Re: [RBW] Re: Hunq's Slipping Seatpost

2015-05-02 Thread James Warren

My reaction is not the same. The seatpost/seat-tube junction is not an uncommon 
problem area in bicycles. I've seen the problem enough to give any company the 
benefit of the doubt on it. Yes, they shouldn't see it as tolerable, and 
Waterford shouldn't repeatedly make a mistake, but I know Riv well enough that 
I'm not going to assume they think the problem is acceptable.

Also, I've seen simple fixes to seatpost slipping. Maybe, even if warranted, 
it's not worth it to the customer to send the whole frame back for a 
replacement. In principle, the customer should get a flawless product. Despite 
the existence of that principle, it might still be in the better interest of 
the customer to get help with the quick fix, because often with the seatpost 
problem, the fix is lasting. It's worth considering as opposed to the personal 
labor and waiting time involved with frame replacement. So if Rivendell were 
helpful (as I've always found them to be) as they gave advice on how to prevent 
the slipping, that would not cause me to be disappointed in the company.

-Jim W.


On May 1, 2015, at 6:58 PM, Christopher Murray wrote:

 Wow!! I don't understand how this is acceptable by either Waterford or 
 Rivendell. I would want a new bike and I don't feel like I should have to ask 
 or insist... Rivendell should be insisting on delivering a defect free 
 product not making half-assed solution suggestions. I have owned 4 Rivendells 
 and I can say after hearing this I can't see buying another. I am REALLY, 
 REALLY disappointed in Rivendell.
 
 Chris
 
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James Warren
jimcwar...@earthlink.net

- 700x33






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[RBW] Re: Hunq's Slipping Seatpost

2015-05-02 Thread 'Chris Lampe 2' via RBW Owners Bunch
Thanks for posting this additional bit of information. I'm not surprised, 
given the reputation of RBW for supporting customers after the sale but 
it's good to see it verified.  

Having said that, if there have been multiple Hunq's with this problem, 
then maybe RBW needs to rethink their QC procedures.  



On Saturday, May 2, 2015 at 10:12:29 AM UTC-5, Kevin Lindsey wrote:

 This wasn't acceptable to Rivendell.  I left out this part of the story, 
 but maybe I shouldn't have: Keven and the others at Rive were all over me 
 to send the frame back or otherwise tell them what I needed to get this 
 issue resolved.  As readers of this forum understand, there's probably no 
 better customer service and customer support in the world than Rivendell's. 
  Not sending the frame back was my choice; frankly, I was having such a 
 good time with my new Hunqapillar that the thought of waiting X number of 
 weeks for a replacement just wasn't an attractive one.
 Rivendell is a great company and I wouldn't hesitate to buy anything from 
 them, and in fact am already putting a slight bit of pressure on my wife to 
 let me buy her a Riv of her own.


 On Friday, May 1, 2015 at 9:58:27 PM UTC-4, Christopher Murray wrote:

 Wow!! I don't understand how this is acceptable by either Waterford or 
 Rivendell. I would want a new bike and I don't feel like I should have to 
 ask or insist... Rivendell should be insisting on delivering a defect free 
 product not making half-assed solution suggestions. I have owned 4 
 Rivendells and I can say after hearing this I can't see buying another. I 
 am REALLY, REALLY disappointed in Rivendell. 

 Chris



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Re: [RBW] Re: Hunq's Slipping Seatpost

2015-05-02 Thread Bruce Smitham
Riv always tries to make good on their products. Some small details can be
a bit disappointing but I always forget about that stuff when I go for a
ride on one of my Rivendell's.

Bruce in San DIego

On Sat, May 2, 2015 at 8:12 AM, Kevin Lindsey lindsey.ke...@gmail.com
wrote:

 This wasn't acceptable to Rivendell.  I left out this part of the story,
 but maybe I shouldn't have: Keven and the others at Rive were all over me
 to send the frame back or otherwise tell them what I needed to get this
 issue resolved.  As readers of this forum understand, there's probably no
 better customer service and customer support in the world than
 Rivendell's.  Not sending the frame back was my choice; frankly, I was
 having such a good time with my new Hunqapillar that the thought of waiting
 X number of weeks for a replacement just wasn't an attractive one.
 Rivendell is a great company and I wouldn't hesitate to buy anything from
 them, and in fact am already putting a slight bit of pressure on my wife to
 let me buy her a Riv of her own.



 On Friday, May 1, 2015 at 9:58:27 PM UTC-4, Christopher Murray wrote:

 Wow!! I don't understand how this is acceptable by either Waterford or
 Rivendell. I would want a new bike and I don't feel like I should have to
 ask or insist... Rivendell should be insisting on delivering a defect free
 product not making half-assed solution suggestions. I have owned 4
 Rivendells and I can say after hearing this I can't see buying another. I
 am REALLY, REALLY disappointed in Rivendell.

 Chris

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[RBW] Re: Hunq's Slipping Seatpost

2015-05-02 Thread Kevin Lindsey
This wasn't acceptable to Rivendell.  I left out this part of the story, 
but maybe I shouldn't have: Keven and the others at Rive were all over me 
to send the frame back or otherwise tell them what I needed to get this 
issue resolved.  As readers of this forum understand, there's probably no 
better customer service and customer support in the world than Rivendell's. 
 Not sending the frame back was my choice; frankly, I was having such a 
good time with my new Hunqapillar that the thought of waiting X number of 
weeks for a replacement just wasn't an attractive one.
Rivendell is a great company and I wouldn't hesitate to buy anything from 
them, and in fact am already putting a slight bit of pressure on my wife to 
let me buy her a Riv of her own.


On Friday, May 1, 2015 at 9:58:27 PM UTC-4, Christopher Murray wrote:

 Wow!! I don't understand how this is acceptable by either Waterford or 
 Rivendell. I would want a new bike and I don't feel like I should have to 
 ask or insist... Rivendell should be insisting on delivering a defect free 
 product not making half-assed solution suggestions. I have owned 4 
 Rivendells and I can say after hearing this I can't see buying another. I 
 am REALLY, REALLY disappointed in Rivendell. 

 Chris

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[RBW] Re: Hunq's Slipping Seatpost

2015-05-02 Thread Christopher Murray
Thanks for the additional info. That sound much more like the Rivendell I know. 

Chris

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[RBW] Re: Hunq's Slipping Seatpost

2015-05-01 Thread Leslie
Ron, 

On the old Rovers to which I'm referring, the steel chassis we're painted, and 
the steel body cappings were galvanized; the zinc coating was much closer to 
aluminum and wouldn't suffer galvanic corrosion.  But on locations where a 
non-galvanized steel bracket was riveted to the aluminum body tub, there is 
usually massive amounts of corrosion of the aluminum.  I've replaced many 
aluminum Rover body panels due to the amount of corrosion present.   

I wasn't calling you out in reference to what's happening in bikes;  only 
countering the statement that aluminum/steel galvanic corrosion is a myth: it's 
not a myth, it's fact.   Aluminum is often used as an anode to protect steel.

Thinking about it further, another significant difference between a what 
happens in a Rover and a bicycle is that there are currents present in a 
vehicle, w/ the engine/battery, starter/alternator, lighting/wiring, ground 
connections, etc... 

On a bicycle (well, unlit bicycles), there shouldn't be any electrical currents 
present, at least not in a considerable amount.  I think that's why aluminum 
against painted steel on a bike doesn't have a problem, the way Rovers can. 

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[RBW] Re: Hunq's Slipping Seatpost

2015-05-01 Thread Christopher Murray
Wow!! I don't understand how this is acceptable by either Waterford or 
Rivendell. I would want a new bike and I don't feel like I should have to ask 
or insist... Rivendell should be insisting on delivering a defect free product 
not making half-assed solution suggestions. I have owned 4 Rivendells and I can 
say after hearing this I can't see buying another. I am REALLY, REALLY 
disappointed in Rivendell.

Chris

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[RBW] Re: Hunq's Slipping Seatpost

2015-05-01 Thread Ron Mc
Maybe it was locally concentrated ferric chloride from corrosion of the 
steel in salt, but there is insufficient galvanic difference between steel 
and aluminum to cause galvanic corrosion.  Leslie, this is my profession 
and what pays for my bicycles.  

