RE: [TANKS] LiFePo4 Sources & Recommendations

[Jason K]

Wiiit, the otb are now allowing lithiums

-Original Message-
From: "Joe Sommer" 
Sent: ‎8/‎25/‎2016 7:05 AM
To: "R/C Tank Combat" 
Subject: Re: [TANKS] LiFePo4 Sources & Recommendations


On Tuesday, August 23, 2016 at 9:46:41 PM UTC-4, RocketMan wrote:
>
> I got my 12.8v LiFePo4s from here: 
>
> http://www.batteryspace.com/lifepo4-prismatic-battery-12-8v-20ah-256wh-10c-rate-24-0---un38-3-passed-dgr.aspx
>  
>
> Doug,

Is there a charging system on a small board in the top of the plastic case?
It appears that you can connect directly to the positive and negative 
terminals
of the four cells in series but does not show any connections to 
intermediate
cells to monitor balance during charging.

If there is a board, it does not provide low voltage cutoff because the 
description
warns to not discharge below 10V which is below the recommended 2.8V per 
cell
minimum for LiFePO4.

Joe

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RE: [TANKS] Re: 3D printers

[Jason K]

I have an older davinci, it's decent for the office but expect some software 
issues, it's also fed from a cartridge that doesn't have a ton of filament in 
it and can't be refilled once used up cause of a chip in it, there's a work 
around called  the xyzero cart that simulates an oem cartridge with the chip 
but is resettable 

-Original Message-
From: "Niels Erik Kristensen" 
Sent: ‎5/‎9/‎2016 11:08 AM
To: "R/C Tank Combat" 
Subject: [TANKS] Re: 3D printers

I use a Prusa I3 kit-Cheap and realiable.

Den tirsdag den 3. maj 2016 kl. 22.30.26 UTC+2 skrev neroc1:
>
> Im looking at buying a 3D printer , I have heard much talk of them on 
> here, Im wondering what type to buy,
> If any of the tankers who own / use a 3D printer could tell me what they 
> bought and what they think of it Id be very grateful.
> One I have my eye on is the Da vinci 
>
>
> http://recs.richrelevance.com/rrserver/click?a=493e4bf19aaf81b5&vg=b6cf8626-bb85-4e46-5b9c-ff551e128759&pti=1&pa=rr1&hpi=6721&stn=PersonalizedClickCPInCategory&stid=106&rti=0&sgs=&mvtId=-1&mvtTs=1462307226095&uguid=999be9c8-ed0b-4749-0227-5b544fd02af5&channelId=WEB&s=8817C37BB07909494B0C19C962CDB73D.app5&pg=2204&rid=uk&p=A88TQ&ind=0&ct=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.maplin.co.uk%2Fp%2Fda-vinci-11-plus-3d-printer-with-wi-fi-a88tq
>
> Can anyone recommend this or any other ? 
>
> Thanks fellas
>
>
>
>
>

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Re: [TANKS] freezing your batteries

[Jason]

I raced elec 190mm touring, never heard of it, packs didn't even last me a 
summer with the abuse we gave em lol


Sent via BlackBerry from T-Mobile

-Original Message-
From: "'Mike Mangus' via R/C Tank Combat" 
Sender: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com
Date: Sun, 1 Feb 2015 06:04:38 
To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com
Reply-To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: [TANKS] freezing your batteries

Back in the day the serious RC car racers stored NiMH cells in the freezer.  
The idea was to make sure the cell was as cold as possible to pack in capacity 
before the charging process raised the internal cell temperature.  The theory 
was that a cold cell had less internal resistance than a warm/hot cell.
 Since battery life was not a factor, we never gave any thought to extending 
the cell life.  We replaced all our batteries yearly anyway to stay competitive.
Mike M

  From: Jason 
 To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com 
 Sent: Friday, January 30, 2015 9:02 PM
 Subject: Re: [TANKS] freezing your batteries
   
Never heard of such a thing

If true I wonder at what cost the extended life comes... Reduced output 
voltage, decreased capacity etc?Sent via BlackBerry from T-MobileFrom:  
"OdysseySlipways via R/C Tank Combat" Sender:  
rctankcombat@googlegroups.comDate: Fri, 30 Jan 2015 21:51:46 -0500To: 
ReplyTo:  rctankcombat@googlegroups.comSubject: 
[TANKS] freezing your batteries
i keep forgetting to post about this the other day on the news on Money Talks 
they were talking about how freezing your metal/nickel (or something) batteries 
when you first get them (new) it will increase their life span by as much as 
2x's. anyone else know or heard about this? just thought it might something of 
interest to those that use them chris-- 
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Re: [TANKS] freezing your batteries

[Jason]

Never heard of such a thing

If true I wonder at what cost the extended life comes... Reduced output 
voltage,  decreased capacity etc?
Sent via BlackBerry from T-Mobile

-Original Message-
From: "OdysseySlipways via R/C Tank Combat" 
Sender: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com
Date: Fri, 30 Jan 2015 21:51:46 
To: 
Reply-To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com
Subject: [TANKS] freezing your batteries

i keep forgetting to post about this
 
the other day on the news on Money Talks they were talking about how  
freezing your metal/nickel (or something) batteries when you first get them  
(new) it will increase their life span by as much as 2x's.
 
anyone else know or heard about this?
 
just thought it might something of interest to those that use them
 
chris

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Re: [TANKS] what cleaner ?

[Jason]

Dawn and warm water is what iv always used on my paintball gear
Sent via BlackBerry from T-Mobile

-Original Message-
From: "Doug Conn" 
Sender: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com
Date: Sun, 4 Jan 2015 22:12:48 
To: 
Reply-To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com
Subject: [TANKS] what cleaner ?

Hello -

 

I'm cleaning and rebuilding the Bofors Gun and Bad Kitty's markers. Both are
covered in dried paintball gunk. Has anybody discovered a good cleaner to
remove that stuff ?

 

Thanks,

Doug

 

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Re: [TANKS] o/t - what is it?

[Jason]

Its not so much the ice, as the vegetation later that insulates the ground 
above the premafrost areas, those plants are delicate and easily torn up, once 
they are gone the permafrost melts
Sent via BlackBerry from T-Mobile

-Original Message-
From: "Darrin Smith" 
Sender: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com
Date: Mon, 8 Dec 2014 14:39:21 
To: 
Reply-To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: [TANKS] o/t - what is it?

Of course we can't have any ice damaged, it's so rare.
  - Original Message - 
  From: Jean-Maxime Cyr St-Pierre 
  To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com 
  Sent: Monday, December 08, 2014 2:35 AM
  Subject: RE: [TANKS] o/t - what is it?


  I don't know the name of it, but it's a special truck made to go on 
expeditions in Antarctica without 


  destroying the natural environment ... Saw it in a documentary long time 
ago.


  
Jean-Maxime Cyr St-Pierre


--
  From: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com
  Date: Mon, 8 Dec 2014 00:55:50 -0500
  Subject: [TANKS] o/t - what is it?
  To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com




  chris

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Re: [TANKS] Re: 25 Pounder Upgrades for the Next Battle

[Jason]

A paintball should have zero effect on a lipo, especially so the hard cased 
style
Sent via BlackBerry from T-Mobile

-Original Message-
From: isaac goldman 
Sender: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com
Date: Tue, 21 Oct 2014 19:45:46 
To: 
Reply-To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: [TANKS] Re: 25 Pounder Upgrades for the Next Battle

Ive never had any problems either with the talons at 12 volts (glad to know
im not the only one who dislikes sabertooths). But 24 volt systems are to
12 volts like a diesel is to gasoline. Its a whole different system, and
far less forgiving. Given that in order to build the talons down to a price
various fail safe systems were cut out (no over temp protection, over
current protection, reverse polarity protection, low thermal mass...) I
would be concerned these same features are also absent from the 24 volt
model...

On Tue, Oct 21, 2014 at 6:52 PM, Caleb Smith <3219ca...@gmail.com> wrote:

> Ordered two new batteries for the 25 Pounder.  The last battle I ran her
> off of a 8 amp 7.4 volt LiPo.  That battery had no protection so who knows
> what would happen if it got hit by a stray paintball.  These new batteries
> have a hard plastic outer shell.  Plus they're smaller at 4 amps.  Should
> be better all around
>
> 5 days till the battle, can't wait!
>
> On Friday, October 10, 2014 7:36:14 PM UTC-4, Caleb Smith wrote:
>
>> Over the last month or so I've upgraded, rebuilt, and strengthened
>> several parts of the Quarter Pounder.  I thought it advisable to disclose
>> the changes to the possible enemy to reduce the possibility of having too
>> much of an advantage over them.
>>
>> Upgrade one:  New barrel
>> I during the last battle, I found the stock barrel to be accurate at
>> close range, but longer range shots seemed to be sporadic.  So after doing
>> some homework I decided that a 32 Degrees Night Stick was a good choice.
>> So far, no testing has taken place, but everywhere I read their accuracy is
>> said to be up there with much higher end barrels.
>>
>> Upgrade two: New Actuator
>> Not exactly an upgrade, more like a forced upgrade.  The old actuator got
>> fried, so I needed a replacement.
>>
>> Rebuild one: Elevate
>> During the Quarter Pounder's quick build, I found that building the arms
>> and lever for the elevate out of wood was the easiest choice.  I was told
>> that this setup should be replaced with either plastic or metal as the wood
>> wouldn't hold up.  Just recently I rebuilt everything with metal.  Works
>> very well and is plenty strong.
>>
>>
>> 
>> Strengthen one: Rotate
>> When originally built, the cog wheel used a carriage bolt to attach the
>> wheel to a coupler which is attached to the motor.  The square neck of the
>> carriage bolt was started to rotate its way loose.  To fix this, I took a
>> large washer and filed a square hole in it for the bolt.  I then drilled to
>> hole on either side of the waster and bolted this to the cog wheel.
>> Much better and should last a long time.
>>
>>
>> 
>>  Enjoy,
>> C
>>
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Re: [TANKS] Fury

[Jason]

The trailers don't even come close

Sent via BlackBerry from T-Mobile

-Original Message-
From: "OdysseySlipways via R/C Tank Combat" 
Sender: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com
Date: Mon, 20 Oct 2014 16:58:26 
To: 
Reply-To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: [TANKS] Fury

with all of the previews we have been seeing for it on Trailers for the  
last few weeks, there doesn't seem to be much left to go see
 
chris
 
 
In a message dated 10/19/2014 7:54:16 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
steve...@gmail.com writes:

Just watched Fury.  GO SEE IT!
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Re: [TANKS] Re: Fury

[Jason]

Its ok if you liked it
Sent via BlackBerry from T-Mobile

-Original Message-
From: neroc1 
Sender: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com
Date: Mon, 20 Oct 2014 09:34:13 
To: 
Reply-To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com
Subject: [TANKS] Re: Fury

Damm !

I watched "Furry" , went to the wrong cinema 




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Re: [TANKS] FURY

[Jason]

I dunno how authentic a tiger bouncing a close range shot off a sherman is... 
Regardless I'm going to see it

Sent via BlackBerry from T-Mobile

-Original Message-
From: Michael Butts 
Sender: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com
Date: Sun, 7 Sep 2014 14:23:20 
To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com
Reply-To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: [TANKS] FURY

   I was reading that they were trying very hard to not make it too theatrical 
but not relegate it to being a fancy documentary. Generally they were trying to 
make it as authentic as possible. I know it is on my "must see" list.
Mike Butts

> On Sep 7, 2014, at 1:49 PM, Robert Currie  wrote: 
> 
> http://youtu.be/SKu5lGfRBxc
> 
> Looks like this might be good 
> 
> Cheers Robert Currie 
> M4A1 GRIZZLY T - 89
> 
> 
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Re: [TANKS] Re: Survey time!

[Jason]

Foreground is a metal melting furnace, background is a spin casting machine, 
this is for like jewelry sized stuff
Sent via BlackBerry from T-Mobile

-Original Message-
From: odysseyslipw...@aol.com
Sender: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com
Date: Thu, 27 Mar 2014 21:33:54 
To: 
Reply-To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: [TANKS] Re: Survey time!

what is that? i'd almost be willing to say the machine on the far side is a 
 vacuum chamber, but can't be 100% sure as i see what looks to be a gas 
line  coming down the wall, so one of them may be an oven or kiln possibly? and 
the  thing standing up against the wall, i have no clue other then it looks 
like 2  power lines coming in/out of the left side of it. i'm also going to 
guess that  copper line is an air line next to the door (why use copper as 
a air line? i'd  be worried about it splitting under pressure)
 
 
In a message dated 3/27/2014 4:32:26 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
foaadd...@gmail.com writes:

 
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/--sWAP0eU6X0/UzSJp_pl15I/AJw/YDX50oI8QLU/s1600/Furnace+and+Spin+Caster.jpg)
 

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Re: [TANKS] need some help over here

[Jason]

I've got experience in both die casting and sand casting aluminum, how are you 
planning on casting the hull...
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-Original Message-
From: ~D 
Sender: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com
Date: Mon, 10 Mar 2014 11:27:36 
To: 
Reply-To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: [TANKS] need some help over here


>
> exactly! 
>
> here is a run down of what my tank is,stop me when i say something new:
double diff steering
fully cast aluminium hull/turret
heading lock gyro for turret(both traverse and elevation) 
welded track links
and last but not least, a proper authentic paintjob!

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Re: [TANKS] Minor upgrade to T-79

[Jason]

Field mods aren't exactly production are they
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-Original Message-
From: John Pittelli 
Sender: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com
Date: Sun, 9 Feb 2014 21:07:49 
To: tank club
Reply-To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com
Subject: [TANKS] Minor upgrade to T-79

Spent a few hours today adding an upgrade to the Abomination.  An observer 
mumbled that it would be outlawed. Oh well, I leave that to our forum to 
decide. Check out the last page of T-79.

On another note, while reading a roster for Operation Hercules , it seems that 
one of the 12 Pz II Ausf J's in the Bethke Co. was field outfitted with the 
75mm short barrel howitzer from the early PzIV's. 
I found this photo of that tank . PzII is on the left  While unfortunately the 
gun is not visible, you can clearly see  the standard 75mm ammo box stowed on 
the right rear fender. 

