Re: [Repeater-Builder] Tower Installation
Try this site: http://www.wb0w.com/Rohn/foundation.htm Chris WilkieW1LKE YAHOO! GROUPS LINKS Visit your group "Repeater-Builder" on the web. To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Tower Installation
Be careful of any wording that may require you to remove the tower when you leave. Doing what you plan below may take some expensive equipment to remove. 73, Joe, K1ike At 12:40 AM 12/27/2005 -0700, you wrote: I think I want to sink/install the first five foot section of the tower into the ground, use rebar for added support and firmness, pour cement to fill the hole at the base of a five foot section of the tower, then secure the upper section to the eave of the house with steel brackets [that I may have to have formed and bent to the right config]. Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Tower Installation
Doug tobad you are not closer to Yuuma Az I would give you some 1/2 inch and 3/8 inch rebar that I have left over from installing the Rhon 25 here. Just remember that the spec sheets from Rhon are the basic and adequate for install at minimum standards.Mine will be guided no CC7R's here. I have the whole rhon package here and can email the manual to you if you wish. Good LuckRev Robert KE8DMDoug Fitts W7FDF [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: My last posting for 2005 with a question:My home owners association with their CCR's and other regs [here in my community of Vail, Arizona] has "seen the light" regarding new FCC legislation on antenna and tower installation parameters and height restrictions. They [the association] recently sent me a monthly Newsletter [December issue] which specifically acknowledges word for word, that the "Federal Communications Commission [FCC] passed legislation that prohibits associations from restricting individual members from receiving adequate transmission signals".Yes, I did after reading this fired off an email to the manager of the association [this morning] asking that they send me what is called an Architectural Improvement form so I can submit my "project"...to install a 30 foot Rohn tower for my 900 mhz antenna system and other antennas related to repeater/remotebase and other link systems [a.k.a, antenna farm on a tower].My question on a typical tower installation and please keep in mind...I have no experience in this area other then as a "helper" with other installations years ago.Can someone direct me to a website or specifically explain how best to "lay the foundation" to install a 30 foot Rohn tower without guy wires. Yes, I plan, once I purchase the tower sections [working on that with a local Ham] to secure the second bottom section to the eave of the house. In short, I think I want to sink/install the first five foot section of the tower into the ground, use rebar for added support and firmness, pour cement to "fill the hole" at the base of a five foot section of the tower, then secure the upper section to the eave of the house with steel brackets [that I may have to have formed and bent to the right config].I am new at this so any and all suggestions on/from this list would be appreciated so very much. This will be my new 900 mhz repeater and remotebase project for 2006!! The wife and I have been living in our new home now 15 months and I really desire to install a quality antenna system for the three repeaters I currently operate and maintain.So please comment/send thoughts and suggestions on your own experiences with tower installatons. I am looking forward to "getting my hands dirty", digging the hole for the tower and rebar and pouring the cement...and at age 62, I NEED the exercise!!Best 73 and **Happy Holidays**Doug Fitts W7FDFVail, Arizona U.S.A.Cienega Radio Network927.8500/R449.925/R448.250/RIRLP node 3850Echolink 47474Yahoo! Groups Links* To visit your group on the web, go to:http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/* To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:[EMAIL PROTECTED]* Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to:http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/ Yahoo! for Good - Make a difference this year. YAHOO! GROUPS LINKS Visit your group "Repeater-Builder" on the web. To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.