On Friday, May 1, 2015 at 9:21:17 AM UTC-5, Leslie wrote:

 On Wednesday, April 29, 2015 at 10:46:21 AM UTC-4, Ron Mc wrote:

 again, the galvanic difference between aluminum and steel is insufficient 
 to promote galvanic corrosion - the occurrence is a bike shop myth.  You 
 don't need a barrier between the two metals, but a barrier between the 
 metal surface and condensation.  


 Stop!   That's not rightI've been through PLENTY of old Land 
 Rovers, where the aluminum is eaten away where it contacts the steel  
 it is not a myth, it's real chemistry at work.

 Now, I will concede, it may not a big deal for bicycles;  most of mine I 
 keep in good enough shape, that I've not had any problems w/ such, but, the 
 science is legit that galvanic corrosion between aluminum and steel does 
 occur

  


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[RBW] Re: Hunq's Slipping Seatpost

2015-05-01 Thread Leslie
On Wednesday, April 29, 2015 at 10:46:21 AM UTC-4, Ron Mc wrote:

 again, the galvanic difference between aluminum and steel is insufficient 
 to promote galvanic corrosion - the occurrence is a bike shop myth.  You 
 don't need a barrier between the two metals, but a barrier between the 
 metal surface and condensation.  


Stop!   That's not rightI've been through PLENTY of old Land 
Rovers, where the aluminum is eaten away where it contacts the steel  
it is not a myth, it's real chemistry at work.

Now, I will concede, it may not a big deal for bicycles;  most of mine I 
keep in good enough shape, that I've not had any problems w/ such, but, the 
science is legit that galvanic corrosion between aluminum and steel does 
occur

 

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[RBW] Re: Hunq's Slipping Seatpost

2015-05-01 Thread Kevin Lindsey
Hi Keith.
Thanks again for the excellent work, and I'm still amazed by the 
coincidence that you also are a Hunqapillar owner.  
I just passed the hundred mile mark on the Hunq this morning, and the 
seatpost remains firmly in place.  The dirtiest experience was also this 
morning - the CO canal was its usual post-rain mess of clay, mud, ruts and 
puddles; bike came through like a trooper, but it'll be due for a bath 
tonight.

On Friday, May 1, 2015 at 2:08:00 PM UTC-4, Keith Muller wrote:

 Kevin,

 I'm glad to hear that what I did to your Hunq seemed to fix the problem. 
  Let me know if you have any other issues.  Did you find a replacement bolt 
 and nut for the seat cluster.  Hopefully you've had a chance to get your 
 new bike dirty!

 Best,

 Keith

 On Monday, April 27, 2015 at 10:17:04 AM UTC-4, Kevin Lindsey wrote:

 Just finished building my Hunqapillar over the weekend and rode it 20+ 
 miles to work this morning.  Although still too early to tell, it has my 
 very favorite bike stamped all over it.
 With one possible exception:  I can't get the seatpost to stop slipping 
 down.  Despite tightening the bolt to so hard that the allen hole is 
 starting to strip, it still inches down as I ride, and we had to stop six 
 times on the ride in this morning to raise the seat back up.  Very 
 frustrating.  I had thought that maybe the brake cable hanger was 
 interfering with the seat tube somehow, but I don't see how that can be 
 avoided, given the shape of the hanger and the fact that it has to remain 
 attached to the seatpost bolt.
 Has anyone else experienced this problem?
 Best to all,
 Kevin



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[RBW] Re: Hunq's Slipping Seatpost

2015-05-01 Thread Keith Muller
Kevin,

I'm glad to hear that what I did to your Hunq seemed to fix the problem. 
 Let me know if you have any other issues.  Did you find a replacement bolt 
and nut for the seat cluster.  Hopefully you've had a chance to get your 
new bike dirty!

Best,

Keith

On Monday, April 27, 2015 at 10:17:04 AM UTC-4, Kevin Lindsey wrote:

 Just finished building my Hunqapillar over the weekend and rode it 20+ 
 miles to work this morning.  Although still too early to tell, it has my 
 very favorite bike stamped all over it.
 With one possible exception:  I can't get the seatpost to stop slipping 
 down.  Despite tightening the bolt to so hard that the allen hole is 
 starting to strip, it still inches down as I ride, and we had to stop six 
 times on the ride in this morning to raise the seat back up.  Very 
 frustrating.  I had thought that maybe the brake cable hanger was 
 interfering with the seat tube somehow, but I don't see how that can be 
 avoided, given the shape of the hanger and the fact that it has to remain 
 attached to the seatpost bolt.
 Has anyone else experienced this problem?
 Best to all,
 Kevin


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[RBW] Re: Hunq's Slipping Seatpost

2015-05-01 Thread Leslie
Ron, 

On the old Rovers to which I'm referring, the steel chassis we're painted, and 
the steel body cappings were galvanized; the zinc coating was much closer to 
aluminum and wouldn't suffer galvanic corrosion.  But on locations where a 
non-galvanized steel bracket was riveted to the aluminum body tub, there is 
usually massive amounts of corrosion of the aluminum.  I've replaced many 
aluminum Rover body panels due to the amount of corrosion present.  

I wasn't calling you out in reference to what's happening in bikes;  only 
countering the statement that aluminum/steel galvanic corrosion is a myth: it's 
not a myth, it's fact.  

Thinking about it further, another significant difference between a what 
happens in a Rover and a bicycle is that there are currents present in a 
vehicle, w/ the engine/battery, starter/alternator, lighting/wiring, ground 
connections, etc...

On a bicycle (well, unlit bicycles), there shouldn't be any electrical currents 
present, at least not in a considerable amount.  I think that's why aluminum 
against painted steel on a bike doesn't have a problem, the way Rovers can.

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[RBW] Re: Hunq's Slipping Seatpost

2015-04-29 Thread Garth

 I found out by sheer accident that Frame Saver in the seat tube in 
contact with the seatpost make it very difficult to move !   I have Salsa 
Shaft(matte finish black) on the Bombadil and it is really long , so long 
that it came in contact with the Frame Saver I had applied in the ST .  I 
could barely get in .  I immediately checked the post to make sure it 
really was 27.2 , and it was .  The seat tube is 27.2 for sure, as I had a 
Campy seatpost in it prior.  

I squirted some Boeshield on a rag and rubbed it around the top part of the 
tube to diminish to stickiness of the Frame Save and now I can at least 
move the post a bit easier .  So Frame Saver may work for someone looking 
for a anti friction kind of solution while still preserving and 
protecting the steel .  

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Re: [RBW] Re: Hunq's Slipping Seatpost

2015-04-29 Thread clyde canter
My Sam's post did the same thing.  I used a snap punch to create a grid
of punches about a centimeter wide in the area of the clamp.  Punches were
about 2-3 mm apart. After a bit of sanding with some fine sandpaper the fit
got just about perfect. I wound up with some of the scratching exposed, not
real attractive but functional.  I spent about an hour on this. Post hasn't
slipped since.

On Wed, Apr 29, 2015 at 6:16 AM, Matt B. matthiasbe...@gmail.com wrote:



 On Wednesday, April 29, 2015 at 12:08:37 AM UTC-4, hangtownmatt wrote:

 For as long as I can remember, grease has been applied to seat posts to
 prevent corrosion that WILL fuse the seat post to the seat tube.  Am I the
 only one who thinks it is a mistake to eliminate grease from this contact
 point?

 Matt



 Definitely with you on that, you don't want to encourage seizing between
 the aluminum and steel.Grease works for this but I've also used
 anti-seize compound sometimes, which I think is less prone to slippage.
 In any case, sounds like the OP is all set now that the cable hanger has
 been ID'ed as the culprit.







 On Monday, April 27, 2015 at 7:17:04 AM UTC-7, Kevin Lindsey wrote:

 Just finished building my Hunqapillar over the weekend and rode it 20+
 miles to work this morning.  Although still too early to tell, it has my
 very favorite bike stamped all over it.
 With one possible exception:  I can't get the seatpost to stop slipping
 down.  Despite tightening the bolt to so hard that the allen hole is
 starting to strip, it still inches down as I ride, and we had to stop six
 times on the ride in this morning to raise the seat back up.  Very
 frustrating.  I had thought that maybe the brake cable hanger was
 interfering with the seat tube somehow, but I don't see how that can be
 avoided, given the shape of the hanger and the fact that it has to remain
 attached to the seatpost bolt.
 Has anyone else experienced this problem?
 Best to all,
 Kevin

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[RBW] Re: Hunq's Slipping Seatpost

2015-04-29 Thread Matt B.


