[RE-wrenches] Looking for insulated #6 bare standoff
Greetings Dana,
You may consider sheathing the bare copper wire in a product
appropriately rated for the outdoors and UV etc... Possibly
Liquidtight Flexible Nonmetallic Conduit (LFNC), electronics
insulating sheathing, continuous grommet channel, heat shrink tubing,
or some type of weather stripping product.
Stainless steel cable clamps ("p" clips); bare, coated, or with EPDM
bushing/lining may also be a possible solution.
Heyco Products may be a good source to search for a solution:
https://www.heyco.com/
If time and budget allows you may like to consider using an
appropriately rated insulated wire with a green outer finish. #6 AWG
USE-2 with green insulation may be an option. The insulation can be
removed where needed for connection to the ground lugs etc.
Hope you find a good solution for the project.
Best regards,
MATT
Matthew Sirum
P.O. Box 1227
Greenfield, MA 01302-1227 USA
phone: +1.413.773.0611
email: matthewsi...@gmail.com
-- Original Message Below --
[RE-wrenches] Looking for insulated #6 bare standoff
Dana dana at solarwork.com
Wed Apr 18 09:00:27 PDT 2018
Good Morning Wrenches,
I am required to keep the bare #6 copper from touching the aluminum frame
work of a Array Technologies tracker where it is not mechanically connected
by a pass-through ground clamp on a tracking array [dissimilar metals] and
am looking for a lead on an insulated standoff or strap to hold the #6 bare
copper as it passes from panel to panel and rail to rail. The plans examiner
would accept pass through clamps & this is a worst case-spendy solution to
this.
I have searched the inquired at local electrical warehouse &on the internet
and to no avail under "insulated strap" & "insulated cable standoff".
Has anyone else encountered his & what did you use? Where did you source
this strap?
I remember seeing something like this in the fuzzy past & cannot recall
where I saw it or what it was for.
Thanks for any suggestions.
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[RE-wrenches] TJI rafters
Greetings Jerry, I believe I remember reading some Trus Joist technical documentation which indicated no more than one hole should be drilled or lag screw/bolt driven into any cross sectional area of the top flange. If using the Quick Mount Q-Base with two lag screws/bolts, will you be orienting the Q-Base so that the two lags are in line vertically with each other or side by side?... Seems like side by side (straddling the web) may not be a good approach. Staggered vertically (straddling the web) may be alright if the size of the holes and lags are appropriate for the top flange dimensions and can be installed where allowed by the rafter/joist manufacturer's specifications. I hope you are able to accurately identify the rafter/joist manufacturer and the rafter/joist model so you can reach out to them for guidance on what are and are not acceptable attachment methods for their product. Other thoughts: If access to the underside of the roof structure allows, installing appropriate blocking with proper hangers and fasteners would likely be a more robust way to go. I have looked into using stainless steel j-bolts to hook the underside of the rafter members in situations like this as well; the rest of the install from the top side is just like working with hanger bolts. If the roof decking/sheathing and its attachment fasteners and schedule are all known and sufficient, a multi-fastener deck mount type mounting product may possibly be an appropriate and labor/time saving option. Best regards, MATT Matthew Sirum P.O. Box 1227 Greenfield, MA 01302-1227 USA phone: +1.413.773.0611 email: matthewsi...@gmail.com -- Original Message Below -- [RE-wrenches] TJI rafters Jerry Caldwell solarcowboy at yahoo.com Tue Mar 6 15:57:04 PST 2018 Bill, Mineral bitumen roll roofing. 2:12 slope. Everyone who gave input below, thanks for the suggestions. I've decided to go with the Quick Mount Q-Base product. It allows you to get 2 lag bolts into the top chord on either side of the OSB web. Cheers,Jerry Caldwell ___ List sponsored by Redwood Alliance List Address: RE-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org Change listserver email address & settings: http://lists.re-wrenches.org/options.cgi/re-wrenches-re-wrenches.org List-Archive: http://www.mail-archive.com/re-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org/maillist.html List rules & etiquette: www.re-wrenches.org/etiquette.htm Check out or update participant bios: www.members.re-wrenches.org
[RE-wrenches] Interstate battery charging info
Greetings Jay, If you aren't having any success getting the Interstate Battery information you are searching for these contacts may be of help... Interstate Battery, Dallas, TX 800.541.8419 Here are a couple of names of Interstate Battery ProClinic trainers from the Power Management Group: Gale Kimbrough (Gale was the Technical Services Manager when I trained with him and has taught many of their battery classes over the years. He may be retired by now?) Jim Powell Sorry, I can't seem to find an email address for either of these folks at the moment. These gentlemen worked on the heavy-duty truck and industrial battery training service department at Interstate Battery, but were tied in with engineering... So, if you can reach them they should be able to get you what you are looking for or at least connect you with someone who can. If all else fails I hope these contacts may be helpful. Best regards, MATT Matthew Sirum P.O. Box 1227 Greenfield, MA 01302-1227 USA phone: +1.413.773.0611 email: matthewsi...@gmail.com --Original Message Below-- [RE-wrenches] Interstate battery charging info Jay jay.peltz at gmail.com Mon Dec 18 18:17:56 PST 2017 Hi all I can’t seem to find much information at all on the interstate web site. I’m trying to find out charging information and maybe cycle curves for someone with interstate L-16 HCL. Any ideas? Thx Jay ___ List sponsored by Redwood Alliance List Address: RE-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org Change listserver email address & settings: http://lists.re-wrenches.org/options.cgi/re-wrenches-re-wrenches.org List-Archive: http://www.mail-archive.com/re-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org/maillist.html List rules & etiquette: www.re-wrenches.org/etiquette.htm Check out or update participant bios: www.members.re-wrenches.org
[RE-wrenches] Breaker trip
Greetings Mac, If you haven't already done so it may be interesting to check the actual current when the circuit breaker trips. Put a reliable DC clamp-on current meter on one of the charge controller's output conductors, set it to log the maximum current, and operate the load in question. See what the max current is when the circuit breaker trips. Also; I am curious if the existing charge controller output circuit breaker is a model which is rated for 100% continuous duty? If it is not and the max current measured is not too great it may be possible to swap it out for one which is 100% continuous duty rated and still maintain the same amperage circuit breaker. Best regards, MATT Matthew Sirum P.O. Box 1227 Greenfield, MA 01302-1227 USA phone: +1.413.773.0611 email: matthewsi...@gmail.com -- Original Message Below -- [RE-wrenches] Breaker trip Mac Lewis maclewis1 at gmail.com Wed Dec 6 04:18:11 PST 2017 Hello wrenches, I've got a mysterious breaker tripping that I need some ideas on how to fix. Original system: Array 6 x 235W Kyocera modules 1 x Outback FM60 charge controller 1 x Magnum MS 4024 PAE inverter Upgraded system we stacked a second inverter to accommodate an air compressor: Array 6 x 235W Kyocera modules 1 x Outback FM60 charge controller *2 x Magnum MS 4024 PAE inverter* There have been no changes to the solar array, just to the inverter side of the system. We have been getting intermittent breaker tripping (a couple of weeks between) on the battery breaker side of the charge controller. The basics have been checked and rechecked. Torque is good on all sides of the breaker all the way to the battery bussing. The only thing that I can think of is that during a surge on the AC side its sucking enough current out of the charge controller caps to trip this breaker occasionally. Has anyone experienced this? The only way I can see to fix it is to go with a larger breaker ampacity, but maybe there is something better. Does anyone no how quickly the max current setting in the Outback can respond, would dropping this help? Thanks -- Mac Lewis *"Yo solo sé que no sé nada." -Sócrates* ___ List sponsored by Redwood Alliance List Address: RE-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org Change listserver email address & settings: http://lists.re-wrenches.org/options.cgi/re-wrenches-re-wrenches.org List-Archive: http://www.mail-archive.com/re-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org/maillist.html List rules & etiquette: www.re-wrenches.org/etiquette.htm Check out or update participant bios: www.members.re-wrenches.org
[RE-wrenches] battery buss bar stock
