a long way. Most diagnostics 
>> are easier than you think, but some are always stupidly complex. Who'd 
>> think a clunk you think you feel in the pedal is a creaky stem, or your 
>> shoelace tip, or shoe?
>>
>> A workstand will be a huge help. Lifting your bike up/in/down will build 
>> muscle and character.
>>
>> With all that homily stuff outta the way, to hopefully give you a little 
>> encouragement, I've got maybe two concrete-ish thoughts to offer.
>>
>> You're doing a lot of mileage, very commendable, on just a couple bikes. 
>> That means things will wear quicker, go out of adjustment, maybe loosen up 
>> and rattle. Getting into a regular habit of a very quick check before you 
>> ride is a good thing. Pick up the bike an inch or two and drop it a couple 
>> of times---how does it sound? Everything tight, or some stuff rattling? 
>> Spin the wheels, watch the rim at the brake shoes. Rims true, no rubbing?. 
>> How do the tire treads/sidewalls look? Tire pressure OK? Lock the front 
>> brake and rock the bike a little---headset tight? Push down hard on the 
>> bars to make sure it's not slipping. Trap the front wheel between your legs 
>> and give the bars/stem a little twist---shouldn't turn. Squeeze/release the 
>> brake levers, make sure everything feels right. Then head out the door.  
>>
>> Once every few rides, once/wk, coupla weeks, whatevs, regularly and 
>> relatively frequently also checking all the nuts/bolts is also a good 
>> thing.  
>>
>> I get the impression that both of your bikes have relatively complex/full 
>> builds. Fenders, racks, dynamos, I dunno what else. One of the benefits of 
>> multiple bikes is potentially setting one up a little simpler, so there's 
>> less maintenance required, less to go wrong. If you don't have a lot o

Re: [RBW] Re: The “Is It Normal Or Is It Broken” New Bike Game!

2020-12-06 Thread Paul Brodek

None of this is intuitive, so you shouldn't feel bad about not knowing 
stuff. The more you learn, the less dependent you'll be on mechanics. Most 
of the mission-critical stuff on a bicycle is right there to see, hear and 
feel, so observation and inquisitiveness go a long way. Most diagnostics 
are easier than you think, but some are always stupidly complex. Who'd 
think a clunk you think you feel in the pedal is a creaky stem, or your 
shoelace tip, or shoe?

A workstand will be a huge help. Lifting your bike up/in/down will build 
muscle and character.

With all that homily stuff outta the way, to hopefully give you a little 
encouragement, I've got maybe two concrete-ish thoughts to offer.

You're doing a lot of mileage, very commendable, on just a couple bikes. 
That means things will wear quicker, go out of adjustment, maybe loosen up 
and rattle. Getting into a regular habit of a very quick check before you 
ride is a good thing. Pick up the bike an inch or two and drop it a couple 
of times---how does it sound? Everything tight, or some stuff rattling? 
Spin the wheels, watch the rim at the brake shoes. Rims true, no rubbing?. 
How do the tire treads/sidewalls look? Tire pressure OK? Lock the front 
brake and rock the bike a little---headset tight? Push down hard on the 
bars to make sure it's not slipping. Trap the front wheel between your legs 
and give the bars/stem a little twist---shouldn't turn. Squeeze/release the 
brake levers, make sure everything feels right. Then head out the door.  

Once every few rides, once/wk, coupla weeks, whatevs, regularly and 
relatively frequently also checking all the nuts/bolts is also a good 
thing.  

I get the impression that both of your bikes have relatively complex/full 
builds. Fenders, racks, dynamos, I dunno what else. One of the benefits of 
multiple bikes is potentially setting one up a little simpler, so there's 
less maintenance required, less to go wrong. If you don't have a lot of 
rain, mud, etc, maybe one bike with fenders and one without? Tires can't 
rub fenders, and fenders can't come loose, if you ain't got fenders. This 
may not be practical in Las Vegas, where you ride, etc, and aesthetics also 
come into play, but it may be worth thinking about. 

When I only had one bike, it had to do everything. Once I had two, one had 
the fenders/racks/etc for commuting/hauling/raining, the other was 
less-encumbered as the go-fast bike. Even though I didn't/couldn't go fast. 
I could still commute on it in nice weather, just couldn't take as much 
stuff with me. The go-fast needed a lot less attention, less muss, less 
fuss. That's maybe not the current Riv ideal, and nobody who thinks a 
well-appointed bike should have all the stuff is wrong, because, it's like, 
their opinion, man. But I like the simplicity of also having one without a 
lot of stuff. 

Paul Brodek
Hillsdale, NJ USA


On Sunday, December 6, 2020 at 8:12:41 PM UTC-5 Joe Bernard wrote:

> Hehe, 2019 was the year I discovered I have arthritis at the base of my 
> thumbs. I could tell because every ride I could hear a noise, it was me 
> shouting "Ouch!"
>
>
>
> On Sunday, December 6, 2020 at 4:54:27 PM UTC-8 Brady Smith wrote:
>
>>
>> I concur with all the advice about getting your own work stand. I bought 
>> a basic Park Tool stand a few years ago and went from relying on the shop 
>> for everything to doing everything but wheel builds on my own. Entirely 
>> worth it.
>>
>> I’m also a stickler for noises. A few weeks ago I started up my long 
>> local climb and heard an audible click every time I turned the pedals. I 
>> spent a few hundred yards switching between pedaling and not pedaling, 
>> remaining seated and getting out of the saddle, only to locate the source 
>> of the problem—a creaky left knee. 2020 is officially the year I’ve started 
>> to feel old.
>> On Sunday, December 6, 2020 at 6:37:15 PM UTC-5 Joe Bernard wrote:
>>
>>> I'm just confessing I DIDN'T check. Because Joe Bernard, Master Mechanic 
>>> Who Knows All The Things, is kinda not smart! 🙃 
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> On Sunday, December 6, 2020 at 3:31:46 PM UTC-8 Bicycle Belle Ding Ding! 
>>> wrote:
>>>
>>>> Guys, it’s NOT it. I know this because I use to cause it with my shoe 
>>>> too close to the where the pedal connected to the crank on my old 
>>>> Clementine, you know I checked. But that’s not it on The Rowdy Platypus. 
>>>>
>>>> Sent from my iPad
>>>>
>>>> On Dec 6, 2020, at 3:28 PM, Joe Bernard  wrote:
>>>>
>>>> Dude, that's a good call. I've had the "rubbing clothes on things" 
>>>&

[RBW] Re: ISO: 1" quill stem with removable faceplate 110mm

2020-12-06 Thread Paul Brodek
Assuming 1" is for the steer tube, handlebar clamp size/diameter is.? 
Probably also 25.4mm if an MB-4? 

How much horizontal rise do you need for the bars? Salsa quill stems tend 
to have very short quills, can't get bars up very high.

Do you care if the horizontal part is horizontal to the ground ("7") or 
rising?

The Salsa stems with removable faceplates were called S.U.L. iirc, sold 
after QBP bought Salsa, and there was a recall. If you're looking at one, 
make sure it wasn't one subject to recall.

Most of the vintage-ish 1" quills with removable faceplates I'm familiar 
with are going to be road-ish VO/Soma/Blue Lug/etc. That's where I'd start 
looking, anyway.

There were some nice Nitto 1" quill/rem-fp stems, with medium-short quills, 
slight uprise, only two bolts. I've used 'em without problem, but some 
folks like Bulgie do not like 2-bolt stems. 2-bolt means zero insurance if 
one bolt fails, where 4-bolt stems give you a shot at keeping the bars 
attached if one bolt fails. Since you're talking about a "camping rig," 
4-bolt likely a better idea?  

Paul Brodek
Hillsdale, NJ USA

On Sunday, December 6, 2020 at 8:37:27 PM UTC-5 Lucky wrote:

> In my most recent attempt to find a bike satisfactory to my wife for a 
> camping rig, I picked up a nice MB-4 today that needs a longer stem with a 
> removable faceplate. Would prefer something "period" appearing, if 
> possible. Anyone have a Salsa or similar, by chance? Please e-mail me 
> directly. Thanks! 

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[RBW] Re: FS: Waterford RS-33 62x58.5 Road-Sport Frameset

2020-11-24 Thread Paul Brodek
 Found a home for this, thanks for all the interest!

Paul Brodek
Hillsdale, NJ USA


On Thursday, November 19, 2020 at 12:16:15 PM UTC-5 Paul Brodek wrote:

> Still looking for a new home, price drop for potential adopters:
> $675 shipped conti USA, $625 pickup NYC
>
> Paul Brodek
> Hillsdale, NJ USA
>
>
> On Saturday, November 14, 2020 at 11:08:58 PM UTC-5 Paul Brodek wrote:
>
>> Found the frame specs/diagram for this. Second image is just the frame 
>> diagram enlarged for tired eyes.
>>
>> Paul Brodek
>> Hillsdale, NJ USA
>>
>> [image: 50603524307_61fc73e959_c.jpg][image: 
>> 50603401611_ea1598098a_c.jpg]
>> On Thursday, November 12, 2020 at 3:17:48 PM UTC-5 Paul Brodek wrote:
>>
>>> Waterford RS-33 62x58.5 Frameset, w/W'ford Fork: $725 shipped conti USA, 
>>> $675 pickup NYC metro on Jersey side of Hudson; paypal goods/services 
>>> payment
>>>
>>> Though this isn't exactly in the ibob/RBW wheelhouse, it is fully steel, 
>>> and I know there are some folks here whose interest in iron extends towards 
>>> the bleeding edge.
>>>
>>> The 33-series uses oversized shaped/profiled True Temper S3 tubing, 
>>> making for a very light and responsive steel frame. W'ford currently 
>>> showcases the R-33 as a high-performance race bike, but the RS-33 
>>> designation means this was custom-built for road-sport use, so the 
>>> wheelbase is a little longer, angles likely a little slacker, and most 
>>> importantly, it'll fit 30mm actual-width 700c tires under 39-49mm calipers.
>>>
>>> It's also got a slightly sloping top tube and tall head tube, so it's 
>>> easier getting closer to an unracer handlebar height without pushing 
>>> standover higher.
>>>
>>> The frame was built in '05 for a shop employee who quit without paying 
>>> for it. It then sat in the shop till I got it in '10 or so. It came with an 
>>> Alpha-Q fork, but I wanted more clearance up front, and steel i/o carbon, 
>>> so I had W'ford build me a matching steel fork.
>>>
>>> The employee who bailed was named Colby, so we're treated with his 
>>> nom-de-huh "Colbzilla" on the top tube. 
>>>
>>> So you're looking at an older, but near-new frameset, built with what's 
>>> still cutting-edge steel technology, but with some "classic" features. 
>>> Meaning rim brakes, dt shifter bosses, no discs, no thru-axles, no weird bb 
>>> standard. Crikeys, it's even got a pump peg!
>>>
>>> It's a bit tall/long for me, 62cm c-c st x 58.5cm c-c tt. Somehow the 
>>> classic "fistful of post" works visually for me better on something like a 
>>> '72 Hetchins than a modern wundersteel frame. Between the sizing and me 
>>> kinda not feeling worthy of what the frame can do, it was one of my 
>>> least-ridden steeds, not more than 1k miles since I got it.
>>>
>>> We had our sayonara ride recently, and maybe it was just that last 
>>> break-up sex thing, but it was a great ride. Fast, solid, responsive, 
>>> nothing noodly, but with 30mm tires it was nothing near bone-shaking, 
>>> either. Note that the bb drop is a substantial 80mm, so there's a reason it 
>>> feels so grounded.
>>>
>>> No dents, dings, scrapes or other impact damage. There is some 
>>> chippendale action at some of the component contact points, visible in the 
>>> pix, notably the drive-side bb shell outer edge, top of the seat lug and 
>>> the rear brake bridge.
>>>
>>> It was at 17.5lbs in its final build, shown below, with the only carbon 
>>> being the SRAM Red crankset, a Specialized carbon-railed Toupe, and I guess 
>>> the Red brifter lever blades. That was a 1x build, so it'd be closer to 
>>> 18lbs with a double/fder. 
>>>
>>> Current pricing on R-33 frames, with a matching W'ford steel fork, would 
>>> be close to $3k. The W'ford builds are all custom, so you could spec an 
>>> RS-33 build if you wanted new. 
>>>
>>> I have a copy of the W'ford Frame Detail sheet, which I'll attach. The 
>>> angles/dims below are mine, with the official dims from W'ford in (). I've 
>>> also added some standover actual dims to account for the slightly sloping 
>>> top tube.
>>>
>>> And though the last thing I want is to over-complicate and add drama, 
>>> it's worth noting that the Frame 

[RBW] Re: FS: Waterford RS-33 62x58.5 Road-Sport Frameset

2020-11-19 Thread Paul Brodek
 Still looking for a new home, price drop for potential adopters:
$675 shipped conti USA, $625 pickup NYC

Paul Brodek
Hillsdale, NJ USA


On Saturday, November 14, 2020 at 11:08:58 PM UTC-5 Paul Brodek wrote:

> Found the frame specs/diagram for this. Second image is just the frame 
> diagram enlarged for tired eyes.
>
> Paul Brodek
> Hillsdale, NJ USA
>
> [image: 50603524307_61fc73e959_c.jpg][image: 50603401611_ea1598098a_c.jpg]
> On Thursday, November 12, 2020 at 3:17:48 PM UTC-5 Paul Brodek wrote:
>
>> Waterford RS-33 62x58.5 Frameset, w/W'ford Fork: $725 shipped conti USA, 
>> $675 pickup NYC metro on Jersey side of Hudson; paypal goods/services 
>> payment
>>
>> Though this isn't exactly in the ibob/RBW wheelhouse, it is fully steel, 
>> and I know there are some folks here whose interest in iron extends towards 
>> the bleeding edge.
>>
>> The 33-series uses oversized shaped/profiled True Temper S3 tubing, 
>> making for a very light and responsive steel frame. W'ford currently 
>> showcases the R-33 as a high-performance race bike, but the RS-33 
>> designation means this was custom-built for road-sport use, so the 
>> wheelbase is a little longer, angles likely a little slacker, and most 
>> importantly, it'll fit 30mm actual-width 700c tires under 39-49mm calipers.
>>
>> It's also got a slightly sloping top tube and tall head tube, so it's 
>> easier getting closer to an unracer handlebar height without pushing 
>> standover higher.
>>
>> The frame was built in '05 for a shop employee who quit without paying 
>> for it. It then sat in the shop till I got it in '10 or so. It came with an 
>> Alpha-Q fork, but I wanted more clearance up front, and steel i/o carbon, 
>> so I had W'ford build me a matching steel fork.
>>
>> The employee who bailed was named Colby, so we're treated with his 
>> nom-de-huh "Colbzilla" on the top tube. 
>>
>> So you're looking at an older, but near-new frameset, built with what's 
>> still cutting-edge steel technology, but with some "classic" features. 
>> Meaning rim brakes, dt shifter bosses, no discs, no thru-axles, no weird bb 
>> standard. Crikeys, it's even got a pump peg!
>>
>> It's a bit tall/long for me, 62cm c-c st x 58.5cm c-c tt. Somehow the 
>> classic "fistful of post" works visually for me better on something like a 
>> '72 Hetchins than a modern wundersteel frame. Between the sizing and me 
>> kinda not feeling worthy of what the frame can do, it was one of my 
>> least-ridden steeds, not more than 1k miles since I got it.
>>
>> We had our sayonara ride recently, and maybe it was just that last 
>> break-up sex thing, but it was a great ride. Fast, solid, responsive, 
>> nothing noodly, but with 30mm tires it was nothing near bone-shaking, 
>> either. Note that the bb drop is a substantial 80mm, so there's a reason it 
>> feels so grounded.
>>
>> No dents, dings, scrapes or other impact damage. There is some 
>> chippendale action at some of the component contact points, visible in the 
>> pix, notably the drive-side bb shell outer edge, top of the seat lug and 
>> the rear brake bridge.
>>
>> It was at 17.5lbs in its final build, shown below, with the only carbon 
>> being the SRAM Red crankset, a Specialized carbon-railed Toupe, and I guess 
>> the Red brifter lever blades. That was a 1x build, so it'd be closer to 
>> 18lbs with a double/fder. 
>>
>> Current pricing on R-33 frames, with a matching W'ford steel fork, would 
>> be close to $3k. The W'ford builds are all custom, so you could spec an 
>> RS-33 build if you wanted new. 
>>
>> I have a copy of the W'ford Frame Detail sheet, which I'll attach. The 
>> angles/dims below are mine, with the official dims from W'ford in (). I've 
>> also added some standover actual dims to account for the slightly sloping 
>> top tube.
>>
>> And though the last thing I want is to over-complicate and add drama, 
>> it's worth noting that the Frame Details specify no tt slope and clearance 
>> for 700x25c tires. But the tt clearly slopes, and the frame clearly fits 
>> wider tires. The tt slope seems like too big a detail to miss, all the tube 
>> cuts/miters would change going from level to slope, so I can only assume 
>> the buyer changed that but the detail sheet didn't get updated. Not sure 
>> what to think about the tire clearance, which is mostly having enough brake 
>> shoe drop for crown/bridge clearance

[RBW] Re: PSA: Soma Supple Vitesse SL Tires @ Somafab On Sale for $30ea?!

2020-11-18 Thread Paul Brodek
They kinda grow on ya.

