Re: [TANKS] 3D printers

2016-05-03 Thread Thomas Lum
 I can recommend the Printrbot simple. We have them at school after I bought a 
personal one and tested it for 6 months and they print very well right out of 
the box. Also, if something goes wrong, the most expensive thing on them is the 
control board and that's less than $100. 
That would be in the same price range as the davinci. I know nothing about the 
davinci however. 
Tom

> On May 3, 2016, at 4:30 PM, 'neroc1' via R/C Tank Combat 
>  wrote:
> 
> Im looking at buying a 3D printer , I have heard much talk of them on here, 
> Im wondering what type to buy,
> If any of the tankers who own / use a 3D printer could tell me what they 
> bought and what they think of it Id be very grateful.
> One I have my eye on is the Da vinci 
> 
> http://recs.richrelevance.com/rrserver/click?a=493e4bf19aaf81b5=b6cf8626-bb85-4e46-5b9c-ff551e128759=1=rr1=6721=PersonalizedClickCPInCategory=106=0==-1=1462307226095=999be9c8-ed0b-4749-0227-5b544fd02af5=WEB=8817C37BB07909494B0C19C962CDB73D.app5=2204=uk=A88TQ=0=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.maplin.co.uk%2Fp%2Fda-vinci-11-plus-3d-printer-with-wi-fi-a88tq
> 
> Can anyone recommend this or any other ? 
> 
> Thanks fellas
> 
> 
> 
> 
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Re: [TANKS] 3D printers

2016-05-03 Thread Thomas Lum


> On May 3, 2016, at 4:30 PM, 'neroc1' via R/C Tank Combat 
>  wrote:
> 
> Im looking at buying a 3D printer , I have heard much talk of them on here, 
> Im wondering what type to buy,
> If any of the tankers who own / use a 3D printer could tell me what they 
> bought and what they think of it Id be very grateful.
> One I have my eye on is the Da vinci 
> 
> http://recs.richrelevance.com/rrserver/click?a=493e4bf19aaf81b5=b6cf8626-bb85-4e46-5b9c-ff551e128759=1=rr1=6721=PersonalizedClickCPInCategory=106=0==-1=1462307226095=999be9c8-ed0b-4749-0227-5b544fd02af5=WEB=8817C37BB07909494B0C19C962CDB73D.app5=2204=uk=A88TQ=0=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.maplin.co.uk%2Fp%2Fda-vinci-11-plus-3d-printer-with-wi-fi-a88tq
> 
> Can anyone recommend this or any other ? 
> 
> Thanks fellas
> 
> 
> 
> 
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[TANKS] Not quite autonomous but getting there

2015-06-04 Thread Thomas Lum

http://www.element14.com/community/community/designcenter/single-board-computers/gizmo2/blog/2015/05/16/self-driving-color-tracking-rc-car-with-gizmo-2?CMP=SOM-TW-NPI-GIZMO2-RCCAR



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Re: [TANKS] First Strike rounds and hit rules question

2013-01-08 Thread Thomas Lum

Those rounds are nice but $1 for 3 shots?  

On Jan 08, 2013, at 07:37 AM, TyngTech steve...@gmail.com wrote:

Any hit to a front view-able section does not count.  Track hits don't count.

On the FS ammo, I'd see that in use more in fixed artillery to start out with.  
Something were the operator can get down close to aim down the barrel (maybe 
with a camera aiming system).  You could have pre-planned firing zones with 
trajectories already figured out.  In a mobile application, I'd see you wasting 
a lot of very expensive paint re figuring your firing solutions after every 
move.

Steve

 

On Tuesday, January 8, 2013 1:31:17 AM UTC-5, fan fan wrote:
What do you guys think should be the rule regarding using First Strike rounds? 
FS magazines nowadays are getting small enough to fit into bigger tanks like 
KV2 or Lepard 2, and I was thinking about getting one.
Also what are the rules regarding hits to the top armor, detailing like command 
hatch and FLIR, and tracks? But what if the tracks got hit from the front.

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Re: [TANKS] Project Firestorm

2013-01-01 Thread Thomas Lum

Is it a tankette?  CV-33 or something?

On Jan 01, 2013, at 07:51 AM, TyngTech steve...@gmail.com wrote:

Since Joe already told me I'll pass on the guess.  I will say it will be a 
wonder of mechanical complexity when complete.  Looking forward to seeing 
Franks second tank, the T001.1

On another note, besides hopefully demoing a fully developed T-70 chassis with 
the new Tyng T-Max suspension this February.  Tyng TACD (Tyng Advanced Controls 
Division) will be showing off some new drive motors and motor drivers it has 
been evaluating.

Steve


On Monday, December 31, 2012 9:57:30 AM UTC-5, Frank Pittelli wrote:
It's been a while since I've built myself a tank from scratch, so I'm 
happy to report that Project Firestorm is off to a good start.  Plenty 
of difficult design/manufacturing tasks to keep me thinking and plenty 
of opportunities to refine things (i.e., redo them because they were 
wrong).  Before I reveal the project details, however, I'm posting this 
photo (taken by J.P.) to show what it really means to design on the 
fly.  All of the parts shown in the photo were used in the last month 
or so to prototype and/or construct parts of the vehicle's suspension. 
Some were intended as throw-away parts, others were simply mistakes. 
None of these parts will ever see the battlefield. 

Based on this collection of parts, what vehicle am I building? 


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Re: [TANKS] My T34/85

2012-09-15 Thread Thomas Lum

Very easy to build a reliable computer. They have a lot less parts than even 
the most basic lego set and snap together just as easy.  I built a full size 
tower and the only thing that gave (gives) me trouble is the d-link wireless 
card.  Almost every pc magazine publishes either online or paper version of a 
gamer pc under $1000 build.  Start there and don't skimp on the power supply.  
If you have a CompUSA near you, just walk in and tell them your budget.  Their 
prices are comparable to NewEgg and if something is wrong, you don't have to 
ship it back. 
Tom  

On Sep 15, 2012, at 05:10 PM, Dave D. degeck...@optonline.net wrote:

Hey Buck,
 
Re: building your own computer.  I had a computer that was built by a co-worker 
a while back, late 90's. It ran very well for many many years with barely any 
problems (nothing major, one or two tiny little problems).  Actually, finding 
the components wasn't that difficult, but we did purchase everything at a 
computer expo held at a local college.  But I would imagine with the Internet, 
purchases should be fairly easy.  The trick is knowing WHAT to buy...  but the 
net should have a wealth of info on that too.  I have a nephew who does new 
systems, he's a bright, 19yo kid, but I suspect that if he can build one, 
almost anyone can...  Good luck with it!!
 
Dave D.
- Original Message -
From: Buck Cronk
To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com
Sent: Saturday, September 15, 2012 2:04 PM
Subject: Re: [TANKS] My T34/85

Thanks guys. Return idlers was the word I was looking for. I think I'll stick to the tank. But since I live way out where I do, don't expect me coming around for any battles. Besides, I'm not sure my very first tank is going to turn out too well--if I get to battle with any of you I want it to be with a second tank already. :) I saw the (what's his name?) two latest tanks made by the same guy that were really cool. That's what I want to build like. 


Hey, have any of you built your own computer before? Just an idea in my head, 
but if you have I am currently putting together a parts list to go from 
someday. And buying computer parts right is probably the hardest part.


On Sat, Sep 15, 2012 at 6:46 AM, Mike Lyons mxly...@cox.net wrote:
until constrained by the drive sprocket, front/rear idler, or road wheels).

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Re: [TANKS] track talk

2011-11-02 Thread Thomas Lum

We have a printer at my school and would not mind printing some parts for 
people just to learn how it works. I'll get in touch with the tech guys and see what I 
need to do it. I did ask about cost and they said something crazy like $5 per cubic 
centimeter!

Tom

On Nov 02, 2011, at 09:25 AM, Frank Pittelli frank.pitte...@gmail.com wrote:


Here are the disadvantages of 3D printing compared to molding parts:

1) ABS plastic is not as durable as the polyurethane we use when molding
parts.

2) When molding, there's a 5 minute cycle time for a batch of parts (we
do 8 parts per batch), each part will probably take at least 15
minutes on a 3d printer.

3) The plastic used by the printer is more expensive per pound than that
used for molding.

4) If necessary, you can easily add a strip of fiberglass to molded
parts to increase strength. That is not possible with printing.

Basically, when it comes to mass-producing parts, molding is the
cheapest, fastest and most flexible approach.

As Joe said, the real winning combination is to use a 3D printer to make
the master part, then make molds from them. We've done that for a
couple of parts (drive cog, experimental pumps) and it works great. If
you do get a Thing-O-Matic, you should expect a never-ending stream of
3D requests from Maryland for master part production (in exchange for
mold making if you want).

Frank P.

On 11/1/2011 10:36 PM, Doug Conn wrote:
 The Thing-O-Matic uses ABS plastic and produce parts the
 required size and thickness.

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Re: [TANKS] Motor and Motor Controller

2011-10-12 Thread Thomas Lum

Until Steve replies, have you looked at his tank page?

http://www.rctankcombat.com/tanks/T040/



On Oct 12, 2011, at 09:54 PM, Bones tjs5...@gmail.com wrote:

Hey Steve, I was just wondering if you could provide some information
regarding how you ran your EV motors. If you get a chance, I would
greatly appreciate the help or help from anyone who has used EV
Warrior motors before. Thanks alot.

Bones

On Oct 12, 5:25 pm, Steve Tyng steve...@gmail.com wrote:

EV Warriors.  There's some on eBay currently.

http://www.robotcombat.com/products/0M-EVCCW.html

Steve


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Re: [TANKS] springs

2011-09-15 Thread Thomas Lum

I thought this had been discussed quite a bit already with spring rates and I 
think Steve and Frank had a few ideas about it as well.  I can't search here at 
work but a quick search should turn up exactly what you are looking for.
Tom

On Sep 15, 2011, at 01:58 PM, neroc funkyne...@ntlworld.com wrote:


Chris says no input from anyone on this , so im keeping quiet :)

Neil  here to please  R


On Sep 15, 10:35 am, Ryan W. rpw...@hotmail.com wrote:
 What kind of input you looking for?

 Ryan w.

 On Sep 15, 2011, at 11:50 AM, odysseyslipw...@aol.com wrote:







  In a message dated 9/13/2011 7:44:09 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, 
odysseyslipw...@aol.com writes:
  i know the tank will have 16 suspension points and am thinking if i divide 
the tank's weight by 16, take that number and it should be no more than say 1/3 of 
the springs work load (was thinking closer to 1/4 of the spring rate) - does this 
sound about right?
  no input from anyone on this?

  Chris,
  Odyssey Slipways
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Re: [TANKS] M1A1/M1A2 need help

2011-03-07 Thread Thomas Lum

How are you getting enough clearance at those scales to allow the gun to 
elevate and depress?  I'd love to see some good ideas since I am all out.
Thanks,
Tom

On Mar 07, 2011, at 02:52 PM, copperhead martin.hels...@earthlink.net wrote:


I am working on an aluminum hull for my 1/9th scale M1a1.

1/8th makes for a solid box :-)

- Martin

On Mar 5, 6:08 pm, Phil sasquevane...@aol.com wrote:
 Thanks guys I think the message is 1.5mm+ alu = good, 1mm alu = bad.
 (Possibly also chips = good). I've just been to my local hardware
 store and accidentally come away with some 4mm polycarbonate glazing
 sheet that I suspect will be suitable.

 Phil

 On Mar 2, 4:00 pm, Chrysanthos Kanellopoulos xchr...@otenet.gr
 wrote:



  I'vw used alumninum sheets with variable thickness for teh turrets. 1.5 - 2
  mms. Never tears or bends. Even the upper hulls of my designated Tankette
  and HAGO are built of 1.5 and 2 mm thick aliminium sheets and you've seen
  photos of these after battles. I am surprised to hear that. I am wondering
  if the pan is in fact a sheet that has been deformed in the press and has
  lost cohesion somehow
  Chrys

  - Original Message -
  From: Phil sasquevane...@aol.com
  To: R/C Tank Combat rctankcombat@googlegroups.com
  Sent: Wednesday, March 02, 2011 3:50 PM
  Subject: [TANKS] Re: M1A1/M1A2 need help

   What thickness of aluminium do you use, Chrys? The turret of T055 is
   made of alu (a chip pan) but it bends and tears when hit by
   paintballs.

   Phil

   On Mar 1, 6:48 am, Chrysanthos Kanellopoulos xchr...@otenet.gr
   wrote:
   Or, just build a cardboard paper mock up, try all the shapes and angles,
   cut with scissors, fit and hold them together with tape, then undo the
   paper turret and copy the individual shapes in aluminum sheet. Cut with a
   jigsaw.
   Chrys

   - Original Message -
   From: Thomas Lum
   To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com
   Sent: Monday, February 28, 2011 10:47 PM
   Subject: Re: [TANKS] M1A1/M1A2 need help

   Buy yourself a 1:18 scale toy off of eBay. It will be the best $30 you
   will spend on the tank (and don't buy a battle switch, but that's a
   different thread for another time.) 21st century makes the toy you want.

