[RBW] Re: Riv frames work great with drop bars

2010-05-08 Thread happyriding
On May 5, 3:53 pm, Grant Petersen gr...@rivbike.com wrote:
  It seems to me that because of the long top tubes most of Rivendells
  frames are not designed for drop bars.  With the long top tubes you
  need bars that come back towards you to provide a comfortable reach.


Not here.  I've read that article several times in the past.

 UnSo! Terribly, terrifically unso.

 The Top Tube Ruse in RR--40/ 41? talked all about that, but I realize people
 come and go and land late and may skip over or miss, but basically, it's
 like this. Forgive lack of detail in these explanations:

 Shallow seat tubes neutralize long top tubes. We have shallow seat tubes.


Shallow seat tube angles may somewhat reduce the effective top tube
length--but they certainly don't neutralize the long top tubes found
on the larger Rivendell bikes.  For every one degree
shallower(=smaller numerically) the seat tube angle is on a Rivendell
frame compared to someone's current bike, the Rivendell frame will
reduce the effective top tube length by approximately 1 cm.   For
instance, if someone has a road bike that has a 73 degree seat tube
angle, a Rivendell frame with a 72 degree seat tube angle will reduce
the effective top tube length by 1 cm.


 Higher bars super-'eutralize long top tubes. We're the Cosmos champs in that
 cat.

 As bars get higher, your arms become more horizontal, and that makes them
 longer (effectively, not literally).


Well, intuitively that doesn't seem like it would make a very big
difference over the short distances involved when raising a stem.  And
my calculations verify that the longer arm effect is trivial.  For
example, if I buy an A. Homer Hilsen and I raise my bars 4 cm higher
than on my current bike in order to get the bars even with the top of
the saddle, how will my reach to the bars be affected?  There are two
effects:

a) Raising the stem height will bring the bars closer to me by some
horizontal distance. By how much?  With a 72.5 degree head tube on the
Hilsen, if I raise the stem 4 cm the bars will get 1.20 cm closer to
me.  However if I buy a set of Nitto Noodle handlebars, they have 1 cm
more reach than every road bar listed at Colorado Cyclist (including
the bars on my road bike).  So raising the stem height in conjunction
with using Nitto Noodle bars on the Hilsen means the bars will only
get .20 cm closer to me.

In addition, if I just raise the bars 4 cm on my current road bike
which has a 73.5 cm head tube angle, the bars will get 1.14 cm closer
to me.  The Hilsen can only do .06 cm better.  And with the Nitto
Noodle bars on the Hilsen adding 1 cm of reach, the bars on the Hilsen
will actually be .94 cm further away from me than if I had just raised
the bars on my road bike.  That is not the direction I want to go in.

b) Rivendell reader #41 points out that as the bars get higher your
arms get longer (effectively).  But by how much?  If you wear a size
44 coat (longish arms), and you raise the bars 4cm, my calculations
show that your arms will effectively get longer by .06 cm.  If you
have shorter arms, say size 22 coat (impossibly stubby arms), you can
double that--your arms will effectively get longer by .13 cm.

A 67 cm A. Homer Hilsen has a 65 cm effective top tube.  My current
road bike has a 62 cm horizontal top tube.  I would like to try a
shorter reach and a more upright position to see if that will cure the
lower back and shoulder/neck fatigue I suffer on long rides. How am I
supposed to neutralize the 65 cm top tube on the A. Homer Hilsen?  I
don't understand how any of the things you mentioned accomplishes
that.

Ideally, I would like to ride a frame with only a fistful of seatpost
showing and the bars even with the top of the saddle.  I think when
only a fistful of seatpost is showing that indicates an expanded
frame or a frame designed with an upright position in mind.  According
to my opinion, when a high rise stem is needed to get the bars even
with the top of the saddle, that is an indication that the frame is
sized just like every other road bike sold today.

Thanks for reading,

happy



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[RBW] Re: Riv frames work great with drop bars

2010-05-08 Thread happyriding
Whoops.  It looks like the top of my post got bungled.  Here is what
it should look like:

On May 5, 3:53 pm, Grant Petersen gr...@rivbike.com wrote:
  It seems to me that because of the long top tubes most of Rivendells
  frames are not designed for drop bars.  With the long top tubes you
  need bars that come back towards you to provide a comfortable reach.

 UnSo! Terribly, terrifically unso.

 The Top Tube Ruse in RR--40/ 41? talked all about that, but I realize people
 come and go and land late and may skip over or miss,

Not here.  I've read that article several times in the past.


 Shallow seat tubes neutralize long top tubes. We have shallow seat tubes.


Shallow seat tube angles may somewhat reduce the effective top tube
length--but they certainly don't neutralize the long top tubes found
on Rivendell bikes.  For every one degree shallower(=smaller
numerically) the seat tube angle is on a Rivendell frame compared to
someone's current bike, the Rivendell frame will reduce the effective
top tube length by approximately 1 cm.   For instance, if someone has
a road bike that has a 73 degree seat tube angle, a Rivendell frame
with a 72 degree seat tube angle will reduce the effective top tube
length by 1 cm.

...
...
...

