[Repeater-Builder] Power supply identification request.

2006-03-13 Thread zl3tda
Hi to all on the list. I have lurked for a while and always get a
great deal from reading the various posts and infos that are posted. I
now have a question for the group: I am wanting to get some
information on a powersupply that I have, which is ex repeater use. It
is a Motorola and is model number 25D84880NO2. It has a 13.8v dc
secondary and a 14 v dc secondary. The 13.8v is for supplying the
radios and the 14v for charging batteries, it seems. I would like to
use this as a power source in my motorhome and use the 14v to charge
two 225 amp/hour Gel batteries. There is a circuit board on this
supply with three 4 amp fuses and one 10amp fuse, an eight posted plug
and an equalise switch. Can anyone help me with a circuit, wiring
information, and idea of what the eight pins are for? All and any
information will be muchly appreciated. I have two 55 watt panels to
add to the setup also and would appreciate any ideas as to an ideal
setup and control configuration to get the best out of the setup.

Thanks in advance. ( Ps: it will have a mobile UHF repeater connected
up... just to keep this post on topic :-)

73 de Graham Shaw
ZL3TV ( ex - ZL3TDA )
Christchurch
New Zealand.










 
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Re: [Repeater-Builder] Power supply identification request.

2006-03-13 Thread Bob M.
Look all over the chassis for another model number,
probably on a yellow or orange sticker, something that
starts with TPN.

This almost sounds like a power supply for an MSF5000,
but I'm sure there are other similar station supplies.
Same number and size of fuses, and the equalize switch
would indicate it is the battery-charging version.

But I hesitate to say that's what it is for sure
because I couldn't find any reference to that 25D
number.

Bob M.
==
--- zl3tda [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 Hi to all on the list. I have lurked for a while
 and always get a
 great deal from reading the various posts and infos
 that are posted. I
 now have a question for the group: I am wanting to
 get some
 information on a powersupply that I have, which is
 ex repeater use. It
 is a Motorola and is model number 25D84880NO2. It
 has a 13.8v dc
 secondary and a 14 v dc secondary. The 13.8v is for
 supplying the
 radios and the 14v for charging batteries, it seems.
 I would like to
 use this as a power source in my motorhome and use
 the 14v to charge
 two 225 amp/hour Gel batteries. There is a circuit
 board on this
 supply with three 4 amp fuses and one 10amp fuse, an
 eight posted plug
 and an equalise switch. Can anyone help me with a
 circuit, wiring
 information, and idea of what the eight pins are
 for? All and any
 information will be muchly appreciated. I have two
 55 watt panels to
 add to the setup also and would appreciate any ideas
 as to an ideal
 setup and control configuration to get the best out
 of the setup.
 
 Thanks in advance. ( Ps: it will have a mobile UHF
 repeater connected
 up... just to keep this post on topic :-)
 
 73 de Graham Shaw
 ZL3TV ( ex - ZL3TDA )
 Christchurch
 New Zealand.

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[Repeater-Builder] A couple of Micor questions..

2006-03-13 Thread Mike Perryman
First, thanks to all who responded to my requests for info regarding
interfacing the RC-210.  The repeater is on the air and functioning
reasonably well!

I do have another question though...  I have a cont.-duty PA (Micor cont
duty on 40MHz split) for it, and the interconnect board I have does not have
the header pins for interfacing it.  So it goes without saying I also do not
have the associated cabling.  Does anyone have info regarding how to make
the outboard PA play?  My question is, what gets tied to where with regard
to the interconnect board and the PA.
I couldn't find what I was looking for in my manual, as it is for an
intermittant-duty compa-station.  Actually I can't find much info in my
manual regarding this PA.  I did notice that it will have to be moved into
the correct band-split so there is still some work in my future...

Thanks again
 73
Mike Perryman
www.k5jmp.us





 
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RE: [Repeater-Builder] A couple of Micor questions..

2006-03-13 Thread Jim Cicirello
Mike, If the low band PA's are the same wiring configuration as the VHF Hi,
there is a pin on the end of the Amp which must be grounded when you
transmit. Other than that, it is just 12+, Exciter in and RF out. As I
remember as you look at the component side of the amp, the pin is on the
left end. I don't remember any other exterior connections. 
Good Luck,  73
Jim KA2AJH  Wellsville, N.Y. 

_
From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Mike Perryman
Sent: Monday, March 13, 2006 9:36 AM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] com
Subject: [Repeater-Builder] A couple of Micor questions..

First, thanks to all who responded to my requests for info regarding
interfacing the RC-210.  The repeater is on the air and functioning
reasonably well!

