Re: [RBW] An attempted RoadUno reconfiguration failure

[Ray Varella]

Mostly out of curiosity Bill,
In the decades I’ve had fixed gear bikes I have yet to flip a wheel despite 
having a flip flop hub. 
I bought a Roaduno and I’ve been riding a lot and have debated putting a 
tensioner on it and there’s the option of a dos eno. 
I’ll likely stick with it as a single speed until the freewheel dies. 

Ray

On Wednesday, October 9, 2024 at 11:50:08 AM UTC-7 Bill Lindsay wrote:

> If I ever I build a bike with a single chain ring, I'll report back.  Do 
> you have a reason to believe why it wouldn't be quite?  Or quiet?  We're 
> talking about a 3/32" chain, aka a derailleur chain.  
>
> Bill Lindsay
>
> On Tuesday, October 8, 2024 at 9:54:35 PM UTC-7 Ray Varella wrote:
>
>> One possible reason is not knowing the doubles and singles use the same 
>> body. 
>> Up until I read this post, I was not aware the parts were 
>> interchangeable. 
>>
>> With a single chainring up front, is the chain line quite in both cogs?
>> Ray
>>
>> On Tuesday, October 8, 2024 at 8:49:44 PM UTC-7 Bill Lindsay wrote:
>>
>>> For those following the saga, there's an update.  I received a 16/18 
>>> drive ring on warranty and bought a 17/19 to restore my worn out 18T 
>>> freewheel.  Both those new freewheels are built up and ready to use.  
>>>
>>> Here's a weird pricing anomaly:  A single White Industries ENO freewheel 
>>> is around $120, which is premier freewheel pricing.  A DOS ENO goes for 
>>> $150.  That's a $30 premium for a second gear, which seems reasonable.  
>>>
>>> For a replacement outer drive ring/cog, a single is $62 and a double is 
>>> $74.  That's a $12 premium for a second gear.  
>>>
>>> If anybody EVER had a worn out ENO freewheel, why would you ever NOT buy 
>>> a DOS ENO outer ring?  I can't think of a reason.  
>>>
>>> Bill Lindsay
>>> El Cerrito, CA
>>>
>>> On Monday, September 30, 2024 at 11:03:20 AM UTC-7 Bill Lindsay wrote:
>>>
>>>> White Industries is a full on machine shop there in Petaluma.  
>>>>
>>>> They are not set up to re-work a part.  Particularly not a discontinued 
>>>> part.  If they let me keep the bad one, I'll attempt the rework on my own. 
>>>>  I'm in the process of buying a 17/19 drive ring for one freewheel, and 
>>>> getting a warranty 16/18 for the other.  
>>>>
>>>> BL in EC
>>>>
>>>> On Monday, September 30, 2024 at 10:54:38 AM UTC-7 Ray Varella wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> Hey Bill,
>>>>> Out of curiosity, do you know if WI machines the cogs in their 
>>>>> Petaluma shop?
>>>>> If so, would it be possible to send it to them to machined into spec. 
>>>>>
>>>>> When I’ve been picking up freight Nextdoor to them, it looks like they 
>>>>> have a pretty well setup shop onsite. 
>>>>> It might be worth asking since that configuration is no longer 
>>>>> available. 
>>>>>
>>>>> Ray
>>>>>
>>>>> On Monday, September 30, 2024 at 10:19:14 AM UTC-7 Bill Lindsay wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>> Front chain line on a double is the imaginary mid-point between the 
>>>>>> two rings.  You're using a 3/32" derailleur chain.  As long as you are 
>>>>>> splitting the difference you are already doing MUCH better than 
>>>>>> anybody's 
>>>>>> derailleur bike with respect to chain line.  
>>>>>>
>>>>>> To MEASURE chainlink, you use a caliper.  A very cheap one is fine. 
>>>>>>  Like this:  
>>>>>> https://www.acehardware.com/departments/tools/measure-and-marking-tools/measuring-devices/20970
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Measure from the inside edge of the drive side rear drop out to the 
>>>>>> center line of the cog.  That distance is X.  The chainline is (OLD/2) - 
>>>>>> X. 
>>>>>> So on my RoadUno, the OLD is 120mm, and X is 16mm, so the rear chain 
>>>>>> line 
>>>>>> is (120/2) - 16 = 44mm which is vanilla "road" chain line.  
>>>>>>
>>>>>> In front measure the distance from the seat tube to the mid line 
>>>>>> between the two rings.  That distance is Y.  The chainline is STdiam/2 + 
>>>>>> Y. 
>>>>>>  So on my RoadUno, that Y distance is 28mm and the seat tube

Re: [RBW] An attempted RoadUno reconfiguration failure

[Ray Varella]

One possible reason is not knowing the doubles and singles use the same 
body. 
Up until I read this post, I was not aware the parts were interchangeable. 

With a single chainring up front, is the chain line quite in both cogs?
Ray

On Tuesday, October 8, 2024 at 8:49:44 PM UTC-7 Bill Lindsay wrote:

> For those following the saga, there's an update.  I received a 16/18 drive 
> ring on warranty and bought a 17/19 to restore my worn out 18T freewheel. 
>  Both those new freewheels are built up and ready to use.  
>
> Here's a weird pricing anomaly:  A single White Industries ENO freewheel 
> is around $120, which is premier freewheel pricing.  A DOS ENO goes for 
> $150.  That's a $30 premium for a second gear, which seems reasonable.  
>
> For a replacement outer drive ring/cog, a single is $62 and a double is 
> $74.  That's a $12 premium for a second gear.  
>
> If anybody EVER had a worn out ENO freewheel, why would you ever NOT buy a 
> DOS ENO outer ring?  I can't think of a reason.  
>
> Bill Lindsay
> El Cerrito, CA
>
> On Monday, September 30, 2024 at 11:03:20 AM UTC-7 Bill Lindsay wrote:
>
>> White Industries is a full on machine shop there in Petaluma.  
>>
>> They are not set up to re-work a part.  Particularly not a discontinued 
>> part.  If they let me keep the bad one, I'll attempt the rework on my own. 
>>  I'm in the process of buying a 17/19 drive ring for one freewheel, and 
>> getting a warranty 16/18 for the other.  
>>
>> BL in EC
>>
>> On Monday, September 30, 2024 at 10:54:38 AM UTC-7 Ray Varella wrote:
>>
>>> Hey Bill,
>>> Out of curiosity, do you know if WI machines the cogs in their Petaluma 
>>> shop?
>>> If so, would it be possible to send it to them to machined into spec. 
>>>
>>> When I’ve been picking up freight Nextdoor to them, it looks like they 
>>> have a pretty well setup shop onsite. 
>>> It might be worth asking since that configuration is no longer 
>>> available. 
>>>
>>> Ray
>>>
>>> On Monday, September 30, 2024 at 10:19:14 AM UTC-7 Bill Lindsay wrote:
>>>
>>>> Front chain line on a double is the imaginary mid-point between the two 
>>>> rings.  You're using a 3/32" derailleur chain.  As long as you are 
>>>> splitting the difference you are already doing MUCH better than anybody's 
>>>> derailleur bike with respect to chain line.  
>>>>
>>>> To MEASURE chainlink, you use a caliper.  A very cheap one is fine. 
>>>>  Like this:  
>>>> https://www.acehardware.com/departments/tools/measure-and-marking-tools/measuring-devices/20970
>>>>
>>>> Measure from the inside edge of the drive side rear drop out to the 
>>>> center line of the cog.  That distance is X.  The chainline is (OLD/2) - 
>>>> X. 
>>>> So on my RoadUno, the OLD is 120mm, and X is 16mm, so the rear chain line 
>>>> is (120/2) - 16 = 44mm which is vanilla "road" chain line.  
>>>>
>>>> In front measure the distance from the seat tube to the mid line 
>>>> between the two rings.  That distance is Y.  The chainline is STdiam/2 + 
>>>> Y. 
>>>>  So on my RoadUno, that Y distance is 28mm and the seat tube diameter is 
>>>> 28.6mm, so the front chain line is (28.6/2) + 28 = 42.3mm
>>>>
>>>> Within 2mm front chainline to back chainline is super.  
>>>>
>>>> Bill Lindsay
>>>> El Cerrito, CA
>>>>
>>>> P.S. My "faffing" was just the bad luck of having two bad freewheels: 
>>>> one worn out and one an objective manufacturing defect.  
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> On Monday, September 30, 2024 at 9:01:50 AM UTC-7 isaako...@gmail.com 
>>>> wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> General question here for the assembled geniuses: how are folks 
>>>>> figuring their chainlines on 2 x 1 Melvin setups? Centering the rear cog 
>>>>> between the two chainrings? I need to measure mine; my immediate thought 
>>>>> is, how is one supposed to achieve a good chainline in this sort of setup 
>>>>> where you're inherently not getting a straight chainline?!  
>>>>>
>>>>> I have to say, for all of the apparent simplicity that a Melvin setup 
>>>>> has been beckoning to me with, I have been spending a lot of time faffing 
>>>>> around in the workshop! The OP has my sympathies and I wish them well in 
>>>>>

Re: [RBW] Re: Tics in the bars at the stem clamp - help

[Ray Varella]

I’m going to second what Chris said, that is excellent scientific 
protocol…change one thing at a time so once you solve your issue you will 
be reasonably certain what solved it. 

Think, plan, do, evaluate. 

Ray

On Monday, October 7, 2024 at 1:21:08 PM UTC-7 Chris Halasz wrote:

> Leah 
>
> I'm not saying you could have been, I'm wondering if you are aware that 
> you *are* a first class bonafide Systems Engineer, what with the focused 
> and detailed fault tree analysis 
> <https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fault_tree_analysis> and fish-bone diagram 
> <http://Ishikawa%20diagram> you're constructing. 
>
> (About the possibility of your being a card-carrying obsessive compulsive 
> cyclist, nothing unique about that here on this list). 
>
> Enjoying every tic of this discussion, 
>
> Chris 
>
> On Monday, October 7, 2024 at 12:19:41 PM UTC-7 Bicycle Belle Ding Ding! 
> wrote:
>
>> I don’t remember if I updated here…I had a Nitto Tallux 12 cm stem on my 
>> bike that I pulled this weekend. I had a tall Nitto 280 mm 10 cm stem that 
>> I wasn’t using, so in order to eliminate one thing at a time and 
>> reevaluate, that’s the plan. I rode 6 miles today and nothing. Everything 
>> feels solid, no noise. The bars are up too high, though. I want to lower 
>> them but that stem is slammed all the way in the head tube and can’t go 
>> lower. Because they are higher and closer than my normal setup, I can’t 
>> yank on them and put my weight on them like I normally do. So they might be 
>> behaving because they are not under duress. 
>>
>> Also of note. I would get a now-and-then vibration that sounded like 
>> maybe my metal front fender. It would happen at high speeds, which is 
>> usually hammering on a club ride. That was non-existent today. Wondering if 
>> it’s not the fender and instead something in that head tube/stem interface…
>>
>> I really hate this.
>> Leah 
>>
>> On Oct 7, 2024, at 2:55 PM, Brian Campbell  wrote:
>>
>> Given that the issue was solved by lubricating the bars previously (as 
>> mentioned above ) I would try a bar swap first. If you have bars that 
>> are 25.4 and have  no sleeve on hand that are not being used they would be 
>> my first choice.
>>
>>
>> If not these are an inexpensive way to diagnose the issue and it seems 
>> you are good with swapping bars on your own.
>>
>>
>> https://www.amazon.com/Handlebar-Handlebars-Replacement-Component-Aluminum/dp/B0CSMTRRGF/ref=sr_1_24?dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.Gw9_I8wrRr8dt9fq-LybtGUhzpjQ77_hjcQ87kbcXteYmQ0rXAWD5AHf8MLTZOdNNKbNJidDVMEgzd6f9pUhb1Lgu10Gwkdc6-oHIyuz9VIYGGggknQvBjBVt84Cmt3TtFfFVNW5viPWW3B07zPRqBwYAdLhEzpsN4MDY3qda-6Xf1CjPJebRrytcS0BMn54xuf8Ls7msIbzY6u7VjaVAAtrFnKz46KT_Wqsn8T4PcmTNoldGOa_wYanGPDNg9PGI4dTd82Tz9PvRtArKDHtTfEZ23NoLW_8wjWHGpIAwDs.TgSuzlhrtFRpmoiL2BVPW9j9kvJu7GTlSg_f7Hrlnmw&dib_tag=se&keywords=25.4%2Bsilver%2Bhandle%2Bbar&qid=1728321716&sr=8-24&th=1&psc=1
>>
>> Good luck!
>> On Monday, October 7, 2024 at 12:11:22 PM UTC-4 Mathias Steiner wrote:
>>
>>> On the facts & observations side, we now have one clicking handlebar 
>>> sleeve, and two (maybe three?) instances of clicking being resolved by 
>>> cleaning, greasing, and reinstalling the stem into the steerer tube.
>>>
>>> We've had zero reports of clicking resolved by headset work, though it's 
>>> a reasonable possibility. 
>>>
>>> I'd exhaust the first two possiblities before going to the trouble of 
>>> squaring and facing a head tube that may or may not need it. 
>>> I vote "not need" because it was fine for years. 
>>>
>>> On Monday, October 7, 2024 at 11:14:56 AM UTC-4 bmfo...@gmail.com wrote:
>>>
>>>> I recently had a tick develop out of the blue on my 1989 schwinn probe 
>>>> commuter. Nitto stem with the KT bars. I uninstalled and reinstalled the 
>>>> stem and it fixed it. I think the wedge may have been slightly loose and 
>>>> got bound up within the fork steerer.
>>>>
>>>> Little noises like that drive me nuts so i was happy to have it easily 
>>>> resolved. Good luck Leah! 
>>>>
>>>> Brian
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> On Monday, October 7, 2024 at 9:58:56 AM UTC-5 mwill...@gmail.com 
>>>> wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> Rivendell is very clear on their website as to why they don’t face and 
>>>>> chase frames. They state that they will do it if asked for $30. I’ve done 
>>>>> my own bottom bracket shells o

[RBW] Re: For sale Park truing stand + accessories

[Ray Varella]

SOLD
On Monday, October 7, 2024 at 7:49:57 AM UTC-7 Ray Varella wrote:

> Good eye on the linseed oil Mathias. 
> That’s actually a gallon size jug with raw linseed oil. I use it on spoons 
> I carve. 
> If you look to the right you will see some spoons. 
> Raw linseed oil takes longer to polymerize but if it’s pure, it is food 
> safe. 
>
> Boiled linseed oil polymerizes faster but depending on the source, it can 
> have some pretty nasty chemicals added to speed the drying process. 
> For spokes I would use boiled. 
> I keep some high quality boiled oil from Sweden. I use it for tool handles 
> and outdoor benches, workbenches etc…
>
> Ray
>
> On Monday, October 7, 2024 at 5:51:01 AM UTC-7 mathiass...@gmail.com 
> wrote:
>
>> Extra points for the jar with an inch of linseed oil for spoke thread 
>> preparation.
>> Does one properly use boiled or raw oil? 
>>
>> On Sunday, October 6, 2024 at 5:19:42 PM UTC-4 Ray Varella wrote:
>>
>>> [image: IMG_2309.jpeg][image: IMG_2307.jpeg]
>>>
>>>

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[RBW] Re: FS: NIB Sam Hillborne frameset 51cm

[Ray Varella]

Hi,
Where are you located?

Thank you 
Ray

On Monday, October 7, 2024 at 1:19:57 PM UTC-7 cramer@gmail.com wrote:

> Bronzy green. Never built up, still in box, sealed. I paid $1750 and am 
> selling it for $1600 + shipping(bike flights)
>
>
>
>
>

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[RBW] Re: For sale Park truing stand + accessories

[Ray Varella]

Good eye on the linseed oil Mathias. 
That’s actually a gallon size jug with raw linseed oil. I use it on spoons 
I carve. 
If you look to the right you will see some spoons. 
Raw linseed oil takes longer to polymerize but if it’s pure, it is food 
safe. 

Boiled linseed oil polymerizes faster but depending on the source, it can 
have some pretty nasty chemicals added to speed the drying process. 
For spokes I would use boiled. 
I keep some high quality boiled oil from Sweden. I use it for tool handles 
and outdoor benches, workbenches etc…

Ray

On Monday, October 7, 2024 at 5:51:01 AM UTC-7 mathiass...@gmail.com wrote:

> Extra points for the jar with an inch of linseed oil for spoke thread 
> preparation.
> Does one properly use boiled or raw oil? 
>
> On Sunday, October 6, 2024 at 5:19:42 PM UTC-4 Ray Varella wrote:
>
>> [image: IMG_2309.jpeg][image: IMG_2307.jpeg]
>>
>>

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[RBW] For sale Park truing stand + accessories

[Ray Varella]

I have a Park professional truing stand plus a couple dishing tools and a 
tensionometer. 

$225 for everything picked up in Vallejo CA
Possible shipping but it’s bulky. 
Please reply offlist rayvarella007 at gmail dot com 

Thank you 
Ray

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[RBW] Re: For sale Nitto Mark’s rack and Nitto stems

[Ray Varella]

Giving this a bump. Unused stem still available 

Thank you 
Ray

On Wednesday, July 31, 2024 at 7:19:53 PM UTC-7 Ray Varella wrote:

> Rack and used stem sold
> Unused stem still available 
>
> Thank you 
>
> On Wednesday, July 31, 2024 at 6:50:46 PM UTC-7 Ray Varella wrote:
>
>> I have a Mark’s rack and two Nitto stems I’m not likely to use anytime 
>> soon. 
>> The stems are both Technomic Deluxe 90mm extension 26.0 bar clamp
>> These are the 190mm quill length not the tallux version. 
>> One stem is unused, it has been dry fit but never used $65 includes 
>> priority shipping 
>> The other is used and shows some horizontal marks which should be visible 
>> in photos 
>> $40 includes priority shipping 
>> The rack has a set of 10” long struts and the diving board mount. It’s in 
>> nice shape $85 including priority shipping 
>> Email off list rayvarella007 ar gmail dot com
>> Let me know if you need more pictures 
>>
>> Thank you 
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: For sale 8 speed Shimano bar end shifters

[Ray Varella]

SOLD. 

On Thursday, October 3, 2024 at 9:49:19 AM UTC-7 Ray Varella wrote:

> [image: IMG_2296.jpeg][image: IMG_2295.jpeg]New in box Shimano 8 speed 
> shifters. 
> I’m pretty sure they are Ultegra level and not compatible with Dura Ace
> SL-BS64
> See photos for everything that is in the box
> Does $85 shipped seem fair?
>
> Reply offlist rayvarella007 at gmail dot com 
> Thank you 
> Ray
>

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Re: [RBW] An attempted RoadUno reconfiguration failure

[Ray Varella]

Hey Bill,
Out of curiosity, do you know if WI machines the cogs in their Petaluma 
shop?
If so, would it be possible to send it to them to machined into spec. 

When I’ve been picking up freight Nextdoor to them, it looks like they have 
a pretty well setup shop onsite. 
It might be worth asking since that configuration is no longer available. 

Ray

On Monday, September 30, 2024 at 10:19:14 AM UTC-7 Bill Lindsay wrote:

> Front chain line on a double is the imaginary mid-point between the two 
> rings.  You're using a 3/32" derailleur chain.  As long as you are 
> splitting the difference you are already doing MUCH better than anybody's 
> derailleur bike with respect to chain line.  
>
> To MEASURE chainlink, you use a caliper.  A very cheap one is fine.  Like 
> this:  
> https://www.acehardware.com/departments/tools/measure-and-marking-tools/measuring-devices/20970
>
> Measure from the inside edge of the drive side rear drop out to the center 
> line of the cog.  That distance is X.  The chainline is (OLD/2) - X. So on 
> my RoadUno, the OLD is 120mm, and X is 16mm, so the rear chain line is 
> (120/2) - 16 = 44mm which is vanilla "road" chain line.  
>
> In front measure the distance from the seat tube to the mid line between 
> the two rings.  That distance is Y.  The chainline is STdiam/2 + Y.  So on 
> my RoadUno, that Y distance is 28mm and the seat tube diameter is 28.6mm, 
> so the front chain line is (28.6/2) + 28 = 42.3mm
>
> Within 2mm front chainline to back chainline is super.  
>
> Bill Lindsay
> El Cerrito, CA
>
> P.S. My "faffing" was just the bad luck of having two bad freewheels: one 
> worn out and one an objective manufacturing defect.  
>
>
> On Monday, September 30, 2024 at 9:01:50 AM UTC-7 isaako...@gmail.com 
> wrote:
>
>> General question here for the assembled geniuses: how are folks figuring 
>> their chainlines on 2 x 1 Melvin setups? Centering the rear cog between the 
>> two chainrings? I need to measure mine; my immediate thought is, how is one 
>> supposed to achieve a good chainline in this sort of setup where you're 
>> inherently not getting a straight chainline?!  
>>
>> I have to say, for all of the apparent simplicity that a Melvin setup has 
>> been beckoning to me with, I have been spending a lot of time faffing 
>> around in the workshop! The OP has my sympathies and I wish them well in 
>> their faffing. 
>>
>> On Sunday, September 29, 2024 at 8:03:31 PM UTC-7 chefd...@gmail.com 
>> wrote:
>>
>>> My understanding is that the Roaduno, with its horizontal dropouts, does 
>>> not allow one to slide the wheel back and forth without also requiring an 
>>> adjustment to the rear brake pads. The QB, with slanted dropouts, did not 
>>> have that same problem. 
>>>
>>> I don't have either bike, I'm only repeating what I have read. 
>>>
>>> On Sunday, September 29, 2024 at 3:19:10 PM UTC-7 Corwin Zechar wrote:
>>>
>>>> An 8 tooth jump between chainrings does not necessarily require a 
>>>> tensioner.
>>>>
>>>> One example of such a build is my Quickbeam as originally delivered. 
>>>> The Quickbeam had 32 and 40 teeth chainrings with a 22 tooth freewheel. No 
>>>> need for a chain tensioner as the dropouts supplied enough travel for the 
>>>> rear wheel to take up all the slack in the chain with either the 32 tooth 
>>>> or 40 tooth chainring.
>>>>
>>>> Regards,
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Corwin
>>>> On Thursday, September 26, 2024 at 2:58:44 PM UTC-7 Ryan wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> Although I guess, with an 8-tooth jump on the front you do have to 
>>>>> have some kind of tensioner
>>>>>
>>>>> On Thursday, September 26, 2024 at 4:53:09 PM UTC-5 Ryan wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>> Philip after shortening chain and putting on a new 19t WI freewheel , 
>>>>>> did you use the Melvin, the Dura Ace or nothing as a tensioner?...since 
>>>>>> you're just shifting between the 2 front chainrings?
>>>>>>
>>>>>> On Thursday, September 26, 2024 at 4:24:35 PM UTC-5 Edwin W wrote:
>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Bill,
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> If god wanted you to use a tensioner with a single speed, she 
>>>>>>> wouldn't have created track ends. 
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Seriously, I will be interested to hear how this shakes out, and 
>>>>&

Re: [RBW] 2019 Clem Smith H

[Ray Varella]

I’ll take that bet Bill,
I’m reasonably confident the Clems came with a 118 bb

Ray
On Friday, September 27, 2024 at 3:36:42 PM UTC-7 Patrick Moore wrote:

> Motorized tools -- I understand now.
>
> On Thu, Sep 26, 2024 at 4:25 PM Bill Lindsay  wrote:
>
>> I documented (or think I documented) that my RoadUno complete had its 
>> crank bolts SUPER tight.  I extended my long handle 8mm allen with a ~2ft 
>> length of PVC pipe.  I toe strapped the crank arm to the chainstay and 
>> leaned on it.  It released with a loud "POP" sound.  After that initial 
>> "release" it unscrewed as effortlessly as one would expect.  The threads 
>> were kind of greased but there was no grease under the head of the bolt.  I 
>> envision they used some impact wrench object to get it tight, and the 
>> binding was just friction between the underside of the head of the bolt and 
>> the aluminum of the crank arm.  That interface should be lubed, and now it 
>> is.  :)
>>
>> I have no difficulty imagining that a Clem Complete was built in a 
>> similar process.  
>>
>> Bill Lindsay
>> El Cerrito, CA 
>>
>> On Thursday, September 26, 2024 at 1:47:13 PM UTC-7 Patrick Moore wrote:
>>
>>> To All: What might make the crank bolt seize in the spindle? This 
>>> situation is entirely outside of my experience, which goes back to the late 
>>> 1960s.
>>>
>>> I've used allen-head crank bolts myself, but only after tightening the 
>>> crank arms onto the spindle with hex-head bolts -- in other words, I 
>>> installed the allen-head bolts for looks. I can't imagine tightening allen 
>>> head crank bolts harder than hex head bolts, and I've never had hex bolts 
>>> seize. Even after I forgot to lube them.
>>>
>>> Patrick "beats me" Moore
>>>
>>>
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: FS: Quick release saddle bag holder

[Ray Varella]

If anyone else has one they want to sell, I could use one. 