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Re: [RBW] Re: Riv frames work great with drop bars

2010-05-08 Thread PATRICK MOORE
For 15 years I have manfully resisted the don't worry about tt, st angle
and bar height compensate message from Grant. I asked for a 56-57 cm c-c tt
on my customs and set them up with 8 cm stems and bars 4-5 cm below saddle;
very, very nice. Then I got, seriatim, a medium (17!!) Monocog 29er with a,
what, 24 c-c tt and, a couple of years later, just a couple of months ago,
a 56 cm Sam Hill, with (gad!) a 59 cm tt and (gad!) a 10 cm stem.

I simply raised the bars. On the Monocog they are a good 2-3 cm above the
saddle; on the SH they are about 1 cm above the saddle.

Result? Very nice, and on those two bikes I can ride in the hooks almost
indefinitely, while with the other Rivs and other bikes (8 cm stems, bars 5
cm below saddle) the hooks are wonderful for 5 miles and tolerable for 10
miles (at my usual 25 mph cruising speed).

Conclusion? For bikes on which I want higher bars -- off road, Monocog;
touring, SH -- long tt and high bars are just fine. For fixed gear, urban,
short (30 miles or less) rides, which makes up most of my riding, and the
headwinds we have in high desert, no tree Albuquerque (the horizon is always
80 miles away), I'd insist on a shorter tt.

YM may, will, nay, ineluctibly must vary.

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Re: [RBW] Re: Riv frames work great with drop bars

2010-05-08 Thread PATRICK MOORE
The point of my post (point? point? we don't need no stinking point!) is
that experimentum trumps theoria every time.

On Sat, May 8, 2010 at 1:54 PM, PATRICK MOORE bertin...@gmail.com wrote:

 For 15 years I have manfully resisted the don't worry about tt, st angle
 and bar height compensate message from Grant. I asked for a 56-57 cm c-c tt
 on my customs and set them up with 8 cm stems and bars 4-5 cm below saddle;
 very, very nice. Then I got, seriatim, a medium (17!!) Monocog 29er with a,
 what, 24 c-c tt and, a couple of years later, just a couple of months ago,
 a 56 cm Sam Hill, with (gad!) a 59 cm tt and (gad!) a 10 cm stem.

 I simply raised the bars. On the Monocog they are a good 2-3 cm above the
 saddle; on the SH they are about 1 cm above the saddle.

 Result? Very nice, and on those two bikes I can ride in the hooks almost
 indefinitely, while with the other Rivs and other bikes (8 cm stems, bars 5
 cm below saddle) the hooks are wonderful for 5 miles and tolerable for 10
 miles (at my usual 25 mph cruising speed).

 Conclusion? For bikes on which I want higher bars -- off road, Monocog;
 touring, SH -- long tt and high bars are just fine. For fixed gear, urban,
 short (30 miles or less) rides, which makes up most of my riding, and the
 headwinds we have in high desert, no tree Albuquerque (the horizon is always
 80 miles away), I'd insist on a shorter tt.

 YM may, will, nay, ineluctibly must vary.




-- 
Patrick Moore
Albuquerque, NM
For professional resumes, contact
Patrick Moore, ACRW at resumespecialt...@gmail.com
(505) 227-0523

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Re: [RBW] Re: Riv frames work great with drop bars

2010-05-06 Thread CycloFiend
on 5/5/10 7:08 PM, JoelMatthews at joelmatth...@mac.com wrote:

 You can disparage that as following impractical race standards all
 you want, but the fact of the matter is that lower bar height works
 better for me.
 
 Not disparaging anything.  However, if you read through GP's Readers
 he goes to great detail that he designed bikes for what he felt was a
 more comfortable upright riding.  I guess one can put race slicks on a
 Chevy Malibu if that is ones preferred tire, but wouldn't it make more
 sense to buy a Porsche?

I'm not sure if that's as appropriate an example.  For myself, I've raised
my bars as I've switched to Rivendell bikes, but neither of them are above
the saddle at this point. I think that puts me as a bit of an outlier.  ;^)

For a goodly number of folks who wanted to ride a road bike in years past,
they were told that they'd get used to the bars being low.  That running
the bars below the saddle was the way it was. Maybe 20 years ago, running
the saddle and bars at the same height was not common on a road bike.  It is
one of the reasons that mountain bikes caught on - suddenly people could use
a comfortable position to ride.  It took a darned long time for that to ease
into the popular acceptance on road bikes.

I will say flat out that the Rivendell bikes I have (QB and Hilsen) handle
better than any other road (or cross) bike I've owned.  There's no drawback
to dropping the bars, if that is what you are used to or comfortable doing.

The Rivendell designs allow a pretty amazing range of positions.  Maybe
that's the difference - it strikes me that GP designs a bike that allows for
comfortable upright position - whether that's nearly upright, 45 degrees or
flat backed. 