I do have another question though...  I have a cont.-duty PA (Micor cont
duty on 40MHz split) for it, and the interconnect board I have does not have
the header pins for interfacing it.  So it goes without saying I also do not
have the associated cabling.  Does anyone have info regarding how to make
the outboard PA play?  My question is, what gets tied to where with regard
to the interconnect board and the PA.
I couldn't find what I was looking for in my manual, as it is for an
intermittant-duty compa-station.  Actually I can't find much info in my
manual regarding this PA.  I did notice that it will have to be moved into
the correct band-split so there is still some work in my future...

Thanks again
 73
Mike Perryman
www.k5jmp.us





 
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RE: [Repeater-Builder] A couple of Micor questions..

2006-03-13 Thread Mike Perryman
Thanks Jim,
I thought that was the case, but wasn't sure.  I had played with putting one
of these amps on a 2m machine about 5yrs ago...  but didn't recall just
exactly how I made it play.  There is a single pin below what looks to be
metering attachments (4 each, in a parelellagram above it).  The only other
question would be the header pins on the transmitter interconnect board and
how they figure into the mess...??  I have 2 other chassis, and they have
the header pins...  just didn't want to have to do major surgery to change
the interconnect board.

Thanks again,
 73
Mike Perryman
www.k5jmp.us


  -Original Message-
 From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
 [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]  On Behalf Of Jim Cicirello
 Sent: Monday, March 13, 2006 10:36 AM
 To:   Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
 Subject:  RE: [Repeater-Builder] A couple of Micor questions..
 
 Mike, If the low band PA's are the same wiring configuration as the VHF
 Hi, there is a pin on the end of the Amp which must be grounded when you
 transmit. Other than that, it is just 12+, Exciter in and RF out. As I
 remember as you look at the component side of the amp, the pin is on the
 left end. I don't remember any other exterior connections. 
 Good Luck,  73
 Jim KA2AJH  Wellsville, N.Y. 
 
 _
 From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
 [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Mike Perryman
 Sent: Monday, March 13, 2006 9:36 AM
 To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] com
 Subject: [Repeater-Builder] A couple of Micor questions..
 
 First, thanks to all who responded to my requests for info regarding
 interfacing the RC-210.  The repeater is on the air and functioning
 reasonably well!
 
 I do have another question though...  I have a cont.-duty PA (Micor cont
 duty on 40MHz split) for it, and the interconnect board I have does not
 have the header pins for interfacing it.  So it goes without saying I also
 do not have the associated cabling.  Does anyone have info regarding how
 to make the outboard PA play?  My question is, what gets tied to where
 with regard to the interconnect board and the PA.
 I couldn't find what I was looking for in my manual, as it is for an
 intermittant-duty compa-station.  Actually I can't find much info in my
 manual regarding this PA.  I did notice that it will have to be moved into
 the correct band-split so there is still some work in my future...
 
 Thanks again
  73
 Mike Perryman
 www.k5jmp.us
 




 
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RE: [Repeater-Builder] A couple of Micor questions..

2006-03-13 Thread Jim Cicirello
Mike, 
How about getting the ground you need for the PA from your controller
instead of the backplane? When the controller goes into PTT it gives you the
timing you need, i.e. the tail, etc. If the controller goes to ground on the
PTT, you could get your ground there. If it goes high, you could use a
transistor to invert the positive to ground. You wouldn't have to go to the
backplane. This is one approach that may be simple?

Good Luck   73 

Jim KA2AJH  Wellsville, N.Y. 

_
From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Mike Perryman
Sent: Monday, March 13, 2006 10:52 AM
To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [Repeater-Builder] A couple of Micor questions..

Thanks Jim,
I thought that was the case, but wasn't sure.  I had played with putting one
of these amps on a 2m machine about 5yrs ago...  but didn't recall just
exactly how I made it play.  There is a single pin below what looks to be
metering attachments (4 each, in a parelellagram above it).  The only other
question would be the header pins on the transmitter interconnect board and
how they figure into the mess...??  I have 2 other chassis, and they have
the header pins...  just didn't want to have to do major surgery to change
the interconnect board.

Thanks again,
 73
Mike Perryman
www.k5jmp.us


 -Original Message-
From:   Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]  On Behalf Of Jim Cicirello
Sent:   Monday, March 13, 2006 10:36 AM
To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
Subject:RE: [Repeater-Builder] A couple of Micor questions..