   Tom (stick with wood) Lum

   On Feb 27, 2011, at 11:49 PM, tdobbins381 tdobbins...@yahoo.com wrote:

   I'm trying to start a 1/6 M1A1. But I what to get every angle wright.
   I what to make it out of wood first. If it come out then I'll make it
   out of aluminum. I can't find all the right dimensions from a real
   one. Like all the angles on the top of the body by the turret. Can any
   one help with any part?

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[TANKS] Hand Tapping recommendations

2011-03-01 Thread Thomas Lum

In an effort not to buy a lathe, I was wondering if anyone had experience with 
either the stand alone hand tapping machines or using a drill press (not 
powered) to tap threads?  Wondering what I need to keep the tap perfectly 
vertical when tapping bar stock or round stock.

Tom


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Re: [TANKS] M1A1/M1A2 need help

2011-02-28 Thread Thomas Lum

Buy yourself a 1:18 scale toy off of eBay.  It will be the best $30 you will 
spend on the tank (and don't buy a battle switch, but that's a different thread 
for another time.)  21st century makes the toy you want.

Tom (stick with wood) Lum

On Feb 27, 2011, at 11:49 PM, tdobbins381 tdobbins...@yahoo.com wrote:


I'm trying to start a 1/6 M1A1. But I what to get every angle wright.
I what to make it out of wood first. If it come out then I'll make it
out of aluminum. I can't find all the right dimensions from a real
one. Like all the angles on the top of the body by the turret. Can any
one help with any part?

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Re: [TANKS] Electrical help with 24V/12V system.

2011-02-23 Thread Thomas Lum

Everything runs fine, I was just worried about anything (my remote door 
actuator / trigger) that was tied to the 12v side still being active after the 
switch was turned off. I haven't hooked it up yet but that was my worry Like I 
said, I wasn't sure if it was a problem, but I wanted to run it by more 
experienced eyes.
Tom

On Feb 23, 2011, at 08:50 AM, Steve Tyng steve...@gmail.com wrote:


What's the problem your having? Does the Scorpion work if you remove
the 12V wiring from your setup? I've never attempted to split a
battery bank like that always using a voltage regulator to provide
different voltages.

FYI, the Scorpion Mini isn't really rated for 24v out of the box.
It's best to remove the on-board voltage reg when running at 24V.

Steve

On Feb 22, 4:31 pm, Tommy Lum t...@me.com wrote:
 I am wiring up my turret and I have run into what I think is a problem  I am unsure if it's a major problem or not but I think my Scorpion Mini speed controller for the turret rotate is letting current back through it  I have attached a wiring diagram (be easy on it, I'm not an artist).  Should my multimeter be picking up current with the switch off and if so, is there a problem with it?  


 Thanks,
 Tom

  Turret Wiring.jpg
 37KViewDownload

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Re: [TANKS] Re: I know this isn't real ......

2011-02-18 Thread Thomas Lum
It's a lot of work for a 40/2 rating. 




On Feb 18, 2011, at 3:32 PM, SmithD smit...@myfairpoint.net wrote:

 I sit correctedbeehive DSmith
 
 On Feb 18, 1:11 pm, Pete Arundel pureteenl...@hotmail.com wrote:
 Honeycomb shot?
 
 I think you mean Beehive . . . :-)
 
 On Feb 18, 5:57 am, SmithD smit...@myfairpoint.net wrote:
 
 
 
 Hi all, This discussion (Is the Ontos a tank) was taken up over two
 years ago. The conclusion then was, it is a tank.
   For reference, the marines used these in Vietnam, most commonly for
 anti-personel work with honeycomb shot (105mm shotgun shell). For anti-
 tank work they used a shoot, scoot and hide routine. Reloading while
 out of sight.
   SmithD- Hide quoted text -
 
 - Show quoted text -
 
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Re: [TANKS] Re: Abandoning the T34

2011-02-14 Thread Thomas Lum
eBay. Search for my1016z3. TNC scooters is on there and they will combine 
shipping. 




On Feb 13, 2011, at 11:24 PM, Matt pilotm...@sbcglobal.net wrote:

 Hey you may remember me as the guy who built T062 (M1A2 Abrams)
 Anyway, I've been away at college for a while and doing more research.
 I have been wanting to replace the EV-warriors in my tank for some
 time. Where is the best place to get a hold of the M-01 Motors? I
 haven't been too active on here in a while and lost the links I had
 before. Thanks for the help.
 
-Matt
 
 On Jan 15, 8:59 am, HV henryverheg...@earthlink.net wrote:
 It's not so much the size of the car, as the trunk (boot?).
 
 On Jan 15, 10:58 am, neroc funkyne...@ntlworld.com wrote:
 
 wow ! thats either a very big tank of a very small car, how big is
 this tank ? Im building a 1/3rd Marder III and I`ll be able to get
 that in my car , only just , but it will go in.
 many US battlers use a trailer when battling , that way they can take
 plenty of equipment .
 
 Neil R
 
 On Jan 15, 1:58 pm, HV henryverheg...@earthlink.net wrote:
 
 Yeah, I've thought of doing that, or maybe if I could find an
 equivalent motor with a better power to weight ratio, I could
 eventually use the motors in a future light weight build. The M01s are
 rather heavy. I'd also have to figure out how to transport this tank,
 because I can't get it in my car.
 
 On Jan 15, 7:55 am, neroc funkyne...@ntlworld.com wrote:
 
 Why dont you fit a pair of M01 motors into your T34 ? you will get
 loads of help and advice from people who have replaced heavy
 drivtrains for M01`s, freeing up considerable weight and space.
 This course of action wont give you the tank that one person can pick
 up but I think this will get you into the hobby for this seasons
 battles. certainly quicker than building a new tank from scratch.
 
 Neil R
 
 On Jan 15, 11:56 am, HV henryverheg...@earthlink.net wrote:
 
 The reason for my post was to feel out if there was any interest in my
 tank, before I start to cannibalize it for parts. But there was not
 much interest, mainly due to budgetary constraints. That's OK, because
 the value of the tank in parts is at least what I paid for it. I felt
 it would be better to put any additional investment of time and money
 into a new, better design, using the old tank's parts. What's left
 over would be the chassis/hull and drive train of the tank, which
 hopefully I could sell. I would think the TTS tracks are especially
 valuable, because that is such a labor intensive component. The metal
 hull should also have value, because most people don't have the tools
 for cutting and welding a hull.
 
 
 
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Re: [TANKS] I know this isn't real ......

2011-02-14 Thread Thomas Lum

I think there is a rule about only one tube can be fired with one trigger 
press.  

On Feb 14, 2011, at 02:05 PM, neroc funkyne...@ntlworld.com wrote:


i promises you Jeremy , if you get 5/6 hit on one target , you got
yourself a kill .

Neil R


On Feb 14, 6:58 pm, Joker joker0...@earthlink.net wrote:
 http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/M50_Ontos

 Thanks for sharing that.  Its basically like a tank killing shotgun...
 they just use the 6 106mm recoilless rifles to blast the hell out of
 an enemy tank for a 'sure' kill.  I love learning something new.

 Now, will anyone build it, and can it get a special ruling that if 5/6
 shots hit its an instant kill?  ;)

 Jeremy B.

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Re: [TANKS] high current electrical components

2011-02-11 Thread Thomas Lum

For switches, this might be your best bet.  Also, if you live near a boat 
supply store, a lot of these items can be found there.

http://www.robotmarketplace.com/products/power_switches.html

I also picked up my fuses there.  The boating stores all deal in DC power.  
Other may be better at the conversion but AC fuses at 120 volts I don't think 
are 10 times more powerful at 12 volts.

Tom

On Feb 10, 2011, at 11:17 PM, Jason R Schafer jasonrscha...@gmail.com wrote:


I am trying to find some electrical components but am having some difficulty.

I am using two 450w 24v motors for drive.
I am thinking of using a Bussmann JT60060 fuse holder for circuit protection 
... what are you using?  450W/24V=18.75A*2 motors=37.5A*1.5=56.25 is a 60A fuse 
appropriate?
What are you using for a switch/disconnect?  I cannot find anything reasonably 
priced that is rated for 60A.  I would prefer something DIN mountable.

Thanks,
Jason

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Re: [TANKS] high current electrical components

2011-02-11 Thread Thomas Lum

I am a huge fan of Harbor Freight (Chinese Cheesecake Factory) but those $3 
switches have cause a few reports on the interwebs of trouble. Maybe someone 
else has experience with them?

On Feb 11, 2011, at 11:50 AM, Jeremy Caylor nighthawk...@gmail.com wrote:


Harbor Freight also has the keyed switches for cheap. Around 3$, that is if 
there is a store near your location.
On Feb 11, 2011 8:12 AM, Thomas Lum t...@me.com wrote:
 For switches, this might be your best bet. Also, if you live near a boat 
supply store, a lot of these items can be found there.

 http://www.robotmarketplace.com/products/power_switches.html

 I also picked up my fuses there. The boating stores all deal in DC power. 
Other may be better at the conversion but AC fuses at 120 volts I don't think are 
10 times more powerful at 12 volts.

 Tom

 On Feb 10, 2011, at 11:17 PM, Jason R Schafer jasonrscha...@gmail.com wrote:

 I am trying to find some electrical components but am having some difficulty.

 I am using two 450w 24v motors for drive.
 I am thinking of using a Bussmann JT60060 fuse holder for circuit protection 
... what are you using? 450W/24V=18.75A*2 motors=37.5A*1.5=56.25 is a 60A fuse 
appropriate?
 What are you using for a switch/disconnect? I cannot find anything 
reasonably priced that is rated for 60A. I would prefer something DIN mountable.

 Thanks,
 Jason

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Re: [TANKS] Re: Tiger I lower hull replacement

2011-02-04 Thread Thomas Lum
What was wrong with the hull, did it break someplace from a battle or something?




On Feb 4, 2011, at 4:21 PM, odysseyslipw...@aol.com wrote:

 well, i went and picked up the old hull bottom as they didn't seem to be 
 interested in letting me know a price.
  
 when i got there, he brought it out and told me the same thing - it can't be 
 made any stronger than what you have here, and with the fiberglass in it 
 making it stronger, we just can't do any better. i told him i am going to 
 glass it this spring when it gets nice out. he told me that it would cost me 
 about $250.00 to make the lower hull.
  
 the lower hull is back in the garage until i can find these other 2 wood 
 workers in the area, worse comes to be, i'll have to try to work with the 5' 
 x 5' Baltic Birch plywood in the garage and hope the radial arm saw cuts 
 straight..
  
 but now that it is here, i can put the one motor unit in, see how it fits (i 
 know there is space bwteen the 2 units, i just want to see how much, and how 
 much space batteries will take in case i can go to 5/16 or 3/8 ply wood on 
 the sides and bottom with no worries 
  
 Chris,
 Odyssey Slipways
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[TANKS] Full u1 batteries

2011-02-01 Thread Thomas Lum
I new to purchase new sla batteries since my ones from ptron1 went bad (avoid 
that guy on eBay). I noticed I could fit dual 35ah ones in my hull and wondered 
if anyone had opinions or a seller recommendation on eBay. Right now I am 
leaning toward batterygeek.
Thanks
Tom



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Re: [TANKS] surpluscenter - two different 25 pitch chain?

2011-01-27 Thread Thomas Lum
They only sell connecting links for the 25 regular if that influences your 
decision. 




On Jan 27, 2011, at 7:32 PM, odysseyslipw...@aol.com wrote:

 for those that ordered their 25 pitch chain from Surplus Center, while i was 
 just making a note of what i want to order this week from them, i took note 
 they have 2 different 25 pitch chains, was wondering what one you ordered?
  
 Chris,
 Odyssey Slipways
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Re: [TANKS] Basement Hoist

2011-01-26 Thread Thomas Lum
Not yet. I actually want it portable so I can put a ramp on my steps to the 
outside and be able to drag it up and down without needing someone else around 
when I need to do some testing outside.  I am looking for an excuse to get a 
lathe however...




On Jan 26, 2011, at 3:23 PM, Doug Conn dwconn...@comcast.net wrote:

 You'll like it :) Can yours slide along that beam to get some lateral
 movement ?
 