- J

-- 
Jim Edgar
cyclofi...@earthlink.net

Cyclofiend Bicycle Photo Galleries - http://www.cyclofiend.com
Current Classics - Cross Bikes
Singlespeed - Working Bikes

Gallery updates now appear here - http://cyclofiend.blogspot.com


I thought the idea was to waste the rest of our lives together..
-- Cyril, Breaking Away



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[RBW] Re: Riv frames work great with drop bars

2010-05-06 Thread JoelMatthews
 But again, it's just silly to think that Rivendells don't work well with
 drop bars and even lowish drop bars, just as it is silly to imply that
 lowish bars are only for racing.

Perhaps before calling me silly, you may have had the sense to look at
the original post and figure out my point.  The OP says he cannot get
bars low enough on a Riv.  You say Riv can accommodate many bar
positions, including lower positions.

Given this fact we both appear to agree upon, I quite sensibly assumed
the OP wants his bars somewhere down in the vicinity one sees on track
bikes.  A position which I think people can sensibly agree is meant
for racing and for which Rivendell bikes are not designed.

What did we jump back to February and I missed it?

On May 5, 11:14 pm, PATRICK MOORE bertin...@gmail.com wrote:
 On Wed, May 5, 2010 at 8:08 PM, JoelMatthews joelmatth...@mac.com wrote:
   You can disparage that as following impractical race standards all
   you want, but the fact of the matter is that lower bar height works
   better for me.

  Not disparaging anything.  However, if you read through GP's Readers
  he goes to great detail that he designed bikes for what he felt was a
  more comfortable upright riding.  I guess one can put race slicks on a
  Chevy Malibu if that is ones preferred tire, but wouldn't it make more
  sense to buy a Porsche?

 But again, it's just silly to think that Rivendells don't work well with
 drop bars and even lowish drop bars, just as it is silly to imply that
 lowish bars are only for racing. Low bars work fine with Rivs, at least the
 four I've owned do. What do low bars (by Grant's massively high standards)
 have to do with racing? Nothing, as far as I can tell; some people like bars
 even with or lower than the saddle because it feels more comfortable; end of
 story.

 Of course, there is low and low. I wouldn't buy a Riv with sloping tt and
 extended ht in order to lower my bars six inches below saddle, but a modest
 2 is perfectly fine and in no way racing.

 And I have short arms for my height, so low bars aren't simply a means
 of accommodating a weird build.
 --
 Patrick Moore
 Albuquerque, NM
 For professional resumes, contact
 Patrick Moore, ACRW at resumespecialt...@gmail.com
 (505) 227-0523

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[RBW] Re: Riv frames work great with drop bars

2010-05-06 Thread doug peterson
My Atlantis' primary mission is touring, and it's equipped with drop
bars, set about at seat height.  I like drops for the variety of hand
positions and ability to sit fairly upright when on the tops as well
as getting low when bucking a headwind.  The relationship of seat-
pedals-h'bars was based on my previous bike but of course has been
adjusted over time (age will do that to you).  The 58  61 Atlantis
overlap my PBH so I went 58, knowing I could make it bigger easier
than smaller.  Only minor adjustment of stem  seat post height were
needed to get it comfy.  When I'm on the bike all day, every day on a
tour, it's important to be able to change position, sit up, etc. to
keep comfortable.  Of course, stopping for coffee  photos helps a lot
too.

Occassionally I think about a flat bar for ease of packing  shipping
the bike, but am reluctant to give up the positioning variety of
drops.  Judging by the variety of set-ups on cyclofiend's site, Rivs
are pretty adaptable, with about any bar you can name being used by
someone.

dougP

On May 6, 5:57 am, Frederick, Steve frede...@mail.lib.msu.edu
wrote:
 Hi Grant--thanks for jumping in.  I can confirm your statements--I have three 
 Rivs, a Heron road, a Rambouillet and a Saluki and the seat tube angles and 
 top tube lengths vary but they all fit the same (very well) with drops.  Same 
 bars (Noodles) and the stem extensions are within a cm of each other...

 Steve

 -Original Message-
 From: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com 
 [mailto:rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com]on Behalf Of Grant Petersen
 Sent: Wednesday, May 05, 2010 5:54 PM
 To: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com
 Subject: [RBW] Riv frames work great with drop bars

  It seems to me that because of the long top tubes most of Rivendells
  frames are not designed for drop bars.  With the long top tubes you
  need bars that come back towards you to provide a comfortable reach.

 UnSo! Terribly, terrifically unso.

 The Top Tube Ruse in RR--40/ 41? talked all about that, but I realize people 
 come and go and land late and may skip over or miss, but basically, it's like 
 this. Forgive lack of detail in these explanations:

 Shallow seat tubes neutralize long top tubes. We have shallow seat tubes.

 Higher bars super-'eutralize long top tubes. We're the Cosmos champs in that 
 cat.

 As bars get higher, your arms become more horizontal, and that makes them 
 longer (effectively, not literally).

 Tall quill stems always help, but with our bikes--as much as I likem  we 
 gottem, they're less necessary than they are with a '73 Colnago, or '84 
 Centurion Ironman, etc.

 I cannot image more drop-bar friendly bikes than ours. I wouldn't design a 
 bike that wouldn't work fine with a drop. With appropriate-sized stems for 
 the size.

 Granted, my personal Sam is a 60 with a 7stem, and that's borderline funky, 
 but that's on a 62.5 top tube, and I'm a mere 5-9.9.