Greetings Jay, I second the Storm Power Components (formerly Storm Copper) recommendation https://stormpowercomponents.com/ In addition to Storm you may also like to take a look at: Farmers Copper http://www.farmerscopper.com/ Watteredge Products (now renamed as parent company Southwire) http://www.watteredge.com/ Electric Equipment & Engineering Company (EEE) http://eeeusa.com/ EEE manufactures interconnects, bus bars, terminal plates, and etc for some of the industrial battery system companies. If you are looking for cell interconnects for stringing 2-volt cells together they may be a resource. You may remember the custom DC bus system pictures I shared with you a while back; I sourced the large DC battery system circuit breakers from EEE and the C11000 copper bar stock and insulators came from Storm. Here is the last contact I had with EEE: Mike Morroni, phone: 303.296.1476 ext: 21, email: mike.morr...@eeeusa.com As Tump mentioned, McMaster-Carr as well as Grainger and MSC also sell copper stock. Best regards, MATT Matthew Sirum P.O. Box 1227 Greenfield, MA 01302-1227 USA phone: +1.413.773.0611 email: matthewsi...@gmail.com -- Original Message Below -- [RE-wrenches] battery buss bar stock jay jay.peltz at gmail.com Fri Dec 1 08:06:00 PST 2017 HI All, I’m wondering if anyone has a good source for battery buss bar stock. Either pre made ones or stock I can use to make myself. It would be for larger Rolls GEL 2v in this case but other battery sizes/types as well. thanks jay peltz power ___ List sponsored by Redwood Alliance List Address: RE-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org Change listserver email address & settings: http://lists.re-wrenches.org/options.cgi/re-wrenches-re-wrenches.org List-Archive: http://www.mail-archive.com/re-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org/maillist.html List rules & etiquette: www.re-wrenches.org/etiquette.htm Check out or update participant bios: www.members.re-wrenches.org
[RE-wrenches] Outdoor rated insulation covering for Solar Water Heating Systems
Greetings Chris, I used to do a lot of solar thermal installations and rehabs on older systems. I tried not to use elastomeric type pipe insulation (such as Armacell/Armaflex and Rubatex Insul-Tube 180) outdoors, because of all the unsightly and deterioration issues I observed on air conditioning and refrigeration installations. When I did need to use the elastomeric type pipe insulation outdoors I coated it with the specific manufacturer supplied UV resistant paint product. I pre-painted the lengths to be used before installation and then touched up with more paint as needed once installed. My preferred outdoor exposed-run pipe insulation is extruded rigid urethane jacketed with either UV rated PVC or aluminum jackets/sheathes. The extruded rigid urethane insulation was available in straight lengths as well as 45° and 90° elbows. All was available split in halves for ease of installation. The PVC jackets/sheathes were also available in 45° and 90° elbows. I would secure the insulation in place with a ripstop tape strip product and then install the jacket/sheathe over it. Thermocouple/sensor wires and tray cable for PV direct powered pumps could be hidden between the insulation and outer jacket/sheath. I have tried a number of methods for securing and closing the PVC jackets/sheathes; glue/cement, stainless steel tacks, aluminum tacks, aluminum rivets. The push in tacks with serrated shank and white flat heads were decent for a while, but I had the best long term success with rivets. They took a little longer to install and need to be cut or drilled out for service access to the pipe, but held well for the long term and helped create the best aesthetic installation. I have also used the PVC and aluminum jackets/sheathes over elastomeric insulation products with the same method for closing and securing the jacket/sheath. The majority of my solar thermal installs were in the Northeast U.S. and the PVC jacket/sheath over extruded rigid urethane pipe insulation installs are expected to last and look decent for 10-20 years before requiring rework. Having rehabbed systems which were 20-30+ years old I know the PVC jacket/sheath and insulation degrade and breakdown with heat and Sunlight over time. I expect the functional and aesthetically acceptable lifetime of the jacket/sheath and insulation is likely much less in regions with exposure to higher prolonged ambient temperatures and greater Sun/UV intensity over time. I believe different jacket/sheath mil thickness is available, with the thicker mil products being more suitable for harsher environments. Best regards, MATT Matthew Sirum P.O. Box 1227 Greenfield, MA 01302-1227 USA phone: +1.413.773.0611 email: matthewsi...@gmail.com -- Original Message Below -- [RE-wrenches] Outdoor rated insulation covering for Solar Water Heating Systems cwarfel cwarfel at entech-engineering.com Fri Nov 3 08:06:58 PDT 2017 I would like to add a covering to the Armorflex insulation we installed on a solar water heating system. Can anyone recommend a manufacturer's product that a reasonably competent person can install? Right now we have wrapped the insulation in UV resistant tape, but it doesn't look all that great. Thank you, Chris -- Christopher Warfel, PE Entech Engineering, Inc. 401-466-8978 ___ List sponsored by Redwood Alliance List Address: RE-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org Change listserver email address & settings: http://lists.re-wrenches.org/options.cgi/re-wrenches-re-wrenches.org List-Archive: http://www.mail-archive.com/re-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org/maillist.html List rules & etiquette: www.re-wrenches.org/etiquette.htm Check out or update participant bios: www.members.re-wrenches.org
[RE-wrenches] Defective UFOs
Greetings Andrew, Besides failing during installation, what are the indicators of having a bad item in hand? Is/are there any visible characteristic(s) or item coding indicating which UFOs are defective? Do you know about how many defective units made their way onto the distribution market? Thank you for sharing this issue with us. Best regards, MATT Matthew Sirum P.O. Box 1227 Greenfield, MA 01302-1227 USA phone: +1.413.773.0611 email: matthewsi...@gmail.com -- Original Message Below -- [RE-wrenches] Defective UFOs Solar Energy Solutions Tue, 10 Oct 2017 18:21:07 -0700 Dear Wrenches,We were at a project yesterday and were quite perplexed as to why we were breaking so many Iron Ridge UFOs.. 15 on a 10kW. Had it not been for us attending an IR workshop today it would still be a mystery and the problem would continue to plague us for the next several installation. Below is the IronRidge reply. A couple batches of black ufo made it out in the market place due to a machine calibration issue that has been identified and fixed. The customers are to send an email tosupp...@ironridge.com If they come across any bad product and will be taken care of with new product and a return address to send the bad ones back to the factory. Smiles, Andrew KoyaanisqatsiPresidentSolar Energy Solutions, Inc. The BRIGHT CHOICE Since 1987, helping you and your Portland neighbors move towards an environmentally sustainable future.503-238-4502 www.SolarEnergyOregon.com ___ List sponsored by Redwood Alliance List Address: RE-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org Change listserver email address & settings: http://lists.re-wrenches.org/options.cgi/re-wrenches-re-wrenches.org List-Archive: http://www.mail-archive.com/re-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org/maillist.html List rules & etiquette: www.re-wrenches.org/etiquette.htm Check out or update participant bios: www.members.re-wrenches.org
[RE-wrenches] OutBack Power MATE3 to MATE3S Upgrade
Greetings All, I'm preparing to replace an existing OutBack Power MATE3 System Display/Controller with the new MATE3S. The system is a grid tied 5 stack of Radian GS8048A Inverter/Chargers. I am interested to know if any of you may have done this and if you encountered any issues or have any insights to pass along. This system does have a generator and uses the Advanced Generator Start (AGS) function to control generator start/stop and battery charging while the generator is running. I believe this is the only Display/Controller based function the system is using, so it will likely need to be programed and setup in the new MATE3S. I am hopeful that all other programing is stored in the Radians and will not need to be reprogramed/entered to the new MATE3S. The system is connected to OpticsRE (OutBack Power's system monitoring website/service). I assume we may need to do some programing from the new MATE3S and/or from the system's OpticsRE site to enable communication since the new MATE3S may have a different IP address, MAC Address, and etc than the MATE3 we are removing. We are hopeful the new MATE3S will allow the system to function better with its OpticsRE site and not need to be reset every couple months. Please let me know if you have any experience or thoughts to offer. Have any of you installed and setup the new MATE3S? Any Issues, insights, or comparisons to the MATE3 to report? Thank you! Best regards, ----MATT Matthew Sirum P.O. Box 1227 Greenfield, MA 01302-1227 USA phone: +1.413.773.0611 email: matthewsi...@gmail.com ___ List sponsored by Redwood Alliance List Address: RE-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org Change listserver email address & settings: http://lists.re-wrenches.org/options.cgi/re-wrenches-re-wrenches.org List-Archive: http://www.mail-archive.com/re-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org/maillist.html List rules & etiquette: www.re-wrenches.org/etiquette.htm Check out or update participant bios: www.members.re-wrenches.org