On Wednesday, April 29, 2015 at 12:08:37 AM UTC-4, hangtownmatt wrote:

 For as long as I can remember, grease has been applied to seat posts to 
 prevent corrosion that WILL fuse the seat post to the seat tube.  Am I the 
 only one who thinks it is a mistake to eliminate grease from this contact 
 point?

 Matt



Definitely with you on that, you don't want to encourage seizing between 
the aluminum and steel.Grease works for this but I've also used 
anti-seize compound sometimes, which I think is less prone to slippage. 
In any case, sounds like the OP is all set now that the cable hanger has 
been ID'ed as the culprit.





 

 On Monday, April 27, 2015 at 7:17:04 AM UTC-7, Kevin Lindsey wrote:

 Just finished building my Hunqapillar over the weekend and rode it 20+ 
 miles to work this morning.  Although still too early to tell, it has my 
 very favorite bike stamped all over it.
 With one possible exception:  I can't get the seatpost to stop slipping 
 down.  Despite tightening the bolt to so hard that the allen hole is 
 starting to strip, it still inches down as I ride, and we had to stop six 
 times on the ride in this morning to raise the seat back up.  Very 
 frustrating.  I had thought that maybe the brake cable hanger was 
 interfering with the seat tube somehow, but I don't see how that can be 
 avoided, given the shape of the hanger and the fact that it has to remain 
 attached to the seatpost bolt.
 Has anyone else experienced this problem?
 Best to all,
 Kevin



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Re: [RBW] Re: Hunq's Slipping Seatpost

2015-04-29 Thread William deRosset
My Gunnars are three for three on slipping seat posts (and also 3/3 on 
chipping paint). I'm not overwhelmed by Waterford's quality.

Dear Eric,

Interesting. I've not messed with Gunnars, but I've built up/owned eight 
waterford-built products since 1998 (a Heron, two lugged road bikes, four 
TIG-welded Boulder Bicycle prototypes, and one production TIG welded 
Allroad (on the stand right now). I've never had a slipping seatpost.

Their paint has gotten better. My Waterfords chipped badly and with little 
provocation. My road-going Boulder Bicycle has done well (other than the 
chip at the top tube dent, but that had a metal beam dropped on it--not its 
fault). My Allroad is pretty chipped up, but it lives a hard life. The 1998 
Heron, finished by waterford, has tough paint.

Their frames have been straight on the frame table and have ridden fine. 
Two of the prototypes had oddities in the braze-ons (one had a visually 
crooked cantilever post, which would have been a rebuild in a production 
bike), another had an off-axis set of downtube bottle bosses, and I know 
they added a fork crown restraint to their fork fixtures practice back in 
2001, when they had a run of properly-aligned forks (i.e. the wheel sat 
right wrt the frame) with with twisted crown orientation (plays hell with 
caliper brake adjustment). I got one of the special forks from that era, 
and complained to my dealer, who got them to tighten up their spec. there. 

Best Regards,

Will
William M. deRosset
Fort Collins, CO
 

On Monday, April 27, 2015 at 6:46:33 PM UTC-6, Eric Daume wrote:

 My Gunnars are three for three on slipping seat posts (and also 3/3 on 
 chipping paint). I'm not overwhelmed by Waterford's quality.

 My Surly Cross Check's post has never slipped (and the powder cost still 
 looks great after six years)

 On Mon, Apr 27, 2015 at 6:30 PM, 'Chris Lampe 2' via RBW Owners Bunch 
 rbw-owne...@googlegroups.com javascript: wrote:

 I've heard quite a few comments about Gunnar's having problems with 
 slipping seatposts.  

 This seems like an unacceptable level of QC on Waterford's part and on 
 Rivendell's part.  If they know a percentage of a batch of Hunq's from 
 Wisconsin are out of spec, they need to be pulling every one of those 
 framesets and checking them and sending them back, at Waterford's expense.  

 I know that if I scrimped and saved long enough to buy a Rivendell and it 
 had the problems the OP's is having, I would be extremely upset.  



 On Monday, April 27, 2015 at 2:53:09 PM UTC-5, RonaTD wrote:

 It's far more likely that the frame is the problem than the seat post. 
 Classic Waterford issue. Ask me about all the 27.4 seat posts I had to buy. 

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[RBW] Re: Hunq's Slipping Seatpost

2015-04-29 Thread Ron Mc
No offense, Matt outdoor weathering neglect is the only thing that will 
fuse a seatpost and seat tube by corrosion.  Galvanic corrosion between 
aluminum and steel is a myth, and in fact, lithium in grease is great for 
steel in resisting corrosion, but Bad for aluminum.  If you need something 
other than grease to get a grip on your seatpost, you're not going to 
destroy anything by doing it.  
Licensed professional corrosion engineer.  

On Tuesday, April 28, 2015 at 11:08:37 PM UTC-5, hangtownmatt wrote:

 For as long as I can remember, grease has been applied to seat posts to 
 prevent corrosion that WILL fuse the seat post to the seat tube.  Am I the 
 only one who thinks it is a mistake to eliminate grease from this contact 
 point?

 Matt




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RE: [RBW] Re: Hunq's Slipping Seatpost

2015-04-29 Thread Allingham II, Thomas J
“chaperone nightmare” made me laugh!

From: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com 
[mailto:rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com]
Sent: Wednesday, April 29, 2015 10:18 AM
To: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com
Subject: [RBW] Re: Hunq's Slipping Seatpost

The anti slip build paste we use takes the place of grease and creates a 
barrier between the metals. For lack of better explanation, it's like grease 
with sand in it. I agree that completely bare metals dancing too close is a 
chaperone nightmare.

On Tuesday, April 28, 2015 at 10:08:37 PM UTC-6, hangtownmatt wrote:
For as long as I can remember, grease has been applied to seat posts to prevent 
corrosion that WILL fuse the seat post to the seat tube.  Am I the only one who 
thinks it is a mistake to eliminate grease from this contact point?

Matt
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[RBW] Re: Hunq's Slipping Seatpost

2015-04-29 Thread Ron Mc
again, the galvanic difference between aluminum and steel is insufficient 
to promote galvanic corrosion - the occurrence is a bike shop myth.  You 
don't need a barrier between the two metals, but a barrier between the 
metal surface and condensation.  

On Wednesday, April 29, 2015 at 9:18:17 AM UTC-5, jinxed wrote:

 The anti slip build paste we use takes the place of grease and creates a 
 barrier between the metals. For lack of better explanation, it's like 
 grease with sand in it. I agree that completely bare metals dancing too 
 close is a chaperone nightmare. 

 On Tuesday, April 28, 2015 at 10:08:37 PM UTC-6, hangtownmatt wrote:

 For as long as I can remember, grease has been applied to seat posts to 
 prevent corrosion that WILL fuse the seat post to the seat tube.  Am I the 
 only one who thinks it is a mistake to eliminate grease from this contact 
 point?

 Matt



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[RBW] Re: Hunq's Slipping Seatpost

2015-04-29 Thread Ron Mc
whatever seals out the weather solves the weathering corrosion problem

On Wednesday, April 29, 2015 at 9:46:21 AM UTC-5, Ron Mc wrote:

 again, the galvanic difference between aluminum and steel is insufficient 
 to promote galvanic corrosion - the occurrence is a bike shop myth.  You 
 don't need a barrier between the two metals, but a barrier between the 
 metal surface and condensation.  



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[RBW] Re: Hunq's Slipping Seatpost

2015-04-29 Thread 'jinxed' via RBW Owners Bunch
The anti slip build paste we use takes the place of grease and creates a 
barrier between the metals. For lack of better explanation, it's like 
grease with sand in it. I agree that completely bare metals dancing too 
close is a chaperone nightmare. 

