[TANKS] Re: (small) Tiger update
Just FYI, your link sends me to a site that tries to get me to sign up for some AOL program called "AOL Lifestreams", and has no way to get to your pics or site w/o creating a log-in. -- You are currently subscribed to the "R/C Tank Combat" group. To post a message, send email to rctankcombat@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe, send email to rctankcombat+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com Visit the group at http://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat
[TANKS] Re: Sabertooth 2x25 ESC-wiring short issue
I had problems getting the unit to work correctly when connecting a power supply to the reciever at first. I re-read the instructions and found this: "If using a receiver pack, do not connect power to the 5V line of the Sabertooth because the maximum voltage it can tolerate is 6V." I took the reciever power away, and it runs perfectly. I can't explain the science, but it works. From my understanding of the instructions, it would also work if i left the battery and disconnected the power lead from the rc plug (don't connect the red rc wire to the 5v terminal, just the grnd(black) lead and reference (yellow/white) lead. It works for me so far, when i power up the tank, its just one switch righ now. I'm using a Spektrum 6xi, and dual recievers, one for the drive system and one for the turret. Figure if the drive system craps out in battle, i'll still have a working gun emplacement... :) -- You are currently subscribed to the "R/C Tank Combat" group. To post a message, send email to rctankcombat@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe, send email to rctankcombat+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com Visit the group at http://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat
[TANKS] Re: Rhino coating the tracks?
I was actually thinking about the round headed screw idea... even bought the screws to do it. Figured i'd try the Rhino lining first. I was wondering if the screws would add traction on grass, and the last time i had the tank out i had some troubles doing full skid turns on high grass from a stop. I didn't want to make that any worse. I figured i'd try out the new motor controller, and go from there. So far, with one coating, the tracks seem to have a more plastic feel to them. A bit more shiney than i would like, but i'm hoping the scuffing from road wear will reduce that. I'm going to try to put a few coats on before i take it back out (with all this rain, i should be able to get that done). -- You are currently subscribed to the "R/C Tank Combat" group. To post a message, send email to rctankcombat@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe, send email to rctankcombat+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com Visit the group at http://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat
[TANKS] Re: Rhino coating the tracks?
I thought about that, but the trouble would be getting it on there. I'd have to cut each piece, and secure it on with some kind of glue, or cut thick pieces and secure them on with bolts or screws. I'm looking for something servicable, but low on cost and man hours. Thats why i though: "Bed liner" It's tough stuff, says you can put it on wood, its basically emulsified rubber coating mixed with an adhesive... brilliant! It seems to stick well, (my hands prove this, luckily just a little before i remembered to use gloves). BTW: I've already started doing it. I just wanted to see if anyone else has tried, and wanted to share their results. Thanks for the reply though. :) -- You are currently subscribed to the "R/C Tank Combat" group. To post a message, send email to rctankcombat@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe, send email to rctankcombat+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com Visit the group at http://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat
[TANKS] Rhino coating the tracks?