Thank you 
Ray

On Thursday, September 26, 2024 at 6:35:19 PM UTC-7 ericf3 wrote:

>
>> I have one and just love it. Not for sale, sorry
>
>

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[RBW] Re: (perhaps) dumb question time (bottle bosses)

[Ray Varella]

I just checked the bikes in my stable and none of them have the water 
bottle bosses low enough to interfere with a seat tube mounted bottle. 
53 cm frames built over a decade ago. 
Is it possible that the frames in question have been built more recently 
and coincide with the advent of 1x drivetrains and the location hasn’t been 
an issue or is this more pervasive and I’ve just been lucky?
Ray

On Saturday, September 21, 2024 at 10:11:38 AM UTC-7 Michael Baquerizo 
wrote:

> Hey Bill -
>
> If you read my original post I make it clear that despite my understanding 
> of the situation i concede that am most likely wrong, but my question had 
> nothing to do with the bottle being more 'easily accessible', just about 
> its positioning aesthetically and perhaps even functionally, as if it 
> straddles the FD clamp it requires one more thing to mount (washers to 
> raise ) So it's kind of an inaccurate recounting to say that 'The OP 
> believes there is an obvious design flaw'
>
> Perhaps you're conflating lower on the frame with 'more easily accessible' 
> and i'm not CERTAIN that's the case. surely too close to the top tube and 
> the bottle would be impossible to get, but there's a middle ground between 
> as low as possible and the aforementioned 'too close to the seat tube'. To 
> ME, that middle ground seems like it'd be easier to access, as it's closer 
> to ones reach than lower would be.
>
>  A lot of the accounts from bike owners and bike viewers seem to suggest 
> similar confusion about why sometimes it's above the clamp area, sometimes 
> it's below. your own account suggests that it might as well be ABOVE the 
> derailleur clamp area, as it isn't a drinking water position, it's a stored 
> water position. Therefore, more easily accessible (which i conflate with 
> being closer to ones reach) 
>
> i prefer the suggestions that weight lower on the frame is ideal (not 
> actually sure if its true but it seems to make physical sense) and also the 
> allowance for frame bags (in this day and age especially, less so when the 
> hillborne that i'm referencing was originally created) AND the idea that 
> your legs thin out the closer they get to the ankle.
>
> I hope that helps with some of your confusion. 
>
>
> On Saturday, September 21, 2024 at 12:00:38 PM UTC-4 Bill Lindsay wrote:
>
>> The OP believes there is an obvious design flaw that the seat tube water 
>> bottle isn't more easily accessible on lots of bikes.  
>>
>> This confuses me. To those who need/want a higher mounted seat tube water 
>> bottle on their bikes: what exactly is the use case?  
>>
>> a. I run ONLY a seat tube water bottle for some really good reason, and I 
>> therefor it should be super accessible, because it's my only source of 
>> ride-hydration
>> b. I run two different drinks and have to have easy access at BOTH to 
>> manage my hydration strategy
>> c. I always drink from the seat tube bottle FIRST for some really good 
>> reason, and use the down tube bottle as the back up, so the seat tube 
>> bottle needs to be super accessible 
>> d. some other use case
>>
>> For me, and I assumed for most other cyclists, the seat tube bottle is 
>> not for drinking.  The down tube bottle is for drinking.  When the down 
>> tube bottle is empty, then I move the seat tube bottle to the down tube, 
>> and THEN that bottle is for drinking.  In other words, it's a STORAGE 
>> location, not an ACCESSIBILITY location, for my use-case.  When I grab for 
>> a bottle, 19 out of 20 times it's the down tube bottle.  I only grab the 
>> seat tube bottle when it's time to swap.  For storage, I prefer efficiency, 
>> and down the seat tube gets it out of the way and that makes sense to me.  
>>
>> Bill Lindsay
>> El Cerrito, CA
>>
>>
>>
>> On Friday, September 20, 2024 at 7:00:58 AM UTC-7 Michael Baquerizo wrote:
>>
>>> i'm ready for the answer to be so obvious that I assume this is a dumb 
>>> question. 
>>>
>>> So often, on many bike frame, but also on Riv's - the bottle bosses on 
>>> the seat tube straddle where the derailleur clamp would go. 
>>>
>>> however, almost AS often as I see this, I also see plenty of real estate 
>>> for them to exist ABOVE said clamp area, where they'd no doubt be more 
>>> easily accessed by a rider.
>>>
>>> why? it seems so obviously a design flaw, but surely I'M the one in the 
>>> wrong.
>>>
>>

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Re: WRe: [RBW] Re: “The Art of Taking it Slow” in The New Yorker

[Ray Varella]

Let’s not overlook the flattering description of the Roaduno painted 
“banana-slug yellow”

I’ll be curious to see if that makes into their paint color description in 
place of what I’m guessing was lime olive. 
It would be inside info known by those who actually read the article. 

Insert secret banana-slug handshake 

Ray

On Wednesday, September 18, 2024 at 3:21:38 PM UTC-7 RichS wrote:

> Yes, it’s in the latest issue. 
>
> Best,
> Rich in ATL
>
> On Wed, 18 Sep 2024 at 6:17 PM, DTL  wrote:
>
>> Will this appear in a print issue of The New Yorker?
>>
>> On Wednesday, September 18, 2024 at 11:55:42 PM UTC+10 wn6...@aol.com 
>> wrote:
>>
>>> Great article. My brother in Monte Rio, CA forwarded it to me, I 
>>> forwarded it to a small group of cyclists I ride with here in the 
>>> Sacramento area. My first bike was a jet black three speed J. C. Higgins 
>>> purchased from Sears by my parents in 1961. Expressly for my first 
>>> job-paper route delivering the San Bernardino Sun Telegram. Strangely 
>>> enough, my Rivendell Appaloosa in some ways takes me back to those days on 
>>> that beloved steel steed.
>>> Mike in Fair Oaks, CA
>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>>
>>> On Sep 17, 2024, at 8:48 PM, Greg J  wrote:
>>>
>>> I wish she had interviewed Hiroshi.  My first new bike that I bought 
>>> with my own money was a Road Standard from Jitensha --- I think Hiroshi had 
>>> bought a couple of frames when Grant was starting Riv.  I also saw my first 
>>> Rivendell catalogs and Riv Readers at Jitensha in the late 90s.
>>>
>>>
>>> I'm sure this article will sell a few more frames for Riv, which is 
>>> great!
>>>
>>> Greg/Oakland
>>>
>>> On Tuesday, September 17, 2024 at 8:24:34 PM UTC-7 Philip Williamson 
>>> wrote:
>>>
>>>> I thought it was super well written, and the range of people 
>>>> interviewed was stunning. Leah, a random friend, Will, Calling in Sick 
>>>> guy, 
>>>> Yvon Chouinard (no big deal), Grant... But did she interview Hiroshi? :)  
>>>>
>>>> I read this basically in realtime in a group chat, which made it even 
>>>> better, and then I passed it on to a friend who loved it and passed it to 
>>>> his wife who loved it... I hope it goes viral beyond our small (but 
>>>> mighty) 
>>>> world. 
>>>>
>>>> Philiip
>>>> Sonoma County
>>>>
>>>> On Monday, September 16, 2024 at 7:29:21 AM UTC-7 Roberta wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> It’s about Grant, Rivendell, philosophies, …. 
>>>>>
>>>>> You can read one New Yorker article for free. 
>>>>>
>>>>> https://www.newyorker.com/magazine/2024/09/23/the-art-of-taking-it-slow
>>>>>
>>>>
>>>>> -- 
>>>
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>>>
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[RBW] Re: Brake levers that clear Silver 2 thumbies

[Ray Varella]

The Dia-Compe SS-7 is the long pull version and they clear as do the 
Sunrace long pull. 

Ray
On Sunday, September 15, 2024 at 7:26:07 AM UTC-7 triste...@gmail.com wrote:

> I apologize, the SS-6 levers are short pull only. The mx-2 can be used 
> with short and long pull brakes. 
>
> On Sunday, September 15, 2024 at 7:05:26 AM UTC-7 Tristen Moss wrote:
>
>> Hey Kevin! 
>>
>> I know the Dia Compe SS-6 and MX-2 levers will clear based on personal 
>> experience. Here’s a couple links if you want to check them out! 
>>
>>
>> https://global.bluelug.com/dia-compe-mx-2-bl-limited-brake-lever-polish.html
>>
>> https://global.bluelug.com/dia-compe-ss-6-brake-lever-all-polish.html
>>
>>
>> On Saturday, September 14, 2024 at 10:10:12 AM UTC-7 Kevin wrote:
>>
>>> Hi all,
>>>
>>> I'm currently using the upside down Shimano method but I'm about to move 
>>> those levers to another bike. Who can help me find some silvery long pull 
>>> levers with a clamp that doesn't interfere with the shifters? 
>>>
>>> I know the Pauls do but I'd love a cheaper option if it's out there.
>>>
>>> Thanks!
>>>
>>

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Re: [RBW] Puzzled by 2 Rivendell recommendations

[Ray Varella]

Belts would likely be well received if more bikes were built to accommodate 
them. 
A belt with an IGH be extremely practical for people who don’t maintain 
their bikes. 
Children’s bikes, commuter bikes and occasional use bikes that get stored 
outside would benefit. 

MHO
Ray

On Friday, September 13, 2024 at 11:19:47 AM UTC-7 Bill Lindsay wrote:

> "elegant IMO"
>
> Elegance certainly is in the eye of the beholder.  Even if you think your 
> derailleur-equipped bike(s) are inelegant, I think they are equivalently 
> elegant to your IGH bike(s).  I think they are all valid and equivalently 
> elegant ways to realize a build.  
>
> Pushing it to the limit of *Opinion*, in the IMO department, I'm becoming 
> convinced that chains are primarily good for being derailed.  Shiftability 
> is the core attribute of contemporary chains.  For me, if you've got a 
> drive train with no derailleurs, the preferable setup, in the IMO elegance 
> department is a BELT.  A belt is a purpose built optimized object for a 
> no-derailleur setup.  So, for optimal elegance (IMO), an IGH build should 
> be a belt build.  IMO.  
>
> Bill Lindsay
> El Cerrito, CA
>
>
>
> On Thursday, September 12, 2024 at 4:52:56 PM UTC-7 Patrick Moore wrote:
>
>> Yes to the IGH; far more elegant IMO than a FD and a chain tensioner not 
>> to mention the multiple chainrings. But the defect of IGHs is the choice of 
>> ratios, drag -- if you choose a wider-range, more-ratios hub the internal 
>> friction increases, and if you choose the lowest drag options (several 
>> tests have shown that the basic SA 3 speed hubs have no more drag, or even 
>> a wee bit less drag, overall, than derailleur systems), you are limited to 
>> the more basic 2 and 3 speed hubs which have very limited range.
>>
>> But if you can get by with limited ratios, they're worth considering. 
>> I've built very usable all-rounder beaters with the venerable, durable, and 
>> in fact ineradicable AW, and the nice thing is that the these are very 
>> available, very cheap -- old units are about $50 on eBay and older ones, 
>> even the 114 mm OL ones, will work fine with 120 mm frames. I've set mine 
>> up with 3d/high/overdrive for pavement cruising with about a 72" gear, 
>> 2nd/direct at about 54", and 1st/low/underdrive at about 41".
>>
>> Couple the AW with a double ring and you can split the gaps in the AW for 
>> a very usable 6-speed -- my second complete bike build circa 1971 had a 
>> "half stepped" AW, tho' I used 2 cogs instead of 2 rings.
>>
>> But even more exotic SA IGH are available on eBay; the wonderful AM 
>> medium ratio hub comes up from time to time at reasonable prices (I got 
>> mine for well under $200 each -- $150? -- IIRC in runnable condition) and 
>> again the 114 mm OL will fit 120 mm frames with only strategic 
>> anti-rotation washer selection and placement. And, it uses the ubiquitous 
>> AW trigger shifter. Direct, 15.5% overdrive, 0.8654% underdrive; mine are 
>> geared75/65/56". And the AM is reputed to be, like the AW, one of SA's most 
>> durable hubs.
>>
>> And even the pure gold ASC close ratio fixed 3 speed. I got my 2 very 
>> cheaply, $200 NOS and $150 used but VG. But these are much rarer; I was 
>> lucky.
>>
>>
>>
>> On Thu, Sep 12, 2024 at 1:19 PM Mackenzy Albright  
>> wrote:
>>
>>> ... I think an internal real hub like a sturmey-archer 3 speed with a 
>>> compact double crank and paul tensioner would be an incredible build 
>>> Price aside the roaduno is the perfect candidate for some fun builds.  
>>>
>>

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Re: [RBW] Puzzled by 2 Rivendell recommendations

[Ray Varella]

Eric,
I can only guess why the horizontal ends weren’t angled but my guess is the 
gear changes are intended to be at the crank, hence the shifter boss and 
derailer hanger. 
I don’t know if brake position allows for the difference a 2 speed 
freewheel offers or not. 

Ray

On Thursday, September 12, 2024 at 12:10:07 PM UTC-7 Eric Daume wrote:

> I don’t disapprove of the Roaduno, just its brakes. 
>
> I had a later 2009 KM, and ran it both geared and single speed. And from 
> what I’ve seen on Surly forums, that was very typical. It was a bike made 
> to be tinkered with, like most Surlys of that era. 
>
> What really confounds me about the Roaduno’s dropout is why Riv didn’t 
> angle it, like on the QB. That was a smart design that allows for easier 
> manual gear changes on a single speed.  I think people who do this are ever 
> more rare than people who ran their KMs both geared and single speed, but 
> it’s an appealing idea for me. 
>
>
> On Thursday, September 12, 2024, Bill Lindsay  wrote:
>
>> Eric
>>
>> That's interesting.  I think you mean that as kind of a burn, because I'm 
>> pretty sure you disapprove of the RoadUno, which you are allowed to do. A 
>> few questions though:  Do you have any guess about what fraction of people 
>> set up their 2003 Surly Karate Monkeys as single speeds?  Do you think the 
>> 2003 Surly Karate Monkey was regarded as a single speed that incidentally 
>> had a hanger?  Or do you think it was regarded as a mountain bike, with a 
>> single speed option?
>>
>> Bill Lindsay
>> El Cerrito, CA
>>
>> On Wednesday, September 11, 2024 at 2:56:06 PM UTC-7 Eric Daume wrote:
>>
>>> The dropouts might be proprietary, but they're functionally identical to 
>>> those on a 2003 Surly Karate Monkey... though I doubt Riv's have the Surly 
>>> name cast in.
>>>
>>> Eric
>>>
>>> On Wed, Sep 11, 2024 at 2:09 PM Bill Lindsay  wrote:
>>>
>>>> "Wouldn't verticals make the frame less apt for its apparent intended 
>>>> use as the single speed signified by the name?"
>>>>
>>>> This is fascinating.  An individual implicitly shows an utter disregard 
>>>> for bicycles' apparent intended use by serially converting all possible 
>>>> platforms to fixies.  That individual doubles-down on that disregard by 
>>>> brainstorming a way to build a Clem as a fixie.  That same individual then 
>>>> makes a post explicitly stating that the only opinion about anything that 
>>>> matters is their own opinion.  And then, with extreme earnestness, argues 
>>>> that the NAME of a bicycle model pigeonholes the intended use for that 
>>>> bicycle.  
>>>>
>>>> Can you please list the other bicycle models in the history of Earth 
>>>> that encode their specific intent in their name?  If that list is empty, 
>>>> then why is this the one bike in the history of Earth that is defined by 
>>>> your interpretation of its name?
>>>>
>>>> It has custom proprietary track ends that have a dedicated hanger for a 
>>>> tensioner.  I call that the intent that the build include a tensioner.  I 
>>>> am pretty sure it is the only production bike on earth with a dedicated 
>>>> single-purpose tensioner hanger.  
>>>> It is the only current production bike on earth (I'm pretty sure) with 
>>>> a solo left-side down tube shifter boss.  I call that the intent that the 
>>>> build include a left side shifter.
>>>> The complete comes with a triple crank set with two chain rings.  I 
>>>> call that the intent that the build include two or three chain rings.  
>>>> The complete comes with a single freewheel (1, one, Uno). 
>>>> Grant's build is not a single speed.  Grant celebrates and encourages 
>>>> using a cool old freebie derailleur as your tensioner.  I call that the 
>>>> intent to run it as an Nx1, NxOne, NxUno.  
>>>>
>>>> I think the primary intent of the RoadUno is a 2x1, and I think that is 
>>>> a genius format.  If I had to impart meaning on the name RoadUno, I guess 
>>>> I 
>>>> would say it's in reference to the single freewheel in back and the 120mm 
>>>> O.L.D.  I also think they had the name and the artwork and the headbadge 
>>>> before the bike design was finished in its evolution.  That's why I call 
>>>> my 
>>>> RoadUno a RoDeuxNo.  Maybe I'll make decal mods on mine.  
>>

Re: [RBW] Puzzled by 2 Rivendell recommendations

[Ray Varella]

Bill,
If the Roaduno had been made with vertical dropouts then anyone wanting to 
run it as a single speed would need to run a chain tensioner or use an 
eccentric hub. 
At that point I think a lot of people would just try running a single gear 
on an existing bike. 
The simplicity of not needing a dummy derailer or chain tensioner is a plus 
in my humble opinion 

Ray

On Tuesday, September 10, 2024 at 11:41:36 PM UTC-7 Joe Bernard wrote:

> I think the tether is a good idea. Sure, if you're super careful and never 
> overload the rack and always tighten the bolts you should be fine. But it's 
> still a rack falling on a front wheel and over you go. I'll take the extra 
> safety precaution. 
>
> Joe Bernard 
> Clearlake CA 
>
> On Tuesday, September 10, 2024 at 3:21:29 PM UTC-7 Brian Turner wrote:
>
>> I have never, and will never tether my racks with a “safety strap”. 
>>
>> Maybe I like to live dangerously, but also maybe I understand that 
>> tightening bolts and not overloading racks is important too.
>
>

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Re: [RBW] Tech question: Rene Herse pulley-style brake yoke -- what am I doing wrong?

[Ray Varella]

Michael,
You mentioned having several sets of RH brakes. 
Are you experiencing the same issue with all the yokes?

Is it possible that the hole in the bolt in question is off by a tiny bit 
and isn’t allowing the assembly to draw up as far as it needs. 

Ray
On Wednesday, September 4, 2024 at 10:31:17 AM UTC-7 eric...@gmail.com 
wrote:

> Hi Michael — I haven't used these yokes before but given your experience 
> setting up bikes and your careful descriptions here I'm guessing you're 
> just overlooking something. Are the bolts stacked properly inside the yoke? 
> Could be a faulty bit of manufacturing? Is there a piece of trash lodged in 
> there you haven't seen? Are you threading the cable through the small hole 
> in the bolt itself? I'd assume you are and see you address "the hole" 
> above. But is that the hole in the yoke *and *the bolt? Or just the yoke? 
> Just had to ask as we're troubleshooting. Image below for reference 
>
> [image: Screenshot 2024-09-04 at 1.27.01 PM.png]
>
> On Wednesday, September 4, 2024 at 1:12:31 PM UTC-4 Michael Doleman wrote:
>
>> To confirm: yes, absolutely positively passing the cable all the way 
>> through so that it protrudes out the other side by the correct amount. I 
>> start with the cable all the way through the hole and much longer than 
>> needed. I then move the yoke as described in the instructions, cut the 
>> cable, and re-attach in the correct position.
>>
>> On Wednesday, September 4, 2024 at 10:01:06 AM UTC-7 lconley wrote:
>>
>>> Are you passing the cable all of the way through the tightening bolt and 
>>> fitting so that it grips at both ends of the hole in the tightening bolt? I 
>>> also silver solder the ends of my cables. Lots of  cut fit repeat to get 
>>> the cable length correct. 
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Laing Conley
>>> Delray Beach FL
>>>
>>> On Wed, Sep 4, 2024 at 11:37 AM Michael Doleman  
>>> wrote:
>>>
>>>> I'm posting this here because I am indeed a Rivendell owner, albeit 
>>>> this topic in particular isn't specific to Rivendell, and only "of 
>>>> interest" to this particular crowd :-)
>>>>
>>>> I have Rene Herse brakes -- a couple sets of the cantilever style, and 
>>>> a set of the center-pulls that I'm about to set-up on a frame I've had 
>>>> custom built with direct-mount studs. One set of the cantilevers I'll 
>>>> set-up on a Sam Hillborne.
>>>>
>>>> For the life of me I cannot seem to get the little pulley-style 
>>>> straddles to properly anchor the cable. I'm hoping someone else has had 
>>>> experience with these and can provide some insight into what I might be 
>>>> doing wrong.
>>>>
>>>> I first tried the brakes a while back on a test set-up, and here's what 
>>>> I experienced:
>>>>
>>>> I tightened the nut which is supposed to anchor the cable to the yoke, 
>>>> and gave the brake lever a solid tug -- all seemed to be fine. But after a 
>>>> few pulls it felt like it was starting to give a bit. And, indeed, with 
>>>> one 
>>>> more good, hard pull, I was able to completely yank the cable right out of 
>>>> the yoke -- with surprising ease, actually. I repeated the same process 
>>>> with a different cable, with the other brake on the same bike, and got 
>>>> pretty-much the same result.
>>>>
>>>> Having had my interest engaged, I decided to do a little "test bed" 
>>>> experiment, by making a little wooden jig (of sorts) to lightly hold the 
>>>> yoke in a small vice. I did that, with the cable secured very lightly. I 
>>>> wanted to see what level of bolt torque was required to hold the cable. At 
>>>> very light tension (talking maybe 3 Nm), I could not for the life of me 
>>>> pull that cable out. It was absolutely rock solid.
>>>>
>>>> So, I'm wondering, now: does the failure occur because I've actually 
>>>> OVER tightened the anchor bolt on the yoke? Is over-tightening it somehow 
>>>> misshaping the hole through which the cable passes, and therefore it's 
>>>> losing its ability to hold? Is there that much more mechanical advantage 
>>>> over the cable, with the lever? And, if so, are the brakes even safe to 
>>>> use? Am I supposed to set them up such that the lever bottoms-out prior to 
>>>> the point at which it's possible to 

[RBW] Roadunos on web specials page

[Ray Varella]

If anyone is looking for a complete Roaduno, they have them listed on the 
web specials page. 
They are the ones that have minor blemishes. 
They are very nicely appointed especially for the price. 

Ray

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[RBW] Re: Clem musings

[Ray Varella]

https://www.rivbike.com/blogs/staff-bikes/grants-59cm-clem-l-maxed-out?srsltid=AfmBOorTXJLxe9HhRnVAwh1pKIUeAVHG9pgOXiCFKEyL7JBfZxzTIDMY

See if this link works 
On Thursday, August 29, 2024 at 6:19:07 PM UTC-7 Ray Varella wrote:

> Patrick,
> Somewhere I recall seeing Grant had put 2.6” knobbies on one of his Clems. 
> I have 60mm G-ones on mine and they have plenty of clearance. 
> I would encourage you to visit Riv in person, flights are cheap if you’re 
> willing to hunt for deals and both San Francisco and Oakland airports have 
> BART (Bay Area Rapid Transit) stations and Riv is just a block or two from 
> the Walnut Creek station. 
> Imagine being able to do all your fretting in person and take some test 
> rides. 
>
> Ray
> On Thursday, August 29, 2024 at 3:46:48 PM UTC-7 Patrick Moore wrote:
>
>> Breaking off from the Gus thread to think out loud about a Clem addition 
>> to my stable.
>>
>> Tire width: thanks, Nick; that's really good to know. 
>>
>> Has the Clem design been altered recently to allow fatter tires? I have 
>> vague memories of asking about max tire width several times before and 
>> hearing that ~50 mm was max ...?
>>
>> Just looked at the frame specs: max width for all sizes is given as 55 
>> mm? Is this just proactive conservatism?
>>
>> Bar: Alexis: I'd really like to try something like the Billie or Choco or 
>> Albatross flipped upside down; or perhaps a much narrower North Road ditto, 
>> since I dislike really wide bars; but I've at least a score of non-drops 
>> and have never, ever found one that doesn't hurt my left palm -- very 
>> sensitive -- after a couple of miles. The closest was a Map Ahearne bar 
>> severely trimmed with Ergon grips, but even with that, going back to a 
>> (basically no-reach) Hover drop, this on the long-tt Monocog, was like 
>> coming home again.
>>
>> I see that the effective tt for the 59 is 68.5 mm. I'll have to figure 
>> out how much of that you get back from the 71.5* sta and the 69.5 hta 
>> compared to my usual ~56.5 cm with 73 sta. But I suppose I could get back 
>> 60 or 70 mm with a no-reach stem compare to my usual 80 and use a very 
>> short reach bar like the 70 mm Hover instead of the 115 mm-reach RH Maes 
>> Parallel and make up any leftovers with the higher bar placement I'd expect 
>> for such a bike.
>>
>> In fact, with the max tire width no longer a question, the 2 remaining 
>> hesitations are vertical dropouts and the bar question. Oh, and a third: 
>> the temptation to keep upgrading a nice beater until I am no longer 
>> comfortable leaving it locked outside.
>>
>> I want to use an IGH or single speed hub. I could use hubs with a 
>> freewheel and use a tensioner but I'd really  like a fixed drivetrain. I'm 
>> tempted to try the floating chainring chain tensioning solution which 
>> should be relatively easy with the very long stays.
>>
>> So the upshot is I want to take a nice frame and use it for something 
>> contrary to what it was designed for. I suppose that's typical.
>>
>> Meanwhile I'll fret about it until, maybe, I do something about it. But a 
>> Clem is on a provisional short list.
>>
>>
>> On Wed, Aug 28, 2024 at 12:35 PM Nick Shoemaker  
>> wrote:
>>
>>> ... @Patrick: My Clem is a size 64 on 700c Cliffhangers ( 25mm internal 
>>> width) running tubes - I didn't have calipers on hand, but my measuring 
>>> tape estimate came to ~65-66mm for the 29x2.6" Mezcal. It certainly runs 
>>> bigger than the 29x2.6" Nobby Nic that I used for a short time, which is my 
>>> only other point of reference. I also totally agree with you on unpaved 
>>> tire pressures - back in my 'racy' days I would run ~16psi on my tubeless 
>>> 26x2.4" - even 20psi resulted in a noticeable hit to traction. I'm about 
>>> 20lbs heaver now (140>160), but I'm guessing I had the big Mezcals down to 
>>> ~20psi with tubes on my last ride and they felt great.
>>>
>>
>> On Wed, Aug 28, 2024 at 3:04 PM R. Alexis  wrote:
>>
>>> Patrick,
>>>
>>> What non drop bars are you considering? The Alt-Bars that are out there 
>> seem to work well. At least for me. I have a set of early Jones titanium 
>> H-Bars with the J bend on my Waterford 1400 mountain bike and a set of 
>> Surly Open Bars on the Gary Fisher Gemini tandem mounted on the front. Both 
>> bars are comfortable. I have several bikes sporting Wilderness Trail Bikes 
>> Dirt Drops that I really like and my Schwinn Voyageur has a Nitto flared 
>> drop bar (014) on it.  
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: Clem musings

[Ray Varella]

Patrick,
Somewhere I recall seeing Grant had put 2.6” knobbies on one of his Clems. 
I have 60mm G-ones on mine and they have plenty of clearance. 
I would encourage you to visit Riv in person, flights are cheap if you’re 
willing to hunt for deals and both San Francisco and Oakland airports have 
BART (Bay Area Rapid Transit) stations and Riv is just a block or two from 
the Walnut Creek station. 
Imagine being able to do all your fretting in person and take some test 
rides. 