On Tuesday, April 28, 2015 at 10:08:37 PM UTC-6, hangtownmatt wrote:

 For as long as I can remember, grease has been applied to seat posts to 
 prevent corrosion that WILL fuse the seat post to the seat tube.  Am I the 
 only one who thinks it is a mistake to eliminate grease from this contact 
 point?

 Matt


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Re: [RBW] Re: Hunq's Slipping Seatpost

2015-04-28 Thread Garth
And the fool says in their heart, there is no Perfection. 


On Monday, April 27, 2015 at 4:22:53 PM UTC-4, Steve Palincsar wrote:

  On 04/27/2015 04:12 PM, Garth wrote:
  


 On Monday, April 27, 2015 at 3:43:50 PM UTC-4, Steve Palincsar wrote: 


 No, the first and simplest thing to try is to wipe all the grease off 
 the seat post.  The second and almost as simple thing is to spray a shot 
 of hairspray on the seat post.  I have a couple of bikes that have the 
 same issue, cured in one case with the first method, and in the other 
 case with the second. 


   
 No, the simplest thing of all is that no problem ever existed ;)   Figure 
 that one out . . .  lol. 
  

 Obviously, this is what you have in mind:  
 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KsWmfljeIq0


  

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Re: [RBW] Re: Hunq's Slipping Seatpost

2015-04-28 Thread Tony DeFilippo
The used Toyo Atlantis I picked up had a supposedly Riv installed shim... Thin 
aluminum.  It was trimmed so you didn't really notice if but I always thought 
it was of.  Pretty sure that frame had a brazed on rear cable hanger.

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Re: [RBW] Re: Hunq's Slipping Seatpost

2015-04-28 Thread Kainalu
god said the path to perfection is wide, for perfection is an affront to the 
lord referring to themselves in the third persons. 
Stay pure, don't try too hard 

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[RBW] Re: Hunq's Slipping Seatpost

2015-04-28 Thread 'hangtownmatt' via RBW Owners Bunch
For as long as I can remember, grease has been applied to seat posts to 
prevent corrosion that WILL fuse the seat post to the seat tube.  Am I the 
only one who thinks it is a mistake to eliminate grease from this contact 
point?

Matt

On Monday, April 27, 2015 at 7:17:04 AM UTC-7, Kevin Lindsey wrote:

 Just finished building my Hunqapillar over the weekend and rode it 20+ 
 miles to work this morning.  Although still too early to tell, it has my 
 very favorite bike stamped all over it.
 With one possible exception:  I can't get the seatpost to stop slipping 
 down.  Despite tightening the bolt to so hard that the allen hole is 
 starting to strip, it still inches down as I ride, and we had to stop six 
 times on the ride in this morning to raise the seat back up.  Very 
 frustrating.  I had thought that maybe the brake cable hanger was 
 interfering with the seat tube somehow, but I don't see how that can be 
 avoided, given the shape of the hanger and the fact that it has to remain 
 attached to the seatpost bolt.
 Has anyone else experienced this problem?
 Best to all,
 Kevin


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[RBW] Re: Hunq's Slipping Seatpost

2015-04-27 Thread Tom Harrop
Actually, not meaning to muddy the waters here, but both of the Nitto 
binder-bolt mounted cable hangers that Riv sells interfered with seatpost 
clamping on my Bombadil. I fixed it by switching to Surly's cable hanger. 
Could also just use a smaller-diameter bolt. Is it worth a try to go around 
the block a few times with no rear brake (and no cable hanger) to see if 
that makes a difference?

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Re: [RBW] Re: Hunq's Slipping Seatpost

2015-04-27 Thread Bill Lindsay
My favorite Steve Palinscar game!  I'll play:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r3uRX8Buu88



On Monday, April 27, 2015 at 1:22:53 PM UTC-7, Steve Palincsar wrote:

  On 04/27/2015 04:12 PM, Garth wrote:
  


 On Monday, April 27, 2015 at 3:43:50 PM UTC-4, Steve Palincsar wrote: 


 No, the first and simplest thing to try is to wipe all the grease off 
 the seat post.  The second and almost as simple thing is to spray a shot 
 of hairspray on the seat post.  I have a couple of bikes that have the 
 same issue, cured in one case with the first method, and in the other 
 case with the second. 


   
 No, the simplest thing of all is that no problem ever existed ;)   Figure 
 that one out . . .  lol. 
  

 Obviously, this is what you have in mind:  
 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KsWmfljeIq0


  

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Re: [RBW] Re: Hunq's Slipping Seatpost

2015-04-27 Thread Steve Palincsar

On 04/27/2015 04:28 PM, Bill Lindsay wrote:

My favorite Steve Palinscar game!  I'll play:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r3uRX8Buu88


Good one!   Glad it's working for you. :-)


My Evil Twin PalinSCar played no role in this...






On Monday, April 27, 2015 at 1:22:53 PM UTC-7, Steve Palincsar wrote:

On 04/27/2015 04:12 PM, Garth wrote:



On Monday, April 27, 2015 at 3:43:50 PM UTC-4, Steve Palincsar
wrote:


No, the first and simplest thing to try is to wipe all the
grease off
the seat post.  The second and almost as simple thing is to
spray a shot
of hairspray on the seat post.  I have a couple of bikes that
have the
same issue, cured in one case with the first method, and in
the other
case with the second.



No, the simplest thing of all is that no problem ever existed
;)   Figure that one out . . .  lol.


Obviously, this is what you have in mind:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KsWmfljeIq0
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KsWmfljeIq0



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[RBW] Re: Hunq's Slipping Seatpost

2015-04-27 Thread Bill Lindsay
Kevin

I have several thoughts on this.  First and foremost, I will agree with the 
several responders who said you deserve to be happy and frustration-free on 
your new bike.  Now, here's a checklist.

1.  Tolerances.  As others have said, you can measure the seatpost and the 
hole in the frame to see if they both are exactly 27.2mm.  I will assume 
you don't have the tool to do that.  That's OK, the absolute measurement is 
not as important as the relative measurement, and you have what you need to 
do that.  When the bolt is loose, does the seatpost FALL down into the 
frame?  Is it noticeably rattling inside the hole?  If yes, then the 
seatpost is undersized or the frame is oversized.  If the seatpost slides 
in easily, but does not FALL in, and there is little to no discernible 
rattle, then you are fine.  

2.  Interference from the brake hanger.  There is a narrow slot between the 
ears.  That slot gets pinched when you tighten the bolt.  The brake hanger 
lives in that slot.  If it prevents the ears from being pinched together, 
then you aren't clamping your seatpost.  You are clamping your brake 
hanger.  The test for this is first try to twist your seatpost with the 
bolt tight.  If it is slipping down the way you describe, it should be 
shockingly easy to move.  Assuming that is the case, take the bolt all the 
way out to free the hanger.  Put the bolt back in and tighten it, just 
normal tightness.  Can you still twist the saddle?  If yes, move on.  If 
no, that was your problem.  Make Riv give you a new hanger that is made 
from thinner material. 

These two tests will take you about 10 minutes.  Let us know what happens 
from that.  You should not have to resort to knurling or loctite until you 
know what problem you are solving.  

Bill Lindsay

El Cerrito, CA

On Monday, April 27, 2015 at 7:17:04 AM UTC-7, Kevin Lindsey wrote:

 Just finished building my Hunqapillar over the weekend and rode it 20+ 
 miles to work this morning.  Although still too early to tell, it has my 
 very favorite bike stamped all over it.
 With one possible exception:  I can't get the seatpost to stop slipping 
 down.  Despite tightening the bolt to so hard that the allen hole is 
 starting to strip, it still inches down as I ride, and we had to stop six 
 times on the ride in this morning to raise the seat back up.  Very 
 frustrating.  I had thought that maybe the brake cable hanger was 
 interfering with the seat tube somehow, but I don't see how that can be 
 avoided, given the shape of the hanger and the fact that it has to remain 
 attached to the seatpost bolt.
 Has anyone else experienced this problem?
 Best to all,
 Kevin


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Re: [RBW] Re: Hunq's Slipping Seatpost

2015-04-27 Thread Steve Palincsar

On 04/27/2015 04:12 PM, Garth wrote:



On Monday, April 27, 2015 at 3:43:50 PM UTC-4, Steve Palincsar wrote:


No, the first and simplest thing to try is to wipe all the grease off
the seat post.  The second and almost as simple thing is to spray
a shot
of hairspray on the seat post.  I have a couple of bikes that have
the
same issue, cured in one case with the first method, and in the other
case with the second.