Anyone else try this? I got tired of the tracks getting chewed up while riding it on the street. Now, you could just say "stop driving it on the street", but i live in the city and its sometimes easier to just run it up the street and back for a quick test. This chewed up the wood, and started turning my nice black tracks to brown again. I was thinking, if i coated them in multiple coats of Rhino liner truck bed liner, i would: 1. Water proof them. 2. Paint them black again. 3. Give them a coating of rubber. all at the same time. If it scratches off, or peels, i just dress them up with another few coats of goop, and bam back on the street. I'm trying to see if there are any negatives with this idea (besides price, mess, and time to do it). Other than that, just working on a few odds and ends with T-60. Trying to get all the final details finished up. I'm trying out a Sabertooth 2x25. I know they don't have a sterling rep here, but my other controller just kept frying on me, and i want to take it out and run it for more than 5 minutes w/o it crapping out. -- You are currently subscribed to the "R/C Tank Combat" group. To post a message, send email to rctankcombat@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe, send email to rctankcombat+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com Visit the group at http://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat
[TANKS] Re: T-60 Update
Some more parts showed up, and another week's progress on the turret: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IUpGc96_h-Y and http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s6HL6eySZrg -- You are currently subscribed to the "R/C Tank Combat" group. To post a message, send email to rctankcombat@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe, send email to rctankcombat+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com Visit the group at http://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat
[TANKS] Re: T-60 Update
Due to the limited height in the turret and verticle feed of the marker, i toyed with the idea of a gravity feed, but found it less than reliable. I bought a Q-Feeder, but did not like that setup either. My new idea is to modify the internals of a Empire-B loader into a small force feed for the marker. Here are some intial pictures: https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/s2XmolOfaUaedOTfhhUoSA?feat=directlink and: https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/txVkKZbUvHUbdxc7PEt5-w?feat=directlink I'm working on a mounting system, and from there a reloading system so that magazine can be re-loaded quickly with ease. I figure that if i keep the system close to the feed neck, and use a small amount of the q-loader tubing for feeding, i should have reliable magazine feeding for about 35 rounds, and only rely on gravity for the remaining 5 or so. The Empire-B is the sound activated version of the halo loader, and uses a spring loaded drive cone to force feed the paintballs into the marker, giving a quick and reliable feed for the marker. Its rated to about 30bps in the paintball world, but i'll be using it mostly for the tricky feed angles involved with the space i have. If you mess up, spare motor housing cones can be found on e-bay for about $20 USC. With the advent of the Dye rotor, the empire and halo systems are old tech, and i'm sure anyone looking to do this mod can find them on ebay for a decent price. -- You are currently subscribed to the "R/C Tank Combat" group. To post a message, send email to rctankcombat@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe, send email to rctankcombat+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com Visit the group at http://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat
[TANKS] T-60 Update
I've been working dilligently on T-60, trying to get it ever closer to battle condition. I fried some more relays on my last test, and i'm waiting for some replacements. I made some electronic changes, and hope to have eliminated the problems, but thats what field tests are for. Waiting for motor parts, i'm moving back to the turret. I got stuck trying to make some bad ideas work, and the time away gave me some insight (i got rid of the stuff that didn't work) and i re- engineered the internals. I'm currently waiting to get a 12v ESC in the mail, for turret rotation, and i was working on the elevation system today. I'm happy with the results, and hope to finish it this week. Here is a short video of the new elevation system: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vZwZ28ycasQ I also had some videos of the tank prior to full motor control failure. Check'em out: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=clXSqS9wLOA and http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gO4My3YQmG8 I also have some plans for a full suspension upgrade in the future, but i figure getting to a battle this year would be more of an accomplishment. -- You are currently subscribed to the "R/C Tank Combat" group. To post a message, send email to rctankcombat@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe, send email to rctankcombat+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com Visit the group at http://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat
[TANKS] Re: M1A1/M1A2 need help
new link should work. :) Jeremy B -- You are currently subscribed to the "R/C Tank Combat" group. To post a message, send email to rctankcombat@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe, send email to rctankcombat+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com Visit the group at http://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat
[TANKS] Re: M1A1/M1A2 need help
Lets try this link: https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/IJw3kxDz_8jgRsJsTTdhtQx3Q4trMxrOrxTYN8o46xQ?feat=directlink Jeremy B -- You are currently subscribed to the "R/C Tank Combat" group. To post a message, send email to rctankcombat@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe, send email to rctankcombat+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com Visit the group at http://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat
[TANKS] Re: M1A1/M1A2 need help
Ok, lets try this: https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/IJw3kxDz_8jgRsJsTTdhtQx3Q4trMxrOrxTYN8o46xQ?feat=directlink Jeremy B -- You are currently subscribed to the "R/C Tank Combat" group. To post a message, send email to rctankcombat@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe, send email to rctankcombat+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com Visit the group at http://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat
[TANKS] Re: M1A1/M1A2 need help
This is my new idea, with borrowed key concepts from other tanks. https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/__ZbhpEAws18/TXmqQ_OV7tI/ ADM/mUyoXSVR5j0/s144/Cam%20Down%2C%20Gun%20Up..jpg" height="108" width="144" />From https://picasaweb.google.com/109147730611355671707/Tank? authkey=Gv1sRgCILD2IvX3KCSHQ&feat=embedwebsite">Tank This should allow me to use the barrel's weight to lower the gun, and the cam will elevate it. I'm using a cam from above so that when the barrel rotates to the rear it can just 'ride' the rear deck without binding up the servo. I will set up a spring system to counter balance the barrel just enough so that the servo won't be killing itself to elevate. (This is my first attempt to embed a photo, so excuse me if it doesn't work) Jeremy B -- You are currently subscribed to the "R/C Tank Combat" group. To post a message, send email to rctankcombat@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe, send email to rctankcombat+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com Visit the group at http://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat
[TANKS] Re: M1A1/M1A2 need help
I've been working on the turret elevation problem with t-60. I just recently scrapped all my old ideas (which kinda worked, but weren't what i was looking for), and re-started with some new ideas. A quick question: For battle, is the max elevation 10 degrees? I figure if this is so, then full range of motion isn't really needed/allowed. Anyhow, i'm working on a cam and lever system hooked up to a 1/4 scale servo. If it works, i'll take some pictures. Been meaning to take some more pics and post them to the tank section anyhow. -- You are currently subscribed to the "R/C Tank Combat" group. To post a message, send email to rctankcombat@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe, send email to rctankcombat+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com Visit the group at http://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat
[TANKS] Re: I know this isn't real ......
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/M50_Ontos Thanks for sharing that. Its basically like a tank killing shotgun... they just use the 6 106mm recoilless rifles to blast the hell out of an enemy tank for a 'sure' kill. I love learning something new. Now, will anyone build it, and can it get a special ruling that if 5/6 shots hit its an instant kill? ;) Jeremy B. -- You are currently subscribed to the "R/C Tank Combat" group. To post a message, send email to rctankcombat@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe, send email to rctankcombat+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com Visit the group at http://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat
[TANKS] Bad SSR?
Hello, had the tank on the back burner for a while, but i'm back at it. I've been working on getting some problems sorted out, and i'm wondering if i have a faulty Crydom D1D40. I'm using one of Anvilus motor controllers, and on one motor i get proportional speed control, but on the other i just get 'on' or 'off'. Is there a defined way to check the Crydom D140 SSR published? I did a search but couldn't find anything. I'm sure i can just swap the working one for the bad one but i was wondering if there is a way to check new ones when purchased to see if they are 'good'. -- You are currently subscribed to the "R/C Tank Combat" group. To post a message, send email to rctankcombat@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe, send email to rctankcombat+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com Visit the group at http://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat
[TANKS] Re: drum servos
Not to hijack or anything, but wouldn't adding those two switchs just give you 'full on' or 'full off' in either direction? I"m not a electronics expert or anything, but i did hack a servo in an attempt to making a reliable elevate system, and when i took out the pot i found as a nice little bonus the 'gear motor' i basically had would go slow in one direction with a little push, and fast in that same direction when pushed all the way. If you can set up a regular gear motor to do that, can you show me how since i'm planning on using a gear motor to run my rotation? I figured i'd need some kind of speed control to get the motor to do that. On Feb 22, 6:34 pm, Frank Pittelli wrote: > Joker wrote: > > Analog servos can be 'hacked' to remove the stops. You basically need > > to remove the pot from the servo, and you get a gear motor that does > > free rotation in either direction, and its still has its 'speed > > control' so you can go slow or fast. > > Hmmm ... last time I checked, that's exactly what a geared motor will > do. Throw two inexpensive switches on a servo (aka. MAG Speed Control) > and wire them to an inexpensive geared motor and you have a far more > powerful solution. > > Frank P. --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You are currently subscribed to the "R/C Tank Combat" group. To post a message, send email to rctankcombat@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe, send email to rctankcombat-unsubscr...@googlegroups.com Visit the group at http://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
[TANKS] Re: drum servos
Analog servos can be 'hacked' to remove the stops. You basically need to remove the pot from the servo, and you get a gear motor that does free rotation in either direction, and its still has its 'speed control' so you can go slow or fast. I did it to one servo to get it to twist a piece of threaded rod. Its easy, compared to building the rest of the tank's systems ;). For instructions you can do a google search. Jeremy B. --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You are currently subscribed to the "R/C Tank Combat" group. To post a message, send email to rctankcombat@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe, send email to rctankcombat-unsubscr...@googlegroups.com Visit the group at http://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
[TANKS] Re: Motor Noise
Actually, thats what i did, and i'm pretty sure thats what all the diagrams told me to do. Seems crazy, but thats the recomendation. One cap going from + to -, one cap going from + to case, one cap going from - to case. I found multiple articles suggesting this. Here is the link to one article: http://www.teamdelta.com/pdf/tde_an1.pdf So far, i just did it to my 'test' motor. I figured i'd use an extra motor in case i messed up, or couldn't put it back together, but i figured that part out. I figure this, along with the new automotive relays with diodes in them, should do the trick, or else its back to the drawling board. Jeremy On Feb 5, 7:29 pm, "Doug Conn" wrote: > I can't tell from the photo ... did you solder one lead of the capacitor to > a motor power line and the other end to the motor case ? If so, I don't > think that's wise. > > - Doug > > > > -Original Message- > From: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com [mailto:rctankcom...@googlegroups.com] > > On Behalf Of Joker > Sent: Thursday, February 05, 2009 7:20 PM > To: R/C Tank Combat > Subject: [TANKS] Re: Motor Noise > > Ok, took a few more days then i figured, but i finally got some > pictures. I posted them in the files section. Uh, how do i put them > in the message? I'm sure i use to know how, but i forgot. Anyhow, > they are in the files section. Name stars "M" and has the specific > thing that i'm trying to point out. I put it all back together, and > works as good as when i started. > > On Jan 31, 1:14 am, Don Shankin wrote: > > I was going to suggest that you buy some diodes as well, but it looks like > > you're all set. What type of caps did you buy? (electrolytic, ceramic, > > expensive mylar...?) > > > Also, I don't know what you paid for the caps from Amazon, but if you've > > never been to the site before I usually get all of my stuff from > > futurlec.com. They are by far the cheapest place I've ever seen for > general > > components all the way up to things like ADCs and microcontrollers. The > > only downside is that the shipping can be hit or miss sometimes, and on > one > > order (out of dozens that I've placed) I had to wait for a while. > Otherwise > > they've been awesome. Also, I think they're based in australia, so you > guys > > may have better luck with shipping down there > > > On Fri, Jan 30, 2009 at 3:26 PM, Joker wrote: > > > > I broke one open. I'll take pictures of it tonight and post them. > > > Didn't see any capitors in the one's i bought off ebay. Bought a > > > whole bunch of 0.1uf cap's off amazon. figured i'd try to install > > > them to keep from frying relays. I also bought some relays with > > > diodes in them, in another attempt to keep me from frying relays. > > > I'll have to see if all my little bits work soon. I figure its this, > > > or start running my tank at 12v instead of 24v. > > > -- > > -- > > Donald Shankin > > Computer Engineering Undergrad > > Blue Marble Security Member > > IEEE Vice Chair, MTU Chapter > > NSBE Telecommunications Chair, MTU Chapter > > CAEL Partner > > (507) 301-2499 > > dtsha...