[RE-wrenches] 1,000 volt-rated connectors
Greetings Marco, It sounds like you are likely looking for a 1000V version of something like the Polaris insulated tap connectors and insulated multi cable connector blocks or the Burndy insulated multiple tap connectors (Unitap)... I believe these all are only 600V rated. There are still some gaps in the product offerings available for the 600V to 2kV PV balance of system needs. There are some products we may be tempted to use which may have a 1000V rating, but are only for 1000V use in sign and fixture circuits. Other items with sufficient voltage ratings may be designed for use in the generation and transmission segment of medium voltage work. Some of this gear will be made for isolation, not insulated and likely far from appropriate and workable for our needs. Depending on the types, gauges, and quantities of conductors you are working with as well as the required ampacity and intended installation location some of these products/links may be helpful: Erico/Pentair makes some useful options including 1000V AC/DC UL din rail mountable power distribution blocks. Some of these are being specifically marketed to the solar PV industry. https://www.erico.com/catalog/literature/P1215C-WWEN.pdf Mersen/Ferraz Shawmut offers some 1000V AC/DC power distribution blocks, some rated for fine strand conductors. http://ep-us.mersen.com/products/catalog/line/mpdb-series-ul-1953-open-style-power-distribution-blocks/ Marathon Special Products has a variety of offerings including 1500V AC/DC power distribution blocks and markets to the PV industry. http://www.marathonsp.com/index.php TE Connectivity/Raychem (Tyco) 1000V GTAP products http://www.te.com/usa-en/product-566427-000.html#guest-click Some Easy-Splice products are 1000V rated. (These look like the TE Connectivity GTAP products.) http://www.nsiindustries.com/catalog/nsiproducts/insulating-splicing-id-products-and-panel-channel/easy-splice™-gel-splicing-kits SolarBOS (http://www.solarbos.com/), Bentek (http://www.bentek.com/), and Shoals Technologies Group (http://shoals.com/) all offer 1000V PV wire connectors, "Y", "T", & "X" harnesses, and inline fuse holders. Depending on the specific circumstances of the project you may be able to use 1000V or 1500V PV lead branch connectors to make up the connection detail you are working on. Many of the PV lead connector manufacturers offer these to mate up with the commonly used connectors. I hope some of this information may be helpful. Let us know if you find 1000V rated insulated multi port tap/splice type connectors or anything else interesting and useful. Best regards, MATT Matthew Sirum P.O. Box 1227 Greenfield, MA 01302-1227 USA phone: +1.413.773.0611 email: matthewsi...@gmail.com -- Original Message Below -- [RE-wrenches] 1,000 volt-rated connectors Marco Mangelsdorf marco at pvthawaii.com Mon Sep 11 16:58:03 PDT 2017 Aloha. Does anyone know of any 1,000 volt-rated insulated connectors? I checked the Polaris line but they're only rated to 600V. Mahalo, marco provision_highres_solar_logo2 with C-26351 Marco Mangelsdorf, President 69 Railroad Avenue, A-7 Hilo, Hawai'i 96720 (808) 969-3281, 934-7462 facsimile <http://www.provisiontechnologies.com> www.provision-solar.com ___ List sponsored by Redwood Alliance List Address: RE-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org Change listserver email address & settings: http://lists.re-wrenches.org/options.cgi/re-wrenches-re-wrenches.org List-Archive: http://www.mail-archive.com/re-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org/maillist.html List rules & etiquette: www.re-wrenches.org/etiquette.htm Check out or update participant bios: www.members.re-wrenches.org
[RE-wrenches] ] Dusty off -grid conditions
Greetings William, Regarding a sealed charge controller; may the OutBack FLEXmax Extreme Charge Controller be an option?... Its spec sheet identifies it as being IP54 rated (dust protected) and there is an optional fan kit to help it run cooler. Just a thought, if they are still being produced and available. Best regards, MATT Matthew Sirum P.O. Box 1227 Greenfield, MA 01302-1227 USA phone: +1.413.773.0611 email: matthewsi...@gmail.com -- Original Message Below -- [RE-wrenches] ] Dusty off -grid conditions William Miller william at millersolar.com Tue Sep 5 08:35:33 PDT 2017 Friends: Thanks for the input on this topic. A few thoughts: 1. I could change the design from a vented 8k Radian to 4 sealed FX inverters. However the Outback charge controllers will still be vented. This makes me think the best plan is an actively vented cabinet. This cabinet has a fan with filtration: http://millersolar.com/MillerSolar/Portfolio/Commercial/Cal_Trans/Pase_2/Phase_B_Caboinet_2.jpg 2. We have tried in vain to keep rodents out of a building or even a room. Our best successes are in critter-proofing as small a space as possible. Attached is a photo of an Outback installation with screen wire to keep out wood rats that destroyed the previous installation by urinating on the SW circuit boards. William Lic 773985 millersolar.com 805-438-5600 ___ List sponsored by Redwood Alliance List Address: RE-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org Change listserver email address & settings: http://lists.re-wrenches.org/options.cgi/re-wrenches-re-wrenches.org List-Archive: http://www.mail-archive.com/re-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org/maillist.html List rules & etiquette: www.re-wrenches.org/etiquette.htm Check out or update participant bios: www.members.re-wrenches.org
[RE-wrenches] Over voltage error message
Greetings Drake, If this hasn't already been done; "Acknowledge" the Event (Fault) via the MATE3 in the Event History and the indicator light should switch "off", as long as the Event/Fault is not actively occurring. Hopefully it is as simple as this to calm the client's concern. Best of luck. Please let us know if you are able to learn any details about the cause of the issue. Best regards, MATT Matthew Sirum P.O. Box 1227 Greenfield, MA 01302-1227 USA phone: +1.413.773.0611 email: matthewsi...@gmail.com -- Original Message Below -- [RE-wrenches] Over voltage error message drake.chamberlin at redwoodalliance.org drake.chamberlin at redwoodalliance.org Tue Jul 18 16:12:20 PDT 2017 Hi Matt, There is no additional data monitoring. I haven't been able to make it out there yet to check the parameters. The main reason the client is so worried is that she got a message that I'm not familiar with that said something to the effect that the problem had to be solved before the event light could be turned off. I did not see this personally, and haven't encountered this message before. I will need to see if the manual can shed any light on how to turn off the light. . Thanks, Drake - Original Message - From: "RE-wrenches" To:"re-wrenches" Sent:Tue, 18 Jul 2017 05:56:15 -0400 Subject:[RE-wrenches] Over voltage error message Greetings Drake, This is interesting. I have Grid-tied OutBack Radian GS8048A with MidNite Classic 200 systems in the field, but don't believe I've seen this issue before. (But certainly have seen many strange MATE3 & OpticsRE issues) Here are a few questions that come to mind: What is the Radian "Sell" voltage set at? Has this setting been checked since this issue was reported? Have the Classic 200 settings been checked to make sure they are set where they should be? Does the system have any data monitoring on the charge controller and/or battery system independent of the Radian inverter? If so, any information similar to the Events logged on the MATE3? Does this system have the OutBack FLEXnet DC installed? There could be more data to review to try and get a sense of what the issue may be. (shunt data, historical VDC data, any battery charging via grid?) If the system has more than one Classic 200 are they connected and set up in "Follow Me" mode? Any chance the charge controller or inverter/charger tried to initiate an equalization charge? Does the system have any DC loads or generation sources (other than the charge controller and inverter/charger) connected directly to the battery system or anywhere on the DC bus? Best regards, MATT Matthew Sirum P.O. Box 1227 Greenfield, MA 01302-1227 USA phone: +1.413.773.0611 email: MatthewSirum at gmail.com -- Original Message Below -- [RE-wrenches] Over voltage error message Drake drake.chamberlin at redwoodalliance.org Mon Jul 17 05:36:46 PDT 2017 Hello Wrenches, My client reported seeing an overvoltage error message on her Mate 3 on a Radian system. The Radian is selling to the grid and is being fed by a Midnite Classic 200. It has shown two spikes so far, the last one going to 67 volts and lasting 1 second. The batteries are Concorde AGM, 305 AH. Does this momentary spike seem like a problem or a warning of problems to come? Thanks, Drake ___ List sponsored by Redwood Alliance List Address: RE-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org Change listserver email address & settings: http://lists.re-wrenches.org/options.cgi/re-wrenches-re-wrenches.org List-Archive: http://www.mail-archive.com/re-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org/maillist.html List rules & etiquette: www.re-wrenches.org/etiquette.htm Check out or update participant bios: www.members.re-wrenches.org