No, the simplest thing of all is that no problem ever existed ;)   
Figure that one out . . .  lol.


Obviously, this is what you have in mind: 
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KsWmfljeIq0



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[RBW] Re: Hunq's Slipping Seatpost

2015-04-27 Thread Tom Harrop
Snap! What Bill said... 

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[RBW] Re: Hunq's Slipping Seatpost

2015-04-27 Thread Bill Lindsay
Please please pretty please, check if you can tighten it with the cable 
hanger removed.  I'm going to have nightmares if you don't check that.  

Regarding knurling.  This is the tool that any decent shop should have:

http://1mg.me/?w=300h=300filename=JS0115.jpgf=BTI

If they have that tool, the job takes 30 seconds.  If their standard shop 
rate is $12,000 per hour, then $100 is about right.  :-)


On Monday, April 27, 2015 at 12:51:27 PM UTC-7, Kevin Lindsey wrote:

 Bill et al. -
 The seatpost is only just barely too loose.  Honestly,  I think a tin 
 can shim might be too thick to fit in there, but the difference between the 
 post outer diameter and the tube inner diameter is enough to make the post 
 gradually slide down the tube as I ride.  
 So: first thing is a stop by the friendly LBS on my way home, which has 
 some friction paste in the back for conditions just like this (also 
 recommended by Bryan).  If that doesn't work, then I may mail the post back 
 to Riv for a good knurling (I spoke to a local machine shop, which quoted 
 me about $100 to knurl the post; at that rate, it'd be cheaper to buy a 
 Thomson post, instead).
 Yes, it's a bit irritating to have a problem like this on what seems 
 otherwise to be a masterpiece of a bike.  However, as a former parent of 
 two teenagers, I've learned to be understanding; these things happen.
 Kevin

 On Monday, April 27, 2015 at 3:41:25 PM UTC-4, Tom Harrop wrote:

 Actually, not meaning to muddy the waters here, but both of the Nitto 
 binder-bolt mounted cable hangers that Riv sells interfered with seatpost 
 clamping on my Bombadil. I fixed it by switching to Surly's cable hanger. 
 Could also just use a smaller-diameter bolt. Is it worth a try to go around 
 the block a few times with no rear brake (and no cable hanger) to see if 
 that makes a difference?



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Re: [RBW] Re: Hunq's Slipping Seatpost

2015-04-27 Thread Garth


On Monday, April 27, 2015 at 3:43:50 PM UTC-4, Steve Palincsar wrote:


 No, the first and simplest thing to try is to wipe all the grease off 
 the seat post.  The second and almost as simple thing is to spray a shot 
 of hairspray on the seat post.  I have a couple of bikes that have the 
 same issue, cured in one case with the first method, and in the other 
 case with the second. 


  
No, the simplest thing of all is that no problem ever existed ;)   Figure 
that one out . . .  lol. 

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[RBW] Re: Hunq's Slipping Seatpost

2015-04-27 Thread Kevin Lindsey
Bill et al. -
The seatpost is only just barely too loose.  Honestly,  I think a tin 
can shim might be too thick to fit in there, but the difference between the 
post outer diameter and the tube inner diameter is enough to make the post 
gradually slide down the tube as I ride.  
So: first thing is a stop by the friendly LBS on my way home, which has 
some friction paste in the back for conditions just like this (also 
recommended by Bryan).  If that doesn't work, then I may mail the post back 
to Riv for a good knurling (I spoke to a local machine shop, which quoted 
me about $100 to knurl the post; at that rate, it'd be cheaper to buy a 
Thomson post, instead).
Yes, it's a bit irritating to have a problem like this on what seems 
otherwise to be a masterpiece of a bike.  However, as a former parent of 
two teenagers, I've learned to be understanding; these things happen.
Kevin

On Monday, April 27, 2015 at 3:41:25 PM UTC-4, Tom Harrop wrote:

 Actually, not meaning to muddy the waters here, but both of the Nitto 
 binder-bolt mounted cable hangers that Riv sells interfered with seatpost 
 clamping on my Bombadil. I fixed it by switching to Surly's cable hanger. 
 Could also just use a smaller-diameter bolt. Is it worth a try to go around 
 the block a few times with no rear brake (and no cable hanger) to see if 
 that makes a difference?


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[RBW] Re: Hunq's Slipping Seatpost

2015-04-27 Thread Bill Lindsay
Yes, the Surly one is the thinnest.  The aluminum cheap ones are the 
thickest and the least reliable in part to part variation.  

On Monday, April 27, 2015 at 12:42:47 PM UTC-7, Tom Harrop wrote:

 Snap! What Bill said... 


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Re: [RBW] Re: Hunq's Slipping Seatpost

2015-04-27 Thread Steve Palincsar

On 04/27/2015 03:14 PM, Garth wrote:
After reading your replies Kevin, a new seatpost would be the first 
and simplest thing to try.


No, the first and simplest thing to try is to wipe all the grease off 
the seat post.  The second and almost as simple thing is to spray a shot 
of hairspray on the seat post.  I have a couple of bikes that have the 
same issue, cured in one case with the first method, and in the other 
case with the second.




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[RBW] Re: Hunq's Slipping Seatpost

2015-04-27 Thread Jon in the foothills of Central Colorado


I had the same problem with my Sam.

I used a piece of aluminum shim stock or you could use a piece of coke can 
trimmed about 1 wide x the circumference of the post. .Also there are 
collars out there that you can put around your seat post to keep it from 
slipping..
Worst case scenario is to take your seat post to a machine shop and have 
them lightly knurl the area on the seat post that is clamped.
It's frustrating I know.
Hope one of these suggestions helps.
Jon  

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[RBW] Re: Hunq's Slipping Seatpost

2015-04-27 Thread Ron Mc
My Moser was so bad about this I found an old Campy Super Record quill post 
and solved the problem.  One possible approach you might take is use Green 
Loctite (609)

On Monday, April 27, 2015 at 9:17:04 AM UTC-5, Kevin Lindsey wrote:

 Just finished building my Hunqapillar over the weekend and rode it 20+ 
 miles to work this morning.  Although still too early to tell, it has my 
 very favorite bike stamped all over it.
 With one possible exception:  I can't get the seatpost to stop slipping 
 down.  Despite tightening the bolt to so hard that the allen hole is 
 starting to strip, it still inches down as I ride, and we had to stop six 
 times on the ride in this morning to raise the seat back up.  Very 
 frustrating.  I had thought that maybe the brake cable hanger was 
 interfering with the seat tube somehow, but I don't see how that can be 
 avoided, given the shape of the hanger and the fact that it has to remain 
 attached to the seatpost bolt.
 Has anyone else experienced this problem?
 Best to all,
 Kevin


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[RBW] Re: Hunq's Slipping Seatpost

2015-04-27 Thread 'Chris Lampe 2' via RBW Owners Bunch
I've heard quite a few comments about Gunnar's having problems with 
slipping seatposts.  

This seems like an unacceptable level of QC on Waterford's part and on 
Rivendell's part.  If they know a percentage of a batch of Hunq's from 
Wisconsin are out of spec, they need to be pulling every one of those 
framesets and checking them and sending them back, at Waterford's expense.  

I know that if I scrimped and saved long enough to buy a Rivendell and it 
had the problems the OP's is having, I would be extremely upset.  



On Monday, April 27, 2015 at 2:53:09 PM UTC-5, RonaTD wrote:

 It's far more likely that the frame is the problem than the seat post. 
 Classic Waterford issue. Ask me about all the 27.4 seat posts I had to buy. 

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Re: [RBW] Re: Hunq's Slipping Seatpost

2015-04-27 Thread Eric Daume
My Gunnars are three for three on slipping seat posts (and also 3/3 on
chipping paint). I'm not overwhelmed by Waterford's quality.

My Surly Cross Check's post has never slipped (and the powder cost still
looks great after six years)

On Mon, Apr 27, 2015 at 6:30 PM, 'Chris Lampe 2' via RBW Owners Bunch 
rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com wrote:

 I've heard quite a few comments about Gunnar's having problems with
 slipping seatposts.

