[RBW] Re: Installed Front Rack... PAIN IN THE REAR!
This thread really cheered me up. It's comforting to learn that my personal struggles with racks and fenders are typical. Thanks, ...Roy On Oct 14, 10:22 am, Steve Palincsar palin...@his.com wrote: On Fri, 2011-10-14 at 06:48 -0700, David Spranger wrote: Installed that same rack on my wife's Betty Foy without too much issue. However, I experienced the same type of frustrations as you when I installed a VO Randonneur rack on my Rambouillet. Looks great now, but it is never coming off again. I also installed this same rack on a VO frame for a friend. It was not as difficult, but not as easy as I would have expected being that it was designed with VO frames in mind. I think the welded on tang is just not the best way to do this. I have one on my Johnny Coast-built VO Randonneurhttp://www.flickr.com/photos/97916047@N00/sets/72157606169015639/show/http://www.flickr.com/photos/97916047@N00/2669029666/in/set-721576061... It took several hours to install, and I learned a lot about working with stainless steel I never knew. I had no idea ordinary hacksaws and drills would make no impression on the stainless steel other than to polish it, and it literally took over an hour to cut the tang and another hour to drill it. I also had to bend, and then re-bend, the tang. ... -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] Re: Computers? No computers?
I agree with kelly that if you like to explore and you live in a place like NJ where the roads are jumbled, planning a route beforehand and following it on your garmin is very agreable. You can do a lot more looking around and a lot less thinking about your direction, and the future turns you need to make to get back home. If you lay out a route beforehand and you know the distance and the vertical fett climbing, you can give your wife a good estimate of what time you'll get home. However, I think the garmin with the maps is even nicer. I find it's a kind of reinforcement learning for what roads are ok and what roads are genuinely lovely cycling roads. In NJ, the nicest cycling roads are off the beaten path and easily missed. Finding the nice roads makes riding more fun. ...Roy On Feb 15, 1:03 pm, Kelly Sleeper tkslee...@gmail.com wrote: I like having my garmin with a course file loaded.. 305. I don't need maps the black line showing where I started or a route in deviate from and get back to is wonderful. On tour I hate trying to keep it charged up. You can set it up as elevation and compass ignoring speed / distance which shows up when I plug into computer. Around town it doesn't leave the house. Sent from my iPhone On Feb 15, 2011, at 11:53 AM, cm chrispmur...@hotmail.com wrote: I am a sometimes-computer user. I dont really have an issue with not knowing the speed but not knowing the distance is tough for me. I usually go to mapmyride.com to get the distance. I am going to try to mount the computer to the seatpost but havent yet-- then I would have all the info after the ride but none of the distraction during the ride. Anyone tried this? Curious if wireless or cable would be the way to go. Could you use the back wheel? Cheers! cm -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group athttp://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] Re: 650b All Rounder
My experience is roughly the same as Tim's. While the chainstay and fork clearance looks to be more than enough for wide 650B tires, my stumbling block has been the canti brakes. My preliminary measurements indicated that none of the canti's I own has enough vertical adjustment to reach the 650B rim. Can anybody recommend a canti brake that has enough vertical adjustment so that it can reach the 650B rim using canti posts designed for 26 inch? At the moment, I have Avid Shortys on the bike which I don't love, so I'd be happy to switch to a canti that is 650B compatible Thanks, ...Roy BTW My All-Rounder is definitely 1-2mi/hr slower than my other roadbikes, (even if I run 1.25in tires) but sometimes that's what a ride calls for. On Feb 1, 1:08 am, Tim McNamara tim...@bitstream.net wrote: The older A/Rs were all built on 26 wheels, so changing to 650B would raise the BB by 12.5 mm +/- the difference in tire cross section. The only person to convert an A/R to 650B that I know of was Ron Lau. http://www.cyclofiend.com/cc/2005/cc006-ronlau0505.html http://www.freewebs.com/650b/ronsallrounder.htm He was very bullish about it and I corresponded with him about the possibility of trying it with my A/R, although I never got around to trying it. Ron said he had trouble keeping the 26 version over 12-15 mph but with 650B wheels it was much faster. With 26 x 1.25 Paselas I find my A/R is as fast as any of my other bikes and I really like how it handles, so I never made the switch. On Jan 31, 2011, at 11:12 PM, cyclotourist wrote: Hi Jon, the consensus I've heard is that Rivendell bottom brackets are pretty low to begin with, and dropping them further with 650b wheels can lead to a lot of pedal strikes. That said, if you're going to use Hetres and shorter the cranks to 165, shouldn't be to much of a problem. Don't A-Rs all have cantis though? That's your bigger headache. Have fun! On Mon, Jan 31, 2011 at 8:25 AM, Jon Flaxman jflax...@uaex.edu wrote: Just scored my third Rivendell - this one is an early All Rounder with SS couplers. I'm thinking about converting it to a 650b. Has anyone done this before? What were the results? Are there any pre-built 650b wheelsets for Clydes? -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] Re: FS: Rawland Sogn, Bike Friday FT: Tikit, Nitto stem
Is it a planned coincidence that you're teaching in France in a PBP year? On Dec 15, 9:25 pm, Esteban proto...@gmail.com wrote: haha -- I teach in France this summer, and when the coupled Riv Road custom came up with couplers, I couldn't pass up the idea of running around the French countryside this summer on a Riv. I also may be teaching in London in 2013, in time for the London-Edinburgh-London 1400K. The Tikit is awesome -- really, awesome. But I'd rather be on a big boy bike for brevets! On Dec 15, 6:18 pm, Seth Vidal skvi...@gmail.com wrote: On Wed, Dec 15, 2010 at 9:17 PM, Esteban proto...@gmail.com wrote: So... I'm putting my Rawland Sogn and BF Tikit for sale to help pay for a Rivendell. Wait - what riv are you buying now? Has your ebisu even come in, yet? -sv -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] Re: WTB--130mm bolt circle chainguard to cover a 42T ring