 G
 --
 Grant
 Rivendell Bicycle Workswww.rivbike.com
 925 933 7304

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[RBW] Re: Riv frames work great with drop bars

2010-05-05 Thread Aaron Thomas
All of this is true, but it seems to depend upon high bars to help
with the neutralizing. If someone prefers a low bars setup, one of the
neutralizing elements in Riv's schema does not come into play.

So what should someone do in such a scenario, assuming they aren't
willing to adopt a higher bar position? Should they purchase a smaller
frame than would ordinarily be recommended for their given PBH?

Aaron

On May 5, 2:53 pm, Grant Petersen gr...@rivbike.com wrote:
  It seems to me that because of the long top tubes most of Rivendells
  frames are not designed for drop bars.  With the long top tubes you
  need bars that come back towards you to provide a comfortable reach.

 UnSo! Terribly, terrifically unso.

 The Top Tube Ruse in RR--40/ 41? talked all about that, but I realize people
 come and go and land late and may skip over or miss, but basically, it's
 like this. Forgive lack of detail in these explanations:

 Shallow seat tubes neutralize long top tubes. We have shallow seat tubes.

 Higher bars super-'eutralize long top tubes. We're the Cosmos champs in that
 cat.

 As bars get higher, your arms become more horizontal, and that makes them
 longer (effectively, not literally).

 Tall quill stems always help, but with our bikes--as much as I likem  we
 gottem, they're less necessary than they are with a '73 Colnago, or '84
 Centurion Ironman, etc.

 I cannot image more drop-bar friendly bikes than ours. I wouldn't design a
 bike that wouldn't work fine with a drop. With appropriate-sized stems for
 the size.

 Granted, my personal Sam is a 60 with a 7stem, and that's borderline funky,
 but that's on a 62.5 top tube, and I'm a mere 5-9.9.

 G
 --
 Grant
 Rivendell Bicycle Workswww.rivbike.com
 925 933 7304

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[RBW] Re: Riv frames work great with drop bars

2010-05-05 Thread JoelMatthews
Roadeo excepted, isn't the general philosophy behind Riv design to
stay away from impractical race standards?

On May 5, 5:32 pm, Aaron Thomas aaron.a.tho...@gmail.com wrote:
 All of this is true, but it seems to depend upon high bars to help
 with the neutralizing. If someone prefers a low bars setup, one of the
 neutralizing elements in Riv's schema does not come into play.

 So what should someone do in such a scenario, assuming they aren't
 willing to adopt a higher bar position? Should they purchase a smaller
 frame than would ordinarily be recommended for their given PBH?

 Aaron

 On May 5, 2:53 pm, Grant Petersen gr...@rivbike.com wrote:





   It seems to me that because of the long top tubes most of Rivendells
   frames are not designed for drop bars.  With the long top tubes you
   need bars that come back towards you to provide a comfortable reach.

  UnSo! Terribly, terrifically unso.

  The Top Tube Ruse in RR--40/ 41? talked all about that, but I realize people
  come and go and land late and may skip over or miss, but basically, it's
  like this. Forgive lack of detail in these explanations:

  Shallow seat tubes neutralize long top tubes. We have shallow seat tubes.

  Higher bars super-'eutralize long top tubes. We're the Cosmos champs in that
  cat.

  As bars get higher, your arms become more horizontal, and that makes them
  longer (effectively, not literally).

  Tall quill stems always help, but with our bikes--as much as I likem  we
  gottem, they're less necessary than they are with a '73 Colnago, or '84
  Centurion Ironman, etc.

  I cannot image more drop-bar friendly bikes than ours. I wouldn't design a
  bike that wouldn't work fine with a drop. With appropriate-sized stems for
  the size.

  Granted, my personal Sam is a 60 with a 7stem, and that's borderline funky,
  but that's on a 62.5 top tube, and I'm a mere 5-9.9.

  G
  --
  Grant
  Rivendell Bicycle Workswww.rivbike.com
  925 933 7304

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[RBW] Re: Riv frames work great with drop bars

2010-05-05 Thread Aaron Thomas
I suppose one person's impractical race standards are another's
comfort zone. I tried the high-bars approach and didn't care for it. I
felt like I was driving a bus and that my center of gravity was too
high.

You can disparage that as following impractical race standards all
you want, but the fact of the matter is that lower bar height works
better for me. But in coming to that discovery I've had to give up one
of the long-top-tube neutralizing variables in the process. Hence my
question: if someone prefers lower bars, should they size down with
respect to what ordinarily be recommended?

On May 5, 3:38 pm, JoelMatthews joelmatth...@mac.com wrote:
 Roadeo excepted, isn't the general philosophy behind Riv design to
 stay away from impractical race standards?

 On May 5, 5:32 pm, Aaron Thomas aaron.a.tho...@gmail.com wrote:



  All of this is true, but it seems to depend upon high bars to help
  with the neutralizing. If someone prefers a low bars setup, one of the
  neutralizing elements in Riv's schema does not come into play.