[Repeater-Builder] Re: Tower Installation
Hi, Doug and all, I think you are confusing a couple of FCC rules, and may be misinterpreting your HOA's letter (at least as much as you quoted). There are NO FCC rules or Congressional legislation requiring HOA's to permit ham radio towers and antennas if the CCR's restrict them. There are two FCC rules in play here, and neither does what you want: One is PRB-1, which requires governments (cities, counties, states) to accommodate ham antennas to some extent. This does NOT apply to HOA's and CCR's, which are private contracts between you and the seller/HOA. The other is the FCC OTARD rule that preempts HOA restrictions on certain small broadcast TV and data receiving antennas and satellite dishes. This does NOT apply to amateur radio antennas. Details here: http://www.fcc.gov/mb/facts/otard.html The ARRL has lobbied the FCC to extend PRB-1 coverage to HOA's and CCR's, and the FCC has specifically refused to do that, saying that if Congress intends that, they'll need to legislate it and the FCC will respond. The ARRL has gotten a bill before Congress to do that thanks to some friendly Congressmen. Chances of passage are (or zero, according to some). If your HOA really is confused about the matter, perhaps that's good for you. But YOU shouldn't be confused. Before you spend a lot on a tower, you might have a lawyer figure out how to lock in their permission, lest they discover their error one day and give you grief. If they aren't confused, and you are trying to twist the OTARD rule to cover a ham antenna, you better have a very good lawyer fighting for you. And just to be complete, the FCC doesn't pass laws or legislation. The FCC makes rules, based on legislation passed by Congress. 73, Gary KN4AQ At 02:40 AM 12/27/2005, Doug Fitts W7FDF [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: My last posting for 2005 with a question: My home owners association with their CCR's and other regs [here in my community of Vail, Arizona] has seen the light regarding new FCC legislation on antenna and tower installation parameters and height restrictions. They [the association] recently sent me a monthly Newsletter [December issue] which specifically acknowledges word for word, that the Federal Communications Commission [FCC] passed legislation that prohibits associations from restricting individual members from receiving adequate transmission signals. Doug Fitts W7FDF Vail, Arizona U.S.A. Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Tower Installation
Doug,Try this link: http://www.rohnindustries.com/ROHNNET/rohnnet2004/html2004/index.htmlThen click on "On-Line Catalog" on the left side of the page. This will open a PDF screen on the page. Choose the "GT Series" towers, then "25G", and finally "Foundation Details". You can print these out if you need the "engineering diagrams" from Rohn for your project. Also - you might want to bookmark this link - it does not show up readily with a Google search... :-)FWIW, I have a 60' Rohn 25G, set 4' in the ground and bracketed to my house at 28'. (By design, the overall height is 56' above ground.) I then have a 10' mast, with 6' above the crown of the tower, and a Diamond X500NA to the top of that, and - until recently - a Winegard super fringe TV antenna just below that. I also have three other antennas side-mounted about 20' down the tower. This towerhas survived 18 years now in northern Illinois, and recently only required that some of the mounting bolts be replaced due to tower movement wear on the bolts themselves - something that I'm told is a fairly common issue. Once the bolts were replaced, the tower was again strong and secure. A 30' tower will surely serve you very well, especially if you decide to bracket that to your house.As some have suggested, make certain that you get your approval in writing before constructing your tower.Good luck on your poroject.73 de Mark - N9WYS Doug Fitts W7FDF [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: My last posting for 2005 with a question:My home owners association with their CCR's and other regs [here in my community of Vail, Arizona] has "seen the light" regarding new FCC legislation on antenna and tower installation parameters and height restrictions. They [the association] recently sent me a monthly Newsletter [December issue] which specifically acknowledges word for word, that the "Federal Communications Commission [FCC] passed legislation that prohibits associations from restricting individual members from receiving adequate transmission signals".Yes, I did after reading this fired off an email to the manager of the association [this morning] asking that they send me what is called an Architectural Improvement form so I can submit my "project"...to install a 30 foot Rohn tower for my 900 mhz antenna system and other antennas related to repeater/remotebase and other link systems [a.k.a, antenna farm on a tower].My question on a typical tower installation and please keep in mind...I have no experience in this area other then as a "helper" with other installations years ago.Can someone direct me to a website or specifically explain how best to "lay the foundation" to install a 30 foot Rohn tower without guy wires. Yes, I plan, once I purchase the tower sections [working on that with a local Ham] to secure the second bottom section to the eave of the house. In short, I think I want to sink/install the first five foot section of the tower into the ground, use rebar for added support and firmness, pour cement to "fill the hole" at the base of a five foot section of the tower, then secure the upper section to the eave of the house with steel brackets [that I may have to have formed and bent to the right config].I am new at this so any and all suggestions on/from this list would be appreciated so very much. This will be my new 900 mhz repeater and remotebase project for 2006!! The wife and I have been living in our new home now 15 months and I really desire to install a quality antenna system for the three repeaters I currently operate and maintain.So please comment/send thoughts and suggestions on your own experiences with tower installatons. I am looking forward to "getting my hands dirty", digging the hole for the tower and rebar and pouring the cement...and at age 62, I NEED the exercise!!Best 73 and **Happy Holidays**Doug Fitts W7FDFVail, Arizona U.S.A.Cienega Radio Network927.8500/R449.925/R448.250/RIRLP node 3850Echolink 47474 YAHOO! GROUPS LINKS Visit your group "Repeater-Builder" on the web. To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.