Mike, If the low band PA's are the same wiring configuration as the
VHF Hi, there is a pin on the end of the Amp which must be grounded when you
transmit. Other than that, it is just 12+, Exciter in and RF out. As I
remember as you look at the component side of the amp, the pin is on the
left end. I don't remember any other exterior connections. 
Good Luck,  73
Jim KA2AJH  Wellsville, N.Y. 

_
From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Mike Perryman
Sent: Monday, March 13, 2006 9:36 AM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] com
Subject: [Repeater-Builder] A couple of Micor questions..

First, thanks to all who responded to my requests for info regarding
interfacing the RC-210.  The repeater is on the air and functioning
reasonably well!

I do have another question though...  I have a cont.-duty PA (Micor
cont duty on 40MHz split) for it, and the interconnect board I have does not
have the header pins for interfacing it.  So it goes without saying I also
do not have the associated cabling.  Does anyone have info regarding how to
make the outboard PA play?  My question is, what gets tied to where with
regard to the interconnect board and the PA.
I couldn't find what I was looking for in my manual, as it is for an
intermittant-duty compa-station.  Actually I can't find much info in my
manual regarding this PA.  I did notice that it will have to be moved into
the correct band-split so there is still some work in my future...

Thanks again
 73
Mike Perryman
www.k5jmp.us





 
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RE: [Repeater-Builder] A couple of Micor questions..

2006-03-13 Thread Mike Perryman
Yup, I was thinking the same thing...  although I may use a small relay to
accomplish this.  Depending on how much current the RC-210 can sink to
ground, gotta check on that.  I don't want to toast the new controller...
 73
Mike Perryman
www.k5jmp.us


  -Original Message-
 From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
 [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]  On Behalf Of Jim Cicirello
 Sent: Monday, March 13, 2006 12:32 PM
 To:   Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
 Subject:  RE: [Repeater-Builder] A couple of Micor questions..
 
 Mike, 
 How about getting the ground you need for the PA from your controller
 instead of the backplane? When the controller goes into PTT it gives you
 the timing you need, i.e. the tail, etc. If the controller goes to ground
 on the PTT, you could get your ground there. If it goes high, you could
 use a transistor to invert the positive to ground. You wouldn't have to go
 to the backplane. This is one approach that may be simple?
 
 Good Luck   73 
 
 Jim KA2AJH  Wellsville, N.Y. 
 
 _
 From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
 [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Mike Perryman
 Sent: Monday, March 13, 2006 10:52 AM
 To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
 Subject: RE: [Repeater-Builder] A couple of Micor questions..
 
 Thanks Jim,
 I thought that was the case, but wasn't sure.  I had played with putting
 one of these amps on a 2m machine about 5yrs ago...  but didn't recall
 just exactly how I made it play.  There is a single pin below what looks
 to be metering attachments (4 each, in a parelellagram above it).  The
 only other question would be the header pins on the transmitter
 interconnect board and how they figure into the mess...??  I have 2 other
 chassis, and they have the header pins...  just didn't want to have to do
 major surgery to change the interconnect board.
 
 Thanks again,
  73
 Mike Perryman
 www.k5jmp.us
 
 
-Original Message-
   From:   Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
 [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]  On Behalf Of Jim Cicirello
   Sent:   Monday, March 13, 2006 10:36 AM
   To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
   Subject:RE: [Repeater-Builder] A couple of Micor questions..
 
   Mike, If the low band PA's are the same wiring configuration as the
 VHF Hi, there is a pin on the end of the Amp which must be grounded when
 you transmit. Other than that, it is just 12+, Exciter in and RF out. As I
 remember as you look at the component side of the amp, the pin is on the
 left end. I don't remember any other exterior connections. 
   Good Luck,  73
   Jim KA2AJH  Wellsville, N.Y. 
 
   _
   From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
 [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Mike Perryman
   Sent: Monday, March 13, 2006 9:36 AM
   To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] com
   Subject: [Repeater-Builder] A couple of Micor questions..
 
   First, thanks to all who responded to my requests for info regarding
 interfacing the RC-210.  The repeater is on the air and functioning
 reasonably well!
 
   I do have another question though...  I have a cont.-duty PA (Micor
 cont duty on 40MHz split) for it, and the interconnect board I have does
 not have the header pins for interfacing it.  So it goes without saying I
 also do not have the associated cabling.  Does anyone have info regarding
 how to make the outboard PA play?  My question is, what gets tied to where
 with regard to the interconnect board and the PA.
   I couldn't find what I was looking for in my manual, as it is for an
 intermittant-duty compa-station.  Actually I can't find much info in my
 manual regarding this PA.  I did notice that it will have to be moved into
 the correct band-split so there is still some work in my future...
 