@mtu.edu > > dshan...@gmail.com > > --- Hide quoted text - > > - Show quoted text - --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You are currently subscribed to the "R/C Tank Combat" group. To post a message, send email to rctankcombat@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe, send email to rctankcombat-unsubscr...@googlegroups.com Visit the group at http://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
[TANKS] Re: Motor Noise
Ok, took a few more days then i figured, but i finally got some pictures. I posted them in the files section. Uh, how do i put them in the message? I'm sure i use to know how, but i forgot. Anyhow, they are in the files section. Name stars "M" and has the specific thing that i'm trying to point out. I put it all back together, and works as good as when i started. On Jan 31, 1:14 am, Don Shankin wrote: > I was going to suggest that you buy some diodes as well, but it looks like > you're all set. What type of caps did you buy? (electrolytic, ceramic, > expensive mylar...?) > > Also, I don't know what you paid for the caps from Amazon, but if you've > never been to the site before I usually get all of my stuff from > futurlec.com. They are by far the cheapest place I've ever seen for general > components all the way up to things like ADCs and microcontrollers. The > only downside is that the shipping can be hit or miss sometimes, and on one > order (out of dozens that I've placed) I had to wait for a while. Otherwise > they've been awesome. Also, I think they're based in australia, so you guys > may have better luck with shipping down there > > On Fri, Jan 30, 2009 at 3:26 PM, Joker wrote: > > > I broke one open. I'll take pictures of it tonight and post them. > > Didn't see any capitors in the one's i bought off ebay. Bought a > > whole bunch of 0.1uf cap's off amazon. figured i'd try to install > > them to keep from frying relays. I also bought some relays with > > diodes in them, in another attempt to keep me from frying relays. > > I'll have to see if all my little bits work soon. I figure its this, > > or start running my tank at 12v instead of 24v. > > -- > -- > Donald Shankin > Computer Engineering Undergrad > Blue Marble Security Member > IEEE Vice Chair, MTU Chapter > NSBE Telecommunications Chair, MTU Chapter > CAEL Partner > (507) 301-2499 > dtsha...@mtu.edu > dshan...@gmail.com > -- --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You are currently subscribed to the "R/C Tank Combat" group. To post a message, send email to rctankcombat@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe, send email to rctankcombat-unsubscr...@googlegroups.com Visit the group at http://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
[TANKS] Re: Motor Noise
I broke one open. I'll take pictures of it tonight and post them. Didn't see any capitors in the one's i bought off ebay. Bought a whole bunch of 0.1uf cap's off amazon. figured i'd try to install them to keep from frying relays. I also bought some relays with diodes in them, in another attempt to keep me from frying relays. I'll have to see if all my little bits work soon. I figure its this, or start running my tank at 12v instead of 24v. --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You are currently subscribed to the "R/C Tank Combat" group. To post a message, send email to rctankcombat@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe, send email to rctankcombat-unsubscr...@googlegroups.com Visit the group at http://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
[TANKS] Motor Noise
I saw that motor noise may be causing my contacts to fry on my relay motor controller. I bought some capcitors to try to fix this, but i was wondering if you have to have them as close to the motor as possible (or to get the best effect), or if i can wire them into places where i already have connectors (like near the fuses, with a wire leading to the motor housings for that). I know logic says that near the motor is probably best, but the wires for the brushes lead into the case, and i'd have to cut the wires close to the case, and i don't prefer to do that. Just FYI, i'm using the MY1016 motors. --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You are currently subscribed to the "R/C Tank Combat" group. To post a message, send email to rctankcombat@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe, send email to rctankcombat-unsubscr...@googlegroups.com Visit the group at http://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
[TANKS] Re: Weight distribution.