Ray
On Thursday, August 29, 2024 at 3:46:48 PM UTC-7 Patrick Moore wrote:

> Breaking off from the Gus thread to think out loud about a Clem addition 
> to my stable.
>
> Tire width: thanks, Nick; that's really good to know. 
>
> Has the Clem design been altered recently to allow fatter tires? I have 
> vague memories of asking about max tire width several times before and 
> hearing that ~50 mm was max ...?
>
> Just looked at the frame specs: max width for all sizes is given as 55 mm? 
> Is this just proactive conservatism?
>
> Bar: Alexis: I'd really like to try something like the Billie or Choco or 
> Albatross flipped upside down; or perhaps a much narrower North Road ditto, 
> since I dislike really wide bars; but I've at least a score of non-drops 
> and have never, ever found one that doesn't hurt my left palm -- very 
> sensitive -- after a couple of miles. The closest was a Map Ahearne bar 
> severely trimmed with Ergon grips, but even with that, going back to a 
> (basically no-reach) Hover drop, this on the long-tt Monocog, was like 
> coming home again.
>
> I see that the effective tt for the 59 is 68.5 mm. I'll have to figure out 
> how much of that you get back from the 71.5* sta and the 69.5 hta compared 
> to my usual ~56.5 cm with 73 sta. But I suppose I could get back 60 or 70 
> mm with a no-reach stem compare to my usual 80 and use a very short reach 
> bar like the 70 mm Hover instead of the 115 mm-reach RH Maes Parallel and 
> make up any leftovers with the higher bar placement I'd expect for such a 
> bike.
>
> In fact, with the max tire width no longer a question, the 2 remaining 
> hesitations are vertical dropouts and the bar question. Oh, and a third: 
> the temptation to keep upgrading a nice beater until I am no longer 
> comfortable leaving it locked outside.
>
> I want to use an IGH or single speed hub. I could use hubs with a 
> freewheel and use a tensioner but I'd really  like a fixed drivetrain. I'm 
> tempted to try the floating chainring chain tensioning solution which 
> should be relatively easy with the very long stays.
>
> So the upshot is I want to take a nice frame and use it for something 
> contrary to what it was designed for. I suppose that's typical.
>
> Meanwhile I'll fret about it until, maybe, I do something about it. But a 
> Clem is on a provisional short list.
>
>
> On Wed, Aug 28, 2024 at 12:35 PM Nick Shoemaker  
> wrote:
>
>> ... @Patrick: My Clem is a size 64 on 700c Cliffhangers ( 25mm internal 
>> width) running tubes - I didn't have calipers on hand, but my measuring 
>> tape estimate came to ~65-66mm for the 29x2.6" Mezcal. It certainly runs 
>> bigger than the 29x2.6" Nobby Nic that I used for a short time, which is my 
>> only other point of reference. I also totally agree with you on unpaved 
>> tire pressures - back in my 'racy' days I would run ~16psi on my tubeless 
>> 26x2.4" - even 20psi resulted in a noticeable hit to traction. I'm about 
>> 20lbs heaver now (140>160), but I'm guessing I had the big Mezcals down to 
>> ~20psi with tubes on my last ride and they felt great.
>>
>
> On Wed, Aug 28, 2024 at 3:04 PM R. Alexis  wrote:
>
>> Patrick,
>>
>> What non drop bars are you considering? The Alt-Bars that are out there 
> seem to work well. At least for me. I have a set of early Jones titanium 
> H-Bars with the J bend on my Waterford 1400 mountain bike and a set of 
> Surly Open Bars on the Gary Fisher Gemini tandem mounted on the front. Both 
> bars are comfortable. I have several bikes sporting Wilderness Trail Bikes 
> Dirt Drops that I really like and my Schwinn Voyageur has a Nitto flared 
> drop bar (014) on it.  
>

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[RBW] Re: Ro-Deux-No build notes New Bike Day

[Ray Varella]

Grant just shakes his head at my Frankenstein lab experiments.  When I 
tried to describe this build concept to him last month he told me "Gosh, 
Bill, it must be HARD to be you!"

😆 🤣 we all have our coping mechanisms to quiet the mind. 

Ray

On Sunday, August 25, 2024 at 8:04:25 AM UTC-7 Bill Lindsay wrote:

> Grant just shakes his head at my Frankenstein lab experiments.  When I 
> tried to describe this build concept to him last month he told me "Gosh, 
> Bill, it must be HARD to be you!"  
>
> BL in EC
>
> On Sunday, August 25, 2024 at 5:57:09 AM UTC-7 sarahlik...@gmail.com 
> wrote:
>
>> Their gentle suggestion... "Do not EVEN try to get Grant to do this." 
>>
>> On Friday, August 23, 2024 at 8:02:12 PM UTC-7 Bill Lindsay wrote:
>>
>>> Will asked for a curated photo-shoot this morning.  Of course I was 
>>> happy to oblige.  Will indicated it was Grant who was concerned that others 
>>> would demand that Riv replicate the Lindsay treatment, which is why Will 
>>> put in the language that Riv can't replicate my build.  
>>>
>>> BL in EC
>>>
>>> On Friday, August 23, 2024 at 5:40:25 PM UTC-7 sarahlik...@gmail.com 
>>> wrote:
>>>
>>>> And note the shout out about Bill L and his build in the Riv 
>>>> newsletter they noticed too!
>>>>
>>>> On Friday, August 23, 2024 at 9:41:19 AM UTC-7 Bill Lindsay wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> I like the experiment a LOT, for three big reasons:  
>>>>>
>>>>> 1. "nobody" has done it before.
>>>>> 2. virtually everybody has never tried it.  
>>>>> 3. A good number of know it alls will tell you it's not possible, and 
>>>>> they don't know from experience (see #2)
>>>>>
>>>>> Have fun with it.  All "findings" are valuable.
>>>>>
>>>>> BL in EC
>>>>> On Friday, August 23, 2024 at 8:18:52 AM UTC-7 mvie...@gmail.com 
>>>>> wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>> Hi Bill - 
>>>>>> My S-A 2sp does not have a coaster bake. So:  Rim Brakes 4ever!  
>>>>>> (both front and rear) 
>>>>>> I'm using a Paul Melvinator (high zoot!). I read - either at the Paul 
>>>>>> Comp website or Rivendell - it can accommodate 20t difference for the 
>>>>>> chainrings. 
>>>>>>
>>>>>> How the tensioner interacts with the kick back mechanism will be a 
>>>>>> bit of a SheldonBrown style experiment. I get your point - there's going 
>>>>>> to 
>>>>>> be some kind of finickiness between the chain tensioner and the force to 
>>>>>> shift when back pedaling. 
>>>>>> I'll have to start a thread on if it works or not. Maybe grab 
>>>>>> different deraiilleurs and set up a Design of Experiments!
>>>>>>
>>>>>> I'm expecting fun - as soon as UPS gets it to me I missed the 
>>>>>> delivery this AM, as they moved the time up by more than 2 hours. :| 
>>>>>> Mark V. 
>>>>>>
>>>>>>  
>>>>>>
>>>>>> On Thursday, August 22, 2024 at 7:29:01 PM UTC-4 Bill Lindsay wrote:
>>>>>>
>>>>>>> "and (just noticed)  3 x 6  in the Flickr pages?"
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> My RoadUno is 2x7.  It's the stock 38/26 in front, and 12-28 in 
>>>>>>> back  
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> "I'm probably going to use a 2spd kick back hub (yes, they are 
>>>>>>> heavy) with a 3 ring set up."
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> How will that work?  If you run a 3-ring setup with a front 
>>>>>>> derailleur you'll need a tensioner of some kind.  If you run a 2 speed 
>>>>>>> kickback hub you'll need to NOT run a tensioner of any kind.  
>>>>>>> Will it be a 2-speed kickback setup with no tensioner, and you can 
>>>>>>> manually move the wheel to accommodate one of the three rings?  If you 
>>>>>>> do 
>>>>>>> that, then you need new rear brake setup for each wheel position.  Will 
>>>>>>> it 
>>>>>>> be front brake only?  
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Have fun with it, whatever you do.
>>>>>&

Re: [RBW] Re: Clem Smith Jr vs Polyvalent Lowkicker?

[Mr. Ray]

The Polyvalent being low trail with a 60mm fork rake has NO toe overlap.  
My own Large Polyvalent has no toe overlap; not even close unless I was 
wearing clown shoes.  Since the Polyvalent is an "all-rounder" the top tube 
length is not extra long (like the Clem) so swept back handlebars with a 90 
degree upright sitting position (using a generous lay-back seatpost) can 
still feel cramped.  You could get more room with an extra long stem 
(i.e.150mm) but that just changes the steering feel too much in a negative 
way.  If you don't mind a 60 degree or lower riding position, the 
Polyvalent is a very good and flexible production bike.  For example, the 
frames disc brake tabs allows the choice of 26", 650b or 700c wheels.  
Since the frames tubeset is on the stiff side, comfort can be increased by 
having wheels built and parts selected using a knowledgeable wheel 
builder.  
On Tuesday, August 20, 2024 at 5:52:13 PM UTC-4 Garth wrote:

> Being that tall myself there's no way I'd ride the Polyvalent as the toe 
> overlap alone disqualifies it was practical. 
>
> This one would be more suitable. It's also for discs and 650b or 700c 
> wheels. The front-center should be alright with either wheel size. 
>
> https://www.somafabshop.com/shop/soma-frameset-buena-vista-disc-teal-metallic-5615?category=990&search=buena+disc#attr=4583
>
> On Tuesday, August 20, 2024 at 4:51:25 PM UTC-4 Chris Halasz wrote:
>
>> Paul 
>>
>> Let us know or PM me (but others may be interested) if you need any 
>> particular 64cm Clem measurements. 
>>
>> - Chris 
>>
>> On Tuesday, August 20, 2024 at 10:39:12 AM UTC-7 paulje...@gmail.com 
>> wrote:
>>
>>> Wow - thank you all for sharing your excellent tips and suggestions! I 
>>> think we'll likely go with the Clem considering the lower step-thru, less 
>>> chance of toe overlap, quill stem for dialing in handle bar height and the 
>>> more stable / magic carpet ride quality of the Clem. I do need to measure 
>>> the garage and make sure it will fit without too much trouble as it does 
>>> seem quite long. 
>>>
>>> On Monday, August 19, 2024 at 3:54:33 PM UTC-4 Paul M wrote:
>>>
 Another thing to consider is that the 64cm Clem L has the longest 
 effective top tube of any Rivendells. I had a 64cm current model Clem and 
 it was a challenge to get the right fit for me. With woman generally have 
 shorter torsos than men, that definitely needs to be considered. I also 
 experienced a front-end shimmy if I took both hands off the handlebars 
 with 
 a loaded rear rack trunk mounted on the top of the rack. 

 On Monday 19 August 2024 at 12:35:46 UTC-7 Mackenzy Albright wrote:

> I'm on team Clem jr and will never part with mine. I think the low 
> kicker is a beautiful bike and would not be a bad choice either. 
>
> I find a big deal breaker for some is often access to bike racks on 
> cars and transit and storage due to wheelbase. If these are not a concern 
> I'd go with a Clem purely on my personal preferences. I really enjoy the 
> extra top tube which gives adjustment vs putting the longest possible 
> stem 
> on a bike. 
>
> On Monday, August 19, 2024 at 10:24:58 AM UTC-7 rmro...@gmail.com 
> wrote:
>
>> I’ve used a Wald basket mounted to a Tumbleweed “T” rack on the front 
>> of my Clem L & the rear of my Gus. In both cases I also utilized the 
>> triple 
>> mounts of the rack to support King “many things” cages to hold my fork 
>> mounted bags. The front wheel flop on the Clem was far more noticeable 
>> than 
>> any tail wag on the Gus. Having said that, neither bothered me much. 
>> Both 
>> bikes handled the load well.
>> Sent from my iPhone
>>
>> On Aug 19, 2024, at 11:17 AM, Chris Halasz  wrote:
>>
>> 
>>
>> I assume someone pregnant prefers a more upright position, 
>> irrespective of its declared benefits to the health of one's pelvic 
>> floor 
>> (important to me, anyway), and overall spinal and wrist comfort 
>> (subjective, I suppose). It makes sense then to extend the chainstay, 
>> and 
>> so proportionately the overall triangle from the center of mass of the 
>> more 
>> upright cyclist and the bicycle wheelbase. 
>>
>> Likewise, it makes more sense for the cyclist who rides low and in 
>> the drops to ride a shorter chainstay and so a shorter wheelbase than 
>> the 
>> Clem. 
>>
>> At barely 6'1", with an 89cm PBH, my 64cm Clem L has a more 
>> accessible 'step-through' than my 60cm Platypus, and, to me, the 
>> Platypus 
>> appears to have much more step-through access than the Lowkicker. I 
>> don't 
>> see how one could really step through the Lowkicker without considerably 
>> tilting the bike. 
>>
>> - Chris 
>> On Monday, August 19, 2024 at 7:13:54 AM UTC-7 DJC wrote:
>>
>>> Paul,
>>>
>>> I own b

[RBW] Re: WTB EZPZ bag

[Ray Varella]

Doug,
It replaced a basket and Mark’s rack. 
I rarely maxed out the capacity of the basket so having the weight 
cantilevered off the front end was unnecessary. 
If I lived where I could leave a bike unattended I would have made better 
use of the basket. 
The bag carries most of what I need it to and is quick to swap to a 
different bike. 
For me, it has more utility. 

Ray

On Friday, August 9, 2024 at 5:26:12 AM UTC-7 Doug H. wrote:

> Ray,
> I've heard good feedback about the EZPZ bag. Let us know how you like it.
> Doug
>
> On Thursday, August 8, 2024 at 11:23:56 PM UTC-4 Ray Varella wrote:
>
>> All set on the bag. 
>>
>> Thank you 
>>
>> Ray
>>
>> On Sunday, August 4, 2024 at 11:49:15 AM UTC-7 Ray Varella wrote:
>>
>>> Did anyone buy an ezpz handlebar bag that isn’t working out for them?
>>>
>>> If so, I would be interested. 
>>>
>>> Email offlist RayVarella 007 at gmail dot com 
>>>
>>> Thank you 
>>> Ray
>>>
>>

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Re: [RBW] Re: tire experiment

[Ray Varella]

I did a similar tire swap on my platypus. 
I had been running Rene Herse 55mm knobbies in endurance casing.
I recall Jan saying they have similar rolling resistance to the standard 
casing and I have zero complaints about them. 
I just wanted to try a bit smaller tire. 
I went with the Ultradynamico Cava JFF in 48mm
The bike definitely steers a little quicker, not a lot but it does feel 
like it rolls smoother. 
I’m still nursing a torn hamstring but I rode for about 3 hours which is at 
least an hour longer than I have been riding. 
I have another bike that runs 42mm so the 48s were a good choice. 
We are living in good times when it comes to tire choices. 

Ray

On Monday, August 12, 2024 at 8:34:42 AM UTC-7 Patrick Moore wrote:

> The nominally 48 mm, actually 49+ mm (27 mm IW rims) Oracle Ridges on my 
> Matthews dirt road bike look svelte and slim compared to the 60s they 
> replaced and compared to the 72 mm WTB Rangers on the Monocog I used to 
> own. They almost look lost under the 80 mm Kelpie fenders (designed for 72 
> X 584 and 60 X 622 tires) In fact, ~50 mm is the narrowest I'll use for an 
> allrounder bike in our sandy soil conditions.
>
> On Mon, Aug 12, 2024 at 6:08 AM Doug H.  wrote:
>
>> Indeed 43 mm are generally not slender but I had a set of 42s on my Clem 
>> for awhile and they look slender on it. I found them good on pavement and 
>> good enough on gravel. Let us know how they work for you Richard!
>> Doug
>>
>> On Monday, August 12, 2024 at 7:06:07 AM UTC-4 Will Boericke wrote:
>>
>>> Only in the Riv group are we calling a 43mm tire "slender".  :)
>>>
>>> Will
>>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: WTB EZPZ bag

[Ray Varella]

All set on the bag. 

Thank you 

Ray

On Sunday, August 4, 2024 at 11:49:15 AM UTC-7 Ray Varella wrote:

> Did anyone buy an ezpz handlebar bag that isn’t working out for them?
>
> If so, I would be interested. 
>
> Email offlist RayVarella 007 at gmail dot com 
>
> Thank you 
> Ray
>

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[RBW] WTB EZPZ bag

[Ray Varella]

Did anyone buy an ezpz handlebar bag that isn’t working out for them?

If so, I would be interested. 

Email offlist RayVarella 007 at gmail dot com 

Thank you 
Ray

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[RBW] Re: For sale Nitto Mark’s rack and Nitto stems

[Ray Varella]

Rack and used stem sold
Unused stem still available 

Thank you 

On Wednesday, July 31, 2024 at 6:50:46 PM UTC-7 Ray Varella wrote:

> I have a Mark’s rack and two Nitto stems I’m not likely to use anytime 
> soon. 
> The stems are both Technomic Deluxe 90mm extension 26.0 bar clamp
> These are the 190mm quill length not the tallux version. 
> One stem is unused, it has been dry fit but never used $65 includes 
> priority shipping 
> The other is used and shows some horizontal marks which should be visible 
> in photos 
> $40 includes priority shipping 
> The rack has a set of 10” long struts and the diving board mount. It’s in 
> nice shape $85 including priority shipping 
> Email off list rayvarella007 ar gmail dot com
> Let me know if you need more pictures 
>
> Thank you 
>

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[RBW] Re: Torn hamstring rehab suggestions

[Ray Varella]

Hey Brian,
I spoke with one of my coworkers who has also been off with an injury. 
The offered him some acupuncture sessions that really helped him. He was 
very skeptical going in. 
I don’t have anything else to offer besides my condolences and hope you get 
better soon. 

Hey Dave,
Ten years is a long time. Was your tear in the muscle or did it tear away 
from the bone?
I’ll speak with my PT about the curls when I see her tomorrow. 

Prior to my MRI they were treating it as a strain but it’s a high grade 
tear. 
The surgeon also said if it isn’t better by the end of August they can do a 
plasma replacement therapy. 
They put some of your blood in a centrifuge and inject the plasma into the 
tear. 

Thank you guys 

Ray

On Sunday, July 28, 2024 at 12:08:36 PM UTC-7 Eric Doelling wrote:

> Hi Ray 
>
> "Does anyone have any suggestions on what else I could be doing or is this 
> just how things go once you are in your 60s?"   I do! 
>
> I am 65 and have suffered from torn hamstring for 10 years.  Historically 
> PT did not help but I need to add that I was not the best patient.  Mine 
> happens from cyclical efforts.  
>
> I also tore my bicep a few months ago and since PT readily solved that 
> problem ( back to pull ups and hanging) I gave him my hamstring to try.  I 
> am encouraged with the improvements.  My PT thinks outside the box and 
> responds to my feedback.  I found most PT's just keep to the scripted 
> course and that did mostly nothing for my hamstring.  
>
> Whats working for me were some unusual SI joint stretches my PT performed 
> on me and most of all I think is performing Nordic Curls.  I have my wife 
> sit on my ankles while I am prone on the bed.  I do 2 sets of 15.  You need 
> to be a little bit patient to gain strength to perform the curls better and 
> better.  PT says the curls help to realign the fibers from the muscle 
> tears.  I just purchased a bar from Amazon to hold my legs for the curls.  
>
> Credit to Dave at https://www.precisionptw.com/
>
> Eric
>
>
> On Saturday, July 27, 2024 at 10:46:45 AM UTC-7 Ray Varella wrote:
>
>> I’m not looking for medical advice. 
>> I tore my femoral bicep a few months back. 
>> I’ve had an MRI and seen an orthopedic surgeon. 
>> The tear is in the muscle and not where it attaches to the bone so they 
>> said it will heal on its own. 
>> I see a physical therapist and I have been walking and doing light 
>> cycling. 
>> I know there are a lot of people here who have dealt with injuries and 
>> I’m wondering if any of you have had a similar injury. 
>> Mine is listed as a high grade tear. 
>> It’s been over 4 months and I’m still not able to lift anything heavy 
>> without putting a lot of strain on the muscle. 
>> Does anyone have any suggestions on what else I could be doing or is this 
>> just how things go once you are in your 60s?
>>
>> Thank you 
>> Ray
>>
>

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[RBW] Torn hamstring rehab suggestions

[Ray Varella]

I’m not looking for medical advice. 
I tore my femoral bicep a few months back. 
I’ve had an MRI and seen an orthopedic surgeon. 
The tear is in the muscle and not where it attaches to the bone so they 
said it will heal on its own. 
I see a physical therapist and I have been walking and doing light cycling. 
I know there are a lot of people here who have dealt with injuries and I’m 
wondering if any of you have had a similar injury. 
Mine is listed as a high grade tear. 
It’s been over 4 months and I’m still not able to lift anything heavy 
without putting a lot of strain on the muscle. 
Does anyone have any suggestions on what else I could be doing or is this 
just how things go once you are in your 60s?

Thank you 
Ray

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Re: [RBW] NBD - Periwinkle Sam

[Ray Varella]

Nice bike Ted. 
It sure speaks volumes to see three of the same bikes in separate 
locations. 
When the search is over you can just focus on riding. 
There’s a valuable lesson in there for us fiddlers. 

Ray

On Friday, July 26, 2024 at 10:22:30 AM UTC-7 Keith P. wrote:

> “Iridescent”
> Looks great Ted 👌
>
> (Thanks for the photo metadata too)
> k.
>
> > On Jul 26, 2024, at 9:06 AM, Ted Durant  wrote:
> > 
> > 
> >> On Jul 26, 2024, at 10:59 AM, Ted Durant  wrote:
> >> 
> >> Greetings from sunny SE Wisconsin, and welcome to Wisconsin Sam. He was 
> going to be Midwest Sam, to go with West Coast Sam and East Coast Sam, but 
> East Coast Sam is moving to Minnesota next year. Maybe we'll have to go 
> with Great Lakes Sam and Great Plains Sam.
> > 
> > Sorry … for the photo nerds -
> > Lens: Olympus 45mm/f1.8
> > Camera: Olympus OM-D EM1
> > 
> > td
> > 
> > 
> > --
> > You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google 
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> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/rbw-owners-bunch/BF471211-973F-4942-88FA-90D3BB2D12A1%40gmail.com
> .
>

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[RBW] Re: Sam Hillborne seatpost

[Ray Varella]

Blue Lug lists 26.8 in their specs for Sams 

Ray

On Saturday, July 20, 2024 at 12:54:04 PM UTC-7 Johnny Alien wrote:

> There you goI was completely wrong on that lugged part. :)
>
> I will say I owned a SH back in the day and it was 27.2 BUT they could 
> have changed that as things have indeed changed on their bikes over the 
> years.
>
> On Saturday, July 20, 2024 at 3:01:48 PM UTC-4 Ryan wrote:
>
>> Believe it or not(get a life, Ryan) - I couldn't find seat post diameter 
>> anywhere on SH specs on the RBW site or in any of the newsletter specs for 
>> later iterations of this frame...but as a counter-example for Johnny Alien, 
>> I do remember Leah's quest for a nicer long-setback post for her 
>> Platypus(lugged frame) limited her options somewhat because it  took a 
>> 26.8; RBW lists this. And I think the Roaduno (lugged) is also 26.8. The 
>> Roadeo does list 27.2 as the seatpost size as does Homer 
>> Hilsen.Butbupkis for the Sam unless the frame brochure they put out 
>> from time to time lists it somewhere. 
>>
>> All that being said, easiest way to find out is to give RBW HQ a call
>>
>> On Saturday, July 20, 2024 at 12:40:52 PM UTC-5 Johnny Alien wrote:
>>
>>> 27.2
>>>
>>> For some reason I feel like there is some rule of thumb like...lugged 
>>> frames are 27.2 and tigged or filet brazed or different. I am probably 
>>> wrong about that.
>>>
>>> On Saturday, July 20, 2024 at 10:08:47 AM UTC-4 Ron Cramer wrote:
>>>
>>>> It is probably on the website and I missed it. What seatpost on the 
>>>> new Sam Hillborne: 26.8 or 27.2?
>>>> Thanks 
>>>>
>>>

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[RBW] Re: Which one to keep

[Ray Varella]

A nod to Bill “the enabler” Lindsay  

Chris, I’ve been riding both and I’d be fine with either one but if forced 
to choose, I would keep the Clem for a lot of the same reasons you 
outlined. 
I need to work on bike storage as much as anything. 

Ray

On Thursday, July 18, 2024 at 8:40:36 PM UTC-7 Chris Halasz wrote:

> Ray 
>
> A few details I've experienced: 
>
> I prefer the step-through clearance on the Clem. 
>
> I could not bear scratching the Platy, the most beautiful bike I've ever 
> owned. Probably just me, but I'm OK if the Clem gathers a little character, 
> or a lot of character. It's just a grab it and go experience for me. 
>
> I really like Tosco bars, and I think they look better with the Clem than 
> with the Platy. 
>
> I did not like the appearance of larger tires on the Platy, and think they 
> look fine on the Clem, although I don't ride tires wider than 43mm. 
>
> I can't really speak to the lightness of the Platy ... a little dog 
> traveled with me everywhere I went on the Platy. So, with front rack, 
> basket, and little dog, that bike was fifteen pounds heavier in the front. 
> Note also that I ride the 64cm Clem, and wonder if its tubing is the same 
> as the smaller Clems? I know the seat post is larger. 
>
> I was stopped more often, and received more compliments on the Platy, but 
> I still get a lot of compliments on the Clem. Got another one today. 
>
> Finally: I do miss the Platy, but think the Clem is more me! 
>
> - Chris 
>
> On Thursday, July 18, 2024 at 10:51:22 AM UTC-7 rau...@gmail.com wrote:
>
>> Chris, I've read a bunch of posts on this thread already about the 
>> Platypus vs the ClemSmithJr. All I am getting from the posts is that the 
>> ClemSmithJr can handle touring better in terms of carrying gear and that it 
>> has a longer wheelbase  whereas the Platypus will be lighter and zippier 
>> but fully capable. Having owned both are there any other descriptions you 
>> can add to both of these bikes. Would you be able to share how you narrowed 
>> down which one to keep.
>>
>> Ray
>>
>> On Wednesday, July 17, 2024 at 2:25:32 PM UTC-5 Chris Halasz wrote:
>>
>>> Ray 
>>>
>>>
>>> I think it was Sam Maloof <https://www.malooffoundation.org> who said 
>>> that a chair should first and foremost invite the individual to come and 
>>> sit. Rivendell bikes invite me to ride them, far more than any other 
>>> bicycle manufacturer, and the ride, like Sam’s rocking chairs, always 
>>> exceed my expectation of the invite. 
>>>
>>>
>>> I’ve owned a number of Rivendell bikes (Road Standard, LongLow, 
>>> Rambouillet, Bleriot, Bombadil, Sam, and a Platypus) and now a Clem. 
>>> Clearly I like Rivendell bikes, and the mindset at Rivendell. 
>>>
>>>
>>> I ride the Clem 99% on the road, around town, and typically on two 
>>> extended rides each week. To me, the Clem is the zenith of the Rivendell 
>>> experience. I feel like it kindly informs other cyclists that they don’t 
>>> have to ride carbon frames, or skinny tires, or clipless pedals, or … to 
>>> just enjoy their authenticity. To me, me, it’s the most authentic of the 
>>> current Rivendell design. To me, it most inspires wabi-sabi and beausage. I 
>>> won’t argue any of those points: my truth, maybe no one else’s. 
>>>
>>>
>>> Is there one that is more inviting to you? 
>>>
>>>
>>> Now, can you folks help me decide which color Montecito Pinto goes best 
>>> with the Clem green in my driveway? I'm thinking of only keeping one. 
>>>
>>>
>>> [image: Montecito_Pintos.jpg]
>>>
>>>
>>> Cheers, 
>>>
>>>
>>> Chris 
>>>
>>>
>>> On Wednesday, July 17, 2024 at 6:37:47 AM UTC-7 NYCbikeguy wrote:
>>>
>>>> Having ridden both, I'd say that the clem may face some limitations 
>>>> when it comes to heavier loaded rides (that you may not be expecting or 
>>>> planning) because the flex on the frame is a lot more noticeable on the 
>>>> clem than the platy. 
>>>>
>>>> On Wednesday, July 17, 2024 at 8:13:37 AM UTC-4 Johnny Alien wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> If they were full crossover for me and I could honestly use either one 
>>>>> in all situations then I would take the one that I felt was the most 
>>>>> comfortable or honestly which one I just felt looked better. I will say 
>>>>> that if I was absolutely forced down to

[RBW] Re: Which one to keep

[Ray Varella]

Hey Joe,
They’re both great bikes but the Clems are kind of sleepers. You wouldn’t 
guess they ride as nice as they do just by looking. 

