[TANKS] Re: turret molding question
Ah I see. I have some modelling clay that doesn't dry (for making figures). I suppose if the clay were to dry, it may crack and cause the filler to set and make weird attachments. On Sun, Jan 11, 2009 at 2:51 AM, Chris. b barthelso...@hotmail.com wrote: its not the type of clay that dries, it's a plastacine i think, it never dries and is always very workable. http://www.amcsupplies.com.au/catalogue/index.php?main_page=indexcPath=4_644_646 Chris. b On Jan 11, 2:52 pm, Mike Måne mike082...@gmail.com wrote: Sounds like a good idea. I suppose you could use PlayDoh if you didn't have time to let potter's clay dry. On Sat, Jan 10, 2009 at 6:10 PM, Chris. b barthelso...@hotmail.com wrote: just for molds, once the fibreglass sets you simply peel the clay out. Chris. b On Jan 11, 9:54 am, Mike Måne mike082...@gmail.com wrote: What do you mean by using clay? Did you use the clay for molds or actually part of the tank? On 1/10/09, Chris. b barthelso...@hotmail.com wrote: Another method I have been using lately. Build up most of the shape with any thing (I used 1/8 styrene cos that what I had) then model the final shape over the top of that in clay. The clay can be shaped very easily by hand, and is perfect for a single use mold because it can be reused over and over, this is the method I used for most of my KV-1 parts. Chris. b On Jan 11, 4:48 am, odysseyslipw...@aol.com wrote: In a message dated 1/10/2009 10:54:14 A.M. Eastern Standard Time, todjo...@comcast.net writes: gasoline will also melt the styrofoam out without damaging the fiberglass or stinking up the house. Tod J. - Original just do it outside, acitone (?) works better but you should do that outside with a mask Chris, _Odyssey Slipways_ ( http://hometown.aol.com/odysseyslipways/index.html) **A Good Credit Score is 700 or Above. See yours in just 2 easy steps! ( http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/10075x1215855013x1201028747/aol?red. .. cemailfooterNO62) -- -Mike Måne @http://moonrcprojects.googlepages.com-Hidehttp://moonrcprojects.googlepages.com-hide/quoted text - - Show quoted text - -- -Mike Måne @http://moonrcprojects.googlepages.com- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - -- -Mike Måne @ http://moonrcprojects.googlepages.com --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You are currently subscribed to the R/C Tank Combat group. To post a message, send email to rctankcombat@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe, send email to rctankcombat-unsubscr...@googlegroups.com Visit the group at http://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
[TANKS] Re: turret molding question
Doug Conn wrote: Oh ! I see now. Ron, is this what you were describing, too ? Sorry, I misunderstood. I guess it would be like this, then, where I sand away the blue areas Yes, grasshopper - the pebble is getting closer. What material is a good choice ? I don’t think foam would work for vacuforming. Even I use fiberglass, I’d like a mold that survives more than one use. By far, the best choice is wait for it you'd never guess it on your own but the winner and all around best choice is: Cedar Fence Boards Cedar is relatively cheap, cuts and sand easily, the dust does not fly in the air (it actually freshens the air in the workshop) and accepts any filler and sealer you want to use. Cedar is very light when compared to other common woods and it forms a very smooth surface when sanded, even across the grain. Unlike balsa (which is also much more expensive), the sawdust drops to the floor instead of floating in the air. In fact, if you sweep up the sawdust and put it in a plastic container, you can mix it into any resin as a thickening agent to make a nice sandable putty (it's called wood flour when used like that). So, after shaping the plug, you mix some epoxy or polyester resin, throw in enough cedar dust to make a mayonnaise consistency and then smear that over the surface. When dried, you can sand that just like wood filler and finish the surface as smooth as you want. I've personally made two large scale sailboats using cedar: http://www.pittelli.com/schooner/photos/ships/Frank/Wasa/ http://www.pittelli.com/schooner/photos/ships/Frank/Junk/ and I've found it to be the best softwood to work with for non-structural components. (Popular is my favorite choice when a hardwood is needed for strength or durability.) Styrofoam is a workshop nightmare, especially in the winter when static electricity will cause it to stick to everything. Unless you have the right tools, it is harder to work with than wood and less forgiving. You cannot make a sharp angle or detail in styrofoam like you can in wood. Worst, when you push on it, it compresses and then rebounds, making it very difficult to get a smooth contour. We (not just me) tried using it for numerous large scale boat molds in the early warship days, learning with each bad project that wood was the proper plug-making material. Frank P. --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You are currently subscribed to the R/C Tank Combat group. To post a message, send email to rctankcombat@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe, send email to rctankcombat-unsubscr...@googlegroups.com Visit the group at http://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