PB

On Tuesday, November 17, 2020 at 8:00:22 PM UTC-5 Dave Grossman wrote:

> Ha!  I've seen that Kelly!
>
> On Tuesday, November 17, 2020 at 2:39:28 PM UTC-6 Paul Brodek wrote:
>
>> Should be pretty close. Just aired up a blk/tan 38 to about 70psi on a 
>> 25mm-outer Ardennes+, 38.21mm. So sez my digicaliper, appending the 
>> tenths/hundreds just to annoy Bulgie. If Bulgie's here, can't keep track of 
>> that kid.
>>
>> Paul Brodek
>> Hillsdale, NJ USA
>>
>> On Tuesday, November 17, 2020 at 1:18:51 PM UTC-5 J Schwartz wrote:
>>
>>> Thanks
>>> So do you find the 38's true to measurement on those HED rims?
>>>
>>> On Tuesday, November 17, 2020 at 12:29:34 PM UTC-5 Paul Brodek wrote:
>>>
>>>> Oh yeah, sorry I didn't mention that, they are non-TC. I suspect maybe 
>>>> that's why they're blowing 'em out, to make room for newer TC versions? I 
>>>> have zero knowledge/insider-poop on that, it's just the only thing that 
>>>> makes sense to me re: this sale.
>>>>
>>>> Might also be worth mentioning that IME these tires are what I'd call 
>>>> slightly undersized, meaning I generally don't get the labeled width until 
>>>> they're on wider modern rims, like 23-25mm outer width. HED 
>>>> Belgium/Ardennes C2/+, H+Sons Archetype mostly for me.
>>>>
>>>> The all-black can work fine depending on the rest of the bike, and I 
>>>> like not having to worry about tan sidewalls getting funky. They are not 
>>>> the tire for you if you're looking for that understated tiny-label look. 
>>>> They ride real nice.
>>>>
>>>> Paul Brodek
>>>> Hillsdale, NJ USA
>>>>
>>>> [image: 50095493146_d38352ece9_c.jpg][image: 
>>>> 50135056208_3f1816cf62_c.jpg]
>>>>
>>>> On Tuesday, November 17, 2020 at 12:12:58 PM UTC-5 J Schwartz wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> Also , I don't think these are Tubeless compatible 
>>>>>
>>>>> On Tuesday, November 17, 2020 at 12:03:02 PM UTC-5 J Schwartz wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>> Thanks Paul, 
>>>>>> Just picked up some black sidewall 700x38's for the Canti-Rom I'm 
>>>>>> slowly building 
>>>>>> On Tuesday, November 17, 2020 at 11:50:29 AM UTC-5 Sam Kling wrote:
>>>>>>
>>>>>>> The 23mm EX's are only $15 each, if anyone around here runs 23s.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> On Tuesday, November 17, 2020 at 9:55:54 AM UTC-6 bjmi...@gmail.com 
>>>>>>> wrote:
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> That is a SMOKING hot deal. I need puncture protection riding on 
>>>>>>>> city streets most of the time, but if they had black/tan in 700x42, 
>>>>>>>> I'd be 
>>>>>>>> tempted to get a pair just to try them out. I do use the Shikoro, 
>>>>>>>> which to 
>>>>>>>> me are basically a heavy-armored SV. 
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> Thanks for the heads up, though!
>>>>>>>> Ben
>>>>>>>> On Monday, November 16, 2020 at 11:14:40 PM UTC-6 Paul Brodek wrote:
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> I am completely overloaded on tires, but figured y'all might want 
>>>>>>>>> to know that Soma looks to be blowing out SV Superlight tires at the 
>>>>>>>>> low-low price of only $29.99ea. That's ridiculously cheap for such a 
>>>>>>>>> nice 
>>>>>>>>> tire IMHO.
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> Only 28/33 are available in black/tan, most all other sizes in 
>>>>>>>>> stock in blk/blk. 
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> I've got no financial/etc connection other than having a metric 
>>>>>>>>> ton of SV tires in-house, bought at retail. I'm a super-fan.
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> Seems curious to me, though, why blow out expensive tires when 
>>>>>>>>> there seems to be a tire shortage, esp at the dealer level? Could 
>>>>>>>>> they be 
>>>>>>>>> that over-loaded? New versions on the way/in-house so they want to 
>>>>>>>>> clear 
>>>>>>>>> out the old stock? [Note I have absolutely zero knowledge about that, 
>>>>>>>>> just 
>>>>>>>>> trying to rationalize in my own brain why they're blowing these out, 
>>>>>>>>> and 
>>>>>>>>> priced so cheaply, in the midst of rubber shortages].
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> I might have missed a blog post from them or whatevs, but I'm left 
>>>>>>>>> with a whole of "Huh?" in my cranium.
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> Paul "Huh?" Brodek
>>>>>>>>> Hillsdale, NJ USA
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>

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[RBW] Re: PSA: Soma Supple Vitesse SL Tires @ Somafab On Sale for $30ea?!

2020-11-17 Thread Paul Brodek
Should be pretty close. Just aired up a blk/tan 38 to about 70psi on a 
25mm-outer Ardennes+, 38.21mm. So sez my digicaliper, appending the 
tenths/hundreds just to annoy Bulgie. If Bulgie's here, can't keep track of 
that kid.

Paul Brodek
Hillsdale, NJ USA

On Tuesday, November 17, 2020 at 1:18:51 PM UTC-5 J Schwartz wrote:

> Thanks
> So do you find the 38's true to measurement on those HED rims?
>
> On Tuesday, November 17, 2020 at 12:29:34 PM UTC-5 Paul Brodek wrote:
>
>> Oh yeah, sorry I didn't mention that, they are non-TC. I suspect maybe 
>> that's why they're blowing 'em out, to make room for newer TC versions? I 
>> have zero knowledge/insider-poop on that, it's just the only thing that 
>> makes sense to me re: this sale.
>>
>> Might also be worth mentioning that IME these tires are what I'd call 
>> slightly undersized, meaning I generally don't get the labeled width until 
>> they're on wider modern rims, like 23-25mm outer width. HED 
>> Belgium/Ardennes C2/+, H+Sons Archetype mostly for me.
>>
>> The all-black can work fine depending on the rest of the bike, and I like 
>> not having to worry about tan sidewalls getting funky. They are not the 
>> tire for you if you're looking for that understated tiny-label look. They 
>> ride real nice.
>>
>> Paul Brodek
>> Hillsdale, NJ USA
>>
>> [image: 50095493146_d38352ece9_c.jpg][image: 
>> 50135056208_3f1816cf62_c.jpg]
>>
>> On Tuesday, November 17, 2020 at 12:12:58 PM UTC-5 J Schwartz wrote:
>>
>>> Also , I don't think these are Tubeless compatible 
>>>
>>> On Tuesday, November 17, 2020 at 12:03:02 PM UTC-5 J Schwartz wrote:
>>>
>>>> Thanks Paul, 
>>>> Just picked up some black sidewall 700x38's for the Canti-Rom I'm 
>>>> slowly building 
>>>> On Tuesday, November 17, 2020 at 11:50:29 AM UTC-5 Sam Kling wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> The 23mm EX's are only $15 each, if anyone around here runs 23s.
>>>>>
>>>>> On Tuesday, November 17, 2020 at 9:55:54 AM UTC-6 bjmi...@gmail.com 
>>>>> wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>> That is a SMOKING hot deal. I need puncture protection riding on city 
>>>>>> streets most of the time, but if they had black/tan in 700x42, I'd be 
>>>>>> tempted to get a pair just to try them out. I do use the Shikoro, which 
>>>>>> to 
>>>>>> me are basically a heavy-armored SV. 
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Thanks for the heads up, though!
>>>>>> Ben
>>>>>> On Monday, November 16, 2020 at 11:14:40 PM UTC-6 Paul Brodek wrote:
>>>>>>
>>>>>>> I am completely overloaded on tires, but figured y'all might want to 
>>>>>>> know that Soma looks to be blowing out SV Superlight tires at the 
>>>>>>> low-low 
>>>>>>> price of only $29.99ea. That's ridiculously cheap for such a nice tire 
>>>>>>> IMHO.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Only 28/33 are available in black/tan, most all other sizes in stock 
>>>>>>> in blk/blk. 
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> I've got no financial/etc connection other than having a metric ton 
>>>>>>> of SV tires in-house, bought at retail. I'm a super-fan.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Seems curious to me, though, why blow out expensive tires when there 
>>>>>>> seems to be a tire shortage, esp at the dealer level? Could they be 
>>>>>>> that 
>>>>>>> over-loaded? New versions on the way/in-house so they want to clear out 
>>>>>>> the 
>>>>>>> old stock? [Note I have absolutely zero knowledge about that, just 
>>>>>>> trying 
>>>>>>> to rationalize in my own brain why they're blowing these out, and 
>>>>>>> priced so 
>>>>>>> cheaply, in the midst of rubber shortages].
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> I might have missed a blog post from them or whatevs, but I'm left 
>>>>>>> with a whole of "Huh?" in my cranium.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Paul "Huh?" Brodek
>>>>>>> Hillsdale, NJ USA
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>

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[RBW] PSA: Soma Supple Vitesse SL Tires @ Somafab On Sale for $30ea?!

2020-11-16 Thread Paul Brodek
 I am completely overloaded on tires, but figured y'all might want to know 
that Soma looks to be blowing out SV Superlight tires at the low-low price 
of only $29.99ea. That's ridiculously cheap for such a nice tire IMHO.

Only 28/33 are available in black/tan, most all other sizes in stock in 
blk/blk. 

I've got no financial/etc connection other than having a metric ton of SV 
tires in-house, bought at retail. I'm a super-fan.

Seems curious to me, though, why blow out expensive tires when there seems 
to be a tire shortage, esp at the dealer level? Could they be that 
over-loaded? New versions on the way/in-house so they want to clear out the 
old stock? [Note I have absolutely zero knowledge about that, just trying 
to rationalize in my own brain why they're blowing these out, and priced so 
cheaply, in the midst of rubber shortages].

I might have missed a blog post from them or whatevs, but I'm left with a 
whole of "Huh?" in my cranium.

Paul "Huh?" Brodek
Hillsdale, NJ USA

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[RBW] Re: Rivendell Custom FS

2020-11-11 Thread Paul Brodek
Golly gee willikers, that background looks very familiar to me, maybe some 
of the parts as well.

Could it be the same background that was behind my 
bank-shot/catch-and-release JPW?

Steve puts together some handsome machines. Extra points for the green Paul 
calipers.

GLWS!

Paul Brodek
Hillsdale, NJ USA

On Wednesday, November 11, 2020 at 10:59:45 AM UTC-5, S. Greco wrote:
>
> Bump for price drops
>
> Frame w/ Rack :
>
> Rivendell Custom Frame / Fork / Chris King HS / Phil Wood BB
>
> Nitto Campee Front Rack (includes pannier supports)
>
> $1650
>
>
> Frame w/ Rack & Paul Comp Bits :
>
> Rivendell Custom Frame / Fork / Chris King HS / Phil Wood BB
>
> Nitto Campee Front Rack (includes pannier supports)
>
> Paul Component Racer M (green anodized)
>
> Paul Component Skewers (green anodized)
>
> $2350
> On Thursday, November 5, 2020 at 5:47:47 PM UTC-5 S. Greco wrote:
>
>> 2000s Curt Goodrich Rivendell Custom  / Joe Bell Paint
>>
>> 58.5TT x 58.5ST (61.5 CTT)
>>
>> More photos available HERE 
>> <https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1qKoih0TajEAef5QDEnOErgNiAAX1F2Un?usp=sharing>
>>
>> [image: DSCF4439.jpeg]
>>
>>
>> Frame w/ Rack :
>>
>> Rivendell Custom Frame / Fork / Chris King HS / Phil Wood BB
>>
>> Nitto Campee Front Rack (includes pannier supports)
>>
>> $1950
>>
>>
>> Frame w/ Rack & Paul Comp Bits :
>>
>> Rivendell Custom Frame / Fork / Chris King HS / Phil Wood BB
>>
>> Nitto Campee Front Rack (includes pannier supports)
>>
>> Paul Component Racer M (green anodized)
>>
>> Paul Component Skewers (green anodized)
>>
>> $2450
>>
>>
>>
>> I’ll include a used Nitto S65 post, mainly to protect the seat cluster 
>> lug during shipment.
>>
>> I'll also include a used Nitto Noodle / Technomic with cockpit for free 
>> if anyone is interested.
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: Bagapalooza Pt. Deux: Carradice SQR Slim/Tour Bags, w/SQR Blocks

2020-10-31 Thread Paul Brodek
Updates--- Tour bag and two Slim bags have sold, so only one Slim bag 
remains.

Thanks!

Paul Brodek
Hillsdale, NJ USA

On Saturday, October 31, 2020 at 3:59:25 PM UTC-4, Paul Brodek wrote:
>
> *Carradice Super C Tour SQR Saddlebag w/SQR mounting block: $85 shipped 
> conti USA; paypal G&S payment*
> (The one with side pockets - 16 litres; 18cm wide x 37cm high x 20cm deep)
> *Carradice Super C Slim SQR Saddlebag w/SQR mounting block: $75 shipped 
> conti USA; paypal G&S payment*
> (16 litres; 29cm wide x 36cm high x 15cm deep*)*
>
> Note that the photos show three Tour bags, I also have at least one, maybe 
> two Tour bags to move as well. I'll try to snap some pix today.
>
> Here's Carradice's page on the Tour and Slim bags, now designated as part 
> of their Super-C line. My bags appear identical, without the Super-C label:
> https://www.carradice.co.uk/bags/sad...per-c-sqr-slim 
> <https://www.carradice.co.uk/bags/saddle-packs-sqr-bags/super-c-sqr-slim>
> https://www.carradice.co.uk/bags/saddle-packs-sqr-bags/super-c-sqr-tour
>
> The 'dice SQR system uses a seatpost-mount block for quick-release 
> mounting of a couple large saddlebags. There is also an SQR rack/mount 
> available for attaching other bags, like the traditional 'dice transverse 
> saddlebags. The two SQR-specific bags have this rack/mount solidly riveted 
> to the bags.
>
> There's a pretty thorough feature on Mark Chandler's Gravelbike; I bought 
> one of his sample bags a few years back:
> https://www.gravelbike.com/first-imp...ur-saddlebags/ 
> <https://www.gravelbike.com/first-impressions-carradice-sqr-slim-tour-saddlebags/>
>
> The SQR bags clip on and off very quickly, and have both grab handles and 
> shoulder strap rings for off-bike carrying. They do require some distance 
> between the bag and rear tire, so they fit tall frames better.
>
> The bags are stable in use, with no significant wagging. There is a small 
> amount of movement, since the rack does have a small amount of room for 
> movement once clipped into the block. I never find it annoying, and the 
> bags are way more stable than the trad transverse bags, which are attached 
> to the saddle rails and seatpost with leather straps.
>
> I've had blocks on a number of bikes so that I could switch bags back and 
> forth, but of course I still wound up with multiple bags. Yet I also found 
> I didn't often need to carry that much gear, and since the bags seem to 
> have bred like rabbits, I'd like to move a few on.
>
> All bags show only light use, and include a mounting block with standard 
> clamps, meant for posts up to 32mm. The clamps have a tendency to twist and 
> rip if you overtighten them, so don't overtorque. I scrubbed 'em a little 
> the other day, so they look a little less tatty than the photos show. SQR 
> Tour shown on the '90 Fuquay/Serotta Custom 'cross bike.
>
> For reference, new SQR Tours/Slims from the UK are around $100/$110ea + 
> int'l shipping; Peter White has the Tour priced at $165. 
>
> Depending on your location, I might need to go FedEx Ground i/o USPS 
> Priority on these, since they don't fold/squash compactly at all, the boxes 
> will be mostly air, which can get pricey.
>
> Let me know if you have Qs, and thanks for lookin'!
>
>
> Paul Brodek
>
> Hillsdale, NJ USA
>
>
> [image: 16169559343_15035176ea_c.jpg]
>
> [image: 49205373031_2f556fa15e_c.jpg]
>
> [image: 49205372496_6a8d10b51a_c.jpg]
>
> [image: 49205587362_0ac2ec3604_c.jpg]
>

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Re: [RBW] Looking for silver ultegra 9s long cage RD

2020-10-30 Thread Paul Brodek
Gotcha, thanks for that, Joe. I guess with brifters or bar-cons it's not 
hard to use an inline cable tension adjuster, so the most pain would come 
with downtube shifters? Can you tap the rear of the der to thread in an 
adjusting barrel? That would likely detract from its Shadowy 
crach-worthiness, but there's not a lot of room in that short rear casing 
run for an adjuster.

Paul Brodek
Hillsdale, NJ USA

On Thursday, October 29, 2020 at 5:31:40 PM UTC-4, Joe Bernard wrote:
>
> It will in fact work and yes you will drive yourself crazy trying to keep 
> track of all this. Shadow is just a designation for an mtb mech that sits 
> flush so you (supposedly) won't crash it on rocks, Riv sold the XT772 
> Shadow for years. I've gotten them to index 9-speed bar-ends and 10-speed 
> Ultegra brifters. 
>
> Where things go sideways is 10-speed and up Dyna-Sis, if you find a rear 
> derailer like that it'll need its dedicated clicker. 
>
> On Thursday, October 29, 2020 at 1:57:35 PM UTC-7 Paul Brodek wrote:
>
>> So I'm kinda late to this party, and I don't think I have a complete 
>> understanding of relatively recent Shimano der/shifter compatibility, but I 
>> don't think the RD-M772 Shadow rder shown here will index properly with 
>> Shimano downtube shifters, and even in friction mode the dt shifter cable 
>> pull might be insufficient for the rder? Also the rder has no cable tension 
>> adjusting barrel, so you either have to do without, making indexing really 
>> difficult, or wire it up with an inline adjuster at the rear. I think 
>> Shadow-type rders are only compatible with Shimano ATB shifters, not with 
>> Shimano road shifters, dt or brifter.
>>
>> Microshift does make Shimano ATB-compatible bar-cons, I think, maybe in 
>> both 9spd and 10spd?
>>
>> I've got an RD-6500-GS, all-silver, with a coupla light scratches, and an 
>> RD-6700-GS, light-gray with a silver face, also light scratches. And a 
>> cleaner 105 RD-5701-GS, gray/silver like the 6700. You can PM me if you're 
>> interesting.
>>
>> FWIW the 6700-GS have been creeping up in price, I sold two very clean 
>> ones on ebay recently, one went for nearly $80 and the other just under 
>> $100.
>>
>> Paul Brodek
>> pcb at gmail dot com
>> Hillsdale, NJ USA
>>
>> On Monday, October 26, 2020 at 1:04:10 PM UTC-4, Sam Perez wrote:
>>
>>> Was hoping to keep this aesthetic but at the end of the day 
>>> functionality and fun will be what I'll remember at the end of the ride. 
>>>
>> On Mon, Oct 26, 2020, 8:33 AM John Blish  wrote:
>>>
>> I have 2 units, both XT M772, silver, nine-speed, new, never used or 
>>>> mounted, still in their bubble-wrap.
>>>>
>>>> Email me at jblish at gmail dot com. if you want one.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> On Mon, Oct 26, 2020 at 7:58 AM Pat Smith  wrote:
>>>>
>>> Look for the XT M772 RD as well, it's silver and 9s.
>>>>>
>>>>> -- 
>>>>> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google 
>>>>> Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group.
>>>>>
>>>> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send 
>>>>> an email to rbw-owne...@googlegroups.com.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>> To view this discussion on the web visit 
>>>>> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/rbw-owners-bunch/f07e9829-7dc4-4b37-907b-d1de95a5dc3fo%40googlegroups.com
>>>>> .
>>>>>
>>>> -- 
>>>> John Blish
>>>> Western Colorado USA
>>>>
>>>> -- 
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>>>> Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group.
>>>>
>>> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send 
>>>> an email to rbw-owne...@googlegroups.com.
>>>
>>>
>>>> To view this discussion on the web visit 
>>>> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/rbw-owners-bunch/CAPMNyVxa-5NDFJ43xtX%2Bu%3DL%2BwUTjzPPjHG-f3Q34MM1Wr-o%3Dng%40mail.gmail.com
>>>>  
>>>> <https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/rbw-owners-bunch/CAPMNyVxa-5NDFJ43xtX%2Bu%3DL%2BwUTjzPPjHG-f3Q34MM1Wr-o%3Dng%40mail.gmail.com?utm_medium=email&utm_source=footer>
>>>> .
>>>>
>>>

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Re: [RBW] Looking for silver ultegra 9s long cage RD

2020-10-29 Thread Paul Brodek
So I'm kinda late to this party, and I don't think I have a complete 
understanding of relatively recent Shimano der/shifter compatibility, but I 
don't think the RD-M772 Shadow rder shown here will index properly with 
Shimano downtube shifters, and even in friction mode the dt shifter cable 
pull might be insufficient for the rder? Also the rder has no cable tension 
adjusting barrel, so you either have to do without, making indexing really 
difficult, or wire it up with an inline adjuster at the rear. I think 
Shadow-type rders are only compatible with Shimano ATB shifters, not with 
Shimano road shifters, dt or brifter.