The Salsa Crossing Guard is very nice, much nicer. The price is crazy, but it's really nicer than, say, a sugino guard that i think velo orange was selling. On Dec 9, 1:54 pm, William tapebu...@gmail.com wrote: I have a road triple that I want to set up as a compact double. It's a Sugino-made, Specialized branded crankset, from the last 5 years or so. The bolt circle is 130/74 and the rings are 52/42/28. I want to use it as a compact double, Keven-style, by replacing the 52T ring with a chainguard. The Spot-Brand one would be nearly perfect: http://spotbrand.com/bikes/product-page/guards/ My only three gripes would be that I'd prefer silver, would prefer no graphics, and would prefer something less than $44 plus tax plus shipping. If anybody has a guard like that laying around, please let me know. Thanks! -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] Re: Need HELP! ^**%^(bolt sheared off)
Perhaps I've misunderstood, but simply buying a replacement for the long nut that the screw threads into is no big deal. Probably any bike shop can provide a replacement from the spare parts bin. Soembody like loosescrews or boltdepot also probably has the replacement. It seem to me that the bigger issue is the long bolt (attached to the brake caliper) that's now snapped off. Getting a replacement for that seems more challenging. However, This is not a total disaster since a tektro brake caliper is not a thousand dollar part nor evena hundred dollar part. ...Roy On Nov 20, 6:21 pm, erik jensen bicyclen...@gmail.com wrote: don't worry--same thing happened to my quickbeam, and all it took was a screw extractor and a well placed drill bit before that. fast fix, but high stress, for certain. erik -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] Re: The takeover is progressing
The best bike routes tend to be in places with few cars and few people. Cellular system optimization leaves these areas with coverage that is spotty at best. The current generation smartphone mapping apps are all relying on this network with spotty rural coverage to deliver the local maps. These systems may not ever provide reliable mapping for cyclists. Of course, complete map databases have been available for years both for PCs/laptops and also handheld GPSs. Does anybody know of an iphone or android app that uses a downloaded hi-res map? Nowadays, the martphones do have the memory to hold an entire national map. ...Roy On Nov 3, 11:04 pm, TJ Ramb tjs...@gmail.com wrote: Okay - call me Mr technobabble, I'll have a GPS thanks! Mainly for navigation of back country adventures, but I only used my computer for navigation anyway. I did learn along the way to be good at estimating how far I'd gone over a variety of terrain in a certain amount of time, so that it became decreasingly relevant. So many phones have gps now anyway - it's hardly leading edge, meaning bike computers are now archaic! -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] Re: Spring Fender Spacing Thingy
I've needed this spring thingy for my All-Rounder which has a big gap from the 26 inch wheels/tire to the cross-brace between the chain stays. However, I don't think I would want the fender to slide on the bolt. In that case, won't the head of the bolt always be close to the tire and block the the horizontal motion of the tire during removal. My impression is that the example in the picture allows the end of the bolt closest to the seat tube to slide when the horizontal motion of the wheel pushes the fender. However, an All-Rounder's cross-brace between the chain stays has a threaded hole for a fender bolt but the hole dead-ends in the cross-brace. I've wondered if anyone has drilled through the cross-brace to allow a fender bolt to slide through? If not, is there some other solution? Thanks, ...Roy On Jul 28, 9:40 pm, JoelMatthews joelmatth...@mac.com wrote: Here you go: Joe, thanks for the linked photo. That shows what I was missing in my scheme. The bolt is thinner than it would be allowing the fender to move back and forth over it. Brilliant! On Jul 28, 5:54 pm, Joe Bartoe jbar...@hotmail.com wrote: Here you go: http://velo-orange.blogspot.com/2009/04/spring-thing.html Date: Wed, 28 Jul 2010 15:43:59 -0700 Subject: [RBW] Re: Spring Fender Spacing Thingy From: dougpn...@cox.net To: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com Can you post a photo? Springs are easy to find at good hardware stores especially industrial supply stores. There's more to the mounting than just using a spring, correct? dougP On Jul 28, 3:03 pm, JoelMatthews joelmatth...@mac.com wrote: Some creative bike mechanics use a spring device to attach the fender to the chain stay bridge. Seems like that is ideal for my current project as the bike has Campy 1010 horizontal dropouts. I have looked around and do not see where any of the usual suspects sell such a thing. Are the mechanics cobbling this together? If so, anyone come across a blog or youtube showing how? -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group athttp://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] Re: Spring 2010 VBQ on the way
Mike and Jan, It's a great day when you find out that your wishes had already been granted. Thanks, ...Roy :) On Apr 6, 10:19 am, jan_heine hein...@earthlink.net wrote: My suggestion would be that BQ articles on new bikes and equipment have an associated online archive of color photos. The online full-color archives already exists: http://www.vintagebicyclepress.com/biketests.html(test bikes) and http://www.vintagebicyclepress.com/image-archive.html(classic bikes) Regarding the question of paper vs. electronic, most of us spend enough time looking at a screen. Sitting on the sofa with my children and reading a paper book or magazine is truly quality time. Beyond that, much of the research in Bicycle Quarterly hopefully will endure the ages. And for that, paper is invaluable. Web sites come and go, discs become illegible, but paper endures. If Velocio hadn't printed Le Cycliste on paper, we wouldn't know much about the early days of cyclotouring. And Rebour's wonderful drawings would be long-lost if they hadn't been printed on paper. I recently found an article that described how the low-trail geometries were developed... finally answering some of the questions I've had for years. My take is that if it's something you plan to keep, and if it's important, paper is good. If it's read once and then discarded, electronic is better. Compared to all the paper you get in the mail every year, four issues of Bicycle Quarterly don't make a huge impact. We use a local printer and recycled paper, and most of the magazines are carried to the post office by bike, so we are actively reducing our environmental impact. Jan Heine Editor Bicycle Quarterly 2116 Western Ave. Seattle WA 98121http://www.vintagebicyclepress.com -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] Re: Spring 2010 VBQ on the way