[Repeater-Builder] Re: Motorola HLD 4051A / 4052A and TRN 5080A
No problama Mike... If it would do you any good... I have some really nice close-up pictures of the original Motorhead (motorola) preamp board, which might be hand to view if you were going to make or adapt a board in. It's almost such an easy board to make, you could pretty much clone it. cheers, skipp Michael Haddix [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Thanks for the info, Skipp, took a look and think I got Micor Test Set wired up to work, just haven't tried it yet. I'm thinking of trying to adapt the little 2mtr preamp kit that Ramsey Electronics is selling. It strangely enough is almost of identical circuitry when compared to the MSR preamp schematic(wonder how that happened!!??). Looks as though, one would only need to adapt a socket to fit the MSR board and cross-wire it accordingly. It's about the same size as the MSR preamp and looks as though it will fit in the filter hole without too much trouble also. Anyway, thanks a bunch for the info and help. Mike n9wzx Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Motorola HLD 4051A / 4052A and TRN 5080A
Thanks, Skipp, I have the manual on the MSR that shows the preamp board and as I said before it's scary how much the Ramsey looks like it only with the exception of the tuning coil,and only without the plug/socket and the schematics are almost identical to. Mike n9wzx --- skipp025 [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: No problama Mike... If it would do you any good... I have some really nice close-up pictures of the original Motorhead (motorola) preamp board, which might be hand to view if you were going to make or adapt a board in. It's almost such an easy board to make, you could pretty much clone it. cheers, skipp Michael Haddix [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Thanks for the info, Skipp, took a look and think I got Micor Test Set wired up to work, just haven't tried it yet. I'm thinking of trying to adapt the little 2mtr preamp kit that Ramsey Electronics is selling. It strangely enough is almost of identical circuitry when compared to the MSR preamp schematic(wonder how that happened!!??). Looks as though, one would only need to adapt a socket to fit the MSR board and cross-wire it accordingly. It's about the same size as the MSR preamp and looks as though it will fit in the filter hole without too much trouble also. Anyway, thanks a bunch for the info and help. Mike n9wzx Yahoo! Groups Links [EMAIL PROTECTED] __ Yahoo! DSL Something to write home about. Just $16.99/mo. or less. dsl.yahoo.com Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
[Repeater-Builder] combiner on ebay
re: Telewave 4CH 150 MHz Low-Loss Transmitter Combiner 4TRM Item number: 7574455744 For those of you watching the above mentioned auction and the sellers previous (now closed) auction of the same type UHF Combiner... If you total up the individual parts purchased surplus (like on ebay) vs the cost of the constructed device (as shown), the current auction is not really a great deal. But you are paying for the knowledge along with the parts used to originally construct and sell the combiner retail. If you view the auction before the close... watch the sharks come in at the last min. cheers, skipp Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Multimeter for $2.99
At 12/27/2005 04:23 PM, you wrote: I have a Harbor Freight store about 2 miles from me I had one of the Centech cheapies and didn't bother replacing it after it died. The AC volts scale was way off on it from the day I opened the box... 118vAC on my Fluke DVM or my Simpson 260 read 124v on the Centech. If I were going to buy one I'd take another meter and some test samples: a 9v DC battery and both a 100 ohm and a 10k resistor with me to the store... I'd read the store's AC voltage with my meter, then pop open the Centech box there in the store and use it to read the AC voltage, the 9v battery and the two resistors against known values (i.e. your other meter). Mike WA6ILQ Just don't try to use the DMM to measure its own 9V battery. That don't work! Bob NO6B Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Tower Installation