  So what should someone do in such a scenario, assuming they aren't
  willing to adopt a higher bar position? Should they purchase a smaller
  frame than would ordinarily be recommended for their given PBH?

  Aaron

  On May 5, 2:53 pm, Grant Petersen gr...@rivbike.com wrote:

It seems to me that because of the long top tubes most of Rivendells
frames are not designed for drop bars.  With the long top tubes you
need bars that come back towards you to provide a comfortable reach.

   UnSo! Terribly, terrifically unso.

   The Top Tube Ruse in RR--40/ 41? talked all about that, but I realize 
   people
   come and go and land late and may skip over or miss, but basically, it's
   like this. Forgive lack of detail in these explanations:

   Shallow seat tubes neutralize long top tubes. We have shallow seat tubes.

   Higher bars super-'eutralize long top tubes. We're the Cosmos champs in 
   that
   cat.

   As bars get higher, your arms become more horizontal, and that makes them
   longer (effectively, not literally).

   Tall quill stems always help, but with our bikes--as much as I likem  we
   gottem, they're less necessary than they are with a '73 Colnago, or '84
   Centurion Ironman, etc.

   I cannot image more drop-bar friendly bikes than ours. I wouldn't design a
   bike that wouldn't work fine with a drop. With appropriate-sized stems for
   the size.

   Granted, my personal Sam is a 60 with a 7stem, and that's borderline 
   funky,
   but that's on a 62.5 top tube, and I'm a mere 5-9.9.

   G
   --
   Grant
   Rivendell Bicycle Workswww.rivbike.com
   925 933 7304

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[RBW] Re: Riv frames work great with drop bars

2010-05-05 Thread rcnute
In my experience, don't fear the long top tubes on Rivendells.  I was
a bit apprehensive (at 5'9+) about going from a 54-55 standard road
bike to a 57 Bleriot and 58 Saluki.  They fit great and I didn't have
the bars all that high.  Big bikes are comfy.

Ryan

On May 5, 5:08 pm, Bill Connell bconn...@gmail.com wrote:
 I think you need to pay attention to both seat and top tube when
 shopping frames. There's no one right answer, it depends greatly on
 how the bike will be ridden and the intended bars. One of the main
 benefits of the typical Rivendell fit is the typically higher bars,
 but you don't want/need them higher than the saddle, the next size
 down is certainly a valid choice.



 On Wednesday, May 5, 2010, Aaron Thomas aaron.a.tho...@gmail.com wrote:
  I suppose one person's impractical race standards are another's
  comfort zone. I tried the high-bars approach and didn't care for it. I
  felt like I was driving a bus and that my center of gravity was too
  high.

  You can disparage that as following impractical race standards all
  you want, but the fact of the matter is that lower bar height works
  better for me. But in coming to that discovery I've had to give up one
  of the long-top-tube neutralizing variables in the process. Hence my
  question: if someone prefers lower bars, should they size down with
  respect to what ordinarily be recommended?

  On May 5, 3:38 pm, JoelMatthews joelmatth...@mac.com wrote:
  Roadeo excepted, isn't the general philosophy behind Riv design to
  stay away from impractical race standards?

  On May 5, 5:32 pm, Aaron Thomas aaron.a.tho...@gmail.com wrote:

   All of this is true, but it seems to depend upon high bars to help
   with the neutralizing. If someone prefers a low bars setup, one of the
   neutralizing elements in Riv's schema does not come into play.

   So what should someone do in such a scenario, assuming they aren't
   willing to adopt a higher bar position? Should they purchase a smaller
   frame than would ordinarily be recommended for their given PBH?

   Aaron

   On May 5, 2:53 pm, Grant Petersen gr...@rivbike.com wrote:

 It seems to me that because of the long top tubes most of Rivendells
 frames are not designed for drop bars.  With the long top tubes you
 need bars that come back towards you to provide a comfortable reach.

UnSo! Terribly, terrifically unso.

The Top Tube Ruse in RR--40/ 41? talked all about that, but I realize 
people
come and go and land late and may skip over or miss, but basically, 
it's
like this. Forgive lack of detail in these explanations:

Shallow seat tubes neutralize long top tubes. We have shallow seat 
tubes.

Higher bars super-'eutralize long top tubes. We're the Cosmos champs 
in that
cat.

As bars get higher, your arms become more horizontal, and that makes 
them
longer (effectively, not literally).

Tall quill stems always help, but with our bikes--as much as I likem  
we
gottem, they're less necessary than they are with a '73 Colnago, or '84
Centurion Ironman, etc.

I cannot image more drop-bar friendly bikes than ours. I wouldn't 
design a
bike that wouldn't work fine with a drop. With appropriate-sized stems 
for
the size.

Granted, my personal Sam is a 60 with a 7stem, and that's borderline 
funky,
but that's on a 62.5 top tube, and I'm a mere 5-9.9.

G
--
Grant
Rivendell Bicycle Workswww.rivbike.com
925 933 7304

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[RBW] Re: Riv frames work great with drop bars

2010-05-05 Thread JoelMatthews
 You can disparage that as following impractical race standards all
 you want, but the fact of the matter is that lower bar height works
 better for me.