Microshift does make Shimano ATB-compatible bar-cons, I think, maybe in 
both 9spd and 10spd?

I've got an RD-6500-GS, all-silver, with a coupla light scratches, and an 
RD-6700-GS, light-gray with a silver face, also light scratches. And a 
cleaner 105 RD-5701-GS, gray/silver like the 6700. You can PM me if you're 
interesting.

FWIW the 6700-GS have been creeping up in price, I sold two very clean ones 
on ebay recently, one went for nearly $80 and the other just under $100.

Paul Brodek
pcb at gmail dot com
Hillsdale, NJ USA

On Monday, October 26, 2020 at 1:04:10 PM UTC-4, Sam Perez wrote:
>
> Was hoping to keep this aesthetic but at the end of the day functionality 
> and fun will be what I'll remember at the end of the ride. 
> On Mon, Oct 26, 2020, 8:33 AM John Blish > 
> wrote:
>
>> I have 2 units, both XT M772, silver, nine-speed, new, never used or 
>> mounted, still in their bubble-wrap.
>>
>> Email me at jblish at gmail dot com. if you want one.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> On Mon, Oct 26, 2020 at 7:58 AM Pat Smith > > wrote:
>>
>>> Look for the XT M772 RD as well, it's silver and 9s.
>>>
>>> -- 
>>> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google 
>>> Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group.
>>> To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send 
>>> an email to rbw-owne...@googlegroups.com .
>>> To view this discussion on the web visit 
>>> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/rbw-owners-bunch/f07e9829-7dc4-4b37-907b-d1de95a5dc3fo%40googlegroups.com
>>> .
>>>
>> -- 
>> John Blish
>> Western Colorado USA
>>
>> -- 
>> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
>> "RBW Owners Bunch" group.
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>> email to rbw-owne...@googlegroups.com .
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>>  
>> <https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/rbw-owners-bunch/CAPMNyVxa-5NDFJ43xtX%2Bu%3DL%2BwUTjzPPjHG-f3Q34MM1Wr-o%3Dng%40mail.gmail.com?utm_medium=email&utm_source=footer>
>> .
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: FS: Ibex Wool Garments: Coat XXXL - Jacket XL - Jersey L

2020-10-25 Thread Paul Brodek
All 3 garments spoken forthanks, everybody!

Paul Brodek
Hillsdale, NJ USA

On Saturday, October 24, 2020 at 3:57:35 PM UTC-4, Paul Brodek wrote:
Ibex Wool Coat XXXL (!!!) Green - 32.25" x 27.5": $120 (sold)
Ibex Wool Jacket XL - Gray - 26.5" x 24.5": $100 (sold)
Ibex Wool Jersey Short-Sleeve Jersey L - Blue - 25.5" x 18": $65 (pending 
payment)

>
> Prices include usps Priority shipping conti USA; paypal G/S or W/P
>
> Three Ibex pieces that are either too big or too small. Measurements are 
> collar-bottom>hem x pit-pit. 
>
> Green coat is very heavy wool, I think the heaviest Ibex had, cut long and 
> roomy. 100% wool on the tag. Great outer layer for those really cold 
> places. I'm 6', and when I was at 220lbs or so it was still roomy.
>
> Gray jacket seems to be the same weight wool, cut shorter. It doesn't have 
> a materials detail tag, but material looks and feels identical to the coat.
>
> Coat/jacket are minty, no tears, snags, pulls, stains; no visible wear. 
>
> Jersey is thinner wool, 100% Merino wood on the tag, full-zip, 3 pockets. 
> No damage or flaws except for one very small stain on the back, visible in 
> the photos. 
>
> Detailed photos on flickr, at top of this album:
> https://flic.kr/s/aHsk4hRDyg
>
> Paul Brodek
> Hillsdale, NJ USA
>
> [image: 50525486672_0ce6701646_c.jpg]
>
> [image: 50525485102_de214bcbc4_c.jpg]
>
> [image: 50525324611_4e166d636a_c.jpg]
>
> [image: 50524596893_54427f4cea_c.jpg]
>
> [image: 50524595893_2275d4252d_c.jpg]
>
> [image: 50525326671_89d49fd455_c.jpg]
>

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[RBW] Re: FS: Bagapalooza! Frost River - Duluth - Berthoud: Banana, Rack, Candy

2020-10-24 Thread Paul Brodek
All's gone but the Berthoud G587, so price drop on that.

Doumo arigatou minnasan!!!!!

Paul Brodek
Hillsdale, NJ USA

On Thursday, October 22, 2020 at 2:26:44 PM UTC-4, Paul Brodek wrote:

All prices include usps Priority shipping conti USA; payment via paypal 
Goods/Services or With Protection onegai shimasu.

Duluth Banana Bike Bag: $45 (sold)
Frost River Echo Trail Bag: $45 (sold)
Frost River Taconite Trail Bike Trunk: $60 (sold)
Berthoud G587 Rack Bag: now $65 (was $75)
Frost River Sawbill Trail Bag: $30 (sold)

>
> flickr pix here, at the top of the album:
> https://flic.kr/s/aHsk4hRDyg
>
> These have been sitting on my shelf for a long time, long enough 
> that two of the four banana bags I had actually got put back into use, 
> leaving the two offered here.
>
> Banana bags have non-original leather saddle straps, since I used toe 
> straps and the originals migrated who-knows-where.
>
> Frost River banana has a small stabilizer branch up top, factory 
> installed. Duluth has a factory-installed plastic stiffenener up top. 
> Both bags have a skillfully cut chloroplast stiffener on the bottom, by 
> yours truly. 
>
> Duluth Banana has two small holes drilled in the top, where I attached, 
> then removed, some kind of Trek qr saddle attachment 10yrs+ ago.
>
> Frost River Sawbill and Taconite bags mostly unused, the cleanest of all.
>
> Berthoud shows the most beasauge.
>
> Rack straps for the rack bags also not original, but they are leather and 
> sufficient in length.
>
> Banana bags show signs of use, but still very presentable.
>
> Happy to answer Qs.
>
> Paul Brodek
> Hillsdale, NJ USA
>
> [image: 50517155636_d7a1b27c36_c.jpg]
>
> [image: 50517326692_6f67d2574b_c.jpg]
>
> [image: 50516439968_56416864ac_c.jpg]
>
> [image: 50517262101_8ac62d82b3_c.jpg]
>
>
>
>

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[RBW] Re: FS: Bagapalooza! Frost River - Duluth - Berthoud: Banana, Rack, Candy

2020-10-23 Thread Paul Brodek
Thanks to all! Everything but the Berthoud rack bag is paid or spoken for, 
as noted below:

On Thursday, October 22, 2020 at 3:27:25 PM UTC-4, Paul Brodek wrote:
>
> All prices include usps Priority shipping conti USA; payment via paypal 
> Goods/Services or With Protection onegai shimasu.
>
> Duluth Banana Bike Bag: $45 (paid/shipped)
> Frost River Echo Trail Bag: $45 (pending payment)
> Frost River Taconite Trail Bike Trunk: $60 (paid/shipped)
> Berthoud G587 Rack Bag: $75
> Frost River Sawbill Trail Bag: $30 (paid/shipped)
>
> flickr pix here, at the top of the album:
> https://flic.kr/s/aHsk4hRDyg
>
> These have been sitting on my shelf for a long time, long enough 
> that two of the four banana bags I had actually got put back into use, 
> leaving the two offered here.
>
> Banana bags have non-original leather saddle straps, since I used toe 
> straps and the originals migrated who-knows-where.
>
> Frost River banana has a small stabilizer branch up top, factory 
> installed. Duluth has a factory-installed plastic stiffenener up top. 
> Both bags have a skillfully cut chloroplast stiffener on the bottom, by 
> yours truly. 
>
> Duluth Banana has two small holes drilled in the top, where I attached, 
> then removed, some kind of Trek qr saddle attachment 10yrs+ ago.
>
> Frost River Sawbill and Taconite bags mostly unused, the cleanest of all.
>
> Berthoud shows the most beasauge.
>
> Rack straps for the rack bags also not original, but they are leather and 
> sufficient in length.
>
> Banana bags show signs of use, but still very presentable.
>
> Happy to answer Qs.
>
> Paul Brodek
> Hillsdale, NJ USA
>
> [image: 50517155636_d7a1b27c36_c.jpg]
>
> [image: 50517326692_6f67d2574b_c.jpg]
>
> [image: 50516439968_56416864ac_c.jpg]
>
> [image: 50517262101_8ac62d82b3_c.jpg]
>
>
>
>

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[RBW] Re: FS: Bagapalooza! Frost River - Duluth - Berthoud: Banana, Rack, Candy

2020-10-22 Thread Paul Brodek
Just a quick heads-up, the Duluth Banana and Frost River Echo Trail are 
both spoken for, pending payment.

Paul Brodek
Hillsdale, NJ USA

On Thursday, October 22, 2020 at 3:27:25 PM UTC-4, Paul Brodek wrote:
>
> All prices include usps Priority shipping conti USA; payment via paypal 
> Goods/Services or With Protection onegai shimasu.
>
> Duluth Banana Bike Bag: $45 (pending payment)
> Frost River Echo Trail Bag: $45 (pending payment)
> Frost River Taconite Trail Bike Trunk: $60
> Berthoud G587 Rack Bag: $75
> Frost River Sawbill Trail Bag: $30
>
> flickr pix here, at the top of the album:
> https://flic.kr/s/aHsk4hRDyg
>
> These have been sitting on my shelf for a long time, long enough 
> that two of the four banana bags I had actually got put back into use, 
> leaving the two offered here.
>
> Banana bags have non-original leather saddle straps, since I used toe 
> straps and the originals migrated who-knows-where.
>
> Frost River banana has a small stabilizer branch up top, factory 
> installed. Duluth has a factory-installed plastic stiffenener up top. 
> Both bags have a skillfully cut chloroplast stiffener on the bottom, by 
> yours truly. 
>
> Duluth Banana has two small holes drilled in the top, where I attached, 
> then removed, some kind of Trek qr saddle attachment 10yrs+ ago.
>
> Frost River Sawbill and Taconite bags mostly unused, the cleanest of all.
>
> Berthoud shows the most beasauge.
>
> Rack straps for the rack bags also not original, but they are leather and 
> sufficient in length.
>
> Banana bags show signs of use, but still very presentable.
>
> Happy to answer Qs.
>
> Paul Brodek
> Hillsdale, NJ USA
>
> [image: 50517155636_d7a1b27c36_c.jpg]
>
> [image: 50517326692_6f67d2574b_c.jpg]
>
> [image: 50516439968_56416864ac_c.jpg]
>
> [image: 50517262101_8ac62d82b3_c.jpg]
>
>
>
>

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[RBW] Re: WTB/source for: 700c 1"threaded fork

2020-10-16 Thread Paul Brodek
It's not always easy to find hard numbers on replacement forks, but IME 
modern affordable replacement steel forks are not particularly 
lighter/lightish in weight. I think it's both for production cost reduction 
and for a mfr liability cushion in the face of gov't safety regs. I just 
checked some of the loose forks around here, all steel blades/steerer:

No-name replacement; Origin-8?: 1090g (long threadless steerer)
Nirve Fairfax production fork: 1010g
Soma/Tange replacement: 920g (long threadless steerer)
'90s Bianchi Eros production fork: 880g (for 61cm frame; threaded steerer)
'79 Fuji America production fork: 820g (for 61cm frame; threaded steerer)
'00s Zanconato custom fork: 800g (beefy big-boy build; frame's name was 
"Stomp")
'80s No-name Columbus SLX road fork: 770g (for 61cm frame; threaded steerer)
'82 Proteus 531 custom: 710g (for 61cm frame; threaded steerer)

I suppose "lighter/lightish" is always a relative thing, as in compared to 
what?, but I'd think you'd have to be getting close to 800g in steel to 
qualify as lightish. You're going to find those as used higher-end vintage 
forks, not off the rack from Surly/Soma/etc.

My Soma fork looks fine---built well, nice finish, inspires confidence. But 
I wouldn't call it lightish.

Paul Brodek
Hillsdale, NJ USA

On Friday, October 16, 2020 at 9:47:40 AM UTC-4, Patch T wrote:
>
> Hi Bunch!
>
> Found a decent (and free!) triple butted steel frame (85 Univega Maxima 
> Sport Mixte) to start a commuter I'm building for a friend. Trouble is, no 
> fork.
>
> Looking for a used steel fork or recommendations for a new one. 
>
>- 1" threaded
>- Any color, but black preferred. 
>- Lighter/lightish steel also preferred.
>- Headtube is about 110mm w/o headset; with headset installed, about 
>135mm from bottom of crown race to top of top race.
>- Caliper brake. 
>- Fender eyelets a plus, 
>- + rack eyelets even better!
>
> I'm close to buying this Soma Fork 
> <https://www.somafabshop.com/shop/product/soma-fork-crmo-49-road-threaded-1-3325?page=2&category=975>,
>  
> but the only color I don't want is chrome. If I find nothing, I'll go this 
> route *(and if I do, the 140mm will fit, right?) *Although I'd rather 
> spend less than 100 shipped...
>
> Thanks for your help!
> Patch
> BK/NY
>

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[RBW] Re: Fast fat man

2020-10-13 Thread Paul Brodek
So they passed you, the 65yr-old, but didn't catch "the old guy," the 
74yr-old?

Pot, meet kettle. Kettle, meet pot.

:^}

Paul Brodek
Hillsdale, NJ USA

On Tuesday, October 13, 2020 at 5:39:08 PM UTC-4, Patrick Moore wrote:
>
> [snips]
>
> ...during our last encounter, I said, "well, I'm 65!" He retorted, "Well 
> I'm 74."...
>
> ...I was passed...by a young woman and...a young man, but they did not 
> catch up to the old guy, as far as I know.
>
>
>
> ---
> Patrick Moore
> Alburquerque, Nuevo Mexico, Etats Unis d'Amerique, Orbis Terrarum
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Morning coffee; need a new Riv mug

2020-10-13 Thread Paul Brodek
Pricey, and I'm no racer, but the older I get, the more I like this one:
https://www.etsy.com/il-en/listing/694277379/fausto-coppi-age-treachery-cyclist-mug

Paul Brodek
Hillsdale, NJ USA

On Tuesday, October 13, 2020 at 1:02:25 PM UTC-4, John Phillips wrote:
>
>Order one direct from https://www.redwingstoneware.com/ to tide you 
> over until the next time Riv has their bicycle mugs in stock?
>
> I broke mine too, but I've been "borrowing" my wife's mug.
>
> John
>
> On Friday, October 9, 2020 at 2:32:29 PM UTC-7, steve wrote:
>>
>> What can I say.  When a coffee mug meets a tile floor at high speed; the 
>> floor wins and you can’t put Humpty Dumpty back together again.  The 
>> Rivendell coffee mug was my favorite way to enjoy a cup of coffee in the 
>> morning.  Does anyone have one they aren’t using and would be willing to 
>> sell?
>>
>> Steve
>>
>

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Re: [RBW] '71 Raleigh Pro Track 650b Conversion

2020-10-12 Thread Paul Brodek
Thanks, Pattrick. Fortunately this is a '71 built mostly for track racing, 
so the bb is pretty darn high, almost 28cm with the 32-584s. Another way of 
saying it is the bb drop is very shallow, only 53mm. That is the shallowest 
I've ever had, though I have/had two true 'cross race bikes at 55mm. Not 
that I raced them, mind you.

I know I say this a lot on various fora, but I feel like I'm kind of 
blessed with a strong dose of non-fussiness. I've got bikes with bb drops 
approaching/at 80mm, some in the 50s-60s, as well as in-betweens, and I 
have fun riding all of them. I may feel a little more "in" the bike than 
"on" the bike with the deeper-drop frames, but I'm never on the 
shallow-drop ones wishing they were deeper. 

Paul Brodek
Hillsdale, NJ USA

On Friday, October 9, 2020 at 4:42:33 PM UTC-4, Patrick Moore wrote:
>
> That's nice. Yes, the Technomic looks better than a rise stem. Do the 32 
> mm tires put the pedals at risk of striking in corners? My Riv fixies were 
> built with large bb drop and, when I used to ride 650C X 22 mm (actual 
> width) tires -- 24 1/2" tall -- I'd clip my KEOs in corners if I wasn't 
> careful. Now I'm using slightly taller 559 X 24.8" tires with slightly more 
> compact Dura Ace SPD pedals, but I still have to be careful.
>
> For those of you who haven't seen it, here's an even more extreme, but not 
> nearly as pretty, track bike with wheel conversion:
>
> http://www.63xc.com/jameslee/18spokes.htm
>
> On Fri, Oct 9, 2020 at 12:12 PM Paul Brodek  > wrote:
>
>> Don't think I posted this here before? Got the frame last winter, 650b'd 
>> it in early covid days, just updated/finalized it with new/old neo-retro 
>> 650b wheels.
>>
>> Picked up this '71 Raleigh Pro Track frameset over the winter, planning 
>> to keep it as vintage as possible. First short shakedown ride was all 
>> vintage, and was pretty horrible. Bars were too narrow, with too deep a 
>> drop, the Campy NR brake lever body felt tiny, and with no rear brake 
>> having to dive down for the Campy lever was a little scary. So I 
>> immediately modernized the cockpit with wider bars, an aero lever and a 
>> 'cross lever. As much as I'd like to see a non-aero lever with some housing 
>> loops and swoops, full-on '70s, I'm reluctant to go there without a rear 
>> brake. Last basic piece of the cockpit puzzle was a Cane Creek tandem dummy 
>> lever for the right/rear side, which makes the bars a bit comfier and helps 
>> my upper body feel more balanced. As a bonus, from certain angles, the 
>> dummy lever looks a lot like Futurama's Dr. Zoidberg. 
>>
>> Didn't have any vintage track wheels for the first build, so I used a set 
>> of on-hand, older Grand Cru 700c track wheels. They look vintage-ish, all 
>> silver with narrow rims. 26mm was about as wide as I could go on the tires, 
>> with pinch points both under the fork crown and between the chainstays. 
>> Tried Vittoria Corsa 28-622, which were around 26.5mm on the narrow Grand 
>> Cru rims. Definitely maxed out width-wise. 
>>
>> That all gave me a fast and smooth ride, but definitely a bit harsh, 
>> especially for a fixed gear, where lifting off the saddle to coast/float 
>> over rough stuff isn't very effective. Can't let your legs get all relaxed 
>> and bump-absorbing springy when they have to keep spinning. 
>>
>> So, whilst first hiding from the 'rona in my basement in March, I decided 
>> to try a 650b build, using a set of Paul/Velocity Synergy fixed/track 
>> wheels I had on hand. Which also look vintage-ish, with highish flanges on 
>> the Paul hubs, but still not the Real Deal. 
>>
>> Grand Bois Cypres 32-584 tires fit fine front/rear. Looks like 38s would 
>> fit OK in the front, but would be too tight at the chainstays. Plenty of 
>> room under the seatstay bridge and behind the chainstay bridge. If I ever 
>> decide to get the frame tweaked, it'd be neat to bump the stays to fit 38s, 
>> and drill the seatstay bridge for a rear caliper. But I feel like it's too 
>> pretty to mess with. The unforgivable tyranny of beauty! 
>>
>> First geared it 42x16, just under 70", then got a 41t TA ring from Peter 
>> White, to get the wheel a little further back in the drops, for better tire 
>> clearance. 
>>
>> Brake reach is just over 60mm, so most normal-reach vintage sidepulls 
>> won't quite reach without modification. I lengthened the slots on a Suntour 
>> Superbe caliper, which worked OK, but I really wanted a Campy caliper to go 
>> wit

[RBW] Re: '71 Raleigh Pro Track 650b Conversion

2020-10-12 Thread Paul Brodek
Thanks, Ray, and sorry for the late follow-up. There are no chronic paint 
issues, but the chrome on the fork crown is lifting in spots. 