I also love the charm of getting a BQ in the mail but I still have to disagree. Bike porn is better in color. In particular, I saw color pictures online of the Toei that was reviewed in BQ and I felt that the printed black and white photos really failed to convey the loveliness of the bike. On the other hand, I understand that printed color photos are too expensive. My suggestion would be that BQ articles on new bikes and equipment have an associated online archive of color photos. These would give subscribers a better look and would also serve as online advertising to attract non-subscribers who want to read the details in BQ about the gear in the online photos. Apologies kin advance if this is an old idea, ...Roy On Apr 5, 10:47 pm, Matt Critchlow matt.critch...@gmail.com wrote: completely agree. the BW is part of the charm to me. Great magazine!! On Apr 5, 7:38 pm, Tim McNamara tim...@bitstream.net wrote: On Apr 5, 2010, at 4:54 PM, jan_heine wrote: Color would be nice, but it's terribly expensive. We offer color in our books, which can be sold over a longer period of time, and thus amortize the cost. IMHO the BW has a certain niftiness that color just doesn't have. Don't sweat it. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
Re: [RBW] 60 cm Quckbeam f/f on ebay
I've been really torn about bidding on this. The bike is only about 40min from my house, but I already have a 59cm RB-1 that was modified to have track ends and canti brake posts that I ride as a fixed gear. Is the ride of quickbeam very different from the fairly excellent ride of an old RB-1? ...Roy On Sun, Mar 21, 2010 at 2:30 PM, James Warren jimcwar...@earthlink.netwrote: Maybe people are waiting for the Simpleone for its kickstand plate. If that 60 were my size, I'd be pouncing. -Original Message- From: CycloFiend cyclofi...@earthlink.net Sent: Mar 21, 2010 11:32 AM To: rbw group rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com Subject: [RBW] 60 cm Quckbeam f/f on ebay Not pushing it, not mine, don't know the seller, but was suprised to see that this 60cm Quickbeam L'orange was still un-bid-upon (though a $600 opening bid required) with only ~4 hours to go... http://tinyurl.com/qb-69cm-0310 - J -- Jim Edgar cyclofi...@earthlink.net -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.comrbw-owners-bunch%2bunsubscr...@googlegroups.com . For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.comrbw-owners-bunch%2bunsubscr...@googlegroups.com . For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
Re: [RBW] baileworks d-rack bag
Your photos are excellent, and the bag looks nice on the bike. However, in the closeup photos, the bag looks more floppy than boxy, more like the stiffness of a cordura bookbag. So what keeps the bag upright with stiff sides when the bag is on the rack? Thanks, ...Roy On Wed, Mar 17, 2010 at 9:27 AM, Seth Vidal skvi...@gmail.com wrote: Hey folks, my d-rack bag from bailey works bags came in on monday and I got a chance to try it out and take some pictures. Pictures: http://www.flickr.com/photos/skvidal/tags/baileyworks/ Thoughts: I can put a cable lock, a camera, phone, wallet and some food in it, no problem. It's dainty and it fits perfectly on the nitto mini front rack. It fits firmly and doesn't wobble around. The inside appears to be waterproof/resistant vinyl and the outside looks like cordura. The stitching looks good, too. It has a reflective strip along the top flap of the zipper. They don't have them on the site but I bet they'll accept phone calls: http://baileyworks.com/ -sv -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.comrbw-owners-bunch%2bunsubscr...@googlegroups.com . For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
Re: [RBW] Re: $300 Sugino Double Crankset
Based on this whole crank discussion, I've been wondering 1. Are there any cranks to be avoided? Nobody much complains about their cranks as long as the fit (length and Q factor) are ok. This is compared to brakes where you hear a lot of discussion/complaints about squealing, finicky setup, and poor stopping power. As for me, I've used and liked pretty much every crank I've tried, including old sakae square taper, various shimano 600, sugino XD, various shimano Hollowtech-II cranks in 105, ultegra, R700, and Dura-Ace flavors, and even some cheap Campy Veloce cranks. They have all seemed fine. 2. Are some people avoiding the Hollowtech-II cranks with external bearings because they don't come in various Q factors (AFAIK)? ...Roy On Sat, Mar 13, 2010 at 5:19 PM, JoelMatthews joelmatth...@mac.com wrote: If Riv wants to expand to others, good luck as those other people are looking at outboard bearing cranks - that's all the rage and what all the racer-types who are willing to pay $300+ for a crankset seek. Yes, you and I may not care, but the guys willing to spend $300+ for a crankset do. Good Luck! Rando and committed tourers will spend $300.00 for a crank. TA does a tidy business in the market. Whether people will pay a premium for a Sugino when there are cheaper models available is another question. I do not think Riv has much risk, however. It appears Sugino makes the cranks already. Riv is just making them available in the U.S. Just a matter of buying a small quantity first to test the market than get more later if demand is there. On Mar 13, 1:30 pm, bfd bfd...@yahoo.com wrote: On Mar 13, 6:15 am, Garth garth...@gmail.com wrote: For those that may not have known the TA Zephyr triple w/rings sold for about $275 not long ago from Riv. This is was the finest 110/74 crank made. . . . and it even had a third drilling for a 56mm ring instead of the 74. The Q is mid 150's. If Riv was to make any crank, this would be my choice, not yet another wide-ish Sugino. The $300 Sugino may seem a bit high for some, low for others. They could make it more versatile for some if they made it a 94mm BCD instead of 110, but 94mm rings just are not so popular. That's one cool thing about the TA Carmina, that you can change the BCD of your crank from 94/58 to 94 to 110/74 to 110 to 130/74 to 130mm. Agree and how large a market is there for another compact crank? I guess the question is who is the market? Most people looking for 110bcd double cranks have a few choices like the one from VO and Jitensha. If Riv wants to expand to others, good luck as those other people are looking at outboard bearing cranks - that's all the rage and what all the racer-types who are willing to pay $300+ for a crankset seek. Yes, you and I may not care, but the guys willing to spend $300+ for a crankset do. Good Luck! -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.comrbw-owners-bunch%2bunsubscr...@googlegroups.com . For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