[TANKS] Re: turret molding question
gasoline will also melt the styrofoam out without damaging the fiberglass or stinking up the house. Tod J. - Original Message - From: Paul Hilton To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com Sent: Saturday, January 10, 2009 2:54 AM Subject: [TANKS] Re: turret molding question Doug, I used Styrofoam covered in aluminum foil for the BT-7 turret. I still have the form. It was constructed from layers of Styrofoam. Hard templates were used for guiding a bread knife to cut the conical shape. I used a positive mold method. The form was made a bit smaller than the finished product and served only to provide a general shape. Layers of fiberglass cloth and mat were then applied to the outside surface. Any imperfections can be sanded and refilled. This is the cheapest method that I could think of for an irregularly shaped turret. A lost foam method might work well for a post WWII American tank like the M-26 Pershing with an irregular, rounded shape and prominent overhang. In this method you would build your fiberglass shell over your foam core, then melt it out in an oven. Of course this would be a one off mold, but how many turrets of the same type would you want? Paul H. --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You are currently subscribed to the R/C Tank Combat group. To post a message, send email to rctankcombat@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe, send email to rctankcombat-unsubscr...@googlegroups.com Visit the group at http://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
[TANKS] Re: turret molding question
In a message dated 1/9/2009 9:45:34 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, barthelso...@hotmail.com writes: Make your master exactly how you want your turret to look, then give it a couple of coats of fibreglass. Pull the master out and discard it. Once the master is out you have a perfect negative replica of your turret, coat the inside of the fibreglass shell with a mold release, then layup more fibreglass inside it, then demold. With this method you can make as many turrets as you want using the 1 fibreglass mold. Chris. b ya, but if you make slight goof with the release you could stand to loose the mold Chris, _Odyssey Slipways_ (http://hometown.aol.com/odysseyslipways/index.html) **A Good Credit Score is 700 or Above. See yours in just 2 easy steps! (http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/10075x1215855013x1201028747/aol?redir=http://www.freecreditreport.com/pm/default.aspx?sc=668072%26hmpgID=62%26bcd=De cemailfooterNO62) --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You are currently subscribed to the R/C Tank Combat group. To post a message, send email to rctankcombat@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe, send email to rctankcombat-unsubscr...@googlegroups.com Visit the group at http://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
[TANKS] Re: turret molding question
Another method I have been using lately. Build up most of the shape with any thing (I used 1/8 styrene cos that what I had) then model the final shape over the top of that in clay. The clay can be shaped very easily by hand, and is perfect for a single use mold because it can be reused over and over, this is the method I used for most of my KV-1 parts. Chris. b On Jan 11, 4:48 am, odysseyslipw...@aol.com wrote: In a message dated 1/10/2009 10:54:14 A.M. Eastern Standard Time, todjo...@comcast.net writes: gasoline will also melt the styrofoam out without damaging the fiberglass or stinking up the house. Tod J. - Original just do it outside, acitone (?) works better but you should do that outside with a mask Chris, _Odyssey Slipways_ (http://hometown.aol.com/odysseyslipways/index.html) **A Good Credit Score is 700 or Above. See yours in just 2 easy steps! (http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/10075x1215855013x1201028747/aol?red... cemailfooterNO62) --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You are currently subscribed to the R/C Tank Combat group. To post a message, send email to rctankcombat@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe, send email to rctankcombat-unsubscr...@googlegroups.com Visit the group at http://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
[TANKS] Re: turret molding question