Chris, Thos Moser makes some really nice furniture. 
I’m going to build a tool chest to work out the construction details and 
then build a blanket chest. 
Chairs weren’t that difficult for me once I got over the handwringing. 
I use hand tools and a workbench that I built in my carport. 
The chair I showed was my third one and I’m really satisfied with the 
comfort. I gave the second to my neighbor and he loves it. 

I may end up keeping both bikes but the Clem is staying till my niece wants 
it. 

Cheers 
Ray

On Wednesday, July 17, 2024 at 3:38:13 PM UTC-7 Chris Halasz wrote:

> Ray
>
> Very impressed with the chair! 
>
> I've built a number of items in our home, more Thos. Moser 'shaker' style, 
> but never a chair! 
>
> As to the cars: We often ride through the San Ysidro Ranch on our bike 
> rides, and there were a half dozen of those things in the lot. I think 
> they're funny. Makes my back groan to think of getting in and out of one. 
> But my back is very happy riding the Clem. 
>
> - Chris 
>
> On Wednesday, July 17, 2024 at 1:56:13 PM UTC-7 Ray Varella wrote:
>
>> [image: IMG_1849.jpeg]I honestly think the Clem may inch ahead on 
>> comfort but not hugely so. 
>> I agree that the Clem is an exceptionally nice riding bike and I’ve been 
>> riding Rivendells for almost 25 years. 
>> I like them a lot and if I had more room I would likely have more of 
>> them. 
>>
>> Chris, I have never had the pleasure to test ride a Sam Maloof chair but 
>> I spend several hours a day in one of my own and never want for anything 
>> more comfortable, I can’t help you with the car but bright orange 
>> compliments that lime olive paint nicely. 
>> Here’s my chair 
>>
>> Thank you 
>> Ray
>> On Wednesday, July 17, 2024 at 12:25:32 PM UTC-7 Chris Halasz wrote:
>>
>>> Ray 
>>>
>>>
>>> I think it was Sam Maloof <https://www.malooffoundation.org> who said 
>>> that a chair should first and foremost invite the individual to come and 
>>> sit. Rivendell bikes invite me to ride them, far more than any other 
>>> bicycle manufacturer, and the ride, like Sam’s rocking chairs, always 
>>> exceed my expectation of the invite. 
>>>
>>>
>>> I’ve owned a number of Rivendell bikes (Road Standard, LongLow, 
>>> Rambouillet, Bleriot, Bombadil, Sam, and a Platypus) and now a Clem. 
>>> Clearly I like Rivendell bikes, and the mindset at Rivendell. 
>>>
>>>
>>> I ride the Clem 99% on the road, around town, and typically on two 
>>> extended rides each week. To me, the Clem is the zenith of the Rivendell 
>>> experience. I feel like it kindly informs other cyclists that they don’t 
>>> have to ride carbon frames, or skinny tires, or clipless pedals, or … to 
>>> just enjoy their authenticity. To me, me, it’s the most authentic of the 
>>> current Rivendell design. To me, it most inspires wabi-sabi and beausage. I 
>>> won’t argue any of those points: my truth, maybe no one else’s. 
>>>
>>>
>>> Is there one that is more inviting to you? 
>>>
>>>
>>> Now, can you folks help me decide which color Montecito Pinto goes best 
>>> with the Clem green in my driveway? I'm thinking of only keeping one. 
>>>
>>>
>>> [image: Montecito_Pintos.jpg]
>>>
>>>
>>> Cheers, 
>>>
>>>
>>> Chris 
>>>
>>>
>>> On Wednesday, July 17, 2024 at 6:37:47 AM UTC-7 NYCbikeguy wrote:
>>>
>>>> Having ridden both, I'd say that the clem may face some limitations 
>>>> when it comes to heavier loaded rides (that you may not be expecting or 
>>>> planning) because the flex on the frame is a lot more noticeable on the 
>>>> clem than the platy. 
>>>>
>>>> On Wednesday, July 17, 2024 at 8:13:37 AM UTC-4 Johnny Alien wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> If they were full crossover for me and I could honestly use either one 
>>>>> in all situations then I would take the one that I felt was the most 
>>>>> comfortable or honestly which one I just felt looked better. I will say 
>>>>> that if I was absolutely forced down to one Rivendell I think it would be 
>>>>> the Clem.
>>>>>
>>>>> On Wednesday, July 17, 2024 at 12:10:25 AM UTC-4 Hoch in ut wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>> Priori

Re: [RBW] WTF a 26.0 Albastache for my questionable Canti Rom?

[Ray Varella]

Jinxed,
I sent you a pm

Ray

On Wednesday, July 17, 2024 at 1:25:25 PM UTC-7 Mackenzy Albright wrote:

> I had substantial crack in the paint of my Clementine. My curiosity got to 
> me eventually and I sanded down the paint to the tubing and luckily the 
> frame was totally fine - I did realize how terrible the factory paint was 
> though. It was a substantial piece of mind knowing my frame wasn't toast vs 
> my terrible touch up. 
>
> On Wednesday, July 17, 2024 at 11:00:32 AM UTC-7 Doug Van Cleve wrote:
>
>> Huh, weird.
>>
>> In my limited experince, a front end hit is usually pretty obvious if 
>> you're looking for it.  I would also expect the damage to be right at the 
>> lug tip, and it doesn't look to me like it is.  Irregardless, I really 
>> doubt whatever that is will ever be a (non-emotional) issue and it's easy 
>> to keep an eye on.  I would ride i with extreme prejudice...
>>
>> Doug
>>
>>
>> On Wed, Jul 10, 2024 at 2:53 PM 'jinxed' via RBW Owners Bunch <
>> rbw-owne...@googlegroups.com> wrote:
>>
>>> I may have made a hasty purchase and ended up with a bum frame. But I'm 
>>> going to try to make the best of it.
>>>
>>> So...I parted ways with my 26" Atlantis a while back in hopes to find a 
>>> 55-56ish 700c Hillborne (short stay) to replace it. I watched Riv, and the 
>>> used market for literally years, and just kept missing them. I fell short 
>>> of a wanted ad, as I didnt really NEED one and figured it would pop up one 
>>> day. Well, I sort of gave up and stopped checking. However, as age, and 
>>> circumstances will do, I am now creeping closer to the need of a more 
>>> upright and comfortable bike. I check in here and BOOM...a new run of short 
>>> stay Hillbornes!! AND they're sold out in my size. Ugh. 
>>>
>>> Deflated, I go back to trolling the used market, and my first search 
>>> brings up a 55 Canti Rom...20 minutes from me. THIS would do nicely and was 
>>> a previous target of obsessive searching. The seller informs me there's a 
>>> brake lever ding on the TT and dent on the seat stay. Not deterred, we plan 
>>> to meet. 75yo gentleman who clearly has ridden some bikes, and seems to be 
>>> a DIY mechanic. Bike looks good, albeit with an odd build. Not Rivvy, but 
>>> more hodgepodge of commuter/2000 road bike. Rode fine, set up was not 
>>> comfortable for me but the frame fit, the dents were unfortunate but not 
>>> apparently damaging. We strike a deal, and I bring it home.
>>>
>>> The lay of the land: 
>>> Threadless adaptor with super upright stem and Noodle bars which I do 
>>> not like
>>> Thorn proof tubes and 28c rock hard commuter tires
>>> BIG gel saddle on a layback post
>>> Canti rear, side pull front
>>>
>>> All of this meant, I needed some time to strip it all down, acquire some 
>>> parts, and rebuild to my preference. No worries...until I got to it a few 
>>> weeks later.
>>>
>>> After stripping it mostly down, I started to clean the frame and noticed 
>>> a bizarre, what I thought was a scratch, in the paint on the top tube just 
>>> at the end of the head tube lug point. Looking closer, its more like the 
>>> paint is crackled or scrunched. My gut sank. I immediately checked under 
>>> the DT for a bulge or other signs of front impact. Nothing. Seems totally 
>>> fine. But the TT really looks odd. I've worked in shops for 30 years and 
>>> have seen many cracks, dents etc...generally there's apparent trauma you 
>>> can trace to other areas, but this is a new one to me being isolated. The 
>>> other oddity that may be normal on these...is that the TT feels like it's 
>>> externally butted to fit the HT lug. Nothing massive, but just a slightly 
>>> perceptible increase in OD right about the point of the lug. Imagination? 
>>> By design? Bulged from impact? No idea.
>>>
>>> All that said, I am bummed, but absolutely hold no ill will towards the 
>>> seller. I truly believe he had no idea and was completely up front with the 
>>> damage he knew about. AND it could just be a scratch or other paint 
>>> anomaly. Yes, I could have the paint stripped back and find someone 
>>> knowledgeable to inspect it, but I feel like the options in the end are the 
>>> same...spend more than the frame is worth to repair it, or just ride it and 
>>> "keep an eye on it". I'm thinking the latter is the bette

[RBW] Which one to keep

[Ray Varella]

I’m curious how you guys would choose between two bikes you already have. 
I have a Clem and a Platypus, they are both very comfortable and extremely 
nice riding bikes. 
There’s so much overlap between them I don’t need both. 
I’m leaning towards the Clem because it will fit my niece better than the 
Platypus will. 
The Platypus is a really beautiful bike. 
I know some members have duplicates or multiples of bikes they like. 
How would you guys choose between the two?

Thank you 
Ray

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Re: [RBW] Re: My new Wired Magazine article about fat, supple tires

[Joe Ray]

Thanks Patrick,

How many bikes is that?!

Picking up on your last point, I had a set of 700x38 Barlow Pass XLs on 
there which, after 8-10 months of riding measured 40mm on my rims, then 
swapped to Snoqualmie Pass 44 XLs, and, on the same rims...also 40...even 
after a couple months of riding, and a few days in storage pumped to the 
max on the sidewall.

I'm running 40 psi on those, which is about the minimum on the RH Tire 
Calculator. Feels great.

Joe



On Sunday, June 2, 2024 at 9:19:45 AM UTC-7 Patrick Moore wrote:

> IME, even very supple skinny tires can be surprisingly smooth if not 
> pumped too hard; I recall being surprised almost 35 years ago at how smooth 
> 23 mm Specialized 26X1" Turbos felt compared to overinflated 35 mm Fatboys 
> (I thought then that the label max pres was the correct pressure). Much 
> later, Michelin Pro Races at 22 mm actual on narrow rims felt surprisingly 
> comfortable at 80 f/90r, and today's 28 mm (actual, skinny rims) Elk Passes 
> feel almost pillow-like at 55/60 except over the damned 8" to 12" expansion 
> bumps on my access road that I keep meaning to complain to the city about.
>
> Speaking of which: I'm curious about others' preferences for air pressure: 
> what pressure for what tire -- width, type of casing -- on what surfaces. I 
> recently started riding my ~49 mm (27 mm IW rims) regular casing Oracle 
> Ridges at 17 psi, down from the 20 that felt harsh over horse hoof chop and 
> stutter bumps, and yes, 17 feels smoother over small bumps while not 
> compromising the road-tire-like handling (on the Matt #1) on pavement -- 
> the ORs handle like the slick Soma Supple Vitesse SLs on pavement, and both 
> tires make the bike handle as I'd asked Chauncey to make it handle, much 
> like my Riv Roads.
>
> Current preferred pressures for max bump comfort with pavement cornering 
> precision:
>
> ORs ~49 mm actual, combined pavement and (sandy) dirt: 17 psi.
>
> Extralight 559X42 mm Naches Passes, mostly pavement, brief firmer dirt: 
> 30/35. I expect I could use as low as 25/30 but this bike sees 30-40 lb 
> rear loads.
>
> 175 gram 559X28 mm Elk Passes: pavement: 55/60, and were it not for 
> expansion cracks I guess I could drop 5 psi from each.
>
> I used to put 20 psi in the 61 mm paper-thin sidewall Big Ones but now I'd 
> drop that to under 17; cornering on pavement be damned, they never did 
> corner crisply, and I expect that at 15-16 with 27 mm IW rims the sidewalls 
> would remain stable.
>
> I rode the 72 mm actual WTB Rangers as low as 12-13; since these were 
> ridden almost always on sandy soil, and I'd have used that as the norm 
> except that these were tubeless tires on ~20-21 mm IW non-tubeless rims, so 
> I usually kept them at 15.
>
> Patrick Moore, who wishes that the Elk Passes measured closer to the 
> labeled 32 mm on the admittedly 13 mm IW rims.
>
>
> On Sun, Jun 2, 2024 at 9:58 AM Jay  wrote:
>
>> I know a lot of roadies, who don't mountain bike, who have never tried a 
>> tire about 30-32mm.  Before these nice, supple tires became more readily 
>> available I had mountain biked and had tires for riding that bike on the 
>> roads (off-season), and then I got into cx bikes I had 32mm (ish) tires, 
>> and they were all awful (and over-inflated!).  When I went up to 40mm that 
>> was an improvement.  A supple tire of anywhere north of 32-35, on a bike 
>> that is not overly stiff, pumped to the right pressure, tubeless if you 
>> like, is magic.
>>
>> Nice article!
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: My new Wired Magazine article about fat, supple tires

[Joe Ray]

Thanks Ted,
Was definitely thinking about all the potential feedback--and wishing 603s 
became a thing so I could plug them into my older bikes.
Thanks for the good words!
Joe

On Thursday, May 30, 2024 at 8:36:15 AM UTC-7 Ted Durant wrote:

> On Wednesday, May 29, 2024 at 6:42:21 PM UTC-5 Joe Ray wrote:
>
> Along with being a Homer owner, my day job is as a journalist for Wired 
> magazine. My regular beat is kitchen equipment, but this past weekend I had 
> a story out about the glories of riding on fat, supple tires:
>
>
> I enjoyed the sidebar with all the appropriate disclaimers to head off the 
> inevitable internet feedback on how uninformed you are. And a shoutout to 
> 603 ...you have definitely been drinking Grant's Kool-Aid!
>
> Ted Durant
> Milwaukee WI USA 
>

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[RBW] My new Wired Magazine article about fat, supple tires

[Joe Ray]

Hi Gang,

Along with being a Homer owner, my day job is as a journalist for Wired 
magazine. My regular beat is kitchen equipment, but this past weekend I had 
a story out about the glories of riding on fat, supple tires:

https://www.wired.com/story/fat-bike-tires-are-better-than-skinny-bike-tires/

In it, I interview Russ Roca of the A Path Less Pedaled Youtube channel 
(and Sam Hillborne owner), Jan Heine of Bicycle Quarterly/Rene Herse, and 
ace bike mechanic Steve Gadingan at Seattle's Bike Works. Of course, 
Rivendell shows up in there, too.

Turns out it was the most popular story on Wired for the holiday 
weekend--we might be on to something! ;)

I invite you to read it and would love to hear your thoughts.

Cheers and happy riding!

Joe

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Re: [RBW] Edelux II Headlamp Moisture - Is my light cooked?

[Mr. Ray]

As Peter (the distributor of SON) writes, it will dry out.  Has happened to 
both my Edelux 1 and 2 lamps over the years with no effect to the lights 
output.

On Sunday, March 17, 2024 at 8:02:53 AM UTC-4 peter...@gmail.com wrote:

> It's possible for water to enter the Edelux II housing, though it is not 
> easy. However, the electronics inside are permanently encased in some sort 
> of goop (that's a highly technical term) and will never be affected by 
> water. So just keep riding and after a few days in good weather the little 
> droplets will disappear.
>
> PJW
>
> On Sun, Mar 17, 2024 at 1:16 AM Collin A  wrote:
>
>> Howdy Folks,
>>
>> I wanted to query the collective experience of the group and ask a couple 
>> questions regarding the ingress of moisture in my edelux II headlamp:
>>
>>1. For those that have experienced it, does the condensation 
>>eventually dry out? If not, has anything you've tried been successful in 
>>resolving it?
>>2. Have there been any instances of a light NOT cutting 
>>out/dimming/etc. once there is moisture within the light?
>>3. At the end of the day, should take the "wait and see" approach or 
>>just call in the warranty before it craps out?
>>
>> I only just noticed that there was condensation on the inside of the 
>> glass this afternoon while removing fenders, so I have no idea how long 
>> it's been there (although I did do a particularly wet ride last weekend). 
>> Additionally I haven't noticed any reduced output or other issuesyet. I 
>> marked the extents of the moisture and took a few photos to see if it'll 
>> change over time.
>>
>> Cheers,
>> Collin, a bit moist, in Berkeley
>>
>> -- 
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>>  
>> 
>> .
>>
>
>
> -- 
> Peter White
>

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[RBW] Re: mounting a light to Nitto 32F

[Mr. Ray]

I have my Edelux mounted the same way and the Wald rail rubbed off a bit of 
aluminum at the top of the light even with a few millimeters of clearance.  
I ended up bending the interfering rail upwards for more clearance.  This 
worked but the cosmetic damage is done.  If I were to do it again, I would 
buy the hanging Edelux or use this Tanaka basket mount:  

https://www.somafabshop.com/shop/320707-tanaka-dynamo-light-mount-for-basket-ii-6544?page=3&category=950#attr=



  

   

On Sunday, November 26, 2023 at 8:07:49 PM UTC-5 Paul Richardson wrote:

> howdy folks
>
> i have a nitto 32f 
> 
>  rack 
> with a wald basket, and i'm trying to figure out the best way to mount an 
> edelux to it.  (the light is an upright mount, not a hanging mount).
>
> i bought the nitto lamp holder, not realizing that its intended use seems 
> oriented toward a rack with actual struts, as opposed to the 32f which is a 
> single piece and thus cannot use the strut mount.  i've got it bolted onto 
> one of the braze-on mounts, but the clearance is quite bad and i don't like 
> it.  i also tried it on a b+m light mount that i zip-tied to the rack, but 
> that left me wanting both aesthetically and functionally.  hoping the pics 
> help this make sense.  
>
> i'd welcome any input on mounting ideas.
>
> thanks!
> paul
> takoma park, md.
>
>
>

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Re: [RBW] Craigslist, etc 2023

[Ryan Ray]

Here is my Bleriot for sale on CL in Seattle or I will pay my LBS 150 bucks 
to box it up right. I bought a bigger Homer instead!

https://seattle.craigslist.org/see/bik/d/seattle-61cm-rivendell-bleriot/7683878809.html

On Thursday, November 9, 2023 at 1:48:24 PM UTC-8 reeb wrote:

> could be a scam. same photos from a chicago seller: 
> https://www.ebay.com/itm/155871116274?hash=item244aa47bf2:g:Gg4AAOSwQglk~fZ4
>
> On Thursday, November 9, 2023 at 4:41:01 PM UTC-5 eric...@gmail.com wrote:
>
>> [image: Screenshot 2023-11-09 at 4.32.02 PM copy.jpg]
>>
>> Clem H
>> 52cm
>> $741
>> New Jersey
>> https://www.mercari.com/us/item/m80573702381
>>
>>

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Re: [RBW] Re: A. Homer Hilsen fender clearance

[Ryan Ray]

Thanks!

On Wed, Nov 8, 2023 at 6:25 AM aeroperf  wrote:

> My 2019 Homer fit Velo Orange Zeppelin 52 fenders no problem.
> It had 559 brakes as well, but it was a 650b tire size.
>
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> .
>

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[RBW] A. Homer Hilsen fender clearance

[Ryan Ray]

Does anyone have first hand experience with fitting fenders in their 
Hilsen? I was hoping for 700x50mm Stainless Berthouds but as I need to oder 
them from EU I was hoping to see if anyone has tried it first. Or another 
fender combo work well? I have the R559s but I will switch brakes if I have 
to!

- Ryan


P.S. First Riv since I bought a Rambo off this list many years ago


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Re: [RBW] Re: Fender Installation and Usage Experiences

[Mr. Ray]

Ben's Cycle (Milwaukee) also carries Berthoud.  
On Thursday, October 26, 2023 at 1:05:52 PM UTC-4 ted.l...@gmail.com wrote:

> Brian, do you have a state-side distributor for the Berthound fenders? 
> These look interesting. I've found them on the Berthound Cycles website but 
> they're almost the same price as the Honjo fenders after shipping from 
> Europe.
>
> On Thu, Oct 26, 2023 at 10:35 AM Brian Turner  wrote:
>
>> Ted, have you looked at the fenders made by Berthoud? I recently called 
>> up Peter White and ordered a set for my new Atlantis project. They're 
>> stainless, and smooth, but more affordable than some of the other offerings 
>> you mentioned above. The best thing however, I only had to drill one hole 
>> to match up to my rear brake bridge mounting point. Everything else was 
>> pre-drilled (the stays, the hole near the bottom bracket / chainstay 
>> bridge, and the front fender crown). You still have to have some good 
>> attention to detail to get good, clean fender lines... but having almost 
>> all of your holes pre-drilled certainly takes almost all of the real stress 
>> out of the equation.
>>
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>>  
>> 
>> .
>>
>
>
> -- 
> Ted Wood < ted.l...@gmail.com >
>

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[RBW] Re: FS: Dromarti leather cycling shoes

[Ray Varella]

Thanks Ted,
I had a bootmaker look at my boots on my feet once and say “pour half a 
bottle of rubbing alcohol in each boot and then wear them”.
It did a good job of stretching the leather. 
My left foot is a triple E and the right is a double E

Ray
On Sunday, August 20, 2023 at 9:35:09 AM UTC-7 Ted Durant wrote:

> On Sunday, August 20, 2023 at 11:24:29 AM UTC-5 Ray Varella wrote:
>
>
> To further hijack this thread…Ted, have you found shoes to fit wide feet?
>
>
> I went from the Dromarti to Shimano XC5 (marginally wider than Dromarti) 
> to Lake MX1 wide (definitely wider). I can wear the Lake shoes for rides 
> that aren't too long (say 2 hours or less) and be reasonably comfortable. 
> Of course, Lake has discontinued it. Lake seems to be the only company that 
> has realized that a wider toe box is a selling point.
>
> The great thing about the Dromartis is they are real leather and will 
> stretch to fit your foot. I was just finding that it wouldn't stretch 
> enough to relieve the pressure on the bunionettes on my feet.
>
> Ted Durant
> Milwaukee WI USA
>

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[RBW] Re: FS: Dromarti leather cycling shoes

[Ray Varella]

To further hijack this thread…Ted, have you found shoes to fit wide feet?
I’ve contacted Dromarti but they haven’t seemed receptive to making a run 
of wider shoes. 
Maybe if enough people showed interest and offered to place deposits. 

Ray
On Sunday, August 20, 2023 at 8:10:07 AM UTC-7 Ted Durant wrote:

> On Friday, August 18, 2023 at 7:10:21 PM UTC-5 dalin...@gmail.com wrote:
>
> ... They fit me like Shimano shoes. Would not advise guys with super wide 
> feet to apply. 
>
>
> I concur. As I've noted elsewhere, I've gone to wide "feet shaped" shoes 
> and platforms. At the risk of hijacking the thread, I also have a pair of 
> Dromarti shoes, black, size 43, available. And some Shimano XC5's, gray, 43.
>
> Ted Durant
> Milwaukee WI USA
>

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Re: [RBW] 26.8 seatposts with generous setback

[Ray Varella]

Leah,
   Would cutting a couple inches off your seatpost solve your problem?
A 350mm long seatpost is pretty long and likely intended for frames with 
very extreme slope to the top tube
Standard Rivendell issue seatposts measure 250 mm from the seat clamp to 
the end of the shaft. 
350mm would add approximately 4 inches to the length. 
Does that help clarify your question?