To the rules committee:

I will be making this variation. Please upgrade the ammo allotment from 30 
rounds to 40 rounds. Thank you in advance for your consideration. Strength 
through a better Abomination. 


Oberst Johann

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Re: [TANKS] Radio batteries

[Jason]

If its the standard plug into the radio wall charger then yes, it will be no 
problem
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-Original Message-
From: neroc1 
Sender: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com
Date: Mon, 27 Jan 2014 04:18:39 
To: 
Reply-To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com
Subject: [TANKS] Radio batteries

I hope this doesnt sound like too much of a stupid question, but my 
Tx battery is on it way out. 
Its  ni-cad and only holds charge for half an hour now. 
I have scoured ebay but can only find Ni-MH equivalents . my question is - 
will my charger happily charge either Ni-cad or Ni-MH ? 

Neil

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Re: [TANKS] Re: CO2 versus Compressed Air

[Jason]

If the tank was properly filled the heat from a car heater should be nowhere 
near enough heat to pop a burst disc.  There was a rash of defective burst 
discs I heard about a few years back...maybe you had one of those

CO2 paint ball cylinders at room temp at about 900psi
Their burst discs are rated at 3000psi
You'd have to get it well hotter than a car heater can achieve to get the psi 
high enough to pop the disc

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-Original Message-
From: pureteenl...@hotmail.com
Sender: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com
Date: Thu, 23 Jan 2014 12:13:06 
To: 
Reply-To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com
Subject: [TANKS] Re: CO2 versus Compressed Air

There are some simple ways to alleviate many of the drawbacks of Co2. An 
anti-syphon tube in your bottle will stop your gun sucking liquid Co2 but 
it needs to be set up correctly according to how the bottle is fixed in the 
tank. This will stop your gun freezing in all but the coldest weather. The 
addition of a remote hose between the tank and the gun will also help a 
lot. As for burst valves blowing, I've had one go in almost 30 years of 
playing paintball and that was caused by leaving it in the footwell of the 
car with the heater blowing hot air on it. It filled the car with fizzy 
vapour while I was doing 70 on the M56. The solution is not to leave your 
bottles in full sunlight or in the stream of hot air from your cars heater. 
If the burst disc does blow, they are pennies to replace and can be done 
easily in the field with the right size spanner.

On Thursday, January 23, 2014 7:01:07 PM UTC, Loic atFOA wrote:
>
> 
>
>
> 
>
> 
> Fellow Tankers,
>
> I have listed below my findings between HPA (high pressure Air) and CO2. I 
> know our hobby uses CO2 mainly. I just found out at great expense of time 
> that under current cold air in Utah, my CO2 feed did not work properly, 
> freezing/breaking paintballs and throwing dry ice through the barrel.
>
> I'm interested to post my findings on FOA website, but before I'd like to 
> share it with you guys, hobbyist with much more experience on the specific 
> field of "Combat Tanks". 
>
> "Just for fun", I'm adding a few photos of the interior of our new 
> ABS/metal Tiger I. You can see the QLoader and the coaxial laser pointer, 
> which both work well. I have re-designed the T087 I took to Gettysburg last 
> fall, and would like to replace it with our new ABS/inner metal frame Tiger 
> I Ausf.E which photos I have attached. I will post videos of this tank 
> performance in the next few days. The laser works great, the paintball is 
> now fixed, and the radio has the two push buttons Tyng Tech suggested in 
> one of his "do it yourself" posts.
>
> The "new" T087 has:
> MPSS Individual Suspension System
> TTMS Motorization System
> TTRS Turret Rotation System
> TTES Gun Elevation System
> CLPS Coaxial Laser Pointer System
> ECS Electronic Control System
> QLoader Paintball Feed
>
> Cheers from Utah
>
> HPA (High Pressure Air ) versus CO2
>
> CO2
>
>- Cost effective
>- Smaller tanks than HPA
>- Lighter tanks than HPA
>- Easy to refill (Paintball shop, Sporting Good Store, and Fire 
>Extinguisher Refill stations)
>- Do not require regulators
>- Do not require re-testing and re-certification
>
> Drawbacks
>
>- Cools at it expands - affecting accuracy on extensive rapid fire
>- Cannot be used in cold weather - noticeable dry ice flying from 
>barrel
>- Bottle is inclined to avoid liquid CO2 in marker, freezing O-rings 
>and solenoids. Paintball will break easily when frozen.
>- Danger of bursting the relief valve if the tank is exposed to Sun. 
>Valve will have to be replaced.
>- Should not be overfilled.
>
> Estimated Shots per tank
>
> Shots per tank depends on the velocity of your marker, barrel length, and 
> outside temperature
>  Size 
>
> Weight
>
> Aluminum
>
> (lbs)
> Shots  3.5-oz 0.2 150  9-oz 0.6 350  12-oz 0.75 600  14-oz 0.875 700  
> 16-oz 1.0 800  20-oz 1.25 1100  
>
>  
>
> HPA (High Pressure Air)
>
>- All-weather performance
>- Regulator (allows to know when the tank is full)
>- Can position cylinder in any position
>
> Drawbacks
>
>- Lack of refill stations (Paintball Shops & Scuba Fill Stations)
>- Larger tanks than CO2
>- Heavier than CO2
>- Fewer shots per tank than CO2
>- More expensive to purchase
>- Re-tested and re-certified every 3-5 years ($20-$40)
>
> Estimated Shots per tank
>
> Shots per tank depends on the velocity of your marker, barrel length, and 
> outside temperature
>  Size 
>
> (-cu)
>  
> Weight
>
> Steel
>
> (lbs)
> Shots (psi)  3000  4500  45-cu 2.7 450 675  68-cu 2.3 680 1020  88-cu 
>
> 2.3
>
> Carbon Fiber
> 880 1320  96-cu   960 1440  110

Re: [TANKS] KV-2 feed tray issues

[Jason]

What do the trays look like, if you can try staggering the tapered portion 
where it funnels to a single ball so that it doesn't bridge up. Also, you're 
testing the feeding in a static non moving condition right, remember that the 
tank will be moving and bouncing breaking up blockages
Sent via BlackBerry from T-Mobile

-Original Message-
From: Derek Engelhaupt 
Sender: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com
Date: Tue, 24 Dec 2013 13:59:08 
To: 
Reply-To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com
Subject: [TANKS] KV-2 feed tray issues

OK, I am about to scrap the entire KV-2 turret and convert this thing to
something else.  I'm on my 4th iteration of a paintball tray and none feed
reliably. The problem lies in the height of the gun in the turret, but to
lower it would require a complete rebuild of the turret.  It would be
easier to put a .22 blank firer in this thing and say screw ever thinking
about battling it.  Every time I build a tray, the balls fight to feed and
get stuck getting out of the tray.  It's REALLY pissing me off.  The only
design that feeds reliably involves an inline feed line, but that is too
big to fit in the turret.

Derek

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Re: [TANKS] Hetzer Revelation!

[Jason]

The casemate,  I'd think counting that would be like counting the gun manlet on 
a tank... Rather than its actual armor
Sent via BlackBerry from T-Mobile

-Original Message-
From: TyngTech 
Sender: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com
Date: Fri, 20 Dec 2013 10:46:43 
To: 
Reply-To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com
Subject: [TANKS] Hetzer Revelation!

Just noticed this.  The cast armor gun mounting of the Hetzer sits in a 
cutout in the 60mm thick front plate.  The flanged section that holds this 
assembly in place (marked in red in the photo) appears to be well in excess 
of 10mm in thickness.  The net effect of this is that the Hetzer's max 
armor protection is in excess of 70mm (as defined by Tri-Pact measurement 
practices).  Imagine that!   ;-)

ST




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Re: [TANKS] Re: About time to implement discussed rules update

[Jason]

That's an excellent idea
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-Original Message-
From: Derek Engelhaupt 
Sender: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com
Date: Thu, 19 Dec 2013 13:46:14 
To: 
Reply-To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: [TANKS] Re: About time to implement discussed rules update

The only other thing I can think of is that if people are concerned about
tank/people accidents is have the battlefield marked off.  The operators
would have to keep outside the battle zone ala 1/16 scale tank type
battling.  It would make aiming much harder, engagement distances short,
safe for the operators, decrease the number of shots fired wildly, and
increase tactics.  Of course this might benefit the fast tanks more than
the slower ones.  The engagement boarder could go 360 degrees so you could
somewhat follow your tank around the field.

Just a thought.

Derek


On Thu, Dec 19, 2013 at 1:40 PM, Jason  wrote:

> Why not simply stand a safe distance from a tank in motion. Say like 15ft.
> I say this simply because I don't like seeing every activity getting
> "nerfed" and being regulated when using a bit of common sense would be
> plenty sufficient to bring the same results.
> Distance combined with a deadman switch on the throttle where it chops
> throttles to zero on release I would think would add enough of a buffer to
> maintain safety
> Sent via BlackBerry from T-Mobile
> --
> *From: * TyngTech 
> *Sender: * rctankcombat@googlegroups.com
> *Date: *Thu, 19 Dec 2013 11:18:02 -0800 (PST)
> *To: *
> *ReplyTo: * rctankcombat@googlegroups.com
> *Subject: *Re: [TANKS] Re: About time to implement discussed rules update
>
> I could really care less about the sub 3' tanks.  As you point out, their
> easy enough to take out as any other tank for an experienced battler.  My
> main thoughts are concerning potential 4'+ vehicles.  It's my contention
> that if someone brings one of these to the field one day, we should throw
> them a bone for all the effort in construction and transporting such a
> large paintball target.  My second thought is to set speed limits for
> larger vehicles because as experienced battlers know, a 200 pound beast
> doing 8MPH in the hands of a new driver is just asking for trouble.  I just
> thought it would be nice to address this before some new guy shows up at
> some point with his new 250 pound welded steel 1:6 scale Abrams pushing
> 10MPH.
>
> Giving everything 4/40 is OK with me (yawn).  This fixes the inequity
> foisted upon Joe back in the day, put's my future T-70 on par with the
> Panzer II's, and allows racking up quick an easy points when a 4' monster
> does show up on the field.
>
> Steve "I Care Too Much" Tyng
>
>
>
> On Thursday, December 19, 2013 1:46:35 PM UTC-5, Frank Pittelli wrote:
>>
>> Sure.  But your proposal also makes smaller tanks faster than larger
>> tanks which requires speed enforcement (with all the complexities that
>> come with it) and which clearly provides smaller tanks with an advantage
>> that far outweighs the loss of offense/defense ratings.
>>
>> Derek's suggestion to give 40/4 ratings across the board solves a number
>> of problems discussed in this thread, has no apparent disadvantages, is
>> simple to enforce and (probably) has no un-intended consequences.  Given
>> that Joe has proposed something similar in the past and that Doug feels
>> it would encourage Armored Car development, it's one of those rare
>> proposals that might gain unanimous consent.
>>
>> Regarding the small number of tanks shorter than 36", you are certainly
>> well aware that smallness of size, in itself, doesn't provide a
>> significant advantage.  Anyone who examines the stats compiled for the
>> two identical Panzer IIs will quickly see that size doesn't matter.
>> Moreover, some of the larger tanks take less hits than the smaller ones.
>>   Given that most veterans can shoot soldiers in the head from 20-40
>> feet out also supports the notion that target size is not as important
>> as people want to believe.   Getting rid of the 1:6 scale rule really
>> wouldn't change battle outcomes much at all, but it could cause a lot of
>> harm to people who (a) want to use commercial parts and/or vehicles or
>> (b) want to stay in a common scale because they also do scale modeling.
>>
>> First rule of rule making:  Do no harm.
>>
>> On 12/19/2013 12:14 PM, TyngTech wrote:
>> > If you think about it a bit, my current ratings proposal basically
>> > throws out the 1:6 scale rule and moves us back to the 3' rule BUT adds
>> > additional 2' and 4' 

Re: [TANKS] Re: About time to implement discussed rules update

[Jason]

Why not simply stand a safe distance from a tank in motion. Say like 15ft. I 
say this simply because I don't like seeing every activity getting "nerfed" and 
being regulated when using a bit of common sense would be plenty sufficient to 
bring the same results.  
Distance combined with a deadman switch on the throttle where it chops 
throttles to zero on release I would think would add enough of a buffer to 
maintain safety
Sent via BlackBerry from T-Mobile

-Original Message-
From: TyngTech 
Sender: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com
Date: Thu, 19 Dec 2013 11:18:02 
To: 
Reply-To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: [TANKS] Re: About time to implement discussed rules update

I could really care less about the sub 3' tanks.  As you point out, their 
easy enough to take out as any other tank for an experienced battler.  My 
main thoughts are concerning potential 4'+ vehicles.  It's my contention 
that if someone brings one of these to the field one day, we should throw 
them a bone for all the effort in construction and transporting such a 
large paintball target.  My second thought is to set speed limits for 
larger vehicles because as experienced battlers know, a 200 pound beast 
doing 8MPH in the hands of a new driver is just asking for trouble.  I just 
thought it would be nice to address this before some new guy shows up at 
some point with his new 250 pound welded steel 1:6 scale Abrams pushing 
10MPH.

Giving everything 4/40 is OK with me (yawn).  This fixes the inequity 
foisted upon Joe back in the day, put's my future T-70 on par with the 
Panzer II's, and allows racking up quick an easy points when a 4' monster 
does show up on the field.