Also try Champion Towers they have some Gr8 insight of the what NOT to do also it seems like they have a wind chart I think, good for knowing what to expect. Mark Tomany wrote: Doug, Try this link: http://www.rohnindustries.com/ROHNNET/rohnnet2004/html2004/index.html Then click on "On-Line Catalog" on the left side of the page. This will open a PDF screen on the page. Choose the "GT Series" towers, then "25G", and finally "Foundation Details". You can print these out if you need the "engineering diagrams" from Rohn for your project. Also - you might want to bookmark this link - it does not show up readily with a Google search... :-) FWIW, I have a 60' Rohn 25G, set 4' in the ground and bracketed to my house at 28'. (By design, the overall height is 56' above ground.) I then have a 10' mast, with 6' above the crown of the tower, and a Diamond X500NA to the top of that, and - until recently - a Winegard super fringe TV antenna just below that. I also have three other antennas side-mounted about 20' down the tower. This towerhas survived 18 years now in northern Illinois, and recently only required that some of the mounting bolts be replaced due to tower movement wear on the bolts themselves - something that I'm told is a fairly common issue. Once the bolts were replaced, the tower was again strong and secure. A 30' tower will surely serve you very well, especially if you decide to bracket that to your house. As some have suggested, make certain that you get your approval in writing before constructing your tower. Good luck on your poroject. 73 de Mark - N9WYS Doug Fitts W7FDF [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: My last posting for 2005 with a question: My home owners association with their CCR's and other regs [here in my community of Vail, Arizona] has "seen the light" regarding new FCC legislation on antenna and tower installation parameters and height restrictions. They [the association] recently sent me a monthly Newsletter [December issue] which specifically acknowledges word for word, that the "Federal Communications Commission [FCC] passed legislation that prohibits associations from restricting individual members from receiving adequate transmission signals". Yes, I did after reading this fired off an email to the manager of the association [this morning] asking that they send me what is called an Architectural Improvement form so I can submit my "project"...to install a 30 foot Rohn tower for my 900 mhz antenna system and other antennas related to repeater/remotebase and other link systems [a.k.a, antenna farm on a tower]. My question on a typical tower installation and please keep in mind...I have no experience in this area other then as a "helper" with other installations years ago. Can someone direct me to a website or specifically explain how best to "lay the foundation" to install a 30 foot Rohn tower without guy wires. Yes, I plan, once I purchase the tower sections [working on that with a local Ham] to secure the second bottom section to the eave of the house. In short, I think I want to sink/install the first five foot section of the tower into the ground, use rebar for added support and firmness, pour cement to "fill the hole" at the base of a five foot section of the tower, then secure the upper section to the eave of the house with steel brackets [that I may have to have formed and bent to the right config]. I am new at this so any and all suggestions on/from this list would be appreciated so very much. This will be my new 900 mhz repeater and remotebase project for 2006!! The wife and I have been living in our new home now 15 months and I really desire to install a quality antenna system for the three repeaters I currently operate and maintain. So please comment/send thoughts and suggestions on your own experiences with tower installatons. I am looking forward to "getting my hands dirty", digging the hole for the tower and rebar and pouring the cement...and at age 62, I NEED the exercise!! Best 73 and **Happy Holidays** Doug Fitts W7FDF Vail, Arizona U.S.A. Cienega Radio Network 927.8500/R 449.925/R 448.250/R IRLP node 3850 Echolink 47474 -- MZ YAHOO! GROUPS LINKS Visit your group "Repeater-Builder" on the web. To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service. begin:vcard fn:Mark A. Holman n:Holman;Mark A. email;internet:[EMAIL PROTECTED] title:Webmaster, IT Student note;quoted-printable:IT, Student Member IEEE, Life Member ARRL, Assoc. Member SBE, CRO, ARRL= VE=0D=0A= Welcome to the Snowy stuff of Michigan=0D=0A= x-mozilla-html:TRUE url:http://www.ab8ru.org version:2.1 end:vcard