[RE-wrenches] Over voltage error message
Greetings Drake, This is interesting. I have Grid-tied OutBack Radian GS8048A with MidNite Classic 200 systems in the field, but don't believe I've seen this issue before. (But certainly have seen many strange MATE3 & OpticsRE issues) Here are a few questions that come to mind: What is the Radian "Sell" voltage set at? Has this setting been checked since this issue was reported? Have the Classic 200 settings been checked to make sure they are set where they should be? Does the system have any data monitoring on the charge controller and/or battery system independent of the Radian inverter? If so, any information similar to the Events logged on the MATE3? Does this system have the OutBack FLEXnet DC installed? There could be more data to review to try and get a sense of what the issue may be. (shunt data, historical VDC data, any battery charging via grid?) If the system has more than one Classic 200 are they connected and set up in "Follow Me" mode? Any chance the charge controller or inverter/charger tried to initiate an equalization charge? Does the system have any DC loads or generation sources (other than the charge controller and inverter/charger) connected directly to the battery system or anywhere on the DC bus? Best regards, MATT Matthew Sirum P.O. Box 1227 Greenfield, MA 01302-1227 USA phone: +1.413.773.0611 email: matthewsi...@gmail.com -- Original Message Below -- [RE-wrenches] Over voltage error message Drake drake.chamberlin at redwoodalliance.org Mon Jul 17 05:36:46 PDT 2017 Hello Wrenches, My client reported seeing an overvoltage error message on her Mate 3 on a Radian system. The Radian is selling to the grid and is being fed by a Midnite Classic 200. It has shown two spikes so far, the last one going to 67 volts and lasting 1 second. The batteries are Concorde AGM, 305 AH. Does this momentary spike seem like a problem or a warning of problems to come? Thanks, Drake ___ List sponsored by Redwood Alliance List Address: RE-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org Change listserver email address & settings: http://lists.re-wrenches.org/options.cgi/re-wrenches-re-wrenches.org List-Archive: http://www.mail-archive.com/re-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org/maillist.html List rules & etiquette: www.re-wrenches.org/etiquette.htm Check out or update participant bios: www.members.re-wrenches.org
[RE-wrenches] Generator choice for Sunny Island
Greetings August, Great thoughts and comments from Brian! I would also suggest speaking with the generator manufacturers' tech/engineering folks regarding the 120VAC configuration and to confirm 2-wire start set up once you have a brand and model or two in mind. Generator parts and service availability in the region of the project may also drive brand selection. If you need to maximize the inverter's battery charging capabilities (depending on battery system charging requirements) you may end up needing to look at generators in the 7.5 kW to 8.0 kW capacity range to allow for headroom in generator output loading. Also; I am curious how you arrived at an AC coupled design for this project. I do not know any of the details or specific projects goals you are working with, but I would potentially consider a DC coupled system design... DC/DC charge controller(s) would keep the battery system charged (and any DC loads operable) even if the Sunny Island and/or Sunny Boy(s) have a failure or is taken offline. If most of the AC loads are 120VAC I would consider keeping the inverter AC output circuit 120VAC and install a dedicated transformer solely for the 240VAC load Or perhaps consider a 120/240VAC inverter model. Depending on the overall situation a DC coupled system could be more resilient. The dedicated transformer for the 240VAC load could also potentially help make the system more robust. Also; I have spoken with a number of folks who have told me they wish the Sunny Island had more/better features for generator integration. I'd like to hear more from those who have plenty of experience designing and installing systems with Sunny Islands and generators to learn what the current thoughts and issues are. I hope some of these thoughts may be helpful. Best regards, ----MATT Matthew Sirum P.O. Box 1227 Greenfield, MA 01302-1227 USA phone: +1.413.773.0611 email: matthewsi...@gmail.com Original Message Below [RE-wrenches] Generator choice for Sunny Island August Goers august at luminalt.com Thu Jun 15 09:02:41 PDT 2017 Hi Wrenches, especially those of you who work on off-grid projects, We have an upcoming off-grid project where we will be powering a storage container with electronics in it. The loads are mostly 120 volt but there is a 240 volt heat pump that might occasionally run. We’re AC coupling the Sunny Island with a Sunny Boy PV inverter. So, we’ll be installing a Outback PSX-240 autoformer to bump the Sunny Island’s output from 120 to 240 volt. We need to select a generator for backup. We need a two-wire electric start (in order to be controlled by the Sunny Island) and preferably a generator that is okay just running 120 volt loads since the Sunny Islands input is only 120 volt. Something in the 3 kVA -7 kVA range should be fine. Does anyone have experience or ideas about what kind of two-wire start generator we might select? Thanks, August Luminalt ___ List sponsored by Redwood Alliance List Address: RE-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org Change listserver email address & settings: http://lists.re-wrenches.org/options.cgi/re-wrenches-re-wrenches.org List-Archive: http://www.mail-archive.com/re-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org/maillist.html List rules & etiquette: www.re-wrenches.org/etiquette.htm Check out or update participant bios: www.members.re-wrenches.org
[RE-wrenches] Third Radian ---> Class T Fuse With/Without Fuse Holder
Greetings William, Good point. This is something I always take into consideration. I have used Class T Fuses in many situations with and without their fuse holders. In the case of the installation shown in my custom DC Bus System pictures the wire/cable type and wire management avoid putting too much physical stress on the Class T Fuses. The #4 AWG conductors are supported from above and apply very little stress on the fuses they connect to. The 4/0 AWG cabling is Cobra X-Flex (fine stand, very flexible) and each of these conductors is secured a few inches from where they connect to their fuses. Care was taken in making up these connection and they were all carefully adjusted and inspected to ensure they would not stress the fuses. I feel really good about how it all came together. The same care and attention will be needed whenever these connections are serviced and the fasteners are torqued/tightened. When well planned and carefully assembled I do not have concern there will be any issues related to not using the fuse holder. I also think about this another way as well... Using the Class T Fuse Holder adds another 2 connections to the circuit. I try to remind myself that more connections can equal more chance of issues... Although, if a manufacturer of a Class T Fuse states the fuse holder must be used with their fuse there could be an NEC violation by not using it. One thing to note about the use of these fuses in this installation is that they are supplemental over current protection (OCP). Each positive (ungrounded) conductor connecting to this DC Bus System has a means of primary over current protection and disconnect on its opposite end. The battery systems, the charge controllers, and the inverter/chargers all have circuit breaker disconnects on their respective positive circuit conductors connecting to this DC Bus System. I have seen other folks build without having the needed appropriate means of disconnect and OCP; although most folk are probably more likely to include the primary OCP, but not consider the supplemental OCP. The supplemental OCP (Class T Fuses) provide protection in the event of a fault or short in a circuit between the Bus System and the other OCP at the other equipment. Like many folks I have installed and worked on battery systems where we install a Class T Fuse directly onto the positive terminal of the battery bank or via some form of busbar or connector etc. In these cases not only do we need to take care not to stress the fuse, but the fuse itself (and added busbar/connector etc) can act like a lever and along with the mating cable lug(s) create too much stress on the battery terminal... Potentially damaging the terminal, the inner battery connection to the terminal, and/or the seal between the battery case and the terminal. Carelessly tightening the hardware/fasteners to assemble these items to the battery terminal is a common way of inflicting damage on the battery as well. I know I have been involved in some service situations where there was more stress on the Class T Fuse than I would like to see, but as best I know there have not been any fuse failures because of it. Thanks for bringing up this question! Best regards, MATT Matthew Sirum P.O. Box 1227 Greenfield, MA 01302-1227 USA phone: +1.413.773.0611 email: matthewsi...