Steve "I Care Too Much" Tyng



On Thursday, December 19, 2013 1:46:35 PM UTC-5, Frank Pittelli wrote:
>
> Sure.  But your proposal also makes smaller tanks faster than larger 
> tanks which requires speed enforcement (with all the complexities that 
> come with it) and which clearly provides smaller tanks with an advantage 
> that far outweighs the loss of offense/defense ratings. 
>
> Derek's suggestion to give 40/4 ratings across the board solves a number 
> of problems discussed in this thread, has no apparent disadvantages, is 
> simple to enforce and (probably) has no un-intended consequences.  Given 
> that Joe has proposed something similar in the past and that Doug feels 
> it would encourage Armored Car development, it's one of those rare 
> proposals that might gain unanimous consent. 
>
> Regarding the small number of tanks shorter than 36", you are certainly 
> well aware that smallness of size, in itself, doesn't provide a 
> significant advantage.  Anyone who examines the stats compiled for the 
> two identical Panzer IIs will quickly see that size doesn't matter. 
> Moreover, some of the larger tanks take less hits than the smaller ones. 
>   Given that most veterans can shoot soldiers in the head from 20-40 
> feet out also supports the notion that target size is not as important 
> as people want to believe.   Getting rid of the 1:6 scale rule really 
> wouldn't change battle outcomes much at all, but it could cause a lot of 
> harm to people who (a) want to use commercial parts and/or vehicles or 
> (b) want to stay in a common scale because they also do scale modeling. 
>
> First rule of rule making:  Do no harm. 
>
> On 12/19/2013 12:14 PM, TyngTech wrote: 
> > If you think about it a bit, my current ratings proposal basically 
> > throws out the 1:6 scale rule and moves us back to the 3' rule BUT adds 
> > additional 2' and 4' rules to accommodate current and future 
> abominations. 
>

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Re: [TANKS] Re: About time to implement discussed rules update

[Jason]

Hahaha that is absolutely awesome
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-Original Message-
From: Mike Lyons 
Sender: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com
Date: Wed, 18 Dec 2013 11:51:49 
To: 
Reply-To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: [TANKS] Re: About time to implement discussed rules update

Perhaps this is the future of RCTC?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qL8y8lTjFSQ



On Wednesday, December 18, 2013 2:05:57 PM UTC-5, Jason Kehoe wrote:
>
> By no means am I advocating a tank capable of the obscene speeds of a 
> racing touring car. But I do disagree with the painful plodding pace of 
> 5-7mph Ive seen tossed around.
>
...
>

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Re: [TANKS] Re: The E-100

[Jason]

I take it the rule saying tank has to have been produced is scrapped?
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-Original Message-
From: TyngTech 
Sender: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com
Date: Fri, 13 Dec 2013 08:05:57 
To: 
Reply-To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: [TANKS] Re: The E-100

That PL-01 tank looks like a mild update of the once rumored Panzer II Ausf 
"G" (a Plasticine up-armoured "F").  I say once rumored because it's my 
understanding that the "F" variant (or more like pieces of) have now been 
excavated near Wilhelmstraße 77 Berlin.  I'm sure the elder Pittelli can 
verify this from his private library of arcane German tank technology.  So 
long story short, go ahead and build that "Panzer II" in the uTube video 
and any and all at the battlefield will happily and lovingly sent as much 
paint it's way as humanly possible!

Steve "It's All In The Registered Name" Tyng



On Friday, December 13, 2013 6:03:35 AM UTC-5, fan fan wrote:
>
> Oh come on, those multi-turreted ground cruisers are obviously 
> unmanageable by current rules. But the PL-01 is just a regular tank with 
> different shape.
>
> On Thursday, December 12, 2013 11:56:08 AM UTC-8, TyngTech wrote:
>>
>> Maybe to entice some of the warship crowd into the better side of the 
>> combat hobby, we could allow some of the Naval inspired proto designs.  The 
>> Landcruiser 1000 Ratte comes to mind, a mountain of steel with a heavy 
>> cruiser's turret on top!
>>
>> ST
>>
>>
>> 
>>
>>

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Re: [TANKS] Re: The E-100

[Jason]

The pl-01 like those land cruisers only exists in concept. At least the e100 
was being built if only in the soft steel prototype stages
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-Original Message-
From: fan fan 
Sender: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com
Date: Fri, 13 Dec 2013 03:03:35 
To: 
Reply-To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: [TANKS] Re: The E-100

Oh come on, those multi-turreted ground cruisers are obviously unmanageable 
by current rules. But the PL-01 is just a regular tank with different shape.

On Thursday, December 12, 2013 11:56:08 AM UTC-8, TyngTech wrote:
>
> Maybe to entice some of the warship crowd into the better side of the 
> combat hobby, we could allow some of the Naval inspired proto designs.  The 
> Landcruiser 1000 Ratte comes to mind, a mountain of steel with a heavy 
> cruiser's turret on top!
>
> ST
>
>
> 
>
>

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Re: [TANKS] and what are these vehicles?

[Jason]

All 3 are different vehicles
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-Original Message-
From: odysseyslipw...@aol.com
Sender: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com
Date: Wed, 13 Nov 2013 15:21:03 
To: 
Reply-To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com
Subject: [TANKS] and what are these vehicles?

found these while doing that search but don't know what they are (nor seen  
them before)
 
the top 2 pictures look to be of the same vehicle but from different  
angles, but the 3rd picture is something different.
 
it looks like the same chasse is used for both vehicles
 

http://img.gawkerassets.com/img/17l4hzv69mjtwjpg/xlarge.jpg
 
 
 

http://img.gawkerassets.com/img/17l4hzp9dimpfjpg/original.jpg
 
 
 

http://img.gawkerassets.com/img/17l4gm9jeyn33jpg/ku-xlarge.jpg

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Re: [TANKS] fiberglass resin over Gorilla glue?

[Jason]

Bondo brand type stuff works just fine

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-Original Message-
From: odysseyslipw...@aol.com
Sender: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com
Date: Mon, 19 Aug 2013 13:50:05 
To: 
Reply-To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: [TANKS] fiberglass resin over Gorilla glue?

okay, but now the question is, is what i have (automotive store  bought) 
the epoxy version (i'm guessing so but where would one look on the can  to be 
sure - i'm sure i don't really need to check, but)
 
 
In a message dated 8/19/2013 10:21:06 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
pilo...@comcast.net writes:

epoxy,  used in fiberlass layup will bond with no problems to polyurethane 
glue  (gorilla glue)


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Re: [TANKS] fiberglass resin over Gorilla glue?

[Jason]

Bondo brand type stuff works just fine

Sent via BlackBerry from T-Mobile

-Original Message-
From: odysseyslipw...@aol.com
Sender: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com
Date: Mon, 19 Aug 2013 13:50:05 
To: 
Reply-To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: [TANKS] fiberglass resin over Gorilla glue?

okay, but now the question is, is what i have (automotive store  bought) 
the epoxy version (i'm guessing so but where would one look on the can  to be 
sure - i'm sure i don't really need to check, but)
 
 
In a message dated 8/19/2013 10:21:06 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
pilo...@comcast.net writes:

epoxy,  used in fiberlass layup will bond with no problems to polyurethane 
glue  (gorilla glue)


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Re: [TANKS] Quarter Turn Fasteners

[Jason]

Look for flush mount dzus fasteners with the coin slot to turn
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-Original Message-
From: "l...@fieldofarmortanks.com" 
Sender: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com
Date: Fri, 15 Mar 2013 11:08:13 
To: 
Reply-To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com
Subject: [TANKS] Quarter Turn Fasteners








We are putting together the final touches on our Panther/Jagdpanther RC 
Hull/suspension/Electronics, and I was wondering about the best way to 
quickly separate the UPPER hull from the LOWER hull and access 
electronics/motors/etc.

What have been the "experience" with various products for the gamers, 
considering it has to withstand the hardship of combat vibration and 
impact, and also be easy to access our "inside goodies" for repair and 
maintenance?

I also would be interested with "armor friendly products", because we still 
want our beast to still look like a "beast" of WW II (they did not use 
Philips heads at that time!)

I'm currently looking at the products above, but you guys experience on the 
field would help tremendously!

Cheers from Utah,

Loic
http://www.fieldofarmortanks.com

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Re: [TANKS] Re: Computer modelling of tanks

[Jason]

I do all my design work in solidworks
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-Original Message-
From: Michael Butts 
Sender: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com
Date: Fri, 22 Feb 2013 11:52:58 
To: 
Reply-To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: [TANKS] Re: Computer modelling of tanks

Sketchup it is! Thanks everyone:)
Mike B

On Fri, Feb 22, 2013 at 8:10 AM, TyngTech  wrote:

> If money's no object I highly recommend Rhino, otherwise Sketchup like
> everyone else is recommending.
>
> Steve Tyng
>
>
> On Friday, February 22, 2013 12:50:16 AM UTC-5, Michael Butts wrote:
>>
>> While I am deployed does anyone know of a relatively user friendly
>> modelling software that I could use to plan out a tank? Any CAD type
>> software that would lend itself to being used by a completely inexperienced
>> person? I am reasonably savvy. I just have never had occasion to use such
>> software.
>> Mike B
>>
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Re: [TANKS] 2060 chain

[Jason]

The brackets are the chain sideplates
Sent via BlackBerry from T-Mobile

-Original Message-
From: Alan Crawford 
Sender: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com
Date: Mon, 11 Feb 2013 01:20:35 
To: 
Reply-To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: [TANKS] 2060 chain

I can see that the track boards are riveted to L-brackets, but how are the
L-brackets attached to the chain?

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Re: [TANKS] Re: Gyro stabilizer tests

[Jason]

That's not correct, you won't need a computer radio to utilize a gyro to 
control the turret rotation. And certainly no need for "heli curves" since 
those are strictly for the relationship between throttle and rotor blade pitch. 
 You'd set up the turret gryo like a heading hold gyro on a tail rotor for a 
heli. The gyro is totally set up with the gain and sensitivity adjustments on 
the gyro itself.  A gyro should run about 50+ with heading hold being a bit 
more. That's really all the additional expense it would add
Sent via BlackBerry from T-Mobile

-Original Message-
From: Jacob 
Sender: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com
Date: Sun, 10 Feb 2013 10:18:21 
To: 
Reply-To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: [TANKS] Re: Gyro stabilizer tests

I can tell you from experience that in most cases, you need a very good, 
computer controlled transmitter to take advantage of a gyro setup. I have 
been flying airplanes and helicopters for over 25 years. We have 
experimented with the old futaba ball bearing (mechanical) gyros 20 years 
ago on airplanes. They work, but it takes patience and an extra channel to 
TURN THEM OFF when you dont need them. Same goes for the new 3 axis 
3channel gyros. You really need a very advanced transmitter that can 
program the "heli curves". Im not sure how you would set it up on a ground 
vehicle for gyro stabilization of a turrent that is still attached to 
another body that is doing its own thing. That would take some 
experimentation. That being said. The cheapest futaba radio is $480, and 
the cheapest futaba 3 axis gyro is over $230. I have thousands of dollars 
invested in my helicopters, so it becomes expensive really fast.

On Saturday, February 9, 2013 3:02:47 PM UTC-7, Barbarian wrote:

> Thank you Jason 
>
> thectdb...@hotmail.com 
>
>
> On 2013-02-09, at 5:01 PM, "Jason" > 
> wrote:
>
> Gyros are attached inline with the servo they control, they act as a 
> passthru for user commands but in the absense of thatwill take over the 
> control
> Sent via BlackBerry from T-Mobile
> --
> *From: * Robert Currie > 
> *Sender: * rctank...@googlegroups.com  
> *Date: *Sat, 9 Feb 2013 16:58:42 -0500
> *To: *rctank...@googlegroups.com <
> rctankcombat@googlegroups.com >
> *ReplyTo: * rctank...@googlegroups.com  
> *Subject: *Re: [TANKS] Re: Gyro stabilizer tests
>
> Thank you for your reply Steve when I do install the gyros I will be sure 
> to not make things sloppy 
> I found that we had this conversation back in 2008 I figured that someone 
> might have tried it by now 
> I was just wondering will you need extra channels to use a gyro or is it 
> hooked up in line with a servo?  
>
> thectdb...@hotmail.com 
>
>
> On 2013-02-09, at 4:12 PM, "TyngTech" > 
> wrote:
>
> The limited testing that was done under less than ideal conditions showed 
> that the idea may have merit.  There was some drift in the testing.  IMO, 
> someone needs to just install a gyro on their tank and see how it goes on 
> the battlefield.
>
> ST
>
>
> On Thursday, February 7, 2013 8:16:06 PM UTC-5, Barbarian wrote:
>>
>> I was wondering how the gyro stabilizer   Tests went mentioned by Joe   
>>
>> thectdb...@hotmail.com 
>>
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&

Re: [TANKS] Re: Gyro stabilizer tests

[Jason]

Gyros are attached inline with the servo they control, they act as a passthru 
for user commands but in the absense of thatwill take over the control
Sent via BlackBerry from T-Mobile

-Original Message-
From: Robert Currie 
Sender: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com
Date: Sat, 9 Feb 2013 16:58:42 
To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com
Reply-To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: [TANKS] Re: Gyro stabilizer tests

Thank you for your reply Steve when I do install the gyros I will be sure to 
not make things sloppy 
I found that we had this conversation back in 2008 I figured that someone might 
have tried it by now 
I was just wondering will you need extra channels to use a gyro or is it hooked 
up in line with a servo?  

thectdbarbar...@hotmail.com


On 2013-02-09, at 4:12 PM, "TyngTech"  wrote:

> The limited testing that was done under less than ideal conditions showed 
> that the idea may have merit.  There was some drift in the testing.  IMO, 
> someone needs to just install a gyro on their tank and see how it goes on the 
> battlefield.
> 
> ST
> 
> 
> On Thursday, February 7, 2013 8:16:06 PM UTC-5, Barbarian wrote:
>> 
>> I was wondering how the gyro stabilizer   Tests went mentioned by Joe   
>> 
>> thectdb...@hotmail.com
> 
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Re: [TANKS] Re: New T34 build

[Jason]

That's not entirely true, a higher amp hour rated battery can safely handle a 
higher discharge current. Discharging a battery creates heat, you discharge too 
long and too fast and you'll cook the battery
Sent via BlackBerry from T-Mobile

-Original Message-
From: TyngTech 
Sender: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com
Date: Thu, 31 Jan 2013 10:45:26 
To: 
Reply-To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com
Subject: [TANKS] Re: New T34 build

Amp hours does not relate to the current carrying capacity of your 
batteries.  Think of it as fuel capacity.  The more AH's you carry the 
longer your run time.