Not disparaging anything.  However, if you read through GP's Readers
he goes to great detail that he designed bikes for what he felt was a
more comfortable upright riding.  I guess one can put race slicks on a
Chevy Malibu if that is ones preferred tire, but wouldn't it make more
sense to buy a Porsche?

On May 5, 5:59 pm, Aaron Thomas aaron.a.tho...@gmail.com wrote:
 I suppose one person's impractical race standards are another's
 comfort zone. I tried the high-bars approach and didn't care for it. I
 felt like I was driving a bus and that my center of gravity was too
 high.

 You can disparage that as following impractical race standards all
 you want, but the fact of the matter is that lower bar height works
 better for me. But in coming to that discovery I've had to give up one
 of the long-top-tube neutralizing variables in the process. Hence my
 question: if someone prefers lower bars, should they size down with
 respect to what ordinarily be recommended?

 On May 5, 3:38 pm, JoelMatthews joelmatth...@mac.com wrote:





  Roadeo excepted, isn't the general philosophy behind Riv design to
  stay away from impractical race standards?

  On May 5, 5:32 pm, Aaron Thomas aaron.a.tho...@gmail.com wrote:

   All of this is true, but it seems to depend upon high bars to help
   with the neutralizing. If someone prefers a low bars setup, one of the
   neutralizing elements in Riv's schema does not come into play.

   So what should someone do in such a scenario, assuming they aren't
   willing to adopt a higher bar position? Should they purchase a smaller
   frame than would ordinarily be recommended for their given PBH?

   Aaron

   On May 5, 2:53 pm, Grant Petersen gr...@rivbike.com wrote:

 It seems to me that because of the long top tubes most of Rivendells
 frames are not designed for drop bars.  With the long top tubes you
 need bars that come back towards you to provide a comfortable reach.

UnSo! Terribly, terrifically unso.

The Top Tube Ruse in RR--40/ 41? talked all about that, but I realize 
people
come and go and land late and may skip over or miss, but basically, it's
like this. Forgive lack of detail in these explanations:

Shallow seat tubes neutralize long top tubes. We have shallow seat 
tubes.

Higher bars super-'eutralize long top tubes. We're the Cosmos champs in 
that
cat.

As bars get higher, your arms become more horizontal, and that makes 
them
longer (effectively, not literally).

Tall quill stems always help, but with our bikes--as much as I likem  
we
gottem, they're less necessary than they are with a '73 Colnago, or '84
Centurion Ironman, etc.

I cannot image more drop-bar friendly bikes than ours. I wouldn't 
design a
bike that wouldn't work fine with a drop. With appropriate-sized stems 
for
the size.

Granted, my personal Sam is a 60 with a 7stem, and that's borderline 
funky,
but that's on a 62.5 top tube, and I'm a mere 5-9.9.

G
--
Grant
Rivendell Bicycle Workswww.rivbike.com
925 933 7304

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[RBW] Re: Riv frames work great with drop bars

2010-05-05 Thread Michael_S
Perhaps... the PBH measurement emphasis is too strong?  I've learned
over the years of hip and other injuries that top tube length and seat
tube angle are the most important bike dimensions to consider 1st. PBH
only tells you if you can straddle the top tube and how much seat post
will show. Of course seatpost setback and stem length/height and even
seat rail length need to be considered as well.

The compact frame phenomenon has as it's only redeeming quality the
shift to top tube length as the key indicator of bike fit.


~Mike~




On May 5, 7:08 pm, JoelMatthews joelmatth...@mac.com wrote:
  You can disparage that as following impractical race standards all
  you want, but the fact of the matter is that lower bar height works
  better for me.

 Not disparaging anything.  However, if you read through GP's Readers
 he goes to great detail that he designed bikes for what he felt was a
 more comfortable upright riding.  I guess one can put race slicks on a
 Chevy Malibu if that is ones preferred tire, but wouldn't it make more
 sense to buy a Porsche?

 On May 5, 5:59 pm, Aaron Thomas aaron.a.tho...@gmail.com wrote:





  I suppose one person's impractical race standards are another's
  comfort zone. I tried the high-bars approach and didn't care for it. I
  felt like I was driving a bus and that my center of gravity was too
  high.

  You can disparage that as following impractical race standards all
  you want, but the fact of the matter is that lower bar height works
  better for me. But in coming to that discovery I've had to give up one
  of the long-top-tube neutralizing variables in the process. Hence my
  question: if someone prefers lower bars, should they size down with
  respect to what ordinarily be recommended?

  On May 5, 3:38 pm, JoelMatthews joelmatth...@mac.com wrote:

   Roadeo excepted, isn't the general philosophy behind Riv design to
   stay away from impractical race standards?

   On May 5, 5:32 pm, Aaron Thomas aaron.a.tho...@gmail.com wrote:

All of this is true, but it seems to depend upon high bars to help
with the neutralizing. If someone prefers a low bars setup, one of the
neutralizing elements in Riv's schema does not come into play.

So what should someone do in such a scenario, assuming they aren't
willing to adopt a higher bar position? Should they purchase a smaller
frame than would ordinarily be recommended for their given PBH?