Ray
 
On Tuesday, July 25, 2023 at 9:01:32 PM UTC-7 krhe...@gmail.com wrote:

> Leah,
>
> I do not know an answer for your question. I did own an older version of 
> the IRD Wayback seat post only to discover that I could not get the seat 
> post down far enough to my liking on my Clem. I sold the post. 
> My next move was to find and buy a Sakae Ringyo MTE-100 27.2mm post with a 
> shim to fit my 29.8mm seat tube.  I have had these posts on other bikes of 
> mine in the past. I did find one on eBay late last year and bought it. It 
> solved a number of problems for me. One was the amount of setback I wanted 
> and secondly, I could set the post down a lot farther than I could than 
> with the IRD Wayback post.  I remain very happy and pleased to this day 
> with my long torso and short limbs. 
>
> May I suggest that you buy a Sakae Ringyo MTE-100 seat post off of eBay 
> with a shim. I do not know how much setback you need. I know it may not be 
> the most pretty post, but it solves some problems that I had. 
>
>
> https://www.ebay.com/itm/266342844000?hash=item3e03454660:g:frAAAOSwo81kmkUz&amdata=enc%3AAQAI8FLf%2FUeKjieKezFbVz6E9gAvKDh5HcoG4VtgU1iFW1NWJlrtlB8aYsomq%2FYB8kFjNEmIJZ7CJ4nQahP8fzyDoHavsHhcO2LwqhfxAJrSBKgR80ofpTP54ZjWbfYdRid7uciTYf4BOhd244iPZbPLcmdTzQLGOxptIGt7rApnbIY5yUiDBghaCQRn1Ci%2F0mS173o4kIWrxOtpCHwQVWuR1AHrztBe%2BTDTMlniIK77f%2FrUYuDI4NyxDtm5MoiCPm82jMCnAbU9ZVjHHw61%2BbP14LSz8ZqMh5wTXORNvUi%2BSjvE3Z%2BU3TK7ppru64Sb9n%2Fz%2Bg%3D%3D%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR8b_7YOyYg
>
> Trying to help.
>
> I put a piece of white tape on the upper part of the post to mark as a 
> stopping point of insertion as shown in the picture. 
>
> Kim Hetzel
> Yelm, WA. [image: Terry Cite X Gel Saddle after modifications to SR 
> MTE-100 seat post - March 8, 2023.jpg]
>
> On Tuesday, July 25, 2023 at 5:32:54 PM UTC-7 Bicycle Belle Ding Ding! 
> wrote:
>
>> Does anyone know if you can get the seatpost lower with the new design? 
>> My IRD post from Riv needs 5 inches and I’ve got it totally slammed. It 
>> would be nice to know I had a post I could put a little lower. Also, the 
>> product page shows lengths of 250-350mm and the way I read it, it is 
>> measuring the shaft of the seat post, not the setback? How would one know 
>> which length to choose?
>> Leah
>>
>> On Saturday, July 22, 2023 at 3:55:06 PM UTC-4 Garth wrote:
>>
>>> Very Good Max ! 
>>>
>>> I got the Soma email that showed the seatpost and noticed it looked 
>>> different, as it was. It's been redesigned with a new forged head and now 
>>> is 30mm setback rather than the 50mm. 
>>>
>>> Just so anyone ordering the post understand IRD doesn't make the 
>>> previous version anymore. Read the fine print ! 
>>>
>>> On Saturday, July 22, 2023 at 2:58:18 PM UTC-4 maxcr wrote:
>>>
>>>> Things are working for me without swapping seatposts and simply by 
>>>> pushing my saddle forward instead of backwards.
>>>>
>>>> If anyone is still looking, the IRD posts seem to be back at Somafab: 
>>>> https://www.somafabshop.com/shop/ird-seatpost-wayback-compact-6972?search=compact#attr=346,4463,1073
>>>>
>>>> Max
>>>>
>>>> On Saturday, July 22, 2023 at 8:08:15 AM UTC-4 Garth wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> I'd guess it's working out for Max since he hasn't posted an update, 
>>>>> that's usually how it goes when all is well !  
>>>>>
>>>>> I can't say bike fitting is mysterious, I'd call it intuitive. While 
>>>>> others can help steer you in the right direction, the fine tuning is all 
>>>>> an 
>>>>> "inside job", so to speak. Just as no one can eat or breathe for another, 
>>>>> the Life that Lives In and As ALL isn't up for "negotiation". It MUST BE 
>>>>> ! 
>>>>>
>>>>> Since I've been re-familiarizing myself with riding in road position 
>>>>> with DT shifters and new saddle, I've moved mine forward some 15mm+ from 
>>>>> when I started with it. It just keeps feeling better, as in more 
>>>>> efficient/effective use of what strengths I have. Yesterday I 
>&

[RBW] Re: Feedback wanted on ordering from circles-jp.com in Japan

[Mr. Ray]

Ordered from them in the past.  Zero problems.  Circles is an established 
online shop in Japan.  If the product/price is rightgo for it.

On Saturday, July 22, 2023 at 11:43:53 PM UTC-4 krhe...@gmail.com wrote:

> I am considering ordering a bicycle accessory from Circles-jp.a web store 
> in Japan. 
>
> https://shop.circles-jp.com/
>
> What are your thoughts and comments about your experiences ordering from 
> them; pros and cons.
>
> Thank-you.
>
> Kim Hetzel
> Yelm, WA.
>

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[RBW] Re: MINT MUSA 58cm "Disc" Hunqapillar Waterford x D&D Paint

[Mr. Ray]

Interesting project.  If I may ask, how much did adding ISO disc tabs cost?

On Monday, May 22, 2023 at 2:31:12 PM UTC-4 jasonz...@gmail.com wrote:

> https://crustbikes.com/a/shopicial/topics/164653
>
> Frame and associated "kit" for this build project listed on the Crust 
> Trader.  As I mentioned in my post about my beloved Quickbeam FS add. I am 
> totally cutting things back and decided this is a bike that I have lusted 
> for and paid dearly for (lol?) but figured I should put it out there for 
> someone to tour and ride, more than I'll have the capacity for.
>
> Details are on the crust page. please email me if youre seriously 
> interested.  It is being sold as a kit since I don't have the need for the 
> bits and bobs and won't have the time to part out individually.  I'm asking 
> 4,750.00 shipped to lower 48. Open to reasonable offers.
>
> More photos of the parts will be added as I can get to them later today.
>
> Cheers.
>

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[RBW] Re: lock ring too tight

[Mr. Ray]

Looks like your lockring is "lightweight" aluminum.  The shards are likely 
aluminum as the cassette cog is steel.  You don't say what your freehub 
body is.  I would remove and inspect the lockring (replace or re-use) and 
re-tighten to correct torque.

On Sunday, April 30, 2023 at 11:27:34 AM UTC-4 Adam wrote:

>
> 
>
> 
> Thanks for the thoughts, here's a quick pic. 
> 
>
> I don't have time to take the wheel off for a better image at the moment 
> (running out the door), but here's a sense of the bite into the cassette. 
> I'm wondering if I missed the thin washer that's supposed to be there.
>
> Any other thoughts, I'm happy to hear. (esp if it means I can wait to deal 
> with this!)
>
> If anyone has advice on a low-budget torque wrench let me know.
>
> THANKS
>
> Adam
>
>
> On Sunday, April 30, 2023 at 9:37:45 AM UTC-5 Tony Lockhart wrote:
>
>> Hi Adam, 
>>
>> Sorry to hear about the complications. I’m curious to see close-up 
>> pictures of the damage.
>>
>> Depending on how much risk you’re comfortable with I think you could take 
>> progressively longer rides to make sure everything is OK. In this situation 
>> I would remove the parts, inspect, reinstall, and torque to the proper 
>> spec…. Followed by a number of rides that increasing distance. This might 
>> be a good teachable moment for you, and I don’t think being cautious could 
>> hurt you.
>>
>> Good luck!
>> Tony
>>
>> On Sunday, April 30, 2023 at 7:06:35 AM UTC-7 Adam wrote:
>>
>>> Hi all,
>>>
>>> Asking for thoughts on a silly mistake that I made last night.
>>>
>>> I was in the process of replacing a cassette (had not tried this myself 
>>> before) and I cranked way too hard on a fairly long wrench and 
>>> over-tightened the lock ring. It dug into the cassette and produced some 
>>> little shards. (I did grease the threads, and don't think it's 
>>> cross-threaded, all was fine until the END)
>>>
>>> The question: does it make better sense to try to fix this now (loosen 
>>> and re-tighten), or should I just save this problem for an older, wiser me 
>>> in a year or two when I change the cassette again?
>>>
>>> I know I should get a torque wrench, but . . .
>>>
>>> THANKS!
>>>
>>> Adam
>>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: Son Hub advice

[Mr. Ray]

Like others have said, get the hub for the brakes you use.  If you still 
want to "future proof", get the SON disc hub for Shimano "centerlock" 
discs.  It provides a slightly stronger wheel build than the "6 bolt ISO" 
disc version; spokes closer to equal on both sides.  Also pick the 12mm 
thru axle version.  With an adaptor you can make this version work with 
QR's.
On Saturday, April 15, 2023 at 10:25:05 AM UTC-4 lconley wrote:

> Disc brakes with quick release hubs are a PITA.  Get the widest SON 
> non-disc hub that that you can afford.
> But remember, this advice is coming from an overweight guy who builds new 
> wheels for himself several times a year, so I go all-in on wheel strength, 
> I have a huge parts stash, and I know that obsolete parts are just an eBay 
> search away.
>
> Peter White, the generator hub guru, is the importer for SON hubs and also 
> sells Panasonic generator hubs (until his current stock sells out) $60 for 
> non disc, $70 for disc. You could build two Panasonic hubbed wheels for the 
> price of a SON hubbed wheel if you wanted. But get the wide SON hub wheel.
>
> Laing
> Who owns four SON hubs (1 disc), two Shimano generator hubs,  one Shutter 
> Precision disc generator hub, one Sturmey Archer OG drum brake Dynohub, one 
> Panasonic disc Dyna Hub, one Sanyo bottom bracket mounted generator, one 
> Flying Pigeon OE bottle generator, and one VO sourced generator hub (that 
> doesn't play well with LED lights) that I cannot remember the manufacturer 
> of.
>
> On Saturday, April 15, 2023 at 7:47:32 AM UTC-4 peter...@gmail.com wrote:
>
>> Hi, 
>>
>> I'm looking to get the Son dynamo hub. Considering it's price I'd rather 
>> make an informed (still quite impulsive) decision..hah!
>>
>> I have a bike with both rim and disc brake mounts (with QR) so I usually 
>> buy disc hubs, to future proof the hub purchase, but continue to run 
>> v-brakes (for now). Is this a sound approach to continue with this buy i.e. 
>> disc hubs with v-brake rims?
>>
>> Based on SON's website, I think Son28 would be appropriate considering 
>> it's better to charge devices at low speeds. So, in this case I would take 
>> the "SON 28 Hub Dynamo - 6-Bolt - QR".
>>
>> Thank you for your insight!
>> Peter
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: Riv Riders Interactive Map is Live!

[Ray Varella]

I would use the address of the local police station for my location. 

I use their phone number whenever I get spam inquiries on something. 

Ray

On Friday, March 24, 2023 at 6:45:51 PM UTC-7 John Rinker wrote:

> I'm playing with the idea of riders being able to add a photo of their 
> bike such that when one clicks on a map pin not only do you get info in the 
> sidebar but also an image of a beautiful bicycle. (You can check out the 
> pin I added at RBW as an example)
>
> Could be a fun addition. Of course, anyone who has more than one Riv would 
> have to make a choice. 
>
> Cheers, John
>
> On Monday, March 20, 2023 at 9:05:38 AM UTC-7 Drew Saunders wrote:
>
>> Good idea! I found the street address of my nearest post office and 
>> changed my answer to that. It's close enough, and if any bike thieves go 
>> there, they'll be very, very, confused.
>>
>> On Sunday, March 19, 2023 at 10:05:08 PM UTC-7 iamkeith wrote:
>>
>>> This is great.  Thanks for putting it together! 
>>>  I have couple of suggestions, more for the participant pi-droppers than 
>>> for John:
>>>
>>> 1)  Please be cautious and think twice about listing your actual home 
>>> address.  Especially if you live somewhere like Denver or Oakland, where 
>>> bike theft is a major industry.  Thieves could use this info to stake-out 
>>> and target your place.
>>>
>>> 2)  it would be great to list the model(s) and size(s) of bikes you 
>>> own.  So many times I wish I could have test-ridden something, but didn't 
>>> know how to find an example nearby.  This could really help.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> On Thursday, March 16, 2023 at 5:33:44 PM UTC-6 John Rinker wrote:
>>>
>>>> The map is growing nicely! Got riders in Oceania and Europe on the map! 
>>>> Still awaiting the first rider in Sri Lanka to pop up.
>>>>
>>>> If you've added yourself, to the map please note that you can edit your 
>>>> responses in case you...I don't know...get a new bike? Change your riding 
>>>> style? Misspelled your name? Move from Arizona to Babylonia? 
>>>>
>>>> To do this, simply click on the 'Riv Rider Registration' and you can 
>>>> choose to 'Edit your response.' 
>>>>
>>>> Cheers, John
>>>>
>>>> On Saturday, March 11, 2023 at 12:59:58 PM UTC-8 John Rinker wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> The Map of Riv Riders is ready!* Thanks to Dave's example of the 
>>>>> 'Unicycle Community Map' I've put together a similar interactive map that 
>>>>> Riv Riders can now populate with your location. 
>>>>>
>>>>> As mentioned, the purpose of this map is to help Riv riders find each 
>>>>> other, connect and plan rides.
>>>>>
>>>>> Here's a link to the site:
>>>>>
>>>>> Map of Rivendell Riders 
>>>>> <https://sites.google.com/view/mapofrivendellriders/home>
>>>>>
>>>>> There is a Google form registration that, once completed and manually 
>>>>> updated by me, will put a pin of your location on the map. 
>>>>>
>>>>> You can 'drop' this pin in a couple of ways:
>>>>>
>>>>> 1. Provide your address
>>>>>
>>>>> 2. Provide a random address in your city or town
>>>>>
>>>>> 3. Provide map coordinates (latitude, longitude)
>>>>>
>>>>> Check it out and if it seems interesting to you then register and wait 
>>>>> for your pin to show up. 
>>>>>
>>>>> Cheers, John
>>>>>
>>>>> *I'll call it a beta version because I just learned how to connect 
>>>>> Google forms, maps, and sites together. Seems to work well though.
>>>>>
>>>>

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[RBW] Re: Dynamo Wiring inside the Fork and Frame?

[Ray Varella]

Matthew,
Have you tried the wire that Velocity Lumino sells?
It’s much thinner than some of the other typically available wire for 
dynamos and is definitely up to the task. 

JMHO
Ray

On Wednesday, March 22, 2023 at 9:53:38 PM UTC-7 Matthew Williams wrote:

> Hi everyone,
>
> In the weeks to come I’m going to be revisiting the wire-inside-the-fork 
> trick. However, the hole is too small for the existing dynamo wires and I 
> do not want to enlarge the hole.
>
> What would happen if I used a smaller-gauge wire inside the fork, to 
> connect the dynamo to the headlight?
>
> Will a smaller-gauge wire be unable to handle the voltage/amperage from 
> the dynamo? Will the headlight and taillight outputs be weaker? Or will the 
> difference between the existing/stock wire and a smaller gauge be 
> imperceptible?
>
> As always, your wisdom, advice, experience, and opinions are appreciated!
>
> On Sunday, November 20, 2022 at 10:13:40 PM UTC-8 Matthew Williams wrote:
>
> Hi everyone, 
>
> Most bikes I see with the SON dynamo have the wire wound around the right 
> front fork blade. I want to run the wire inside the fork using the small 
> hole near the dropout. 
>
> I’ve already fished a thin wire through the fork as a leader i.e. I can 
> attach the leader to the SON dynamo wire and pull it through the fork, 
> unless the dynamo wire is too thick. Below are photos of the leader wire I 
> fished through the fork. 
>
> Is this possible, or is it a bad idea? Has anyone here managed to achieve 
> this setup? If so, how did you do it, and please post photos of your 
> internal wiring setups! 
>
>

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[RBW] Re: WTB: Ruthworks Storm Series Micah or Brevet handlebar bag

[Ray Varella]

Pm sent

Ray

On Friday, March 17, 2023 at 11:51:25 AM UTC-7 andyree...@gmail.com wrote:

> Hello group,
> If anyone has a Ruthworks Storm Series Micah or Brevet handlebar bag 
> they'd like to sell, I'd gladly buy! 
>
> Cheers, 
> Andrew 
> Franklin TN
>

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[RBW] Re: Tubus Log EVO on a 650B Platypus

[Mr. Ray]

Tubus Logo rear rack is a great rear rack for short/normal chainstay's 
because the pannier rails sit further back.  Platypus has long chainstays 
so a rack without compensation would be more appropriate.  Logo will fit 
650B.  If not, Tubus sells an accessory rack kit to adjust rack mounting 
points.

On Monday, March 13, 2023 at 1:55:57 PM UTC-4 C Lin wrote:

> Tubus website says it works for 26" and 28" wheels so I assume it should 
> work for 27.5" 650B?
>
>
> Carlos in "usually sunny but less so this winter" So Cal.
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Widest fenders that easily fit a Joe Appa?

[Mr. Ray]

Doug, the "long" is 13 cm longer at the front of the fender for ALL sizes.  
To keep the front of the fender from rattling and perhaps cracking 
prematurely over time, you can purchase an extra set of fender stays to 
secure the extended front to a fork stay (i.e. midpoint of fork).  I'm 
using a front rack so the longer front of the fender is attached to the 
rack platform using a fender clip.  Fender coverage is personal so you'll 
have to decide what length works for you.

That said, the Berthoud 650B x 60mm have very good coverage and are 
designed with no front mudflap necessary (think classic French 650B 
Randonneur).  Both front and back fender are slightly longer in length 
compared with Honjo or V.O. fenders in the 650B x 60mm size.  If you don't 
care for such excellent coverage, you can also use the Berthoud 26" x 60mm 
and re-size them to fit 650B.  The 26" x 60mm are readily available in the 
USA (i.e. Peter White and Bens Cycle).  I have never seen the Berthoud 650B 
x 60mm sold anywhere in the USA which is why I purchased direct from 
France. 

On Friday, March 10, 2023 at 8:17:27 AM UTC-5 Doug Van Cleve wrote:

> Alrighty, maybe the correct response was "no U.S. retailers have 650B x 60 
> Berthouds" ;^)  Thanks for the info!  Any thoughts on the long vs. short 
> for a bike that doesn't have a front rack now, but conceivably could in the 
> future?
>
> Doug
>
> On Thu, Mar 9, 2023 at 6:08 PM Mr. Ray  wrote:
>
>> I bought my Berthoud 60mm x 650b here in stock.  If you have a front 
>> rack, buy the "long version" in the link otherwise buy the "short version":
>>
>>
>> https://berthoudcycles.fr/en/1406-stainless-smooth-fenders-650b-x-60mm-front-long-w-hardware-polished.html?_gl=1*4zzmn0*_up*MQ..*_ga*MTE3NjA2MTg2MS4xNjc4NDEwMzY0*_ga_LLD45P3CY9*MTY3ODQxMDM2NC4xLjEuMTY3ODQxMDM3MS41My4wLjA
>> .
>>
>> They also sell them in black.
>>
>>
>> On Thursday, March 9, 2023 at 5:40:28 PM UTC-5 Doug Van Cleve wrote:
>>
>>> Not so fast, Doug!  Alas, there are no 60mm Berthoud 650B fenders that I 
>>> can find, so it looks like the V-O 58mm wavies are the best easy choice 
>>> after all...
>>>
>>> Doug
>>>
>>> On Thu, Mar 9, 2023 at 3:36 PM Doug Van Cleve  wrote:
>>>
>>>> Thanks Edwin :^)  These might be my winner, cheaper than anything but 
>>>> on sale V-O and the widest (of the economical options) that will fit 
>>>> without manipulation...
>>>>
>>>> Doug 
>>>>
>>>> On Thu, Mar 9, 2023 at 2:34 PM Edwin W  wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> Berthoud 60mm (700c) fit my 58cm Joe Appa fine with no manipulation.
>>>>>
>>>>> Edwin 
>>>>>
>>>>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Widest fenders that easily fit a Joe Appa?

[Mr. Ray]

I bought my Berthoud 60mm x 650b here in stock.  If you have a front rack, 
buy the "long version" in the link otherwise buy the "short version":

https://berthoudcycles.fr/en/1406-stainless-smooth-fenders-650b-x-60mm-front-long-w-hardware-polished.html?_gl=1*4zzmn0*_up*MQ..*_ga*MTE3NjA2MTg2MS4xNjc4NDEwMzY0*_ga_LLD45P3CY9*MTY3ODQxMDM2NC4xLjEuMTY3ODQxMDM3MS41My4wLjA.

They also sell them in black.


On Thursday, March 9, 2023 at 5:40:28 PM UTC-5 Doug Van Cleve wrote:

> Not so fast, Doug!  Alas, there are no 60mm Berthoud 650B fenders that I 
> can find, so it looks like the V-O 58mm wavies are the best easy choice 
> after all...
>
> Doug
>
> On Thu, Mar 9, 2023 at 3:36 PM Doug Van Cleve  wrote:
>
>> Thanks Edwin :^)  These might be my winner, cheaper than anything but on 
>> sale V-O and the widest (of the economical options) that will fit without 
>> manipulation...
>>
>> Doug 
>>
>> On Thu, Mar 9, 2023 at 2:34 PM Edwin W  wrote:
>>
>>> Berthoud 60mm (700c) fit my 58cm Joe Appa fine with no manipulation.
>>>
>>> Edwin
>>>
>>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Sam Build - Wish Me Luck!

[Mr. Ray]

from the horses mouth...not necessary:
[image: Screenshot (3435).png]
https://www.rivbike.com/pages/chasing-and-facing-the-scoop

On Saturday, January 21, 2023 at 2:58:46 PM UTC-5 eliot...@gmail.com wrote:

> I have never bothered chasing the bottom bracket threads and haven’t had 
> any issues. I think if they’re well greased and you don’t have a lot of 
> resistance, I don’t see a problem. The counter argument is that it’s cheap 
> and easy to do so you might as well do it right. 
>
> On Sat, Jan 21, 2023 at 11:01 AM Ryan Bolesta  wrote:
>
>> Hi Jake,
>>
>> I’m in a similar position as you with a LimeOlive Sam! I was impatient 
>> for a full bike build from Riv and thought this would be a great 
>> opportunity to learn by building it myself. I’m just waiting on my wheels 
>> to come in later this week and then it’s full steam ahead!
>>
>> I also considered bar-ends when I saw that the mounts were out of stock, 
>> but I was able to find the s2 shifters & thumb mount combos from Blue Lug’s 
>> site!
>>
>> Question for you (or anyone): Are you going to (or is it necessary) to 
>> have the bottom bracket threads chased before installing the BB? Seems to 
>> be differing opinions on whether it's necessary across other posts on the 
>> forum.
>>
>> Best of luck with your build, excited to see how it turns out!
>>
>> On Tuesday, January 17, 2023 at 1:40:19 PM UTC-7 jak...@me.com wrote:
>>
>>> “Any changes in parts and such while thinking over the build?”
>>>
>>> Reginald - yes, a few!   I switched to bar ends as thumbie mounts were 
>>> temporarily out of stock and I was impatient.  Lots of downstream effects 
>>> from that one.  I originally wanted to go with Ergon cork grips with 
>>> something like a Billie or a Crumworks bar.  I’ll see if the bar-ends on my 
>>> old Albatross and prodigious use of Newbaums works.  It’ll be creative 
>>> (nice word for obviously DIY).  If it’s not comfy, easy enough to make a 
>>> change.
>>>
>>> With the gigantic pedals, I am concerned with toe-to-tire spacing, so am 
>>> holding off on fenders.  Also no decision on racks. Crushed that the Nitto 
>>> Potluck rack is NLA.
>>>
>>> Getting there.  Riv box delivered today, more work this weekend.  
>>> Assuming the Nexave derailer doesn’t derail me, should be finished up and 
>>> ready to ride.  (Whoa that’s a big photo - sorry). 
>>>
>>> Jake
>>>
>>> [image: A00698B8-FA9B-4BE4-8582-253D37FDB4B9.jpeg]
>>>
>>>
>>> On Monday, January 16, 2023 at 1:46:21 AM UTC-5 R. Alexis wrote:
>>>
 Congratulations How exciting when the planning and futzing over the 
 bike and parts finally come together. Any changes in parts and such while 
 thinking over the build? I know when I built the Rivendell Mountain I went 
 back and forth on several items. Thought of doing an 8 speed freewheel, 
 but 
 it seemed much when accounting for the hub set up and scarcity of 8 speed 
 freewheels. Planned on doing a Nitto built Ritchey stem, but going with 
 the 
 Softride suspension stem was a strong pull. 

 Take it slow, don't supper force anything. Take it easy with the 
 hammer! Lol!!!

 Thanks,

 Reginald Alexis

 On Saturday, January 14, 2023 at 9:37:33 AM UTC-6 jak...@me.com wrote:

> I had to say it:  "Just ship it to me".
>
> If Vince knew any better, he would have talked me out of it.I've 
> never built a bike from (mostly) scratch before, and of course it had to 
> be 
> a Riv.  Gutsy.  There may be other less flattering words for it.
>
> Learning from all of you has given me false bravado to forge ahead, so 
> I shall.  Picking parts has been a delight.  I have been embracing the 
> anticipation of arriving shiny bits as  patience will most definitely be 
> virtue.  Just one more box from Riv and I'll have all I need.  I think I 
> have a hammer around here somewhere.
>
> If I blow it, you'll never hear from me again.  If it rolls fast and 
> true, I will post a glorious, victorious photo from Flatistan, FL.
>
> See any parts you like?  Wish me luck!
>
> #goheavyontheboeshield
>
> [image: Sam Parts.jpg]
>
>
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>>  
>> 
>> .
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: Latest Riv Emailed Newsletter

[Ray Varella]

Is Joan Baez in the photo?
She had a birthday a week or two ago

Ray

On Saturday, January 21, 2023 at 9:37:46 AM UTC-8 George Schick wrote:

> Anyone know why an old photo of what appears to be a very young Paul 
> McCartney is included in a kind of collage pics from Riv headquarters in 
> the latest (and in some previous) newsletters?
>
>

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Re: [RBW] bottom bracket toubleshooting trivia

[Mr. Ray]

Don't worry.  Your "new" UN91 bb's are likely over 15 years or older since 
leaving the Shimano factory.  The grease inside has probably changed 
viscosity due to non-use.  Cartridge bb's don't usually require a "ream and 
face" of the bb shell so if the cups are torqued to spec just attach cranks 
and ride.  The spindle should spin smoothly after breaking in.  My last 
UN91 wasn't torqued to spec and lasted over 30,000 miles.  I only tossed it 
because I tossed the frame and couldn't get the cups loose easily.