Steve


On Thursday, January 31, 2013 12:16:37 PM UTC-5, Jacob wrote:
>
> I am having to adjust the sizing as I am going along. Its a bit of a test 
> bed/BOX to get my sizing figured out. Not exactly the most smart way of 
> building it, but I will unscrew and trim down the box to closer to the 
> plans dimensions as I go along. One thing I did change was to put in 3/4" 
> plywood on the floor because I didnt believe that 1/2" birch was strong 
> enough for the batteries. Now I need to decide what size batteries to use. 
> I was going to use 35ah batteries but am now wondering if 25ah batteries 
> would be better. I am worried that my motors draw too much current because 
> the original batteries are 55AH batteries. I realize that that is so that a 
> 300-400lb human can be driven all day long in a wheelchair, so I am 
> wondering if its overkill for my tank. What you think? 
>
> On Wednesday, January 30, 2013 2:40:46 PM UTC-7, Jacob wrote:
>
>> I just started my new T34 tank build. One thing that I had to do was 
>> increase the inside width by about 5" to 17 3/4" in order to accommodate my 
>> wheelchair motors and the 35ah batteries that are 7 1/2" wide each. It also 
>> means that my tank will be just under 48" long when adjusted for scale 
>> size. I realize that its not quite an exact scale conversion in length vs 
>> width, but plywood comes in 48" so thats what I am using.. Nice birch 
>> hardwood plywood. Time to start the tablesaw up :)...
>
>

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Re: [TANKS] Radio and receivers

[Jason]

The only difference between an "air" radio and a "surface" radio is the 
frequency it operates on. That said most if not all futaba radios have been 
available in both frequency sets, they may not be sitting on a shelf at the 
local hobby store but they should be able to order one for you
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-Original Message-
From: Robert Currie 
Sender: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com
Date: Sun, 13 Jan 2013 12:51:51 
To: 
Reply-To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com
Subject: [TANKS] Radio and receivers



thectdbarbar...@hotmail.com

  Hi I am at the point of looking into a 6 channel radio and two receivers one 
for the hull and one for the turret I notice that more and more radios are air 
oriented are there good quality surface radios out there like futaba or hitec 
that anyone would recommend ? Any help would be appreciated they all seem to be 
computer this and that

Are there any  RC Tank Combat or CTD Canadian Barbarians on Facebook? Look me 
up Robert Donald Currie 

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Re: [TANKS] what is that?

[Jason]

Specially built transport trailer used by thee brits after capturing the E100 
chassis
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-Original Message-
From: odysseyslipw...@aol.com
Sender: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com
Date: Sun, 6 Jan 2013 23:08:55 
To: 
Reply-To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com
Subject: [TANKS] what is that?

_Click  here: 1 35 E 100 Track Link Set by Friulmodel ATL 120 | eBay_ 
(http://www.ebay.com/itm/1-35-E-100-TRACK-LINK-SET-by-FRIULMODEL-ATL-120-/27113089
7803?pt=Model_Kit_US&hash=item3f20a92d8b)  what exactly is  that under the 
tank? is it some over the road transport or maybe something used  within the 
assembly plant?
 
Chris

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Re: [TANKS] Sprockets for MY1016Z3 Motor

[Jason]

Rather than having the keyway broached, why not look into having it wire edm cut

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-Original Message-
From: Andy Kipp 
Sender: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com
Date: Mon, 3 Dec 2012 20:17:00 
To: 
Reply-To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com
Subject: [TANKS] Sprockets for MY1016Z3 Motor

Folks,

I'm in the process of making some sprockets for the MY1016Z3 motor.
They are 10 tooth ANSI #35 chain sprockets with an 11MM bore and 4MM
keyway. I am doing them on a CNC so its pretty easy for me to
reproduce the sprocket. The spockets are made of free machining steel
(12L14).

However, the keyway broach and collar is going to set me back a few
hundred bucks, so if anyone would requires this sprocket, let me know
as I can make a few extra and sell them to offset the cost of the
broach set.

Attached is a drawing and SolidWorks model. Pardon the bad drawing, I
made it up really quick as I figured not everyone had SolidWorks.

-Andy

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Re: [TANKS] MAG Skunkworks finale

[Jason]

500deg is below the eutectic point for steel, no need to quench in oil or 
water, air is perfectly fine
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-Original Message-
From: "Doug Conn" 
Sender: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com
Date: Thu, 22 Nov 2012 21:54:38 
To: 
Reply-To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com
Subject: RE: [TANKS] MAG Skunkworks finale

I let them cool down in air. I never tried quenching them, but I'm afraid
they might get brittle.

 

-  Doug

 

From: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com [mailto:rctankcombat@googlegroups.com]
On Behalf Of jvragu47
Sent: Thursday, November 22, 2012 11:17 AM
To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: [TANKS] MAG Skunkworks finale

 

Doug,
   So after baking in the oven for an hour, did you oil quench them
or let them cool gradually?

John

On Wednesday, November 21, 2012 9:26:16 PM UTC-5, RocketMan wrote:

Try this.

 

http://www.rctankcombat.com/articles/torsion-springs/

 

 

 

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Re: [TANKS] ;^]

[Jason]

Looks like you threw a track

Sent via BlackBerry from T-Mobile

-Original Message-
From: Buck Cronk 
Sender: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com
Date: Fri, 12 Oct 2012 19:27:38 
To: 
Reply-To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: [TANKS] ;^]

lol

On Fri, Oct 12, 2012 at 2:22 PM, Aaron  wrote:

>  _
>   _ /__*___\Bang!
>  /_\
> (O  *   *   * O)
>  \O_O_O_O_O_O/
>
> --
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Re: [TANKS] marker velocity

[Jason]

PB chronos are cheap and easy hand held on a lanyard type things even.

As for increasing velocity aside from the velocity screw you can increase input 
ppressure from the regulator

Jason
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-Original Message-
From: "Doug Conn" 
Sender: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com
Date: Sun, 7 Oct 2012 15:25:56 
To: 
Reply-To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com
Subject: [TANKS] marker velocity

At the last battle, Will commented that he thought my marker velocity was
low. I just checked it with the chrono and I was able to adjust it up to
about 220 fps. I know the higher the velocity the better (up to 300 fps,
anyway), but how much of a factor is this ? Aside from the velocity
adjustment screw, is there any way to beef up the pop ?

 

While we're on this topic, quite a while ago I saw Steve or Will with a
paintball chrono that just needed to touched to the marker barrel while
firing to take a measurement. The chrono I have now is a general purpose one
that can be used for firearms, archery, paintball, etc. It's versatile but
kind of a pain to set up. Is anyone familiar with the paintball chrono I
described ? Does it cost a fortune ?

 

  Thanks a lot,

  Doug

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Re: [TANKS] Dragon's Teeth - info request

[Jason]

Wikipedia says 3-4 ft tall...
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-Original Message-
From: odysseyslipw...@aol.com
Sender: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com
Date: Mon, 17 Sep 2012 21:16:09 
To: 
Reply-To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: [TANKS] Dragon's Teeth - info request

 
 
In a message dated 9/17/2012 3:44:07 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
tan...@gmail.com writes:

Dragon's  teeth varied in size and shape depending on who/which country 
made them.  So as long as they are close, they would be believable.  


Derek




but that's just it, i have no sizes to go by
 
Chris

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Re: [TANKS] lathe question

[Jason]

No you are doing something wrong my guess is that your crossfeed isn't squared 
to the axis of the workpiece

Also make sure that the cutting edge is on center to the workpiece height or 
just slightly below, below will leaves a small tit os material but that little 
bit is easily filed off or faced off with a second op
Sent via BlackBerry from T-Mobile

-Original Message-
From: "Doug Conn" 
Sender: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com
Date: Tue, 7 Aug 2012 23:07:45 
To: 
Reply-To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com
Subject: [TANKS] lathe question

Hello -

 

I have another 'Machining 101' question. I have a parting tool for my
mini-lathe just like the one shown below. The bit sits in it a few degrees
off from vertical. When I use it, the parted piece has a convex,
cone-shaped, face. I want a straight, clean, cut. Is this the normal
construction for parting tools ? Am I using it wrong ? Is this the wrong
parting tool for me ?

 

I appreciate any advice.

 

  Thanks a lot,

  Doug

 

HF_tool.jpg (20563 bytes)

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<>

Re: [TANKS] Re: looking to step up to plastic injection

[Jason]

The water fits inbetween the molecules, while not porus like wood or paper per 
say. By weight it can only absorb like 2pct so 100lbs of nylon could only hold 
like 2 lbs of water (1qt) 
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-Original Message-
From: odysseyslipw...@aol.com
Sender: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com
Date: Sat, 28 Jul 2012 12:46:35 
To: 
Reply-To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: [TANKS] Re: looking to step up to plastic injection

then what makes/allows nylon to absorb what?
 
Chris

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Re: [TANKS] Re: looking to step up to plastic injection

[Jason]

No not hardly

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-Original Message-
From: odysseyslipw...@aol.com
Sender: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com
Date: Sat, 28 Jul 2012 12:38:47 
To: 
Reply-To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: [TANKS] Re: looking to step up to plastic injection

so nylon is very porous? 
 
Chris

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Re: [TANKS] Re: looking to step up to plastic injection

[Jason]

Back in the earlier days of rc cars and racing the parts used to be molded in 
white nylon, owners would dye their parts all manner of different colors.  The 
dying process had 2 effects, the primary was the color change ehich is what 
they were going for, the secondary and probably more beneficial is it made the 
nylon parts less brittle and prone to fracture in a crash, allowing the car to 
stay in the race.
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-Original Message-
From: "Tom M." 
Sender: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com
Date: Sat, 28 Jul 2012 06:05:15 
To: 
Reply-To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: [TANKS] Re: looking to step up to plastic injection

 

Nylon does adsorb some water up to about 2% of it's weight under some 
conditions but, it can loose it again. Now this can work for you as Rit dye 
then can be adsorbed into the surface of the part(s). When submerged into 
hot water with a dye it and then when the water leaves the part the dye 
stays behind.


 
*http://www.bmx-forum.com/t/183272/how-to-dye-your-plastic-parts-with-pics*


 Or search the topic “how to dye nylon parts”. There are a bunch of video's 
on how to do this.
Tom M.

On Friday, July 27, 2012 4:36:21 PM UTC-4, odyssey...@aol.com wrote:

>   In a message dated 7/27/2012 2:58:37 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, 
> pilo...@comcast.net writes:
>
> its very low though and not like its gonna get waterlogged like wood does
>
> i'm not planning on leaving the tank somewhere to grow roots
>  
> Chris
>

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Re: [TANKS] What is this???

[Jason]

Stuff like the stalin organ etc...
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-Original Message-
From: Buck 
Sender: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com
Date: Mon, 9 Jul 2012 10:29:58 
To: 
Reply-To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com
Subject: [TANKS] What is this???

I've been wondering for a long time now... what in the world is the "rocket 
launchers" part of the website for?

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Re: [TANKS] Re: a GREAT problem to have

[Jason]

Didn't someone build a ride in marder2 ...
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-Original Message-
From: TyngTech 
Sender: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com
Date: Wed, 27 Jun 2012 10:32:38 
To: 
Reply-To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com
Subject: [TANKS] Re: a GREAT problem to have

I have never considered modifying a framing nailer to shoot sporting 
equipment so can't help you there.

I'm hoping you realize that a 300 pound golf ball spewing fantasy tank 
falls a bit outside the rule-set so won't be sanctioned to compete at any 
of our events.  Though it would be fun to see it running around (behind a 
suitable piece of lexan).

Steve Tyng


On Tuesday, June 26, 2012 6:25:41 PM UTC-4, Dirk Pitt wrote:
>
> I seem to have made a wee small miscalculation when designing my tank.
>
> problem #1, too much power.  i have hooked up an air compressor and a 2 
> gal bottle, coupled that with a framing gun(slightly modified) and have 
> somehow managed to destroy most ammunition that fits in the barrel.
>
> problem #2, too big a barrel.  I have a 2 inch (yes 2.00 cal) barrel to 
> shoot out of.  so far, golf balls and hard base balls are the only things 
> that fit inside.  but the framing gun pierces them.
>
> so a dilemma.  dial down the power and sacrifice range, or smaller 
> projectile, and less threatening.  not sure which would be worse.  anybody 
> out there know any easy solutions?  I am running out of money too, so 
> budget and items on hand are my ways at the moment.  I am a contractor, so 
> I have a lot of tools at my disposal to modify.
>
> Dirk
>

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Re: [TANKS] Re: Gas powered tanks (Yet again)

[Jason]

Actually... The german tanks were generally petrol, much like the american 
tanks of the period, the russians used diesel
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-Original Message-
From: Gregory Kampjes 
Sender: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com
Date: Sat, 23 Jun 2012 11:49:41 
To: 
Reply-To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: [TANKS] Re: Gas powered tanks (Yet again)

Someone should hit up Dave Manson and get him to buy it, but I guess he's
too busy making the big stuff to care about such small things like this.
Personally I agree with Steve, keep 1/6 electric. Petrol power is for the
realms of human transport, not Action Man transport. I also wouldn't want
to see petrol power in such a confined, sealed space, there's a reason that
the German tanks were diesel, petrol has a tendency to explode.

-Gregory

On Sat, Jun 23, 2012 at 10:09 AM, Derek Engelhaupt  wrote:

> Oh, they also have the M36 Jackson available.
>
> Derek
>
>
> On Fri, Jun 22, 2012 at 5:08 PM, Derek Engelhaupt wrote:
>
>> Yes, you can get it with electric motors instead of gas.
>>
>> Derek
>>
>>
>> On Fri, Jun 22, 2012 at 4:42 PM, Kurt  wrote:
>>
>>> Doesn't Fu yuan offer the same tank in electric also ?
>>>
>>> Kurt
>>>
>>> Sent from my iPad
>>>
>>> On Jun 22, 2012, at 1:48 PM, pilo...@comcast.net wrote:
>>>
>>> found their main site
>>> 
>>> http://www.fuyuanrc.com/en/dept.asp?id=106&mfr=135
>>>
>>> supposedly a 3.2" (80mm) wading depth!!!
>>>
>>> they also list a ton of parts available for them and claim that the
>>> gearboxes are all steel gears
>>>
>>> i dunno why anyone would want one though
>>>
>>> --
>>> *From: *"TyngTech" 
>>> *To: *rctankcombat@googlegroups.com
>>> *Sent: *Friday, June 22, 2012 3:31:55 PM
>>> *Subject: *[TANKS] Re: Gas powered tanks  (Yet again)
>>>
>>> For a thousand bucks you get a two stroke weed-wacker engine, an overly
>>> complicated transmission of dubious durability, a radiator and electric
>>> cooling fan, gas and coolant stowage/delivery systems, 6 channel radio,
>>> servo actuated mechanical transmission linkages, servo actuated
>>> micro-switches (for what I don't know), a stated aluminum track and running
>>> gear, and a very nice looking  hull.
>>>
>>> Why anybody finds this preferable to a simple electric setup I'll never
>>> understand.
>>>
>>> Steve Tyng
>>>
>>>
>>> On Thursday, June 21, 2012 6:32:40 PM UTC-4, Alex wrote:

 Looks like someone has solved all the old arguments against gas powered
 tanks and cheaply to


 http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/230812368638?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649

 Just my humble opinion


 Regards

 Alex

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>>
>>
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Re: [TANKS] Re: I say we do allow....