   Thanks again
73
   Mike Perryman
   www.k5jmp.us
 




 
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RE: [Repeater-Builder] A couple of Micor questions..

2006-03-13 Thread Ken Arck
At 12:41 PM 3/13/2006 -0500, you wrote:

Yup, I was thinking the same thing...  although I may use a small relay to
accomplish this.  Depending on how much current the RC-210 can sink to
ground, gotta check on that.  I don't want to toast the new controller...

---The PTT output of the RC210 can sink 500 ma at up to 90 volts. Same for
every output actually :-)

Ken
--
President and CTO - Arcom Communications
Makers of the world famous RC210 Repeater Controller and accessories.
http://www.ah6le.net/arcom/index.html
Authorized Dealers for Kenwood and Telewave and
we offer complete repeater packages!
AH6LE/R - IRLP Node 3000
http://www.irlp.net




 
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RE: [Repeater-Builder] A couple of Micor questions..

2006-03-13 Thread Mike Perryman
Thanks Ken...  no sooner looked that up than you chimed-in.  Responsive as
ever!!
How much battery is required for the battery backup?  Looks like it is diode
protected so I don't have to worry about boiling (or worse) a small gel
cell  but wanted to check with you..
mike

-Original Message-
From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Ken Arck
Sent: Monday, March 13, 2006 12:48 PM
To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [Repeater-Builder] A couple of Micor questions..


At 12:41 PM 3/13/2006 -0500, you wrote:

Yup, I was thinking the same thing...  although I may use a small relay to
accomplish this.  Depending on how much current the RC-210 can sink to
ground, gotta check on that.  I don't want to toast the new controller...

---The PTT output of the RC210 can sink 500 ma at up to 90 volts. Same for
every output actually :-)

Ken

--
President and CTO - Arcom Communications
Makers of the world famous RC210 Repeater Controller and accessories.
http://www.ah6le.net/arcom/index.html
Authorized Dealers for Kenwood and Telewave and
we offer complete repeater packages!
AH6LE/R - IRLP Node 3000
http://www.irlp.net





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RE: [Repeater-Builder] A couple of Micor questions..

2006-03-13 Thread Ken Arck
At 12:55 PM 3/13/2006 -0500, you wrote:
Thanks Ken...  no sooner looked that up than you chimed-in.  Responsive as
ever!!
How much battery is required for the battery backup?  Looks like it is diode
protected so I don't have to worry about boiling (or worse) a small gel
cell  but wanted to check with you..

---Oh.. 6 volts or so should be plenty to keep the clock alive (assuming
by how much you mean voltage?). It would take more to actually operate
the controller (as low as 10 volts should work). 

If all you want to do is keep the clock alive, 4 AA alkalines should pretty
much last forever for that purpose.

Ken
--
President and CTO - Arcom Communications
Makers of the world famous RC210 Repeater Controller and accessories.
http://www.ah6le.net/arcom/index.html
Authorized Dealers for Kenwood and Telewave and
we offer complete repeater packages!
AH6LE/R - IRLP Node 3000
http://www.irlp.net




 
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Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Project advice

2006-03-13 Thread Jim B.
Paul Yonge wrote:
 But this is GMRS-it MUST, by law, be CTCSS controlled.
 
 Are you sure about that?
 

Yup. carrier squelch is illegal.
DCS, even LTR is ok. But CSQ is VERY bad.

-- 
Jim Barbour
KAE9169






 
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[Repeater-Builder] Re: Project advice

2006-03-13 Thread Ric
Thanks to all those who responded.  I think I will forgo the 805-D's 
and look for a small 'ready to go' repeater.  Intended use is for my 
parked vehicle, on-site at flea markets, fair grounds, parks, etc.
The reason I was looking at 805-ds was the ease of being able to change 
channels/pl's if needed to not interfer with existing systems that may 
be operating in the area.
Thanks again,
Ric B.








 
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Re: [Repeater-Builder] internet via uhf commercial radio

2006-03-13 Thread Jim B.
Ian Wells wrote:
  Has anyone setup a wireless internet community where a group of users can
 use uhf radios and/or repeaters to communicate with a base station to access
 the internet instead of phone lines and what types of speeds can you expect?
 are there any good pages on this type of setup?

heh-bad idea. 9600 is about all you can expect. Some mobile data mfg can 
get to 14.4K, but they are proprietary and actual throughput to the 
internet will be much less.
Not to mention that they aren't full duplex...
-- 
Jim Barbour
WD8CHL





 
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Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Kenwood TKR 820

2006-03-13 Thread Jim B.
skipp025 wrote:

 Kirk G. is selling tkr-820's cheap enough on ebay right now, 
 but they don't include the controller. What a surprise some 
 buyers are going to have when they learn the repeater is 
 missing the repeater controller board. 