Paul Brodek
Hillsdale, NJ USA

On Friday, October 9, 2020 at 4:02:46 PM UTC-4, Ray wrote:
>
> Amazing photographs and beautiful bike. This looks like a really fun and 
> creative build. I would have never thought to 650b a vintage track bike, 
> but it looks so natural here. Well done.
>
> Also that bike looks too be in amazing condition for how old it is. Did 
> you have any issues with paint? I have a 1974 Raleigh Pro track, and for 
> some inexplicable reason the paint is chipping on the headtube and only the 
> headtube... no rust or anything, clean chrome underneath, just falling 
> right off. No clue why.
>
> Ray in Madison, WI
>
> On Friday, October 9, 2020 at 1:12:07 PM UTC-5 Paul Brodek wrote:
>
>> Don't think I posted this here before? Got the frame last winter, 650b'd 
>> it in early covid days, just updated/finalized it with new/old neo-retro 
>> 650b wheels.
>>
>> Picked up this '71 Raleigh Pro Track frameset over the winter, planning 
>> to keep it as vintage as possible. First short shakedown ride was all 
>> vintage, and was pretty horrible. Bars were too narrow, with too deep a 
>> drop, the Campy NR brake lever body felt tiny, and with no rear brake 
>> having to dive down for the Campy lever was a little scary. So I 
>> immediately modernized the cockpit with wider bars, an aero lever and a 
>> 'cross lever. As much as I'd like to see a non-aero lever with some housing 
>> loops and swoops, full-on '70s, I'm reluctant to go there without a rear 
>> brake. Last basic piece of the cockpit puzzle was a Cane Creek tandem dummy 
>> lever for the right/rear side, which makes the bars a bit comfier and helps 
>> my upper body feel more balanced. As a bonus, from certain angles, the 
>> dummy lever looks a lot like Futurama's Dr. Zoidberg. 
>>
>> Didn't have any vintage track wheels for the first build, so I used a set 
>> of on-hand, older Grand Cru 700c track wheels. They look vintage-ish, all 
>> silver with narrow rims. 26mm was about as wide as I could go on the tires, 
>> with pinch points both under the fork crown and between the chainstays. 
>> Tried Vittoria Corsa 28-622, which were around 26.5mm on the narrow Grand 
>> Cru rims. Definitely maxed out width-wise. 
>>
>> That all gave me a fast and smooth ride, but definitely a bit harsh, 
>> especially for a fixed gear, where lifting off the saddle to coast/float 
>> over rough stuff isn't very effective. Can't let your legs get all relaxed 
>> and bump-absorbing springy when they have to keep spinning. 
>>
>> So, whilst first hiding from the 'rona in my basement in March, I decided 
>> to try a 650b build, using a set of Paul/Velocity Synergy fixed/track 
>> wheels I had on hand. Which also look vintage-ish, with highish flanges on 
>> the Paul hubs, but still not the Real Deal. 
>>
>> Grand Bois Cypres 32-584 tires fit fine front/rear. Looks like 38s would 
>> fit OK in the front, but would be too tight at the chainstays. Plenty of 
>> room under the seatstay bridge and behind the chainstay bridge. If I ever 
>> decide to get the frame tweaked, it'd be neat to bump the stays to fit 38s, 
>> and drill the seatstay bridge for a rear caliper. But I feel like it's too 
>> pretty to mess with. The unforgivable tyranny of beauty! 
>>
>> First geared it 42x16, just under 70", then got a 41t TA ring from Peter 
>> White, to get the wheel a little further back in the drops, for better tire 
>> clearance. 
>>
>> Brake reach is just over 60mm, so most normal-reach vintage sidepulls 
>> won't quite reach without modification. I lengthened the slots on a Suntour 
>> Superbe caliper, which worked OK, but I really wanted a Campy caliper to go 
>> with the rest of the Campy stuff. Got a normal-/long-reach Campy NR brake 
>> caliper, filed away the bottom of the slots, and used biggish washers on 
>> both sides of the arm to help increase the contact/clamping-force area. The 
>> shoes don't hit ribber, and I don't think they'll self-eject, but I 
>> wouldn't recommend this to others. I've got room to use a drop bolt, but 
>> they're hard to find for front/nutted, and it's a more visible kludge. A 
>> period-appropriate centerpull would be more solid, and maybe not look 
>> totally out of place, but that would mean a cable hanger/stop, andnot 
>> Campy. 
>>
>> The bike stayed in that state since March, with

[RBW] '71 Raleigh Pro Track 650b Conversion

2020-10-09 Thread Paul Brodek
Don't think I posted this here before? Got the frame last winter, 650b'd it 
in early covid days, just updated/finalized it with new/old neo-retro 650b 
wheels.

Picked up this '71 Raleigh Pro Track frameset over the winter, planning to 
keep it as vintage as possible. First short shakedown ride was all vintage, 
and was pretty horrible. Bars were too narrow, with too deep a drop, the 
Campy NR brake lever body felt tiny, and with no rear brake having to dive 
down for the Campy lever was a little scary. So I immediately modernized 
the cockpit with wider bars, an aero lever and a 'cross lever. As much as 
I'd like to see a non-aero lever with some housing loops and swoops, 
full-on '70s, I'm reluctant to go there without a rear brake. Last basic 
piece of the cockpit puzzle was a Cane Creek tandem dummy lever for the 
right/rear side, which makes the bars a bit comfier and helps my upper body 
feel more balanced. As a bonus, from certain angles, the dummy lever looks 
a lot like Futurama's Dr. Zoidberg. 

Didn't have any vintage track wheels for the first build, so I used a set 
of on-hand, older Grand Cru 700c track wheels. They look vintage-ish, all 
silver with narrow rims. 26mm was about as wide as I could go on the tires, 
with pinch points both under the fork crown and between the chainstays. 
Tried Vittoria Corsa 28-622, which were around 26.5mm on the narrow Grand 
Cru rims. Definitely maxed out width-wise. 

That all gave me a fast and smooth ride, but definitely a bit harsh, 
especially for a fixed gear, where lifting off the saddle to coast/float 
over rough stuff isn't very effective. Can't let your legs get all relaxed 
and bump-absorbing springy when they have to keep spinning. 

So, whilst first hiding from the 'rona in my basement in March, I decided 
to try a 650b build, using a set of Paul/Velocity Synergy fixed/track 
wheels I had on hand. Which also look vintage-ish, with highish flanges on 
the Paul hubs, but still not the Real Deal. 

Grand Bois Cypres 32-584 tires fit fine front/rear. Looks like 38s would 
fit OK in the front, but would be too tight at the chainstays. Plenty of 
room under the seatstay bridge and behind the chainstay bridge. If I ever 
decide to get the frame tweaked, it'd be neat to bump the stays to fit 38s, 
and drill the seatstay bridge for a rear caliper. But I feel like it's too 
pretty to mess with. The unforgivable tyranny of beauty! 

First geared it 42x16, just under 70", then got a 41t TA ring from Peter 
White, to get the wheel a little further back in the drops, for better tire 
clearance. 

Brake reach is just over 60mm, so most normal-reach vintage sidepulls won't 
quite reach without modification. I lengthened the slots on a Suntour 
Superbe caliper, which worked OK, but I really wanted a Campy caliper to go 
with the rest of the Campy stuff. Got a normal-/long-reach Campy NR brake 
caliper, filed away the bottom of the slots, and used biggish washers on 
both sides of the arm to help increase the contact/clamping-force area. The 
shoes don't hit ribber, and I don't think they'll self-eject, but I 
wouldn't recommend this to others. I've got room to use a drop bolt, but 
they're hard to find for front/nutted, and it's a more visible kludge. A 
period-appropriate centerpull would be more solid, and maybe not look 
totally out of place, but that would mean a cable hanger/stop, andnot 
Campy. 

The bike stayed in that state since March, with me pining for a 650b 
wheelset with Campy high-flange track hubs. A few things came together, and 
yesterday I got a set of neo-retro wheels from Earle Young. Earle used my 
Campy 36h high-flange road hubs on new Pacenti Brevet 650b rims, with new 
spokes. Then I did a relatively painless road>track axle conversion on the 
hubs. The tires get about 1mm wider on the Brevets, still decent clearance 
at the chainstays, with the wheel further back in the drops. The Brevets 
look more vintage than the Synergys, and they don't have any tire-seating 
issues. If you're around vintage wheels a lot, the wider profile does look 
a little different, but I think that's less an issue with 650b than with 
700c. I have a 700c set for my Hetchins, next up.

I also went back to a 7-style stem, Nitto Technomic, instead of the 
upjutting tig'd Nitto, mainly for vintage looks. Had to fool around with 
bottle cage and cross lever to get everything to fit. 

So other than the possibility of a different brake caliper to be named 
later, I consider it done.

Hoping to actually get a ride on it this weekend.

Flickr album here, small pix attached: 

https://www.flickr.com/photos/26383479@N04/albums/72157712064967518 


[image: 50441879732_6f56889638_c.jpg]

[image: 50439494513_004d65a310_c.jpg]


[image: 50441003908_ed30af2888_c.jpg]



Paul Brodek
Hillsdale, NJ USA

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[RBW] Re: Sugino Granny Gear

2020-10-08 Thread Paul Brodek
Gee, I had a whole spiel ready to post, but doug 'n' Nick P. said it all 
first.

I'll just say that I just checked my on-hand stash, both aluminum and 
steel, and can confirm what they've said. 

Paul Brodek
Hillsdale, NJ USA


On Thursday, October 8, 2020 at 10:27:55 PM UTC-4, John Rinker wrote:
>
> Good afternoon,
>
> Can anyone shed light on whether the granny gear on the Sugino triple 
> crank is symmetrical and therefore reversable?
>
> Thanks. 
>

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Re: [RBW] Back In The Riv Saddle With A '98 Custom Starck-Riv

2020-10-07 Thread Paul Brodek
Late reply, but I did manage to measure the bb drop t'other day: 76mm, so 
not quite 80mm, but deep.

Paul Brodek
Hillsdale, NJ USA

On Monday, September 21, 2020 at 10:37:50 AM UTC-4, Andy Beichler wrote:
>
> I love that color.  The bottom bracket looks low.  Had Grant started to 
> use the 80mm of drop then or is it just the angle of the picture?
>
> On Monday, September 21, 2020 at 10:11:47 AM UTC-4 Joel wrote:
>
>> Beautiful, enjoy. 
>>
>> On Monday, September 21, 2020 at 12:56:34 AM UTC-4 Andrew Letton wrote:
>>
>>> Lovely build, Paul!
>>> Same year and color as my Riv Road:  1998 Rivendell Road 
>>> <https://www.flickr.com/photos/letton/albums/72157621865809178>
>>>
>>> 1998 Rivendell Road
>>>
>>> Explore this photo album by letton on Flickr!
>>> <https://www.flickr.com/photos/letton/albums/72157621865809178>
>>>
>>> Enjoy the ride!
>>> cheers,
>>> Andrew
>>>
>>>
>>> On Monday, September 21, 2020, 11:03:29 AM GMT+10, Paul Brodek <
>>> pcb@gmail.com> wrote: 
>>>
>>>
>>> Took a little while, but I finally landed Ray Foss' '98 Custom 
>>> Starck-Riv Road frameset. Ray got it from the original owner, but with many 
>>> other awesome mounts to choose from, Ray never managed to build it up. 
>>> Doesn't look like Art M., the original owner, rode it much before selling 
>>> it to Ray. I did manage to build it up, but haven't managed to ride it yet. 
>>> Maybe tomorrow?
>>>
>>> It's only my second Riv, the first was an even earlier '95 Waterford-Riv 
>>> Road. Bought that one from Peter B. maybe 7-8yrs ago, sold it last 
>>> year-ish. If I do the math, gaining 3yrs every Riv buy over an 8yr stretch, 
>>> in about 64yrs I'll have myself a '21! I'm catching up!
>>>
>>> I mulled over the build while reeling it in, decided on this first 
>>> go-round to do a period-correct-ish Riv quasi-tribute, all silver 
>>> components, nothing insanely current. The frame came with Silver dt 
>>> shifters, so they had to stay. Very few silver-rimmed wheelsets under my 
>>> roof, at least ones that are modern-enough to have a 130mm rear OLN. All I 
>>> had was a clean set of Ultegra tri-color hubs on Mavic Reflex SUP. 'Sup? 
>>> Then I found a decent amount of Dura-Ace 7x00-series silver stuff, so 
>>> rder/brakes/cranks/stem are D-A. The top tube is a little on the long side 
>>> for me, 60.5cm, so the D-A stem is only 90mm. Tried a D-A post, but there's 
>>> not a lot of post showing, and the bottom of the flutes on the D-A post sat 
>>> below the lugline, providing a possible water incursion route, so a 
>>> cut-short Thomson Elite works for now. Been saving the green Brooks B-17 
>>> Champion standard for something, turns out it was this.
>>>
>>> I wanted non-aero brake cable routing, but I'm no longer thrilled with 
>>> those smaller vintage lever bodies. Then I remembered a pair of Campy 
>>> C-Record dual-routing levers weresomewhere...and they turned up. 
>>> Pairing them with the D-A 7800 dual-pivots is a little weird, I'm wishing 
>>> the caliper spring tension was higher, but it oughta work OK.
>>>
>>> It's geared for now with a 38/24 compact double, using a Peter 
>>> White-sourced TA Zephyr K tripelizer ring, mounted on the inside position. 
>>> 11-28t 8spd cassette in the rear, so I still get a decent low gear and can 
>>> use the med-cage D-A rder. The Shimano CX-70 fder sits a little high over 
>>> the outer ring, can't get it any lower without scraping the top of the 
>>> chainstay, but it shifts fine in the stand. I didn't have a BBG bashguard 
>>> small enough to use in the outer position, I'd have to raise the fder even 
>>> higher for that, so there's a weird BBG spacer thingie there. Coulda just 
>>> used track chainring bolts, but I guess I was looking for more silvery 
>>> bling, and an unused outer chainring ledge just looks a little lonely.
>>>
>>> The frame's built around 49mm-reach brakes, and the 33mm Soma Supple 
>>> Vitesse SLs at about 30mm on the narrow Mavic rims are close to max. Pinch 
>>> point is under the calipers, as it should be on a well-designed 49mm-reach 
>>> frame, so wider would work OK, but taller would get too tight.
>>>
>>> Having never shifted an 8spd cog range in friction mode before, I'm 
>>> lo

[RBW] FS: Deore XT/Velocity Synergy 650b QR Disc/DT Spoke Wheelset Silver/Silver

2020-09-30 Thread Paul Brodek
I am about a week away from getting a neo-retro 650b wheelset for my '71 
Raleigh Pro Track bike, so I'd like to sell the following wheels to help 
defray the costs. These disc wheels clearly were not used on the Raleigh 
Pro.

Deore XT FM-756 QR 6-bolt hubs/Velocity Synergy 650b rims/DT sg spokes/Avid 
160mm discs: $200 pickup NJ/$240 shipped east/$265 shipped west

I bought these new a few years back to use to check for 650b clearance on a 
couple/few disc 'cross bikes. Minimal actual use.

True/round, clean rims/spokes/nipples/seats. Smooth/clean bearings. They 
pretty much look unused. Discs show some use, I think I took them from 
another wheelset.

Hubs are silver Deore XT FM-756, QR, 36h, 6-bolt, 10spd compatible, 
100/135mm f/r spacing. That means some larger-ratio Shimano 11spd cassettes 
should also work.

Rims are silver Velocity Synergy 650b, offset rear. These rims are 
rim-brake compatible.

Spokes are DT 14g single-butted, silver.

Discs are Avid 160mm.

QR skewers will be generic-ish, depending on what I've got in the QR box.

Pickup in NJ/NYC metro area on the Jersey side

I haven't shipped any wheels in quite a while, certainly not post-pandemic. 
I'm thinking $40 for east of the Missip, $65 west. I'd be happy to do a 
partial refund if the actual shipping amount is less.

I did finally score some boxes from my LBS, after a 2mos-long drought, so I 
can box/ship no problem.

A few pix below, more in my flickr For Sale album:
https://flic.kr/s/aHsk4hRDyg

Paul Brodek
Hillsdale, NJ USA

[image: _1030515af.jpg]

[image: _1030517ah.jpg]

[image: _1030520ak.jpg]

[image: _1030518ai.jpg]

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Re: [RBW] Back In The Riv Saddle With A '98 Custom Starck-Riv

2020-09-30 Thread Paul Brodek
Thanks, Todd.

I got the 40t Zephyr K ring today, pulled the drive-side crankarm off to 
install it, and when I tried to switch the rings realized what I actually 
needed was an Alize K ring, not a Zephry K. Alize is 130bcd, Zephyr is 
110bcd. So not even close.

So for all the stuff I wrote in previous posts about the Zephyr K 
tripelizer ring, should've read Alize K tripelizer ring. 

Sheesh. If it's not one thing, it's another.