- Doug
 
 -Original Message-
 From: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com [mailto:rctankcombat@googlegroups.com]
 On Behalf Of Thomas Lum
 Sent: Wednesday, January 26, 2011 2:19 PM
 To: Tanks Tanks
 Subject: [TANKS] Basement Hoist
 
 Taking a cue from Doug, I used a few Harbor Freight gift cards from
 Christmas and pulled the trigger on installing a hoist in my basement to
 lift my Abrams up onto the workbench. I hope to have it back in action for
 the 2011 battle season. 
 Tommy
 
 
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Re: [TANKS] Reasons why track chain attachment throws off its sprocket

2011-01-25 Thread Thomas Lum
Attachment chain actually has a lot of lateral play for it's size. If your 
bogies aren't keeping it tracking correctly especially on turns at high speed, 
there is a good chance of a derailment. Also, although those sprockets are big, 
there isn't as much engagement as you would expect, the teeth aren't that deep 
and if the chain doesn't come in square to the sprocket it causes a lot of 
trouble. 




On Jan 25, 2011, at 7:22 PM, Doug Conn dwconn...@comcast.net wrote:

 Does it come off when going straight, or just when turning ? You may want to
 make the front and rear and sprockets are as aligned as possible. 
 
- Doug

 
 -Original Message-
 From: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com [mailto:rctankcombat@googlegroups.com]
 On Behalf Of Enzo Salas
 Sent: Tuesday, January 25, 2011 9:33 AM
 To: R/C Tank Combat
 Cc: nzosa...@yahoo.com
 Subject: [TANKS] Reasons why track chain attachment throws off its sprocket
 
 Hi,
 
 I use chain attachments with sprockets for my tracks and the problem
 is when I run my tank; the chain goes off my idler sprocket.. I
 already have two tensioners for each side.
 
 Any suggestions?
 
 
 Regards,
 Enzo
 
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Re: [TANKS] Series different AH rating for SLA bat

2011-01-24 Thread Thomas Lum

The good money is on this...

http://stores.headway-headquarters.com/-strse-69/HEADWAY-24V-16A-BATTERY/Detail.bok

Sure it's 8 times more expensive than SLA but it's 9 times cooler!


On Jan 24, 2011, at 03:53 PM, Steve Tyng steve...@gmail.com wrote:


Enzo wrote:

 I want to produce 24 volts with the least battery weight..


Buy eight of these and voila!

http://stores.headway-headquarters.com/-strse-3/Headway%2C-batteries%2C-EV%2C-electric/Detail.bok


Steve

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Re: [TANKS] Re: Mini table saws

2011-01-22 Thread Thomas Lum
Which one do you have?





On Jan 22, 2011, at 9:12 PM, Gregory Kampjes sockles...@gmail.com wrote:

 I've found that my mini table saw isn't very good and has a habit of 
 backcutting, since the guide doesn't sit parallel by itself and you have to 
 make sure that it does yourself. Also the one I have doesn't let you cut 
 grooves with it, as the splitter at the end doesn't lower, which removes a 
 fair bit of functionality from it.
 
 -Gregory
 
 On Thu, Jan 20, 2011 at 2:30 AM, Steve Tyng steve...@gmail.com wrote:
 Never used one myself but the makes you mention appear to be well
 made.  The Brynes looks to have a larger following in the modeling
 community.  Apparently Dremel used to make a well made mini saw and a
 couple are on eBay currently.
 
 
 Steve
 
 
 
 On Jan 18, 1:46 pm, Thomas Lum t...@me.com wrote:
  Does anyone have some opinions on those mini table saws from Praxxon or Jim 
  Brynes?
  Tom
 
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[TANKS] Mini table saws

2011-01-18 Thread Thomas Lum
Does anyone have some opinions on those mini table saws from Praxxon or Jim 
Brynes?
Tom

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Re: [TANKS] anyone know of a source for light weight fiberglass cloth?

2010-07-26 Thread Thomas Lum
Marine stores





On Jul 26, 2010, at 8:23 AM, odysseyslipw...@aol.com wrote:

 DIY shop? can't say i've heard of a store around here called DIY (and yes 
 I know what DIY stands for)
  
 Chris,
 Odyssey Slipways
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Re: [TANKS] oilite bushings

2010-07-15 Thread Thomas Lum
You better have cash in spades. I love mcmaster Carr but those bushings are 
expensive if you don't find them surplus. Check eBay as well. 




On Jul 15, 2010, at 8:59 AM, odysseyslipw...@aol.com wrote:

 In a message dated 7/15/2010 5:46:05 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time, 
 ki4...@gmail.com writes:
 McMaster-Carr has them in spades...
 i'll give them  look
  
 Chris,
 Odyssey Slipways
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Re: [TANKS] where to buy tredmill tred.

2010-07-10 Thread Thomas Lum
Ryan, where are you located?

The reason I ask is I bought several samples of conveyor belting from McMaster 
Carr that was recommended to me by Steve Tyng.  I can send you those samples 
and you can decide what one you want to use.  Steve might know the exact one 
but I bought a few 1ft pieces to feel them and see how flexible they were.
Tom
On Jul 10, 2010, at 11:17 AM, ryan wells wrote:

 No i was building my sherman to 1/5 scale.
 
 Ryan P.
 
 
  
  Date: Sat, 10 Jul 2010 09:40:32 -0400
  Subject: Re: [TANKS] where to buy tredmill tred.
  From: ki4...@gmail.com
  To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com
  
  Ryan, isn't your Sherman a much smaller scale than 1/6? If so, you
  might want to find a material that will bend to the radius of your
  idler and bogey wheels.
  
  
  -- 
  Clark in Georgia
  
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Re: [TANKS] Ev warrior motors

2010-07-08 Thread Thomas Lum
Could it be the plug for the cord?  Can you post a pic of the area in  
question?





On Jul 8, 2010, at 4:33 PM, Travis Butterfield tkbbetterthan...@yahoo.com 
 wrote:


I bought some motors, but idk anything about them really. They have  
this thing on the side I am assuming that is battery, but idk. Does  
anybody else have them that could help me?


Sent from my iPod




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Re: [TANKS] multi-link wide chain

2010-06-06 Thread Thomas Lum

Surplus center.




On Jun 6, 2010, at 4:57 PM, odysseyslipw...@aol.com wrote:

anyone recall where to look for those wide timing chain looking  
chains, something like off of a cycle


Chris,
Odyssey Slipways
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Re: [TANKS] multi-link wide chain

2010-06-06 Thread Thomas Lum
I'm not sure how much you know about chain but 160 pitch is enormous  
and that weight sounds right.





On Jun 6, 2010, at 7:12 PM, odysseyslipw...@aol.com wrote:

i do see they have some in 3 and 4 link wide chains, but i can't  
make sense out of the pitch they have listed for them. i also don't  
see any other useful info on them such as width


https://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?item=1-1163-160-4catname=powerTrans
i think they goofed on the weight - don't think it's 290 pounds

https://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?item=1-2890-10B-3catname=powerTrans

https://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?item=1-1163-40-4catname=powerTrans
now this one has 40 pitch listed, so i know that's the same as  
what's going on the Tiger but still lacks info such as width


https://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?item=1-2890-12B-3catname=powerTrans
what's 12b?

https://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?item=1-2890-16B-3catname=powerTrans
12b?

https://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?item=1-2890-20B-3catname=powerTrans
20b (and 80lbs, a bit too much weight to be adding to a tank just  
for one of the tracks)


https://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?item=1-2890-28B-3catname=powerTrans
wait, 207 pounds? just how big is this at 10'

https://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?item=1-2890-32B-3catname=powerTrans
and this one is over 200lbs for a 10' length as well - i don't think  
they tiger will weight that much going into battle (well maybe)


Chris,
Odyssey Slipways
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Re: [TANKS] New video

2010-05-26 Thread Thomas Lum
Is that thing as big as it looks or do you live in a 3/5th scale house?  lol

On May 25, 2010, at 9:27 PM, NavyShooter wrote:

 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2EjH7SOsDJg
 
 Tried editing my tank's page (T066) to include it, but I think I've
 done something wrong
 
 Anyhow, here she is.
 
 Brad
 
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Re: [TANKS] Absolute genius

2010-05-18 Thread Thomas Lum
I think I speak for a few when I say I have always been interested in what you 
are doing with small tanks and would love to see this set-up explained by 
someone other than a guy looking to sell it.

Tom
 
On Tuesday, May 18, 2010, at 06:23AM, George Mastoras id...@optusnet.com.au 
wrote:
Hey all, long time no post.
Just noticed this D drive and I just happen to have started on a triple diff
transmission using planetary gears for my big tank
There are so many similarities with the D drive and a modern triple diff
tank transmission.
What this guy has done is modify the steering diff to become a drive diff.
The smaller motor to change the ratio is the motor that would steer the tank
and give it reverse. It works exactly the same.

When I saw this I understood it because I have been toying for a few months
and have already started buying the gears etc.

The difference is in the D drive the main motor is permanently running at
optimum speed and the smaller motor changes the gear ratio to the point of
also giving it reverse.
In a tank the main motor has a variable speed and the steering has also so
when combined you can mix between the two to get speed and steering.

Still early days for pics but if there is any interest in this project I
will put some up.

I have built many vehicles and its become clear that a 3 diff setup is what
I have been looking for, its a beautiful thing but not required for paint
ball at all, having said that I do expect to have a lot more control at high
speeds compared to a skid steer tank, will be interesting.


George



On 17/5/10 2:13 AM, Clark Ward Jr ki4...@gmail.com wrote:

 Thanks Bill, your drill-press example cleared it up for me quite a bit :)
 
 On Sun, May 16, 2010 at 11:38 AM, Bill Hamilton billw...@gmail.com wrote:
 A cone-and-belt cvt works like the pulley stacks in a drill press drive.
 Only, instead of two sets of pulleys, you have two cones and a mechanism to
 keep the belt taut on those cones.  Move the belt one way and you get more
 torque, less speed. Move it the other, you get more speed, less torque.
 
 -Bill Hamilton
 
 On May 16, 2010, at 9:34 AM, Clark Ward Jr ki4...@gmail.com wrote:
 
 Thanks, my Bosch blue book doesn't have a lot of detail on how exactly
 a CVT works, only something about a band that moves between two
 cones  I will find a book that explains it someday.  But I agree,
 anytime someone claims an 'order of magnitude' efficiency improvement,
 it's time to be skeptical.
 
 On Sun, May 16, 2010 at 7:40 AM, Ben Holko b...@holnet.net wrote:
 
 A CVT should not slip, if it does it has too much torque put through it.
 A 'la it WILL slip if you put more torque through than it can handle.
 Having
 said that, there is friction there which is what is stopping it from
 slipping, while this geared approach has (basically) no friction. Think of
 it like the gears of a manual gearbox, with the variability of a CVT.
 
 Ben
 
 
 -Original Message-
 From: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com
 [mailto:rctankcom...@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of Clark Ward Jr
 Sent: Sunday, 16 May 2010 9:26 PM
 To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com
 Subject: Re: [TANKS] Absolute genius
 
 Aren't CVTs less efficient than geared transmissions, given that they are
 slipping the whole time?  Or do I misunderstand the technology vis-a-vis
 the
 slipping belt and the cones of a CVT?
 
 On Sat, May 15, 2010 at 10:26 PM, Don Shankin dshan...@gmail.com wrote:
 
 
 On Sat, May 15, 2010 at 7:19 PM, Ben Holko b...@holnet.net wrote:
 
 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F6zE__J0YIU
 
 
 
 This thing may revolutionize all transmissions.
 
 
 
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 Nice concept.  I'm glad they addressed my concern of having to power
 the second shaft.  I was on board until he said he estimated it to be
 an _order of magnitude_ more efficient than the current CVT
 transmissions (not geared transmissions, but CVTs even!).  We'll see
 where this ends up when you figure in powering that second shaft.  I'm
 guessing (with no facts or numbers whatsoever) that it will be on par
 with losses associated with a torque converter (which may be OK
 because at the end of the day this thing is still a high-torque CVT).
 
 -Don I'm a computer engineer not a mechanical engineer Shankin
 
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Re: [TANKS] sherman m4a3

2010-05-14 Thread Thomas Lum

You want these motors or ones exactly like them.
http://www.anvilus.com/motor01.html

Joe has a list of the vendors underneath since I think he doesn't buy  
them anymore. You can also try tnc scooters





On May 14, 2010, at 5:10 PM, ryan wells rpw...@hotmail.com wrote:


would these motors be efficient?
http://www.robotmarketplace.com/products/AME-210-1009.html
Ryan P.


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Re: [TANKS] spektrum radios

2010-05-14 Thread Thomas Lum

No crystals necessary for the spektrums.




On May 14, 2010, at 5:00 PM, ryan wells rpw...@hotmail.com wrote:

Would I need to buy radio crystals separate from the reciver and  
radio?

Thanks for the help on the servos.

Ryan P.



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Re: [TANKS] spektrum radios

2010-05-13 Thread Thomas Lum
Sounds like you need a lot of questions answered about rc gear.  The  
receiver will work off of usually the speed controller in your  
vehicle. If you need to, you can just use regular batteries since the  
rx (receiver) doesn't draw a lot of power.  Most servos will work  
directly by plugging them into the rx, digitals included.  A servo  
programmer is usually used for precise control to set the end points  
and throw and speed of throw for each servo, like for rc jets or some  
high detail scale models, usually not tanks.