[Jason]

I don't think the fire risk is as great as its thought to be. Thousands of 
weedwackers are used daily. I raced nitro powered rc touring cars for a number 
of years and still fly rc planes powered by nitro engines and had some truly 
terrific crashed with both, including shattered 10oz fuel tanks from the planes 
and twisting tumbling crashes at around 60mph with the touring cars.
 nitro fuel is about 70pct alcohol 20pct nitromethane and 10pct oil and I've 
never had a fire from any of them despite spraying it everywhere on hot 
engines. 

Is there a fire risk? Sure there is, its there in the tanks using electrical as 
well. Lead acid batteries emit hydrogen gas when charging, charge then in an 
enclosed tank add a spark and boom, lithium battery poweres tanks(LiPo 
specifically) have a significant fire risk and that's one that is all but 
impossible to extinguish without burying it in sand.

There are risks with all of the power sources, but I don't think they should be 
blindly ruled out

Jason
Sent via BlackBerry from T-Mobile

-Original Message-
From: Fred Thomson 
Sender: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com
Date: Sat, 26 May 2012 09:33:40 
To: R/C Tank Combat
Reply-To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com
Subject: [TANKS] Re: I say we do allow

I agree with Kurt. I will design and build my tanks to stay within the
rules. There are a number of reasons for this:

1. Safety.
2. Between them, what you guys have jokingly referred to as The
Elders,
they have a ton of experience in this hobby that can be counted in
DECADES.
This means that if you think of it, chances are it has been discussed
or
tried already. I'm smart enough to listen and learn.  :-)
3. Because one day, the Central Alberta Division of The Northern
Barbarians
will arrive on the battle field down south. Call it *Invasion Plans*
and if
the tanks aren't compliant, ya can't battle. It would SUCK to drive
that
far towing a trailer full of armor, to have to watch from the
sidelines.
4. Did I mention Safety? Hundreds of hours building your tank, $$$
investment in components, + one spark in your gasoline powered beast =
A
Priceless YouTube video.


 On the subject of "List of Approved Tanks", I can see problems. Who
maintains The List? Who decides on additions, deletions, etc?

 Why not shift the burden of proof to the prospective builder? It
would then be up to the builder to provide proof (which is easily
verified) that at least a "working" prototype was built when
submitting for a designation (min of rolling chassis, if memory serves
me). That should keep the signal to noise ratio (Hey I wann
designation for my Mech Warrior - 75Th level Wizard hybrid!!) down.

Cheers,
Fred

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Re: [TANKS] Re: Education + Work = Tanks

[Jason]

IR at very high power can heat things, its also invisible to the human eye

IR that you'd be using is on order of a TV remote... Perfectly harmless
Sent via BlackBerry from T-Mobile

-Original Message-
From: TyngTech 
Sender: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com
Date: Tue, 1 May 2012 13:12:32 
To: 
Reply-To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: [TANKS] Re: Education + Work = Tanks

I don't know about these IR systems.  Doesn't IR mean infra-red?  Don't 
they cook stuff with that?  Couldn't it cause burns or something?  And I'm 
sure those things are blinking on and off all the time.  Couldn't that 
cause seizures like those Japanese cartoons  Has anybody dis-proven the 
possible skin cancer side affects of IR???  Just asking...

Steve "Mr. Safety" Tyng;-)



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Re: [TANKS] Re: Education + Work = Tanks

[Jason]

I saw a universal system not too long ago not by tamiya. Ill see if I can find 
it whenn I get home
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-Original Message-
From: Neil Rochford 
Sender: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com
Date: Sat, 28 Apr 2012 06:31:00 
To: 
Reply-To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com
Subject: [TANKS] Re: Education + Work = Tanks

Phil - I am very interested in lasertag,especially for the school project.
I have no Idea about cost or where to buy so please can anyone fill me in. 
Im
hoping it could even be cheaper than paintball.
What ever info you can give me I`ll be very happy to receive.
Im also considering reto fitting lasertag to my existing tanks but
keeping the option of quickly refitting back to paintball
so that I can still compete in RCTC battles. 

Steve- I was thinking of Fiberglass only as a requirement to hold vac 
formed plastic together , 
from what Doug tells me that wont be needed. I might use some ply, and some 
vac formed plastic.

Chris - The school would not let me do anything dangerous even if I was 
stupid enough to want to. 
every detail has to be planned out and risk assessments produced. 
Im doing a paintball tank demo in a week or two for the students. 
It has to be in area with a stiff wire fence with gaps of 10mm with all the 
gates locked with the kids on the other side
and i`ve just been sent on a 3 day course to become a first aider.  They 
take no chances.

John the elder - I am as always very happy to receive further help from 
across the pond. A link of these plans would be 
very fine indeed.

Doug Smith - cheers ! 

thanks for the help everyone , Im lost for words 

Neil "  " R


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Re: [TANKS] what doesn't fiberglass bond to?

[Jason]

If you're gonna do that, do it all at once don't let the resin harden on the 
hull alone. When it cures there's a waxy film that is created and a second 
layer can delaminate because of it.  You'll have to degrease with alcohol and 
rough scuff with 80grit sandpaper vs just laying it all at once and having the 
resin all molecularly linked
Sent via BlackBerry from T-Mobile

-Original Message-
From: odysseyslipw...@aol.com
Sender: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com
Date: Tue, 7 Feb 2012 10:43:37 
To: 
Reply-To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: [TANKS] what doesn't fiberglass bond to?

i was even thinking of something like that as this isn't that heavy weight  
glass cloth i'l be using. i was thinking drill the holes, then resin coat 
the  hull, letting the hull suck up what it can, sealing the wood for the 
most part  and then give it 2 layers of the cloth, then take either a dremal 
grinding  bit of sorts of a sharp hobby knife and remove the covered over 
holes and clean  them up as need be. as i was thinking the same thing that 
having a plug to work  around will cause some of the cloth to raise up around 
it.
 
Chris

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Re: [TANKS] what doesn't fiberglass bond to?

[Jason]

Delrin on its own won't bond well to the resin.  By heat sealing it I mean take 
a torch and run the flame over it quickly to smooth over and small grooves or 
scratches.
Sent via BlackBerry from T-Mobile

-Original Message-
From: odysseyslipw...@aol.com
Sender: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com
Date: Sun, 5 Feb 2012 23:07:24 
To: 
Reply-To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: [TANKS] what doesn't fiberglass bond to?

sorry, i meant that delrin by itself.
 
but i will keep the milk jug idea in mind
 
Chris

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Re: [TANKS] what doesn't fiberglass bond to?

[Jason]

Delrin will be a very weak bond, easily peelable. Milk jug plastic is easily 
formed, with some heat, a heat gun for instance, heat seal the delrin and 
you'll be fine
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-Original Message-
From: odysseyslipw...@aol.com
Sender: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com
Date: Sun, 5 Feb 2012 14:34:07 
To: 
Reply-To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: [TANKS] what doesn't fiberglass bond to?

 
 
In a message dated 2/5/2012 2:21:45 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
pilo...@comcast.net writes:

Also it  won't bond to milk jug plastic


didn't know that. guess I could try to cut, heat and form it onto a  piece 
of wooden dowel.
 
i was even wondering about delon (sp?)
 
Chris

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Re: [TANKS] what doesn't fiberglass bond to?

[Jason]

Resin will bond to most everything, plug with wax, wax paper can be peeled with 
limited results... Also it won't bond to milk jug plastic
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-Original Message-
From: odysseyslipw...@aol.com
Sender: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com
Date: Sun, 5 Feb 2012 10:30:43 
To: 
Reply-To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com
Subject: [TANKS] what doesn't fiberglass bond to?

while the Tiger was getting a face lift yesterday, we were talking about  
when i glass it and the holes for the road wheel arms. He said i should drill 
 them first (all ready figured that), but suggested i use a plug afterwards 
where  i drilled and then remove the plug after glassing. he thinks the 
resin won't  bond to heavy packaging tape.
 
i do like the idea of marking and drilling everything while the hull is  
still bare and square before glassing as then it would be just a matter of 
minor  cleaning up afterwards and inserting the oil-lite bushings (come to 
think  of it, i guess i should put together my shopping list for the rear axles 
and  bearings - front will get the adjustable tensioner arms)
 
Chris

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Re: [TANKS] Re: Could someone help me with this please ?

[Jason]

The last one was a jackson eqc(125 dollar range) with adjustable shades.  
Currently I've got a speedglas 9100( about 500+ dollars I think) that is 
working as it should. I just don't trust the electronic ones fully because of 
the less that total reliability I've experienced with them, once your eyes are 
screwed up that's it no do-overs
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-Original Message-
From: Neil Rochford 
Sender: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com
Date: Thu, 2 Feb 2012 03:34:58 
To: 
Reply-To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: [TANKS] Re: Could someone help me with this please ?

Shall we be a little more precise here . Jason what make/model has turned 
off on you half way through a weld? and Todj what make/model have you been 
happy with ?

After doing a small amount of ( very poor ) arc welding I think I`d like to 
have a try on a MIG . 
I`ll keep the arc welder for thick stuff, 6mm+ . My attempt at welding 
1.5mm mild steel with a 3mm electrode didnt go so well.

Neil "Not putting photos on here just yet" R

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Re: [TANKS] Re: Could someone help me with this please ?

[Jason]

An auto darkening at that low of a pricepoint will be crap, I speak from 
experience, and there is NOTHING worse than when it turns off mid weld
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-Original Message-
From: "keith_jackso...@btinternet.com" 
Sender: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com
Date: Tue, 31 Jan 2012 17:34:26 
To: 
Reply-To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: [TANKS] Re: Could someone help me with this please ?

Have you thought about a solar powered auto-varioshade welding helmet,they
are about £50,but excellent for a novice. keith
 

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Re: [TANKS] Re: Could someone help me with this please ?

[Jason]

For a new welder I think shade 11 is too light, you shouldn't be able to see 
anything sheild down, arc off. Once you get the arc your eyes will adjust and 
you can see more, there's also not a lot that you would want to see. There's 
also a lot to learn to recognize from what you can see and how to read the 
puddle.  I've been welding for better than 5 years and anything less than shade 
12/13 gives me headaches, and I've even been known to wear sunglasses under the 
hood with a 13 plate in it
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-Original Message-
From: Neil Rochford 
Sender: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com
Date: Tue, 31 Jan 2012 06:31:46 
To: 
Reply-To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: [TANKS] Re: Could someone help me with this please ?

more good advice thanks, 
I`ve done an inch or two of welding along a piece of 1.5mm bar ,havnt 
actually joined anything together yet,
it took about 40 very bad attempt's and I blow a hole in the end of it but 
I feel like I`ve made a small step into a new world. I started with the 
Amps on lowest and after each desaster I turned up until I created a steady 
arc.
Im using a No 11 shield I`ve put a lamp near the work piece and I still 
cant see a dam thing.
This is as hard as people have said it would be but Im making some progress 
after half an hour.
Neil R

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Re: [TANKS] Re: modern tanks, fabricated parts

[Jason]

Very little will stick to HDPE, go try and glue something securely to a plastic 
milk bottle if you truly need proof.

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-Original Message-
From: Loren 
Sender: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com
Date: Thu, 5 Jan 2012 11:12:14 
To: R/C Tank Combat
Reply-To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com
Subject: [TANKS] Re: modern tanks, fabricated parts

I'll have to look into the price difference.  I've read about HDPE as
far as durability, that was what I was looking at.

Did a quick search, didn't bring much up I didn't already know about,
1/8 scale is hard to find.  If you can find me more links I'd love
it(plastic panzers was new, but such is rare that I can see).  So, I'm
looking more to do this, the way I'm planning is to have zero
inventory--I make things as I get orders, which will simplify some
things but adds a set amount of time to order fulfillment.  There
would also be a design charge to design something besides the set
inventory I'm planning, if you want something odd, I'll make it, but
it'll cost more, of course.

I was looking at a 3D printer for small details, like machine guns and
such.  THink there'd be much interest in that?

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[TANKS] high current electrical components

[Jason R Schafer]

I am trying to find some electrical components but am having some
difficulty.

I am using two 450w 24v motors for drive.
I am thinking of using a Bussmann JT60060 fuse holder for circuit
protection ... what are you using?  450W/24V=18.75A*2 motors=37.5A*1.5=56.25
is a 60A fuse appropriate?
What are you using for a switch/disconnect?  I cannot find anything
reasonably priced that is rated for 60A.  I would prefer something DIN
mountable.

Thanks,
Jason

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Re: [TANKS] Dirt cheap microcontroller development system

[Jason R Schafer]

I received notice this week that mine shipped.  Has anybody worked with them
yet?

Jason
On Tue, Dec 21, 2010 at 8:04 AM, Doug Conn  wrote:

> I picked up a couple of these to play around with. It's hard to beat the
> price. I'm still trying to see if I can get it to act as a USB device -
> that's my need. That feature is easy on an Arduino, but those cost $30
> instead of $4.30.
>
>- Doug
>
> -Original Message-
> From: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com [mailto:rctankcom...@googlegroups.com]
> On Behalf Of HV
> Sent: Tuesday, December 21, 2010 8:18 AM
> To: R/C Tank Combat
> Subject: [TANKS] Dirt cheap microcontroller development system
>
> I see that Texas Instruments offers a complete microcontroller
> development system for $4.30. I haven't looked at the price of the MCU
> chips themselves, but I assume they cost only cents. Apologies if
> someone already posted about this.
>
> http://tinyurl.com/34yc2ge
>
> I would like to use this for upgrading my $10 infrared battle system
> to a customizable system. My current system has only one detector and
> a 180-degree field of view. It needs a 360 degree FOV. I would also
> like to use a brighter LED and larger lens diameter to get longer
> range than the current 100 feet.
>
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[TANKS] Tiger weight range

[Jason R Schafer]

I am looking for some info for a friend who is building a tiger.  Those
who have completed tigers - what is the weight of your tank?