Paul Brodek
Hillsdale, NJ USA

On Wednesday, September 30, 2020 at 2:17:12 PM UTC-4, Todd G. wrote:
>
> Beautiful bike, Paul. Looks very well thought out and I’m sure it rides as 
> good as it looks. Enjoy!
>
> On Tuesday, September 29, 2020 at 2:27:43 PM UTC-7 Patrick Moore wrote:
>
>> Shoot, I thought Joe had thought that little thing up just for me. It's a 
>> nice little oddity, but serves no purpose that I can see. 
>>
>> Speaking of oddities, I had Chauncey braze a wire "L" onto the right 
>> seatstay just below the bridge, made I think from an old spoke. This is a 
>> chain hook, tho' Joe put an elegant little shelf on the chainstay for this 
>> purpose just for'ard of the dropout; but that shelf -- a kind of 
>> metalsmith's version of the Columbine hanger  -- doesn't work well, since 
>> there is no derailleur to hold the chain taut; the chain just slips off. 
>> But the "L" does hold it up out of the sand (no pretty grass verges here) 
>> when I have to remove the rear wheel by the side of the road.
>>
>> I'd guess that the L's upright is about 1/2" long. When he made the 2003 
>> Curt replacement (the Curt didn't have that little chainstay lug wing) I 
>> asked him to make the upright longer. He did that. It's about 1 1/2" long, 
>> comically long. But it does work; you can skewer both runs of chain on it 
>> with room to spare. 
>>
>> Both of these are really hidden from sight behind the seatstay; you have 
>> to crane your neck and peer closely to see them.
>>
>> On Mon, Sep 28, 2020 at 8:14 PM Paul Brodek  wrote:
>>
>>> That bb shell w/shelf-wing design isn't uncommon, fwiw, and the one on 
>>> Patrick's frame isn't the same shell as the Richard Sachs bb. Richard has 
>>> been designing his own lugs for a long time now, but I'm not very familiar 
>>> with who his suppliers have been over the years. So I don't know who made 
>>> the bb shell in Eric's frame, but it's almost certainly an exclusive Sachs 
>>> design.
>>>
>>> Maxway is a Taiwanese framebuilding company, but I don't think they make 
>>> their own lugs. They're the go-to shop in Taiwan for higher-end steel frame 
>>> mfr. They made the Kogswells, wouldn't be surprised if that's who Riv is 
>>> using for their Taiwan production. The recent Raleigh Team Pro 40th 
>>> Anniv/Tribute frameset is made by Maxway.
>>>
>>> The two better-/best-known lug mfrs in Taiwan are Allotec and Long Shen. 
>>> I don't know much about Allotec, but the 40th Anniv Raleigh Team Pro uses 
>>> lugs made by Allotec.
>>>
>>> Long Shen was/is better known, I think, but it seems like they're 
>>> closing/closed. Riv said something about "a sister company" taking over 
>>> production so they weren't worried. Richard Sachs said he placed a "big m-f 
>>> order" with Long Shen when he heard the news. He did not abbreviate "m-f." 
>>>
>>> Long Shen was making the current Sachs lugs, dropouts and probably other 
>>> frame fittings as well, but they were/are Richard's own designs. He owns 
>>> the molds/tooling, so potentially he could find someone else to make them, 
>>> but he ordered enough to likely last till his last hurrah.
>>>
>>> Long Shen made lugs for other folks, too, so those folks would have had 
>>> to scramble to fine new suppliers. The Pacenti lugs/drops, now owned by 
>>> Framebuilder Supply, were from both Long Shen and Allotec. 
>>>
>>> I _think_ there's still cast lugs being made in Japan. I'm pretty sure 
>>> that's where Mark DiNucci gets his lugs/bits made.
>>>
>>> Many years ago I visited Nikko Lugs in Japan, with Trek's big (in many 
>>> senses of the word) buyer Fred Drenhouse (RIP). Fred was so big/tall many 
>>> just called him "Big Fred." To me he was Fred De House. Sorry for the 
>>> drift. Nikko still seems to be in business, still making lugs, but they're 
>>> a bulge-forming company

Re: [RBW] Back In The Riv Saddle With A '98 Custom Starck-Riv

2020-09-30 Thread Paul Brodek
Looks like Sachs carved the lugs for Bridgestone, which Grant couldn't get 
them to use. Grant then used them on his first Riv frames.

'93 fax from Grant to Richard re: lug progress @ BS:
https://www.richardsachs.com/a-fax-from-bridgestone/

Jan Heine blog mention, he also says there's more early Riv info in a BQ:
https://www.renehersecycles.com/1995-rivendell-turning-the-tide/

Paul Brodek
Hillsdale, NJ USA

On Tuesday, September 29, 2020 at 12:09:35 AM UTC-4, Joel S wrote:
>
> Sachs did design the lugs for Rivendell.  Don’t know about the Bridgestone 
> part.  
>
> On Mon, Sep 28, 2020 at 11:27 PM 'Eric Norris' via RBW Owners Bunch <
> rbw-owne...@googlegroups.com > wrote:
>
>> Legend has it that Sachs designed lugs for Bridgestone that ended up 
>> being used on the first Road Standards. Any truth to that?
>>
>> –Eric N
>>
>>
>> On Sep 28, 2020, at 7:14 PM, Paul Brodek > 
>> wrote:
>>
>> 
>> That bb shell w/shelf-wing design isn't uncommon, fwiw, and the one on 
>>
>> Patrick's frame isn't the same shell as the Richard Sachs bb. Richard has 
>> been designing his own lugs for a long time now, but I'm not very familiar 
>> with who his suppliers have been over the years. So I don't know who made 
>> the bb shell in Eric's frame, but it's almost certainly an exclusive Sachs 
>> design.
>>
>> Maxway is a Taiwanese framebuilding company, but I don't think they make 
>> their own lugs. They're the go-to shop in Taiwan for higher-end steel frame 
>> mfr. They made the Kogswells, wouldn't be surprised if that's who Riv is 
>> using for their Taiwan production. The recent Raleigh Team Pro 40th 
>> Anniv/Tribute frameset is made by Maxway.
>>
>> The two better-/best-known lug mfrs in Taiwan are Allotec and Long Shen. 
>> I don't know much about Allotec, but the 40th Anniv Raleigh Team Pro uses 
>> lugs made by Allotec.
>>
>> Long Shen was/is better known, I think, but it seems like they're 
>> closing/closed. Riv said something about "a sister company" taking over 
>> production so they weren't worried. Richard Sachs said he placed a "big m-f 
>> order" with Long Shen when he heard the news. He did not abbreviate "m-f." 
>>
>> Long Shen was making the current Sachs lugs, dropouts and probably other 
>> frame fittings as well, but they were/are Richard's own designs. He owns 
>> the molds/tooling, so potentially he could find someone else to make them, 
>> but he ordered enough to likely last till his last hurrah.
>>
>> Long Shen made lugs for other folks, too, so those folks would have had 
>> to scramble to fine new suppliers. The Pacenti lugs/drops, now owned by 
>> Framebuilder Supply, were from both Long Shen and Allotec. 
>>
>> I _think_ there's still cast lugs being made in Japan. I'm pretty sure 
>> that's where Mark DiNucci gets his lugs/bits made.
>>
>> Many years ago I visited Nikko Lugs in Japan, with Trek's big (in many 
>> senses of the word) buyer Fred Drenhouse (RIP). Fred was so big/tall many 
>> just called him "Big Fred." To me he was Fred De House. Sorry for the 
>> drift. Nikko still seems to be in business, still making lugs, but they're 
>> a bulge-forming company, don't think they do casting. That bb design has to 
>> be cast, can't get that wing with bulge-forming, afaik.
>>
>> Richard Sachs designed some lugs for Grant @ BS USA in the early '90s, 
>> with Grant intending Nikko to make them for the RB series. Don't know if 
>> those ever went into production.
>>
>> Paul Brodek
>> Hillsdale, NJ USA
>>
>>
>>
>> On Monday, September 28, 2020 at 6:00:52 PM UTC-4, lconley wrote:
>>>
>>> Not saying they made the frame, just the lug.
>>>
>>> Laing
>>>
>>> On Monday, September 28, 2020 at 5:54:04 PM UTC-4 lconley wrote:
>>>
>>>> Pretty sure that is an "M" for Maxway.
>>>> I have that same feature on my Maxway single speed frame. I believe 
>>>> that they made some frames for Rivendell at some point, located in Taiwan.
>>>>
>>>> Laing
>>>> Delray Beach FL
>>>>
>>>> On Monday, September 28, 2020 at 5:48:06 PM UTC-4 campyo...@me.com 
>>>> wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> There’s a maker whose name starts with “W” (can’t recall the name at 
>>>>> the moment) who makes BB shells like that. My Richard Sachs h

Re: [RBW] Back In The Riv Saddle With A '98 Custom Starck-Riv

2020-09-28 Thread Paul Brodek
That bb shell w/shelf-wing design isn't uncommon, fwiw, and the one on 
Patrick's frame isn't the same shell as the Richard Sachs bb. Richard has 
been designing his own lugs for a long time now, but I'm not very familiar 
with who his suppliers have been over the years. So I don't know who made 
the bb shell in Eric's frame, but it's almost certainly an exclusive Sachs 
design.

Maxway is a Taiwanese framebuilding company, but I don't think they make 
their own lugs. They're the go-to shop in Taiwan for higher-end steel frame 
mfr. They made the Kogswells, wouldn't be surprised if that's who Riv is 
using for their Taiwan production. The recent Raleigh Team Pro 40th 
Anniv/Tribute frameset is made by Maxway.

The two better-/best-known lug mfrs in Taiwan are Allotec and Long Shen. I 
don't know much about Allotec, but the 40th Anniv Raleigh Team Pro uses 
lugs made by Allotec.

Long Shen was/is better known, I think, but it seems like they're 
closing/closed. Riv said something about "a sister company" taking over 
production so they weren't worried. Richard Sachs said he placed a "big m-f 
order" with Long Shen when he heard the news. He did not abbreviate "m-f." 

Long Shen was making the current Sachs lugs, dropouts and probably other 
frame fittings as well, but they were/are Richard's own designs. He owns 
the molds/tooling, so potentially he could find someone else to make them, 
but he ordered enough to likely last till his last hurrah.

Long Shen made lugs for other folks, too, so those folks would have had to 
scramble to fine new suppliers. The Pacenti lugs/drops, now owned by 
Framebuilder Supply, were from both Long Shen and Allotec. 

I _think_ there's still cast lugs being made in Japan. I'm pretty sure 
that's where Mark DiNucci gets his lugs/bits made.

Many years ago I visited Nikko Lugs in Japan, with Trek's big (in many 
senses of the word) buyer Fred Drenhouse (RIP). Fred was so big/tall many 
just called him "Big Fred." To me he was Fred De House. Sorry for the 
drift. Nikko still seems to be in business, still making lugs, but they're 
a bulge-forming company, don't think they do casting. That bb design has to 
be cast, can't get that wing with bulge-forming, afaik.

Richard Sachs designed some lugs for Grant @ BS USA in the early '90s, with 
Grant intending Nikko to make them for the RB series. Don't know if those 
ever went into production.

Paul Brodek
Hillsdale, NJ USA



On Monday, September 28, 2020 at 6:00:52 PM UTC-4, lconley wrote:
>
> Not saying they made the frame, just the lug.
>
> Laing
>
> On Monday, September 28, 2020 at 5:54:04 PM UTC-4 lconley wrote:
>
>> Pretty sure that is an "M" for Maxway.
>> I have that same feature on my Maxway single speed frame. I believe that 
>> they made some frames for Rivendell at some point, located in Taiwan.
>>
>> Laing
>> Delray Beach FL
>>
>> On Monday, September 28, 2020 at 5:48:06 PM UTC-4 campyo...@me.com wrote:
>>
>>> There’s a maker whose name starts with “W” (can’t recall the name at the 
>>> moment) who makes BB shells like that. My Richard Sachs has one:
>>>
>>>
>>> --Eric Norris
>>> campyo...@me.com
>>> Insta: @CampyOnlyGuy
>>> YouTube: YouTube.com/CampyOnlyGuy  
>>>
>>> On Sep 28, 2020, at 2:40 PM, Paul Brodek  wrote:
>>>
>>> Hey Patrick,
>>>
>>> My frame doesn't have the Little Wing (Well she's walking/thru the 
>>> clouds...), but I'm pretty sure what you've got there is a cast bb shell, 
>>> with the wing integral to the casting. Can't remember who makes it, but 
>>> I've seen 'em before.
>>>
>>> Oh, and I bit the bullet and changed the front rim strip as well. Then 
>>> the tube burst in the stand, pulling it I saw it had already gotten 
>>> distorted/damaged by the Velox tape, so it was waiting for fail.
>>>
>>> It should be said, though, that the tubes are Q-Tubes Extralights, made 
>>> by Kenda, which I have used for years without any particular problems. But 
>>> over the past year or two I've had more than a few rim-side failures with 
>>> these. Fortunately usually not on the road. Kinda feel like I maybe fell 
>>> into a bad batch.
>>>
>>> Paul Brodek
>>> Hillsdale, NJ USA
>>>
>>> On Monday, September 28, 2020 at 2:58:37 PM UTC-4, Patrick Moore wrote:
>>>>
>>>> Please let us have more ride reports after you get the new bike sorted. 
>>>>
>>>> Curious: Did Joe S braze a wee little "wing" stru

Re: [RBW] Re: Back In The Riv Saddle With A '98 Custom Starck-Riv

2020-09-28 Thread Paul Brodek
Hey Patrick,

My frame doesn't have the Little Wing (Well she's walking/thru the 
clouds...), but I'm pretty sure what you've got there is a cast bb shell, 
with the wing integral to the casting. Can't remember who makes it, but 
I've seen 'em before.

Oh, and I bit the bullet and changed the front rim strip as well. Then the 
tube burst in the stand, pulling it I saw it had already gotten 
distorted/damaged by the Velox tape, so it was waiting for fail.

It should be said, though, that the tubes are Q-Tubes Extralights, made by 
Kenda, which I have used for years without any particular problems. But 
over the past year or two I've had more than a few rim-side failures with 
these. Fortunately usually not on the road. Kinda feel like I maybe fell 
into a bad batch.

Paul Brodek
Hillsdale, NJ USA

On Monday, September 28, 2020 at 2:58:37 PM UTC-4, Patrick Moore wrote:
>
> Please let us have more ride reports after you get the new bike sorted. 
>
> Curious: Did Joe S braze a wee little "wing" strut between chainstay lugs 
> just aft of seat tube and forward of cs bridge? He did on my 1999 gofast 
> fixie custom (half-assed photo attached).
>
> [image: image.png]
>
> On Mon, Sep 28, 2020 at 11:32 AM Paul Brodek  > wrote:
>
>> So I actually got a reasonable ride yesterday on this puppy. Evidence of 
>> late-night/rookie misses was the twisty/sliding saddleundertightened 
>> binder bolt, and the handlebars rotating downward drastically on the first 
>> hard stop---undertensioned stem. The stem was a minor issue because it's a 
>> Dura-Ace stem, which requires a long/thin 6mm wrench to reach the short 
>> internal bolt. That leaves you with the short end of an L-wrench hanging 
>> out the back, which is very difficult to torque to spec. Fortunately I had 
>> a small 9-10mm wrench with one end closed, so I could use that for added 
>> torque. 
>>
>> Then I had a flat about 3min from home, too close to bother with a 
>> roadside fix, so I ignominiously walked it home despite having all the 
>> repair fixin's in my bag. The lightweight tube had punctured due to older 
>> hardened velox tape leaving too deep a scoop above the spoke ferrules, 
>> which I didn't discover till after the longish walk home, but that meant if 
>> I had repaired it on the road, I would have had to redo it when I got home 
>> anyway to replace the rim tape. I do remember during assembly thinking I 
>> should probably replace that rim tape, but when it's late and I'm tired I 
>> usually think that inner voice is stupid. Did the rear at home, in the 
>> stand, still oughta replace the front rim strip as well. Cleaned up some 
>> somewhat oxidized spoke nipples while I was at it.
>>
>> Seat/handlebar slips and flat rear tire followed by a walk home. You know 
>> what? All in all it was still a very nice ride
>>
>> Riv rides good. Didn't particularly "feel fast," yet I made very good 
>> time. It corners faster than I expected, not at all a bad thing. The 30mm 
>> actual width Soma SV SLs felt great, until the rear flat.
>>
>> It felt like it wanted to shimmy pretty quickly if I took my hands off 
>> the bars, but then I remembered the front wheel dish was way off, and...I 
>> hadn't dealt with that.
>>
>> I guess that's what shakedown rides are for.
>>
>> Paul Brodek
>> Hillsdale, NJ USA
>>
>> On Thursday, September 24, 2020 at 2:11:28 PM UTC-4, Paul Brodek wrote:
>>>
>>> Actually, come to think of it, if it was mine there's always the 
>>> possibility there was an intermediary caretaker between me and Trevor.
>>>
>>> I'm pretty sure the color was considered a Burnt Orange. Frame size was 
>>> 58.5cm square c-c, def a bit lower than I like. There were some paint flaws 
>>> down near the seat tube bottle bosses that were sanded away, visible in the 
>>> naked frame photos.
>>>
>>> I have nothing against simplicity, but I think I like the curlier head 
>>> lugs on the '95 Road better than the simpler lines on the Starck.
>>>
>>> Paul Brodek
>>> Hillsdale, NJ USA
>>>
>>> On Thursday, September 24, 2020 at 2:04:21 PM UTC-4, Paul Brodek wrote:
>>>>
>>>> Thanks for linking it, Peter. If Trevor has it now, it went from Peter 
>>>> to me to Trevor.
>>>>
>>>> Peter asked me earlier offlist if the frame had been a little small for 
>>>> me, and looking at my notes on the frame dims I said probably not. But now 
>>>> looking at the built pix o

[RBW] Re: Back In The Riv Saddle With A '98 Custom Starck-Riv

2020-09-28 Thread Paul Brodek
Thanks!

I did forget to mention that shifting the 8spd cassette with a dt friction 
shifter was both less and more annoying than I anticipated. Meaning that I 
had fewer issues and mis-shifts than I expected, so there were a lot of 
"gee, this ain't so bad after all" moments, but when the mis-shifts 
happened---instant rage. Might grin and bear it, might look for an 8spd 
Shimano indexed rear dt shifter, or I could install the 10spd dt Dura-Ace 
dt shifter I have and switch to 10spd in the rear.

The gearing did work well as 1x-granny, and since the route didn't have 
much climbing, I never really needed the 24t ring. I did shift a few times 
just to make sure the chain didn't dump, but didn't actually ride it.

I did order up a 40t Zephyr ring from Peter White to raise the gearing a 
hair. That should also let me use the BBG guard I have on hand in the outer 
position, so it'll look a little less weird.