Now a question for you, do you NEED digital servos?  Usually they are  
needed for airplanes or helis that need constant adjustment and  
position sensing.  Might find an analog servo of similar specs for 1/3  
if the cost.


I'm no expert but that's what I've pick up for running rc for a while.


On May 13, 2010, at 6:13 PM, ryan wells rpw...@hotmail.com wrote:

If I get the optional receiver with the spektrum 5 channel  
transmitter do i need to buy a rechargeable battery for the  
receiver? Will i need to buy a charger for that battery? Will  
spektrum digital servos work with the optional reveiver? Do i need  
to buy a servo programer? Please answer these ASAP.


Ryan P.


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Re: [TANKS] sherman m4a3

2010-05-13 Thread Thomas Lum
135 watts would need a lot of gearing to run a tank.  Continents would  
move faster.  It's been said a few times before but the m01 motor is  
an unstoppable motor and it comes with almost perfect gearing.  It  
should be on anyone's short list for tank propulsion.





On May 13, 2010, at 4:53 PM, ryan wells rpw...@hotmail.com wrote:

would these motors provide enough power for a tank? Running at  
12v.   http://www.allelectronics.com/make-a-store/item/DCM-130/24VDC-135W-MOTOR-W/BELT-GEAR/1.html


Ryan P.


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RE: [TANKS] spektrum radios

2010-05-13 Thread Thomas Lum
Honestly, I didn't know spektrum made servos.  Servos come from a lot of 
manufacturers, Hitec, Futaba, Hobbico, Tower Hobbies, and more that I am 
forgetting.  I'm not saying a Spektrum servo isn't what you want but you may 
want to check out tower hobbies website and get a feel for all the options out 
there.  I think they also have a few guides as to how all the components link 
and work together, it can be confusing when starting out but it's fairly 
straight forward once you get a handle on it.
Tom

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Re: [TANKS] batteries

2010-04-25 Thread Thomas Lum
Might want to check eBay but you will find shipping will be almost as  
much as the item.





On Apr 25, 2010, at 6:18 PM, ryan wells rpw...@hotmail.com wrote:

Im having trouble finding a website that sells a 12v 20ah battery.  
can anyone give me a suggestion.







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Re: [TANKS] Re: #2060 attachment chain

2010-01-06 Thread Thomas Lum
It's hard to tell from the picture but the tables look like they are touching 
when the chain is flat.  If you want to run suspension on your tank, it could 
be a problem when the track goes to bend over a rock or ledge.
 
On Jan 6, 2010, at 8:23 PM, Mark Massey wrote:

 Derek:
  
 Check out this stuff:
 http://pt.rexnord.com/products/e-catalog/sproducts.aspx?srch=1864AK3-1/4srchtype=2srchscope=Keyword
  
 It is #60 carbon steel chain with a “snap on” stainless steel “table top”.
 It is 3.25 inch wide and weighs 2.5 pounds per foot – TOO HEAVY
 Over 100 feet of this stuff is available for about $65 / 10 foot box – 
 shipped.
  
 Is it too heavy?
 Will the “snap-on” table top pop off in use?
 Will it dig in and not slip sideways on a turn?
  
 Give me your opinion, please?
 I want 20 feet out of this lot.
  
 Thanks!
 Mark
  
 From: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com [mailto:rctankcom...@googlegroups.com] On 
 Behalf Of Derek Engelhaupt
 Sent: Monday, January 04, 2010 6:09 PM
 To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com
 Subject: Re: [TANKS] Re: #2060 attachment chain
  
 Nope,  I'm still looking for a source also.
 
 Derek
 T065
 
 On Mon, Jan 4, 2010 at 4:31 PM, AES andyman61...@yahoo.com wrote:
 OUCH!  not in my budget either.  Is the stuff a mamber was selling foe a 
 couple bucks a foot still available, maybe I can make due with it.  Any 
 chance of a Winter Tank expo inthe near future?
  
 Andy
  
 From: Mark_123521 gatlinggunm...@sbcglobal.net
 To: R/C Tank Combat rctankcombat@googlegroups.com
 Sent: Mon, January 4, 2010 4:58:52 PM
 Subject: [TANKS] Re: #2060 attachment chain
 
 I need about 18 feet also.
 
 I called tsubaki (http://www.ustsubaki.com/) a week ago.
 They make chain.
 
 Their list price was $47 per foot !!
 
 WHAT??? Too expensive for me!! -- gotta find some used chain.
 
 
 Mark
 
 
 On Jan 4, 12:44 pm, amigaman andyman61...@yahoo.com wrote:
  Looking to get some of this type of chain  Can anyone point me in the
  right direction with a reasonable cost.  Need enough for 66 tracks
  total.
 
  Andy
 
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Re: [TANKS] Re: #2060 attachment chain

2010-01-06 Thread Thomas Lum
That's what reading gets ya...

On Jan 6, 2010, at 9:14 PM, Clark Ward Jr wrote:

 Re-reading the specs, the back-flex radius is 12, should be enough to
 allow a little movement with bumps.
 
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Re: [TANKS] Rubber for Wheels

2010-01-04 Thread Thomas Lum
Any type of hose that works for your outer diameter and resists what you are 
scraping against it. Radiator, cooling, clear hose / tubing from Lowes/HD.

On Jan 4, 2010, at 3:36 PM, odysseyslipw...@aol.com wrote:

 In a message dated 1/4/2010 3:06:32 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, t...@me.com 
 writes:
 I used hose material on my wheels.  
 like you would use for ponds, pools and things of that nature? not quite a 
 hard plastic, but not rubber.
  
 Chris,
 Odyssey Slipways
 
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[TANKS] Status of Brummbar Speed Controllers?

2010-01-02 Thread Thomas Lum
I was wondering how the scooter speed controllers worked out on the T012?  Any 
field test results?

Thanks,
Tom

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Re: [TANKS] Re: 1:6 all up weight?

2009-12-20 Thread Thomas Lum
We need to hear from Will Montgomery, his tank was scale both in size and 
weight.

On Dec 20, 2009, at 5:41 PM, Susan Gutbrodt wrote:

 The Brummbar (T012) weighs in @ 140 lbs ready to patrol the Desert (NO snow 
 so far this year)
 
 Kurt (Long Live the Alliance)G
 
 - Original Message - 
 From: Clark Ward Jr ki4...@gmail.com
 To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com
 Sent: Sunday, December 20, 2009 7:39 AM
 Subject: Re: [TANKS] Re: 1:6 all up weight?
 
 
 Fred, why so thick for the hull?  Forget paintballs, you could
 probably bounce .22 short rounds :)
 
 -- 
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Re: [TANKS] Re: 1:6 all up weight?

2009-12-20 Thread Thomas Lum
good plan. 

On Dec 20, 2009, at 8:17 PM, wsmon...@aim.com wrote:

 I've never weight the SU100. I pick the right time to go Florida. No snow to 
 shovel. Until I get home Christmas Eve. It's 1/6 scale I think. around 40 
 long.
 
 Will
 
 
 -Original Message-
 From: Thomas Lum t...@mac.com
 To: Tanks Tanks rctankcombat@googlegroups.com
 Sent: Sun, Dec 20, 2009 7:22 pm
 Subject: Re: [TANKS] Re: 1:6 all up weight?
 
 We need to hear from Will Montgomery, his tank was scale both in size and 
 
 weight.
 
 
 
 On Dec 20, 2009, at 5:41 PM, Susan Gutbrodt wrote:
 
 
 
  The Brummbar (T012) weighs in @ 140 lbs ready to patrol the Desert (NO snow 
 
  so far this year)
 
  
 
  Kurt (Long Live the Alliance)G
 
  
 
  - Original Message - 
 
  From: Clark Ward Jr ki4...@gmail.com
 
  To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com
 
  Sent: Sunday, December 20, 2009 7:39 AM
 
  Subject: Re: [TANKS] Re: 1:6 all up weight?
 
  
 
  
 
  Fred, why so thick for the hull?  Forget paintballs, you could
 
  probably bounce .22 short rounds :)
 
  
 
  -- 
 
  Clark in Georgia
 
  
 
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Re: [TANKS] Re: 1:6 all up weight?

2009-12-19 Thread Thomas Lum
Nice work as always.  Any pics of your camera boom to get such nice shots?
Tom

On Dec 19, 2009, at 8:19 PM, George Mastoras wrote:

 A bit off topic, finally got some time to do some tanking so made a vid, 
 tried standing on my tank for first time.
 Weight is about 45 kilos, Voltage is still at 12volt. 
 
 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y5tfvQjeOFI
 
 
 On 20/12/09 11:56 AM, Derek Engelhaupt tan...@gmail.com wrote:
 
 Since I have PVC left over, I was going to rebuild the hull of my M113 out 
 of PVC.
 Although the whole thing will probably be 1/2 PVC due to the fact that's 
 all I have 
 left.  It will increase the weight somewhat, but the 450W motors are more 
 than 
 up the task to power it.  I should get the scale out and see what the KV-2 
 is weighing
 at this point.  I'm putting the new metal lathe to work turning the sprocket 
 hubs down
 to decrease weight and add some detail to the face of them.
 
 Derek
 T065
 
 On Sat, Dec 19, 2009 at 5:59 PM, Ben Holko b...@holnet.net wrote:
 T067 weighs in at about 80kg currently, perhaps another 5kg or so to add 
 yet.
  
 I am about to make an M113 out of steel and by my calcs with 2mm steel it 
 will not be anywhere near 100kg. Of course it will only be 75cm long, wont 
 have a turret. If you went for a 1/6 Abrams or similar large vehicle then I 
 guess you could hit 100kg easily.
  
 Ben
  
  
 From: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com [mailto:rctankcom...@googlegroups.com] 
 On Behalf Of Gregory Pwneror
 Sent: Sunday, December 20, 2009 9:55 AM
 To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com
 Subject: Re: [TANKS] Re: 1:6 all up weight?
 
  
 They seem to be about 50-100kg (No, I'm not converting it for you), 
 depending on what they are made out of. A mild steel tank would weigh 
 upwards of 100kg I would think. Has anyone actually made a steel tank?
 
 -Gregory
 
 On Sun, Dec 20, 2009 at 6:27 AM, Fred Thomson f...@thomson-online.org 
 wrote:
 My Bulldog is a porky 200lbs.
 
 Cheers,
 Fred
 
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Re: [TANKS] Re: Wheels and Sprockets

2009-12-15 Thread Thomas Lum
They are also good if you want a flat bottom (with just a little indent in the 
center) in the piece you are drilling and don't want the hole to go all the way 
through. 
 
On Dec 15, 2009, at 3:46 PM, Doug Conn wrote:

 for really precise holes in plywood get yourself a nice Forstner bit set
 
 I see those in the hardware store and I always wonder what they were for.
 Just another useful tidbit of knowledge gleaned from this group !
 
   - Doug
 
 -Original Message-
 From: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com [mailto:rctankcom...@googlegroups.com]
 On Behalf Of Steve Tyng
 Sent: Tuesday, December 15, 2009 3:34 PM
 To: R/C Tank Combat
 Subject: [TANKS] Re: Wheels and Sprockets
 
 I concur, a power miter saw is a good way to make wheels (and somewhat
 safer).  The road wheels on T047 (http://rctankcombat.com/tanks/T047/)
 were made this way.  The Cromwell's turret rotate drive and elevate
 wheels were also cut on the miter-saw (http://rctankcombat.com/tanks/
 T040/13Cromwell038-large.jpg,
 http://rctankcombat.com/tanks/T040/13Cromwell036-large.jpg).
 
 Hint: for really precise wheels bore the center bearing hole first and
 use the actual bearings and shafting you will use in the tank to build
 your rotate jig.  Another hint: for really precise holes in plywood
 get yourself a nice Forstner bit set.  Don't waste your time with
 twist or spade bits.
 
 Steve Tyng
 
 
 On Dec 14, 6:09 pm, neroc funkyne...@ntlworld.com wrote:
 Clark my good man , I found the best way of making plywood wheels was
 with a chop sawhttp://www.rctankcombat.com/tanks/T051/22-large.jpg
 I bolted the work piece down securely with a large nut and rotated the
 wheel taking off smaller and smaller `chunks` . The foto doesn’t show
 a wheel as such but the principle is the same .
 I don’t like the idea of wheel making with a table saw , control is
 vital .
 
 Neil R
 
 On Dec 13, 4:26 pm, Clark Ward Jr ki4...@gmail.com wrote:
 
 You guys who cut sprockets on your bandsaws... is there a
 sprocket-drawing-page online that'll do the mathematical heavy lifting
 and draw me a pattern?
 
 And for the many fellows who've cut roadwheels on their tablesaws with
 a jig: how do you deal with avoiding kickback of the little pieces
 that get cut off?
 
 Many thanks! :)
 
 --
 Clark in Georgia
 
 
 
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Re: [TANKS] some information needed ....