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Tower Installation
I agree with Gary and will add that you will probably need a building permit and be subject to local building codes. You should check that out before acquiring materials,IMHO... AND WHATEVER YOU DO,PUT CLIMBING GUARDS ON TO KEEP KIDS OFF!!! You may also want to check into insurance coverage.BT,DT! 73,Lee Gary Pearce KN4AQ wrote: Hi, Doug and all, I think you are confusing a couple of FCC rules, and may be misinterpreting your HOA's letter (at least as much as you quoted). There are NO FCC rules or Congressional legislation requiring HOA's to permit ham radio towers and antennas if the CCR's restrict them. There are two FCC rules in play here, and neither does what you want: One is PRB-1, which requires governments (cities, counties, states) to accommodate ham antennas to some extent. This does NOT apply to HOA's and CCR's, which are private contracts between you and the seller/HOA. The other is the FCC OTARD rule that preempts HOA restrictions on certain small broadcast TV and data receiving antennas and satellite dishes. This does NOT apply to amateur radio antennas. Details here: http://www.fcc.gov/mb/facts/otard.html The ARRL has lobbied the FCC to extend PRB-1 coverage to HOA's and CCR's, and the FCC has specifically refused to do that, saying that if Congress intends that, they'll need to legislate it and the FCC will respond. The ARRL has gotten a bill before Congress to do that thanks to some friendly Congressmen. Chances of passage are (or zero, according to some). If your HOA really is confused about the matter, perhaps that's good for you. But YOU shouldn't be confused. Before you spend a lot on a tower, you might have a lawyer figure out how to lock in their permission, lest they discover their error one day and give you grief. If they aren't confused, and you are trying to twist the OTARD rule to cover a ham antenna, you better have a very good lawyer fighting for you. And just to be complete, the FCC doesn't pass laws or legislation. The FCC makes rules, based on legislation passed by Congress. 73, Gary KN4AQ Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Motorola Mobile Micor - T43RTN3190B Need Repairs
Do you have a manual and a test meter? Timothy V Horvath wrote: No I'm not. I'd say the transmitter/power amp is spurious. Are you sure it is tuned correctly? Kevin Tim Horvath wrote: I have 2 of these units converted for 2 meter repeater use and both have problems. I'm located near Daytona beach Florida. Is there anyone near this area that repair these radios? #1 unit, has static noise when in transmit with nothing connected (audio, contoller). #2 unit, when it unkeys it pulls about 4 Amps, sometime for 10 seconds or maybe 30 min. as if a relay is sticking?? Any Ideas. I would like to find someone near me to take it to for repair. Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Motorola Mobile Micor - T43RTN3190B Need Repairs
Meter Yes, Manual no. Can I get what I need from web site? On Tue, 27 Dec 2005 21:59:56 -0500 Kevin Custer [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: Do you have a manual and a test meter? Timothy V Horvath wrote: No I'm not. I'd say the transmitter/power amp is spurious. Are you sure it is tuned correctly? Kevin Tim Horvath wrote: I have 2 of these units converted for 2 meter repeater use and both have problems. I'm located near Daytona beach Florida. Is there anyone near this area that repair these radios? #1 unit, has static noise when in transmit with nothing connected (audio, contoller). #2 unit, when it unkeys it pulls about 4 Amps, sometime for 10 seconds or maybe 30 min. as if a relay is sticking?? Any Ideas. I would like to find someone near me to take it to for repair. Yahoo! Groups Links Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Multimeter for $2.99
I disagree, I have had many repeater partys with my Fluke 87 and it has always come through.On 12/27/05, Neil McKie [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:In my personal opinion, a digital meter is worthless for tuning - anything.Neil McKie - WA6KLAYahoo! Groups Links* To visit your group on the web, go to:http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:[EMAIL PROTECTED]* Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/ YAHOO! GROUPS LINKS Visit your group "Repeater-Builder" on the web. To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.