just for molds, once the fibreglass sets you simply peel the clay out. Chris. b On Jan 11, 9:54 am, Mike Måne mike082...@gmail.com wrote: What do you mean by using clay? Did you use the clay for molds or actually part of the tank? On 1/10/09, Chris. b barthelso...@hotmail.com wrote: Another method I have been using lately. Build up most of the shape with any thing (I used 1/8 styrene cos that what I had) then model the final shape over the top of that in clay. The clay can be shaped very easily by hand, and is perfect for a single use mold because it can be reused over and over, this is the method I used for most of my KV-1 parts. Chris. b On Jan 11, 4:48 am, odysseyslipw...@aol.com wrote: In a message dated 1/10/2009 10:54:14 A.M. Eastern Standard Time, todjo...@comcast.net writes: gasoline will also melt the styrofoam out without damaging the fiberglass or stinking up the house. Tod J. - Original just do it outside, acitone (?) works better but you should do that outside with a mask Chris, _Odyssey Slipways_ (http://hometown.aol.com/odysseyslipways/index.html) **A Good Credit Score is 700 or Above. See yours in just 2 easy steps! (http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/10075x1215855013x1201028747/aol?red... cemailfooterNO62) -- -Mike Måne @http://moonrcprojects.googlepages.com- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You are currently subscribed to the R/C Tank Combat group. To post a message, send email to rctankcombat@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe, send email to rctankcombat-unsubscr...@googlegroups.com Visit the group at http://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
[TANKS] Re: turret molding question
What is the height and diameter of the dome your making? It looks similar to what we use for R2D2 droids. The R2D2 domes are available as vacume formed Styrene. Also in Aluminum. Andy From: Doug Conn dwconn...@comcast.netTo: rctankcombat@googlegroups.comSent: Thursday, January 8, 2009 11:50:22 PMSubject: [TANKS] turret molding question Hello – A couple of weeks ago I mentioned my plan to build a turret mold. I haven’t decided yet if I’ll use fiberglass or vacuform. I thought I’d build the mold and then drill vent holes (and hollow it out a little) if I decided to use vacuforming. I want to use layers of ½” or 3/8” MDF to build the basic turret shape and then fill the stair-step gaps with filler and sand until I have the right curves. The diagram below shows what I’m thinking in cross-section. The yellow shows MDF and the blue is filler material. At first, I was going to use Bondo as the filler material but now I’m thinking that is overkill. I may be able to get away with something easier to work with like spackle or water putty (http://www.waterputty.com/ ). What do you think ? Any thoughts about what kind of filler would be appropriate ? I know I’ll need to polish like crazy if I make this a fiberglass mold. Thanks a lot, Doug--~--~-~--~~~---~--~~You are currently subscribed to the "R/C Tank Combat" group. To post a message, send email to rctankcombat@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe, send email to rctankcombat-unsubscr...@googlegroups.com Visit the group at http://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat-~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
[TANKS] Re: turret molding question
My example picture just shows a dome. The actual turret is kind of a squashed teardrop shape. It’s about 15” on the major axis, 13” on the minor axis, and about 5” tall. - Doug From: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com [mailto:rctankcom...@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of AES Sent: Friday, January 09, 2009 12:30 PM To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com Subject: [TANKS] Re: turret molding question What is the height and diameter of the dome your making? It looks similar to what we use for R2D2 droids. The R2D2 domes are available as vacume formed Styrene. Also in Aluminum. Andy _ From: Doug Conn dwconn...@comcast.net To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com Sent: Thursday, January 8, 2009 11:50:22 PM Subject: [TANKS] turret molding question Hello – A couple of weeks ago I mentioned my plan to build a turret mold. I haven’t decided yet if I’ll use fiberglass or vacuform. I thought I’d build the mold and then drill vent holes (and hollow it out a little) if I decided to use vacuforming. I want to use layers of ½” or 3/8” MDF to build the basic turret shape and then fill the stair-step gaps with filler and sand until I have the right curves. The diagram below shows what I’m thinking in cross-section. The yellow shows MDF and the blue is filler material. At first, I was going to use Bondo as the filler material but now I’m thinking that is overkill. I may be able to get away with something easier to work with like spackle or water putty (http://www.waterputty.com/ ). What do you think ? Any thoughts about what kind of filler would be appropriate ? I know I’ll need to polish like crazy if I make this a fiberglass mold. Thanks a lot, Doug --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You are currently subscribed to the R/C Tank Combat group. To post a message, send email to rctankcombat@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe, send email to rctankcombat-unsubscr...@googlegroups.com Visit the group at http://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat -~--~~~~--~~--~--~--- inline: image001.jpg
[TANKS] Re: turret molding question