Thanks,
Jason

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Re: [TANKS] tensioner

[Jason R Schafer]

so the spring loaded idler on everyones tank is just to assist in getting
the tracks on?  huh, here I had assumed it was necessary to maintain track
tension through the range of suspension travel ... well that makes things
easier

On Tue, Nov 16, 2010 at 3:16 PM, Ben Holko  wrote:

>  Throwing tracks can be caused by the wrong tension, but in my experience
> I think it’s more to do with the sideways flex in the track system – when
> turning this can throw the alignment off enough to “de-rail” the track.
>
>
>
> Ben
>
>
>
>
>
> *From:* rctankcombat@googlegroups.com [mailto:
> rctankcom...@googlegroups.com] *On Behalf Of *Jason R Schafer
> *Sent:* Wednesday, 17 November 2010 4:48 AM
> *To:* rctankcombat@googlegroups.com
> *Subject:* Re: [TANKS] tensioner
>
>
>
> I was referring to an active idler that takes takes up slack during track
> movement.  Those who have issues throwing tracks - is it due to suspension
> travel or neutral turns?  Do you have an active idler system?
>
>
>
> Will I like your Su100 setup do you think it will work for conveyor belt
> tracks?
>
> On Sat, Nov 13, 2010 at 8:12 AM,  wrote:
>
> The Su100 has been running suspension without a tensioner . It uses 2060
> chain . I can remove the chain by removing the road wheels. Which gives
> enough slack to pull the chain over the idler wheel.
>
> Will
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> -Original Message-
> From: Jason R Schafer 
> To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com
> Sent: Wed, Nov 10, 2010 7:45 pm
> Subject: [TANKS] tensioner
>
> Is anybody running a tank with suspension and no tensioner on the idler?
> Just curious if this is at all feasible.
>
> --
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>
>
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Re: [TANKS] tensioner

[Jason R Schafer]

I was referring to an active idler that takes takes up slack during track
movement.  Those who have issues throwing tracks - is it due to suspension
travel or neutral turns?  Do you have an active idler system?

Will I like your Su100 setup do you think it will work for conveyor belt
tracks?

On Sat, Nov 13, 2010 at 8:12 AM,  wrote:

> The Su100 has been running suspension without a tensioner . It uses 2060
> chain . I can remove the chain by removing the road wheels. Which gives
> enough slack to pull the chain over the idler wheel.
>
> Will
>
>
>
>   -Original Message-
> From: Jason R Schafer 
> To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com
> Sent: Wed, Nov 10, 2010 7:45 pm
> Subject: [TANKS] tensioner
>
>   Is anybody running a tank with suspension and no tensioner on the
> idler?  Just curious if this is at all feasible.
> --
> You are currently subscribed to the "R/C Tank Combat" group.
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[TANKS] tensioner

[Jason R Schafer]

Is anybody running a tank with suspension and no tensioner on the idler?
Just curious if this is at all feasible.

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Re: [TANKS] Re: motor

[Jason R Schafer]

Thank you for the info Neil and Steve, it is a huge help with my design.
The EV Warrior is a 950W motor?!!!  Wow and its about the same size as the
250W motor I was looking at ... how did they accomplish that with the EV?
Are there any comparable motors available?  I was planning on using 8x 6v
12Ah batteries - which would be around 30% of the weight of the finished
tank.  I think this will give me almost an hour of run time (if I used two
250W motors).  How many Ah of battery capacity do you have and what is your
average run time?  What is the weight of your tank without batteries?

Thanks again for the help!
Jason



On Mon, Nov 8, 2010 at 1:37 PM, Steve Tyng  wrote:

> Jason,
>
> The Cromwell (T040) is running two 950watt motors (EV Warriors at
> 24v).  Until this year I was running at over 8mph (have geared it down
> since).  The TTS (conveyor belt tracks ) are still holding together on
> its 6th year of battling. Your 7.3mph max speed figure is unrealistic
> for 250W motors.  A more realistic figure for this wattage is around
> 3mph.
>
>
> Steve Tyng
>
>
> On Nov 4, 9:04 pm, Jason R Schafer  wrote:
> > I'm just looking for a gut check - are there any tanks in the low 100 lb
> > range running around this speed with this motor size?  Will conveyor belt
> > tracks live at this speed?  Is 115 lbs realistic for a tank this size?
> >
> > On Thu, Nov 4, 2010 at 9:01 PM, Doug Conn  wrote:
> > >  Are you asking for us to double check your speed calculation ? If so,
> > > please tell us the sprocket diameter.
> >
> > > -  Doug
> >
> > > *From:* rctankcombat@googlegroups.com [mailto:
> > > rctankcom...@googlegroups.com] *On Behalf Of *Jason R Schafer
> > > *Sent:* Thursday, November 04, 2010 6:41 PM
> > > *To:* rctankcombat@googlegroups.com
> > > *Subject:* [TANKS] motor
> >
> > > Can someone give me a gut check on my tank motor calculations - I'm
> > > designing a cromwell/centaur
> >
> > > two 250W 24V motors
> >
> > > sprocket speed 545rpm
> >
> > > max speed 7.3 mph
> >
> > > 1/6 scale max speed 43.8 mph
> >
> > > does this seem feasible (I am assuming a 115lb tank, 30% loss due to
> > > friction/inefficiency)?
> >
> > > Thanks,
> >
> > > Jason
> >
> > > --
> > > You are currently subscribed to the "R/C Tank Combat" group.
> > > To post a message, send email to rctankcombat@googlegroups.com
> > > To unsubscribe, send email to
> rctankcombat-unsubscr...@googlegroups.com
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> >
> > >   --
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>  >
> >
>
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Re: [TANKS] motor

[Jason R Schafer]

I'm just looking for a gut check - are there any tanks in the low 100 lb
range running around this speed with this motor size?  Will conveyor belt
tracks live at this speed?  Is 115 lbs realistic for a tank this size?

On Thu, Nov 4, 2010 at 9:01 PM, Doug Conn  wrote:

>  Are you asking for us to double check your speed calculation ? If so,
> please tell us the sprocket diameter.
>
>
>
> -  Doug
>
>
>
> *From:* rctankcombat@googlegroups.com [mailto:
> rctankcom...@googlegroups.com] *On Behalf Of *Jason R Schafer
> *Sent:* Thursday, November 04, 2010 6:41 PM
> *To:* rctankcombat@googlegroups.com
> *Subject:* [TANKS] motor
>
>
>
> Can someone give me a gut check on my tank motor calculations - I'm
> designing a cromwell/centaur
>
>
>
> two 250W 24V motors
>
> sprocket speed 545rpm
>
> max speed 7.3 mph
>
> 1/6 scale max speed 43.8 mph
>
>
>
> does this seem feasible (I am assuming a 115lb tank, 30% loss due to
> friction/inefficiency)?
>
>
>
> Thanks,
>
> Jason
>
>
>
>
>
> --
> You are currently subscribed to the "R/C Tank Combat" group.
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[TANKS] motor

[Jason R Schafer]

Can someone give me a gut check on my tank motor calculations - I'm
designing a cromwell/centaur

two 250W 24V motors
sprocket speed 545rpm
max speed 7.3 mph
1/6 scale max speed 43.8 mph

does this seem feasible (I am assuming a 115lb tank, 30% loss due to
friction/inefficiency)?

Thanks,
Jason

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Re: [TANKS] !/3rd Tank build

[Jason R Schafer]

torsion bar diameter and scale are not linearly related.  maximum shear
stress due to torsion = (applied torque*maximum radius of bar) / polar area
moment of inertia of the cross section

polar area moment of inertia for a circular cross section = (pi *
diameter^4) / 32

maximum shear stress due to torsion should be less than (0.577 * the yield
strength of the material) if you want the torsion bar to work without taking
a set

the angular deflection (in radians) due to the applied torque = (applied
torque * length of bar) / (polar area moment of inertia of the cross section
* shear modulus)


On Wed, Oct 27, 2010 at 2:46 PM, neroc  wrote:

> I`ve started my new tank , I`ve now got a basic hull and and gosh its
> big ,Im out at scrap yards looking for steel tomorrow , im wondering
> what diameter bar my tension axle will need to be , is it a case of
> double the scale = double the diameter ?
> im aiming for 1 inch mild steel rod, but I`ll have to see what I can
> find. if anyone thinks other wise please let me know .
> And if anyone knows of any  8No 10 inch wheels going  give me a nod.
>
> Neil R
>
> --
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Re: [TANKS] Re: any unusual or interesting designs you'd be interested in?

[Jason R Schafer]

Morser Karl
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Karl-Ger%C3%A4t

m50 ontos

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ontos

m270

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/MLRS

T34

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/T34_Calliope

TOS-1

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/TOS-1





On Mon, Oct 18, 2010 at 7:26 PM, Steve Tyng  wrote:

> Char-B1 bis
>
> http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Char-B1bis-Saumur.0004axt0.jpg
>
> You can build this as a tank destroyer with that big hull mounted gun
> or as a turreted tank, or both!
>
> Steve
>
> On Oct 18, 1:52 pm, Loren  wrote:
> > Hi, I'm a newbie here.  I'm getting ready to start designing my first
> > tank.  I'm an amateur roboticist I'd claim, and I'm not terribly shy
> > about tackling this.
> >
> > Anyway, I've a few tanks on a list I'd like to build, but I also enjoy
> > being just a bit unusual.  I'm already planning a Priest and some
> > engineering vehicles, but I was curious if anyone had something else
> > they'd be interested in seeing, I'll take a look at the list and see
> > if something appeals to me.
>
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Re: [TANKS] M1A1 ABRAMS -- MORE PROGRESS, MORE PICTURES

[Jason R Schafer]

what are you using for motors?  what voltage?  what is the reduction from
motor to final drive?  only one 12 amp hour battery?  What do you think the
final weight will be?
Thanks,
Jason
On Sun, Mar 14, 2010 at 5:54 PM, Mark_123521
wrote:

> Got some of the sheet metal done this week.
> Tank hull weighs about 100 pounds, as shown.
> This thing moves, it can easily spin the tracks on a fast start
> It tears the heck out of the lawn when you do a full skid turn.
> It has 12 amp hour batteries in it right now and I ran it hard for 45
> minutes - no sign of run down batteries. Installed a 30 amp circuit
> breaker for on/off control and circuit protection - works good - no
> trips.
> You can run it up the trunk of a tree until its higher than 45
> degrees!!!
>
> I'll start on the turret this week.
>
> ME SITTING ON TANK, I ACTUALY TOOK A RIDE
> The little dog belongs to my daughter.
> http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z65/mm123521/Meontank.jpg
>
> GOING OVER PARKING LOT BARRIERS:
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yzLvXVVajUQ
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BtSAa4eJvgs
>
>
> TANK GOING DOWN A 30 FOOT HILL @ 30 DEGREES ANGLE:
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2QTgBzeI440
>
> Mark
>
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Re: [TANKS] Otto

[Jason R Schafer]

pretty neat; an ultrasonic sensor or IR sensor could be used to 'trigger'
Otto

On Fri, Feb 5, 2010 at 7:33 PM, Gregory Kampjes wrote:

> Yes, it could make an interesting scenario. Though the distance could be a
> problem, as you need a long clear straight line.
>
> -Gregory
>
>
> On Sat, Feb 6, 2010 at 1:58 PM, Phil  wrote:
>
>> Older members will remember that I’ve been trying for some years to
>> build infantry for the radio-controlled battlefield. This is as far as
>> I have got…
>>
>>
>> http://s236.photobucket.com/albums/ff13/sasquevaneach/?action=view¤t=100_0038.flv
>>
>> This is Otto. He is powered by a 3V Tamiya motor with a high-reduction
>> gearbox. Technobots- the website I bought it from- said that you could
>> operate it at 6V, and he moved at a good speed, but unfortunately he
>> burned the motor out. 6V may work when you are using H-bridges which
>> reduce the voltage, but with a simple on-off switch and the stresses
>> of bumpy ground it’s too much. I’ve been wondering if I might get away
>> with 4.5V. Any suggestions?
>>
>> Here he is from the front:
>>
>> http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff13/sasquevaneach/100_0039.jpg
>>
>> The motor and batteries are within the hollow wheels which makes for a
>> low centre of gravity. The gap between the wheels is small, so the
>> fact that there is little ground clearance doesn’t matter.
>>
>> I made the heads for the other figures whilst waiting for bits of Otto
>> to dry and I sort of got carried away. I also wanted to try out papier
>> mache techniques.
>>
>> ON THE ROLE OF INFANTRY ON THE RADIO-CONTROLLED BATTLEFIELD
>> From the point of view of a tank crew, infantry are virtually
>> invisible when hiding on cover; easy to kill when moving; and
>> dangerous when close. From the point of view of rc tank combat, that
>> translates as equivalent to a self-operating mine- a stationery single-
>> shot weapon with a degree of aiming- as envisaged in the rules.
>>
>> Trouble is though, I’m not interested in stationery infantry. I want
>> them to move. I decided that mobile infantry must be able to do 4
>> things:
>>
>> 1.  Move, cross-country, at a reasonable speed
>> 2.  Be able to attack tanks and guns
>> 3.  Be able to attack other mobile infantry
>> 4.  Look reasonably like a 1/6th soldier
>>
>> I eventually realised that they don’t have to be radio-controlled.
>> Otto is operated by a toggle switch on his left-hand side. You can tie
>> a string to that and set him off from a distance, or using a stick, so
>> it is safe to operate him under fire. Other possibilities are a
>> tripwire, which can be set off by friendly forces- a jeep, say,
>> running over a tripwire behind him, or the tripwire can be run round
>> to the front so Otto can leap out and attack enemy passers-by.
>>
>> Otto is armed with a sponge attached to his rife covered with
>> paintball goo. He leaves a reasonable mark, as you can see on Nurse
>> Nellie’s dress in the 2nd picture.  If this hits an asset (including
>> infantry) this counts as a hit. This means of attack breaks the rule
>> that assets must not get within 5 feet of each other, but I think
>> that’s OK- Otto is not going to damage a tank, or even another
>> infantryman. Basically he is a land-based torpedo.
>>
>> I rate Otto as a partial success. He passes rules 2 & 3 in that he can
>> theoretically score a hit, but he’s far too slow and on the “looking
>> like a soldier” test gets a “just about” result in my book. He’s also
>> not very accurate- my first attempts to demonstrate him went like
>> this:
>>
>>
>> http://s236.photobucket.com/albums/ff13/sasquevaneach/?action=view¤t=100_0036.flv
>>
>> I don’t think he’s a viable attack system, but can see uses for Otto
>> on the battlefield- he can be carrying a vital message/missile
>> activation code/baby’s bottle or whatever from A to B (in a straight
>> line) and one side has to shoot him while the other defends. It’s a
>> moving “take the flag” game.
>>
>> What do you think?
>>
>> Phil Palmer
>>
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Re: [TANKS] M113 progress

[Jason R Schafer]

150$ sounds reasonable to me!  Was that for just what was shown in the pic
or did it come with other pieces?  Would you be willing to do a group buy if
other people are interested?  Very nice work.

