Re: [TANKS] Re: AMX13

[srwh74rn]

Sorry mike, my mistake. My starter motors are exactly the same (looking at 
them) as the ones Steve found. As for set up, i would too make use of the 
sprocket to run chain to another larger sprocket to reduce rpms at the drives 
and improve torque.  

Stewart

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Re: [TANKS] Re: AMX13

['Mike Mangus' via R/C Tank Combat]

the S-tanks motors didn't burn up.  They did severely overheat though due to 
too high gear ratio, running at partial throttle settings, and basically using 
the wrong motor for the gear ratio.  

If building the S-tank again, I would probably ise the sprocketed geared motors 
Steve found and add a sprocket to the drive hub to reduce rpm even more to the 
tracks.  That would let the motor run at full throttle and multiply the torque 
to the tracks.
Mike

  From: Doug Conn 
 To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com 
 Sent: Friday, February 27, 2015 10:37 PM
 Subject: RE: [TANKS] Re: AMX13
   
>> drill a series of 1/4 inch holes along the length of the side

Don't do it ! I'm not aware of anybody in this hobby overheating a motor. Has 
anybody done it ?

Motors should stay sealed. There's a lot of dust, dirty, grime, and paint at an 
R/C Tank battle. The last thing you need is any of it getting in the motor. 
Drilling vent holes is too much risk and too much effort for no gain. If you 
feel strongly, use heat sinks and fans, but leave the housing in tact.

    - Doug

-Original Message-
From: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com [mailto:rctankcombat@googlegroups.com] On 
Behalf Of srwh7...@gmail.com
Sent: Friday, February 27, 2015 2:32 PM
To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: [TANKS] Re: AMX13

On the idea of venting the motors, think its possible. Cracked one open this 
afternoon to take a look. There is about a half inch of space between the 
magnets. That should give enough room to drill a series of 1/4 inch holes along 
the length of the side. I think i can maybe even get a few holes around the end 
too.  Did not drill any today as winter has eaten my shed.  The motor even 
worked after i managed to get it together again, impressed with myself ;).

Stewart

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RE: [TANKS] Re: AMX13

[srwh74rn]

Doug, these are basicly the same motors that Mike used and burnt out. Steve 
suggested venting them.  These motors are air tight, not a hole in sight. 

Stewart

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RE: [TANKS] Re: AMX13

[Doug Conn]

>> drill a series of 1/4 inch holes along the length of the side

Don't do it ! I'm not aware of anybody in this hobby overheating a motor. Has 
anybody done it ?

Motors should stay sealed. There's a lot of dust, dirty, grime, and paint at an 
R/C Tank battle. The last thing you need is any of it getting in the motor. 
Drilling vent holes is too much risk and too much effort for no gain. If you 
feel strongly, use heat sinks and fans, but leave the housing in tact.

- Doug

-Original Message-
From: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com [mailto:rctankcombat@googlegroups.com] On 
Behalf Of srwh7...@gmail.com
Sent: Friday, February 27, 2015 2:32 PM
To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: [TANKS] Re: AMX13

On the idea of venting the motors, think its possible. Cracked one open this 
afternoon to take a look. There is about a half inch of space between the 
magnets. That should give enough room to drill a series of 1/4 inch holes along 
the length of the side. I think i can maybe even get a few holes around the end 
too.  Did not drill any today as winter has eaten my shed.  The motor even 
worked after i managed to get it together again, impressed with myself ;).

Stewart

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Re: [TANKS] Re: AMX13

[srwh74rn]

On the idea of venting the motors, think its possible. Cracked one open this 
afternoon to take a look. There is about a half inch of space between the 
magnets. That should give enough room to drill a series of 1/4 inch holes along 
the length of the side. I think i can maybe even get a few holes around the end 
too.  Did not drill any today as winter has eaten my shed.  The motor even 
worked after i managed to get it together again, impressed with myself ;).

Stewart

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Re: [TANKS] Re: AMX13

[OdysseySlipways via R/C Tank Combat]

pics?
 
 
In a message dated 2/26/2015 9:13:42 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
tan...@gmail.com writes:

For smooth shafts with no keyways I use Fenner Trantorque keyless  
bushings... They are quite expensive unless you find them on Ebay like I  did.  
The 
come in metric and standard sizes.  They clamp down on the  smooth shaft 
while applying torque outward on the inner bore of the  sprocket.  They clamp 
on the shaft and push out on the sprocket at the  same time.  Using them on 
my drive shafts to attach my sprockets that  drive my tracks.  Don't slip 
even with steel tracks that weigh 17lbs.  each.  


Derek


On Thu, Feb 26, 2015 at 7:49 PM, 'Mike Mangus' via R/C  Tank Combat 
<_rctankcombat@googlegroups.com_ (mailto:rctankcombat@googlegroups.com) > wrote:


 
I found a small hub that fit the output shaft of the  gearbox.  Onto 
those,I welded a flat thick washer that was tapped for  three bolts.   The 
sprocket got three matching holes and is bolted  directly to the modified hub 
washer.  