On Sunday, January 15, 2023 at 1:52:56 PM UTC-5 Scott wrote:

> Edit correction to my post, please.
>
> Second sentence of third paragraph of original post should read:
>
> When I turn the spindle by hand it is not smooth (definitely some 
> resistance and a tad sticky)*, unlike* the one I installed in Atlantis or 
> an uninstalled on.
>
>
>
> On Sunday, January 15, 2023 at 11:44:35 AM MST, 'Scott' via RBW Owners 
> Bunch  wrote: 
>
>
> Hey, Bunch:
>
> Pinging the group's knowledge for input/feedback on an issue I'm having 
> with an install of a new cartridge style BB in a new frame.
>
> I'm building a new Atlantis and Gus. I installed a new BB (Shimano XTR 
> UN91) in Atlantis and torqued to spec. It's butterlicious smooth. Installed 
> cranks and gave them a spin. It's what every man, woman, and child wants. 
>
> I installed same BB (also new) in Gus and tightened to spec. When I turn 
> the spindle by hand it is not smooth (definitely some resistance and a tad 
> sticky) like the one I installed in Atlantis or an uninstalled one. Why is 
> that? I checked it before install, and it was butter smooth. I uninstalled 
> it from Gus, and it spins butter smooth. I reinstalled main body section to 
> spec, and it is butter smooth, no change. When I install the opposing cup 
> (Shimano calls it an adapter), at this point is when I begin to notice a 
> notable change in spindle rotation smoothness.
>
> I've ensured proper shell widths. And I've ensured shell/cartridge faces 
> are clean and blemish-free.
>
> Of note, opposing cup spins freely during install for about one third the 
> way to full seat. From there it spins freely part of rotation and not 
> freely otherwise. I can turn it by hand still using splined-tool, but there 
> is definitely resistance during part of the rotation. After I can't go any 
> further by hand, I fully seat with torque wrench.
>
> Could it be that the threads on either side of the shell are not exactly 
> coplanar, since threads are not continuous from one side of shell to the 
> other?
> It shouldn't be a shell facing issue, because the opposing cup doesn't 
> interface with shell face.
>
> Confounding to me. There isn't much to installing a new cartridge style BB 
> into a new frame...screw it in. That's the problem, in part. There's 
> nothing to correct with install technique. I'd love to be wrong and get it 
> butter smooth like one in my Atlantis, for example.
>
> Please, share your thoughts as to what the source of issue may be and 
> recommended remedy!
>
> Scott in (I want it to be spring, summer, and fall) Montana
>
>
>
>
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> .
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[RBW] Re: ISO banana connectors (M and F) or small spade connectors

[Mr. Ray]

You can buy the Supernova version (cold crimp).  They cost a bit more but 
are available at Peter White Cycles.  He also has the 2.8mm spade 
connectors.

On Friday, January 13, 2023 at 2:13:29 PM UTC-5 Patrick Moore wrote:

> Velolumino is still out of the banana connectors, and I'm still looking 
> for 2 pairs (ie, 2X male + female), or ditto for *small* spade connectors 
> -- VL offers 2.8 mm but no male ones: so, 2X 2.8mm spade connectors, male + 
> female.
>
> Happy to pay outrageous unit retail, tho' also happy to pay less.
>
> Or, point me to a source that has either in cheap bulk lots.
>
> Thanks.
>
> -- 
>
> ---
> Patrick Moore
> Alburquerque, Nuevo Mexico, Etats Unis d'Amerique, Orbis Terrarum
>
>

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[RBW] Re: Rivendell-esq fat bike

[Mr. Ray]

Just find a bike with chainstays that can accommodate 4.5" tires.  Long 
wheelbase is not necessary since the volume of the tires would be your 
"comfort and suspension".

On Thursday, December 15, 2022 at 2:21:16 PM UTC-5 Joe D. wrote:

> Hello Rivendell aficionados! The short version: I’d like some advice on 
> picking a fat bike (4-5” wide tires) that shares similar ride 
> characteristics with the current crop of Rivendell long chainstay-long 
> wheelbase bikes (e.g. Clem, Atlantis, Platy, Gus/Susie).
>
> The long version: I’m in the market for a full-on fat bike, with true 4-5 
> inch wide tires. I live in Montana and my previous winter riding with 
> studded 3 inch tires just wasn’t enough. We’re a one car family, so in 
> addition to riding on winter trails or snowy forest service roads for fun, 
> I’ll use the bike for groceries and errands as well. And as much as I’d 
> love an Atlantis or Platy for dirt roads, bike camping, and light trail 
> use, the more economical choice would be to get a set of 29 inch wheels for 
> a fat bike and run 2.8 or 3 inch tires in non-snow season for an all year 
> off-road bike. Hence the importance of making a good choice now. 
>
> How I came to desire a Rivendell-esq fat bike: A friend in another state 
> got a 2019 Clem and raves about the comfy, stable ride with the long  chain 
> stays/wheelbase. But the real kicker was when I got a Yuba Mundo Lux cargo 
> bike (https://yubabikes.com/cargobikestore/yuba-mundo-lux/) for hauling 
> my two kids around. The swept back bars get me sitting upright, and the 
> crazy long chainstay (753mm) and wheelbase (1410) make 150lb loads totally 
> manageable. It’s like a Cadillac. Since the Yuba, I’ve vowed that all my 
> bikes will be long and upright. Fortunately upright stems and swept back 
> bars can take care of the upright part for near any bike, so that leaves 
> chainstay/wheelbase length as the big question for a fat bike.
>
> For reference, scroll down here (
> https://bikeinsights.com/compare?geometries=5d1ae74763bde8001707cf36,5e1faf637f17da00170c6e28,)
>  
> and you can see the chainstay/wheelbase lengths on the Clem and Atlantis, 
> both ~550mm for chainstays and ~1235mm for wheelbase. For fat bikes, 
> consider these two models (
> https://bikeinsights.com/compare?geometries=5ff009522655ff0017c6e96a,61c0a2add559210021256cf2,).
>  
> The Wyatt can actually have a longer wheelbase than the Rivendells with its 
> sliding dropouts (1250 max wheelbase). But its chainstay is only 465, still 
> long-ish for mountain bikes but not near what a Riv or cargo bike is. It 
> achieves that with a slack head tube angle that pushes the front tire way 
> out front.
>
> Alternatively, the Giant fat bike in the link has a similar max chainstay 
> length as the Wyatt (460mm) but a shorter wheelbase (1170mm), leading to a 
> more centered position on the bike. I’m unable to find any fat bikes with 
> the combination of long chainstay/wheelbase that the Rivendell’s have.
>
> Any tips on which bike, and which geometry approach in general, would get 
> me closest to the Rivendell/cargo bike-like comfort and ride quality? Other 
> fat bikes? For simplicities sake, I guess don’t evaluate factors other than 
> geometry, like frame material. For what it’s worth, there are very few 
> chromoly fat bikes.
>
> (Sorry for the length! I appreciate anyone getting into such a bike-nerdy 
> discussion)
>
> - Joe
>

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[RBW] Re: New Gus shipping from Canada

[Mr. Ray]

Last time I checked (2019), US has an $800 tax and duty exempt limit for 
purchases made outside the country (i.e. mail order)..  Anything above is 
liable for State taxes however in reality this is rarely enforced.

On Monday, December 12, 2022 at 12:01:23 PM UTC-5 rmro...@gmail.com wrote:

> Yes, the Gus I found is at a Riv dealer in Canada. Having googled until I 
> cannot stand it anymore I ask; anyone have experience with "clearance" fees 
> associated with importing a bicycle frame from Canada? The closest I have 
> come to uncovering the cost is that items valued under $2,500.00 US are 
> less expensive and easier to do than items over $2,500.00. I started a 
> Bikeflights estimate and I get the shipping cost and a message that 
> clearance fees will be calculated and added to order.

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Re: [RBW] Clem L vs Rosco Bebe

[Ray Varella]

Great picture Slin


Ray
On Monday, December 5, 2022 at 1:29:04 PM UTC-8 Slin wrote:

> Here's mine!
>
> [image: IMG_0421.jpg]
>
> On Monday, December 5, 2022 at 1:19:45 PM UTC-8 jmlmu...@gmail.com wrote:
>
>> Will confirmed that the Clem is in fact more Rosco Baby like and would 
>> make a great kid-carrier!
>>
>> Joe
>>
>> On Dec 5, 2022, at 12:41 PM, Slin  wrote:
>>
>> That's pretty cool to hear that the Rosco Bebe rides great even without 
>> the front load. I was looking at them back in the day too and thought I 
>> read that they were expected to feel weird without that load. 
>>
>> From what I understand, the Clem has become more Rosco-Bebe-like over the 
>> years, with a longer effective top tube, etc. I certainly love using mine 
>> for kid hauling :)
>>
>>
>>
>> On Wednesday, November 30, 2022 at 3:11:23 PM UTC-8 Paul Clifton wrote:
>>
>>> Has anyone ridden both a Clem L and a Rosco Bebe enough to comment on 
>>> the differences?
>>>
>>> My bebe has long since outgrown the Yepp Mini front seat, and I'm now 
>>> using the Bebe to drag a copilot.
>>>
>>> Part of me feels like I should pass the Bebe on to a new parent, but 
>>> another part of me wants to just keep it. The ride is phenomenal, and 
>>> really unlike anything else I've ever ridden and I doubt I'd ever get it 
>>> back if I let it go.
>>>
>>> The 68 degree seat tube angle is really comfortable, and the really long 
>>> effective top tube puts so much bike out in front of the rider that it 
>>> feels like it really takes the lead. It's absurdly stable on fast descents 
>>> and carves corners without any skittishness.
>>>
>>> If I was going to sell it, I'd probably replace it with a Clem as my kid 
>>> hauling townie, since I'd like to keep my Gus set up for rowdy single track 
>>> fun.
>>>
>>> So I'm curious if anyone can actually compare the two.
>>>
>>> Paul in AR
>>>
>>
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>> <https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/rbw-owners-bunch/8d1cf660-01a9-4b7a-86f5-a47ffb3b76aen%40googlegroups.com?utm_medium=email&utm_source=footer>
>> .
>>
>>
>>

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Re: [RBW] Appaloosa Purple Prose

[Mr. Ray]

Question for the frame building experts.  Obviously the damaged frame 
wasn't repaired by replacing the bent tubes with new tubes etc...  So, what 
method was used to straighten the bent tubes and re-align the frame?  Had 
the frame been properly fixed by replacing the damaged tubes from the lugs 
and then repainted (i.e a different color) this thread wouldn't exist. 

On Tuesday, December 6, 2022 at 10:11:31 AM UTC-5 eric...@gmail.com wrote:

> I love my Appaloosa and all but the all-caps throttle of WHAT OEN SOLD FOR 
> ON EBAY is too much. All this copy and no build list? 
>
> Matthew, should have said so sooner, but I'm sorry you received a bike in 
> this state and for the agony, annoyance and trauma of having to sort it all 
> out. 
> On Tuesday, December 6, 2022 at 10:08:31 AM UTC-5 Eric Marth wrote:
>
>> Tags: Rumpled, crumpled, dimpled, cracked, caked, bent, indented, 
>> inverted, squiggly, wiggly, touched-up, touch up, mustard, steel is real, 
>> steel is really bent, accident, tire marks, bent, bends, bendy. 
>>
>> It's interesting how the original ad copy raised a flag for several 
>> readers here (myself included) before we knew where this was headed. Thanks 
>> Matthew for sharing images of the bike in its mangled state. 
>>
>> That identifying blemish near the crown of the left fork is the clincher, 
>> as if there were any doubt. 
>>
>> On Tuesday, December 6, 2022 at 3:28:56 AM UTC-5 Luke Hendrickson wrote:
>>
>>>
>>> Agreed.
>>> On Monday, December 5, 2022 at 11:43:03 PM UTC-8 Joe Bernard wrote:
>>>
 All that purple prose to flip a bike he must have gotten on the cheap, 
 and we got a lecture about how one on Ebay went for $4k so this was a 
 deal! 
 So uncool. 

 On Monday, December 5, 2022 at 9:41:41 PM UTC-8 freem...@gmail.com 
 wrote:

> Hello,
>
> I contacted the seller. This bike was put on my radar by a friend who 
> is looking to make his Rivendell dream come true.
>
> The conversation with the seller was kind of weird in my opinion. 
>
> Here's how it went:
>
>
> *Me*:Hey, was the frame in an accident?
>
> **he replies immediately**
>
> *Him: *That’s an interesting first question. Yes, but what prompted 
> you to ask that?
>
> *Me:* There's a thread about your post on the rivendell forum. It's 
> my opinion that you should let folks know straight up on the ad. 
> Especially 
> for the price you're asking.
>
>
> *I stepped away from the computer until now and he sent me the 
> following two messages.*
>
> *Him: *Sure, sounds good. Curious what someone posted. Thx
>
> *Him: *Hi Jon, ok just updated my listing as I agree is totally 
> appropriate and just informed two very interested buyers. I was going to 
> talk about it in person but you’re right it’s really better to put in the 
> listing. It’s hard to tell the seat stay was ever bent. I am very curious 
> what someone posted in the forum and how fair and/or factual what they 
> said 
> is. Is there any way you can forward me the significant part of that 
> thread? I’d really appreciate it. Thx John
>
>
> The above is an unedited transcription of our exchange, and It's 
> interesting to come back to his messages, his ad update (which I didn't 
> read), and then his post deletion. Weird. 
>
> I'm glad my friend didn't end up getting the bike from him. 
>
>
> On Monday, December 5, 2022 at 4:38:55 PM UTC-8 Matthew Williams wrote:
>
>> Someone must have contacted the seller. The ad has been updated:
>>
>> "This bike is overall in great shape with just a few nicks and 
>> scratches but please note that during transport the rear steel seat stay 
>> was bent, but a very reputable local frame builder realigned/bent it 
>> back 
>> and fixed it."
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> On Dec 5, 2022, at 1:08 PM, Joe Bernard  wrote:
>>
>> "A few nicks and scratches from transport and storage.."
>>
>> Well that's one way to put it! 
>>
>> On Monday, December 5, 2022 at 12:18:45 PM UTC-8 Matthew Williams 
>> wrote:
>>
>>> Here are some more photos. I couldn't get the fork to lie flat but I 
>>> tried to capture the bent ends.
>>>
>>> With regards to, "how do you know it's the same bike?" Well, I owned 
>>> it. I know it the same way you know your own bike. I recognized it from 
>>> the 
>>> original ad photos from when I bought it, and from when I unpacked it, 
>>> and 
>>> from the build components, and from the touch-up paint on the fork, and 
>>> the 
>>> chainstay wrap, and from the month I stared at it behind my desk while 
>>> I 
>>> waited for BikeFlights to process my claim, and from the seller's 
>>> confirmation he obtained the bike from the non-profit to which I sent 
>>> it.
>>>
>>> [image

[RBW] Re: Downtube shifting boss question

[Ray Varella]

It looks like a cover to allow running a cable stop at the shifter boss. 
If you pull it off, there should be a regular shifter boss under it. 
Those caps allow you to use bar end, thumb shifters or brifters. 

Ray
On Saturday, December 3, 2022 at 9:24:24 PM UTC-8 maxcr wrote:

> Hi Everyone I'm working on a new project and bumped into this shifting 
> boss which I've never seen. They don't seem to accept a standard brass 
> ferrule.
>
> Any ideas on how to deal with these other than replacing them?
>
> Thanks
> Max
> [image: IMG_8920.jpeg]
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: Front Derailer Adjustment

[Ray Varella]

I’ve always done my initial  derailer adjustments before I install the 
chain. 
Front and rear both get installed and before the cable is connected I 
adjust the limit screw so that the front’s cage is centered on the small 
ring and the rear pulleys are centered on the small cog. 
Then I install the cables  and take up the slack, cinch the cable, run 
through the range of motion a few times to set the housing in the 
 ferrules. 
Then check the slack. 
Next, install the chain and run through the gears being careful not to run 
the chain into the spokes. 

Like Joe said, it can take a bot of fine tuning to get things perfect so I 
take my screwdriver and Allen wrench on a test ride. 
Getting the gross adjustment really close will minimize the fine tuning. 

Ray “also self taught many decades ago“  Varella

On Saturday, December 3, 2022 at 6:03:25 PM UTC-8 J J wrote:

> Joe, you’re incredibly generous with your knowledge and experience. Thank 
> you!! I’ve learned so much from your contributions to this community, and I 
> very much appreciate the basics, too. The deeper I get into working on my 
> bikes myself, the more I understand that 1) the notion of bike “standards” 
> is hilarious and 2) what might be obvious to one person is not at all 
> obvious to another. Everyone starts somewhere. You’re a great teacher, and 
> you instruct with humor and kindness. 
>
> On Dec 3, 2022, at 20:22, Joe Bernard  wrote:
>
> I do what I can, Scott! Just don't ask me how to bleed hydraulic brakes 
> or set sag on a suspension fork. I barely know what those words even mean 😬
>
>
>
> On Saturday, December 3, 2022 at 5:13:43 PM UTC-8 Scott wrote:
>
>> Joe,
>>
>> I appreciate the error on overshare/overstate philosophy.  I'm happy to 
>> discard what I already know and treasure hunt for what I don't know.
>>
>> I'm more likely to get annoyed with a lack of explanation/clarification 
>> than too much.
>>
>> I'm here to learn, not show what I know.
>>
>> My knowledge toolbox has grown - plenty of which from you - in the short 
>> time I've been in the group.
>>
>> Scott
>>
>> Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android 
>> <https://go.onelink.me/107872968?pid=InProduct&c=Global_Internal_YGrowth_AndroidEmailSig__AndroidUsers&af_wl=ym&af_sub1=Internal&af_sub2=Global_YGrowth&af_sub3=EmailSignature>
>>
>> On Sat, Dec 3, 2022 at 5:00 PM, Doug Hansford
>>  wrote:
>>
>> It may be obvious to some but I appreciate the detail. 
>>
>> Sent from my iPhone
>>
>> On Dec 3, 2022, at 6:11 PM, Joe Bernard  wrote:
>>
>> Apologies to anyone who thinks I'm explaining the obvious, I've learned 
>> over the years to start at "explain everything, assume nothing" and it's 
>> served me well. And as I said in my first post, I'm probably doing it all 
>> wrong! 😬
>>
>> On Saturday, December 3, 2022 at 2:52:07 PM UTC-8 Joe Bernard wrote:
>>
>> Trial and error bro! Basically you need the range of motion between L and 
>> H to cover the chainrings, and the cable pinched down so the shifter will 
>> move the cage through that range.
>>
>> If the shifter starts slipping you'll need to crank down on the bolt 
>> there. Silver thumbies have a little ring you turn, SunRace/Microshift use 
>> a hex bolt. 
>>
>> On Saturday, December 3, 2022 at 2:26:30 PM UTC-8 Doug H. wrote:
>>
>> Joe these are excellent instructions. My mistake is not leaving the cable 
>> loose when adjusting the low limit. Thanks!!
>> Doug
>>
>> Sent from my iPhone
>>
>> On Dec 3, 2022, at 5:00 PM, Joe Bernard  wrote:
>>
>> Of course I forget something. The cable gets tightened down (after the L 
>> setting is done) with the shifter in its most forward position, the cable 
>> is let out as much as it will go. 
>>
>>
>>
>> On Saturday, December 3, 2022 at 1:57:41 PM UTC-8 Joe Bernard wrote:
>>
>> The way I do it was self-taught decades ago and no doubt wrong but it 
>> works so here goes:
>>
>> Chain in small front/big rear like you said, L and H screws all the way 
>> out, then I adjust the L screw to get the cage just inboard enough to clear 
>> the chain. That's my low position for the derailer, I know I dont want it 
>> swinging any closer to the frame. Now I tighten the cable at the clamp and 
>> shift to the big front/small rear. Is the fd getting my chain over to the 
>> big ring? Good, now I'm screwing the H limit in just far enough to keep the 
>> chain from overshifting and tossing the chain between the ring and 
>> cra

Re: [RBW] Re: Front Derailer Adjustment

[Ray Varella]

I’ve always done my initial  derailer adjustments before I install the 
chain. 
Front and rear both get installed and before the cable is connected I 
adjust the limit screw so that the front’s cage is centered on the small 
ring and the rear pulleys are centered on the small cog. 
Then I install the cables  and take up the slack, cinch the cable, run 
through the range of motion a few times to set the housing in the 
 ferrules. 
Then check the slack. 
Next, install the chain and run through the gears being careful not to run 
the chain into the spokes. 

Like Joe said, it can take a bot of fine tuning to get things perfect so I 
take my screwdriver and Allen wrench on a test ride. 
Getting the gross adjustment really close will minimize the fine tuning. 

Ray “also self taught many decades ago“  Varella 

On Saturday, December 3, 2022 at 6:03:25 PM UTC-8 J J wrote:

> Joe, you’re incredibly generous with your knowledge and experience. Thank 
> you!! I’ve learned so much from your contributions to this community, and I 
> very much appreciate the basics, too. The deeper I get into working on my 
> bikes myself, the more I understand that 1) the notion of bike “standards” 
> is hilarious and 2) what might be obvious to one person is not at all 
> obvious to another. Everyone starts somewhere. You’re a great teacher, and 
> you instruct with humor and kindness. 
>
> On Dec 3, 2022, at 20:22, Joe Bernard  wrote:
>
> I do what I can, Scott! Just don't ask me how to bleed hydraulic brakes 
> or set sag on a suspension fork. I barely know what those words even mean 😬
>
>
>
> On Saturday, December 3, 2022 at 5:13:43 PM UTC-8 Scott wrote:
>
>> Joe,
>>
>> I appreciate the error on overshare/overstate philosophy.  I'm happy to 
>> discard what I already know and treasure hunt for what I don't know.
>>
>> I'm more likely to get annoyed with a lack of explanation/clarification 
>> than too much.
>>
>> I'm here to learn, not show what I know.
>>
>> My knowledge toolbox has grown - plenty of which from you - in the short 
>> time I've been in the group.
>>
>> Scott
>>
>> Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android 
>> <https://go.onelink.me/107872968?pid=InProduct&c=Global_Internal_YGrowth_AndroidEmailSig__AndroidUsers&af_wl=ym&af_sub1=Internal&af_sub2=Global_YGrowth&af_sub3=EmailSignature>
>>
>> On Sat, Dec 3, 2022 at 5:00 PM, Doug Hansford
>>  wrote:
>>
>> It may be obvious to some but I appreciate the detail. 
>>
>> Sent from my iPhone
>>
>> On Dec 3, 2022, at 6:11 PM, Joe Bernard  wrote:
>>
>> Apologies to anyone who thinks I'm explaining the obvious, I've learned 
>> over the years to start at "explain everything, assume nothing" and it's 
>> served me well. And as I said in my first post, I'm probably doing it all 
>> wrong! 😬
>>
>> On Saturday, December 3, 2022 at 2:52:07 PM UTC-8 Joe Bernard wrote:
>>
>> Trial and error bro! Basically you need the range of motion between L and 
>> H to cover the chainrings, and the cable pinched down so the shifter will 
>> move the cage through that range.
>>
>> If the shifter starts slipping you'll need to crank down on the bolt 
>> there. Silver thumbies have a little ring you turn, SunRace/Microshift use 
>> a hex bolt. 
>>
>> On Saturday, December 3, 2022 at 2:26:30 PM UTC-8 Doug H. wrote:
>>
>> Joe these are excellent instructions. My mistake is not leaving the cable 
>> loose when adjusting the low limit. Thanks!!
>> Doug
>>
>> Sent from my iPhone
>>
>> On Dec 3, 2022, at 5:00 PM, Joe Bernard  wrote:
>>
>> Of course I forget something. The cable gets tightened down (after the L 
>> setting is done) with the shifter in its most forward position, the cable 
>> is let out as much as it will go. 
>>
>>
>>
>> On Saturday, December 3, 2022 at 1:57:41 PM UTC-8 Joe Bernard wrote:
>>
>> The way I do it was self-taught decades ago and no doubt wrong but it 
>> works so here goes:
>>
>> Chain in small front/big rear like you said, L and H screws all the way 
>> out, then I adjust the L screw to get the cage just inboard enough to clear 
>> the chain. That's my low position for the derailer, I know I dont want it 
>> swinging any closer to the frame. Now I tighten the cable at the clamp and 
>> shift to the big front/small rear. Is the fd getting my chain over to the 
>> big ring? Good, now I'm screwing the H limit in just far enough to keep the 
>> chain from overshifting and tossing the chain between the ring and 
>> cra

[RBW] Re: For sale Suntour XC Pro seatpost

[Ray Varella]

Post is sold

Thank you 

On Saturday, November 26, 2022 at 7:31:42 PM UTC-8 Ray Varella wrote:

> This post is 26.6 and in nice condition 
> Suntour XC Pro
> It measures 275mm to the top of the shaft. 
>
> Email rayvarella007 at gmail dot com for questions or pics. 
> $55 includes shipping to the lower 48
>
> Thank you 
> Ray
>

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[RBW] For sale Suntour XC Pro seatpost

[Ray Varella]

This post is 26.6 and in nice condition 
Suntour XC Pro
It measures 275mm to the top of the shaft. 

Email rayvarella007 at gmail dot com for questions or pics. 
$55 includes shipping to the lower 48

Thank you 
Ray

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[RBW] Re: New Bike Day and first ride

[Mr. Ray]

Congratsyour rims look like DT Swiss TK540 (double eyelet) rims with 
the old decals.  The TK540 are really strong rims if wheels were built 
properly.  My set were used for loaded RTW touring for over 20,000 miles 
and were still true when bike was sold.  