That's the beauty of the lift method. Each slice defines the widest point of that slice. When you do the final shaping, you carve down to the next slice, first with a plane or chisel, then with a soft pad sander to fair things up. You would have to use something more workable than MDO though. Ron Doug Conn wrote: The turret is an odd, irregular shape. I don't think I have the skills or 'artists eye' to get it even close to right. I created patterns for the MDF layers by taking horizontal slices of the tank turret from a 3d model. I was hoping that by having those slices the right shape, there would be a lot less I'd need to eyeball when sanding. - Doug -Original Message- From: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com [mailto:rctankcom...@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of Ron Sent: Friday, January 09, 2009 11:15 AM To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com Subject: [TANKS] Re: turret molding question While I have never built a tank or a mold, I have built a number of boats both scale and up to 20 feet full size. Rather than filling and sanding, how about making the mold oversize and then sawing/planing/surforming/sanding to size. It should be less work and less expensive. Ron Doug Conn wrote: Hello – A couple of weeks ago I mentioned my plan to build a turret mold. I haven’t decided yet if I’ll use fiberglass or vacuform. I thought I’d build the mold and then drill vent holes (and hollow it out a little) if I decided to use vacuforming. I want to use layers of ½” or 3/8” MDF to build the basic turret shape and then fill the stair-step gaps with filler and sand until I have the right curves. The diagram below shows what I’m thinking in cross-section. The yellow shows MDF and the blue is filler material. At first, I was going to use Bondo as the filler material but now I’m thinking that is overkill. I may be able to get away with something easier to work with like spackle or water putty (http://www.waterputty.com/ ). What do you think ? Any thoughts about what kind of filler would be appropriate ? I know I’ll need to polish like crazy if I make this a fiberglass mold. Thanks a lot, Doug --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You are currently subscribed to the R/C Tank Combat group. To post a message, send email to rctankcombat@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe, send email to rctankcombat-unsubscr...@googlegroups.com Visit the group at http://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
[TANKS] Re: turret molding question
I'm looking at building a very similar turret for my T55, I'm going to be using foam and plaster filler. Easy to shape, cheap to buy. Maybe cut your layers in foam, then simply fill in the rest with filler I'm going to be fibreglassing mine simply because I have more experience with it then I do with vacuforming. Chris. b On Jan 10, 7:18 am, Ron sailma...@comcast.net wrote: That's the beauty of the lift method. Each slice defines the widest point of that slice. When you do the final shaping, you carve down to the next slice, first with a plane or chisel, then with a soft pad sander to fair things up. You would have to use something more workable than MDO though. Ron Doug Conn wrote: The turret is an odd, irregular shape. I don't think I have the skills or 'artists eye' to get it even close to right. I created patterns for the MDF layers by taking horizontal slices of the tank turret from a 3d model. I was hoping that by having those slices the right shape, there would be a lot less I'd need to eyeball when sanding. - Doug -Original Message- From: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com [mailto:rctankcom...@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of Ron Sent: Friday, January 09, 2009 11:15 AM To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com Subject: [TANKS] Re: turret molding question While I have never built a tank or a mold, I have built a number of boats both scale and up to 20 feet full size. Rather than filling and sanding, how about making the mold oversize and then sawing/planing/surforming/sanding to size. It should be less work and less expensive. Ron Doug Conn wrote: Hello – A couple of weeks ago I mentioned my plan to build a turret mold. I haven’t decided yet if I’ll use fiberglass or vacuform. I thought I’d build the mold and then drill vent holes (and hollow it out a little) if I decided to use vacuforming. I want to use layers of ½” or 3/8” MDF to build the basic turret shape and then fill the stair-step gaps with filler and sand until I have the right curves. The diagram below shows what I’m thinking in cross-section. The yellow shows MDF and the blue is filler material. At first, I was going to use Bondo as the filler material but now I’m thinking that is overkill. I may be able to get away with something easier to work with like spackle or water putty (http://www.waterputty.com/). What do you think ? Any thoughts about what kind of filler would be appropriate ? I know I’ll need to polish like crazy if I make this a fiberglass mold. Thanks a lot, Doug- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You are currently subscribed to the R/C Tank Combat group. To post a message, send email to rctankcombat@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe, send email to rctankcombat-unsubscr...@googlegroups.com Visit the group at http://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