@gmail.com Original Message Below [RE-wrenches] Third Radian William Miller william at millersolar.com Tue Apr 25 23:03:03 PDT 2017 Matt: I have a question for you: I have often considered mounting Class T fuses directly to a bus bar as you have done. Are you ever worried about physical strain on the fuse itself without a fuse holder? Thanks again for all of your input. William Miller Lic 773985 millersolar.com 805-438-5600 ___ List sponsored by Redwood Alliance List Address: RE-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org Change listserver email address & settings: http://lists.re-wrenches.org/options.cgi/re-wrenches-re-wrenches.org List-Archive: http://www.mail-archive.com/re-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org/maillist.html List rules & etiquette: www.re-wrenches.org/etiquette.htm Check out or update participant bios: www.members.re-wrenches.org
[RE-wrenches] Polaris gone bad?
Greetings All, I too have tried all of the methods discussed so far in this thread. With regard to multi port tap block type connectors, I have used the Burndy Unitap product the most and have had good results. I like that they come with anti-oxide compound already in them and that the set screws have hex/allen socket heads. I may have had one or two of the set screws strip or come misaligned from the factory over the years, but have not found any major failures or arcing/burning. Overall I've had a good experience with the Burndy Unitap. I have used the Ideal/Buchanan Splice Cap Crimp Connectors in some applications, but have not used them outdoors... I thought at one time I came across some literature for the nylon Splice Cap Insulators used on these which indicated there may be an environmental temperature rating related issue when considering them for PV install work. I'm looking for this spec now, but have not found it. All I find now regarding temperature is "Temperature Rating: 105° C (221°F)". Seems like using the Splice Cap Crimp Connectors with an appropriately rated quality heat shrink tubing product instead of the Splice Cap Insulator may also be a potential solution. I have used electrical rubber insulating tape, electrical silicone insulating tape, and electrical insulating mastic tapes to insulate and seal many various uninsulated connectors and etc too... Always with an application of quality electrical tape over them as well. USE-2/PV Wire with MC Connector connected to THWN-2 with MC Connector has worked well for me as well in a wire transition/junction box. The MC insulator boot sized for PV Wire may have been somewhat oversized for the THWN-2 conductor. It's always good to review the specs for the connector product and the specs for the wire to ensure all will be appropriately mated up in the field. I have used butt splice crimp connectors with integrated insulating shrink tubing such as the Molex Perma-Seal products. When used with the appropriate full cycle ratcheting crimping tool these make a very nice connection. Some of the butt splice connectors work well for transitioning from fine stranded wire to standard stranded THWN-2 conductors such as in the case of working with some of the micro inverter trunk cable systems etc. I always apply a second layer of quality heat shrink tubing over the connector and its integrated shrink. The use of these products and heat shrink tubing means bringing a cord and heat gun or torch to the array install area to seal the heat shrink. I prefer a heat gun for better control and a lesser likelihood of burning the connector, shrink, wire, or something or someone. Either way I can understand many folks may not want to be dealing with heat shrink products or having their install crews doing so, especially up on a pitched roof installation. Some of the Molex Perma-Seal butt splice products have a connector barrel made of tined copper and a 600V rating. Molex identifies some of these products for use in "consumer" and "industrial" applications. Some have CSA and UL "certification" on their respective spec sheets, but I have not researched the certifications by number to say for certain if use in a PV system wire transition box or junction box is a truly acceptable and compliant use for the product. Have any of you researched or worked with these Perma-Seal or similar products? I am interested to learn more and fully understand what their acceptable application are. Other companies such as 3M and Power Phase sell similar products, but often what I find are products intended for the automotive and marine industry. I absolutely do not want to be using or suggesting automotive and marine products for use in professional, code compliant residential and commercial electrical work. Link to Molex Perma-Seal Products: http://www.molex.com/molex/products/family?key=heat_sealable_terminals&channel=products&chanName=family&pageTitle=Introduction&parentKey=solderless_terminals&utm_source=ds&utm_medium=lit&utm_campaign=ipd Also; glad to see drain/weep holes mentioned too! Even if water is not getting in to the box/enclosure/body we want to make sure any condensation that develops can drain out. About 10-12 years ago I had a project with a large outdoor wireway/trough/gutter which would hold small amounts of water even though a number of drain/weep holes were drilled in its bottom side... A seasoned and friendly Electrical Inspector showed me how to make "wicks" out of single strands of wire... Coiled the single strand flat to lay on the bottom inside of the trough with a straight section of the single strand going through a weep hole to draw any water out. I put a few of these in the trough... It looked a bit funky but it seemed to help. Best regards, MATT Matthew Sirum P.O. Box 1227 Greenfield, MA 01302-1227 USA phone: +1.41
[RE-wrenches] Using same PV array for water pump, battery charging
Greetings Larry, I can think of a number of ways this may be done. Not knowing the details of the existing system configuration, if the switching needs to be manual or automatic, what (if any) cycle of the NEC is in effect at the project location, and if the PV array is ground mounted or mounted on a building I do not know what design thoughts/suggestions may be most appropriate and helpful. If I understand the general goal and manual operation is acceptable this could be as simple as installing an appropriately rated double-throw switch (on-off-on switch) or transfer switch into the PV output circuit between the array and the charge controller. The PV output circuit would be the feed to the switch and the charge controller and pump would be the selectable loads. Some details to consider for this would include; if the double-throw switch or transfer switch is load break rated or not, where the array over current protection device(s) (OCPDs) and disconnect(s) are located, where the charge controller input disconnect is located, and if and how this configuration impacts any GFDI (Ground-Fault Detector Interrupter) and AFCI (Arc-Fault Circuit Interrupter) protection provided by the charge controller or other components in the system. Proper labeling and signage for sequence, operation, safety, and applicable NEC requirements will need to be considered as well. I installed some double-throw switches manufactured by Eaton not too long ago. I believe they were 250VDC rated. If you are interested in looking into double-throw switches you may want to call the folks at the Eaton Flex Center (1-888-329-9272) to get assistance with specifying an appropriate double-throw switch. Circuit breaker type bypass assemblies and transfer switches are available and may be less expensive than a double-throw switch, but these may not be readily available with the DC rating this project requires and most I have seen are only rated for indoor installation. I am not sure if you will be looking for a solution which will be installed indoors or outdoors, but this is a detail to consider. If you are looking for an automatic or semiautomatic solution I believe the Magnum PT-100 charge controller does have an auxiliary relay which can be triggered based on battery system voltage. I have not worked with the PT-100, but it is my understanding it needs to be networked with a Magnum remote control to use the auxiliary relay based on battery voltage. This auxiliary relay could signal an automatic transfer switch system or contactors to perform the needed switching. Also; I believe Morningstar has a DC transfer switch for use with their 600VDC TriStar charge controller... I do not know if they may offer this as a separate item, but you may want to reach out for them to inquire as well. Learning the details about the switch they use in their product and sourcing it as a separate item could provide you with a solution you custom build to suit the project. I hope you may find some of these thoughts helpful. Please let us know how you proceed and how it all works out. Best regards, MATT Matthew Sirum P.O. Box 1227 Greenfield, MA 01302-1227 USA phone: +1.413.773.0611 email: matthewsi...