2009-12-02 Thread Thomas Lum
 

here's my list of topics i would like to know more about :

-- motors ? i saw everybody here's using big motors with a lot of
power (120W and more)
  but your models are 1/6, so thats a LOT bigger. how could i like
calculate what torque would i need, what
  rpm, for my tank. i currently have 2 stepper motors, with 50mN/m (i
think thats like 40inchlbs, not sure tho)
  but they seem a little bit to small.

First tip, it's easier for us to build on 1/6th scale because almost all the 
hard work has been done for us.  Most know what works and what doesn't.  If you 
blaze out into a different direction, you are going to have to buy and test a 
lot of things yourself.  Your motors depend of your tank weight.  Make your 
build modular so you can switch something out easily if it doesn't work.

-- drive shafts, coupling, connecting wheels.
   basicly i have no idea how to do that. i know what i would need to
do in theory, but how exactly do you connect
   another longer shaft on that small shaft of a dc motor ? (its too
small to drill thru or anything) ?

Most of the time the motor has a shaft that you connect either a pulley or 
sprocket to.  You then use belt or chain to attach that to either a second belt 
or pulley, or sometimes directly to the main axle shafts.

 how do
   i connect non-powered wheels (the middle ones) so they can turn on
the saft, 

Bearings and lock collars

and how to connect the
  powered wheels so they cant turn on the shaft ? 

Usually you use set screws, keyed shaft or you have to fabricate something to 
mate the shaft to the wheel (I think the Cromwell, Tiger or Comet has a good 
pic of this)

all little things
like this, basicly some building manuals, tutorials,
   books, anythings with pictures would come in handy.

Read every tank build on the website, that is a bible of building.  Also look 
at the tanks that are old and still going.  Cromwell, Comet, Tiger, Hetzer, 
SU-100, Bad Kitty, and a few more I am forgetting.  Anyone (almost) can build a 
website tank that never goes to a battle (me for instance), but those tanks I 
mentioned are punished and still run every battle.  They are a guide to what 
works well.  

Also anything Frank says is gospel.

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Re: [TANKS] were to start

2009-11-23 Thread Thomas Lum
Start with batteries and drivetrain  The widths of those items cannot be 
altered much.  For instance if you are going to use M01 motors, you need about 
12 inside.  That will dictate your scale size.  Battery height is another 
consideration.  Be sure to include space for your terminal connectors.
 
On Monday, November 23, 2009, at 05:20PM, Kamron Duncan kamd...@gmail.com 
wrote:


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[TANKS] Re: 7 TP

2009-07-15 Thread Thomas Lum

I used MDO plywood on my last tank, it's what they make outdoor store  
signs from and when painted, it's completely smooth like glass, almost  
too smooth for a tank!  I'm not sure about the exact price but it is  
probably more expensive than cabinet grade plywood, but it doesn't  
(can't) be sanded due to the finish on the wood.  Do not confuse it  
with the more available MDF though.
Tom
On Jul 15, 2009, at 9:20 AM, Steve Tyng wrote:


 If you want a smooth finish on your plywood tank, first start with
 decent plywood.  I cringe every time I see a tank being built out of
 cheap AC exterior fir plywood.  Not much you can do with cheap ply
 other than cover it with fiberglass cloth and resin.  Look for plywood
 with a nice exterior veneer of some sort of fine grained wood like
 birch, poplar, or maple.  I'd avoid oak or luan veneered plywood due
 to the open grain of these woods.  The types of plywood I am
 describing are usually marketed as cabinet grade or some other such
 nomenclature.  They are also usually interior grade but that's not an
 issue since were building tanks here and not boats and you'll seal the
 edges anyway.  I prefer finishing with two coats of TiteBond2
 waterproof glue.  The first coat fills the pores, and once lightly
 sanded and covered with a second coat, leaves a very smooth base for
 your paint.  For paint I prefer a quality flat interior latex house
 paint (it's cheap and can be mixed to any color you want).  For a
 sand-casted look Rustolium makes several varieties of textured spray
 paints that can be used to add depth to your hull.

 If you build out of decent plywood and finish as described you will
 not have to fiberglass or otherwise spend an inordinate amount of time
 working on the exterior finish of your tank.


 Steve Tyng


 


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[TANKS] Re: 7 TP

2009-07-14 Thread Thomas Lum

You can MIG it, they make special spool guns for it since it's hard to  
push aluminum wire through the MIG tube for 10'
Tom Can't afford a spool gun Lum
On Jul 14, 2009, at 8:32 PM, Doug Conn wrote:


 I always understood that you could not MIG weld aluminum. Is that  
 correct ?


 -Original Message-
 From: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com [mailto:rctankcombat@googlegroups.com 
 ]
 On Behalf Of Frank Pittelli
 Sent: Tuesday, July 14, 2009 8:16 PM
 To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com
 Subject: [TANKS] Re: 7 TP


 Gregory Pwneror wrote:
 TIG welders certainly make much nicer welds than MIGs, but how much
 harder is it to use comparatively to a MIG?

 Actually, weld beauty depends more on the person doing the welding  
 than
 the type of welder being used.  You can lay down some very nice  
 looking
 welds with a MIG welder if you have a steady hand and you can lay down
 some truly ugly welds with a TIG welder if you don't have a steady  
 hand
 (and foot).

 TIG takes a lot longer to learn how to do it properly.

   Frank P.




 


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[TANKS] Re: Small 12v ESC - recommendations?

2009-06-24 Thread Thomas Lum

My best guess is that it's a feature of the esc.  It's made for RC  
cars that are going forwards at a great amount of speed and if you hit  
backwards (by accident or one purpose), it won't immediately do that  
because more than likely it would break something in the car if it  
slammed into reverse.  You need to double pump it to confirm you do  
indeed want reverse.  You might want to check the manual to see if it  
can be disabled.
Tom

On Jun 24, 2009, at 8:32 AM, Modena wrote:


 I am after a small 12v ESC for a my turret traverse, I bought one very
 similar to this off ebay;
 http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItemssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:ITitem=350217032530

 and I am having problems with it. It's working, but say I rotate it
 forwards, then I go backwards, then I try to go forwards again
 and it won't go, if I release the stick and then try forwards again,
 it works? what gives? It's like it needs confirmation that I actually
 want to change direction, but it only does this when going from
 direction B to A, going from A to B is fine, or from B to B, or from A
 to A (I use the terms forwards and backwards above with no
 specific direction intended, the point being the problem is only
 experienced when changing directions, in one direction, if that makes
 sense). Once it is going in any direction, stopping and starting again
 in the same direction is fine.

 Does anyone have any idea why it would do this? Do you think there's
 something wrong with it, or could this behaviour be by design? The
 seller states its meant for RC cars, in which I have no experience,
 but that fact may light a bulb for someone.

 Failing a fix, can anyone recommend a small in size and capacity,
 cheap and reliable (the holy trinity!) 12v ESC for the task?

 Ben
 


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[TANKS] Re: What's stopping you ?

2009-06-15 Thread Thomas Lum

 I have 1 thing stopping me (I wanted to be there so bad)  A 7 week old with a 
cold that sleeps about 5 minutes a day in the crib and about 15 hours a day if 
you hold her.  

The Abrams is running and Rocketman is stock, I just need someone to come watch 
my kids so I can go play.

Tom

BTW, what did Steve bring to the party?

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[TANKS] Re: is a regulator important ?

2009-06-05 Thread Thomas Lum

2005 Jeep Rubicon, most expensive car I've even owned and still has crank 
windows, manual transmission and no vanity mirrors either!



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[TANKS] Re: Artillery, smaller scales, and other musings.

2009-06-04 Thread Thomas Lum

 I always thought the static guys were necessary so the rest of us could feel 
better about ourselves!  (Points to a static model guy and mockingly says You 
think I'm nerdy, that guy is a real dork!)

Tom They are action figures not dolls! Lum

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[TANKS] Re: June Popular Science

2009-06-01 Thread Thomas Lum

Check out youtube, the guys that built that were into the Darpa  
program for a while and did some promotional videos. (Ripsaw)
Tom

On Jun 1, 2009, at 9:37 PM, David Cansler wrote:


 If anyone has seen the cover of the June issue then you know what I  
 want
 for Father's Day.
 I don't care where my wife has to drive to get me one.

 David a man can always dream Cansler

 


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[TANKS] Re: no rest for tankers

2009-05-26 Thread Thomas Lum

I'm sure Doug knows what to do, he's a mech warrior!
 
On Tuesday, May 26, 2009, at 06:54AM, Sgt.A.Johnson 
callum.king.underw...@googlemail.com wrote:

Copy paste into dreamweaver or something. if you have dreamweaver


On May 26, 7:34 am, Chris Malton chr...@cmalton.me.uk wrote:
 Doug,
         Your aspx pages don't work, they produce the source code, as opposed 
 to
 displaying content.

 Chris M

 On 26/05/2009 04:18, Doug Conn wrote:

  Hello –

  I’ve been busy recently. If you’re interested, you can read about it on
  my site (http://home.comcast.net/~dwconn404/RCTank/RCTankCombat.htm).

  Here are the teasers:

  First, there’s the new loading hatch on the Bad Kitty, T058. Read about
  it here http://home.comcast.net/~dwconn404/RCTank/Tiger/Turret.htm.

 http://home.comcast.net/~dwconn404/RCTank/Tiger/TigerImages/ReloadHat...

  Second, there’s the tank hoist I installed in my shop. Read about it
  here http://home.comcast.net/~dwconn404/WorkShop/Workshop.aspx.

  Hoist and tank

  Finally, there’s a new section on the T-72 I’m planning. Below, you can
  see the fiberglass turret shell I made. Read about it here
  http://home.comcast.net/~dwconn404/RCTank/T-72/T-72Overview.aspx.

 http://home.comcast.net/~dwconn404/RCTank/T-72/T-72%20Images/T-72Turr...

  Enjoy !

  - Doug




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[TANKS] Re: I won !

2009-04-27 Thread Thomas Lum
Fixed it for you...

As the winner, Conn was awarded a horrible over-sized trophy and will  
receive an all-inclusive trip to participate in the Pittelli Tech•Ed  
North America 2009  builders conference in Essex, MD,  May 11  
(4:30-4:35 pm) for his entry, The Expensive Toy, which combines out- 
dated technologies into a machine that recognizes driver error,  
understands the irrelevant information and helps the user shoot  
friendly targets at the most inopportune times.

Tom
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[TANKS] Re: MAG Industries at work

2009-04-20 Thread Thomas Lum

Will it be featuring lightweight hollow axles?
Tom

On Apr 20, 2009, at 6:57 AM, Steve Tyng wrote:


 John,

 Nice refurb so far.

 That's gonna be one tough little target!


 Steve


 


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[TANKS] Re: New to this hobby

2009-04-18 Thread Thomas Lum

I've gotten hooked on Google Sketchup lately, it's a great free  
drawing program that takes about 20 minutes to learn enough to use it  
with little or no trouble.  They have a host of youtube videos  
explaining any tool or procedure, I am really impressed with it.
Tom

On Apr 18, 2009, at 12:08 PM, Steve Tyng wrote:


 Paul wrote:

 I haven't got a CAD program, nor Solid Works.

 You don't need a full CAD package to take advantage of some computer
 assisted space planning.  I use a drawing pacjkage called Corel Draw
 to draw out my ideas before the blade hits the wood.  I find it very
 helpfull in testing to see how various items will fit together and
 such.  Any drawing package that can do basic shapes and dimension them
 would work.  I've uploaded a few development drawings of the Cromwell
 as an example.  Check out the CromwelDWG1-3 jpg's in the files
 section.

 Steve Tyng


 


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[TANKS] Re: Adverse Regulatory Environment

2009-04-17 Thread Thomas Lum

Right now I am running the M01s with 36v and a 1:1 ratio, it runs  
exactly the speed limit with my Abrams but I might gear down so I  
can pull stumps out of my yard.
Tom
On Apr 17, 2009, at 7:54 AM, Steve Tyng wrote:


 Neil wrote:

 Is there now a mph speed limit in force or has T040 been singled out
 and considered too fast ?

 The speed limit is being considered for safety reasons.

 But I can't help to ponder (especially by the way I was blindsided
 with that particular agenda item at the last club meeting) that there
 MIGHT be a little behind the scenes politicking from some to slow my
 little ole Cromwell down!  ;-)


 Steve Tyng


 


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[TANKS] Tank Overhaul

2009-04-04 Thread Thomas Lum

I've been watching some shows on the Military Channel called Tank  
Overhaul  if you get a chance to see it, it's pretty interesting.   
They restored an Elephant on the last one at Aberdeen, evidently  
only 1 of 2 left in the world.
Tom

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[TANKS] Re: Speed control question

2009-03-27 Thread Thomas Lum

I really like my Sidewinder from Robot Power.  It's small, durable,  
and you can actually call them and talk to a real person.  The Abrams  
weighs a lot and uses attachment chain tracks, so the ESC isn't being  
babied and it performed well.  Others may have better options.