Paul Brodek
Hillsdale, NJ USA  

On Monday, September 28, 2020 at 2:34:03 PM UTC-4, islaysteve wrote:
>
> That's a great-looking bike and a nice build, Paul.  I'm sure you will get 
> the post-build kinks out in time for the second ride.  Enjoy your new Riv!
>
>
> On Monday, September 28, 2020 at 1:32:31 PM UTC-4 Paul Brodek wrote:
>
>> So I actually got a reasonable ride yesterday on this puppy. Evidence of 
>> late-night/rookie misses was the twisty/sliding saddleundertightened 
>> binder bolt, and the handlebars rotating downward drastically on the first 
>> hard stop---undertensioned stem. The stem was a minor issue because it's a 
>> Dura-Ace stem, which requires a long/thin 6mm wrench to reach the short 
>> internal bolt. That leaves you with the short end of an L-wrench hanging 
>> out the back, which is very difficult to torque to spec. Fortunately I had 
>> a small 9-10mm wrench with one end closed, so I could use that for added 
>> torque. 
>>
>> Then I had a flat about 3min from home, too close to bother with a 
>> roadside fix, so I ignominiously walked it home despite having all the 
>> repair fixin's in my bag. The lightweight tube had punctured due to older 
>> hardened velox tape leaving too deep a scoop above the spoke ferrules, 
>> which I didn't discover till after the longish walk home, but that meant if 
>> I had repaired it on the road, I would have had to redo it when I got home 
>> anyway to replace the rim tape. I do remember during assembly thinking I 
>> should probably replace that rim tape, but when it's late and I'm tired I 
>> usually think that inner voice is stupid. Did the rear at home, in the 
>> stand, still oughta replace the front rim strip as well. Cleaned up some 
>> somewhat oxidized spoke nipples while I was at it.
>>
>> Seat/handlebar slips and flat rear tire followed by a walk home. You know 
>> what? All in all it was still a very nice ride
>>
>> Riv rides good. Didn't particularly "feel fast," yet I made very good 
>> time. It corners faster than I expected, not at all a bad thing. The 30mm 
>> actual width Soma SV SLs felt great, until the rear flat.
>>
>> It felt like it wanted to shimmy pretty quickly if I took my hands off 
>> the bars, but then I remembered the front wheel dish was way off, and...I 
>> hadn't dealt with that.
>>
>> I guess that's what shakedown rides are for.
>>
>> Paul Brodek
>> Hillsdale, NJ USA
>>
>> On Thursday, September 24, 2020 at 2:11:28 PM UTC-4, Paul Brodek wrote:
>>>
>>> Actually, come to think of it, if it was mine there's always the 
>>> possibility there was an intermediary caretaker between me and Trevor.
>>>
>>> I'm pretty sure the color was considered a Burnt Orange. Frame size was 
>>> 58.5cm square c-c, def a bit lower than I like. There were some paint flaws 
>>> down near the seat tube bottle bosses that were sanded away, visible in the 
>>> naked frame photos.
>>>
>>> I have nothing against simplicity, but I think I like the curlier head 
>>> lugs on the '95 Road better than the simpler lines on the Starck.
>>>
>>> Paul Brodek
>>> Hillsdale, NJ USA
>>>
>>> On Thursday, September 24, 2020 at 2:04:21 PM UTC-4, Paul Brodek wrote:
>>>>
>>>> Thanks for linking it, Peter. If Trevor has it now, it went from Peter 
>>>> to me to Trevor.
>>>>
>>>> Peter asked me earlier offlist if the frame had been a little small for 
>>>> me, and looking at my notes on the frame dims I said probably not. But now 
>>>> looking at the built pix on fl

[RBW] Re: Back In The Riv Saddle With A '98 Custom Starck-Riv

2020-09-28 Thread Paul Brodek
So I actually got a reasonable ride yesterday on this puppy. Evidence of 
late-night/rookie misses was the twisty/sliding saddleundertightened 
binder bolt, and the handlebars rotating downward drastically on the first 
hard stop---undertensioned stem. The stem was a minor issue because it's a 
Dura-Ace stem, which requires a long/thin 6mm wrench to reach the short 
internal bolt. That leaves you with the short end of an L-wrench hanging 
out the back, which is very difficult to torque to spec. Fortunately I had 
a small 9-10mm wrench with one end closed, so I could use that for added 
torque. 

Then I had a flat about 3min from home, too close to bother with a roadside 
fix, so I ignominiously walked it home despite having all the repair 
fixin's in my bag. The lightweight tube had punctured due to older hardened 
velox tape leaving too deep a scoop above the spoke ferrules, which I 
didn't discover till after the longish walk home, but that meant if I had 
repaired it on the road, I would have had to redo it when I got home anyway 
to replace the rim tape. I do remember during assembly thinking I should 
probably replace that rim tape, but when it's late and I'm tired I usually 
think that inner voice is stupid. Did the rear at home, in the stand, still 
oughta replace the front rim strip as well. Cleaned up some somewhat 
oxidized spoke nipples while I was at it.

Seat/handlebar slips and flat rear tire followed by a walk home. You know 
what? All in all it was still a very nice ride

Riv rides good. Didn't particularly "feel fast," yet I made very good time. 
It corners faster than I expected, not at all a bad thing. The 30mm actual 
width Soma SV SLs felt great, until the rear flat.

It felt like it wanted to shimmy pretty quickly if I took my hands off the 
bars, but then I remembered the front wheel dish was way off, and...I 
hadn't dealt with that.

I guess that's what shakedown rides are for.

Paul Brodek
Hillsdale, NJ USA

On Thursday, September 24, 2020 at 2:11:28 PM UTC-4, Paul Brodek wrote:
>
> Actually, come to think of it, if it was mine there's always the 
> possibility there was an intermediary caretaker between me and Trevor.
>
> I'm pretty sure the color was considered a Burnt Orange. Frame size was 
> 58.5cm square c-c, def a bit lower than I like. There were some paint flaws 
> down near the seat tube bottle bosses that were sanded away, visible in the 
> naked frame photos.
>
> I have nothing against simplicity, but I think I like the curlier head 
> lugs on the '95 Road better than the simpler lines on the Starck.
>
> Paul Brodek
> Hillsdale, NJ USA
>
> On Thursday, September 24, 2020 at 2:04:21 PM UTC-4, Paul Brodek wrote:
>>
>> Thanks for linking it, Peter. If Trevor has it now, it went from Peter to 
>> me to Trevor.
>>
>> Peter asked me earlier offlist if the frame had been a little small for 
>> me, and looking at my notes on the frame dims I said probably not. But now 
>> looking at the built pix on flickr, yeah, definitely closer to "a little 
>> too little" for me.
>>
>> All I've managed with the new Starck Riv so far is a coupla 
>> round-the-block sweeps, which it handled nicely. I detected slight notes of 
>> lemongrass, with a subtle smoky finish.
>>
>> Paul Brodek
>> Hillsdale, NJ USA
>>
>> On Wednesday, September 23, 2020 at 1:57:12 PM UTC-4, Peter Bridge wrote:
>>>
>>> On Tuesday, September 22, 2020 at 9:12:30 AM UTC-7 foolis...@gmail.com 
>>> wrote:
>>>
>>>> Paul I might have your Riv. What color was it? Size?
>>>
>>>
>>> From my vague memory, kinda caramel maybe?  Maybe with an area that had 
>>> been sanded on the down tube?  Can't remember the color of the head tube.  
>>> Unless PB2 repainted it.
>>>
>>> Oh here we go, it's on Paul's flickr: 
>>>
>>> https://www.flickr.com/photos/26383479@N04/albums/72157637897698005 
>>>
>>> ~pb1   
>>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: Back In The Riv Saddle With A '98 Custom Starck-Riv

2020-09-24 Thread Paul Brodek
Actually, come to think of it, if it was mine there's always the 
possibility there was an intermediary caretaker between me and Trevor.

I'm pretty sure the color was considered a Burnt Orange. Frame size was 
58.5cm square c-c, def a bit lower than I like. There were some paint flaws 
down near the seat tube bottle bosses that were sanded away, visible in the 
naked frame photos.

I have nothing against simplicity, but I think I like the curlier head lugs 
on the '95 Road better than the simpler lines on the Starck.

Paul Brodek
Hillsdale, NJ USA

On Thursday, September 24, 2020 at 2:04:21 PM UTC-4, Paul Brodek wrote:
>
> Thanks for linking it, Peter. If Trevor has it now, it went from Peter to 
> me to Trevor.
>
> Peter asked me earlier offlist if the frame had been a little small for 
> me, and looking at my notes on the frame dims I said probably not. But now 
> looking at the built pix on flickr, yeah, definitely closer to "a little 
> too little" for me.
>
> All I've managed with the new Starck Riv so far is a coupla 
> round-the-block sweeps, which it handled nicely. I detected slight notes of 
> lemongrass, with a subtle smoky finish.
>
> Paul Brodek
> Hillsdale, NJ USA
>
> On Wednesday, September 23, 2020 at 1:57:12 PM UTC-4, Peter Bridge wrote:
>>
>> On Tuesday, September 22, 2020 at 9:12:30 AM UTC-7 foolis...@gmail.com 
>> wrote:
>>
>>> Paul I might have your Riv. What color was it? Size?
>>
>>
>> From my vague memory, kinda caramel maybe?  Maybe with an area that had 
>> been sanded on the down tube?  Can't remember the color of the head tube.  
>> Unless PB2 repainted it.
>>
>> Oh here we go, it's on Paul's flickr: 
>>
>> https://www.flickr.com/photos/26383479@N04/albums/72157637897698005 
>>
>> ~pb1   
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: Back In The Riv Saddle With A '98 Custom Starck-Riv

2020-09-24 Thread Paul Brodek
Thanks for linking it, Peter. If Trevor has it now, it went from Peter to 
me to Trevor.

Peter asked me earlier offlist if the frame had been a little small for me, 
and looking at my notes on the frame dims I said probably not. But now 
looking at the built pix on flickr, yeah, definitely closer to "a little 
too little" for me.

All I've managed with the new Starck Riv so far is a coupla round-the-block 
sweeps, which it handled nicely. I detected slight notes of lemongrass, 
with a subtle smoky finish.

Paul Brodek
Hillsdale, NJ USA

On Wednesday, September 23, 2020 at 1:57:12 PM UTC-4, Peter Bridge wrote:
>
> On Tuesday, September 22, 2020 at 9:12:30 AM UTC-7 foolis...@gmail.com 
> wrote:
>
>> Paul I might have your Riv. What color was it? Size?
>
>
> From my vague memory, kinda caramel maybe?  Maybe with an area that had 
> been sanded on the down tube?  Can't remember the color of the head tube.  
> Unless PB2 repainted it.
>
> Oh here we go, it's on Paul's flickr: 
>
> https://www.flickr.com/photos/26383479@N04/albums/72157637897698005 
>
> ~pb1   
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: FS: NIB Selle Anatomica X2 Saddle, Oxblood/Silver

2020-09-22 Thread Paul Brodek
The saddle has sold, ladies and germs. Thanks!

Paul Brodek
Hillsdale, NJ USA

On Tuesday, September 22, 2020 at 12:12:47 PM UTC-4, Jon Richardson wrote:
>
> Paul,
>
> I would like to purchase this.  Please let me know how to proceed.
>
> Thanks,
> Jon
>
> On Mon, Sep 21, 2020, 8:03 PM Paul Brodek > 
> wrote:
>
>> Apologies if this is a re-post, have been trying to get it to post here 
>> but it seems to disappear
>> PB
>>
>> On Monday, September 21, 2020 at 8:02:42 PM UTC-4, Paul Brodek wrote:
>>>
>>> NIB Selle Anatomica X2 Saddle, Oxblood/Silver: $100 shipped conti USA, 
>>> paypal G/S
>>>
>>> I got this new/unused from the original owner, figuring I'd use it, but 
>>> never did. Never installed, never tensioned, like new.
>>>
>>> This is from the later -2 series, more easily rebuildable with the tops 
>>> bolted to the frame i/o riveted. Swap the top, treat yourself to a titanium 
>>> frame.
>>>
>>> The under-saddle sticker says Oxblood, the box sticker says Black, not 
>>> sure what's up with that. Maybe the original owner had two, and the boxes 
>>> got switched? I have seen ebay listings with Black in the title, and 
>>> Oxblood in the description, sowho knows? Saddle color definitely is 
>>> Oxblood, not Black.
>>>
>>> Let me know if you've got questions. Photos/flickr links below
>>>
>>> More pix near top of Flickr Album:
>>> [url]https://flic.kr/s/aHsk4hRDyg[/url]
>>>
>>> [image: 50351276697_078dab8c55_c.jpg]
>>>
>>> [image: 50350420178_8a33d5d559_c.jpg]
>>>
>>> [image: 50351120806_ac9e3101f8_c.jpg]
>>>
>>> [image: 50351120666_a1eda592e6_c.jpg]
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Paul Brodek
>>> Hillsdale, NJ USA
>>>
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>>  
>> <https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/rbw-owners-bunch/9f8896d2-3977-4375-9343-9ba474afff6do%40googlegroups.com?utm_medium=email&utm_source=footer>
>> .
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: FS: NIB Selle Anatomica X2 Saddle, Oxblood/Silver

2020-09-21 Thread Paul Brodek
Apologies if this is a re-post, have been trying to get it to post here but 
it seems to disappear
PB

On Monday, September 21, 2020 at 8:02:42 PM UTC-4, Paul Brodek wrote:
>
> NIB Selle Anatomica X2 Saddle, Oxblood/Silver: $100 shipped conti USA, 
> paypal G/S
>
> I got this new/unused from the original owner, figuring I'd use it, but 
> never did. Never installed, never tensioned, like new.
>
> This is from the later -2 series, more easily rebuildable with the tops 
> bolted to the frame i/o riveted. Swap the top, treat yourself to a titanium 
> frame.
>
> The under-saddle sticker says Oxblood, the box sticker says Black, not 
> sure what's up with that. Maybe the original owner had two, and the boxes 
> got switched? I have seen ebay listings with Black in the title, and 
> Oxblood in the description, sowho knows? Saddle color definitely is 
> Oxblood, not Black.
>
> Let me know if you've got questions. Photos/flickr links below
>
> More pix near top of Flickr Album:
> [url]https://flic.kr/s/aHsk4hRDyg[/url]
>
> [image: 50351276697_078dab8c55_c.jpg]
>
> [image: 50350420178_8a33d5d559_c.jpg]
>
> [image: 50351120806_ac9e3101f8_c.jpg]
>
> [image: 50351120666_a1eda592e6_c.jpg]
>
>
>
> Paul Brodek
> Hillsdale, NJ USA
>

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Re: [RBW] Back In The Riv Saddle With A '98 Custom Starck-Riv

2020-09-21 Thread Paul Brodek
Thanks, all! I'm happy with how it turned out.

I was in such a rush to put it together that I forgot to measure the bb 
drop and the standover height. The bb drop does look large/low, I figured 
without even measuring that if I tried 650b wheels I'd be scraping pedals 
pretty easily, since the frame probably couldn't fit wider than 42-584 or 
so.

I really oughta get myself one of those Rene Herse tire width guagey 
thingies, if they've still got them.

Paul Brodek
Hillsdale, NJ USA

On Monday, September 21, 2020 at 10:37:50 AM UTC-4, Andy Beichler wrote:
>
> I love that color.  The bottom bracket looks low.  Had Grant started to 
> use the 80mm of drop then or is it just the angle of the picture?
>
> On Monday, September 21, 2020 at 10:11:47 AM UTC-4 Joel wrote:
>
>> Beautiful, enjoy. 
>>
>> On Monday, September 21, 2020 at 12:56:34 AM UTC-4 Andrew Letton wrote:
>>
>>> Lovely build, Paul!
>>> Same year and color as my Riv Road:  1998 Rivendell Road 
>>> <https://www.flickr.com/photos/letton/albums/72157621865809178>
>>>
>>> 1998 Rivendell Road
>>>
>>> Explore this photo album by letton on Flickr!
>>> <https://www.flickr.com/photos/letton/albums/72157621865809178>
>>>
>>> Enjoy the ride!
>>> cheers,
>>> Andrew
>>>
>>>
>>> On Monday, September 21, 2020, 11:03:29 AM GMT+10, Paul Brodek <
>>> pcb@gmail.com> wrote: 
>>>
>>>
>>> Took a little while, but I finally landed Ray Foss' '98 Custom 
>>> Starck-Riv Road frameset. Ray got it from the original owner, but with many 
>>> other awesome mounts to choose from, Ray never managed to build it up. 
>>> Doesn't look like Art M., the original owner, rode it much before selling 
>>> it to Ray. I did manage to build it up, but haven't managed to ride it yet. 
>>> Maybe tomorrow?
>>>
>>> It's only my second Riv, the first was an even earlier '95 Waterford-Riv 
>>> Road. Bought that one from Peter B. maybe 7-8yrs ago, sold it last 
>>> year-ish. If I do the math, gaining 3yrs every Riv buy over an 8yr stretch, 
>>> in about 64yrs I'll have myself a '21! I'm catching up!
>>>
>>> I mulled over the build while reeling it in, decided on this first 
>>> go-round to do a period-correct-ish Riv quasi-tribute, all silver 
>>> components, nothing insanely current. The frame came with Silver dt 
>>> shifters, so they had to stay. Very few silver-rimmed wheelsets under my 
>>> roof, at least ones that are modern-enough to have a 130mm rear OLN. All I 
>>> had was a clean set of Ultegra tri-color hubs on Mavic Reflex SUP. 'Sup? 
>>> Then I found a decent amount of Dura-Ace 7x00-series silver stuff, so 
>>> rder/brakes/cranks/stem are D-A. The top tube is a little on the long side 
>>> for me, 60.5cm, so the D-A stem is only 90mm. Tried a D-A post, but there's 
>>> not a lot of post showing, and the bottom of the flutes on the D-A post sat 
>>> below the lugline, providing a possible water incursion route, so a 
>>> cut-short Thomson Elite works for now. Been saving the green Brooks B-17 
>>> Champion standard for something, turns out it was this.
>>>
>>> I wanted non-aero brake cable routing, but I'm no longer thrilled with 
>>> those smaller vintage lever bodies. Then I remembered a pair of Campy 
>>> C-Record dual-routing levers weresomewhere...and they turned up. 
>>> Pairing them with the D-A 7800 dual-pivots is a little weird, I'm wishing 
>>> the caliper spring tension was higher, but it oughta work OK.
>>>
>>> It's geared for now with a 38/24 compact double, using a Peter 
>>> White-sourced TA Zephyr K tripelizer ring, mounted on the inside position. 
>>> 11-28t 8spd cassette in the rear, so I still get a decent low gear and can 
>>> use the med-cage D-A rder. The Shimano CX-70 fder sits a little high over 
>>> the outer ring, can't get it any lower without scraping the top of the 
>>> chainstay, but it shifts fine in the stand. I didn't have a BBG bashguard 
>>> small enough to use in the outer position, I'd have to raise the fder even 
>>> higher for that, so there's a weird BBG spacer thingie there. Coulda just 
>>> used track chainring bolts, but I guess I was looking for more silvery 
>>> bling, and an unused outer chainring ledge just looks a little lonely.
>>>
>>> The frame's built around 49mm-reach brakes, and the 33mm Soma Supple 
>&g

[RBW] FS: NIB Selle Anatomica X2 Saddle, Oxblood/Silver

2020-09-17 Thread Paul Brodek
NIB Selle Anatomica X2 Saddle, Oxblood/Silver: $100 shipped conti USA, 
paypal G/S

I thought I posted this last night, but I'm not seeing it on the list. My 
sincere apologies if this is a duplicate post.

I got this new/unused from the original owner, figuring I'd use it, but 
never did. Never installed, never tensioned, like new.

The under-saddle sticker says Oxblood, the box sticker says Black, not sure 
what's up with that. Maybe the original owner had two, and the boxes got 
switched? I have seen ebay listings with Black in the title, and Oxblood in 
the description, sowho knows? Saddle color definitely is Oxblood, not 
Black.