Re: [RBW] Re: brakes on the atlantis
Gernot, Your photo and explanation make it very clear. You'e even answered what would have been my next question about the Harris Cyclery statement This can solve a number of problems... Thanks, ...Roy On Fri, Mar 12, 2010 at 1:54 AM, Earl Grey earlg...@gmail.com wrote: Look at http://www.flickr.com/photos/25150...@n08/4426738206/ The long bolt goes through your fork crown, and the forged part rises up from it to accept the cable housing. The idea is that flex between cantilever bosses and cable hanger are minimized. As braking force is applied, the forks bend back slightly, which tightens the brake cable, which causes the brake to engage more strongly, until it breaks free and the cycle is repeated. By moving the brake hanger closer to the fork this flex and the resulting squeal is minimized. Let me know if this is still unclear. Gernot On Mar 12, 12:27 pm, Roy Yates roydya...@gmail.com wrote: A month or two ago, I studied the picture of item CAH59 for a good 10 minutes, but I never figured out how it worked. Instead I installed a traditional housing stop on the headset. I'm still curious to know what CAH59 does An explanation or picture would be great. Thanks, ...Roy On Fri, Mar 12, 2010 at 12:09 AM, Earl Grey earlg...@gmail.com wrote: I had squealing with BR550s on an Indy Fab Planet X. Finally solved with massive toe OUT. Toe in didn't do squat. Have Tektro 720s on my Hillborne. Using a fork crown mounted Tektro cable hanger, no squeal, without any toe in. Switched to a regular headset mounted cable hanger, instant squeal, even after adjust toe in a couple of times to pretty extreme levels. Switched pads to VO no squeal, squeal gone. We'll see how long they last. The hanger I am talking about is item CAH59 on http://www.sheldonbrown.com/harris/cable-hardware-brake.html The Tektro fork crown mounted cable hanger is a god-send, but I had to give it up because I installed a Nitto front rack AND fenders, and the bolt on the rack is not quite long enough to accommodate everything. Briefly thought of attaching the front fender L-bracket inside the fork crown to shorten the stack, but that seemed overly fiddly. If the VO pads wear too fast, perhaps I will resort to this option after all. Gernot On Mar 10, 7:37 am, Angus angusle...@sbcglobal.net wrote: Seth, I have a set of Mafacs and have the same experience as you...nosqueal. I have a set of Mafac copies (similar geometry) and they squealed and vibrated, a toe in adjustment (wrench) and they merely vibrated. They were quite loose on the cantilever post, the Mafacs are noticeably tighter. I don't have Pauls, but the look like they may not use the cantilever post as a bearing surface like the Mafacs do. Angus On Mar 8, 10:40 pm, Seth Vidal skvi...@gmail.com wrote: So, since forever I've had squealing front brake problems with the shimano br550 cantis. The VO no-squealpads worked for a while but they wore down remarkably fast. So this weekend I decided to bite the bullet and I took out an old pair of mafac tandem cantis that I had from an old gitane tandem. After cursing at having to use a crescent wrench and lining up the pads, I took them out and found: 1. they stop better than the shimanos 2. they don'tsqueal. Here's my question - the paul neo-retros are based directly on the mafacs, can I expect similar excellence from them? b/c right now - the price of the paul's is NOTHING compared to the months of being annoyed at my squealing front brakes. -sv -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com . To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.comrbw-owners-bunch%2bunsubscr...@googlegroups.comrbw-owners-bunch%2Bunsubscrib e...@googlegroups.com . For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.comrbw-owners-bunch%2bunsubscr...@googlegroups.com . For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
Re: [RBW] Re: brakes on the atlantis
A month or two ago, I studied the picture of item CAH59 for a good 10 minutes, but I never figured out how it worked. Instead I installed a traditional housing stop on the headset. I'm still curious to know what CAH59 does An explanation or picture would be great. Thanks, ...Roy On Fri, Mar 12, 2010 at 12:09 AM, Earl Grey earlg...@gmail.com wrote: I had squealing with BR550s on an Indy Fab Planet X. Finally solved with massive toe OUT. Toe in didn't do squat. Have Tektro 720s on my Hillborne. Using a fork crown mounted Tektro cable hanger, no squeal, without any toe in. Switched to a regular headset mounted cable hanger, instant squeal, even after adjust toe in a couple of times to pretty extreme levels. Switched pads to VO no squeal, squeal gone. We'll see how long they last. The hanger I am talking about is item CAH59 on http://www.sheldonbrown.com/harris/cable-hardware-brake.html The Tektro fork crown mounted cable hanger is a god-send, but I had to give it up because I installed a Nitto front rack AND fenders, and the bolt on the rack is not quite long enough to accommodate everything. Briefly thought of attaching the front fender L-bracket inside the fork crown to shorten the stack, but that seemed overly fiddly. If the VO pads wear too fast, perhaps I will resort to this option after all. Gernot On Mar 10, 7:37 am, Angus angusle...@sbcglobal.net wrote: Seth, I have a set of Mafacs and have the same experience as you...nosqueal. I have a set of Mafac copies (similar geometry) and they squealed and vibrated, a toe in adjustment (wrench) and they merely vibrated. They were quite loose on the cantilever post, the Mafacs are noticeably tighter. I don't have Pauls, but the look like they may not use the cantilever post as a bearing surface like the Mafacs do. Angus On Mar 8, 10:40 pm, Seth Vidal skvi...@gmail.com wrote: So, since forever I've had squealing front brake problems with the shimano br550 cantis. The VO no-squealpads worked for a while but they wore down remarkably fast. So this weekend I decided to bite the bullet and I took out an old pair of mafac tandem cantis that I had from an old gitane tandem. After cursing at having to use a crescent wrench and lining up the pads, I took them out and found: 1. they stop better than the shimanos 2. they don'tsqueal. Here's my question - the paul neo-retros are based directly on the mafacs, can I expect similar excellence from them? b/c right now - the price of the paul's is NOTHING compared to the months of being annoyed at my squealing front brakes. -sv -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.comrbw-owners-bunch%2bunsubscr...@googlegroups.com . For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
Re: [RBW] Re: What would you pay for a used custom?