Aaron

On May 5, 2:53 pm, Grant Petersen gr...@rivbike.com wrote:

  It seems to me that because of the long top tubes most of Rivendells
  frames are not designed for drop bars.  With the long top tubes you
  need bars that come back towards you to provide a comfortable reach.

 UnSo! Terribly, terrifically unso.

 The Top Tube Ruse in RR--40/ 41? talked all about that, but I realize 
 people
 come and go and land late and may skip over or miss, but basically, 
 it's
 like this. Forgive lack of detail in these explanations:

 Shallow seat tubes neutralize long top tubes. We have shallow seat 
 tubes.

 Higher bars super-'eutralize long top tubes. We're the Cosmos champs 
 in that
 cat.

 As bars get higher, your arms become more horizontal, and that makes 
 them
 longer (effectively, not literally).

 Tall quill stems always help, but with our bikes--as much as I likem 
  we
 gottem, they're less necessary than they are with a '73 Colnago, or 
 '84
 Centurion Ironman, etc.

 I cannot image more drop-bar friendly bikes than ours. I wouldn't 
 design a
 bike that wouldn't work fine with a drop. With appropriate-sized 
 stems for
 the size.

 Granted, my personal Sam is a 60 with a 7stem, and that's borderline 
 funky,
 but that's on a 62.5 top tube, and I'm a mere 5-9.9.

 G
 --
 Grant
 Rivendell Bicycle Workswww.rivbike.com
 925 933 7304

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Re: [RBW] Re: Riv frames work great with drop bars

2010-05-05 Thread PATRICK MOORE
That is what I did, as well as using shortish stems -- 8 cm. The bikes fit
and feel and handle perfectly.

The new Sam Hill is a 56 with a 59 tt and came with a 10 cm stem; I simply
kept the bars high -- about 1/2 inch above saddle versus 2 below for the
others -- tho' considerably lower than they had been as originally set up.
With the longer reach (and the wider bars; I use 42s on my other bikes) the
SH feels quite nice. I think I'd prefer to swap out the 46 cm Noodles for a
44 cm 185 if I had the chance since the Noodles do feel a bit wide; anyone
care to trade?

But I can ride in the drops longer than on my other bikes -- 20 miles
instead of 10 -- though the hooks feel a bit high and I feel less powerful;
But I plan to use it for touring, so that is alright.

On Wed, May 5, 2010 at 4:59 PM, Aaron Thomas aaron.a.tho...@gmail.comwrote:

 I suppose one person's impractical race standards are another's
 comfort zone. I tried the high-bars approach and didn't care for it. I
 felt like I was driving a bus and that my center of gravity was too
 high.

 You can disparage that as following impractical race standards all
 you want, but the fact of the matter is that lower bar height works
 better for me. But in coming to that discovery I've had to give up one
 of the long-top-tube neutralizing variables in the process. Hence my
 question: if someone prefers lower bars, should they size down with
 respect to what ordinarily be recommended?

 On May 5, 3:38 pm, JoelMatthews joelmatth...@mac.com wrote:
  Roadeo excepted, isn't the general philosophy behind Riv design to
  stay away from impractical race standards?
 
  On May 5, 5:32 pm, Aaron Thomas aaron.a.tho...@gmail.com wrote:
 
 
 
   All of this is true, but it seems to depend upon high bars to help
   with the neutralizing. If someone prefers a low bars setup, one of the
   neutralizing elements in Riv's schema does not come into play.
 
   So what should someone do in such a scenario, assuming they aren't
   willing to adopt a higher bar position? Should they purchase a smaller
   frame than would ordinarily be recommended for their given PBH?
 
   Aaron
 
   On May 5, 2:53 pm, Grant Petersen gr...@rivbike.com wrote:
 
 It seems to me that because of the long top tubes most of
 Rivendells
 frames are not designed for drop bars.  With the long top tubes you
 need bars that come back towards you to provide a comfortable
 reach.
 
UnSo! Terribly, terrifically unso.
 
The Top Tube Ruse in RR--40/ 41? talked all about that, but I realize
 people
come and go and land late and may skip over or miss, but basically,
 it's
like this. Forgive lack of detail in these explanations:
 
Shallow seat tubes neutralize long top tubes. We have shallow seat
 tubes.
 
Higher bars super-'eutralize long top tubes. We're the Cosmos champs
 in that
cat.
 
As bars get higher, your arms become more horizontal, and that makes
 them
longer (effectively, not literally).
 
Tall quill stems always help, but with our bikes--as much as I likem
  we
gottem, they're less necessary than they are with a '73 Colnago, or
 '84
Centurion Ironman, etc.
 
I cannot image more drop-bar friendly bikes than ours. I wouldn't
 design a
bike that wouldn't work fine with a drop. With appropriate-sized
 stems for
the size.
 
Granted, my personal Sam is a 60 with a 7stem, and that's borderline
 funky,
but that's on a 62.5 top tube, and I'm a mere 5-9.9.
 