[TANKS] Re: turret molding question
Doug Conn wrote: I created patterns for the MDF layers by taking horizontal slices of the tank turret from a 3d model. I was hoping that by having those slices the right shape, there would be a lot less I'd need to eyeball when sanding. You can use the bread and butter approach: 1) Create each horizontal slab using the maximum dimension for each slab. In other words, each slab will extend outside the desired surface. 2) Create a paper template for each slab using the minimum dimension for each slab. The paper will represent the desired surface. 3) Sandwich the paper between the slabs and glue everything together. 4) Sand away the exposed edges of all slabs until you hit paper, making a smooth transition from one slab to the next. No artistic skill needed, just a long rasp or file used with long strokes and patience. Frank P. --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You are currently subscribed to the R/C Tank Combat group. To post a message, send email to rctankcombat@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe, send email to rctankcombat-unsubscr...@googlegroups.com Visit the group at http://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
[TANKS] Re: turret molding question
Frank, That is what I was attempting to say. You did it so much better! Ron Frank Pittelli wrote: Doug Conn wrote: I created patterns for the MDF layers by taking horizontal slices of the tank turret from a 3d model. I was hoping that by having those slices the right shape, there would be a lot less I'd need to eyeball when sanding. You can use the bread and butter approach: 1) Create each horizontal slab using the maximum dimension for each slab. In other words, each slab will extend outside the desired surface. 2) Create a paper template for each slab using the minimum dimension for each slab. The paper will represent the desired surface. 3) Sandwich the paper between the slabs and glue everything together. 4) Sand away the exposed edges of all slabs until you hit paper, making a smooth transition from one slab to the next. No artistic skill needed, just a long rasp or file used with long strokes and patience. Frank P. --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You are currently subscribed to the R/C Tank Combat group. To post a message, send email to rctankcombat@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe, send email to rctankcombat-unsubscr...@googlegroups.com Visit the group at http://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
[TANKS] Re: turret molding question
Oh ! I see now. Ron, is this what you were describing, too ? Sorry, I misunderstood. I guess it would be like this, then, where I sand away the blue areas What material is a good choice ? I don't think foam would work for vacuforming. Even I use fiberglass, I'd like a mold that survives more than one use. Thanks for the help. - Doug -Original Message- From: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com [mailto:rctankcom...@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of Frank Pittelli Sent: Friday, January 09, 2009 6:22 PM To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com Subject: [TANKS] Re: turret molding question Doug Conn wrote: I created patterns for the MDF layers by taking horizontal slices of the tank turret from a 3d model. I was hoping that by having those slices the right shape, there would be a lot less I'd need to eyeball when sanding. You can use the bread and butter approach: 1) Create each horizontal slab using the maximum dimension for each slab. In other words, each slab will extend outside the desired surface. 2) Create a paper template for each slab using the minimum dimension for each slab. The paper will represent the desired surface. 3) Sandwich the paper between the slabs and glue everything together. 4) Sand away the exposed edges of all slabs until you hit paper, making a smooth transition from one slab to the next. No artistic skill needed, just a long rasp or file used with long strokes and patience. Frank P. --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You are currently subscribed to the R/C Tank Combat group. To post a message, send email to rctankcombat@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe, send email to rctankcombat-unsubscr...@googlegroups.com Visit the group at http://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat -~--~~~~--~~--~--~--- inline: image003.jpg
[TANKS] Re: turret molding question