[Repeater-Builder] Re: Tower Installation
Doug, For what you plan to do there is no reason at all to use concrete. Back in the Sixties I helped install dozens of thirty and forty foot Rohn towers for TV receivers and never used the first bag of cement when using a house bracket. Many of these towers are still in use today. With a good house bracket installation you should be able to go twenty feet above the house bracket. Dig a hole about two feet deep and put your first section in it. Put a couple of bricks under the two legs next to the house. Put an inch or two of pea gravel in for drainage. If you do the house bracket right (bolted into something very substantial) it will last forever. Been putting them up this way for more than forty years but will quit when the first one falls down. A piece of Rohn 25 will break into before you can move it sideways if it's two feet in the ground. I repeat, there is no good reason to use concrete with a good house bracket install! Let the house bracket do its job. If you still feel you must use concrete at least keep the top of the slab six inches or more below grade. That way when you move you can cut the tower off below grade and there is no visable evidence that there was ever a tower there. The tower should extend down though the concrete into some gravel for drainage. 73, Al, K9SI, also 62 Date: Tue, 27 Dec 2005 00:40:34 -0700 From: Doug Fitts W7FDF [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Tower Installation My last posting for 2005 with a question: snip So please comment/send thoughts and suggestions on your own experiences with tower installatons. I am looking forward to getting my hands dirty, digging the hole for the tower and rebar and pouring the cement...and at age 62, I NEED the exercise!! Best 73 and **Happy Holidays** Doug Fitts W7FDF Vail, Arizona U.S.A. Cienega Radio Network 927.8500/R 449.925/R 448.250/R IRLP node 3850 Echolink 47474 Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
RE: [Repeater-Builder] Multimeter for $2.99
Hello, Some of the Fluke's have a bar graph that gives a sort of analog reading to be able to tune a radio. You can use a purely digital meter but it's much easier with a good analog readout like a Triplett 630 NA or Simpson 260. Paul -Original Message-From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]On Behalf Of DCFluXSent: Tuesday, December 27, 2005 10:06 PMTo: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.comSubject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Multimeter for $2.99I disagree, I have had many repeater partys with my Fluke 87 and it has always come through. On 12/27/05, Neil McKie [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: In my personal opinion, a digital meter is worthless for tuning - anything.Neil McKie - WA6KLAYahoo! Groups Links* To visit your group on the web, go to:http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:[EMAIL PROTECTED]* Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/ YAHOO! GROUPS LINKS Visit your group "Repeater-Builder" on the web. To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.
RE: [Norton AntiSpam] Re: [Repeater-Builder] Multimeter for $2.99
- Original Message - From: Mike Morris To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: 12/27/2005 7:27:57 PM Subject: [Norton AntiSpam] Re: [Repeater-Builder] Multimeter for $2.99 I have a Harbor Freight store about 2 miles from meI had one of the Centech cheapens and didn't bother replacing it after it died. The AC volts scale was way off on it from the day I opened the box... 118vAC on my Fluke DVM or my Simpson 260 read 124v on the Centech. Yea a man with two watches never knows what time it is, Seriously though if you were checking to see if voltage is present or if a fuse is good or not or if a feed line is shorted or not it would be adequate. I am meter poor around here but I bought a couple anyway to give to my customers to check fuses with. Heck I don't even think you can get a test light (battery powered)for $2.99. It has a one year warranty but it would probably cost more than $2.99 to mail it back to them. tom n8ies If I were going to buy one I'd take another meter and some test samples: a 9v DC battery and both a 100 ohm and a 10k resistor with me to the store... I'd read the store's AC voltage with my meter, then pop open the Centech box there in the store and use it to read the AC voltage, the 9v battery and the two resistors against known values (i.e. your other meter).Mike WA6ILQAt 03:54 PM 12/27/05, you wrote: Harbor Freight Tool has these on sale right now for $2.99 good little beater meter the leads suck though. Would be great tool for repeater sites or EOC's Comand centers ect.tom n8ieshttp://www.data-nation.com/index.asp?redirect=centech.asp picture here. 7-Function Multitester Features: YAHOO! GROUPS LINKS Visit your group "Repeater-Builder" on the web. To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service. YAHOO! GROUPS LINKS Visit your group "Repeater-Builder" on the web. To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.