I once sold a set of Silver Shifters that I bought from Rivendell for more than they sell for at Rivendell. My eBay Auction even said, These sell for $75 at Rivbike.com: Maybe your shipping was cheaper and/or faster than Riv. ...Roy On Tue, Mar 9, 2010 at 4:12 PM, Sean Whelan strummer_...@yahoo.com wrote: Ebay values for stuff have little to do with the original purchase price. Values for used frames vary hugely based on the size, and the current market for the frame. A special vintage French touring bike might go for much more than its original price, due to its rarity, while a 3 year old Racing Aluminum Trek might go for peanuts. I once sold a set of Silver Shifters that I bought from Rivendell for more than they sell for at Rivendell. My eBay Auction even said, These sell for $75 at Rivbike.com: Hmmm. Sean --- On *Tue, 3/9/10, William tapebu...@gmail.com* wrote: From: William tapebu...@gmail.com Subject: [RBW] Re: What would you pay for a used custom? To: RBW Owners Bunch rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com Date: Tuesday, March 9, 2010, 3:18 PM Good point. This one on ebay claims to have been built by Waterford. That was the basis for my hypothetical. Do you think this Waterford Custom retailed for a lot less than $3000? On Mar 9, 12:10 pm, Seth Vidal skvi...@gmail.comhttp://mc/compose?to=skvi...@gmail.com wrote: On Tue, Mar 9, 2010 at 3:07 PM, William tapebu...@gmail.comhttp://mc/compose?to=tapebu...@gmail.com wrote: So, if a new custom costs $3000 and a new stock frame costs $2000 from the same builder (Waterford Rivs, for example), then your used custom is worth some percentage less than $2000, in my opinion. Am I wrong about that? Would you pay more for a used custom Riv (that fit you) than you would for a used Hilsen (in your best size)? I think they have identical value, assuming they are the right bike for the application, etc etc. Well - a custom isn't made at waterford, iirc. Mark(?) Nobliette(sp?) is doing those. -sv -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.comhttp://mc/compose?to=rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com . To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+ unsubscr...@googlegroups.comhttp://mc/compose?to=unsubscr...@googlegroups.com . For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.comrbw-owners-bunch%2bunsubscr...@googlegroups.com . For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
Re: [RBW] Re: Acorn Hobo and Nitto Lamp Holder
Doug, Thanks for confirming my suspicions. ...Roy On Thu, Feb 25, 2010 at 12:35 AM, doug peterson dougpn...@cox.net wrote: Roy: That's a question that I also had, so I did a bit of fiddling on the answer. I took a standard rear trunk bag, appox length width of a rear rack, and mounted on the small Nitto front rack. Lead dive weights are handy for these experiments since the weight can be concentrated in a small area. A weight placed close to the steering axis had little affect; moving the same weight as far forward as the bag allows (maybe 10?) had a huge affect on flop general squirreliness of the bike. This was way beyond the end of the rack but the back is pretty stiff and wasn't flopping. So I think the reason boxy rando bags orient crossways is to both to keep the weight close to the steering axis and to provide plenty of volume by taking up otherwise unused space between the bars. Note that Riv's Lil Loafer is about the same dims as the length x width of a small Nitto. Cute bag but too small for a pack rat like me. dougP On Feb 23, 5:26 pm, Roy Yates roydya...@gmail.com wrote: Doug and Rob, why are boxy rando bags mounted cross-wise on a front rack? Is it just because the horizontal way makes for a more useful clear map pocket on top or is handling also an issue? Thanks, ...Roy -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.comrbw-owners-bunch%2bunsubscr...@googlegroups.com . For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en. -- Roy D. Yates Professor, ECE Associate Director, WINLAB http://www.winlab.rutgers.edu/~ryates -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
Re: [RBW] Re: Bar height and hand pain... don't know what else to do...
Besides what everyone else's good advice, it can only help to do crunches to build the strength of your abdominal core. On Wed, Feb 24, 2010 at 9:36 AM, Tim McNamara tim...@bitstream.net wrote: On Feb 24, 2010, at 1:13 AM, Rene Sterental wrote: Can anybody offer more insight into what I might try doing to deal with the pain in my hands? Hand *pain* when riding is fairly unusual IME. Focal numbness is common enough that there is a name for it: cyclist's palsy or handlebar palsy. It's caused by compression of the ulnar nerve and causes numbness of the ring and little fingers. Sometimes there is pain, from what I've read. Googling for this might find some helpful articles- here's one: http://recoverydoctor.blogspot.com/2009/08/cyclist-palsy-ulnar- neuropathy-handle.html In terms of immediate practical recommendations, play with handlebar angle to see if that helps to get the pressure off the tender area. Try double wrapping the bars or using even a couple of layers of cork tape- a larger diameter might be helpful. There are gel inserts you can buy to go under the tape, too. And as others have said, saddle position and angle might be helpful; for one thing, make sure your saddle is not too high or too far back (ever since Greg Lemond's book, cyclists have been shoving saddles as far back as possible and often too far back). Good luck! -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.comrbw-owners-bunch%2bunsubscr...@googlegroups.com . For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
Re: [RBW] Re: Acorn Hobo and Nitto Lamp Holder
I agree that closer to the axis of rotation should be better since it minimizes the moment of inertia. This suggests that less rotation of a front bag is better. In that case, here in the RBW world that there are bikes with high handlebars and tall headtubes such that it would be feasible (especially with moustache bars and horizontal brake levers) to attach a front bag directly to the headtube that never rotates. On Wed, Feb 24, 2010 at 7:07 AM, Ken Freeman kenfreeman...@gmail.comwrote: As I understand it, the best location for a front load isn't necessarily lower, but primarily it should be closer to the steering axis. If you move a bag lower, it gets closer to the steering axis. If you look at front pannier racks, the center of the loaded pannier usually falls in line with the steering axis. I think it also WANTS (not saying NEEDS) to be behind the front axle. This leads to fork designs with low trail, which implies high rake, which is essentially moving the front axle farther forward relative to the BB. While some riders don't think it's essential to have low trail if you have a front load, some randonneurs want to ride no-handed with a significant front load, and access their stuff without affecting how the bike is running, especially while they're riding tired. This is a different degree of stability than a rider who in an errand run, moderate commute, or even a 25 mile regular ride, is able to control the bike with both hands on most of the time. I don't know if any experienced randonneurs have done brevets with Rivs and significant front loads, and are comfortable no-handed. I'd like to know, because while I really like some Rivs and would like to try a Roadie or something like a Ramb, I think I want a low-trail geometry. There's an unbuilt 57 cm Bleriot on Ebay singing to me ... I tried an old-style handlebar bag on my Trek 610 with racier geometry (58 mm trail after reducing the rake), with about 12# in the front bag. On a hilly ride in northern Michigan, about 30 miles, I was able to ride well. It did not feel as good no-handed or even one-handed as it does when unloaded, and on a very slow section it was really hard to keep the fork from flopping over. I have about and 8 cm stem on here. I don't think the high-trail geometry is good for me, with a front load. On Tue, Feb 23, 2010 at 8:26 PM, Roy Yates roydya...