At first I was concerned about abnormal wear in the gearbox by  the 
sideways pull of the tensioned tracks, but that has not been a problem  so far.


Mike M




 
  

 From: "_srwh74rn@gmail.com_ (mailto:srwh7...@gmail.com) " 
<_srwh74rn@gmail.com_ (mailto:srwh7...@gmail.com) >
To: _rctankcombat@googlegroups.com_ (mailto:rctankcombat@googlegroups.com)  
Sent: Thursday, February 26, 2015 1:15  PM
Subject: [TANKS] Re:  AMX13


Mike, i am interested in how you attached your drive sprockets to  the 
actual motors. 

Thx.
Stewart

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Re: [TANKS] Re: AMX13

[Derek Engelhaupt]

For smooth shafts with no keyways I use Fenner Trantorque keyless
bushings... They are quite expensive unless you find them on Ebay like I
did.  The come in metric and standard sizes.  They clamp down on the smooth
shaft while applying torque outward on the inner bore of the sprocket.
They clamp on the shaft and push out on the sprocket at the same time.
Using them on my drive shafts to attach my sprockets that drive my tracks.
Don't slip even with steel tracks that weigh 17lbs. each.

Derek

On Thu, Feb 26, 2015 at 7:49 PM, 'Mike Mangus' via R/C Tank Combat <
rctankcombat@googlegroups.com> wrote:

> I found a small hub that fit the output shaft of the gearbox.  Onto
> those,I welded a flat thick washer that was tapped for three bolts.   The
> sprocket got three matching holes and is bolted directly to the modified
> hub washer.
>
> At first I was concerned about abnormal wear in the gearbox by the
> sideways pull of the tensioned tracks, but that has not been a problem so
> far.
>
> Mike M
>
>   --
>  *From:* "srwh7...@gmail.com" 
> *To:* rctankcombat@googlegroups.com
> *Sent:* Thursday, February 26, 2015 1:15 PM
> *Subject:* [TANKS] Re: AMX13
>
> Mike, i am interested in how you attached your drive sprockets to the
> actual motors.
>
> Thx.
> Stewart
>
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Re: [TANKS] Re: AMX13

['Mike Mangus' via R/C Tank Combat]

I found a small hub that fit the output shaft of the gearbox.  Onto those,I 
welded a flat thick washer that was tapped for three bolts.   The sprocket got 
three matching holes and is bolted directly to the modified hub washer.  

At first I was concerned about abnormal wear in the gearbox by the sideways 
pull of the tensioned tracks, but that has not been a problem so far.
Mike M

  From: "srwh7...@gmail.com" 
 To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com 
 Sent: Thursday, February 26, 2015 1:15 PM
 Subject: [TANKS] Re: AMX13
   
Mike, i am interested in how you attached your drive sprockets to the actual 
motors. 

Thx.
Stewart

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[TANKS] Re: AMX13

[srwh74rn]

Mike, i am interested in how you attached your drive sprockets to the actual 
motors. 

Thx.
Stewart

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[TANKS] Re: AMX13

[TyngTech]

Other motor options, in particular the Harbor Freight saw motor/gearbox.

https://groups.google.com/forum/?hl=en#!searchin/rctankcombat/t-70$20motor/rctankcombat/uyaaYAQHsMM/IOHtJCDWEt0J

ST

On Thursday, February 19, 2015 at 12:25:36 PM UTC-5, srwh...@gmail.com 
wrote:
>
> Been kicking (or moving) this project around the work shed for a long 
> while. No actual progress beyond figuring out the curved hull front, until 
> now. In the past week I have managed to get the suspension swing arm design 
> to where I am happy with it and get 10 of them welded. I have also bought 
> and received the motors for the project.  I went with the ATV starter 
> motors (thanks Mike Mangus for the idea) that i saw used on the S-tank 
> T-081. I plan to use the same type of linear actuator to raise and lower 
> the articulated turret (crazy French). The suspension will use the same 
> type as T-044. I found some heavy duty lock collars that fit a 1/4 bolt 
> through the side (lock). I also think I have figured out the potential 
> paintball feed issues with the articulated turret, more on that once mocked 
> up. 
>
> Stewart
>

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RE: [TANKS] Re: AMX13

[Jean-Maxime Cyr St-Pierre]

It's looking nice!!

Can you give dimensions of theses??? I got M01 Motor on my SU-76 but these 
motors look nice for futur project...!! 

And if possible more picks of them with the dimension of each step of gearing 
to see if it can fit directly on some drive wheels...
 