Tom

On Mar 27, 2009, at 2:06 PM, Frank Pittelli wrote:


 NavyShooter wrote:
 It is not the PS2 connector, that's seperate.  It's a set of wires
 that are connected to the servo outputs at positions 1 and 2, and has
 a set of 5 IC's (4 identical, one raised up) that I'm presuming has
 something to do with the ESC interface?

 Does it look like the small circuit in the upper left corner of this
 picture?

   http://www.anvilus.com/mrc_image.jpg

 If so, then you've got an Anvilus 2-channel mixer/relay controller  
 which
  would provide on/off speed control when connected to 4 relays as  
 shown
 in the picture.

 In looking at a couple of people's builds, I think what I'm after  
 is a
 pair of Anvilus speed controllers.

 Actually, a single Anvilus speed control drives two motors, so you  
 only
 need one of them.  But, Joe doesn't sell them anymore, so you'll  
 have to
 go with a commercial controller.  Unfortunately, I don't have any
 experience with commercial speed controls, but hopefully those who  
 have
 will chime in and provide their answer to the following question:

 What's the best ESC for R/C Tank Combat purposes?

   Frank P.

 


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[TANKS] The future of making tank parts

2009-03-26 Thread Thomas Lum
I don't normally send out random stuff but I saw this video and was  
astounded at this technology.  If you have the time (7 minutes?), the  
examples they show at the end are incredible.
Tom

 
http://widgets.nbc.com/o/47f1317f105123ad/498ebd00a62edaa0/47fe70d4555df05a/9e46bd46/-cpid/ba4377d3bfd6c81

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[TANKS] Re: High Power Servo Hack

2009-03-25 Thread Thomas Lum
Would response time be a problem for this method?

On Mar 25, 2009, at 10:48 AM, Derek Engelhaupt wrote:

 Has anyone considered using something like a lead screw connected to  
 a motor for steering instead?  I just bought one of these to do my  
 traverse in the Sturmtiger.  I bought an extra one to play with.  I  
 would think that it would work well for steering and be very robust  
 as it's already welded to an aluminum plate.

 Derek
 T065

 On Tue, Mar 24, 2009 at 11:38 PM, Paul Hilton phil...@defnet.com  
 wrote:

 Now that, Steve is good intel!  I am VERY interested in the TLE 5206-2
 driver.  I am ready for the Paul Harvey, (the rest of the story)  
 whenever
 you would like to post it.  A simple (very simple) diagram showing  
 what to
 connect where and perhaps a socket part number would be useful.  I  
 have a
 whopping $8 burning a hole in my pocket!

 Paul H.
 - Original Message -
 From: Steve Tyng steve...@gmail.com
 To: R/C Tank Combat rctankcombat@googlegroups.com
 Sent: Tuesday, March 24, 2009 4:47 PM
 Subject: [TANKS] High Power Servo Hack


 
  I've renamed the subject of this thread back to High Power Servo
  Hack so lets not try to hijack it again (do not change the  
 subject on
  these emails).
 
 
  Now back to the topic at hand.
 
  There's been discussion on making custom h-bridges in lieu of the
  commercial boards available.  I've found the following integrated h-
  bridge modules currently listed on eBay.
 
 
  http://cgi.ebay.com/MPM3002-Motorola-H-BRIDGE-MOSFET-POWER-MODULE_W0QQitemZ200308339465QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?_trksid=p3286.m20.l1116
 
  http://cgi.ebay.com/1ea-ST-L6203-6203-Full-H-Bridge-Motor-DRIVER-IC_W0QQitemZ400020364797QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?_trksid=p3286.m20.l1116
 
  These are obsolescent out-of-production h-bridge modules (include  
 all
  four driver FETS) that could be utilized (with a small amount of
  additional components) to drive external motors (up to the current
  rating of the module) and can be driven by the hacked servo.
 
  An interesting and current (in production) h-bridge device is the
  Infineon TLE5206-2 driver.  This is a basic h-bridge driver that
  includes over amperage and temp sensing built-in and only requires  
 one
  external capacitor.  It can handle a continuous 5amps which should  
 be
  plenty for a steering servo setup.  DigiKey has these at under  
 $8US in
  single quantities.
 
 
  http://www.infineon.com/dgdl/tle5206-2_20010619.pdf?folderId=db3a304412b407950112b43820d56a4afileId=db3a304412b407950112b438215b6a4b
 
  If you review the datasheets for these devices you will find all the
  info needed to utilize them in the hacked servo project under
  discussion.
 
 
  Steve Tyng
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
  
 






 


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[TANKS] Re: Recon video

2009-03-21 Thread Thomas Lum
While I can't give you a ruling, it's looks like a great little  
machine.  How do you steer it and are all the wheels powered?
Tom

On Mar 21, 2009, at 4:00 PM, Guy Gregoire wrote:

 HI

I recorded short videos of my Recon running in the backyard.  The  
 video are of very
 poor quality, I apologize, but I only have my cellphone to record  
 video, so the resolution
 is small, and as I was holding the cellphone in my left hand and  
 driving the Recon with
 my right hand, it get easily out of frame.   With these 24v 300amp  
 motors the vehicule
 have more than enough power.  If only summer was coming faster.

I have one PanzerIII T050, to battle if ever some battler spawn  
 in my area, so was
 originally thinking to build a KingTiger, but turn the lower hull as  
 a 6 wheeled Recon, just
 for the fun of running it around.  Cant wait for some forest ride in  
 summer.  I use the
 same electronics than the PanzerIII, gotta use it at the price it  
 come, and it work
 to good to wait an ennemy tank.  I plan to buy a new car soon, it  
 will be choosed to
 accomodate a tank in the back to increase my battling range.

I was wondering, as I fine tune this Recon.  As its a 1/6 scale  
 hull of KingTiger, but
 on wheels, would it be possible that I battle with it if I install a  
 rotating turret with
 paintball gun on top of it?  I build this vehicule with in mind the  
 idea to replace the
 turret for anything else ( ex: robot arm ) as a multipurpose RC  
 mobile base.  Simply said,
 can we take liberty with our tank design? If not np, I can still use  
 it as Recon and supply
 vehicule.

 Greg.


 Messenger has tons of new features that make chatting more fun.  
 Click here to learn more.
 
 Video-0002.3gpVideo-0003.3gp


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[TANKS] Support vehicle speed limit?

2009-03-18 Thread Thomas Lum

After running Rocketman last night, it ended tragically (major repairs  
required), I have to ask...do we have a support vehicle speed limit,  
cause that thing is wicked fast!
Tom

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[TANKS] Re: Support vehicle speed limit?

2009-03-18 Thread Thomas Lum

Thanks, I have some from when I was running EVs on the Abrams.
Tom

On Mar 18, 2009, at 5:40 PM, Doug Conn wrote:


 The chain tensioner was recent addition. Now an even more recent  
 subtraction
 :)

 Let me know if you need more #25 chain or connecting links. I have  
 quite a
 bit.

   - Doug


 -Original Message-
 From: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com [mailto:rctankcombat@googlegroups.com 
 ]
 On Behalf Of Thomas Lum
 Sent: Wednesday, March 18, 2009 5:19 PM
 To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com
 Subject: [TANKS] Re: Support vehicle speed limit?


 Nothing too bad, I need to rework the chain tensioner after I drove
 it like I stole it around the yard.  It jumps really good!

 I also need to address the bump steer/front alignment issues, but
 nothing new.

 The chain popped off and I flipped it a few times...

 (Runs great actually)

 Thanks
 Tom

 On Mar 18, 2009, at 5:01 PM, Doug Conn wrote:


 Oh no !

 What happened ?

  - Doug

 -Original Message-
 From: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com [mailto:rctankcombat@googlegroups.com
 ]
 On Behalf Of Thomas Lum
 Sent: Wednesday, March 18, 2009 4:27 PM
 To: Tanks Tanks
 Subject: [TANKS] Support vehicle speed limit?


 After running Rocketman last night, it ended tragically (major  
 repairs
 required), I have to ask...do we have a support vehicle speed limit,
 cause that thing is wicked fast!
 Tom








 


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[TANKS] Re: Transmission

2009-03-12 Thread Thomas Lum
As long as your tank weighs 3 pounds...

On Mar 12, 2009, at 11:54 AM, Paul Hilton wrote:

 I wonder if one of these:

 http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?I=LXTZH8P=7

 would work for a single, non-reversing motor.  I still have that  
 Kollmorgen!

 Paul H.

 


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[TANKS] Re: M1-A2 Abrams Updated pics.

2009-03-04 Thread Thomas Lum

NIce work, it looks like a lot of time went into it.  Did you have  
enough room inside for all the mechanicals?
Tom

On Mar 4, 2009, at 7:53 PM, Matt wrote:


 Ahhh, now I get it Thanks, I'll try that next time.

 On Mar 4, 4:50 pm, Modena b...@holnet.net wrote:
 files can be attached via email, if you access this group via browser
 then you cannot attach pics to a message

 tank looks great BTW

 On Mar 5, 11:17 am, Matt pilotm...@sbcglobal.net wrote:



 I posted the two latest pictures of my Abrams project in the files
 section because I can't seem to figure out how to attach them to a
 message... Would anyone care to enlighten me?
   -Matt- Hide quoted text -

 - Show quoted text -
 


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[TANKS] Re: M1-A2 Abrams Updated pics.

2009-03-04 Thread Thomas Lum

That should be plenty of room, nice.  How did you do the mantlet?
Tom

On Mar 4, 2009, at 8:37 PM, Matt wrote:


 There is tons of room inside, but I haven't fitted anything into the
 turret yet. the space is about a foot wide and 1.5 feet deep. It is
 4-6 inches tall.

 -Matt

 On Mar 4, 5:29 pm, Thomas Lum t...@mac.com wrote:
 NIce work, it looks like a lot of time went into it.  Did you have
 enough room inside for all the mechanicals?
 Tom

 On Mar 4, 2009, at 7:53 PM, Matt wrote:





 Ahhh, now I get it Thanks, I'll try that next time.

 On Mar 4, 4:50 pm, Modena b...@holnet.net wrote:
 files can be attached via email, if you access this group via  
 browser
 then you cannot attach pics to a message

 tank looks great BTW

 On Mar 5, 11:17 am, Matt pilotm...@sbcglobal.net wrote:

 I posted the two latest pictures of my Abrams project in the files
 section because I can't seem to figure out how to attach them to a
 message... Would anyone care to enlighten me?
   -Matt- Hide quoted text -

 - Show quoted text -- Hide quoted text -

 - Show quoted text -
 


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[TANKS] Re: Daimler updates

2009-02-27 Thread Thomas Lum
Can you take some close-ups of your steering?  Seems to work very well.
Tom
On Feb 27, 2009, at 6:42 AM, Chrysanthos Kanellopoulos wrote:

 Check this out, comrades.  The battery was so low , that at the end  
 of the third video I could not reverse.
 It's hard to video tape and RC steer at the same time... Only a  
 quick run test in teh back yard with dead batteries, so I don't  
 break the flowers AND teh vehicle.
 Chrys
 http://s148.photobucket.com/albums/s30/ChrysKane/DAIMLER%201%206TH/


 


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[TANKS] Re: 3 stage transmission

2009-02-23 Thread Thomas Lum

I am always impressed w/ George's work, there's something about a  
dented metal tank that makes it twice as good.  What did you use on  
the inner hull where the torsion rods go through, did you make those  
or are they from another part of something?

Tom
On Feb 23, 2009, at 12:45 AM, George Mastoras wrote:

 Some progress at last.
 Still a bit to do, some welding, drilling, tapping about a days  
 worth before
 can attach a battery to test.
 Should say this was a PITA and would not do it again, while putting  
 this
 thing together was always thinking what if this chain broke etc so  
 had to
 build in servicing and repair considerations.

 The gear ratio is 12:1 and the motors are about 320 watts at 12  
 volts but
 will run it at 24volts also.
 When moving this vehicle uses 56 ball bearings and 12 bushes for the  
 arms so
 it should be efficient.

 Will be able to adjust tension on all the chains and be able to  
 disassemble
 the transmission hopefully fairly easy.

 When welding is finished will pull apart and paint, set the bearings  
 and
 take some photos when its in pieces.

 Even though its been a bit of a pain am looking forward to seeing  
 this move,
 hopefully should be driving within 2 weeks or earlier, apart from
 transmission only have 4 road wheels left to do.

 George Mastoras


 
 3stage_1.jpg3stage_2.jpg3stage_3.jpg3stage_4.jpg3stage_5.jpg


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[TANKS] Re: drum servos

2009-02-23 Thread Thomas Lum

Not to beat a dead horse but Frank is dead on with this building  
philosophy.  We all know how much time goes into these beasts and  
battles are few and far between.  If something breaks that can't be  
repaired instantly, you lose time doing what you spent scores of hours  
building and preparing for, especially if it's your first battle.   
Some of the veterans cherish punishing their tanks (they get a crazy  
look in their eye) because they know they can, they are that well  
built.  The question is, can you do the same?