On Friday, November 25, 2022 at 3:52:45 PM UTC-5 Tom Palmer wrote:

> Hi all,
> I picked a Mermaid Platypus frameset from a very nice local Riv/Crust fan. 
> Thanks Derek!
> Spent a couple of weeks doing a parts bin build. The only things I bought 
> new were 2 chains because Derek has a Clem Jr to build and needed the one 
> from this frame and a tandem length derailler cable. Was able to get the 
> first ride in today and had fit tweaked within a few miles. I am at the 
> bottom of the fit guide for the big 60cm but Will at Riv confirmed I would 
> be OK. I did get to do quick ride before I purchased so confident it would 
> work well and it does. Very nice first ride, smooth, zippy, and quick 
> handling. Already rethinking the tires- only 700x42 Continental speed 
> Rides. Just thinking bigger since my roads are fairly rough chip seal in 
> general, but want to keep fenders. I will do a second post on how large a 
> tire with fenders. Looking forward to tomorrows ride, it will be longer and 
> more hills. Build list is as follows- steel Albatross bars and steel stem, 
> Ergon grips, Tektro V brake and Avid levers, and Microshift 10 speed bar 
> end shifter shifting Deore derailler. Thompson seat post and Specialized 
> body Geometry saddle from 90's. Alfine single ring crankset. Wheels are 
> pretty nice, DT Swiss 240s hubs and not sure which DT Swiss rims. Fenders 
> are Bontrager meant for 26" tires, but fit well. 
> Planning on front rack that will tame the quick handling a bit, but worth 
> the utility. 
> Tom Palmer
> Twin Lake, MI 
>

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[RBW] Re: Rear Dynamo wiring pics / examples? non-fender

[Mr. Ray]

Good post with pictures.  The Velo Lumino banana plugs are a great deal but 
require soldering.  For anyone who doesn't have the means to solder, 
Supernova sells the same which you can "cold crimp".  I'm using the 
Supernova plugs but they can be overkill (and long).  If you just want the 
flexibility to disconnect the tail light under the seat, another option is 
to use Schmidt 2.8mm male & female connectors.  Peter White sells these for 
around .30 cents a piece.  He also sells the Supernova connectors for $16.  

https://www.peterwhitecycles.com/wiringinstructions.php

If you're dead set to mount a tail light on the seatpost, you can by pass 
the light bracket by using the SON tail light for seat post mount version.

[image: Screenshot (3215).jpg]


On Wednesday, November 23, 2022 at 1:45:02 PM UTC-5 brizbarn wrote:

> I checked on my Appaloosa for a drain hole on under side of bottom bracket 
> shell, it does have one that a wire could likely fit through.  So I'll 
> probably try that set up at some point:  Wire going from front light on 
> front rack > coiled to add flexibility from rack to downtube > run parallel 
> to shift cable to bottom bracket > into drain hole in BB > up seat tube and 
> seat post > out a hole in seat post > rear dynamo light mounted on Blue Lug 
> Bracket on saddle rail (hopefully does not get hidden when saddle bag on 
> bike) and probably use some banana plugs to make it detachable.  Maybe try 
> going up fork drain hole too, like is being discussed in another thread.
>
> Some good ideas here, thanks for sharing everyone.  I like that Blue Lug 
> bracket for saddle rail mounting, but it is sold out.  Looks like Velo 
> Lumino sells one as well, but for a lot more $. Velo Lumino 
>  also has some nice photos of wiring 
> on their site, nothing Riv specific tho. screen shot from them:
>
> [image: Screen Shot 2022-11-23 at 10.10.41 AM.jpg]
>
>  
>

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[RBW] Re: IRD Brake Lever Set Cafam-S vs. Paul Canti levers

[Mr. Ray]

I have Paul's Canti levers and was looking at the IRD Cafam levers last 
night (Soma is having 30% off sale).  To my eye, the Cafam look the same 
sans the Paul logo and Paul's groovy barrel adjusters.  Like the Paul 
levers, the Cafam have sealed bearings and are aluminum.  For the price 
(with discount) the IRD levers are an exceptional value.  If I didn't 
already have Paul levers, I would buy the IRD levers.

On Friday, November 18, 2022 at 8:05:33 PM UTC-5 BobW wrote:

> I'm looking at the *IRD Brake Lever Set Cafam-S * 
> 
>  for 
> a conversion from drops to swept back bars.  I originally was considering 
> the Paul Canti levers, which get great reviews.  Does anyone have any 
> insights on the IRD Canfam's in comparison to the Pauls??
> I think they both have bearing pivots .  
>
> thanks!!
>

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[RBW] Re: For Sale Stronglight headsets

[Ray Varella]

These are sold

Thank you 

On Sunday, October 30, 2022 at 10:16:09 AM UTC-7 Ray Varella wrote:

> Sorry, English thread, 1” 26.4 crown race
>
> On Sunday, October 30, 2022 at 10:08:58 AM UTC-7 Ray Varella wrote:
>
>> I have two Stronglight headsets, new, never installed. 
>> They look exactly like the needle bearing model (A9?) but these use 
>> cartridge bearings. 
>> $40 each plus shipping. 
>> Buy them both and I’ll pay shipping 
>> Email rayvarella007 at gmail dot com 
>>
>> Thank you 
>> Ray
>>
>

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[RBW] Re: For Sale Stronglight headsets

[Ray Varella]

Sorry, English thread, 1” 26.4 crown race

On Sunday, October 30, 2022 at 10:08:58 AM UTC-7 Ray Varella wrote:

> I have two Stronglight headsets, new, never installed. 
> They look exactly like the needle bearing model (A9?) but these use 
> cartridge bearings. 
> $40 each plus shipping. 
> Buy them both and I’ll pay shipping 
> Email rayvarella007 at gmail dot com 
>
> Thank you 
> Ray
>

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[RBW] For Sale Stronglight headsets

[Ray Varella]

I have two Stronglight headsets, new, never installed. 
They look exactly like the needle bearing model (A9?) but these use 
cartridge bearings. 
$40 each plus shipping. 
Buy them both and I’ll pay shipping 
Email rayvarella007 at gmail dot com 

Thank you 
Ray

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Re: [RBW] Re: For sale Simplex Retrofriction shifters + Suntour hub

[Ray Varella]

Suntour XC9000 front hub is still available 
Included is a Suntour grease guard rear 36 hole freewheel hub never built, 
axle has been shortened to 130mm

Thank you 
Ray

On Sunday, October 16, 2022 at 7:54:06 AM UTC-7 Ray Varella wrote:

>
> Yes but the price has increased significantly. 
> On Sunday, October 16, 2022 at 7:47:00 AM UTC-7 reynoldslugs wrote:
>
>> Is the Apple stock still available?
>>
>> PM sent
>>
>> Max in Santa Rosa
>>
>>
>>
>> On Sunday, October 16, 2022 at 7:42:28 AM UTC-7 Ray Varella wrote:
>>
>>>
>>> Hub is sold. 
>>> Thank you 
>>> Ray 
>>> On Sunday, October 16, 2022 at 6:47:39 AM UTC-7 Ray Varella wrote:
>>>
>>>>
>>>> Pm sent. 
>>>> On Sunday, October 16, 2022 at 6:00:52 AM UTC-7 Bill Lindsay wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> Skewers or not, I’ll go ahead and take them. I might convert that rear 
>>>>> to an even narrower OLD. And I my convert both hubs to bolt on :)
>>>>>
>>>>> Please do me a favor and DM me. I’m using my phone and it’s just 
>>>>> allowing me to reply to the whole rbw group. 
>>>>>
>>>>> BL in EC 
>>>>>
>>>>> On Sun, Oct 16, 2022 at 2:10 PM William Lindsay  
>>>>> wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>> Are the Suntour QR skewers involved in this offer?  
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Bill Lindsay 
>>>>>> El Cerrito Ca 
>>>>>>
>>>>>> On Sat, Oct 15, 2022 at 9:10 PM Ray Varella  
>>>>>> wrote:
>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Shifters are sold, hub is still available. 
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Before anyone squanders their discretionary income on bike parts…$25 
>>>>>>> invested in Apple in 2000 would be worth roughly $8,000
>>>>>>> I don’t know where or when I acquired this hub, if anyone buys it 
>>>>>>> I’ll include a rear XC-Pro grease guard hub in never built condition 
>>>>>>> BUT, 
>>>>>>> the hub had its axle chopped with a hacksaw, it’s about 130mm. It’s a 
>>>>>>> freewheel hub
>>>>>>> On Saturday, October 15, 2022 at 11:09:49 AM UTC-7 Ryan wrote:
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> I'm not criticizing the $50 price for the Suntour XC9000 hub, but I 
>>>>>>>> remember buying one from Riv in the early 2000's for...$20-25 USD 
>>>>>>>> which was 
>>>>>>>> a flat-out bargain. $50 is still more than reasonable for this 
>>>>>>>> classic. It 
>>>>>>>> is a beautiful smooth-running  hub; so nice I had a local wheel 
>>>>>>>> builder 
>>>>>>>> friend lace it to grey-anodized RM-17 rims with an older 105 rear 
>>>>>>>> bought 
>>>>>>>> from Sheldon Brown at Harris Cyclery for my 1993 X0-1
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> On Saturday, October 15, 2022 at 12:54:27 PM UTC-5 Ray Varella 
>>>>>>>> wrote:
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> Up for sale is a lightly used pair of Simplex Retrofriction 
>>>>>>>>> shifters. Clean and very nice 
>>>>>>>>> $55 + shipping. 
>>>>>>>>> Suntour XC 9000 front hub. 
>>>>>>>>> 32 hole, NOS, never laced. 
>>>>>>>>> Very nice sealed bearing hub $50 + shipping. 
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> Email rayvarella007 at gmail dot com 
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> Local pickup in Vallejo CA is also an option. 
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>>> Thank you 
>>>>>>>>> Ray
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> -- 
>>>>>>> You received this message because you are subscribed to a topic in 
>>>>>>> the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group.
>>>>>>> To unsubscribe from this topic, visit 
>>>>>>> https://groups.google.com/d/topic/rbw-owners-bunch/u8H7i26TOgI/unsubscribe
>>>>>>> .
>>>>>>> To unsubscribe from this group and all its topics, send an email to 
>>>>>>> rbw-owners-bun...@googlegroups.com.
>>>>>>> To view this discussion on the web visit 
>>>>>>> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/rbw-owners-bunch/c773c05c-fc9b-44f6-9890-2fdb33c9fa91n%40googlegroups.com
>>>>>>>  
>>>>>>> <https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/rbw-owners-bunch/c773c05c-fc9b-44f6-9890-2fdb33c9fa91n%40googlegroups.com?utm_medium=email&utm_source=footer>
>>>>>>> .
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>

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[RBW] Re: For sale cheap, fenders plus a Riv cap

[Ray Varella]

Fenders are still available 

Thank you 
Ray 

On Sunday, October 16, 2022 at 9:32:39 AM UTC-7 Ray Varella wrote:

> Hat is sold
>
> On Sunday, October 16, 2022 at 8:30:58 AM UTC-7 Ray Varella wrote:
>
>> [image: D6D317CA-068E-4000-ADEE-BDF63BE70A51.jpeg]
>>
>> On Sunday, October 16, 2022 at 8:28:48 AM UTC-7 Ray Varella wrote:
>>
>>> [image: 088E3D1A-4D6F-4F48-96AB-2FEF790D59C6.jpeg]Sorry for multiple 
>>> postings but I’m going through a lot of items besides bike stuff. 
>>>
>>> I have two sets of Planet Bike clip-on fenders, one is 50mm wide, the 
>>> other is 70mm wide
>>> Plus a set of never mounted SKS Cromo plast fenders. These are 50mm 
>>> wide. 
>>> The rear has a twist in it from sitting on a shelf for years. I know a 
>>> heat gun can be used to warm up the plastic and straighten it because I’ve 
>>> done it before. Please be advised. 
>>> There is a second set of these fenders that have been decommissioned, 
>>> the rear had a section break of but all the hardware and stays are fine. 
>>>
>>> $25 for the fender group if you pick it up in Vallejo. 
>>> Due to the size of box required for shipping, I doubt it’s worth the 
>>> expense but you can decide. 
>>> Rivendell cap, orange. This has not been used. I may have tried it on 
>>> years ago. 
>>> It’s a little dusty from sitting on a shelf. $35 shipped
>>> Email rayvarella007 at gmail dot com 
>>> Thank you,
>>> Ray 
>>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: For Sale Shiny Rack

[Ray Varella]

Rack is sold

Thank you and thank you Jared


Ray
On Saturday, October 15, 2022 at 11:49:21 AM UTC-7 Jared Wilson wrote:

> $160/shipped is a great deal for this rack, we have (2) in use and love 
> them.
>
> Best of luck with the sale, Ray!
>
> Jared
>
> On Saturday, October 15, 2022 at 10:48:39 AM UTC-7 Ray Varella wrote:
>
>> Giving this a bump. 
>> These are currently $178 from Rivendell and as mentioned in a recent 
>> email, will increase in price with the next shipment 
>>
>> Ray
>>
>> On Monday, October 10, 2022 at 7:16:50 PM UTC-7 Ray Varella wrote:
>>
>>> Hey Doug,
>>> I’ve used P clamps in the past to mount lights on racks that didn’t have 
>>> a mounting tab. 
>>> The P goes around the tubing and the studs or screw go through the hole 
>>> and the nut secures it in place. 
>>> Hardware stores with those drawers full of miscellaneous specialty items 
>>> is where I’ve always found P clamps. 
>>>
>>> Thank you 
>>> Ray 
>>>
>>> On Monday, October 10, 2022 at 5:07:56 AM UTC-7 Doug H. wrote:
>>>
>>>> Ray,
>>>> This is a good deal and I would buy it if I could figure out a way I 
>>>> could mount my rear Topline B&M dynamo taillight. Any ideas?
>>>> Doug
>>>>
>>>> On Sunday, October 9, 2022 at 2:48:38 PM UTC-4 Ray Varella wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> Offered is a Rivendell Shiny Rack 
>>>>> As new, never used. All mounting hardware in original condition. 
>>>>> $150 for local pickup 
>>>>> $160 shipped
>>>>>
>>>>> Email rayvarella007 at gmail dot com 
>>>>>
>>>>> Thank you 
>>>>> Ray
>>>>>
>>>>

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[RBW] Re: For sale, Suntour Superbe brakes

[Ray Varella]

Thanks Joe,
I really agonized over parting with them but I have a set on my road bike 
and these have sat unused for about 20 years. 

Ray
On Sunday, October 16, 2022 at 4:03:56 PM UTC-7 Joe Bernard wrote:

> That's good to hear, Ray. Somebody got some sweet Suntour swag. 
>
> On Sunday, October 16, 2022 at 3:59:17 PM UTC-7 Ray Varella wrote:
>
>> The brakes are sold. 
>>
>> Thank you 
>> Ray
>>
>> On Sunday, October 16, 2022 at 9:08:36 AM UTC-7 Patch T wrote:
>>
>>> FWIW, these clear Rene Herse Naches Pass 26 x 1.8 (41mm actual) on my 
>>> 1992 Bstone XO-1.
>>> They're beautiful. Braking is good. No issues with centering.
>>>
>>> Patch in NYC
>>>
>>> On Sunday, October 16, 2022 at 10:58:52 AM UTC-4 Joe Bernard wrote:
>>>
>>>> They're light and beautiful vintage Suntour brakes for people who know 
>>>> what that is and want them. It's 2022 and there aren't a ton of these in 
>>>> this condition around anymore. 
>>>>
>>>> On Sunday, October 16, 2022 at 7:48:03 AM UTC-7 Ray Varella wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> And yes, I know the adjuster nut is not in the right place, it’s there 
>>>>> to keep all the parts together. 
>>>>>
>>>>> On Sunday, October 16, 2022 at 7:46:36 AM UTC-7 Ray Varella wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>> [image: 03D4B414-DF10-4CAE-B9CE-9D6168A94ABA.jpeg]Here’s a pic of 
>>>>>> the brakes. 
>>>>>> I have a set of these on a bike and they clear the Rene Herse 38s 
>>>>>> with the pads at the bottom of the slots. 
>>>>>> Not all frames will have the same clearances. 
>>>>>> In over 30 years of using this model of brake I have never had any 
>>>>>> issues with them staying centered. 
>>>>>> They do require more hand strength than modern dual pivots but that 
>>>>>> hasn’t been a problem for me yet. 
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Thank you 
>>>>>> Ray
>>>>>>
>>>>>> On Saturday, October 15, 2022 at 3:46:34 PM UTC-7 Garth wrote:
>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Dissing on someone's for sale posting is just not cooland it 
>>>>>>> wasn't even for the right brake. doubly shmubly
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> On Saturday, October 15, 2022 at 4:10:13 PM UTC-4 pi wrote:
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> If these are the superbe pro sidepull calipers they are junk. I had 
>>>>>>>> a pair and they could never stay centered.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>

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[RBW] Re: For sale, Suntour Superbe brakes

[Ray Varella]

The brakes are sold. 

Thank you 
Ray

On Sunday, October 16, 2022 at 9:08:36 AM UTC-7 Patch T wrote:

> FWIW, these clear Rene Herse Naches Pass 26 x 1.8 (41mm actual) on my 1992 
> Bstone XO-1.
> They're beautiful. Braking is good. No issues with centering.
>
> Patch in NYC
>
> On Sunday, October 16, 2022 at 10:58:52 AM UTC-4 Joe Bernard wrote:
>
>> They're light and beautiful vintage Suntour brakes for people who know 
>> what that is and want them. It's 2022 and there aren't a ton of these in 
>> this condition around anymore. 
>>
>> On Sunday, October 16, 2022 at 7:48:03 AM UTC-7 Ray Varella wrote:
>>
>>> And yes, I know the adjuster nut is not in the right place, it’s there 
>>> to keep all the parts together. 
>>>
>>> On Sunday, October 16, 2022 at 7:46:36 AM UTC-7 Ray Varella wrote:
>>>
>>>> [image: 03D4B414-DF10-4CAE-B9CE-9D6168A94ABA.jpeg]Here’s a pic of the 
>>>> brakes. 
>>>> I have a set of these on a bike and they clear the Rene Herse 38s with 
>>>> the pads at the bottom of the slots. 
>>>> Not all frames will have the same clearances. 
>>>> In over 30 years of using this model of brake I have never had any 
>>>> issues with them staying centered. 
>>>> They do require more hand strength than modern dual pivots but that 
>>>> hasn’t been a problem for me yet. 
>>>>
>>>> Thank you 
>>>> Ray
>>>>
>>>> On Saturday, October 15, 2022 at 3:46:34 PM UTC-7 Garth wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> Dissing on someone's for sale posting is just not cooland it 
>>>>> wasn't even for the right brake. doubly shmubly
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> On Saturday, October 15, 2022 at 4:10:13 PM UTC-4 pi wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>> If these are the superbe pro sidepull calipers they are junk. I had a 
>>>>>> pair and they could never stay centered.
>>>>>
>>>>>

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[RBW] Re: For sale cheap, fenders plus a Riv cap

[Ray Varella]

Hat is sold

On Sunday, October 16, 2022 at 8:30:58 AM UTC-7 Ray Varella wrote:

> [image: D6D317CA-068E-4000-ADEE-BDF63BE70A51.jpeg]
>
> On Sunday, October 16, 2022 at 8:28:48 AM UTC-7 Ray Varella wrote:
>
>> [image: 088E3D1A-4D6F-4F48-96AB-2FEF790D59C6.jpeg]Sorry for multiple 
>> postings but I’m going through a lot of items besides bike stuff. 
>>
>> I have two sets of Planet Bike clip-on fenders, one is 50mm wide, the 
>> other is 70mm wide
>> Plus a set of never mounted SKS Cromo plast fenders. These are 50mm wide. 
>> The rear has a twist in it from sitting on a shelf for years. I know a 
>> heat gun can be used to warm up the plastic and straighten it because I’ve 
>> done it before. Please be advised. 
>> There is a second set of these fenders that have been decommissioned, the 
>> rear had a section break of but all the hardware and stays are fine. 
>>
>> $25 for the fender group if you pick it up in Vallejo. 
>> Due to the size of box required for shipping, I doubt it’s worth the 
>> expense but you can decide. 
>> Rivendell cap, orange. This has not been used. I may have tried it on 
>> years ago. 
>> It’s a little dusty from sitting on a shelf. $35 shipped
>> Email rayvarella007 at gmail dot com 
>> Thank you,
>> Ray 
>>
>

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Re: [RBW] Re: For sale Simplex Retrofriction shifters + Suntour hub

[Ray Varella]

Yes but the price has increased significantly. 
On Sunday, October 16, 2022 at 7:47:00 AM UTC-7 reynoldslugs wrote:

> Is the Apple stock still available?
>
> PM sent
>
> Max in Santa Rosa
>
>
>
> On Sunday, October 16, 2022 at 7:42:28 AM UTC-7 Ray Varella wrote:
>
>>
>> Hub is sold. 
>> Thank you 
>> Ray 
>> On Sunday, October 16, 2022 at 6:47:39 AM UTC-7 Ray Varella wrote:
>>
>>>
>>> Pm sent. 
>>> On Sunday, October 16, 2022 at 6:00:52 AM UTC-7 Bill Lindsay wrote:
>>>
>>>> Skewers or not, I’ll go ahead and take them. I might convert that rear 
>>>> to an even narrower OLD. And I my convert both hubs to bolt on :)
>>>>
>>>> Please do me a favor and DM me. I’m using my phone and it’s just 
>>>> allowing me to reply to the whole rbw group. 
>>>>
>>>> BL in EC 
>>>>
>>>> On Sun, Oct 16, 2022 at 2:10 PM William Lindsay  
>>>> wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> Are the Suntour QR skewers involved in this offer?  
>>>>>
>>>>> Bill Lindsay 
>>>>> El Cerrito Ca 
>>>>>
>>>>> On Sat, Oct 15, 2022 at 9:10 PM Ray Varella  
>>>>> wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>> Shifters are sold, hub is still available. 
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Before anyone squanders their discretionary income on bike parts…$25 
>>>>>> invested in Apple in 2000 would be worth roughly $8,000
>>>>>> I don’t know where or when I acquired this hub, if anyone buys it 
>>>>>> I’ll include a rear XC-Pro grease guard hub in never built condition 
>>>>>> BUT, 
>>>>>> the hub had its axle chopped with a hacksaw, it’s about 130mm. It’s a 
>>>>>> freewheel hub
>>>>>> On Saturday, October 15, 2022 at 11:09:49 AM UTC-7 Ryan wrote:
>>>>>>
>>>>>>> I'm not criticizing the $50 price for the Suntour XC9000 hub, but I 
>>>>>>> remember buying one from Riv in the early 2000's for...$20-25 USD which 
>>>>>>> was 
>>>>>>> a flat-out bargain. $50 is still more than reasonable for this classic. 
>>>>>>> It 
>>>>>>> is a beautiful smooth-running  hub; so nice I had a local wheel builder 
>>>>>>> friend lace it to grey-anodized RM-17 rims with an older 105 rear 
>>>>>>> bought 
>>>>>>> from Sheldon Brown at Harris Cyclery for my 1993 X0-1
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> On Saturday, October 15, 2022 at 12:54:27 PM UTC-5 Ray Varella wrote:
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> Up for sale is a lightly used pair of Simplex Retrofriction 
>>>>>>>> shifters. Clean and very nice 
>>>>>>>> $55 + shipping. 
>>>>>>>> Suntour XC 9000 front hub. 
>>>>>>>> 32 hole, NOS, never laced. 
>>>>>>>> Very nice sealed bearing hub $50 + shipping. 
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> Email rayvarella007 at gmail dot com 
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> Local pickup in Vallejo CA is also an option. 
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> Thank you 
>>>>>>>> Ray
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> -- 
>>>>>> You received this message because you are subscribed to a topic in 
>>>>>> the Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group.
>>>>>> To unsubscribe from this topic, visit 
>>>>>> https://groups.google.com/d/topic/rbw-owners-bunch/u8H7i26TOgI/unsubscribe
>>>>>> .
>>>>>> To unsubscribe from this group and all its topics, send an email to 
>>>>>> rbw-owners-bun...@googlegroups.com.
>>>>>> To view this discussion on the web visit 
>>>>>> https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/rbw-owners-bunch/c773c05c-fc9b-44f6-9890-2fdb33c9fa91n%40googlegroups.com
>>>>>>  
>>>>>> <https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/rbw-owners-bunch/c773c05c-fc9b-44f6-9890-2fdb33c9fa91n%40googlegroups.com?utm_medium=email&utm_source=footer>
>>>>>> .
>>>>>>
>>>>>

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[RBW] Re: For sale, Suntour Superbe brakes

[Ray Varella]

And yes, I know the adjuster nut is not in the right place, it’s there to 
keep all the parts together. 