[Repeater-Builder] Additional suggestion on Tower Installation
Be aware that when a tower is connected to a house for support it willcause noise created by wind, vibration, creaking, moaning, grinding, etc. to be transmitted throughout the house. This can keep the wife and maybe you upset while trying to sleep to the point that you wish you didn't install it that way. Depending on tower section installation, those who live in areas where it can freeze, you may consider drilling a 1/8 inch hole aprox 1/2 inch above earth level. You will get condensation build up over time. Maybe not in AZ but elsewhere other installers may consider it. If it cracks due to frost freeze you will have a major problem. Lastly, don't do as a newbie tower installer I know did. He installed the tower upside down. Yes, when it rained the water flowed down the tower legs and right into the lower sections. If you bury bottom section in dirt, even galvanized metal will over time rust right at grass level. Oxygen along with acids in the soil will act on galvanizing atgrass level.That's why towers should have a coating of heavy tar or rubberized paint to protect the legs. Don't forget the ground rod. Gary Katona K2UQ age 67 YAHOO! GROUPS LINKS Visit your group "Repeater-Builder" on the web. To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.
[Repeater-Builder] Thanks and SCR 1000 Questions
I wish to thank the moderators for their very nice welcoming message. Something I find refreshing these days. Anyway, a few months ago I became the proud owner of a Spectrum Communications SRC - 1000 VHF FM Repeater. Formerly owned by my local club and taken off the air and relaced w/ a GE a few years ago. I have all the Paperwork (ie: Manual) that came with the repeater. The only thing missing is the original mic. My understanding is that this was a hum dinger of a repeater when it was new in 1983, and served our club for over 15 years. Any and all opinions on this unit will be greatly appreciated, as I plan in the next few months to recrystal, align, etc.. and put back on the air. Also, should I use the bear minimum on the duplexer (4 cavity) or go all out and get a 6 cavity? Thanks in advance Chris KU4LV Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: [Norton AntiSpam] Re: [Repeater-Builder] Multimeter for $2.99
Gee whiz! Why do you require all that accuracy? When I stick the probes in the wall outlet, if I see a voltage between 100 and 125, I'm happy, and if it's "0", then I know somethings wrong. I paid a whopping $4.99 for mine at ACE and it has done me service many times when I just wanted to see if 12 volts or 5 volts was there or was the signal zero, etc. I'll bet I can tell if your car battery is dead or if it'scharging. And it's good for continuity and gets you in the ballpark for resistance. What do you expect for $2.99? de WD7F John in Tucson - Original Message - From: Thomas Oliver To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Tuesday, December 27, 2005 9:44 PM Subject: RE: [Norton AntiSpam] Re: [Repeater-Builder] Multimeter for $2.99 - Original Message - From: Mike Morris To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: 12/27/2005 7:27:57 PM Subject: [Norton AntiSpam] Re: [Repeater-Builder] Multimeter for $2.99 I have a Harbor Freight store about 2 miles from meI had one of the Centech cheapens and didn't bother replacing it after it died. The AC volts scale was way off on it from the day I opened the box... 118vAC on my Fluke DVM or my Simpson 260 read 124v on the Centech. Yea a man with two watches never knows what time it is, Seriously though if you were checking to see if voltage is present or if a fuse is good or not or if a feed line is shorted or not it would be adequate. I am meter poor around here but I bought a couple anyway to give to my customers to check fuses with. Heck I don't even think you can get a test light (battery powered)for $2.99. It has a one year warranty but it would probably cost more than $2.99 to mail it back to them. tom n8ies If I were going to buy one I'd take another meter and some test samples: a 9v DC battery and both a 100 ohm and a 10k resistor with me to the store... I'd read the store's AC voltage with my meter, then pop open the Centech box there in the store and use it to read the AC voltage, the 9v battery and the two resistors against known values (i.e. your other meter).Mike WA6ILQAt 03:54 PM 12/27/05, you wrote: Harbor Freight Tool has these on sale right now for $2.99 good little beater meter the leads suck though. Would be great tool for repeater sites or EOC's Comand centers ect.tom n8ieshttp://www.data-nation.com/index.asp?redirect=centech.asp picture here. 7-Function Multitester Features: YAHOO! GROUPS LINKS Visit your group "Repeater-Builder" on the web. To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service. YAHOO! GROUPS LINKS Visit your group "Repeater-Builder" on the web. To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.