@gmail.com wrote: Doug and Rob, Thanks for answering my newb questions. I generally would imagine lower is better for a front bag, except its hard to see exactly why since a bag tightly fixed to the handlebars goes through the same rotation as a bag on a front rack as the bars are turned. I suppose it's related to the mysteries of bar/headset stability. In any event, I saw a custom rack this weekend, similar to a Nitto M-12 mini front rack with a classic looking boxy rando bag (although i can't remember which.) However, instead of a decaleur coming down from the bars/stem, the vertical U loop at the rear of the rack had an attached extension (2 vertical standards, with a cross bar) functioned as a decaleur. Frankly, it seemed like an excellent solution since it eliminates a bag attachment up near the handlebars, where it can get in the way, and perhaps compromise handling. I just wonder why I haven't seen this before? If you're not too tired of my questions, why are boxy rando bags mounted cross-wise on a front rack? Is it just because the horizontal way makes for a more useful clear map pocket on top or is handling also an issue? Thanks, ...Roy On Tue, Feb 23, 2010 at 4:30 PM, doug peterson dougpn...@cox.net wrote: Roy: +1 for Rob's general comments about loading. It does boil down to personal preference. We've had several lively discussions re: trail, load placement, etc., with no clear consensus. But it keeps us thinking. To your question, my answer is an un-qualified Yes. I've tried an old fashioned handlebar bag what mounts to the stem. This places the top of the bag roughly at handlebar height. On my Atlantis, this set up was unacceptably floppy squirrely, and I'm not fussy about these things. Acorn's Boxy Rando is roughly the same size and mounts on a small Nitto (M-12?) front rack. The overall weight of the 2 bags with mounting is roughly the same BUT the weight is a couple of inches lower. Even with the Acorn stuffed full of food, jacket, etc., effect on handling is minimal. The Acorn may sit closer to steerer tube as well, now that I think about it. So yes, lower further back is better, in my experience. Note the Atlantis is a high trail bike so YMMV. dougP On Feb 23, 11:42 am, rperks perks@gmail.com wrote: in General handling should be improved by keeping the load/mass lower and above the axel. This largely falls into the personal preferance range though. The loads I carry in the front: Panasonic GF1 Spare Tube Wallet Phone Keys Extra water
Re: [RBW] Acorn Hobo and Nitto Lamp Holder
It sounds like you're saying that for a front bag, lower is always better? Is that right? Does that mean a not-too-tall bag that mounts just on a (mini?) front rack is better than the similar size bag that also uses a decaleur or just uses a handlebar mount? Thanks, ...Roy On Mon, Feb 22, 2010 at 6:45 PM, rperks perks@gmail.com wrote: I know that some of you out there are as in love with the Hobo bag design as I am. On my Roadeo the Acorn version has been working pretty well, but I wanted to tweak it a bit. I bought a nitto Lamp Holder 2, quite a nice bit of shiny Nitto goodness as one would expect. I mounted it with the accessory bar down and back a bit from the Bar center. This alowed a clear path for the existing cable runs while getting the bag down almost 2 inches, and back 1/2 an inch or so. There was a noticible improvement in the handling when I stuff too much junk in it, and almot no affect in handling with 5 lbs or less in it. Pics Here: http://www.flickr.com/photos/36302...@n08/4380585188/ I have been making an honest effort not to carry so much stuff on this bike, not that it can't handle it, but it is just not the point of the bike. Rob -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.comrbw-owners-bunch%2bunsubscr...@googlegroups.com . For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
Re: [RBW] Re: Acorn Hobo and Nitto Lamp Holder
Doug and Rob, Thanks for answering my newb questions. I generally would imagine lower is better for a front bag, except its hard to see exactly why since a bag tightly fixed to the handlebars goes through the same rotation as a bag on a front rack as the bars are turned. I suppose it's related to the mysteries of bar/headset stability. In any event, I saw a custom rack this weekend, similar to a Nitto M-12 mini front rack with a classic looking boxy rando bag (although i can't remember which.) However, instead of a decaleur coming down from the bars/stem, the vertical U loop at the rear of the rack had an attached extension (2 vertical standards, with a cross bar) functioned as a decaleur. Frankly, it seemed like an excellent solution since it eliminates a bag attachment up near the handlebars, where it can get in the way, and perhaps compromise handling. I just wonder why I haven't seen this before? If you're not too tired of my questions, why are boxy rando bags mounted cross-wise on a front rack? Is it just because the horizontal way makes for a more useful clear map pocket on top or is handling also an issue? Thanks, ...Roy On Tue, Feb 23, 2010 at 4:30 PM, doug peterson dougpn...@cox.net wrote: Roy: +1 for Rob's general comments about loading. It does boil down to personal preference. We've had several lively discussions re: trail, load placement, etc., with no clear consensus. But it keeps us thinking. To your question, my answer is an un-qualified Yes. I've tried an old fashioned handlebar bag what mounts to the stem. This places the top of the bag roughly at handlebar height. On my Atlantis, this set up was unacceptably floppy squirrely, and I'm not fussy about these things. Acorn's Boxy Rando is roughly the same size and mounts on a small Nitto (M-12?) front rack. The overall weight of the 2 bags with mounting is roughly the same BUT the weight is a couple of inches lower. Even with the Acorn stuffed full of food, jacket, etc., effect on handling is minimal. The Acorn may sit closer to steerer tube as well, now that I think about it. So yes, lower further back is better, in my experience. Note the Atlantis is a high trail bike so YMMV. dougP On Feb 23, 11:42 am, rperks perks@gmail.com wrote: in General handling should be improved by keeping the load/mass lower and above the