Jason

On Sun, Jan 17, 2010 at 5:31 AM, Ben Holko  wrote:

>  I picked up the hull for my M113 this week. After many hours drawing in
> sketchup I supplied the cad file, and the hull was laser cut from 2mm zinc
> steel, and bent in a single piece on a 10-tonne brake press. I am VERY happy
> with the way it came out.
>
>
>
> Next is to start to make suspension components, which will be torsion bars.
>
>
>
> Front and rear hull pieces will be welded on, also from 2mm zinc steel, the
> top will be bolted on and removable. Not yet decided on whether to have a
> drop-down rear ramp, part of me thinks if I was going to do that I would
> have to make it RC controlled otherwise it just wouldn’t be cool J
>
>
>
> The 4 vertical holes are for the motor mounts, which I will fabricate from
> steel.
>
>
>
> Ben
>
>
>
>
>
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[TANKS] Re: Four Tanks Designated

[Jason R Schafer]

The Mk1 is so cool, so classic - it's neat that someone built one.  Great
job Paco!

On Fri, Jul 24, 2009 at 10:08 PM, Gregory Pwneror wrote:

> I would happen to have a gas mask like that one at home, but mines a bit
> more modern, a British General Service, Mk IV.
> I wonder if we will be able to see the soldier in the tank once it's
> finished.
>
> On Sat, Jul 25, 2009 at 3:49 AM, Fred Thomson wrote:
>
>>
>> Very nice gentlemen! Very nice indeed.
>>
>> Cheers,
>> Fred
>>
>>
>
> >
>

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[TANKS] Re: Infantry on tank

[Jason R Schafer]

Hmm, very good point - this would also effect the MLRS - what is the take on
missiles - are they classified the same as rockets?

On Fri, Jul 24, 2009 at 9:02 PM, Clark Ward Jr  wrote:

>
> And technically speaking, the only rockets the Bradley carries are the
> AT-4's fired by the infantry squad...   the M440A4 T.O.W system is a
> missile system :)
>
> On 7/24/09, Frank Pittelli  wrote:
> >
> > Jason R Schafer wrote:
> >> I was reading through the rules and was curious about infantry - can
> >> they only be transported by supply vehicles or can they ride on the
> >> outside of tanks?
> >
> > The infantry used to guard fixed artillery can only be transported by a
> > supply vehicle.  Other infantry and participants (like Unfortunate Eric)
> > can ride on any vehicle, depending on the type of scenario being played.
> >
> >   Frank P.
> >
> > >
> >
>
>
> --
> Clark in Georgia
> M4 Sherman
>
> >
>

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[TANKS] Infantry on tank

[Jason R Schafer]

I was reading through the rules and was curious about infantry - can they
only be transported by supply vehicles or can they ride on the outside of
tanks?

Supply vehicles must be unarmed - bummer - I was thinking an M2 Bradley
could be a rocket launcher with a store of 40 paintballs but answered my own
question with some research.

Jason

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[TANKS] Re: New supply vehicle on the horizon

[Jason R Schafer]

Awesome!  I was thinking about building the M113 - now I am going to have to
find something more obscure, or maybe not ... any chance you would make your
building plans publicly available?

Jason

On Wed, Jul 15, 2009 at 11:05 PM,  wrote:

>   In a message dated 7/15/2009 11:54:45 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
> tan...@gmail.com writes:
>
> It actually will be pretty roomy inside.
>
> Derek
> T065
>
> got a chair picked out to put in it yet ;)
>
> Chris,
> Odyssey Slipways <http://hometown.aol.com/odysseyslipways/index.html>
>
> >
>

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[TANKS] Re: Timing circuit for canon firing - help?

[Jason R Schafer]

You need a microcontroller (I think, maybe there is something simpler out
there).  Check out www.sparkfun.com for all sorts of neat electronic
components.  I am working with a Microchip microcontroller (PIC32) but don't
know much yet.  I have read and heard the Arduino is easier to start out on.

Jason

On Wed, Jul 8, 2009 at 12:56 AM, Modena  wrote:

>
> Good day all,
>
> I am going to be using a home-made canon, driven by c02 with a 12v
> solenoid valve designed for 1000psi air.
>
> Standard paintball tank and adjustable pressure regulator will be used
> to bring down pressure to around 200psi or whatever I find is required
> through testing.
>
> Fire control will be by actuating the GEAR switch on my aero-style TX,
> this switch will be replaced with a momentary push button. In effect
> you could think of this as an electronic marker built to be controlled
> by RC.
>
> So..
>
> what I need is an adjustable timing circuit, something that works like
> this:
>
> 1) press fire
> 2) custom circuit switches a relay which provides power to the 12v air
> valve, air valve opens, paintball shoots
> 3) custom circuit "un-switches" relay after X milliseconds (time
> adjustable via pot or similar) which removes power from valve which
> causes valve to close
> 4) custom circuit enters "delay" mode of Y milliseconds (adjustable
> again) to allow canon to re-chamber the next round
> 5) circuit is ready to fire again (as long as fire button was released
> between step 1 and step 5)
>
> I really want this to operate as above regardless of whether the fire
> button is "tapped" or held in.holding the fire button down must
> only operate the circuit once, so if you press and HOLD fire the
> circuit will stop at the end of step 4 above and will not be ready
> again until the fire button is released - otherwise it would be fully-
> automatic, cool, but not playing by the rules!
>
> I know about the picoswitch which can do the relay switching off an RC
> input for me, and this type of thing looks ideal for the timing logic,
> but the timings are in the wrong range:
> http://www.apogeekits.com/interval_timer_555.htm
>
> Can anyone assist here? I know stuff all about electronics, but it
> seems if we can get this nailed down then certainly other RCTankers in
> AU will have a need for this also.
>
> Ben
>
> >
>

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[TANKS] Re: Track-building

[Jason R Schafer]

Does TTS work well on rear drive tanks also or is there another track system
that works better for rear drive tanks?

On Fri, Jun 19, 2009 at 11:48 PM, Chrysanthos Kanellopoulos <
xchr...@otenet.gr> wrote:

>
> TTS is best for front wheel drive as at your Sherman.
> KTS - though perhaps the best approximation of a sagging steel track- does
> not work as nicely with a front wheel drive. You'd have to tighten the
> track
> a lot for it to work and the hinge track is already heavy.
> Chrys
>
> - Original Message -
> From: "Frank Pittelli" 
> To: 
> Sent: Saturday, June 20, 2009 1:31 AM
> Subject: [TANKS] Re: Track-building
>
>
> >
> > Clark Ward Jr wrote:
> > > Any TTS advice beyond what I've read on the T005 page?
> >
> > Mr. Ward,
> >
> > Please be advised that the acronym "TTS" (which now stands for Tri-Pact
> > Track System) and all intellectual property rights associated with the
> > design, development, production or use of such track technology is now
> > the sole property of Tri-Pact Global Enterprises, a wholly-owned
> > subsidiary of Tri-Pact Combat Ventures, a division of Tri-Pact
> > Entertainment, which is a joint-venture with Tri-Pact World-Wide
> > MegaCorp, Inc. as the result of recent successful litigation against the
> > now-defunct Tyng Industries for gross technical negligence.
> >
> > Although at this time we have not decided how best to proceed in the
> > proper marketing of TTS systems (the gross margins are much lower than
> > our normal product lines), we will be allowing individuals such as
> > yourself to make use of publicly available information, provided such
> > individuals do not attempt to market them in competition with Tri-Pact
> > or any corporation, organization, individual, country, or group of
> > people that is directly, indirectly, or even casually associated with
> > Tri-Pact.
> >
> > We thank you for choosing the TTS design and we look forward to
> > providing you with even better solutions in the future.
> >
> > Frank Pittelli
> > Dir. Legal Marketing Strategy
> > Tri-Pact Legal Division
> >
> > >
> >
> >
> > __ Information from ESET NOD32 Antivirus, version of virus
> signature database 4170 (20090619) __
> >
> > The message was checked by ESET NOD32 Antivirus.
> >
> > http://www.eset.com
> >
> >
> >
>
>
> __ Information from ESET NOD32 Antivirus, version of virus
> signature database 4170 (20090619) __
>
> The message was checked by ESET NOD32 Antivirus.
>
> http://www.eset.com
>
>
>
>
> >
>

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[TANKS] Re: Track-building

[Jason R Schafer]

Is there any reason why conveyor belts wont work?
http://www.mcmaster.com/#60535k513/=2dzbat

On Fri, Jun 19, 2009 at 2:50 PM, Tango71  wrote:

>
> Is seat belt material really practical? I thought of this too since I
> don't want to deal with attachment chain shipping from overseas and
> prefer not to wait for our local gym to throw treadmill belts away. I
> thought of the seat belt idea because there is a wrecking yard close
> to here.
>
> My question is however. Would seat belt tracks become logged with
> water and moisture and would this eventually shorten the life of my
> tracks. Also the tank these tracks are going on is a 1/4 scale 200lb
> monster powered by a gasoline engine. So yeah. I need these to last
> for a long time. How tough would seat belts be?
>
> On Jun 19, 12:42 pm, Steve Tyng  wrote:
> > If your doing a sprocket drive also review the track construction on
> > the T040 page.
> >
> > Also, ignore any and all advice on TTS construction coming from the
> > Pittelli camp!  ;-)
> >
> > Steve
> >
> > On Jun 19, 2:43 pm, Clark Ward Jr  wrote:
> >
> > > I had been planning on trying a seatbelt track system on the Sherman,
> > > but the treadmill belt I won on Ebay showed up in the mail today.  I
> > > think I'm going to go ahead with a TTS for my first tank, to have one
> > > actually mobile, and THEN try experimental stuff with the seatbelt
> > > material on a second tank.
> >
> > > Any TTS advice beyond what I've read on the T005 page?
> >
> > > --
> > > Clark in Georgia
> > > M4 Sherman
> >
> >
> >
>

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[TANKS] Re: Nema 34 stepper motor

[Jason R Schafer]

Don I think you are correct - the Nema 34 spec is only a frame size/mounting
configuration for the motor.  I haven't found a low cost source yet - I
expect they will cost at least twice as much as the most costly option Derek
sent.


On Sun, Jun 14, 2009 at 11:55 PM, Derek Engelhaupt  wrote:

> Jason,
>
> This was posted back in April about good motor options.  Since I cut and
>
> pasted out of the archive you'll probably have to do the same on the
>
> links.  These would be motors that would be very effective in our tanks.
>
> It's a risk using an unproven solution (motor in this case), sometimes they
> pan out, sometimes
>
> they don't.  Personally I don't know anything about Stepper motors except
>
> how to replace them when they go bad in printers that I used to fix.
>
>
> Derek
>
> T065
>
>
>
> On Apr 15, 12:08 pm, Steve Tyng 
> http://groups.google.com/groups/unlock?_done=/group/rctankcombat/browse_thread/thread/6bb07694faaa0279/28dc2a3b73638bdc%3Flnk%3Dgst%26q%3DM-01%2Bmotors&msg=b30353d3b6f13740>
> @gmail.com> wrote:
> > Allelectronics has another version of the *M01's* at a good price:
> > http://www.allelectronics.com/make-a-store/item/DCM-2445/24VDC-450W-M...
>
> > You'll need to figure a different mounting.
>
> It now appears that we have five US vendors for MY1016Z3
> or MY1018Z *motors*.
>
> http://shop.razor.com/product.php?productid=16391&cat=268&page=2
> $35.99 (in stock)
>
> http://www.monsterscooterparts.com/24v-350w-motor-dirt-quad.html#
> $35.49 (out of stock)
>
> http://www.razorama.com/razor-dirt-quad-motor.html
> $35.95 (out of stock)
>
> http://tncscooters.com/partsdb.php?type=ES
> 350W GEARED Motor - 24 Volts (Style: MY1016Z3)
> $55 (out of stock)
>
> http://www.allelectronics.com/make-a-store/item/DCM-2445/24VDC-450W-M...<http://www.allelectronics.com/make-a-store/item/DCM-2445/24VDC-450W-MOTOR-W/-PLANETARY-GEAR/1.html>
> $45 (in stock)
> http://tncscooters.com/partsdb.php?type=ES
> 450W GEARED Motor - 24 Volts (Style: MY1018Z)
> $60 (out of stock)
>
>
>
> >
>

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[TANKS] Re: Caterpillar Drive Chain

[Jason R Schafer]

Caterpillar is a registered trade mark.  Please refer to the products as
treads/tracks or use some other term that won't dilute the brand value of
Caterpillar.

Thanks,
Jason (eh, yea, I do work for Caterpillar)

On Thu, Jun 18, 2009 at 8:50 AM,  wrote:

>
> What stuff ?
>
> Neil R
>
>
>  David Cansler  wrote:
> >
> > Has anyone played with this stuff yet?
> >
> > >
>
>
> >
>

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[TANKS] Re: did I say that ?

[Jason R Schafer]

awsome!  do you have any pics of the heat signature from an RC tank?