@gmail.com -- Original Message Below -- [RE-wrenches] Using same PV array for water pump, battery charging Starlight Solar Power Systems larry at starlightsolar.com Thu Feb 16 14:24:44 PST 2017 Hello Wrenches, A customer has 3250 Watt PV array @ 139Voc. The PV controller is Magnum PT100. He wants to install a Grundfos SQFlex pump and be able to switch the DC from the PV controller to run the pump directly. He would like to switch midday after the battery (48V) is at a high SoC. I’m looking for a switching arrangement to do this without arcing since it will be used a few times each week. Any have a recommendation? Thank you, Larry Crutcher Starlight Solar Power Systems ___ List sponsored by Redwood Alliance List Address: RE-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org Change listserver email address & settings: http://lists.re-wrenches.org/options.cgi/re-wrenches-re-wrenches.org List-Archive: http://www.mail-archive.com/re-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org/maillist.html List rules & etiquette: www.re-wrenches.org/etiquette.htm Check out or update participant bios: www.members.re-wrenches.org
[RE-wrenches] Power Quality Test
Greetings Corey, I do not have experience with the specific devices referenced in the contract language you have cited, but can offer the names of a couple other manufacturers who make power quality (PQ) analyzers and loggers/recorders. Here are three: Power Monitors, Inc. (PMI), Virginia, USA Radian Research, Inc., Indiana & Mississippi, USA AEMC Instruments (Chauvin Arnoux), New Hampshire, USA These companies produce gear which many utilities and line contractor firms use in their PQ testing programs. I have worked with some of the gear from PMI and Radian Research, but probably not their latest models. If it is unlikely that your company would have an ongoing need for a PQ logger it may consider hiring a local/regional PQ test company/contractor (or appropriately equipped engineering firm) to fulfill this requirement in the contract you have mentioned. They could potentially perform the testing, review the logged data, and prepare a report for less than what a new PQ analyzer logger unit and software would cost your company. If your company does purchase new gear some manufacturers or their regional representative may come out and train/assist/demo the unit with your technician/team. SEI Professional Services may be of help on this issue too. They have members on the RE-wrenches list as well. On larger or complex projects I like the practice of PQ testing and data logging at a project site before the system installation as well as during commissioning activities. The pre-install data can be helpful in seeing potential PQ issues before work begins. The pre-install data can also be used later for comparative purposes if there is any concern or dispute regarding PQ issues recognized post install. Best regards, MATT Matthew Sirum P.O. Box 1227 Greenfield, MA 01302-1227 USA phone: +1.413.773.0611 email: matthewsi...@gmail.com Original Message Below [RE-wrenches] Power Quality Test Corey Shalanski corey at joule-energy.com Tue Jan 3 11:09:50 PST 2017 The contract for one of our upcoming utility-scale projects includes a requirement for recording/analyzing power quality: "Submit a report that includes AC voltage, current, impedance, frequency, the maximum and minimum of ranges continuously during the 72 hour period with intentional and daily start up and shut down trials. Devices such as a Candura Power Pro or Power Site can be used to analyze power." Does anyone have experience with either of these devices and can comment on their use? Or else can you recommend a similar device that will fulfill these requirements? Corey Shalanski Joule Energy New Orleans, LA ___ List sponsored by Redwood Alliance List Address: RE-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org Change listserver email address & settings: http://lists.re-wrenches.org/options.cgi/re-wrenches-re-wrenches.org List-Archive: http://www.mail-archive.com/re-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org/maillist.html List rules & etiquette: www.re-wrenches.org/etiquette.htm Check out or update participant bios: www.members.re-wrenches.org
[RE-wrenches] Generac EcoGen 6
Greetings Dave, Which Generac controller is on this 6kW EcoGen? Some of the Generac controller instructions I have seen state that once the controller control panel fuse is removed and/or the connections to the starting battery are disconnected the exercise programming will need to be re-entered. If you have not already done so, you may want to check the controller programing and specifically the exercise feature programming. I'm wondering if this may be causing the issue you are observing. Date and time may need to be set for the controller as well. I believe the EcoGen models may come from the factory ready for 2-wire start, so hopefully the start feature programing does not need to be re-entered as well. The appropriate Generac controller instructions for the controller model you are working with should provide the password and lead you through the necessary steps. I also like the suggestions of checking the 2-wire start circuit conductors. I would remove these 2 wires from their connections at the generator and see if the issue persists. Best of luck. Let us know how this issue works out. Best regards, MATT Matthew Sirum P.O. Box 1227 Greenfield, MA 01302-1227 USA phone: +1.413.773.0611 email: matthewsi...@gmail.com Original Message Bellow [RE-wrenches] Generac EcoGen 6 Dave Palumbo palumbo131m at gmail.com Fri Dec 30 06:14:48 PST 2016 Wrenches, I have a 6 kW Generac EcoGen (1,300 hrs on it) with a new problem. . After swapping in a new battery the other day the generator now starts and runs when its start switch is positioned to Auto. . The OutBack inverter w Mate2 is not calling for an auto start. . Even when the EcoGen is disconnected from the off grid house it still starts and runs every time the start switch is set to Auto. How do I clear this problem and get this gen back to normal? Thanks and Happy New Year, Dave David Palumbo Independent Power LLC 462 Solar Way Drive Hyde Park, VT 05655 802-371-8678 cell 802-888-4917 home ___ List sponsored by Redwood Alliance List Address: RE-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org Change listserver email address & settings: http://lists.re-wrenches.org/options.cgi/re-wrenches-re-wrenches.org List-Archive: http://www.mail-archive.com/re-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org/maillist.html List rules & etiquette: www.re-wrenches.org/etiquette.htm Check out or update participant bios: www.members.re-wrenches.org
[RE-wrenches] Retaining Clips