axel. This largely falls into the personal preferance range though. The loads I carry in the front: Panasonic GF1 Spare Tube Wallet Phone Keys Extra water on a big day this keeps the load weight pretty low, all things relative. I tend to carry too much food, water tools, and god knows what if I am leaving for more than a couple of hours. I had my Carradice Nelson LF on the back for a while, and with both bags loaded the handnilg was acceptable, but in the back of my mind I knew I had too much stuff I would never use. I used to belive that suble position changes of the load could not change haanling in a noticable way, in this case it did though. Load position and amound can and has been be disussed for eons, what is optimum for you boils down to personal experience. Popular theory would have Grant's designs primarily as rear loaders, but baskets seam to work as well as smaller front loads. I have hauled 45lbs of teff flour home balanced on the handlebars of my crosscheck(high trail geometry) for a couple of miles, far from optimum but I survived, and it was way faster than walking. For me Optimum seems to be less than 8 lbs or so on the front of a high trail bike, with any additional load on the rear. I have not yet had a low trail bike to ride. Any time I put more than 30 lbs up high in the front the forks go wobbily before I have to worry about general handling. Rob On Feb 22, 5:03 pm, Roy Yates roydya...@gmail.com wrote: It sounds like you're saying that for a front bag, lower is always better? Is that right? Does that mean a not-too-tall bag that mounts just on a (mini?) front rack is better than the similar size bag that also uses a decaleur or just uses a handlebar mount? Thanks, ...Roy - Show quoted text -- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.comrbw-owners-bunch%2bunsubscr...@googlegroups.com . For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group
Re: [RBW] GPS vs web based mappings
*It depends on what website you use. My understanding is that each interpolates the same topo data base in its own way. Also, my impression is that each website keeps tuning their algorithms in the hope of greater accuracy. What's not clear is whether any of these sites get access to side information or secondary databases * * * *My own experience is with the Garmin 705 (which has a barometric altimeter) and a VDO MC1.0+ which also has a barometric altimeter but no GPS. I've found that the two tend to report results within about 10% of each other. The VDO which has doesn't have GPS, tends to do more averaging of the barometer readings. * * * *As for websites, I've been using bikeroutetoaster.com and ridewithgps.com. My experience was that a bikeroutetoaster often underestimated the vertical feet in a route by 10-20%. On the other hand, ridewithgps tended to be closer, and occasionally overestimate a little. It seems possible to me that ridewithgps may well have added a correction factor to account for small ups and downs? * * * *In any case, both have been much better than my experiences with mapmyride. However, I stopped using mapmyride 2 years ago, and it is very possible they have changed their algorithms in the meantime. * ...Roy On Mon, Feb 15, 2010 at 4:10 PM, Eric Norris campyonly...@me.com wrote: Can't compare web to GPS, but I've found over the years that both calculate more climbing than is shown by an altimeter watch or bike computer. The altimeter typically shows about 30% less altitude gain, probably because the mapped versions add up every little up while most altimeters ignore small gains. — Eric Norris www.campyonly.com www.wheelsnorth.com [image: Blog] http://campyonlyguy.blogspot.com[image: Flickr]http://www.flickr.com/photos/35176...@n03[image: Web] http://www.campyonly.com[image: Web] http://www.wheelsnorth.org[image: Web] http://www.groovyboy.org[image: Email] campyonly...@me.com On Feb 15, 2010, at 12:59 PM, doug peterson dougpn...@cox.net wrote: In mapping out routes, I've noticed big differences in both distance and elevation gain between GPS and plotting the same route on web based mapping services. Distances can be off by 5%-10% and elevation by double. The web based systems are always higher than GPS. Has anyone else encountered this? It's entirely possible I'm doing something wrong on the web based systems. dougP -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.comrbw-owners-bunch%2bunsubscr...@googlegroups.com . For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en. -- Roy D. Yates Professor, ECE Associate Director, WINLAB http://www.winlab.rutgers.edu/~ryates -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
Re: [RBW] Re: GPS vs web based mappings
For the reasons Leslie noted, the Garmin units like the 205 or the older etrex Legend that just use GPS to measure altitude changes work quite terribly; I have seen errors by as much as a factor of 2. On the other hand, the units (like the 705) that have the barometric altimeter seem to be roughly about as accurate as other bike computers that just have a barometric altimeter but no GPS capability. In principle, Garmin could be using a proprietary algorithm that does data fusion on GPS measurements, topo databases, and the barometric altimeter. What they actually do, AFAIK, is not disclosed. However, my guess based on observation is the models with barometric altimeter are mostly using that. ...Roy On Tue, Feb 16, 2010 at 10:20 AM, Leslie leslie.bri...@gmail.com wrote: On Feb 15, 4:32 pm, Jim Thill - Hiawatha Cyclery thill@gmail.com wrote: GPS should record elevation changes more accurately, and both GPS and cycle computers should record distance traveled more accurately than mapping software does. In the old days (10-15 years ago), GPS elevation measurements were suspect because there weren't always enough satellites to triangulate accurately in the 3rd dimension. I think this has improved lately. I've never used a bicycle computer, so I can't speak to comparing its data to web-based map service, but I can touch upon the GPS elevation issue. While it's true that the satellite constellation has filled out (and is currently being rearranged from a 21+3 to a 24+3 configuration over the next year or so), and GPS receivers are now running at least 12 channels or more, that accuracy has improved. Unfortunately, the vertical accuracy will always lag the horizontal, because the earth isn't transparent. If you were to stand at a window with a GPS unit and look at the 'skyplot' view, you would notice that the receiver is picking up signals from satellites out in front of you that you can see from the window (if you could actually 'see' them), but that the ones behind you are blocked by the building, which thus skews your calculated location. If you then went outside and were standing in the middle of a field, you could see satellites all around, then the calculated location can be more precise. The same thing is going on with elevations, but in that case, it's the earth that's obscuring signals from satellites on the other side of the earth. Because all of the satellites within view are being used are all overhead, and not 'behind' you, there's a