Well, that's pretty stupid. Why bother taking the board out? You don't 
even need to open that section to interface a controller...worst case 
you might pull the tone chip. Maybe.
sheesh...
-- 
Jim Barbour
WD8CHL





 
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Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Kenwood TKR 820

2006-03-13 Thread Mark Tomany



I'm thinking that "Eric B" doesn't know that this repeaterhas an internal controller. He probably saw the empty Molex connector on the back panel and made an assumption - and we all know what hapens when we ASSUME... heheheMark - N9WYS"Jim B." [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:  skipp025 wrote: Kirk G. is selling tkr-820's cheap enough on ebay right now,  but they don't include the controller. What a surprise some  buyers are going to have when they learn the repeater is  missing the repeater controller board. Well, that's pretty stupid. Why bother taking the board out? You don't even need to open that section to interface a controller...worst case you might pull the tone chip. Maybe.sheesh...-- Jim BarbourWD8CHL













  




  
  
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Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Kenwood TKR 820

2006-03-13 Thread Mark Tomany



Sorry - I meant "Kirk G"..Mark Tomany [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:I'm thinking that "Eric B" doesn't know that this repeaterhas an internal controller. He probably saw the empty Molex connector on the back panel and made an assumption - and we all know what hapens when we ASSUME... heheheMark - N9WYS













  




  
  
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Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Kenwood TKR 820

2006-03-13 Thread Mark Tomany



Sorry - I meant "Krik G"..Mark Tomany [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:I'm thinking that "Eric B" doesn't know that this repeaterhas an internal controller. He probably saw the empty Molex connector on the back panel and made an assumption - and we all know what hapens when we ASSUME... heheheMark - N9WYS













  




  
  
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Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Project advice

2006-03-13 Thread Dick





Well, I looked at the GMRS rules and don't see a requirement for tone 
squelch...
digital or CTCSS. I don't think tone squelch is require, but it sire 
is good common
sense for a GMRS repeater.

Dick

- Original Message - 
From: Jim B. 
To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com 

Sent: 13 March, 2006 12:49
Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Project advice
Paul Yonge wrote: But this is GMRS-it MUST, by 
law, be CTCSS controlled.  Are you sure about that? 
Yup. carrier squelch is illegal.DCS, even LTR is ok. But CSQ is VERY 
bad.-- Jim 
BarbourKAE9169Yahoo! Groups 
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Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Kenwood TKR 820

2006-03-13 Thread DCFluX
and we all know what hapens when we ASSUME...  hehehe

I think that was said best in a Stevan Segal movie. Under Seige Pt.2


The TKR-820 will just sit there like a dumb shit until the magic tone
is played for it on the channel that the receiver is tuned to.  Pull
out the 8 pin EEProm that is on the controller board, I think it is
94C56 , this will force the receiver into carrier access. Then one of
the pots on the controller board is squelch, tweak it untill the
repeater starts transmitting. Bust out your radio shack frequency
counter or a modified handheld and count it up to figure out what it
is transmitting on. Then try to set your radio for a common split,
with + and - 5, 3, 2.5 or 1.5 and see which one brings it up.

BTW, the controller is not the board behind the front panel, it is the
small almost 3X5 board that sits in a tray above the radio chassis.
Although the channels are set by the front panel board for what ever
reason.

It is possible to brute force program the EEproms to what ever channel
and tone you want without the KPT-50, check the archive for the
threads from about 5 months ago.




 
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Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Project advice

2006-03-13 Thread DCFluX
Yeah, just like it is the law for any 2M repeater on a mountain top to
have PL on the receiver.  Um, Right

On 3/13/06, Dick [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 Well, I looked at the GMRS rules and don't see a requirement for tone
 squelch...
 digital or CTCSS.  I don't think tone squelch is require, but it sire is
 good common
 sense for a GMRS repeater.

 Dick


 - Original Message -
 From: Jim B.
 To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
 Sent: 13 March, 2006 12:49
 Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Project advice

 Paul Yonge wrote:
  But this is GMRS-it MUST, by law, be CTCSS controlled.
 
  Are you sure about that?
 

 Yup. carrier squelch is illegal.
 DCS, even LTR is ok. But CSQ is VERY bad.