Greetings Adam, Here are a couple/few thoughts which may be helpful. Not knowing the specific circumstance(s) or goal(s) these may or may not be appropriate or useful. Use the 4-8 circuit load center you mentioned with the appropriate circuit breaker and retainer clip and do not twist out the unneeded spaces in the dead front or fill them with the appropriate blanks. Clearly label the load center accordingly and be sure to mark if no other circuits should be installed in it etc. Main Circuit Breaker Disconnect / Circuit Breaker Disconnect: Usually not too difficult to source 60A, 100A, or 125A 120/240VAC double pole main CB disconnects. Install the appropriate 60A CB you need. Confirm the design of specific item you are looking at or ordering meets the retained/fastened in place circuit breaker requirement. Some designed for the HVACR trade for example may not have the ability to retain/fasten the circuit breaker in place. Also; be sure item has the appropriate isolated or bonded Neutral terminal to meet your needs, as well as the equipment grounding lug/terminal. Disconnect may be designed for use as service equipment and these may be separate part numbers and/or disconnect may be field convertible. If acceptable for the project, use a suitable fused disconnect switch with the required 60A fuses. Wire line and load sides of switch accordingly for the circumstances at hand and to meet code and be sure to label clearly identifying purpose and the hazards of the switch as installed. Comment above regarding Neutral and EGC terminals apply here as well. May need to order separately. An appropriately rated panel mount double pole circuit breaker installed in a small panel mount type enclosure may be an option as well to meet your requirement. This may be a good option especially if you need a solution which will take up as little space as possible. MidNite Solar may have an appropriate enclosure/box. The appropriate double pole circuit breaker may need to be researched with CBI-electric North America or Safe Circuits, Inc. in Pennsylvania. I have dealt with this issue in various circumstances before, such as needing to install backfed circuit breakers. I do not recall the specific brands and part numbers used, but the major US market manufacturers should have a solution to meet your needs. Hopefully your local electrical supply company can come up with a solution for you, but if still in need I suggest calling Schneider/Square D, Eaton/Cutler-Hammer, or Siemens etc. Third party retainers may also be available which could work with a load center and circuit breaker you may already have, but be aware your local AHJ may not allow a retainer which is not listed/recognized for use with the load center and circuit breaker. Also; we need to remember that in the case of backfeeding a circuit breaker we must make certain it is rated for backfeed, not marked "Line" and "Load". I hope that I understood your question correctly and that some of these thoughts may be helpful. Best regards, ----MATT Matthew Sirum P.O. Box 1227 Greenfield, MA 01302-1227 USA phone: +1.413.773.0611 email: matthewsi...@gmail.com -- Original Message Below -- [RE-wrenches] Retaining Clips AE Solar autonomousenergies at gmail.com Tue Nov 29 19:14:45 PST 2016 Wrenchers, I’m trying to find a 60A 2 Pole Breaker Box that has a compatible retaining clip. The QO retaining clip (PK2MBCP) seems to only be compatible with their 4-8 circuit load centers. What are my options? Thanks! Thanks Adam ___ List sponsored by Redwood Alliance List Address: RE-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org Change listserver email address & settings: http://lists.re-wrenches.org/options.cgi/re-wrenches-re-wrenches.org List-Archive: http://www.mail-archive.com/re-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org/maillist.html List rules & etiquette: www.re-wrenches.org/etiquette.htm Check out or update participant bios: www.members.re-wrenches.org
[RE-wrenches] SMA Arc-Fault
Greetings Dave, Have you considered possibly installing a hybrid type transient voltage surge suppressor (TVSS), to include filters to remove high frequency EMI/RFI? Or possible a straight line filter device? If this nuisance arc fault issue is still occurring and it may be related to an AC issue you may be able to get some technical help and advice from an engineer at one of the TVSS manufacturers such as Total Protection Solutions, Richmond, VA 800.647.1911 or Surge Suppression Incorporated, Destin, FL 888.987.8877. I would also recommend reaching out for an application engineer in the SPD division at Eaton. Eaton Technical Resource Center 800.809.2772. SSI also has a very experienced field troubleshooting technician they send all around the country to help contractors with difficult electrical issues... Of course that would probably cost $1000-$2000 per day. I avoid using piercing taps and connectors. I prefer to use service entrance tap boxes, insulated multi port connectors, or line side rated power distribution blocks. I cannot help but wonder if there may be an actual arc event occurring at one or more of the piercing taps which is somehow picked up by the DC AFCI. In commissioning this system it would be a good idea to use a non-contact IR thermometer and/or thermal imaging camera/scope to check the piercing taps for excessive heating while the conductors are energized and carrying peak currents. I hope you are successful in resolving this issue soon. I will continue to follow the thread. Hopefully we can all learn something from this. Best regards, MATT Matthew Sirum P.O. Box 1227 Greenfield, MA 01302-1227 USA phone: +1.413.773.0611 email: matthewsi...@gmail.com ___ List sponsored by Redwood Alliance List Address: RE-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org Change listserver email address & settings: http://lists.re-wrenches.org/options.cgi/re-wrenches-re-wrenches.org List-Archive: http://www.mail-archive.com/re-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org/maillist.html List rules & etiquette: www.re-wrenches.org/etiquette.htm Check out or update participant bios: www.members.re-wrenches.org
[RE-wrenches] LG MonoX NeON LG305N1C-B3 Modules Needed
Greetings All, I am in search of LG MonoX NeON LG305N1C-B3 PV modules. I need a few extra modules for a current project in the US. Please email me off list if you know of where I may find some in stock. Thank you. Best regards, MATT Matthew Sirum P.O. Box 1227 Greenfield, MA 01302-1227 USA phone: +1.413.773.0611 email: matthewsi...@gmail.com ___ List sponsored by Redwood Alliance List Address: RE-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org Change listserver email address & settings: http://lists.re-wrenches.org/options.cgi/re-wrenches-re-wrenches.org List-Archive: http://www.mail-archive.com/re-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org/maillist.html List rules & etiquette: www.re-wrenches.org/etiquette.htm Check out or update participant bios: www.members.re-wrenches.org
Re: [RE-wrenches] Back-up generator/inverter shut-down relay
Greetings Benn, There may be another option which would avoid extra controls/devices. The point of interconnection of the inverter output circuits could be a supply side connection; the inverter outputs could be combined and interconnected between the service point/utility meter and the utility supply connection to the automatic transfer switch. This may be an installation option to consider if allowed in the jurisdiction where your project is located and if practical given the existing electrical work and nature of the site/building. Best regards, MATT Matthew Sirum P.O. Box 1227 Greenfield, MA 01302-1227 USA phone: +1.413.773.0611 email: matthewsi...@gmail.com Date: Thu, 8 Sep 2016 11:00:09 -0600 From: Benn Kilburn To: RE-wrenches Subject: [RE-wrenches] Back-up generator/inverter shut-down relay Wrenches, We are installing 2 SolarEdge SE7600A-US inverters in a grid-tied system that has a 15kw back-up generator on an auto transfer switch. The generator is located in a shed about 300' or more away and the feeders to the house are underground. Inverters are located in the house basement mechanial room along with the house electrical panelboard. We are looking for relay options to shut down the inverters when there is a power interruption, before the generator kicks in. This could be a manual reset. What are some options you have seen/used for something like this? Thanks, *Benn Kilburn * CSA Certified Solar Photovoltaic Systems Electrician, SkyFire Energy Inc 14515 ? 121A Ave NW | Edmonton, AB | T5L 2T2 P: 780-474-8992 | F: 888-405-5843 | www.skyfireenergy.com ___ List sponsored by Redwood Alliance List Address: RE-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org Change listserver email address & settings: http://lists.re-wrenches.org/options.cgi/re-wrenches-re-wrenches.org List-Archive: http://www.mail-archive.com/re-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org/maillist.html List rules & etiquette: www.re-wrenches.org/etiquette.htm Check out or update participant bios: www.members.re-wrenches.org
Re: [RE-wrenches] Troubleshooting Stumper - Homerun Interference in Conduit/Inverter Turning Off/On Rapidly