On Sunday, October 16, 2022 at 7:46:36 AM UTC-7 Ray Varella wrote:

> [image: 03D4B414-DF10-4CAE-B9CE-9D6168A94ABA.jpeg]Here’s a pic of the 
> brakes. 
> I have a set of these on a bike and they clear the Rene Herse 38s with the 
> pads at the bottom of the slots. 
> Not all frames will have the same clearances. 
> In over 30 years of using this model of brake I have never had any issues 
> with them staying centered. 
> They do require more hand strength than modern dual pivots but that hasn’t 
> been a problem for me yet. 
>
> Thank you 
> Ray
>
> On Saturday, October 15, 2022 at 3:46:34 PM UTC-7 Garth wrote:
>
>> Dissing on someone's for sale posting is just not cooland it wasn't 
>> even for the right brake. doubly shmubly
>>
>>
>> On Saturday, October 15, 2022 at 4:10:13 PM UTC-4 pi wrote:
>>
>>> If these are the superbe pro sidepull calipers they are junk. I had a 
>>> pair and they could never stay centered.
>>
>>

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Re: [RBW] Re: For sale Simplex Retrofriction shifters + Suntour hub

[Ray Varella]

Hub is sold. 
Thank you 
Ray 
On Sunday, October 16, 2022 at 6:47:39 AM UTC-7 Ray Varella wrote:

>
> Pm sent. 
> On Sunday, October 16, 2022 at 6:00:52 AM UTC-7 Bill Lindsay wrote:
>
>> Skewers or not, I’ll go ahead and take them. I might convert that rear to 
>> an even narrower OLD. And I my convert both hubs to bolt on :)
>>
>> Please do me a favor and DM me. I’m using my phone and it’s just allowing 
>> me to reply to the whole rbw group. 
>>
>> BL in EC 
>>
>> On Sun, Oct 16, 2022 at 2:10 PM William Lindsay  
>> wrote:
>>
>>> Are the Suntour QR skewers involved in this offer?  
>>>
>>> Bill Lindsay 
>>> El Cerrito Ca 
>>>
>>> On Sat, Oct 15, 2022 at 9:10 PM Ray Varella  wrote:
>>>
>>>> Shifters are sold, hub is still available. 
>>>>
>>>> Before anyone squanders their discretionary income on bike parts…$25 
>>>> invested in Apple in 2000 would be worth roughly $8,000
>>>> I don’t know where or when I acquired this hub, if anyone buys it I’ll 
>>>> include a rear XC-Pro grease guard hub in never built condition BUT, the 
>>>> hub had its axle chopped with a hacksaw, it’s about 130mm. It’s a 
>>>> freewheel 
>>>> hub
>>>> On Saturday, October 15, 2022 at 11:09:49 AM UTC-7 Ryan wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> I'm not criticizing the $50 price for the Suntour XC9000 hub, but I 
>>>>> remember buying one from Riv in the early 2000's for...$20-25 USD which 
>>>>> was 
>>>>> a flat-out bargain. $50 is still more than reasonable for this classic. 
>>>>> It 
>>>>> is a beautiful smooth-running  hub; so nice I had a local wheel builder 
>>>>> friend lace it to grey-anodized RM-17 rims with an older 105 rear bought 
>>>>> from Sheldon Brown at Harris Cyclery for my 1993 X0-1
>>>>>
>>>>> On Saturday, October 15, 2022 at 12:54:27 PM UTC-5 Ray Varella wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>> Up for sale is a lightly used pair of Simplex Retrofriction shifters. 
>>>>>> Clean and very nice 
>>>>>> $55 + shipping. 
>>>>>> Suntour XC 9000 front hub. 
>>>>>> 32 hole, NOS, never laced. 
>>>>>> Very nice sealed bearing hub $50 + shipping. 
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Email rayvarella007 at gmail dot com 
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Local pickup in Vallejo CA is also an option. 
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Thank you 
>>>>>> Ray
>>>>>>
>>>>> -- 
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>>>> Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group.
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>>>> https://groups.google.com/d/topic/rbw-owners-bunch/u8H7i26TOgI/unsubscribe
>>>> .
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>>>>  
>>>> <https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/rbw-owners-bunch/c773c05c-fc9b-44f6-9890-2fdb33c9fa91n%40googlegroups.com?utm_medium=email&utm_source=footer>
>>>> .
>>>>
>>>

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Re: [RBW] Re: For sale Simplex Retrofriction shifters + Suntour hub

[Ray Varella]

Pm sent. 
On Sunday, October 16, 2022 at 6:00:52 AM UTC-7 Bill Lindsay wrote:

> Skewers or not, I’ll go ahead and take them. I might convert that rear to 
> an even narrower OLD. And I my convert both hubs to bolt on :)
>
> Please do me a favor and DM me. I’m using my phone and it’s just allowing 
> me to reply to the whole rbw group. 
>
> BL in EC 
>
> On Sun, Oct 16, 2022 at 2:10 PM William Lindsay  wrote:
>
>> Are the Suntour QR skewers involved in this offer?  
>>
>> Bill Lindsay 
>> El Cerrito Ca 
>>
>> On Sat, Oct 15, 2022 at 9:10 PM Ray Varella  wrote:
>>
>>> Shifters are sold, hub is still available. 
>>>
>>> Before anyone squanders their discretionary income on bike parts…$25 
>>> invested in Apple in 2000 would be worth roughly $8,000
>>> I don’t know where or when I acquired this hub, if anyone buys it I’ll 
>>> include a rear XC-Pro grease guard hub in never built condition BUT, the 
>>> hub had its axle chopped with a hacksaw, it’s about 130mm. It’s a freewheel 
>>> hub
>>> On Saturday, October 15, 2022 at 11:09:49 AM UTC-7 Ryan wrote:
>>>
>>>> I'm not criticizing the $50 price for the Suntour XC9000 hub, but I 
>>>> remember buying one from Riv in the early 2000's for...$20-25 USD which 
>>>> was 
>>>> a flat-out bargain. $50 is still more than reasonable for this classic. It 
>>>> is a beautiful smooth-running  hub; so nice I had a local wheel builder 
>>>> friend lace it to grey-anodized RM-17 rims with an older 105 rear bought 
>>>> from Sheldon Brown at Harris Cyclery for my 1993 X0-1
>>>>
>>>> On Saturday, October 15, 2022 at 12:54:27 PM UTC-5 Ray Varella wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> Up for sale is a lightly used pair of Simplex Retrofriction shifters. 
>>>>> Clean and very nice 
>>>>> $55 + shipping. 
>>>>> Suntour XC 9000 front hub. 
>>>>> 32 hole, NOS, never laced. 
>>>>> Very nice sealed bearing hub $50 + shipping. 
>>>>>
>>>>> Email rayvarella007 at gmail dot com 
>>>>>
>>>>> Local pickup in Vallejo CA is also an option. 
>>>>>
>>>>> Thank you 
>>>>> Ray
>>>>>
>>>> -- 
>>> You received this message because you are subscribed to a topic in the 
>>> Google Groups "RBW Owners Bunch" group.
>>> To unsubscribe from this topic, visit 
>>> https://groups.google.com/d/topic/rbw-owners-bunch/u8H7i26TOgI/unsubscribe
>>> .
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>>>  
>>> <https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/rbw-owners-bunch/c773c05c-fc9b-44f6-9890-2fdb33c9fa91n%40googlegroups.com?utm_medium=email&utm_source=footer>
>>> .
>>>
>>

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Re: [RBW] Tire shipping advice

[Ray Varella]

To fold a wire bead tire without damaging the bead is what we used to do 
before folding tires were ubiquitous. 
With the tire horizontal in front of you, reach under the the part closest 
to you (we’ll call that 6:00 o’clock), slide your hand all the way across 
(let’s call that 12:00 o’clock), reach up over the top and as you pull that 
portion of the tire towards you and you get about 2/3rds of the way across, 
flip the other two ears over and you should quickly end up with three 
loops. 
Does that make sense?
I don’t think I have any wire bead tires here to make a video but I’ll 
check. 

It’s a very easy method and because it’s forming something like a figure 8 
with an additional loop, it doesn’t crease or kink the bead. 

Ray
On Saturday, October 15, 2022 at 6:20:37 PM UTC-7 ezre...@gmail.com wrote:

> Eric, when you say folded, is that over in half once? I shipped something 
> out yesterday, and the post office rounded up one dimension from 12.1 
> inches to 13, and that made the price jump from $24 to 41, so every inch is 
> counting these days!
>
> On Saturday, October 15, 2022 at 6:54:24 PM UTC-4 campyo...@me.com wrote:
>
>> I e shooed folded beaded tires many times. It doesn’t hurt them. 
>>
>> –Eric N
>>
>>
>> On Oct 15, 2022, at 3:50 PM, Garth  wrote:
>>
>> Yeah, basically use a box cutter to literally make a custom box no 
>> bigger than the tires. You can use some hot glue for integrity if you're 
>> worried, but good tape should suffice. 
>>
>>
>> On Saturday, October 15, 2022 at 5:35:07 PM UTC-4 bjmi...@gmail.com 
>> wrote:
>>
>>> You can get creative with how you cut cardboard boxes into different 
>>> shapes. If you find one big enough to lay the tires down in, you can use a 
>>> razor/box opener to cut down the corners of the box and then trim the flaps 
>>> to the size you need. It's really hard to explain and it's something I 
>>> messed up a few times before I could do it well (I work in a golf shop that 
>>> ships oddly shaped things now and then), but it's do-able. 
>>>
>>> Otherwise, you could try to find unwanted TV boxes or cardboard boxes 
>>> that people ship art in? 
>>>
>>> Good luck,
>>> Ben 
>>>
>>> On Sat, Oct 15, 2022 at 4:20 PM Ezri Rose  wrote:
>>>
>>>> Does anyone have experience shipping wire bead tyres? I have some 26" 
>>>> studded Schwalbe Marathon winter tyres I would like to sell. But I have no 
>>>> idea how to ship them. It's probably not good for them to fold them, 
>>>> right? 
>>>> Selling them locally isn't an option, as I've moved from Colorado to 
>>>> Florida 😹
>>>> Ezri,
>>>> Merritt Island, FL
>>>>
>>>> -- 
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>>>>  
>>>> <https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/rbw-owners-bunch/5fa29986-8913-4101-a850-dbb9efc8972dn%40googlegroups.com?utm_medium=email&utm_source=footer>
>>>> .
>>>>
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>> .
>>
>>

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[RBW] For sale, Suntour Superbe brakes

[Ray Varella]

Up for sale is a very clean pair of Suntour Superbe brake calipers. 
Front and rear, nutted 47-57mm reach with Mathhauser pads. 
$85 plus shipping. 
Email rayvarella007 at gmail dot com 

Thank you 
Ray

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[RBW] Re: For sale Simplex Retrofriction shifters + Suntour hub

[Ray Varella]

Shifters are sold, hub is still available. 

Before anyone squanders their discretionary income on bike parts…$25 
invested in Apple in 2000 would be worth roughly $8,000
I don’t know where or when I acquired this hub, if anyone buys it I’ll 
include a rear XC-Pro grease guard hub in never built condition BUT, the 
hub had its axle chopped with a hacksaw, it’s about 130mm. It’s a freewheel 
hub
On Saturday, October 15, 2022 at 11:09:49 AM UTC-7 Ryan wrote:

> I'm not criticizing the $50 price for the Suntour XC9000 hub, but I 
> remember buying one from Riv in the early 2000's for...$20-25 USD which was 
> a flat-out bargain. $50 is still more than reasonable for this classic. It 
> is a beautiful smooth-running  hub; so nice I had a local wheel builder 
> friend lace it to grey-anodized RM-17 rims with an older 105 rear bought 
> from Sheldon Brown at Harris Cyclery for my 1993 X0-1
>
> On Saturday, October 15, 2022 at 12:54:27 PM UTC-5 Ray Varella wrote:
>
>> Up for sale is a lightly used pair of Simplex Retrofriction shifters. 
>> Clean and very nice 
>> $55 + shipping. 
>> Suntour XC 9000 front hub. 
>> 32 hole, NOS, never laced. 
>> Very nice sealed bearing hub $50 + shipping. 
>>
>> Email rayvarella007 at gmail dot com 
>>
>> Local pickup in Vallejo CA is also an option. 
>>
>> Thank you 
>> Ray
>>
>

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[RBW] For sale Simplex Retrofriction shifters + Suntour hub

[Ray Varella]

Up for sale is a lightly used pair of Simplex Retrofriction shifters. Clean 
and very nice 
$55 + shipping. 
Suntour XC 9000 front hub. 
32 hole, NOS, never laced. 
Very nice sealed bearing hub $50 + shipping. 

Email rayvarella007 at gmail dot com 

Local pickup in Vallejo CA is also an option. 

Thank you 
Ray

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[RBW] Re: For Sale Shiny Rack

[Ray Varella]

Giving this a bump. 
These are currently $178 from Rivendell and as mentioned in a recent email, 
will increase in price with the next shipment 

Ray

On Monday, October 10, 2022 at 7:16:50 PM UTC-7 Ray Varella wrote:

> Hey Doug,
> I’ve used P clamps in the past to mount lights on racks that didn’t have a 
> mounting tab. 
> The P goes around the tubing and the studs or screw go through the hole 
> and the nut secures it in place. 
> Hardware stores with those drawers full of miscellaneous specialty items 
> is where I’ve always found P clamps. 
>
> Thank you 
> Ray 
>
> On Monday, October 10, 2022 at 5:07:56 AM UTC-7 Doug H. wrote:
>
>> Ray,
>> This is a good deal and I would buy it if I could figure out a way I 
>> could mount my rear Topline B&M dynamo taillight. Any ideas?
>> Doug
>>
>> On Sunday, October 9, 2022 at 2:48:38 PM UTC-4 Ray Varella wrote:
>>
>>> Offered is a Rivendell Shiny Rack 
>>> As new, never used. All mounting hardware in original condition. 
>>> $150 for local pickup 
>>> $160 shipped
>>>
>>> Email rayvarella007 at gmail dot com 
>>>
>>> Thank you 
>>> Ray
>>>
>>

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[RBW] Re: Seeking Advice - Shimano 9 Speed Downtube Shifters

[Mr. Ray]

Keith, the Dura Ace bar end shifters bolt right on and look identical BUT 
the rear shifter pods are different.  The rear bar end shifters cable track 
begins further away from the shifter cable vs a down tube shifter pod.  
What this means is after the 5th or 6th gear, the shifter cable is no 
longer guided by the groove.  If one is handy with a Dremel or file, you 
could extend the groove closer to where the shifter cable enters the pod. 


On Wednesday, October 12, 2022 at 2:11:59 AM UTC-4 iamkeith wrote:

>
> I was first going to say  what mr ray did:  I'm happy with the quality of 
> the microshift shifters that I have.  They're thumbie mounts, but the lever 
> shape really seems to be intended as bar ends, so they probably work ok in 
> downtube mode too.  Easiiest thing though would just be to get dura ace bar 
> end shifter from Rivendell.  They're in stock and bolt right on as downtube 
> shifters.
> On Tuesday, October 11, 2022 at 9:39:21 PM UTC-6 cz...@sonic.net wrote:
>
>> Hi Keith -
>>
>> I've ruled out 10 and 11 speed as I want to be able to swap wheels 
>> between bikes and have several bikes with 9 speed setups.
>>
>> And I don't care if I have a friction option. Not sure how that impacts 
>> things unless I was interested in brifters (which I am not).
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>>
>> Corwin
>> On Tuesday, October 11, 2022 at 6:18:13 PM UTC-7 iamkeith wrote:
>>
>>> Just thinking out loud and clarifying before I suggest something wrong:
>>>
>>> If you use 10 speed shifters and want indexing, you'd have to use the 
>>> alternate cable attachment hack, right?
>>>
>>> 9 speed era and later, the dura ace cable pull was the same as other 
>>> shimano products, so you don't necessarily "need" dura ace, right?
>>>
>>> You don't care if you have a friction option, right?
>>>
>>> You've ruled out 10 or 11 speed altogether?  I understand if you have.  
>>> I kerp doing the same thing but, honestly, it's often easier and cheaper to 
>>> find good 10 and 11 speed stuff these days.  It's just not as pretty.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> On Tuesday, October 11, 2022 at 5:34:43 PM UTC-6 cz...@sonic.net wrote:
>>>
>>>> Greetings -
>>>>
>>>> About 18 months ago, my house was burglarized. Among the items stolen 
>>>> was my Rivendell custom. I am now trying to replace the custom. The frame 
>>>> is now at Joe Bell's waiting for paint.
>>>>
>>>> I have been trying to find Shimano 9 speed downtube shift levers for a 
>>>> while. I missed out on a couple huge batches offered on EBay. I have seen 
>>>> three options recently:
>>>>
>>>> 1) A set of Dura Ace 9 speed downtube levers mated to Paul thumbies on 
>>>> EBay for 150 GBP. This seems like a potential win. Buy the levers 
>>>> (possibly 
>>>> at something below the asking price), sell the Paul Thumbies and come out 
>>>> with a considerable savings.
>>>>
>>>> 2) There is a set of Dura Ace 9 speed downtube shifters in Albuquerque 
>>>> for sale at $160. The shop will only deliver locally. I am willing to pay 
>>>> someone local to the shop to facilitate delivery and send the shifters to 
>>>> me.
>>>>
>>>> 3) Use Dura Ace 7900 10 speed downtube shifters in place of the 7700 9 
>>>> speed. According to Sheldon (AASHTA), Dura Ace 10 speed will shift 9 speed 
>>>> fine.
>>>>
>>>> A few criteria of interest ... I already have a set of Shimano 9 speed 
>>>> bar ends slated for another bike. Not interested in putting them on the 
>>>> custom. I do indexed only, and I don't do brifters. I have several 
>>>> wheelsets with 9 speed cassettes and associated [rapid rise] derailers for 
>>>> the custom and on other bikes.
>>>>
>>>> I am concerned about the following: Will the Paul Thumbie/Shimano 
>>>> downtube lever combo have sufficient parts for install as downtube levers 
>>>> on the custom? Will the thumbie combo have sufficient parts to be able to 
>>>> sell to someone who wants Paul Thumbies? Will the 10 speed levers throw 
>>>> the 
>>>> chain off the smallest cog (given I am using rapid rise with a 9 speed 
>>>> cassette)?
>>>>
>>>> Which is the best option? The 10 speed downtube levers appear to be 
>>>> available for approximately $80 sans tax and shipping.
>>>>
>>>> Thanks in advance for your opinions, advice, etc.
>>>>
>>>> Regards,
>>>>
>>>> Corwin
>>>>
>>>

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[RBW] Re: Seeking Advice - Shimano 9 Speed Downtube Shifters

[Mr. Ray]

I was not able to locate 9 spd Shimano DS so I bought Microshift 9 spd DS 
instead.  Like you, I only require index shifting and having used them for 
over 3000 miles, the Microshift have worked very very well.  They are also 
cheaper than Dura Ace.

https://www.microshift.com/models/sl-d09/

   

On Tuesday, October 11, 2022 at 7:34:43 PM UTC-4 cz...@sonic.net wrote:

> Greetings -
>
> About 18 months ago, my house was burglarized. Among the items stolen was 
> my Rivendell custom. I am now trying to replace the custom. The frame is 
> now at Joe Bell's waiting for paint.
>
> I have been trying to find Shimano 9 speed downtube shift levers for a 
> while. I missed out on a couple huge batches offered on EBay. I have seen 
> three options recently:
>
> 1) A set of Dura Ace 9 speed downtube levers mated to Paul thumbies on 
> EBay for 150 GBP. This seems like a potential win. Buy the levers (possibly 
> at something below the asking price), sell the Paul Thumbies and come out 
> with a considerable savings.
>
> 2) There is a set of Dura Ace 9 speed downtube shifters in Albuquerque for 
> sale at $160. The shop will only deliver locally. I am willing to pay 
> someone local to the shop to facilitate delivery and send the shifters to 
> me.
>
> 3) Use Dura Ace 7900 10 speed downtube shifters in place of the 7700 9 
> speed. According to Sheldon (AASHTA), Dura Ace 10 speed will shift 9 speed 
> fine.
>
> A few criteria of interest ... I already have a set of Shimano 9 speed bar 
> ends slated for another bike. Not interested in putting them on the custom. 
> I do indexed only, and I don't do brifters. I have several wheelsets with 9 
> speed cassettes and associated [rapid rise] derailers for the custom and on 
> other bikes.
>
> I am concerned about the following: Will the Paul Thumbie/Shimano downtube 
> lever combo have sufficient parts for install as downtube levers on the 
> custom? Will the thumbie combo have sufficient parts to be able to sell to 
> someone who wants Paul Thumbies? Will the 10 speed levers throw the chain 
> off the smallest cog (given I am using rapid rise with a 9 speed cassette)?
>
> Which is the best option? The 10 speed downtube levers appear to be 
> available for approximately $80 sans tax and shipping.
>
> Thanks in advance for your opinions, advice, etc.
>
> Regards,
>
> Corwin
>

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[RBW] Re: For Sale Shiny Rack

[Ray Varella]

Hey Doug,
I’ve used P clamps in the past to mount lights on racks that didn’t have a 
mounting tab. 
The P goes around the tubing and the studs or screw go through the hole and 
the nut secures it in place. 
Hardware stores with those drawers full of miscellaneous specialty items is 
where I’ve always found P clamps. 

Thank you 
Ray 

On Monday, October 10, 2022 at 5:07:56 AM UTC-7 Doug H. wrote:

> Ray,
> This is a good deal and I would buy it if I could figure out a way I could 
> mount my rear Topline B&M dynamo taillight. Any ideas?
> Doug
>
> On Sunday, October 9, 2022 at 2:48:38 PM UTC-4 Ray Varella wrote:
>
>> Offered is a Rivendell Shiny Rack 
>> As new, never used. All mounting hardware in original condition. 
>> $150 for local pickup 
>> $160 shipped
>>
>> Email rayvarella007 at gmail dot com 
>>
>> Thank you 
>> Ray
>>
>

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[RBW] For Sale Shiny Rack

[Ray Varella]

Offered is a Rivendell Shiny Rack 
As new, never used. All mounting hardware in original condition. 
$150 for local pickup 
$160 shipped

Email rayvarella007 at gmail dot com 

Thank you 
Ray

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[RBW] Re: FS: Bridgestone 1992 XO-2 (cross-posted to iBob)

[Ray]

Geez guess that would be helpful info. Yes it is a 59 cm.

On Saturday, September 3, 2022 at 8:15:21 PM UTC-5 Joe Bernard wrote:

> Looks like a 59 but I don't see a size listed anywhere. 
>
> On Saturday, September 3, 2022 at 5:12:33 PM UTC-7 Ray wrote:
>
>> Hello again everyone,
>>
>> It's been a couple of years since the kind folks in this forum helped me 
>> pick out and build my ultimate townie/commuter. I have you to thank for 
>> many happy hours of riding and bike-tinkering. However, my life and 
>> priorities have changed a lot recently and I need to let this bike go 
>> somewhere it can be better appreciated.
>>
>> A couple things: the bike is at this point fully custom, but I carefully 
>> stored all of the original parts together and will include them all if you 
>> purchase the bike as seen. If you want to buy only the original, that works 
>> too. I will pass it on to you with the parts for you to build up yourself. 
>> The bike does have some cosmetic damage but no dents and never been crashed.
>>
>> Complete bike as it currently exists: $950
>> Only frame and all original parts: $350
>>
>> Would very much prefer local sale in Madison, WI and could meet you 
>> somewhere nearby if you are driving in from surrounding areas. Can set up 
>> shipping with my LBS if necessary but you will have to cover labor and 
>> shipping costs.
>>
>> Full album here: 
>> https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/13lLitAXkuLrrM2FxfIqow9MXnOCCXkDQ?usp=sharing
>>
>> Build Details:
>> -First of all, this is a 650b conversion. I used Box brakes to get the 
>> pad height and they work flawlessly. Frame will take 650bx48 no problem. 
>> I've had Switchback Hills on it in the past and they were great. Currently 
>> have a pair of very lightly used Panaracer Paselas in 42mm.
>> - Ahearne+Map Handlebar
>> - Paul's Love Levers
>> - Deore 9 speed rear der
>> - Microshift shifter
>> - SON Dynamo lights
>> - Velo Orange front rack
>> - Wheels: Custom built. Velocity Atlas rims to Deore rear hub. Front hub 
>> is actually a Son disc hub that I already had.
>> - Brooks B17 saddle
>> - Velo range security skewers on front and rear hubs and Bicycle Bolts 
>> <https://www.bicyclebolts.com> on the seatpost clamp (please remind me 
>> to give you the tools for these. I will definitely forget)
>>
>> *QUIRKS (PLEASE READ): *When I purchased the bike I could not get the 
>> seatpost to stop slipping. I tried everything. The bike came stock with a 
>> 26.2mm seatpost and so I tried other 26.2mm seatposts and these slipped 
>> too. Eventually, I was so frustrated that I bought one of these seatposts 
>> <https://velo-orange.com/collections/seatposts/products/dajia-one-bolt-post?variant=50647477895>
>>  
>> in 26.4mm from Velo orange and had my LBS ream the seat tube so that it 
>> fit. According to my mechanic this was very very slight. Like one turn with 
>> the tool. Works very well now.
>>
>

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[RBW] FS: Bridgestone 1992 XO-2 (cross-posted to iBob)

[Ray]

Hello again everyone,

It's been a couple of years since the kind folks in this forum helped me 
pick out and build my ultimate townie/commuter. I have you to thank for 
many happy hours of riding and bike-tinkering. However, my life and 
priorities have changed a lot recently and I need to let this bike go 
somewhere it can be better appreciated.

A couple things: the bike is at this point fully custom, but I carefully 
stored all of the original parts together and will include them all if you 
purchase the bike as seen. If you want to buy only the original, that works 
too. I will pass it on to you with the parts for you to build up yourself. 
The bike does have some cosmetic damage but no dents and never been crashed.

Complete bike as it currently exists: $950
Only frame and all original parts: $350

Would very much prefer local sale in Madison, WI and could meet you 
somewhere nearby if you are driving in from surrounding areas. Can set up 
shipping with my LBS if necessary but you will have to cover labor and 
shipping costs.

Full album here: 
https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/13lLitAXkuLrrM2FxfIqow9MXnOCCXkDQ?usp=sharing

Build Details:
-First of all, this is a 650b conversion. I used Box brakes to get the pad 
height and they work flawlessly. Frame will take 650bx48 no problem. I've 
had Switchback Hills on it in the past and they were great. Currently have 
a pair of very lightly used Panaracer Paselas in 42mm.
- Ahearne+Map Handlebar
- Paul's Love Levers
- Deore 9 speed rear der
- Microshift shifter
- SON Dynamo lights
- Velo Orange front rack
- Wheels: Custom built. Velocity Atlas rims to Deore rear hub. Front hub is 
actually a Son disc hub that I already had.
- Brooks B17 saddle
- Velo range security skewers on front and rear hubs and Bicycle Bolts 
 on the seatpost clamp (please remind me to 
give you the tools for these. I will definitely forget)

*QUIRKS (PLEASE READ): *When I purchased the bike I could not get the 
seatpost to stop slipping. I tried everything. The bike came stock with a 
26.2mm seatpost and so I tried other 26.2mm seatposts and these slipped 
too. Eventually, I was so frustrated that I bought one of these seatposts 

 
in 26.4mm from Velo orange and had my LBS ream the seat tube so that it 
fit. According to my mechanic this was very very slight. Like one turn with 
the tool. Works very well now.

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Re: [RBW] F.S: Busch & Muller handlebar bracket for head light

[Mr. Ray]

Removed from sale...

On Monday, August 8, 2022 at 6:12:28 PM UTC-4 peter...@gmail.com wrote:

> FYI: That's not a Busch & Müller mount. It's a Reise & Müller mount. It's 
> no longer made as the maximum diameter handlebar it will fit is 26.0mm, and 
> that size is no longer offered on most bikes as the manufacturers, in 
> their infinite wisdom, are all pushing huge handlebar diameters. They're 
> perhaps hoping that cyclists with those older, skinny handlebars will buy 
> new bikes with fat handlebars. The idea being that if they do, nobody will 
> laugh at them. Sigh...
>
> On Mon, Aug 8, 2022 at 5:21 PM Mr. Ray  wrote:
>
>> Used Busch & Muller Light Bracket for Handlebar Mounted Dynamo 
>> Headlight.  Brief description by Peter White Cycles:
>>
>> https://www.peterwhitecycles.com/light-mounts.php
>>
>> It's for sale at SJS Cycles in the UK:
>>
>>
>> https://www.sjscycles.co.uk/lighting-spares/busch-muller-light-bracket-for-handlebar-mounted-dynamo-headlight/?geoc=CA
>>
>> Asking $15 USD (net to me).  Shipping included (no tracking).
>>
>> [image: Busch and Muller.jpg]
>>
>>
>>
>> -- 
>> You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
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>>  
>> <https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/rbw-owners-bunch/942dc419-3fc9-4c13-ad2d-6aaf6f8e7ad8n%40googlegroups.com?utm_medium=email&utm_source=footer>
>> .
>>
>
>
> -- 
> Peter White
>

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