On Thu, Jun 18, 2009 at 9:57 AM, Doug Conn  wrote:

>  Joe brought a cool thermal camera to the recent battle. He was checking
> the tanks’ heat signatures after the battles. I guess he’s planning to win
> the coveted Pittelli X-Prize money and retire. I reminded Frank that he said
> he would allow manual control of the tank’s tracks, but he didn’t remember
> making that concession. Well, Frank, here it is verbatim from your May 18
> post:
>
>
>
> Autonomous fire-control (ie. rotate/elevate/trigger) is sufficiently
> difficult that I have no problem allowing you to operate the tracks
> manually.  Of course, you might be laughed at by the "autonomous
> purists" that seem to dominate the robotic world ... but then again,
> they probably won't have the guts to take on the challenge anyway ;-)
>
>
>
> Better warm up that check-writing pen. It’s spelled A-N-V-I-L-U-S.
>
>
>
> -Doug
>
> >
>

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[TANKS] Nema 34 stepper motor

[Jason R Schafer]

How well would two 24v dc nema 34 stepper motors work for the main drive
system?

Jason

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[TANKS] Re: New to the group

[Jason R Schafer]

I would drive out to ND to battle when I get a tank built (haven't started
yet)

Jason
Crystal, MN

On Sun, Jun 7, 2009 at 9:42 PM, pete913  wrote:

>
>  Hello all. I just recently discovered this group and it looks like a
> lot of fun. Looking through the webpage gave me lots of ideas, and I'm
> simply amazed at how creative all of you are with your projects.
>
>  As far as I know, there are no other R/C people around here ( North
> Dakota ) who have larger scale tanks such as these, so I plan on being
> first ha. I'm trying to scale drawings for a Cromwell that I found on
> the internet, and will probably use the Tyng track system with
> individuallly sprung wheels. If anyone has larger drawings or a plan
> of some sort, please let me know. Thank you.
>
> >
>

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[TANKS] Re: Self Propelled Artillery?

[Jason R Schafer]

If you had the option of an asset being a tank or field artillery I don't
understand why you would opt for the latter (seems to be the direction of
the original post - but then it was qualified with the phrase 'nothing
better to do').  Does field artillery status have any advantage over tank
status?

Jason

On Tue, Jun 2, 2009 at 5:33 PM, HV  wrote:

>
> An equivalent type vehicle (Czech) looking menacing.
>
> http://www.warwheels.net/DanaZTS_152mmSPGindex.html
>
> >
>

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[TANKS] Re: Another interesting tank

[Jason R Schafer]

Whoops, my mistake,

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ontos

On Mon, Jun 1, 2009 at 5:29 PM, Clark Ward Jr  wrote:

>
> I don't think that link came out as intended :(
>
> >
>

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[TANKS] Re: New to the hobby

[Jason R Schafer]

I might be able to make it on the 14th.  What time is it?

On Tue, May 19, 2009 at 7:23 AM, Derek Engelhaupt  wrote:

> Jason,
>
> I mis-spoke about the date, it's actually the weekend of June 13th and
> 14th.  I would think it would be fun to battle if someone came up with a
> viable way to actually make it a multiple single shot weapon.
>
> Derek
> T065
>
>
> On Mon, May 18, 2009 at 11:32 PM, Jason R Schafer  > wrote:
>
>> I should be able to make it on the 21st.  I am re-thinking my vehicle
>> selection though - would the M270 MLRS be fun to battle?  Has anybody made
>> their own single shot paintball devices?
>>
>> Jason
>>
>>   On Sat, May 16, 2009 at 8:52 PM, Derek Engelhaupt wrote:
>>
>>> Jason,
>>>
>>> June 20 and 21st the Ft. Snelling Military Museum is having an open house
>>> and I'll be down in the cities for that (tanks, trucks, APCs on parade and
>>> car crushing with the M60).  I'll be bringing the tank with to hopefully
>>> entice some more battlers.  Pics of the build are on the rctankcombat site:
>>>
>>> http://www.rctankcombat.com/tanks/T065/
>>>
>>> The open house is my day to play with the real tanks.  I'm actually
>>> down here in the cities this weekend, but don't have the tank with me.
>>>
>>> Derek
>>> T065
>>>
>>>   On Fri, May 15, 2009 at 1:57 PM, Jason R Schafer <
>>> jasonrscha...@gmail.com> wrote:
>>>
>>>> cool!  I'd like to see it sometime.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> On Fri, May 15, 2009 at 12:25 PM, Derek Engelhaupt wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> Whoohoo...another Minnesotan.  I'm way up north, but have an *almost*
>>>>> fully functional tank ready to paint someone
>>>>>
>>>>> Derek
>>>>> T065 - Lutsen, MN
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> On Fri, May 15, 2009 at 10:09 AM, Frank Pittelli <
>>>>> frank.pitte...@gmail.com> wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Jason R Schafer wrote:
>>>>>> > Any current or ex R/C warship combat guys in the hobby?
>>>>>>
>>>>>> The tank hobby was founded by two ex-IRCWCC national champions with
>>>>>> over
>>>>>> 20 years of combined warship battling experience.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> > Is anybody trying any sort of barrel stabilization systems?
>>>>>> > Would this be legal?
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Perfectly legal.  There are very few restrictions on tank sub-system
>>>>>> technology.  If it's not covered in the rules, you can use whatever
>>>>>> you
>>>>>> think will give you an advantage.  Moreover, if you are the first to
>>>>>> use
>>>>>>  a technology on the battlefield, you'll probably have your name
>>>>>> attached to the solution for all the world to see.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> > What about range finding etc?
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Go for it.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> > It seems your rules are very open to technological advancements ...
>>>>>> > how fun!
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Yes. See (1) and (2) above.
>>>>>>
>>>>>>Frank P.
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>
>
> >
>

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[TANKS] Another interesting tank

[Jason R Schafer]

Here is another interesting 'tank' rctankcombat@googlegroups.com

Has anybody made any succesful compact single shot paitball devices?

Jason

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[TANKS] Re: torsion bar suspension

[Jason R Schafer]

Where is this group board?
Jason

On Fri, May 29, 2009 at 11:40 AM, Thomas Lum  wrote:

>
> You may want to do a little search on the group boards, a lot of discussion
> has been put out there regarding torsion suspensions.
> Tom
>
> >
>

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[TANKS] torsion bar suspension

[Jason R Schafer]

Has anyone tried to miniaturize torsion bar suspension?  I was thinking of
using O1 drill rod and using the length of the bar to tune the 'spring
rate'.  Any idea how much force one wheel is subjected to on an average
tank?

Jason

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[TANKS] The Karl

[Jason R Schafer]

Anybody think about building the Karl?
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/M%C3%B6rser_Karl

Jason

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[TANKS] Re: New to the hobby

[Jason R Schafer]

I should be able to make it on the 21st.  I am re-thinking my vehicle
selection though - would the M270 MLRS be fun to battle?  Has anybody made
their own single shot paintball devices?

Jason

On Sat, May 16, 2009 at 8:52 PM, Derek Engelhaupt  wrote:

> Jason,
>
> June 20 and 21st the Ft. Snelling Military Museum is having an open house
> and I'll be down in the cities for that (tanks, trucks, APCs on parade and
> car crushing with the M60).  I'll be bringing the tank with to hopefully
> entice some more battlers.  Pics of the build are on the rctankcombat site:
>
> http://www.rctankcombat.com/tanks/T065/
>
> The open house is my day to play with the real tanks.  I'm actually
> down here in the cities this weekend, but don't have the tank with me.
>
> Derek
> T065
>
>   On Fri, May 15, 2009 at 1:57 PM, Jason R Schafer <
> jasonrscha...@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>> cool!  I'd like to see it sometime.
>>
>>
>> On Fri, May 15, 2009 at 12:25 PM, Derek Engelhaupt wrote:
>>
>>> Whoohoo...another Minnesotan.  I'm way up north, but have an *almost*
>>> fully functional tank ready to paint someone
>>>
>>> Derek
>>> T065 - Lutsen, MN
>>>
>>>
>>> On Fri, May 15, 2009 at 10:09 AM, Frank Pittelli <
>>> frank.pitte...@gmail.com> wrote:
>>>
>>>>
>>>> Jason R Schafer wrote:
>>>> > Any current or ex R/C warship combat guys in the hobby?
>>>>
>>>> The tank hobby was founded by two ex-IRCWCC national champions with over
>>>> 20 years of combined warship battling experience.
>>>>
>>>> > Is anybody trying any sort of barrel stabilization systems?
>>>> > Would this be legal?
>>>>
>>>> Perfectly legal.  There are very few restrictions on tank sub-system
>>>> technology.  If it's not covered in the rules, you can use whatever you
>>>> think will give you an advantage.  Moreover, if you are the first to use
>>>>  a technology on the battlefield, you'll probably have your name
>>>> attached to the solution for all the world to see.
>>>>
>>>> > What about range finding etc?
>>>>
>>>> Go for it.
>>>>
>>>> > It seems your rules are very open to technological advancements ...
>>>> > how fun!
>>>>
>>>> Yes. See (1) and (2) above.
>>>>
>>>>Frank P.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> >>>
>>>

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[TANKS] Re: Auto-pilot

[Jason R Schafer]

gps on both units

On Sun, May 17, 2009 at 10:34 PM, Modena  wrote:

>
> I wouldn't think so - how would it know where the tank is? If I'm
> driving my tank around and I switch SV auto-pilot on, how is my SV
> going to find my constantly moving tank?
>
> you could put the SV into random auto-pilot mode and drive the tank to
> the SV, but assuming the SV "lives" at home base, you may as well just
> drive the tank back to home base, no SV required.
>
> On May 18, 1:31 pm, Michael Clark  wrote:
> > Wouldn't it be easier to have the supply vehicle drive itself to the
> tank?
> >
> >
> >
>  > On Sun, May 17, 2009 at 10:26 PM, Modena  wrote:
> >
> > > I don't think it is currently covered by the rules, but can I build
> > > some kind of auto-pilot? Here's what I'm thinking:
> >
> > > The servo cables out of the RX would plug into some custom circuit
> > > wizardry box and by default it just passes through the servo
> > > electrical interface for "normal" RC operation.
> >
> > > When I press a certain button on my TX to switch auto-pilot on, this
> > > engages the buggery box which then effectively cuts the circuit
> > > between the RX and the servo's/ESC/etc (except the channel which
> > > switches auto-pilot on/off) and a PIC or similar processor then
> > > "drives" the tank in a series of semi-random/pre-programmed patterns,
> > > maybe doing semi-random circles or whatever.
> >
> > > The reason I might want this is to be able to drive a support vehicle
> > > and a tank in the same battle. When the tank needs re-loading in the
> > > middle of the field, I put my tank in auto-pilot, grab the control for
> > > the SV and hoon on over - kill the auto-pilot on the tank, which means
> > > it stops moving, re-load, put it back in auto-pilot, hoon the SV back
> > > to base and then take over the tank again. With pre-programmed
> > > patterns that only the operator knows, you could even predict where
> > > the tank is going to move to next and place the SV accordingly. And
> > > with carefully programmed synthetic "piloting" it could even look like
> > > it's still under manual control, with traverse and elevate actions as
> > > well as vehicular movement.
> >
> > > Obviously the auto-pilot controlled movements would not want to be
> > > very far reaching, we don't want a runaway 80kg monster on our hands -
> > > it could still be hooked up that if RC reception drops out (either
> > > because of range, or manually switching off the TX) the tank stops
> > > dead (auto-pilot switches off) for safety. Switching auto-pilot on
> > > would be a selective decision too, tress, obstacles etc, although
> > > obstacle avoidance could be programmed in fairly easily with some
> > > readily available automotive proximity sensors (think reverse parking
> > > sensors).
> >
> > > Currently obviously there's nothing stopping me driving an SV over to
> > > my tank for reloading, but while I do that the tank is a sitting duck,
> > > the auto-pilot is just to make it into a randomly moving target,
> > > instead of stationary target practice.
> >
> > > I recognise the fact that it's better to get another person to pilot
> > > the SV, both for attack avoidance and because the more people involved
> > > in the battle the merrier, but this is another option if an SV pilot
> > > cannot be had for the day, and it's just cool, especially with
> > > obstacle avoidance :)
> >
> > > and no, I am not suggesting an auto-pilot controlled firing
> > > mechanism :)- Hide quoted text -
> >
> > - Show quoted text -
>  >
>

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[TANKS] Re: New to the hobby

[Jason R Schafer]

cool!  I'd like to see it sometime.


On Fri, May 15, 2009 at 12:25 PM, Derek Engelhaupt  wrote:

> Whoohoo...another Minnesotan.  I'm way up north, but have an *almost* fully
> functional tank ready to paint someone
>
> Derek
> T065 - Lutsen, MN
>
>
> On Fri, May 15, 2009 at 10:09 AM, Frank Pittelli  > wrote:
>
>>
>> Jason R Schafer wrote:
>> > Any current or ex R/C warship combat guys in the hobby?
>>
>> The tank hobby was founded by two ex-IRCWCC national champions with over
>> 20 years of combined warship battling experience.
>>
>> > Is anybody trying any sort of barrel stabilization systems?
>> > Would this be legal?
>>
>> Perfectly legal.  There are very few restrictions on tank sub-system
>> technology.  If it's not covered in the rules, you can use whatever you
>> think will give you an advantage.  Moreover, if you are the first to use
>>  a technology on the battlefield, you'll probably have your name
>> attached to the solution for all the world to see.
>>
>> > What about range finding etc?
>>
>> Go for it.
>>
>> > It seems your rules are very open to technological advancements ...
>> > how fun!
>>
>> Yes. See (1) and (2) above.
>>
>>Frank P.
>>
>>
>>
>
> >
>

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[TANKS] New to the hobby

[Jason R Schafer]

Hello everyone,

I am new to R/C tank combat and am looking forward to building an M1 Abrams
this winter.  Any current or ex R/C warship combat guys in the hobby?  Is
anybody trying any sort of barrel stabilization systems?  Would this be
legal?  What about range finding etc?  It seems your rules are very open to
technological advancements ... how fun!  Looking forward to learning more.

Jason Schafer
Minneapolis, MN

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