Thank you


Jean-Maxime Cyr St-Pierre

Date: Thu, 19 Feb 2015 14:08:08 -0800
From: srwh7...@gmail.com
To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com
Subject: [TANKS] Re: AMX13

Steve, those look just like the starter motors i have sitting here
stewart 


On Thursday, February 19, 2015 at 4:18:29 PM UTC-5, TyngTech wrote:I've looked 
at these in the past as possible motors for my T-70 project.  TNC Scooters 
confirmed that the sprockets on these motors are standard 25 pitch.  Their also 
cheap at $18 each.
http://tncscooters.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=214&product_id=531


ST

On Thursday, February 19, 2015 at 4:02:16 PM UTC-5, srwh...@gmail.com wrote:Ya, 
they are case grounded, i see from photos of the S-tank they are too. Will 
investigate venting them too. Unlike the S-tank mine are not going to be 
directly attached to the drive hubs, going to hopefuly make use of the chain 
sprocket afixed to them. Going to hopefully reduce rpms a little. Have good 
local source for chain/sprocket ect supplies. As for a spair not a bad idea.



Stewart




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Re: [TANKS] Re: AMX13

['Mike Mangus' via R/C Tank Combat]

Nice find Steve.  I would have used those in the s-tank.
The S-tank starter motor setup did work, but the rpm was 400% more than needed. 
 To slow the tank down, I had to run the motors on 12v and at 20 - 25% 
throttle.  That made the motors work inefficiently hard and build up huge 
amounts of heat.  By the end of the last battle, the motors overheated.
 My fix is to eventually tank the starter motors apart, check the shaft size, 
and buy some large sized outrunners with more appropriate rpm per volts as well 
as for 24v operation.
Mike M

  From: TyngTech 
 To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com 
 Sent: Thursday, February 19, 2015 3:18 PM
 Subject: [TANKS] Re: AMX13
   
I've looked at these in the past as possible motors for my T-70 project.  TNC 
Scooters confirmed that the sprockets on these motors are standard 25 pitch.  
Their also cheap at $18 each.
http://tncscooters.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=214&product_id=531


ST

On Thursday, February 19, 2015 at 4:02:16 PM UTC-5, srwh...@gmail.com wrote:
Ya, they are case grounded, i see from photos of the S-tank they are too. Will 
investigate venting them too. Unlike the S-tank mine are not going to be 
directly attached to the drive hubs, going to hopefuly make use of the chain 
sprocket afixed to them. Going to hopefully reduce rpms a little. Have good 
local source for chain/sprocket ect supplies. As for a spair not a bad idea.

Stewart
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[TANKS] Re: AMX13

[TyngTech]

I've looked at these in the past as possible motors for my T-70 project. 
 TNC Scooters confirmed that the sprockets on these motors are standard 25 
pitch.  Their also cheap at $18 each.

http://tncscooters.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=214&product_id=531




ST


On Thursday, February 19, 2015 at 4:02:16 PM UTC-5, srwh...@gmail.com wrote:
>
> Ya, they are case grounded, i see from photos of the S-tank they are too. 
> Will investigate venting them too. Unlike the S-tank mine are not going to 
> be directly attached to the drive hubs, going to hopefuly make use of the 
> chain sprocket afixed to them. Going to hopefully reduce rpms a little. 
> Have good local source for chain/sprocket ect supplies. As for a spair not 
> a bad idea. 
>
> Stewart

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[TANKS] Re: AMX13

[srwh74rn]

Ya, they are case grounded, i see from photos of the S-tank they are too. Will 
investigate venting them too. Unlike the S-tank mine are not going to be 
directly attached to the drive hubs, going to hopefuly make use of the chain 
sprocket afixed to them. Going to hopefully reduce rpms a little. Have good 
local source for chain/sprocket ect supplies. As for a spair not a bad idea.

Stewart

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[TANKS] Re: AMX13

[TyngTech]

FYI on those ATV starter motors.  If I recall Mike burned one or two of 
them out that weekend he battled.  Their cheap enough so get a spare set. 
 You may want to investigate ways to open the motor casing up for venting. 
 Also be aware that the motors are probably case grounded so you'll want to 
address that.

Steve Tyng

On Thursday, February 19, 2015 at 12:25:36 PM UTC-5, srwh...@gmail.com 
wrote:
>
> Been kicking (or moving) this project around the work shed for a long 
> while. No actual progress beyond figuring out the curved hull front, until 
> now. In the past week I have managed to get the suspension swing arm design 
> to where I am happy with it and get 10 of them welded. I have also bought 
> and received the motors for the project.  I went with the ATV starter 
> motors (thanks Mike Mangus for the idea) that i saw used on the S-tank 
> T-081. I plan to use the same type of linear actuator to raise and lower 
> the articulated turret (crazy French). The suspension will use the same 
> type as T-044. I found some heavy duty lock collars that fit a 1/4 bolt 
> through the side (lock). I also think I have figured out the potential 
> paintball feed issues with the articulated turret, more on that once mocked 
> up. 
>
> Stewart
>

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