 This seems like an unacceptable level of QC on Waterford's part and on
 Rivendell's part.  If they know a percentage of a batch of Hunq's from
 Wisconsin are out of spec, they need to be pulling every one of those
 framesets and checking them and sending them back, at Waterford's expense.

 I know that if I scrimped and saved long enough to buy a Rivendell and it
 had the problems the OP's is having, I would be extremely upset.



 On Monday, April 27, 2015 at 2:53:09 PM UTC-5, RonaTD wrote:

 It's far more likely that the frame is the problem than the seat post.
 Classic Waterford issue. Ask me about all the 27.4 seat posts I had to buy.

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Re: [RBW] Re: Hunq's Slipping Seatpost

2015-04-27 Thread Patrick Moore
Isn't it nice to go into a roadie or mtb thrasher shop and discover
that the crew love your old bikes? I'm glad that the problem was so easily
solved (and that it seems not to be a frame quality problem).

There is a high end bike shop a couple of miles from my mother's house
which I used to frequent, since I spent so much time with her. They sell
high end carbon fiber road and off road bikes -- Cervelos and such. But
when I brought my Sam Hill, various Riv customs, '58 Rene Herse, Ken
Rogers, and even my '84 Citroen Acadiane by, they all loved them. No sneers
at all, at all.

On Mon, Apr 27, 2015 at 7:42 PM, Kevin Lindsey lindsey.ke...@gmail.com
wrote:

 Problem resolved (for now).
 The seatpost refusing to cooperate on my commute home, I stopped at Bike
 Pro, a very high-end bike shop in Georgetown at the foot of Key Bridge, to
 see if they had any friction paste that would at least hold the post in
 place until I got home.  Mind you, this is one of those establishments
 where you go to drop $10,000 on an S-Works, Project One, etc., so I wasn't
 expecting much of a reception with a Riv under tow.  I walked my bike in
 the front door and there, leaning against the far wall was...
 ...the only other Hunqapillar living in the D.C. area .  Talk in the shop
 stopped when I came in (the only thing missing was the sound of a
 scratching record) and one of the salespeople walked quickly to the back of
 the shop to fetch the tech, Keith, owner of the other Hunq, who also
 couldn't believe that a near-twin of his bike had just come into the shop.
  (To those not of the east coast, where Rivs are rarely seen, this was a
 coincidence of near astronomical proportions.)
 Long story short, he pulled the seatpost and confirmed that the tolerances
 were a bit loose, but that the chief culprit was the brake hanger, which
 was blocking the seat tube from tightening all the way.  He dremeled about
 1/16th of an inch from the tube slot, which allowed it to tighten
 sufficiently, applied a liberal helping of friction paste, and reset the
 post.  It seems to have done the trick; at least, the seat stayed in place
 for the remainder of my 15 miles home.
 To find a tech who's also a Hunq owner clearly showed the hand of God (a
 welcome sign in these uncertain times) :)
 Kevin

 On Monday, April 27, 2015 at 8:46:33 PM UTC-4, Eric Daume wrote:

 My Gunnars are three for three on slipping seat posts (and also 3/3 on
 chipping paint). I'm not overwhelmed by Waterford's quality.

 My Surly Cross Check's post has never slipped (and the powder cost still
 looks great after six years)

 On Mon, Apr 27, 2015 at 6:30 PM, 'Chris Lampe 2' via RBW Owners Bunch 
 rbw-owne...@googlegroups.com wrote:

 I've heard quite a few comments about Gunnar's having problems with
 slipping seatposts.

 This seems like an unacceptable level of QC on Waterford's part and on
 Rivendell's part.  If they know a percentage of a batch of Hunq's from
 Wisconsin are out of spec, they need to be pulling every one of those
 framesets and checking them and sending them back, at Waterford's expense.

 I know that if I scrimped and saved long enough to buy a Rivendell and
 it had the problems the OP's is having, I would be extremely upset.



 On Monday, April 27, 2015 at 2:53:09 PM UTC-5, RonaTD wrote:

 It's far more likely that the frame is the problem than the seat post.
 Classic Waterford issue. Ask me about all the 27.4 seat posts I had to buy.

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Re: [RBW] Re: Hunq's Slipping Seatpost

2015-04-27 Thread James Warren
Amazing story.

And now as you get the joy of the Hunqapillar without that one irritation. I 
predict your fun on the bike quickly makes this whole topic vanish.

My theory is that that's why the slipping seatpost thing often gets a pass. 
Anytime I've had it, solutions came quickly, and then I quickly forgot that it 
worried me.

But the supernatural way your solution came is eerie this time.

Go back to the shop tomorrow, and you'll hear them say, Keith the mechanic. We 
don't have any Keith working here...


Sent from my iPhone

On Apr 27, 2015, at 6:42 PM, Kevin Lindsey lindsey.ke...@gmail.com wrote:

 Problem resolved (for now).
 The seatpost refusing to cooperate on my commute home, I stopped at Bike 
 Pro, a very high-end bike shop in Georgetown at the foot of Key Bridge, to 
 see if they had any friction paste that would at least hold the post in place 
 until I got home.  Mind you, this is one of those establishments where you go 
 to drop $10,000 on an S-Works, Project One, etc., so I wasn't expecting much 
 of a reception with a Riv under tow.  I walked my bike in the front door and 
 there, leaning against the far wall was...
 ...the only other Hunqapillar living in the D.C. area .  Talk in the shop 
 stopped when I came in (the only thing missing was the sound of a scratching 
 record) and one of the salespeople walked quickly to the back of the shop to 
 fetch the tech, Keith, owner of the other Hunq, who also couldn't believe 
 that a near-twin of his bike had just come into the shop.  (To those not of 
 the east coast, where Rivs are rarely seen, this was a coincidence of near 
 astronomical proportions.)
 Long story short, he pulled the seatpost and confirmed that the tolerances 
 were a bit loose, but that the chief culprit was the brake hanger, which was 
 blocking the seat tube from tightening all the way.  He dremeled about 1/16th 
 of an inch from the tube slot, which allowed it to tighten sufficiently, 
 applied a liberal helping of friction paste, and reset the post.  It seems to 
 have done the trick; at least, the seat stayed in place for the remainder of 
 my 15 miles home.
 To find a tech who's also a Hunq owner clearly showed the hand of God (a 
 welcome sign in these uncertain times) :)
 Kevin
 
 On Monday, April 27, 2015 at 8:46:33 PM UTC-4, Eric Daume wrote:
 My Gunnars are three for three on slipping seat posts (and also 3/3 on 
 chipping paint). I'm not overwhelmed by Waterford's quality.
 
 My Surly Cross Check's post has never slipped (and the powder cost still 
 looks great after six years)
 
 On Mon, Apr 27, 2015 at 6:30 PM, 'Chris Lampe 2' via RBW Owners Bunch 
 rbw-owne...@googlegroups.com wrote:
 I've heard quite a few comments about Gunnar's having problems with slipping 
 seatposts.  
 
 This seems like an unacceptable level of QC on Waterford's part and on 
 Rivendell's part.  If they know a percentage of a batch of Hunq's from 
 Wisconsin are out of spec, they need to be pulling every one of those 
 framesets and checking them and sending them back, at Waterford's expense.  
 
 I know that if I scrimped and saved long enough to buy a Rivendell and it had 
 the problems the OP's is having, I would be extremely upset.  
 