Let me know if you've got questions. Photos/flickr links below

More pix at top of Flickr Album:
https://flic.kr/s/aHsk4hRDyg

https://flic.kr/p/2jHnsmi
https://flic.kr/p/2jHi4JJ
https://flic.kr/p/2jHmDY7
https://flic.kr/p/2jHmE1w

Paul Brodek
Hillsdale, NJ USA

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[RBW] FS: NIB Selle Anatomica X2 Saddle, Oxblood/Silver

2020-09-16 Thread Paul Brodek

NIB Selle Anatomica X2 Saddle, Oxblood/Silver: $100 shipped conti USA, 
paypal G/S

I got this new/unused from the original owner, figuring I'd use it, but 
never did. Never installed, never tensioned, like new.

The under-saddle sticker says Oxblood, the box sticker says Black, not sure 
what's up with that. Maybe the original owner had two, and the boxes got 
switched? I have seen ebay listings with Black in the title, and Oxblood in 
the description, sowho knows? Saddle color definitely is Oxblood, not 
Black.

Let me know if you've got questions. Photos/flickr links below

More pix at top of Flickr Album:
https://flic.kr/s/aHsk4hRDyg

https://flic.kr/p/2jHnsmi
https://flic.kr/p/2jHi4JJ
https://flic.kr/p/2jHmDY7
https://flic.kr/p/2jHmE1w

Paul Brodek
Hillsdale, NJ USA

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[RBW] Re: Paul Racer M Calipers F&R/Black/Center Mount/Recessed

2020-09-16 Thread Paul Brodek
 These puppies sold, folks---thanks!

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[RBW] Re: Paul Racer M Calipers F&R/Black/Center Mount/Recessed

2020-09-16 Thread Paul Brodek
Sorry I missed the "FS" in the title. Can't seem to edit this myself?

Also might mention that these are great for 650b conversions, and also for 
fender use due to the fantastic under-caliper clearance.

PB

On Wednesday, September 16, 2020 at 6:12:15 PM UTC-4, Paul Brodek wrote:
>
> Paul Racer M Calipers F&R/Black/Center Mount/Recessed: $210 shipped conti 
> USA; paypal G&S
>
> Note that these are fairly easy to switch to nutted mount with standard M6 
> button-cap bolts.
>
> I swapped out these lightly-used black calipers for a new silver set. 
> Offering these for sale knowing full well I'll probably need them within 
> the next 2-3 months, because that's what always happens.
>
> This is a lightly-used full front-rear set, so an entire bike's worth. I'm 
> including all the new hardware that came with my new silver calipers, so 
> you'll have a clean install. So new brake shoes, new straddle cables, new 
> straddle yokes. Most importantly that means you'll receive not one, but TWO 
> new Paul stickers. You can't have too many Paul stickers.
>
> I'm also including the boxes and instructions the silvers came with, which 
> will make packing everything up a little easier.
>
> Springs/pivots are tight/smooth, all threads are good.
>
> Cosmetically very clean, with a few light smudges/marks. There's some 
> light surface corrosion on a couple of the springs, which is very common.
>
> The rear caliper has a couple of small, shallow sections filed out, maybe 
> to clear fenders or a rack? I got these used, can't recall doing this 
> myself, but at any rate the mod is very minor and has no structural 
> effects. 
>
> Shout with Qs!
>
> A few pix links below, more on flickr:
> https://flic.kr/s/aHsk4hRDyg
>
> https://flic.kr/p/2jH2pjW
> https://flic.kr/p/2jH2piP
> https://flic.kr/p/2jGXQTM
> https://flic.kr/p/2jH3cVH
> https://flic.kr/p/2jH3cUA
> https://flic.kr/p/2jH2p6K
>
>
> Paul Brodek
> Hillsdale, NJ USA
>

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[RBW] Paul Racer M Calipers F&R/Black/Center Mount/Recessed

2020-09-16 Thread Paul Brodek
Paul Racer M Calipers F&R/Black/Center Mount/Recessed: $210 shipped conti 
USA; paypal G&S

Note that these are fairly easy to switch to nutted mount with standard M6 
button-cap bolts.

I swapped out these lightly-used black calipers for a new silver set. 
Offering these for sale knowing full well I'll probably need them within 
the next 2-3 months, because that's what always happens.

This is a lightly-used full front-rear set, so an entire bike's worth. I'm 
including all the new hardware that came with my new silver calipers, so 
you'll have a clean install. So new brake shoes, new straddle cables, new 
straddle yokes. Most importantly that means you'll receive not one, but TWO 
new Paul stickers. You can't have too many Paul stickers.

I'm also including the boxes and instructions the silvers came with, which 
will make packing everything up a little easier.

Springs/pivots are tight/smooth, all threads are good.

Cosmetically very clean, with a few light smudges/marks. There's some light 
surface corrosion on a couple of the springs, which is very common.

The rear caliper has a couple of small, shallow sections filed out, maybe 
to clear fenders or a rack? I got these used, can't recall doing this 
myself, but at any rate the mod is very minor and has no structural 
effects. 

Shout with Qs!

A few pix links below, more on flickr:
https://flic.kr/s/aHsk4hRDyg

https://flic.kr/p/2jH2pjW
https://flic.kr/p/2jH2piP
https://flic.kr/p/2jGXQTM
https://flic.kr/p/2jH3cVH
https://flic.kr/p/2jH3cUA
https://flic.kr/p/2jH2p6K


Paul Brodek
Hillsdale, NJ USA

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[RBW] FS: Paul Racer M Calipers F&R/Black/Center Mount/Recessed

2020-09-16 Thread Paul Brodek
 Paul Racer M Calipers F&R/Black/Center Mount/Recessed: $210 shipped conti 
USA; paypal G&S

Note that these are fairly easy to switch to nutted mount with standard M6 
button-cap bolts.

I swapped out these lightly-used black calipers for a new silver set. 
Offering these for sale knowing full well I'll probably need them within 
the next 2-3 months, because that's what always happens.

This is a lightly-used full front-rear set, so an entire bike's worth. I'm 
including all the new hardware that came with my new silver calipers, so 
you'll have a clean install. So new brake shoes, new straddle cables, new 
straddle yokes. Most importantly that means you'll receive not one, but TWO 
new Paul stickers. You can't have too many Paul stickers.

I'm also including the boxes and instructions the silvers came with, which 
will make packing everything up a little easier.

Springs/pivots are tight/smooth, all threads are good.

Cosmetically very clean, with a few light smudges/marks. There's some light 
surface corrosion on a couple of the springs, which is very common.

The rear caliper has a couple of small, shallow sections filed out, maybe 
to clear fenders or a rack? I got these used, can't recall doing this 
myself, but at any rate the mod is very minor and has no structural 
effects. 

Shout with Qs!

A few pix links below, more on flickr:
https://flic.kr/s/aHsk4hRDyg

https://flic.kr/p/2jH2pjW
https://flic.kr/p/2jH2piP
https://flic.kr/p/2jGXQTM
https://flic.kr/p/2jH3cVH
https://flic.kr/p/2jH3cUA
https://flic.kr/p/2jH2p6K


Paul Brodek
Hillsdale, NJ USA

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[RBW] Re: WTB: TRP Drilled Brake Levers

2020-09-16 Thread Paul Brodek
Sent an offlist PM, got clean silver/black ones available.

Paul Brodek
Hillsdale, NJ USA

On Wednesday, September 16, 2020 at 3:44:30 PM UTC-4, Brian Campbell wrote:
>
> Hi all. If anybody has any to sell, please get in touch.
>
> Thanks!
>

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Re: [RBW] FS: NOS CYPRESS Grand Bois 650bx32

2020-08-28 Thread Paul Brodek
NOS: New Old Stock: usually referring to something no longer available, 
more specifically discontinued, no longer in production
NIB: New In Box: could be currently available item, or limited edition but 
current item
NIP: New In Package: same as NIB
Unused: what it says, not saying it's new, it's not packaged, but appears 
to have never been used

Lots of variables and such here. What does New mean? In some corners, if it 
was purchased by an end user, it's no longer considered New. NOS would have 
to come from a mfr/wholesaler/retailer. Others are more generous with their 
interpretation.

It's easy to claim an Unused item is NOS, but without original packaging 
it's hard to be sure the item is actually new.

Amongst the Geek Tribe, whatever their object of desire, the siren call of 
NOS/NIB is like catnip. Eyes widen, pluses race, alertness spikes, eyeballs 
dart, head motions become frantic...

NOS/NIB generally commands a premium over simply NOS. Some who are actually 
going to use an item don't want to pay a premium for original 
packaging---you can't use the item when it's still in the package. Others 
will pay a steep premium for NIB/NIP. That's why a simply very clean, 
apparently unused Campagnolo Super Record rear derailleur might sell for 
$200, while you can expect to pay $350+ for NIB one. 

Paul Brodek, neither NOS nor NIB
Hillsdale, NJ USA

On Friday, August 28, 2020 at 3:12:41 PM UTC-4, Tirebiter ATX wrote:
>
> What does acronym NOS mean?  Could not find it.
> Thanks!
>
> On Fri, Aug 28, 2020 at 1:12 PM Joel > 
> wrote:
>
>> 2 NOS CYPRESS Grand Bois 650bx32 in original package, stored in dark 
>> basement, not humid, not dry.  
>>
>> $70 shipped or best offer if this seems high.  
>>
>> Thanks 
>>
>> Joel
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> -- 
>>
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>> .
>>
>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: Rearview mirrors: necessary, effective, recommendations?

2020-08-28 Thread Paul Brodek
Pardon the self-reply, but maybe my cheapo mirror offer was on ibob, not 
here? If so, apologies for my grumpiness. Too many forums..

And while I'm typing, I did use eyeglass mirrors, and helmet mirrors, back 
in the day. The eyeglass ones became inconvenient as my eyewear collection 
grew, and as sunglasses started getting weird-shaped frames. And I found 
the helmet ones were always in danger of damage when my helmet was off, 
often needed a bunch of fiddling/adjusting, had a very small viewing image 
that was also way too far away from my skull, and I always had to 
adjust/crane my neck to get the view I wanted.

I find the bar-end position much, much better, and the Sprintechs hold 
their position well while still being easy to adjust. 

Paul Brodek
Hillsdale, NJ USA

On Friday, August 28, 2020 at 2:52:14 PM UTC-4, Paul Brodek wrote:
>
> I'm primarily a drop-bar rider, and my fave is the Spintech bar-end 
> mirror. Have 'em on everything that doesn't have bar-cons, on the left side 
> only. Pretty indispensable for me once I got used to them. On the few 2x/3x 
> vintage bar-con builds I have, I'm constantly looking down for feedback, 
> and seeing only air.
>
> There is an Italian bar-end mirror, evidently named the IRBM, that's more 
> compact and sleeker, which I haven't tried. Looking at it I'd assume 
> there'd be more body blockage, since it has both less viewing area than the 
> Sprintech, and isn't articulated. But since I haven't use one, I don't know 
> that for sure.
>
> There's also a Berthoud bar-end mirror that looks gorgeous, which Rene 
> Herse carries. It also has less viewing area than the Sprintech, but looks 
> like maybe less body blockage than the Italian one?
>
> I've used a whole bunch of cheaper-but-similar-looking mirrors to the 
> Sprintech, including CycleAware, and they all unfailingly break. The mirror 
> stem is too thin, or the material's too cheap, or too rigid, or all of the 
> above. Anyhow, they always break. 
>
> We had this discussion a while back, when I still had a pile of the cheapo 
> mirrors that I replaced before failure, and I offered them here for folks 
> to try at $5/pr, just to cover shipping. Nobody took me up on the offer, so 
> I threw them all out. So now if you want to try the cheapos to see if 
> they'll hold up for you, you'll have to pay retail.
>
> Harumph.
>
> Forgive me, evidently I'm a little hangry.
>
> Some overviews here:
> https://www.thegeekycyclist.com/best-things/bike-mirrors/
>
> Paul Brodek
> Hillsdale, NJ USA
>
> On Friday, August 28, 2020 at 12:21:36 PM UTC-4, Matthew Williams wrote:
>>
>> Hi everyone,
>>
>> I'm thinking about getting a small, bar-mounted rearview mirror. For the 
>> past forty-five years I've ridden without one and I'm in the habit of 
>> constantly checking my surroundings, but after riding in traffic for 
>> several months I'm thinking a mirror might be a good idea.
>>
>> Do you use a mirror, or is it unnecessary? Does it help, or is it just a 
>> gadget that isn't a substitute for turning your head? What are your 
>> recommendations for rearview mirrors? 
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: Rearview mirrors: necessary, effective, recommendations?

2020-08-28 Thread Paul Brodek
I'm primarily a drop-bar rider, and my fave is the Spintech bar-end mirror. 
Have 'em on everything that doesn't have bar-cons, on the left side only. 
Pretty indispensable for me once I got used to them. On the few 2x/3x 
vintage bar-con builds I have, I'm constantly looking down for feedback, 
and seeing only air.

There is an Italian bar-end mirror, evidently named the IRBM, that's more 
compact and sleeker, which I haven't tried. Looking at it I'd assume 
there'd be more body blockage, since it has both less viewing area than the 
Sprintech, and isn't articulated. But since I haven't use one, I don't know 
that for sure.

There's also a Berthoud bar-end mirror that looks gorgeous, which Rene 
Herse carries. It also has less viewing area than the Sprintech, but looks 
like maybe less body blockage than the Italian one?

I've used a whole bunch of cheaper-but-similar-looking mirrors to the 
Sprintech, including CycleAware, and they all unfailingly break. The mirror 
stem is too thin, or the material's too cheap, or too rigid, or all of the 
above. Anyhow, they always break. 

We had this discussion a while back, when I still had a pile of the cheapo 
mirrors that I replaced before failure, and I offered them here for folks 
to try at $5/pr, just to cover shipping. Nobody took me up on the offer, so 
I threw them all out. So now if you want to try the cheapos to see if 
they'll hold up for you, you'll have to pay retail.

Harumph.

Forgive me, evidently I'm a little hangry.

Some overviews here:
https://www.thegeekycyclist.com/best-things/bike-mirrors/

Paul Brodek
Hillsdale, NJ USA

On Friday, August 28, 2020 at 12:21:36 PM UTC-4, Matthew Williams wrote:
>
> Hi everyone,
>
> I'm thinking about getting a small, bar-mounted rearview mirror. For the 
> past forty-five years I've ridden without one and I'm in the habit of 
> constantly checking my surroundings, but after riding in traffic for 
> several months I'm thinking a mirror might be a good idea.
>
> Do you use a mirror, or is it unnecessary? Does it help, or is it just a 
> gadget that isn't a substitute for turning your head? What are your 
> recommendations for rearview mirrors? 
>

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[RBW] Re: WTB: Suntour front derailleur double

2020-08-20 Thread Paul Brodek
Feel free to disregard if you've already scored. But I generally want to 
know what chainrings somebody's shifting, and maybe a little bit about the 
frame, before matching them with a front derailleur. Yeah, most anything 
can shift most anything, but if you're running a subcompactish 46/30 or 
such, one of the newer fders designed for smaller outer rings might work 
better. Shifting can be a little cleaner when the cage radius matches the 
rings better, and the shorter cages can help avoid grief. Like, fer 
instance, if you're trying to run a smaller outer ring on a bike with 
above-bb der cable guides, sometimes a longer vintage fder cage rear 
section hits the rder cable before you can get the fder low enough over the 
outer ring. Ask me how I know

I'm thinking you were looking for subcompact cranks, but I'm fuzzy on what 
you actually landed, and can't recall what frame all this stuff is going on.

Paul Brodek
Hillsdale, NJ USA

On Wednesday, August 19, 2020 at 10:58:43 AM UTC-4, Joel wrote:
>
> Looking for a nice (NOS) double front derailleur. Open to other vintage 
> brands
>
>

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[RBW] Re: FS: Gunnar Crosshairs '11 Frame/Fork/Complete 62c-t x 59.5c-c

2020-08-15 Thread Paul Brodek
Bumpelstiltskin.

On Thursday, July 16, 2020 at 9:53:40 PM UTC-4, Paul Brodek wrote:
>
> Gunnar Crosshairs '11 62c-t st x 59.5c-c ht: $1,400 picked up w/in 50mi of 
> NYC Metro area; I'm not considering shipping at the moment due to hassle 
> and covid stuff...
>
> This is a very low-mileage 2011 Gunnar Crosshairs frame and matching steel 
> fork, with complete 1x build, Charcoal Silver (kinda Gray). Very nice 
> rider, I just have too many very similar bikes and not enough trail/gravel 
> to justify having so many. And need $$$ to land my white whale...
>
> Original build/spec sheet attached. Basic dims:
> ST: 62.0cm c-t, 56.5cm c-c, 60.6cm theo
> TT: 59.5cm c-c
> HT: 189mm
> Stack: 632mm
> Reach: 401mm
> Saddle Height in Pix: 81cm
> Standover: 34"
> BB Drop: 70mm
> 130mm x 100mm; QR
> 27.2mm post
> ST: 73-deg
> HT: 72.5-deg
> Tire Clearance: true 700x38mm max at rear
>
> The Crosshairs has been in Waterford's/Gunnar's line for a long time. I'm 
> not familiar with the early geometry, this one is what I'd call 'crovel? I 
> just made that up...Quick enough for 'cross, but a little more groad-ish 
> and versatile than a true 'cross race frame; road-like 70mm bb drop i/o 
> true-cross 55-65mm, for example. Creature comforts like dual bottle cages, 
> "normal" cable routing, rack/fender bosses (but not under seatstay bridge 
> or crown), brazed-on rear housing stop. I think current spec fits a little 
> wider tire, and drop is increased to 75mm. 
>
> Rides/handles very nicely, both on tarmac and trail. We don't have gnarly 
> gravel around here, but we do have upjutting, sharp and annoying Jersey 
> rocks; Crosshairs handles it all well.
>
> I've got well under 1,000mi on it, after almost 10yrs, so, yeah, too many 
> damn bikes. One small paint chip on the top of the drive-side chainstay, a 
> smaller one on the non-drive side, and a very thin scratch-line from the 
> top of a front derailleur scratch. Otherwise pretty much clean and sparkly 
> like new. No dents, dings, scrapes, pings, pecks, yadda yadda yadda.
>
> Majority of the parts are either new or near-new, mostly unused.
>
> Built 1x with medium-high parts:
> SRAM Rival 11spd 1x brifters (near-new)
> SRAM Rival 2.1 rder - GX (near-new)
> Shimano FC-700 crankarms 175mm; 36t ring w/BBG bash guard (near-new)
> SRAM 1171 11spd chain (near-new)
> SunRace 11-32 11spd cassette (new)
> Shimano Ultegra 6800 hubs/H+Sons Archetype rims (near-new; one small 
> fell-over ding on rear rim, non-drive side)
> Vuelta qr skewers (new)
> Panaracer Pasela 700x35 tires (new)
> Avid Shorty Ultimate cantis (clean)
> Thomson Elite seatpost (some marks/zigs)
> Specialized Toupe saddle 155 (some wear)
> Thomson seatpost collar (near-new)
> Nitto B-177/Noodle 48cm bars (light marks)
> Nitto UI-5GX stem 110mm (near-new)
> Tektro cross levers (near-new)
> FSA sealed headset
> Shimano BB-R60 bb
> Generic-ish pinned platform pedals
> What'd I forget?
>
> A new Crosshairs frame/fork is $1,450 these days, not sure how long 
> Waterford's queue is at the moment. 
>
> Some pix and stuff attached, flickr albums here:
> https://flic.kr/s/aHsk4hRDyg
> https://flic.kr/s/aHsjDFzZCu (this one has more pix, included prev builds)
>
> Paul Brodek
> Hillsdale, NJ USA
>
> [image: 50120053868_7a8e9eab2d_c.jpg]
>
> [image: 50120055443_c7ce81462a_c.jpg]
>
> [image: 50120056733_1405c28eb7_c.jpg]
>
> [image: 50120620976_45274a6dc3_c.jpg]
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Grand Bois Cypres 700 x 30 substitutes?