Build it, test it, break it, replace it. Nothing beats real world engineering... except for that pesky calculation stuff... but i don't know enough of that (and what i did i'm starting to forget). Guess thats why i left engineering school. On Jan 28, 5:07 pm, Aahz wrote: > Guy Gregoire wrote: > > Hi Aahz > > > I use myself 16 gage steel so I can give a guess out of experience, im > > not an engineer. > > I would say your 8 sets will hold the weight very well, until the tank > > climb on a rock and > > most of his weight is on only one set. > > Yea, that's just my worry "Everything is fine... on flat ground... at > slow speeds." > > Aahz. --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You are currently subscribed to the "R/C Tank Combat" group. To post a message, send email to rctankcombat@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe, send email to rctankcombat-unsubscr...@googlegroups.com Visit the group at http://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
[TANKS] Re: Drive Cog Patterns
Thanks. This was great. I took the photo, scalled it, inverted the colors, and i'm using it as the template. Thanks again. On Dec 8, 4:41 am, "Chrysanthos Kanellopoulos" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > The diameter of the inner circle (green) could be 0.0873, with the clear > distance between the teeth 0.0350 = 1 3/8". That way, the pads fit between > the teeth. > The width of the tooth ~ 0.064 or 0.0638 m. or 1/4" wide. > The diameter of the outer circle, on the edge of the teeth would then be > 0.0993 m. = 3,901 " > I hope that helps and it is not more confusing! > > Chrys > > JOkers sprocket7.3.jpg > 123KViewDownload > > JOkers sprocket7.4.jpg > 66KViewDownload --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You are currently subscribed to the "R/C Tank Combat" group. To post a message, send email to rctankcombat@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe, send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] Visit the group at http://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
[TANKS] Drive Cog Patterns
I'm re-thinking my drive system, and after seeing a few people making some nice looking drive wheels, i was wondering how to do it. I've come to the conclusion that i should make a pattern, and try building from the pattern, as i have no way to CNC or computer aided building to assist me. The problem i'm facing is that i have been hand drawling patterns, and they just don't seem to come out right. Is there a simple program or does someone have a pattern that i could re- size and use? I'm looking to build one with 7 teeth, about 4" diameter, 1/4" wide teeth, and if possible 1 3/8" spacing between the teeth. I realize that the diameter will probably have to change to something a little bigger, and from my own drawlings i figure its somewhere between 4 1/8" and 4 1/4". If anyone is especially good with cad or something it would be really, really helpfull, as this is driving me nuts why i can't figure this out. --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You are currently subscribed to the "R/C Tank Combat" group. To post a message, send email to rctankcombat@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe, send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] Visit the group at http://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
[TANKS] Re: T062 Designated
Thats funny, because thats the same idea i have been trying to use. It's working less than perfect, but let me know if you have better luck getting it to work. Mine might just be the less than perfect circles i cut. I was wondering if maybe someone else's idea would work better. Looks good though. Jeremy Matt wrote: > I don't think they are from reinforced rubber, but I bought a 4x8 > sheet of 1/8inch rubber and cut it into sheets. I think it cost around > 40-50 dollars. TONS left over. > >-Matt > > On Nov 13, 11:07�pm, james <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > > Hay Matt > > �I'd like to say that's a very neat job on your tank. > > > > Your tracks Are thay made from strait rubber or renforced rubber. > > > > What is the thickness of it > > > > Hope you understand my writting > > James --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You are currently subscribed to the "R/C Tank Combat" group. To post a message, send email to rctankcombat@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe, send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] Visit the group at http://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
[TANKS] Re: T062 Designated
Looks really nice. How were you planning on doing turret rotation? Jeremy On Nov 11, 12:18 am, Matt <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > The Webspace for T62 has been updated if anyone wants to look at it. > > -Matt > > On Nov 9, 1:25 am, Marc <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > > > > > Very nice! I like the tracks, very detailed.- Hide quoted text - > > - Show quoted text - --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You are currently subscribed to the "R/C Tank Combat" group. To post a message, send email to rctankcombat@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe, send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] Visit the group at http://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