 --
 Jim Barbour
 KAE9169







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[Repeater-Builder] Re Micor Questions

2006-03-13 Thread mike
Mike
  I have a lowband 100 watt continous duty PA on my Six meter 
repeater. You will need to locate the pin on input side of the Amp and 
ground it. I use it to control the repeater if I should need to shut 
it down.
Mike
W1ZFB







 
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[Repeater-Builder] Re: Kenwood TKR 820

2006-03-13 Thread skipp025
Re: Kenwood TKR 820

I agree Jim, but some guys pull the boards and sell them 
on Ebay for about $50 each.  If you don't think you'll 
ever need them, you generate another $50 income and run 
an external tone/ltr panel through the rear connector. 

cheers,
skipp 


 Jim B. [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: 
 Well, that's pretty stupid. Why bother taking the board 
 out? You don't even need to open that section to 
 interface a controller...worst case you might pull 
 the tone chip. Maybe.
 sheesh...
 -- 
 Jim Barbour
 WD8CHL


  skipp025 wrote: 
  Kirk G. is selling tkr-820's cheap enough on ebay right now, 
  but they don't include the controller. What a surprise some 
  buyers are going to have when they learn the repeater is 
  missing the repeater controller board. 









 
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[Repeater-Builder] Re: Kenwood TKR 820

2006-03-13 Thread skipp025

Kirk G. never assumes... He is the owner of Signature 
Wireless, one of the largest uhf trunking system owner ops 
in the Country.  Some of you know him as one of the orignal 
people in Nextel before he sold out.  

I would assume he knows exactly what he has and why it's 
set up that way. 

cheers,
skipp 

 Mark Tomany [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 Sorry - I meant Kirk G..
 
 Mark Tomany [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:I'm thinking that Eric B doesn't
know that this repeater has an internal controller. He probably saw
the empty Molex connector on the back panel and made an assumption -
and we all know what hapens when we ASSUME...  hehehe

   Mark - N9WYS









 
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[Repeater-Builder] milcom amps

2006-03-13 Thread Steve Hutzley

Does anyone have any information/schematics on Milcom
International amplifiers.

I recently was given two of them, both in VHF service

#1) Mod: LP10-10E1C1, FCC: E675JS0009, 10W in/100W
out, 150 MHz

#2) Mod: P18-40E1-C1L, FCC: E675JS0013, 40W in/180W
out, 150-160 MHz

73
Steve





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[Repeater-Builder] Re: Decibel duplexer harness lengths

2006-03-13 Thread na6df
I have that same set. The folks who took over the decibel duplexer 
division tell me that the cable lengths don't change.
Here is a copy and paste of my earlier posting:

--Well, after a bunch of poking around, and calling DB/Allen
Telecom/Andrews, they directed me to the new company who handles the
old DB Products line of duplexers and such...

It's now called DBSpectra www.dbspectra.com

   Phone: 469.322.0080

Fax: 469.322.0079

1590 E. Hwy. 121 Bus. Bldg. A Lewisville TX 75056

I nice guy in the support department looked up the data on the DB4060
for me and here's the scoop:

He did say that there was some difference in the loops for the
different band segments, but all the cable lengths are the same for
any segment.

Cables for the high pass side, including the one going to the tee are
10 cut length (cable only length, not including connector).
On the low pass side, cable to tee is also 10 cut length, but cable
between cavities is 10.5, cut length.

He did not elaborate on any differences in the loops.

Enough CSI Duplexer for one day..

73,

dave na6df
- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Jay Urish [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 Does anybody have the formula for the harness on a Decibel DB-4060-
WOC-C?
 
 Its a 4 can VHF duplxer. It used to be up around 155Mhz and I need 
to 
 get it down to 145.23/144.63
 It will tune the 145.23 but 144.630 just won't notch right. I 
suspect 
 the inter-cavity harness.
 
 Any help would be appreciated!
 -- 
 Jay Urish W5GM
 DCARA President   ARRL Life Member
 TXFCA President   ERS Vice-Prez
 Denton County ARRL VEC
 N5ERS VP/Trustee
 
 Monitoring 1292.30Ghz PL-100.0441.375 PL-88.5 and 444.850 
PL-88.5









 
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Re: [Repeater-Builder] milcom amps

2006-03-13 Thread Kris Kirby
On Mon, 13 Mar 2006, Steve Hutzley wrote:
 Does anyone have any information/schematics on Milcom International 
 amplifiers.
 
 I recently was given two of them, both in VHF service
 
 #1) Mod: LP10-10E1C1, FCC: E675JS0009, 10W in/100W out, 150 MHz
 
 #2) Mod: P18-40E1-C1L, FCC: E675JS0013, 40W in/180W out, 150-160 MHz
 
 73 Steve

Also, are these things strickly class C or do they sell a linear amp?