2020-08-15 Thread Paul Brodek
Forgive the self-reply, just wanted to add a data chunk.

Checked two different Soma SV SL 33s on vintage Mavic MA40 rims, spec 
13.5mm internal width, and got a pretty sold 30mm at 80psi. So 30mm wide on 
13.5mm rims, 33mm on 19mm rims. 

Thus my disappointment at the SV SL 28s being 27mm on 13mm rims.

The 33s are "accurate on wide/undersized" and the 28s are "accurate on 
narrow/oversized." 

I just got some Vittoria Corsa Graphene+ 28mm skinwalls for the Merckx. If 
they're too wide/tall, it'll have to be the Conti 5k blackwalls. Was hoping 
for skinwalls on the Merckx, but I'm not willing to throw more money at 
Veloflex or something else, especially considering I don't have many/any 
other bikes this tight in the herd.

Paul Brodek
Hillsdale, NJ USA

On Friday, August 14, 2020 at 11:44:55 PM UTC-4, Paul Brodek wrote:
>
> Hey Aaron,
>
> This could turn into another of my tire rants, but it's getting late and 
> I'm getting sleepy.
>
> All's I'm gonna say right now is, I can no longer simply use the term 
> "accurate" in regard to labeled tire widths. Actual tire width is dependent 
> on the tire itself, natch, but also the width of the rim and the final tire 
> pressure. Since I started dabbling in vintage builds again, my rims now 
> range from 13mm internal width (Mavic Open 4 CD) to 21mm (HED Belgium+). 
> That 8mm width differential results in significant differences in actual 
> tire widths. 
>
> Luckily I don't have any wide-ass gravel/all-road/atb rims, which can make 
> 21mm look skinny. Then I'd be making myself even nutsier.
>
> So now I have to use a whole bunch of qualifiers: "accurate on narrower 
> rims" or "accurate on wider rims." I think of "accurate on narrower rims" 
> as "oversized," and "accurate on wider rims" as "undersized," but that 
> still only has meaning when you're including rim widths in the discussion. 
> I suppose that's relatively understandable, but if the tire mfrs would just 
> standardize their width labeling, life would be so much easier.
>
> The tire labeling doesn't tell us what rim width they're using to measure 
> the width, or a what tire pressure they're measuring. There's also the 
> issue that tires sometimes pop out of new molds either a little 
> undersized/oversized from what the designers intended, which only compounds 
> (is that pun-ish? punish??) the problem. 622-33-19-80 (622 tire is 33mm on 
> 19mm-width rim at 80psi) could be what's in the mold, but what happens when 
> the tire pops out and ps! it's actually 31mm or 35mm at 19/80?
>
> End of rant.
>
> In general I find the wider Soma SVs to be accurate on wider rims, or a 
> little undersized, so the 33s will reach 33mm on 19-21mm-ish internal-width 
> rims and normal/high-ish riding pressures. I just checked one on a 19mm 
> Belguim+ rim, 21mm internal width, and it was just a hair over 33mm (like 
> 33.1-33.2mm) at 80psi. If you're using narrower rims, and/or running lower 
> pressure, they should be a little bit narrower.
>
> There could be sample variation, and also variation within the line. I'd 
> never used Supple Vitesse 28s, but just got a pair hoping they'd be 
> undersized enough to work on my Merckx, which has the 19mm Mavic Open 4 CD 
> rims. I figured if they were like the 33s, and wouldn't hit 28mm till they 
> got on wide rims, they shouldn't get above 26.5mm or so on a 13mm rim. They 
> wound up pretty much at 27.0-27.4mm on those 13mm rims, which was a good 
> 0.5-1.0mm too wide/tall for the Merckx. If they're only 1mm "undersized" on 
> 13mm rims, they're going to be oversized on 19-21mm rims. I haven't tried 
> them on a wider rim yet to see how wide they get, might get around to it 
> before the weekend is out.
>
> Can't help you much with comparative flat results. Hopefully the tire gods 
> won't be listening when I say I don't puncture often. And I mostly ride the 
> SLs, so I don't have a basis to make a great comparison.
>
> Paul Brodek
> Hillsdale, NJ USA  
>
> On Thursday, August 13, 2020 at 2:10:00 AM UTC-4, Aaron Thomas wrote:
>>
>> Paul, 
>>
>> Regarding the Soma Supple Vitesse tires, how accurate are the size 
>> designations when inflated? Or perhaps more to the point, if you have used 
>> the 33 mm, is it truly in the ballpark of 33? I bought some Challenge tires 
>> labeled 33 mm but they inflated to nearly 37 mm! 
>>
>> Secondly, in your experience, how puncture prone is the extralight 
>> version compared to the standard version?
>>
>> Thanks,
>> Aaron 
&

[RBW] Re: Grand Bois Cypres 700 x 30 substitutes?

2020-08-15 Thread Paul Brodek
Wow, that is mega-weird, though I am kinda remembering hearing/seeing that 
creeping problem before, on a forum. Can't recall if it was for the same 
brand/tire, though.

Maybe the fact that you didn't have trouble mounting them was a sign? IE, 
Challenge tires need a tighter fit to prevent creeping? Couldn't guess 
why/how/huh?

Paul Brodek
Hillsdale, NJ USA

On Friday, August 14, 2020 at 11:58:39 PM UTC-4, Nick Payne wrote:
>
> Re the Challenge Strada Bianca 700 x 30, I didn't have problems mounting 
> them, but I had to retire them because the braking force was making the 
> tyres gradually creep around the rim until the valve got ripped out of the 
> tube. The rims are Mavic MA2 - been using them for years with multiple 
> other brands of tyre with no such problem, and the GP5000 700x32 I fitted 
> after removing the Strada Bianca tyres didn't have the problem when 
> inflated to the same pressure. Here's what the wheel would look like 
> after a ride of 40-50km, and the valve was straight at the start of the 
> ride:
>
>
> <https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/HOpdBTbT98u0SvDlHnVWG5M8taZcvegu5kVwBvQKHI3eau_LikjqME1qsqWtlrVEGn-vQMyf8qJAs4us0QXcTbg_HXoN8CLakKvBkuzRid51_3VGRXfSY36_aQzLXACLksoXf-Bq1Zo=w2400>
>
> Nick
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Grand Bois Cypres 700 x 30 substitutes?

2020-08-14 Thread Paul Brodek
Hey Aaron,

This could turn into another of my tire rants, but it's getting late and 
I'm getting sleepy.

All's I'm gonna say right now is, I can no longer simply use the term 
"accurate" in regard to labeled tire widths. Actual tire width is dependent 
on the tire itself, natch, but also the width of the rim and the final tire 
pressure. Since I started dabbling in vintage builds again, my rims now 
range from 13mm internal width (Mavic Open 4 CD) to 21mm (HED Belgium+). 
That 8mm width differential results in significant differences in actual 
tire widths. 

Luckily I don't have any wide-ass gravel/all-road/atb rims, which can make 
21mm look skinny. Then I'd be making myself even nutsier.

So now I have to use a whole bunch of qualifiers: "accurate on narrower 
rims" or "accurate on wider rims." I think of "accurate on narrower rims" 
as "oversized," and "accurate on wider rims" as "undersized," but that 
still only has meaning when you're including rim widths in the discussion. 
I suppose that's relatively understandable, but if the tire mfrs would just 
standardize their width labeling, life would be so much easier.

The tire labeling doesn't tell us what rim width they're using to measure 
the width, or a what tire pressure they're measuring. There's also the 
issue that tires sometimes pop out of new molds either a little 
undersized/oversized from what the designers intended, which only compounds 
(is that pun-ish? punish??) the problem. 622-33-19-80 (622 tire is 33mm on 
19mm-width rim at 80psi) could be what's in the mold, but what happens when 
the tire pops out and ps! it's actually 31mm or 35mm at 19/80?

End of rant.

In general I find the wider Soma SVs to be accurate on wider rims, or a 
little undersized, so the 33s will reach 33mm on 19-21mm-ish internal-width 
rims and normal/high-ish riding pressures. I just checked one on a 19mm 
Belguim+ rim, 21mm internal width, and it was just a hair over 33mm (like 
33.1-33.2mm) at 80psi. If you're using narrower rims, and/or running lower 
pressure, they should be a little bit narrower.

There could be sample variation, and also variation within the line. I'd 
never used Supple Vitesse 28s, but just got a pair hoping they'd be 
undersized enough to work on my Merckx, which has the 19mm Mavic Open 4 CD 
rims. I figured if they were like the 33s, and wouldn't hit 28mm till they 
got on wide rims, they shouldn't get above 26.5mm or so on a 13mm rim. They 
wound up pretty much at 27.0-27.4mm on those 13mm rims, which was a good 
0.5-1.0mm too wide/tall for the Merckx. If they're only 1mm "undersized" on 
13mm rims, they're going to be oversized on 19-21mm rims. I haven't tried 
them on a wider rim yet to see how wide they get, might get around to it 
before the weekend is out.

Can't help you much with comparative flat results. Hopefully the tire gods 
won't be listening when I say I don't puncture often. And I mostly ride the 
SLs, so I don't have a basis to make a great comparison.

Paul Brodek
Hillsdale, NJ USA  

On Thursday, August 13, 2020 at 2:10:00 AM UTC-4, Aaron Thomas wrote:
>
> Paul, 
>
> Regarding the Soma Supple Vitesse tires, how accurate are the size 
> designations when inflated? Or perhaps more to the point, if you have used 
> the 33 mm, is it truly in the ballpark of 33? I bought some Challenge tires 
> labeled 33 mm but they inflated to nearly 37 mm! 
>
> Secondly, in your experience, how puncture prone is the extralight version 
> compared to the standard version?
>
> Thanks,
> Aaron 
>
> On Tuesday, June 23, 2020 at 5:35:52 PM UTC-7, Paul Brodek wrote:
>>
>> You can order from Scott in Mpls, as already mentioned, or buy from him 
>> on ebay. He's always got listings for tires there, makes it handy to see 
>> what he may have in stock.
>>
>> Ordering direct from Grand Bois has been mostly smooth for me. Recent 
>> covid-related shipping issues have cropped up, they switched from EMS to 
>> DHL when delays kicked in, not sure what they're doing now, but Japan seems 
>> to be getting back to a quasi-normal.
>>
>> Nobody's mentioned the Soma Supple Vitesse tires, which are another 
>> high-zoot Panaracer OE product for a US-based brand/company. I use 'em a 
>> lot, like 'em a lot. They have std and extralight versions, and are 
>> generally less expensive than Rene Herse. You can buy direct, might help to 
>> wait for one of their occasional/seasonal sales if you're not in a rush. 
>> ModernBike seems to have the lowest everyday price on them.
>>
>> The Challenge tires are also very nice. Just be aware they are "open 
>> tubular

[RBW] Re: FS: Gunnar Crosshairs '11 Frame/Fork/Complete 62c-t x 59.5c-c

2020-08-06 Thread Paul Brodek
Still looking for a new home.

On Sunday, July 26, 2020 at 12:08:08 PM UTC-4, Paul Brodek wrote:
>
> Nibbles are none, so price reduction to $1,250 
>
> On Thursday, July 16, 2020 at 9:53:40 PM UTC-4, Paul Brodek wrote:
>>
>> Gunnar Crosshairs '11 62c-t st x 59.5c-c ht: $1,400 picked up w/in 50mi 
>> of NYC Metro area; I'm not considering shipping at the moment due to hassle 
>> and covid stuff...
>>
>> This is a very low-mileage 2011 Gunnar Crosshairs frame and matching 
>> steel fork, with complete 1x build, Charcoal Silver (kinda Gray). Very nice 
>> rider, I just have too many very similar bikes and not enough trail/gravel 
>> to justify having so many. And need $$$ to land my white whale...
>>
>> Original build/spec sheet attached. Basic dims:
>> ST: 62.0cm c-t, 56.5cm c-c, 60.6cm theo
>> TT: 59.5cm c-c
>> HT: 189mm
>> Stack: 632mm
>> Reach: 401mm
>> Saddle Height in Pix: 81cm
>> Standover: 34"
>> BB Drop: 70mm
>> 130mm x 100mm; QR
>> 27.2mm post
>> ST: 73-deg
>> HT: 72.5-deg
>> Tire Clearance: true 700x38mm max at rear
>>
>> The Crosshairs has been in Waterford's/Gunnar's line for a long time. I'm 
>> not familiar with the early geometry, this one is what I'd call 'crovel? I 
>> just made that up...Quick enough for 'cross, but a little more groad-ish 
>> and versatile than a true 'cross race frame; road-like 70mm bb drop i/o 
>> true-cross 55-65mm, for example. Creature comforts like dual bottle cages, 
>> "normal" cable routing, rack/fender bosses (but not under seatstay bridge 
>> or crown), brazed-on rear housing stop. I think current spec fits a little 
>> wider tire, and drop is increased to 75mm. 
>>
>> Rides/handles very nicely, both on tarmac and trail. We don't have gnarly 
>> gravel around here, but we do have upjutting, sharp and annoying Jersey 
>> rocks; Crosshairs handles it all well.
>>
>> I've got well under 1,000mi on it, after almost 10yrs, so, yeah, too many 
>> damn bikes. One small paint chip on the top of the drive-side chainstay, a 
>> smaller one on the non-drive side, and a very thin scratch-line from the 
>> top of a front derailleur scratch. Otherwise pretty much clean and sparkly 
>> like new. No dents, dings, scrapes, pings, pecks, yadda yadda yadda.
>>
>> Majority of the parts are either new or near-new, mostly unused.
>>
>> Built 1x with medium-high parts:
>> SRAM Rival 11spd 1x brifters (near-new)
>> SRAM Rival 2.1 rder - GX (near-new)
>> Shimano FC-700 crankarms 175mm; 36t ring w/BBG bash guard (near-new)
>> SRAM 1171 11spd chain (near-new)
>> SunRace 11-32 11spd cassette (new)
>> Shimano Ultegra 6800 hubs/H+Sons Archetype rims (near-new; one small 
>> fell-over ding on rear rim, non-drive side)
>> Vuelta qr skewers (new)
>> Panaracer Pasela 700x35 tires (new)
>> Avid Shorty Ultimate cantis (clean)
>> Thomson Elite seatpost (some marks/zigs)
>> Specialized Toupe saddle 155 (some wear)
>> Thomson seatpost collar (near-new)
>> Nitto B-177/Noodle 48cm bars (light marks)
>> Nitto UI-5GX stem 110mm (near-new)
>> Tektro cross levers (near-new)
>> FSA sealed headset
>> Shimano BB-R60 bb
>> Generic-ish pinned platform pedals
>> What'd I forget?
>>
>> A new Crosshairs frame/fork is $1,450 these days, not sure how long 
>> Waterford's queue is at the moment. 
>>
>> Some pix and stuff attached, flickr albums here:
>> https://flic.kr/s/aHsk4hRDyg
>> https://flic.kr/s/aHsjDFzZCu (this one has more pix, included prev 
>> builds)
>>
>> Paul Brodek
>> Hillsdale, NJ USA
>>
>> [image: 50120053868_7a8e9eab2d_c.jpg]
>>
>> [image: 50120055443_c7ce81462a_c.jpg]
>>
>> [image: 50120056733_1405c28eb7_c.jpg]
>>
>> [image: 50120620976_45274a6dc3_c.jpg]
>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: Paul Netro-Retro Cantilevers & Straddle Cable Height: where is your happy place?

2020-07-29 Thread Paul Brodek
Not to be automatically contrarian, but from a foot/heel clearance 
standpoint, usual usage is low-profile Touring in the rear to maximize heel 
clearance, with the Neo-Retros up front, where clearance isn't an issue. 
Plus the Neo-Retros in front look much cooler. 

I think the low-profile cantis were generally designed to maximize heel 
clearance, not for performance reasons. In fact, on Paul's website the 
Touring is described thusly:
"The Touring Canti is a powerful cantilever brake with a similar design to 
the Neo-Retro <http://paulcomp.com//shop/components/neo-retro/>, but with 
the arms angled upward. This gives the brake a much narrower profile 
without significantly reducing stopping power."

As for the shoe/arm spacing, isn't that also somewhat dependent on the 
boss-boss spacing? Relatively narrow boss placement means the wide spacers 
may not work at all behind the shoes, while relatively wide boss spacing 
may require using the wider spacers to avoid the arms diving under the rims 
during braking.

Or am I missing something?

Paul Brodek
Hillsdale, NJ USA

On Tuesday, July 28, 2020 at 4:24:59 PM UTC-4, lconley wrote:
>
> My understanding of the math is that the shorter and straighter the 
> transverse cable, the more mechanical advantage for both wide angle 
> (Neo-Retro) and medium angle (Touring) cantilevers, just more so for the 
> medium angle, but it still helps the wide angle. If you have both, put the 
> Touring cantilevers on the front where most of the braking is done and 
> the Neo-Retros on the rear.
>
> The distance between the arm and the pad is also important, make sure that 
> the narrow spacers are on the inside between the pad and arm and the wide 
> spacers are on the outside of the arm, I believe that this is more 
> important on the Neo-Retro wide angle models. This rotates the wide angle 
> arm up so that its geometry is ever so slightly closer to the medium angle 
> arm geometry.
>
> Laing
> Delray Beach FL
>
>
>>>

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[RBW] Re: Weird handlebar idea

2020-07-29 Thread Paul Brodek
I'm sorry to be dense, but I'm having trouble visualizing this. You can sit 
up and change your back angle with drop bars and 'cross interrupter levers. 
How is that different from what you're wanting to accomplish? Do you want 
to keep your hands/wrists at the same angle that they would be on the hoods?

Paul Brodek
Hillsdale, NJ USA

[image: Kelly Knobby-X w-Cross Levers - Med.jpg]

[image: Gunnar '11 Crosshairs w-Cross Levers - Med .jpg]




On Tuesday, July 28, 2020 at 11:48:51 AM UTC-4, Zack Medow wrote:
>
> Ok so for me the perfect road handlebar would allow me to run drop bar 
> break levers in the typical way for “endurance” riding, then with back 
> sweep to allow me to sit up and change my back angle. Basically I’m 
> visualizing this as an albastache bar but with the break levers vertical 
> instead of horizontal. Or like a dirt drop, but with all the hand positions 
> existing on the same plane. 
>
> I could see how you’d do this by bending the tubes down in the way you 
> typically would on a drop bar, and then sideways and back for the sit-up 
> position. Has anyone ever seen a bar like this? Is this a very stupid idea? 

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