G
--
Grant
Rivendell Bicycle Workswww.rivbike.com
925 933 7304
 
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Re: [RBW] Re: Riv frames work great with drop bars

2010-05-05 Thread PATRICK MOORE
On Wed, May 5, 2010 at 8:08 PM, JoelMatthews joelmatth...@mac.com wrote:

  You can disparage that as following impractical race standards all
  you want, but the fact of the matter is that lower bar height works
  better for me.

 Not disparaging anything.  However, if you read through GP's Readers
 he goes to great detail that he designed bikes for what he felt was a
 more comfortable upright riding.  I guess one can put race slicks on a
 Chevy Malibu if that is ones preferred tire, but wouldn't it make more
 sense to buy a Porsche?


But again, it's just silly to think that Rivendells don't work well with
drop bars and even lowish drop bars, just as it is silly to imply that
lowish bars are only for racing. Low bars work fine with Rivs, at least the
four I've owned do. What do low bars (by Grant's massively high standards)
have to do with racing? Nothing, as far as I can tell; some people like bars
even with or lower than the saddle because it feels more comfortable; end of
story.

Of course, there is low and low. I wouldn't buy a Riv with sloping tt and
extended ht in order to lower my bars six inches below saddle, but a modest
2 is perfectly fine and in no way racing.

And I have short arms for my height, so low bars aren't simply a means
of accommodating a weird build.
-- 
Patrick Moore
Albuquerque, NM
For professional resumes, contact
Patrick Moore, ACRW at resumespecialt...@gmail.com
(505) 227-0523

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Re: [RBW] Re: Riv frames work great with drop bars

2010-05-05 Thread Seth Vidal
On Thu, May 6, 2010 at 12:14 AM, PATRICK MOORE bertin...@gmail.com wrote:
 And I have short arms for my height, so low bars aren't simply a means
 of accommodating a weird build.


Here's what I want to know. What is the size/proportion of legs/torso
arms/height that is expected and/or designed for?

I'd like to better know where I fit in the range of things.

-sv

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Re: [RBW] Re: Riv frames work great with drop bars

2010-05-05 Thread PATRICK MOORE
On Wed, May 5, 2010 at 10:18 PM, Seth Vidal skvi...@gmail.com wrote:

 On Thu, May 6, 2010 at 12:14 AM, PATRICK MOORE bertin...@gmail.com
 wrote:
  And I have short arms for my height, so low bars aren't simply a means
  of accommodating a weird build.


 Here's what I want to know. What is the size/proportion of legs/torso
 arms/height that is expected and/or designed for?


Do you mean, that is expected by Rivendell and designed for by Rivendell?
IOW, what build does Grant have in mind when he designs his bikes? I'd guess
the normal range.


 I'd like to better know where I fit in the range of things.


Are you an outlier? I have an Asian build on an Anglo Saxon scale. When I
stand up, my brother in law named Hansen is 3 taller than I at 6'1. When
we sit down, my head is even with his. He'd fit fine on a Riv, as do I.



-- 
Patrick Moore
Albuquerque, NM
For professional resumes, contact
Patrick Moore, ACRW at resumespecialt...@gmail.com
(505) 227-0523

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Re: [RBW] Re: Riv frames work great with drop bars

2010-05-05 Thread Seth Vidal
On Thu, May 6, 2010 at 12:25 AM, PATRICK MOORE bertin...@gmail.com wrote:
 Do you mean, that is expected by Rivendell and designed for by Rivendell?
 IOW, what build does Grant have in mind when he designs his bikes?

 I'd guess the normal range.

Yes - but I don't know what 'normal' is. This is why I asked. :)


I'm not being dense - I really don't know.

I always thought I was normal but well maybe not.

-sv

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Re: [RBW] Re: Riv frames work great with drop bars

2010-05-05 Thread PATRICK MOORE
Can you find shirts and pants that fit you in the men's section at large
chain stores? Then you are normal, no?

On Wed, May 5, 2010 at 10:29 PM, Seth Vidal skvi...@gmail.com wrote:

 On Thu, May 6, 2010 at 12:25 AM, PATRICK MOORE bertin...@gmail.com
 wrote:
  Do you mean, that is expected by Rivendell and designed for by
 Rivendell?
  IOW, what build does Grant have in mind when he designs his bikes?

  I'd guess the normal range.

 Yes - but I don't know what 'normal' is. This is why I asked. :)


 I'm not being dense - I really don't know.

 I always thought I was normal but well maybe not.

 -sv

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Patrick Moore
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Re: [RBW] Re: Riv frames work great with drop bars

2010-05-05 Thread Seth Vidal
On Thu, May 6, 2010 at 12:32 AM, PATRICK MOORE bertin...@gmail.com wrote:
 Can you find shirts and pants that fit you in the men's section at large
 chain stores? Then you are normal, no?


Shirts, if they are in the 'Tall' section. I find I can't keep them
tucked in if they are not.

and Pants if they are normalish.

30 or 32 inseam on the pants - my PBH is something like 87 or 88.

I know I can standover a 34 top tube w/o being bothered by it.

I also know that I have a 58cm atlantis and an 7cm stem. If the bars
got any further away from me I would be uncomfortable.

I considered a 61cm as an option but it still seems like it would be
making the reach worse.

-sv

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