--
Kris Kirby, KE4AHR [EMAIL PROTECTED]
   BIG BROTHER IS WATCHING YOU!
 This message brought to you by the US Department of Homeland Security




 
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[Repeater-Builder] Re: milcom amps

2006-03-13 Thread skipp025
The Milcom Amplifiers I have are all linear polyfet 
designs.  I have converted some of the 220 ACSB repeater 
pa's over to FM with an increase in power output. 

If you sent me a good internal view picture, I could 
probably tell you if it's a linear mode amplifier. 

Good luck trying to get Milcom Amplifier information 
from anyone.  But the designs are straight forward 
so regular fet amplifier theory works. 

If you need more rf amplifier information, please feel 
free to join us over on the rfamplifiers yahoo group. 

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/rfamplifiers/

cheers,
skipp 

  Kris Kirby [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 On Mon, 13 Mar 2006, Steve Hutzley wrote:
  Does anyone have any information/schematics on 
  Milcom International  amplifiers.
  
  I recently was given two of them, both in VHF service
  
  #1) Mod: LP10-10E1C1, FCC: E675JS0009, 10W in/100W out, 150 MHz
  
  #2) Mod: P18-40E1-C1L, FCC: E675JS0013, 40W in/180W out, 150-160 MHz
  
  73 Steve
 Also, are these things strickly class C or do they 
 sell a linear amp?
 --
 Kris Kirby, KE4AHR [EMAIL PROTECTED]







 
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Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Kenwood TKR 820

2006-03-13 Thread John
DCFluX wrote:

It is possible to brute force program the EEproms to what ever channel
and tone you want without the KPT-50, check the archive for the
threads from about 5 months ago.


I checked the archives back to 1999 and couldn't find this. I'd be 
interested to findout more about it if you can help me

John





 
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[Repeater-Builder] photos of dead MASTR II PA

2006-03-13 Thread Nate Duehr
Everyone knows about the web page that talks about doing the 
modification to the MASTR II PA with a piece of braid between the final 
board and the low-pass filter board...

http://www.repeater-builder.com/ge/mastrIIparepair.html

-
And the page that talks about not driving the UHF PA into non-50-ohm 
loads...

http://www.repeater-builder.com/ge/mastrIIuhfpacomments.html

-

Here's the photos of a *VHF* PA that didn't get the board to board 
jumper mod and the results of driving it into a load that wasn't 50 Ohm 
that was probably reactive in some way also...

http://www.natetech.com/images/Burnt_SquawMtn_VHF_PA_03112006/

(We haven't determined exactly what's wrong with the load yet, but it 
was a pass-cavity that was throwing back 4W reflected at 70W input... 
not good... removing the pass-can and going directly into the combiner 
yielded 80W -- WITHOUT changing the settings on the PA -- and zero 
reflected.  Bad juju going on there.  We by-passed the can for now, so 
we can go back up when the site is more accessible and do more measuring.)

-

The PA that smoked in the photos was set to about 80W output at the site 
in the fall, before it was snowed in, and it did a nice job of smoking 
the connection between the final board and the LPF.  I now have that 
unmistakeable smell of charred electronics in my Jeep.  It's better than 
one of those Pine Tree thingys for giving my Jeep that smell of home.

LOL!

Kevin, if someone wants to edit these into an article for future 
reference, please feel free to copy them, edit them for size, etc. 
They're all yours.

They're not perfectly in focus, but they're better than nothing.  I can 
try to shoot a few more with better light to make the digital camera 
happier, if desired.

I can also get (hopefully better) photos of some of the other standard 
failure modes of the M2 PA (yeah, we've had bad luck this year) as I go 
through the repairs... got a UHF on the bench with a power divider 
resistor turned to charcoal here somewhere, too...

Nate WY0X




 
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Re: [Repeater-Builder] Digest Number 3664

2006-03-13 Thread N5IUF






More than likely the cause of your problemwas the connection between 
the two boards developed a cold solder joint and began to ark. This 
happens all the timewith thisPA. It may not have had anything 
to do with your load. If you have 70W going in and 4W reflected, that's 
about a 1.65:1 VSWR, which is not that bad.

Chris

In a message dated 3/13/2006 5:54:44 P.M. Central Standard Time, 
Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com writes:
Here's 
  the photos of a *VHF* PA that didn't get the board to board jumper mod and 
  the results of driving it into a load that wasn't 50 Ohm that was probably 
  reactive in some way also...