 
 
 On Monday, April 27, 2015 at 2:53:09 PM UTC-5, RonaTD wrote:
 It's far more likely that the frame is the problem than the seat post. 
 Classic Waterford issue. Ask me about all the 27.4 seat posts I had to buy.
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Re: [RBW] Re: Hunq's Slipping Seatpost

2015-04-27 Thread Kevin Lindsey
Problem resolved (for now).
The seatpost refusing to cooperate on my commute home, I stopped at Bike 
Pro, a very high-end bike shop in Georgetown at the foot of Key Bridge, to 
see if they had any friction paste that would at least hold the post in 
place until I got home.  Mind you, this is one of those establishments 
where you go to drop $10,000 on an S-Works, Project One, etc., so I wasn't 
expecting much of a reception with a Riv under tow.  I walked my bike in 
the front door and there, leaning against the far wall was...
...the only other Hunqapillar living in the D.C. area .  Talk in the shop 
stopped when I came in (the only thing missing was the sound of a 
scratching record) and one of the salespeople walked quickly to the back of 
the shop to fetch the tech, Keith, owner of the other Hunq, who also 
couldn't believe that a near-twin of his bike had just come into the shop. 
 (To those not of the east coast, where Rivs are rarely seen, this was a 
coincidence of near astronomical proportions.)
Long story short, he pulled the seatpost and confirmed that the tolerances 
were a bit loose, but that the chief culprit was the brake hanger, which 
was blocking the seat tube from tightening all the way.  He dremeled about 
1/16th of an inch from the tube slot, which allowed it to tighten 
sufficiently, applied a liberal helping of friction paste, and reset the 
post.  It seems to have done the trick; at least, the seat stayed in place 
for the remainder of my 15 miles home.
To find a tech who's also a Hunq owner clearly showed the hand of God (a 
welcome sign in these uncertain times) :)
Kevin

On Monday, April 27, 2015 at 8:46:33 PM UTC-4, Eric Daume wrote:

 My Gunnars are three for three on slipping seat posts (and also 3/3 on 
 chipping paint). I'm not overwhelmed by Waterford's quality.

 My Surly Cross Check's post has never slipped (and the powder cost still 
 looks great after six years)

 On Mon, Apr 27, 2015 at 6:30 PM, 'Chris Lampe 2' via RBW Owners Bunch 
 rbw-owne...@googlegroups.com javascript: wrote:

 I've heard quite a few comments about Gunnar's having problems with 
 slipping seatposts.  

 This seems like an unacceptable level of QC on Waterford's part and on 
 Rivendell's part.  If they know a percentage of a batch of Hunq's from 
 Wisconsin are out of spec, they need to be pulling every one of those 
 framesets and checking them and sending them back, at Waterford's expense.  

 I know that if I scrimped and saved long enough to buy a Rivendell and it 
 had the problems the OP's is having, I would be extremely upset.  



 On Monday, April 27, 2015 at 2:53:09 PM UTC-5, RonaTD wrote:

 It's far more likely that the frame is the problem than the seat post. 
 Classic Waterford issue. Ask me about all the 27.4 seat posts I had to buy. 

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Re: [RBW] Re: Hunq's Slipping Seatpost

2015-04-27 Thread cyclotourist
My Rockhound is a touch loose as well. I have to really crank down the
collar till the ears are touching. And paint is chippy.

On Mon, Apr 27, 2015 at 5:46 PM, Eric Daume ericda...@gmail.com wrote:

 My Gunnars are three for three on slipping seat posts (and also 3/3 on
 chipping paint). I'm not overwhelmed by Waterford's quality.

 My Surly Cross Check's post has never slipped (and the powder cost still
 looks great after six years)

 On Mon, Apr 27, 2015 at 6:30 PM, 'Chris Lampe 2' via RBW Owners Bunch 
 rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com wrote:

 I've heard quite a few comments about Gunnar's having problems with
 slipping seatposts.

 This seems like an unacceptable level of QC on Waterford's part and on
 Rivendell's part.  If they know a percentage of a batch of Hunq's from
 Wisconsin are out of spec, they need to be pulling every one of those
 framesets and checking them and sending them back, at Waterford's expense.

 I know that if I scrimped and saved long enough to buy a Rivendell and it
 had the problems the OP's is having, I would be extremely upset.



 On Monday, April 27, 2015 at 2:53:09 PM UTC-5, RonaTD wrote:

 It's far more likely that the frame is the problem than the seat post.
 Classic Waterford issue. Ask me about all the 27.4 seat posts I had to buy.

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[RBW] Re: Hunq's Slipping Seatpost

2015-04-27 Thread Garth
Have you called someone at Riv who knows the ins and outs of these frames 
like Mark about this ?   

You may be able to file down the hanger you have very slightly to reduce 
it's thickness, if this is possible . I don't know which one they use and 
how thick it is so take this suggestion slightly. 

Surly also makes a cable hanger for the rear but I can't say it's any 
thinner . 

An alternative brake hanger altogether could be a Paul Funky Monkey 
seatpost mounted cable hanger . 


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[RBW] Re: Hunq's Slipping Seatpost

2015-04-27 Thread Kevin Lindsey
I plan to call Riv as soon as they open.  Given that this is a stock frame, 
and that I'm using a stock hanger and the seat post they recommend, I'm 
hoping that it's not a mechanical problem, but something I'm doing wrong.  
Otherwise, as I said, it's a terrific bike.
Kevin

On Monday, April 27, 2015 at 11:31:17 AM UTC-4, Garth wrote:

 Have you called someone at Riv who knows the ins and outs of these frames 
 like Mark about this ?   

 You may be able to file down the hanger you have very slightly to reduce 
 it's thickness, if this is possible . I don't know which one they use and 
 how thick it is so take this suggestion slightly. 

 Surly also makes a cable hanger for the rear but I can't say it's any 
 thinner . 

 An alternative brake hanger altogether could be a Paul Funky Monkey 
 seatpost mounted cable hanger . 




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Re: [RBW] Re: Hunq's Slipping Seatpost

2015-04-27 Thread Kevin Lindsey
Just off the phone with Bryan at Riv.  He thought it might be a problem 
with the Waterford frame; apparently, the folks at Waterford get a bit 
sloppy with the tolerances.  His suggested choices are to use a Thompson 
seatpost instead of the Nitto or, as Bruce suggested, send the post back to 
Riv and they'll knurl it.  Unfortunately, the latter will take my Hunq out 
of circulation for 2-3 weeks; before I consider that, I'll check out the 
Thompson posts and see if there's a local machine shop that'll do my Nitto.
Sigh.  Nothing's easy.
Kevin


On Monday, April 27, 2015 at 12:59:18 PM UTC-4, Bruce Smitham wrote:

 I had the same situation with my Sam Hillborne. I called Brian at Riv and 
 they were able to knurl the seatpost. Problem solved. You can have a 
 machine shop do it but I struggled to find that in San Diego.

 Good luck,

 Bruce

 On Monday, April 27, 2015 at 9:31:21 AM UTC-7, James Warren wrote:


 I'm surprised to hear this. Put calipers on the Nitto then.


 On Apr 27, 2015, at 9:24 AM, cyclot...@gmail.com wrote:

 Someone else was recently complaining about Nitto seat posts not being to 
 spec. Better that than the seat *tube *ID

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Re: [RBW] Re: Hunq's Slipping Seatpost

2015-04-27 Thread Kevin Lindsey
Yep.  As Riv recommended, I installed a Nitto S65 Crystal Fellow 27.2 x 250 
seat 
post.  
Kevin



On Monday, April 27, 2015 at 12:31:21 PM UTC-4, James Warren wrote:


 I'm surprised to hear this. Put calipers on the Nitto then.


 On Apr 27, 2015, at 9:24 AM, cyclot...@gmail.com javascript: wrote:

 Someone else was recently complaining about Nitto seat posts not being to 
 spec. Better that than the seat *tube *ID

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[RBW] Re: Hunq's Slipping Seatpost

2015-04-27 Thread drew
i sort of doubt the hanger is the problem. seems like it should be clamping 
firmly before squeezing into the hanger. at any rate, the stock one they 
send is not great. the surly one is a bit longer which allows less kinking 
of the cable, and the loop that goes around the binder bolt is much 
narrower. 

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Re: [RBW] Re: Hunq's Slipping Seatpost

2015-04-27 Thread James Warren

I'm surprised to hear this. Put calipers on the Nitto then.


On Apr 27, 2015, at 9:24 AM, cyclotour...@gmail.com wrote:

 Someone else was recently complaining about Nitto seat posts not being to 
 spec. Better that than the seat tube ID
 
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Re: [RBW] Re: Hunq's Slipping Seatpost

2015-04-27 Thread Bruce Smitham
I had the same situation with my Sam Hillborne. I called Brian at Riv and 
they were able to knurl the seatpost. Problem solved. You can have a 
machine shop do it but I struggled to find that in San Diego.