Make your master exactly how you want your turret to look, then give it a couple of coats of fibreglass. Pull the master out and discard it. Once the master is out you have a perfect negative replica of your turret, coat the inside of the fibreglass shell with a mold release, then layup more fibreglass inside it, then demold. With this method you can make as many turrets as you want using the 1 fibreglass mold. Chris. b On Jan 10, 9:36 am, Doug Conn dwconn...@comcast.net wrote: Oh ! I see now. Ron, is this what you were describing, too ? Sorry, I misunderstood. I guess it would be like this, then, where I sand away the blue areas image003.jpg 6KViewDownload What material is a good choice ? I don't think foam would work for vacuforming. Even I use fiberglass, I'd like a mold that survives more than one use. Thanks for the help. - Doug -Original Message- From: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com [mailto:rctankcom...@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of Frank Pittelli Sent: Friday, January 09, 2009 6:22 PM To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com Subject: [TANKS] Re: turret molding question Doug Conn wrote: I created patterns for the MDF layers by taking horizontal slices of the tank turret from a 3d model. I was hoping that by having those slices the right shape, there would be a lot less I'd need to eyeball when sanding. You can use the bread and butter approach: 1) Create each horizontal slab using the maximum dimension for each slab. In other words, each slab will extend outside the desired surface. 2) Create a paper template for each slab using the minimum dimension for each slab. The paper will represent the desired surface. 3) Sandwich the paper between the slabs and glue everything together. 4) Sand away the exposed edges of all slabs until you hit paper, making a smooth transition from one slab to the next. No artistic skill needed, just a long rasp or file used with long strokes and patience. Frank P.- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You are currently subscribed to the R/C Tank Combat group. To post a message, send email to rctankcombat@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe, send email to rctankcombat-unsubscr...@googlegroups.com Visit the group at http://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat -~--~~~~--~~--~--~---
[TANKS] Re: turret molding question
Doug, I used Styrofoam covered in aluminum foil for the BT-7 turret. I still have the form. It was constructed from layers of Styrofoam. Hard templates were used for guiding a bread knife to cut the conical shape. I used a positive mold method. The form was made a bit smaller than the finished product and served only to provide a general shape. Layers of fiberglass cloth and mat were then applied to the outside surface. Any imperfections can be sanded and refilled. This is the cheapest method that I could think of for an irregularly shaped turret. A lost foam method might work well for a post WWII American tank like the M-26 Pershing with an irregular, rounded shape and prominent overhang. In this method you would build your fiberglass shell over your foam core, then melt it out in an oven. Of course this would be a one off mold, but how many turrets of the same type would you want? Paul H. - Original Message - From: Doug Conn To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com Sent: Friday, January 09, 2009 6:36 PM Subject: [TANKS] Re: turret molding question Oh ! I see now. Ron, is this what you were describing, too ? Sorry, I misunderstood. I guess it would be like this, then, where I sand away the blue areas What material is a good choice ? I don't think foam would work for vacuforming. Even I use fiberglass, I'd like a mold that survives more than one use. Thanks for the help. - Doug -Original Message- From: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com [mailto:rctankcom...@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of Frank Pittelli Sent: Friday, January 09, 2009 6:22 PM To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com Subject: [TANKS] Re: turret molding question Doug Conn wrote: I created patterns for the MDF layers by taking horizontal slices of the tank turret from a 3d model. I was hoping that by having those slices the right shape, there would be a lot less I'd need to eyeball when sanding. You can use the bread and butter approach: 1) Create each horizontal slab using the maximum dimension for each slab. In other words, each slab will extend outside the desired surface. 2) Create a paper template for each slab using the minimum dimension for each slab. The paper will represent the desired surface. 3) Sandwich the paper between the slabs and glue everything together. 4) Sand away the exposed edges of all slabs until you hit paper, making a smooth transition from one slab to the next. No artistic skill needed, just a long rasp or file used with long strokes and patience. Frank P. --~--~-~--~~~---~--~~ You are currently subscribed to the R/C Tank Combat group. To post a message, send email to rctankcombat@googlegroups.com To unsubscribe, send email to rctankcombat-unsubscr...@googlegroups.com Visit the group at http://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat -~--~~~~--~~--~--~--- inline: image003.jpg