bit of a skew; the smallest bit of error makes for a much larger change in elevation, than you would get for horizontal calculations. If the satellites that you're viewing/using are spread out around the horizon, then you'll be better off than if they were all clustered directly overhead - that would help minimize that error - but, that error will still be greater than your horizontal. FWIW, the maps that I usually make, I will pull my horizontal location off the GPS, plot it on a topo, then use the elevations off the map, in order to compare to other locations (that aren't GPS'd). [Unless, I can actually GPS the other locations myself, too, in which case I'll then emphasize their relative elevations over absolute elevations.] With that said, yes, it's improving. I've got a few Trimble units here in my office that are sub-meter, and I can pull off sub-foot with them, given enough time (and even cm-level accuracy w/ a LOT of time and post-processing); but, vertically, I wouldn't guarantee anything more than sub-foot, and that's w/ a long residence time, not an instantaneous value, as you would have if you're biking along. (Hope that's not totally confusing) -L -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.comrbw-owners-bunch%2bunsubscr...@googlegroups.com . For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
Re: [RBW] Re: 700x35c tires
I'm also in interested in the Marathon Racers, but in the 26 x 1.5in size for an All Rounder. For a fairly fat tire, the folding version has a relatively light weight of 390 grams. The Marathon Racer is advertized as having a pure skin sidewall, but I can't tell from the web if I should view this as a plus or minus. (I'm looking for a good brevet tire.) I recall the quest for supple fast 26 (ie 559) road tires came up in a recent thread. I don't recall anyone suggesting this is a tire for 26 wheels that provides a ride similar to the Hetres. Can anyone here compare them? Thanks! ...Roy On Sat, Feb 13, 2010 at 7:09 PM, Ron MH visio...@gmail.com wrote: I have been looking at the Schwalbe Marathon Racers, though I haven't pulled the trigger yet. http://www.schwalbetires.com/node/1322 On Feb 13, 3:35 pm, Gino Zahnd ginoza...@gmail.com wrote: What else besides the Jack Brown and Schwalbe Kojak exist for light-ish fast tires that are good for mixed terrain riding? Those are two great choices, but I'm curious what else might be out there. I know there's the Pasela, but that tire is too squirmy for my taste. Thanks, Gino -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.comrbw-owners-bunch%2bunsubscr...@googlegroups.com . For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en. -- Roy D. Yates Professor, ECE Associate Director, WINLAB http://www.winlab.rutgers.edu/~ryates -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
Re: [RBW] Re: Sugino XD cranks/chainring question
Michael wrote A difference of 10 between rings consistently yields a single step on the cogs, and a difference of 14 yields 2 clicks, but a difference of 12 is neither one nor the other. It seems to me that this depends on the gears in the rear cassette. For example, for a Harris Cyclery 9 speed century special 13-14-15-17-19-21-24-27-30 cassette, the changing from a 36 to 46 ring equals 2 steps on the rear cogs for cogs 15 and up. In general, these gearing choices are really a personal preference. What really matters is what you are trying to achieve. It seems to me Michael likes the fact that the big ring in cog n provides roughly the same gear as the small ring in cog n+2. I think what this means is that he likes that in the high gears of the small ring or the lower gears of the big ring provide him the gears he likes without needing a front shift. On the other hand, this means that the big ring and small ring duplicate several gears. Another's preference might be to choose the rings and rear cassette to provide as many unique gears as possible. As I understand it, this is the idea of a half step (say 52-47) front ring. Jumping down to the small ring gives you a gear halfway between gears on the big ring. However, you get that uniqueness only by making a lot of FD shifts. (Note a BQ article last year points out how electronic shifting could make this convenient in the future.) Lately, I've concluded my own personal preference is to use a triple so that I can use narrower range in the rear cassette, and get closer gear ratios with RD gear changes. But that's just feels good to me. Preferences will vary depending on how you pedal and on what kind of hills you ride. ...Roy On Thu, Feb 11, 2010 at 9:50 AM, Frederick, Steve frede...@mail.lib.msu.edu wrote: I've come to prefer a 10-tooth jump between chainrings but I didn't really understand why they seemed best. Thanks much to Michael for 'splainin' it! Steve Frederick, East Lansing, MI -Original Message- From: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com [mailto:rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com]on Behalf Of doug peterson Sent: Wednesday, February 10, 2010 11:42 PM To: RBW Owners Bunch Subject: [RBW] Re: Sugino XD cranks/chainring question Here's a second to Michael's comments about 12 tooth difference vs 10 or 14. I'll bet your triple has 46/36/26 or 24. I'd be inclined to ride the 48/34 combo before changing things. Don't forget the other end of the drive train when thinking about ring changes. A 13-30 or 32 cluster would be nice with a compact double. A 48 x 12 high gear is pretty racy perish the thought of anything with an 11. dougP On Feb 10, 6:28 pm, MichaelH mhech...@gmail.com wrote: Why 46/34 rather than 48/34? If you lay out the ratios in a chart, you will quickly se that the 48/34 has more consistent jumps between gears with a simpler shifting pattern. If you don't know how to lay this out, I can help you. A difference of 10 between rings consistently yields a single step on the cogs, and a difference of 14 yields 2 clicks, but a difference of 12 is neither one nor the other. Personally, I find the ramps on chain rings way over rated. These shifting aids have real value add on cogs, but I haven't experienced enough benefit on rings to go out of my may to buy them. Michael On Feb 9, 9:22 pm, Mike mjawn...@gmail.com wrote: I'm in the process of changing out cranks on my Hilsen. I'll be switching from a Sugino triple to a Sugino compact double. The double has 48/34 rings but I think what I want is 46/34. My Rambouillet has a 46t chainring on it that I might cannabalize but I'm thinking of just using the 46t ring off the triple. The 48t ring is clearly ramped and pinned. The 46t ring on the triple does not look ramped at all. Is that correct? It seemed to shift fine. I notice that the Sugino chainrings that Riv uses have no ramps or pins, are those the same as the chainrings that come on the crank? --mike- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.comrbw-owners-bunch%2bunsubscr...@googlegroups.com . For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.comrbw-owners-bunch%2bunsubscr...@googlegroups.com . For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en. -- Roy D. Yates Professor, ECE Associate Director, WINLAB