Greetings Matt, I like the troubleshooting thoughts others have given. If all else leaves you with the issue persisting I would also consider checking for current on the grounding system and on bonded conductive materials/items on the property. It may be helpful to see if there is any current on the Equipment Grounding Conductors, Grounding Electrode Conductor(s), metallic conduits & raceways, PV mounting system, and etc. If the inverter in this system has an AC Neutral connection intended only for instrumentation and L1 & L2 voltage reference it would be interesting to measure the actual current on it. It is good you have a similar system installed next door, you may need to compare test measurements and readings. If you run out of tests and troubleshooting ideas it may be helpful to open (turn off) all the circuits in the house/on the service and see how the PV system performs while being the only item connected to the service. The "smart" modules/optimizers may be making system troubleshooting more challenging. I wonder what Trina & Tigo has/can offer(ed) to assist with troubleshooting?... and if there is an approved/safe megger (insulation resistance) test for these modules? This is an interesting case. I'll be continuing to follow the thread. I hope we can all learn something from this. Best regards, MATT Matthew Sirum P.O. Box 1227 Greenfield, MA 01302-1227 USA phone: +1.413.773.0611 email: matthewsi...@gmail.com Date: Wed, 7 Sep 2016 17:45:32 -0400 From: "Matt Partymiller" To: re-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org Subject: [RE-wrenches] Troubleshooting Stumper - Homerun Interference in Conduit/Inverter Turning Off/On Rapidly Wrenches, One of our systems is having an issue I have not encountered before where the inverter switches between nighttime mode and interconnection every few seconds. I am hoping for some technical wisdom from the community. We have an array of 20 TrinaSmart modules in two strings of 10. The array is connected to a Solectria 3.8 kW inverter. The conduit run is simple, all four homerun wires (#10 PVwire) in 1" EMT down to the proximity of the Solectria inverter where the conduit switches to 1" LFMC before entering the inverter. The run is about 20', straight down the side of the wall before hitting the inverter. A 600V jacketed communications wire was also in the conduit but has since been removed and run separately. Our inverter is starting up, running for a few seconds, giving a low voltage error, briefly showing nighttime mode, then going into startup mode again. Solectria was gracious enough to send us a new inverter but we have the exact same issue. They tell us their error codes (266, 274) indicate 0 volts. The transition between low voltage error and startup is almost instant. Basically we have 20 seconds of start up, 5 seconds of run, 5 seconds of error then repeat. This is not a grid problem, the identical system next door works fine. In the process of troubleshooting, our technician pulled all four homerun wires out of our conduit and meggered them. They all tested fine so he connected to the inverter. The inverter worked fine. The technician verified grounding of the array and conduit, pulled new homeruns back through the conduit, and reconnected to the inverter. He had the same error as before. He connected each string separately to the inverter by removing the string fuses. Either string will operate fine independently. With string one in conduit and either homerun of string two in conduit (but not both) the inverter operates fine. With string two in conduit but string one outside of conduit, the inverter does not operate. I was certain the error had something to do with homerun roof wiring so I went out with the technician and removed and checked pretty much every module. Everything appears fine, all connections solid, all homeruns have been remade at least once at this point. Now I am stumped and lack the technical knowledge to diagnose the problem. I would be extremely grateful if an esteemed wrench can provide technical support/advice. Thanks, Matt Matthew Partymiller Solar Energy Solutions LLC (877) 312-7456 m...@solar-energy-solutions.com ___ List sponsored by Redwood Alliance List Address: RE-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org Change listserver email address & settings: http://lists.re-wrenches.org/options.cgi/re-wrenches-re-wrenches.org List-Archive: http://www.mail-archive.com/re-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org/maillist.html List rules & etiquette: www.re-wrenches.org/etiquette.htm Check out or update participant bios: www.members.re-wrenches.org
Re: [RE-wrenches] Grid tie with dump load?
Greetings Kris, I am curious as to what the utility metering/accounting mechanism is in the territory serving your client; Net Energy Metering, Sell All, or ??? And what value is given/paid for excess kWh generation exported to the grid? What is the clients goal(s) in considering a grid-tie PV system? As utility interconnection rules, grid standards, and tariffs evolve we may all be dealing with these questions differently than we had before. Best regards, MATT Matthew Sirum P.O. Box 1227 Greenfield, MA 01302-1227 USA phone: +1.413.773.0611 email: matthewsi...@gmail.com ___ List sponsored by Redwood Alliance List Address: RE-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org Change listserver email address & settings: http://lists.re-wrenches.org/options.cgi/re-wrenches-re-wrenches.org List-Archive: http://www.mail-archive.com/re-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org/maillist.html List rules & etiquette: www.re-wrenches.org/etiquette.htm Check out or update participant bios: www.members.re-wrenches.org
Re: [RE-wrenches] Test procedure for Concorde batteries
st 4 as a single series string; so the system owner has some backup capacity while they consider total battery system replacement. I hope these thoughts may be helpful. Best regards, MATT Matthew Sirum P.O. Box 1227 Greenfield, MA 01302-1227 USA phone: +1.413.773.0611 email: matthewsi...@gmail.com Date: Thu, 1 Sep 2016 12:51:46 + From: Gary Bassett To: "RE-wrenches (re-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org)" Subject: [RE-wrenches] Test procedure for Concorde batteries Message-ID: <4c9022358cd54ad38ff888fd1101fad5@Hosted-MS-3.elcomp.local> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" We have a grid tied battery backup system that uses 8 Sun Xtender PVX-2120L batteries, about 9 years old. The grid has been going out frequently - about 4 times in the past 3 weeks. When the grid goes out, the battery voltage gets too low and shuts the system down pretty quickly. One of the times, this happened within 4 hours. We want to test the capacity of the batteries and we have a testing procedure from Concorde that seems like it would take a lot of time. Is there a quick way to test the battery capacity? Gary Date: Thu, 1 Sep 2016 09:31:58 -0400 From: John Blittersdorf To: RE-wrenches Subject: Re: [RE-wrenches] Test procedure for Concorde batteries Gary, I have just two methods I use to test all batteries. I do a voltage check of each battery under load with solar input shut off. You will quickly find a battery with a bad cell or two. It is best to do this test when the batteries are already somewhat discharged to see clearer results. When under charge, and even floating or with a light load, a battery with bad cells can look OK in the voltage check. Bad cells can show up as down about 1.5 to 2 volts for each bad cell from normal. I have also seen batteries that not only dropped in voltage but actually changed polarity. Had a 6volt L16 read -2 VDC. Thatdropped the string by 8 volts!!! Typically bad cell problems will show up after some discharge and if a single string, the string voltage suddenly drops down. In parallel strings the numbers get really random but other batteries in same string will rise high to compensate for the low battery. I have seen a 6 volt go to +9 volts and was boiling violently. (hence why multiple strings are not the best design). If the above checks are OK, batteries still appearing to be weak have reached the twilight of their lives and a plan is needed to retire them. 9 years seems about right from my experience to see serious decline in output. The other quick test for parallel string batteries is to use the DC clamp meter to check each string as being roughly equal in current under load or under full charge rate. This will find bad cells, different aged batteries, and /or bad connections. When you lose a string, that will definitely reduce the coasting time. I don't check specific gravity for two reasons. It is time consuming and moving acid around is not good in my book. I have found individual batteries with low specific gravity readings that went on to work OK for many years, If the batteries pass my voltage and current checks, I call them good to go. John Blittersdorf Solar Guru Rob Stubbins Solar (division of Rob Stubbins Electrical and General Contractors) 280 Quality Lane Rutland, VT 05701 802-775-1484 ext 512 Date: Thu, 1 Sep 2016 09:43:53 -0400 From: Tump To: RE-wrenches Subject: Re: [RE-wrenches] Test procedure for Concorde batteries Gary I would suggest that the battery manufacture?s recommended method is followed. Yeah it IS time consuming BUT? Checking w/ a clamp on during a charge or discharge depending on the # of strings &/or the way the strings are configured will be misleading. Your customer is paying by the hour and a the choice is theirs replace OR pay your tech to watch the voltage/current over the manu?s discharge time. These batteries can be run thru an equalization cycle, following the guide lines recommended by Concord, then do your load test. Full charge to discharge over time IS the only way. ___ List sponsored by Redwood Alliance List Address: RE-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org Change listserver email address & settings: http://lists.re-wrenches.org/options.cgi/re-wrenches-re-wrenches.org List-Archive: http://www.mail-archive.com/re-wrenches@lists.re-wrenches.org/maillist.html List rules & etiquette: www.re-wrenches.org/etiquette.htm Check out or update participant bios: www.members.re-wrenches.org