Always figure the worst case scenario.  Turn the turret sideways so  
that the barrel is perpendicular to your direction of travel. Bring  
your tank up to full speed and run your barrel (just the tip) into an  
immobile object at full speed.  If you think your servo will survive  
that collision, build on.  If not, plan on a different mechanism with  
slip built into the system either with a belt or roller.

Tom (my turret rotate and paintball feed didn't work last year so I  
speak from experience) Lum

On Feb 23, 2009, at 5:52 PM, Frank Pittelli wrote:


 Joker wrote:
 Not to hijack or anything, but wouldn't adding those two switchs just
 give you 'full on' or 'full off' in either direction?

 Yep.  But that's all that is needed when using a low RPM geared motor
 for a rotate system.  Cheap, powerful, simple, effective and reliable
 ... hard to beat that combination.  Of course, if you want to spend  
 more
 money for a more complex and less reliable proportional speed control,
 you can add that if you want.  Simply replace the servo/switches by  
 the
 speed control (keep the servo/switches in your field box, because
 eventually you'll be putting them back in the vehicle when the speed
 controller starts acting up.)

 When it comes to servo motors, a hacked servo simply won't have enough
 torque or reliability for rotating a fully equipped turret.  Hacked
 servos are great for kiddie toys and table-top robotics, but our tanks
 are at least an order of magnitude larger than such things.  (The one
 thing you learn in the science and engineering world is to respect
 orders of magnitude.) We're talking about quite a few pounds of weight
 in the turret alone being tossed around by various dynamic forces on  
 the
 battlefield (including the inertia of 100+ pounds when you run into
 something) and the rotate motor has to handle such loads many, many
 times in a single battle, let alone over many years of battling.

 Just keep one thing in mind:  No veteran battler has ever been sorry
 because they over-engineered any of their tank systems.

   Frank P.

 


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[TANKS] Re: Hello and looking to contact UK builders.

2009-02-19 Thread Thomas Lum

The biggest difference would have to be the length of the  
competition.  Things that will work for 3 minutes might not be able to  
withstand 60-90 minutes of battle.
Tom

On Feb 19, 2009, at 12:55 PM, Gadget wrote:


 Hey,

 Ok, looks like both posts worked, I'm ever so slightly confused.

 Either way I'm keeping it simple to begin, wood chassis and wiper
 motors for drive. Slow and heavy but a good start. I'll get clever
 once I've got a few games under my belt.

 Building wise I used to do Robot Wars so theoretically this should be
 a much simpler hobby on the building side. But that does remain to be
 seen.

 All the best
 Jon


 On Feb 19, 9:12 am, Phil sasquevane...@aol.com wrote:
 Hi Jon

 Good to hear from you. There are a few of us in the UK- I'm in Surrey
 and own T055, which works, and T057, which doesn't. I expect the
 others will sign in shortly.

 Are you any good at building things (I'm not)? Aer you going to go  
 for
 wood or metal? What motors do you plan to use?

 Phil incurably nosy Palmer

 On Feb 17, 11:12 pm, Jonathan Townshend  
 jonathan.townsh...@gmail.com
 wrote:



 Hello all,

 Came across the RC tank combat site the other day and well up for  
 getting
 involved.
 I've got the scale plans for a Panzer 4 all ready to roll but  
 before I get
 going I'd like to get in contact with anyone from the UK and  
 hopefully make
 it to a battle/meetup or two first if there are any planned. Based  
 in the
 Midlands and pretty used to driving all over the country for  
 various events.
 Hope to hear from you all soon.

 All the best
 Jon- Hide quoted text -

 - Show quoted text -
 


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[TANKS] Re: Hello and looking to contact UK builders.

2009-02-19 Thread Thomas Lum

I have seen quite a few run 24 volts in the 18-20 Ah range (dual 12v  
18Ah batteries)
On Feb 19, 2009, at 1:25 PM, Gadget wrote:


 This is a concern, what kinda battery capacity do most people carry?

 Jon



 On Feb 19, 6:05 pm, Thomas Lum t...@mac.com wrote:
 The biggest difference would have to be the length of the
 competition.  Things that will work for 3 minutes might not be able  
 to
 withstand 60-90 minutes of battle.
 Tom

 On Feb 19, 2009, at 12:55 PM, Gadget wrote:





 Hey,

 Ok, looks like both posts worked, I'm ever so slightly confused.

 Either way I'm keeping it simple to begin, wood chassis and wiper
 motors for drive. Slow and heavy but a good start. I'll get clever
 once I've got a few games under my belt.

 Building wise I used to do Robot Wars so theoretically this should  
 be
 a much simpler hobby on the building side. But that does remain to  
 be
 seen.

 All the best
 Jon

 On Feb 19, 9:12 am, Phil sasquevane...@aol.com wrote:
 Hi Jon

 Good to hear from you. There are a few of us in the UK- I'm in  
 Surrey
 and own T055, which works, and T057, which doesn't. I expect the
 others will sign in shortly.

 Are you any good at building things (I'm not)? Aer you going to go
 for
 wood or metal? What motors do you plan to use?

 Phil incurably nosy Palmer

 On Feb 17, 11:12 pm, Jonathan Townshend
 jonathan.townsh...@gmail.com
 wrote:

 Hello all,

 Came across the RC tank combat site the other day and well up for
 getting
 involved.
 I've got the scale plans for a Panzer 4 all ready to roll but
 before I get
 going I'd like to get in contact with anyone from the UK and
 hopefully make
 it to a battle/meetup or two first if there are any planned. Based
 in the
 Midlands and pretty used to driving all over the country for
 various events.
 Hope to hear from you all soon.

 All the best
 Jon- Hide quoted text -

 - Show quoted text -- Hide quoted text -

 - Show quoted text -
 


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[TANKS] Re: Leaf Springs

2009-02-16 Thread Thomas Lum

How much do you expect the wiper blade tank to weigh because every  
set I have ever installed were very flimsy and would probably double  
over with anymore than 4 lbs. of pressure exerted in the middle.   
Maybe you have different wipers in mind however.
Tom

On Feb 16, 2009, at 1:21 PM, Pureteenlard wrote:


 I tested hacksaw blades. They spring back nicely under torsion but
 merely bend when used as leaf springs.

 I like the wipers because they come ready bowed, can be picked up for
 free from my local Kwik Fit centrewhen they change someone's wipers
 during a service and they are designed as springs rather than
 happening to e springy.

 Anyway, it's all speculation until I finish the valentine . . .

 On Feb 16, 1:44 pm, Steve Tyng steve...@gmail.com wrote:
 I just put a set of those on the wife's car.  They seemed pretty
 floppy to me.  Have you thought of a stack of hack saw blades?

 Steve

 On Feb 14, 2:43 pm, Pureteenlard pureteenl...@hotmail.com wrote:



 Anyone else think that modern 'flat' wipers could be made into RC  
 tank
 leaf springs?

 http://www.carstyleplus.co.uk/Windscreen_wipers/windscreen_wipers.html

 Basically all they are is a 6-10mm wide, rubber coated leaf  
 spring.- Hide quoted text -

 - Show quoted text -
 


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[TANKS] Re: your recon vehicle

2009-02-14 Thread Thomas Lum

Clodbuster axles can be built bullet-proof but expect to pay $250 per  
axle to get them that way.  They would work for a 1/6th scale vehicle  
since they have about 12-13 track width and can turn 5 tires no  
problem.

On Feb 14, 2009, at 11:30 AM, HV wrote:


 Crawlers are very cool. But the typical sizes, 1/8 or 1/10 scale, seem
 a bit small to me, and the beautifully machined axles and stuff are
 very expensive. I could be misinformed. I have thought about how to
 build a crawler  at a larger scale but still cheap. One thought is to
 have the motors attached directly to the wheels to eliminate the
 complex drive trains. And also to have skid steering rather than
 ackerman. Not sure skid steering would work for rock crawling, but I
 don't want to do rock crawling. (Maybe crawling over tanks?) I just
 think the design would be good for general all terrain performance. I
 have not found a good motor-wheel combination for that yet.

 On Feb 14, 5:43 am, Tod Jones todjo...@comcast.net wrote:
 


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[TANKS] Re: can we use 4 motors?

2009-02-11 Thread Thomas Lum
 This is all my opinion of course but...

 1-Is it working like, if I place 2 motors on each side the vehicule  
 will have twice the power?

Yes


 2-If yes, can I just combine + and - cables of same side motors and  
 have the drive chain pass by
 the two motors gears ( each motor need a gear with absolutely the  
 same number of teeth of course ) to
 install the second one?

You can, some guys in the RC crawler world swear by series wiring,  
others say it doesn't matter.  I have also heard to making the front  
spin slightly faster (1 tooth difference) to help with steering and  
climbing.


 3-If yes, is the Amp. of combined two motors will double the load  
 and put a bigger hazard to my ESC?

I'm not sure but it might not double the load since each motor will be  
working less than before.  It will obviously be more than before but  
not twice as many.


 4-do I miss something?

You could add more voltage and increase your gearing if your system  
could handle it.


 Thank you, Greg.



 Windows Live Messenger. Multitasking at its finest.
 


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[TANKS] Re: Today I found a nice cheap slip ring

2009-02-10 Thread Thomas Lum
Nice find.  What are people using them for on the tanks?  Power, rc  
signals, or both?

On Feb 10, 2009, at 8:10 AM, Andy Schwartz wrote:



 While in K-Mart/Sears I found a rotating plug that I suspected had a  
 slip ring built in.  The cost was $10 for 2.  I brought it home and  
 opened it up and, Yep its a slip ring!!

 slip ring 2.jpgslip ring 3.jpg

 Andy

 


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[TANKS] Re: Best way to control this linear actuator?

2009-02-10 Thread Thomas Lum

I want to build an M270 so I will need something to lift the entire  
missile box, hence a 100 lb actuator.  I'm testing how to shoot  
multiple paintballs with a single air source simultaneously now and  
once I have it, I'll build my missile box w/ elevate.  I have to  
finish my Abrams first though...
On Feb 10, 2009, at 11:16 AM, Frank Pittelli wrote:


 Thomas Lum wrote:
 Best way to control this linear actuator?
 It has built in limit switches and a built in potentiometer.

 http://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?UID=2009021006243189item=5-1577-4catname=

 Could I use a speed controller and self centering joystick or is  
 there a
 better method that utilizes the potentiometer?
 I want to use it for a gun elevate.

 Do you really need an actuator capable of lifting 100+ pounds for your
 elevate mechanism?  Seems like overkill to me.

 But, to answer your questions:

 1) You don't need a speed controller, just some on-off switches, to
 create a latched elevate mechanism.  Push joystick to go in either
 direction, let go to have it stay in that position.  (This is how most
 motor-based elevate mechanisms work).

 2) You could utilize the pot using a microcontroller to turn the
 actuator into a powerful proportional elevate mechanism.  In that
 case, when you move the joystick the actuator will move to the same
 relative position.  However, given the size of the mechanism there  
 will
 probably be a perceptible delay to get from one spot to another, which
 will make it difficult to use effectively.

 Personally, I prefer to go with a simpler geared motor solution  
 using
 small, but powerful 6 RPM geared motors with a lifting arm and two  
 limit
 switches.  Smaller, cheaper ($10) and extremely robust.  Both the
 Navaronne and Tiger have been using such an approach for years  
 without a
 failure.

 BTW: Within the next month, I hope to have some prototypes built for a
 new circuit board that is specifically designed to control such
 mechanisms (elevate, rotate, fire control).  More details to follow.

   Frank P.

 


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[TANKS] Re: A combat robot wiki

2009-02-09 Thread Thomas Lum

What speed controller are you using?

Not to thorw $40 at the situation but they do make tank mixers (Frank  
probably has one for $3.75)
http://www.robotmarketplace.com/products/RL-IMX1.html

On Feb 9, 2009, at 6:52 AM, Phil wrote:


 Yes, I did the elevon mixing, and found that the tank went rather
 slowly. Joe Somner explained that you only get 75% of power if you use
 the elevon setup (don't know why. I spent ages fiddling with the
 percentages but it didn't want to play. Perghaps ths site will explain
 it).

 Phil



 On Feb 9, 2:20 am, garth knight garth...@yahoo.com wrote:
 may also appear as  elevon  mixing

 --- On Sun, 2/8/09, Thomas Lum t...@mac.com wrote:



 From: Thomas Lum t...@mac.com
 Subject: [TANKS] Re: A combat robot wiki
 To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com
 Date: Sunday, February 8, 2009, 1:52 PM
 I think you want v-tail mixing.