Good luck,

Bruce

On Monday, April 27, 2015 at 9:31:21 AM UTC-7, James Warren wrote:


 I'm surprised to hear this. Put calipers on the Nitto then.


 On Apr 27, 2015, at 9:24 AM, cyclot...@gmail.com javascript: wrote:

 Someone else was recently complaining about Nitto seat posts not being to 
 spec. Better that than the seat *tube *ID

 -- 
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 James Warren
 jimcw...@earthlink.net javascript:

 - 700x33





  


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[RBW] Re: Hunq's Slipping Seatpost

2015-04-27 Thread cyclotour...@gmail.com
Someone else was recently complaining about Nitto seat posts not being to 
spec. Better that than the seat *tube *ID

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Re: [RBW] Re: Hunq's Slipping Seatpost

2015-04-27 Thread Patrick Moore
I've used blue Loctite to solve this same problem, though I hear that the
green is made for it. Wipe grease off post, smear liberally, re-install,
wala! This on an undersized post that sank about 1 per 5 miles despite
overtightening the bolt and distorting the ears.

On Mon, Apr 27, 2015 at 11:18 AM, 'jinxed' via RBW Owners Bunch 
rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com wrote:

 Before doing any un-reversable mods like knurling, I would seriously give
 this stuff a try:

 http://www.tacx.com/en/products/tools/carbon-assembly-compound

 YES, it's for carbon. NO your Rivendell will not explode if you use it.
 Clean the post and frame best you can to rid it of the grease. Apply this
 stuff, and go ride. I've had excellent luck with it and have started using
 it instead of grease.

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Re: [RBW] Re: Hunq's Slipping Seatpost

2015-04-27 Thread Ron Mc
Thomson was what was slipping so bad on my Moser

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v728/bulldog1935/Raleigh/F%20Moser/post.jpg

I would send the post back to Bryan for knurling


On Monday, April 27, 2015 at 12:12:22 PM UTC-5, Kevin Lindsey wrote:

 Just off the phone with Bryan at Riv.  He thought it might be a problem 
 with the Waterford frame; apparently, the folks at Waterford get a bit 
 sloppy with the tolerances.  His suggested choices are to use a Thompson 
 seatpost instead of the Nitto or, as Bruce suggested, send the post back to 
 Riv and they'll knurl it.  Unfortunately, the latter will take my Hunq out 
 of circulation for 2-3 weeks; before I consider that, I'll check out the 
 Thompson posts and see if there's a local machine shop that'll do my Nitto.
 Sigh.  Nothing's easy.
 Kevin


 On Monday, April 27, 2015 at 12:59:18 PM UTC-4, Bruce Smitham wrote:

 I had the same situation with my Sam Hillborne. I called Brian at Riv and 
 they were able to knurl the seatpost. Problem solved. You can have a 
 machine shop do it but I struggled to find that in San Diego.

 Good luck,

 Bruce

 On Monday, April 27, 2015 at 9:31:21 AM UTC-7, James Warren wrote:


 I'm surprised to hear this. Put calipers on the Nitto then.


 On Apr 27, 2015, at 9:24 AM, cyclot...@gmail.com wrote:

 Someone else was recently complaining about Nitto seat posts not being 
 to spec. Better that than the seat *tube *ID

 -- 
 You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google 
 Groups RBW Owners Bunch group.
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 Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch.
 For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.


 James Warren
 jimcw...@earthlink.net

 - 700x33





  


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[RBW] Re: Hunq's Slipping Seatpost

2015-04-27 Thread 'jinxed' via RBW Owners Bunch
Before doing any un-reversable mods like knurling, I would seriously give 
this stuff a try:

http://www.tacx.com/en/products/tools/carbon-assembly-compound

YES, it's for carbon. NO your Rivendell will not explode if you use it.
Clean the post and frame best you can to rid it of the grease. Apply this 
stuff, and go ride. I've had excellent luck with it and have started using 
it instead of grease.

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[RBW] Re: Hunq's Slipping Seatpost

2015-04-27 Thread Ron Mc
agree, that looks like the first product to try 

On Monday, April 27, 2015 at 12:18:21 PM UTC-5, jinxed wrote:

 Before doing any un-reversable mods like knurling, I would seriously give 
 this stuff a try:

 http://www.tacx.com/en/products/tools/carbon-assembly-compound

 YES, it's for carbon. NO your Rivendell will not explode if you use it.
 Clean the post and frame best you can to rid it of the grease. Apply this 
 stuff, and go ride. I've had excellent luck with it and have started using 
 it instead of grease.



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Re: [RBW] Re: Hunq's Slipping Seatpost

2015-04-27 Thread cyclotour...@gmail.com
https://groups.google.com/forum/#!searchin/rbw-owners-bunch/nitto$20slipping/rbw-owners-bunch/GGghYqGbNkE/FJrTPERosOYJ
 

On Monday, April 27, 2015 at 9:31:21 AM UTC-7, James Warren wrote:


 I'm surprised to hear this. Put calipers on the Nitto then.


 On Apr 27, 2015, at 9:24 AM, cyclot...@gmail.com javascript: wrote:

 Someone else was recently complaining about Nitto seat posts not being to 
 spec. Better that than the seat *tube *ID

 -- 
 You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups 
 RBW Owners Bunch group.
 To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an 
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 javascript:.
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 For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.


 James Warren
 jimcw...@earthlink.net javascript:

 - 700x33





  


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Re: [RBW] Re: Hunq's Slipping Seatpost

2015-04-27 Thread DS
I had this issue as well w/ my Hunqapillar I bought new last year and have 
a thread somewhere on here on it. I ended up just replacing the seatpost 
binder nut, I think I tightened the previous one too much. Haven't had the 
issue since. But I also talked to Bryan and he mentioned bringing in the 
seatpost to knurl it, I still keep meaning too but haven't done it yet as 
the slippage stopped. 

On Monday, April 27, 2015 at 10:12:22 AM UTC-7, Kevin Lindsey wrote:

 Just off the phone with Bryan at Riv.  He thought it might be a problem 
 with the Waterford frame; apparently, the folks at Waterford get a bit 
 sloppy with the tolerances.  His suggested choices are to use a Thompson 
 seatpost instead of the Nitto or, as Bruce suggested, send the post back to 
 Riv and they'll knurl it.  Unfortunately, the latter will take my Hunq out 
 of circulation for 2-3 weeks; before I consider that, I'll check out the 
 Thompson posts and see if there's a local machine shop that'll do my Nitto.
 Sigh.  Nothing's easy.
 Kevin


 On Monday, April 27, 2015 at 12:59:18 PM UTC-4, Bruce Smitham wrote:

 I had the same situation with my Sam Hillborne. I called Brian at Riv and 
 they were able to knurl the seatpost. Problem solved. You can have a 
 machine shop do it but I struggled to find that in San Diego.

 Good luck,

 Bruce

 On Monday, April 27, 2015 at 9:31:21 AM UTC-7, James Warren wrote:


 I'm surprised to hear this. Put calipers on the Nitto then.


 On Apr 27, 2015, at 9:24 AM, cyclot...@gmail.com wrote:

 Someone else was recently complaining about Nitto seat posts not being 
 to spec. Better that than the seat *tube *ID

 -- 
 You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google 
 Groups RBW Owners Bunch group.
 To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send 
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 To post to this group, send email to rbw-owne...@googlegroups.com.
 Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch.
 For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.


 James Warren
 jimcw...@earthlink.net

 - 700x33





  


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[RBW] Re: Hunq's Slipping Seatpost

2015-04-27 Thread Garth
After reading your replies Kevin, a new seatpost would be the first and 
simplest thing to try.  If you want to measure your Nitto first to know if 
it's the issue , get a cheap pair of digital calipers from Amazon or Harbor 
Freight. Don't store them with the battery installed , it runs the battery 
down. 

I used to be all wacky about even silver posts . . lol .  . . then I tried 
a Salsa Shaft, (2 bolt,no longer made), that was so darn easy to adjust 
that I dumped my beloved Campy post !  That it was black color does not 
bother me in the least anymore . The bead blast type finish on it makes it 
anything but easy like a slick silver one , it really sticks !   My point 
being, there is more to good parts than Nitto or Campy or any brand .  

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