[Repeater-Builder] Re: Multimeter for $2.99
I can get the last tenth of a milivolt out of a MASTR II receiver with a my Fluke can you say that for the Simpson 260? Plus, you have to treat the Simpson like egg shells. DOnt get me wrong I used a Simpson for many years until I got used to using a FLUKE DVM for tuning. You have to go slowly during tuning but it pays off. AC0Y --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Paul Finch [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Hello, Some of the Fluke's have a bar graph that gives a sort of analog reading to be able to tune a radio. You can use a purely digital meter but it's much easier with a good analog readout like a Triplett 630 NA or Simpson 260. Paul -Original Message- From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of DCFluX Sent: Tuesday, December 27, 2005 10:06 PM To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Multimeter for $2.99 I disagree, I have had many repeater partys with my Fluke 87 and it has always come through. On 12/27/05, Neil McKie [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: In my personal opinion, a digital meter is worthless for tuning - anything. Neil McKie - WA6KLA Yahoo! Groups Links --- - -- YAHOO! GROUPS LINKS a.. Visit your group Repeater-Builder on the web. b.. To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] c.. Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service. --- - -- Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Additional suggestion on Tower Installation
The comments about vibration from wind noise are well taken. I think it better to separately guy the antenna rather than support it with the house. But if you have limited space, sometimes you have limited or no choice. However, I am not sure that I would drill a hole in the tower above the ground to drain water. Although round holes can alleviate stress when there is a crack (you drill a hole at the end of a crack and hope that the extra surface area spreads the stress and stops the crack from propagating), a hole at the bottom of a tower may be a source for a crack to propagate from, particularly if the tower moves a little in the wind. The solution I used to drain water in the tower legs was to dig a hole an extra foot deep, fill that extra foot or so with rock, mount the tower through the rock at least six to 8 inches, then fill the top part of the hole with concrete. You can do the same with sand instead of rock. This allows water to drain through the concrete pad into the rock (or sand) and out of the tower. I don't think this technique is any secret. Seems like I read it either in an amateur radio magazine or it may have been in my Rohn catalog. Painting the bottom of the tower before it goes into the concrete probably is a good idea. I wish I had done that with the Rustoleum I used to paint the guy wire poles. Micheal Salem N5MS [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Be aware that when a tower is connected to a house for support it willcause noise created by wind, vibration, creaking, moaning, grinding, etc. to be transmitted throughout the house. This can keep the wife and maybe you upset while trying to sleep to the point that you wish you didn't install it that way. Depending on tower section installation, those who live in areas where it can freeze, you may consider drilling a 1/8 inch hole aprox 1/2 inch above earth level. You will get condensation build up over time. Maybe not in AZ but elsewhere other installers may consider it. If it cracks due to frost freeze you will have a major problem. Lastly, don't do as a newbie tower installer I know did. He installed the tower upside down. Yes, when it rained the water flowed down the tower legs and right into the lower sections. If you bury bottom section in dirt, even galvanized metal will over time rust right at grass level. Oxygen along with acids in the soil will act on galvanizing atgrass level.That's why towers should have a coating of heavy tar or rubberized paint to protect the legs. Don't forget the ground rod. Gary Katona K2UQ age 67 YAHOO! GROUPS LINKS Visit your group "Repeater-Builder" on the web. To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.
[Repeater-Builder] Service monitor
I currently have at work, an Motorola R2600 service monitor. I need to upgrade to one that will work with Motorola VRM's like the VRM600 and 850's using the RDLAP, or whatever it is... Anyway, I would assume I would go with the next service monitor up that has the stuff I need. I know they are made by someone else now. But are there any other monitors I should be looking at? Thanks for the input. -Tim theVAP.com Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