 On Feb 8, 2009, at 1:38 PM, Phil wrote:

 Very good site, Thomas. I need to study it at leisure
 but it might
 help me understand my Futuba controller. The
 instruction manual works
 on the basis you've got a plane/heli,right?
 This is how to control
 it.

 I have managed to persuade my tank to go faster by
 putting left track
 on the left stick and right track on the right stick,
 but this is not
 terribly intuitive (elivate is right
 stick-left, for example, and
 it's difficult to drive forwards without
 traversing (left stick left-
 right).

 Will study further and report any good tips!

 Phil

 On Feb 7, 2:36 am, Thomas Lum t...@mac.com
 wrote:
 Came across this site and I think a lot of it is
 pertinent to us.

 http://combots.net/wiki/index.php/Special:Allpages- Hide quoted  
 text -

 - Show quoted text -
 


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[TANKS] Re: My King Tiger Project

2009-02-09 Thread Thomas Lum

Over 6' long?  That's a monster!

On Feb 9, 2009, at 12:23 AM, Tango71 wrote:


 Wanted to say Hey. Been on this site before and decided to join again.
 I'm mostly on the scaled tanks and RCMBT sites.

 Here is my creation.

 www.kingtigerproject.webs.com

 Enjoy.

 


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[TANKS] Re: My King Tiger Project

2009-02-09 Thread Thomas Lum

Will it shoot tennis balls?
On Feb 9, 2009, at 6:03 PM, Tango71 wrote:


 Thanks guys. May be a while before its prowling. I am working on the
 18 road wheels right now and its going but really slow. Each one is
 7.5 diameter made from 2 pieces of 19mm quality plywood lathed by
 hand on a hobby lathe. There will be a steel rim glued/bolted to each
 wheel to complete it, This will give it a diameter of 7.8 which is to
 scale. I will post up some pictures in a couple of days.

 On Feb 9, 1:30 pm, Modena b...@holnet.net wrote:
 awesome! I can't wait to see some footage of it on the prowl

 On Feb 10, 5:08 am, Thomas Lum t...@mac.com wrote:

 Over 6' long?  That's a monster!

 On Feb 9, 2009, at 12:23 AM, Tango71 wrote:

 Wanted to say Hey. Been on this site before and decided to join  
 again.
 I'm mostly on the scaled tanks and RCMBT sites.

 Here is my creation.

 www.kingtigerproject.webs.com

 Enjoy.- Hide quoted text -

 - Show quoted text -


 


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[TANKS] Re: A combat robot wiki

2009-02-08 Thread Thomas Lum

I think you want v-tail mixing.

On Feb 8, 2009, at 1:38 PM, Phil wrote:


 Very good site, Thomas. I need to study it at leisure but it might
 help me understand my Futuba controller. The instruction manual works
 on the basis you've got a plane/heli,right? This is how to control
 it.

 I have managed to persuade my tank to go faster by putting left track
 on the left stick and right track on the right stick, but this is not
 terribly intuitive (elivate is right stick-left, for example, and
 it's difficult to drive forwards without traversing (left stick left-
 right).

 Will study further and report any good tips!

 Phil

 On Feb 7, 2:36 am, Thomas Lum t...@mac.com wrote:
 Came across this site and I think a lot of it is pertinent to us.

 http://combots.net/wiki/index.php/Special:Allpages
 


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[TANKS] A combat robot wiki

2009-02-06 Thread Thomas Lum

Came across this site and I think a lot of it is pertinent to us.

http://combots.net/wiki/index.php/Special:Allpages



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[TANKS] Re: Turret traversing - circular electrical contacts

2009-02-02 Thread Thomas Lum
What you are describing is a slip ring (I think).  I think if you  
search for it in the forum, there was some discussion of it before.   
They can be very expensive but a low cost alternative was suggested.   
I think there was a mention of a telephone handset cord swivel (back  
when a phone had a cord!)
Tom

On Feb 2, 2009, at 6:59 AM, Mike Mangus wrote:

 The closest thing I've seen to what you are describing is an older  
 automotive horn button part.  Under the stearing wheels, there is a  
 disc with a couple circular tracks of copper that contacts ride on  
 to allow the steering wheel to spin freely without twisting horn  
 wires.  It would work I think.

 Mike M

 From: Modena b...@holnet.net
 To: R/C Tank Combat rctankcombat@googlegroups.com
 Sent: Monday, February 2, 2009 5:04:50 PM
 Subject: [TANKS] Turret traversing - circular electrical contacts


 Has anyone built/used/found some kind of circular electrical contact
 solution for turrets? The idea being that to get electrical
 connectivity from the hull to the turret, and still be able to turn
 360 degrees all day long, I need to get electrical contacts through
 some kind of circular connection.

 This is rather than using wires which will get twisted by turret
 rotation. I realise that most of the time turrets are never going to
 get rotated enough to worry to much about twisted wires, but it would
 be nice not to have to worry about it at all and just be able to turn
 around and around without hinderance.

 I don't think I explained that very well, but hopefully it makes
 sense :)



 


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[TANKS] Re: T-12 Conversion

2009-02-01 Thread Thomas Lum

Did the Brummbar have ay side to side barrel movement or was it only 1  
axis (elevation)?

On Feb 1, 2009, at 4:18 AM, Marc wrote:




 That is one gutted tank!
 Looking forward to the result.

 


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[TANKS] I'll forget tomorrow...charging question

2009-01-30 Thread Thomas Lum

I was charging my batteries with a smart charger and it gives me two  
options, either charge my 2 batteries as stand alone batteries or I  
can charge them with a jumper in between one battery's positive to the  
other's negative (series).  What advantage if any does one set-up have  
or the other.
Thanks
Tom

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[TANKS] Re: Tank Expo 2009

2009-01-29 Thread Thomas Lum

If we have a double boiler for Joe's plastic, can we make chocolate  
covered strawberries afterwards?!

On Jan 29, 2009, at 1:48 PM, Frank Pittelli wrote:


 Ron wrote:
 For those of us attending in person. Should we pack a lunch or will  
 we
 chip in for pizza or something?

 Feel free to pack a lunch, but we usually chip in and get  
 something.  In
 either case, few go hungry at the Expo :-)

   Frank P.


 


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[TANKS] Re: Tank Expo 2009

2009-01-29 Thread Thomas Lum

Or we could make smores over my RS80D speed controller!
On Jan 29, 2009, at 2:41 PM, Thomas Lum wrote:


 If we have a double boiler for Joe's plastic, can we make chocolate
 covered strawberries afterwards?!

 On Jan 29, 2009, at 1:48 PM, Frank Pittelli wrote:


 Ron wrote:
 For those of us attending in person. Should we pack a lunch or will
 we
 chip in for pizza or something?

 Feel free to pack a lunch, but we usually chip in and get
 something.  In
 either case, few go hungry at the Expo :-)

  Frank P.





 


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[TANKS] Re: Bulldog mania

2009-01-26 Thread Thomas Lum

That was my biggest concern as well, build a tank and then it's killed  
with 2 shots.


On Jan 26, 2009, at 10:28 AM, Derek Engelhaupt wrote:


 I like the Hellcat too, but the armor is thin.  Max is 25mm on the
 turret, 13mm on the hull.

 Derek

 On Mon, Jan 26, 2009 at 9:29 AM, Chrysanthos Kanellopoulos
 xchr...@otenet.gr wrote:
 The Hellcat would also be a simple US beast to replicate in 1:6th.  
 Attached.
 Too bad I have 3 tanks and markers to maintain.

 Too many tanks and little time.
 C





 


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[TANKS] Re: Bulldog mania

2009-01-26 Thread Thomas Lum
It had to be fast to outrun anyone that shot at it since it's armor  
was so thin.
5mm - 25mm armor...was it just aluminum foil doubled over?  I think  
George Mastoras has rc tanks with thicker skin!
On Jan 26, 2009, at 6:40 PM, Mike Måne wrote:

 Wasn't the Hellcat the fastest tracked vehicle in the War? If so,  
 you may need some powerful motors if you want to be that realistic.
 -

 On Mon, Jan 26, 2009 at 12:56 PM, Pureteenlard pureteenl...@hotmail.com 
  wrote:

 No roof on the turret either . . .




 


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[TANKS] Re: control arms/horns

2009-01-25 Thread Thomas Lum
What size shaft/wire does it mount to?

On Jan 25, 2009, at 3:39 PM, odysseyslipw...@aol.com wrote:

 ah, the search is over. someone at one of the sci-fi sites i  
 frequent found the exact part

 Click here: Dubro Long Steering Arm

 i'll have to see how i missed it

 Chris,
 Odyssey Slipways

 A Good Credit Score is 700 or Above. See yours in just 2 easy steps!

 


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[TANKS] Re: about time I got off my butt and started working on my tanks again

2009-01-25 Thread Thomas Lum
What kind of mounts are you going to use for the motors?  They look  
pretty big and pre-geared.  Any specs?
Tom

On Jan 25, 2009, at 4:39 AM, Pete Curran wrote:


 Yes it has been a couple of years since I last did some work on my  
 tanks, so I pulled out the S tank, welder and some steel and got  
 back to work.
 I have changed my plans (2 years will do that) and will build a  
 steel frame inside the tank to mount the suspension and motors too.

 http://s720.photobucket.com/albums/ww206/McRunBeck/tanks/

 Pete (under construction) Curran

 


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[TANKS] Re: Wheels, wheels and more wheels!

2009-01-20 Thread Thomas Lum

I'm always looking for a new method or jig...care to elaborate or will  
we need to sign up for that workshop at the expo?
Tom

On Jan 20, 2009, at 2:22 PM, Steve Tyng wrote:


 Plywood wheels can be very easily made on a power mitersaw.

 Steve Tyng


 On Jan 18, 7:43 pm, Xirus xiru...@gmail.com wrote:
 Everybody hates making them. Especially if you have a lot of them to
 make.

 OK. So, I will soon be needing to make wheels. Now at 1/4 scale  
 buying
 wheels is out of the question. I was thinking of making one wooden
 wheel plug and making several molds out of it. I can then use the
 molds to make more of the exact wheel. This is time consuming though.
 And I'm not quite sure what materials to use.

 I don't have a lathe, And I don't think I can justify to the wife why
 I need one. The tank in question is a 1/4 scale Tiger II and the
 wheels need to be 7-3/4 to 8 in diameter and I would like them to
 look realistic as well. I can compromise on the look a bit I guess.

 Does anyone have any suggestions? I was considering cutting out 36
 discs and using 8 poly pipe as the tire just like Dave Manson's  
 tanks
 from Scaledtanks.com
 


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[TANKS] Re: Miter Gears.

2009-01-16 Thread Thomas Lum

Says more than 10 available...

On Jan 16, 2009, at 10:03 PM, Aahz. wrote:


 jvragu47 wrote:
 Here you go 10 dollars for the pair with $4.75 shipping.
 3/4 bore you provide setscrews.

 If you need keyway slot cut into them, we can do that as well.

 I'm at work so I can't check right now but do they have two  
 sets? I need a total of four.

 Aahz.

 


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[TANKS] Re: T064 Designated

2009-01-14 Thread Thomas Lum

Finally some reinforcements!  NIce work.

On Jan 14, 2009, at 10:15 PM, Frank Pittelli wrote:


 I am pleased to announce that Fred Thomson's M41 Walker Bulldog has  
 been
 officially designated as T064, with initial photos and construction
 details available at:

   http://www.rctankcombat.com/tanks/T064/

 Nice to see some more U.S. tanks being built.  Now he just needs to  
 get
 it done before the Spring battling season is upon us.

   Frank P.

 


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[TANKS] Re: Jacques Littlefield has passed away

2009-01-12 Thread Thomas Lum
Isn't his place where Mythbusters used the two tanks to pull apart the  
two phone books laced together?  I wondered who had that awesome of a  
garage
Tom

On Jan 12, 2009, at 1:24 PM, Paul Hilton wrote:

 For those that haven't heard of Jacques Littlefield, here is a linky:

 http://www.mishalov.com/littlefield-6jan07/

 Paul H.
 - Original Message -
 From: Paul Hilton
 To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com
 Sent: Monday, January 12, 2009 11:44 AM
 Subject: [TANKS] Re: Jacques Littlefield has passed away

 Sad day indeed.  I enjoyed the episode of Tank Overhaul depicting  
 the restoration of his Panther.  I hope the collection remains  
 intact, though I don't know how it would.

 Paul H.
 - Original Message -
 From: Gregory Pwneror
 To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com
 Sent: Sunday, January 11, 2009 8:27 PM
 Subject: [TANKS] Jacques Littlefield has passed away

 For those of you who don't know, Jacques Littlefield of the  
 Littlefield military vehicle collection passed away on the 7th of  
 January.
 Littlefield had an extensive collection of military vehicles  
 including a Sherman, a SCUD launcher and several Soviet era and WWII  
 German pieces of armour.
 I'm sure he will be greatly missed in many tank related communities.
 I just thought I would let those who didn't know about it know.

 -Gregory



 


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