  




  
  
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Re: [Repeater-Builder] Digest Number 3664

2006-03-13 Thread Nate Duehr
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 More than likely the cause of your problem was the connection between 
 the two boards developed a cold solder joint and began to ark.  This 
 happens all the time with this PA.  It may not have had anything to do 
 with your load.  If you have 70W going in and 4W reflected, that's about 
 a 1.65:1 VSWR, which is not that bad.
  
 Chris
  
 In a message dated 3/13/2006 5:54:44 P.M. Central Standard Time, 
 Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com writes:
 
 Here's the photos of a *VHF* PA that didn't get the board to board
 jumper mod and the results of driving it into a load that wasn't 50 Ohm
 that was probably reactive in some way also...

Well, not bad unless you consider that coming out of that pass can, 
measured output was just under 70W with virtually zero reflected from 
the cavity to the combiner, which has a ferrite dual-port isolator as 
its first stage...

So the reflected power was ALL from that single VHF pass-cavity (or 
cable going to it), tuned/coupled for only 0.55 dB insertion loss, and 
basically just in-line to be a good neighbor to another VHF system 
that was experimenting with using a receive antenna not on the combiner 
system and in the direct horizontal line of fire of the combined TX 
antenna everyone else is using at the site.

We were attempting to help lower our output's effect on their input 
about 1 MHz away by about 10dB.

Anyway, an experiment... yeah, the PA could have munched itself all by 
itself, I know... but I'm suspicious of a single pass cavity causing 
that much reflected power.

Definitely wasn't worth leaving it installed for the moment... will 
re-evaluate when it's easier to get to the site.

Nate WY0X






 
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Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Kenwood TKR 820

2006-03-13 Thread DCFluX
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/message/57016

On 3/13/06, John [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 DCFluX wrote:

 It is possible to brute force program the EEproms to what ever channel
 and tone you want without the KPT-50, check the archive for the
 threads from about 5 months ago.
 

 I checked the archives back to 1999 and couldn't find this. I'd be
 interested to findout more about it if you can help me

 John






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Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Decibel duplexer harness lengths

2006-03-13 Thread Jay Urish
I must have missed your earlier post. Thanks for the re-hash! Maybe 
tomorrow I wil get my buddy Chris to come over here with a network 
analyzer to see whazt the deal is.. My harnes is correct by your specs.


na6df wrote:
 I have that same set. The folks who took over the decibel duplexer 
 division tell me that the cable lengths don't change.
 Here is a copy and paste of my earlier posting:
 
 --Well, after a bunch of poking around, and calling DB/Allen
 Telecom/Andrews, they directed me to the new company who handles the
 old DB Products line of duplexers and such...
 
 It's now called DBSpectra www.dbspectra.com
 
Phone: 469.322.0080
 
 Fax: 469.322.0079
 
 1590 E. Hwy. 121 Bus. Bldg. A Lewisville TX 75056
 
 I nice guy in the support department looked up the data on the DB4060
 for me and here's the scoop:
 
 He did say that there was some difference in the loops for the
 different band segments, but all the cable lengths are the same for
 any segment.
 
 Cables for the high pass side, including the one going to the tee are
 10 cut length (cable only length, not including connector).
 On the low pass side, cable to tee is also 10 cut length, but cable
 between cavities is 10.5, cut length.
 
 He did not elaborate on any differences in the loops.
 
 Enough CSI Duplexer for one day..
 
 73,
 
 dave na6df
 - In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Jay Urish [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 
Does anybody have the formula for the harness on a Decibel DB-4060-
 
 WOC-C?
 
Its a 4 can VHF duplxer. It used to be up around 155Mhz and I need 
 
 to 
 
get it down to 145.23/144.63
It will tune the 145.23 but 144.630 just won't notch right. I 
 
 suspect 
 
the inter-cavity harness.

Any help would be appreciated!
-- 
Jay Urish W5GM
DCARA President   ARRL Life Member
TXFCA President   ERS Vice-Prez
Denton County ARRL VEC
N5ERS VP/Trustee

Monitoring 1292.30Ghz PL-100.0441.375 PL-88.5 and 444.850 
 
 PL-88.5
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
  
 Yahoo! Groups Links
 
 
 
  
 
 
 

-- 
Jay Urish   Network Administrator
Unixwolf Enterprises LLC.
http://www.unixwolf.net
972.691.0125972.965.6229




 
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Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Kenwood TKR 820

2006-03-13 Thread John


DCFluX wrote:

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/message/57016


Thanks, I overlooked that one

John, K4AG





 
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Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Kenwood TKR 820

2006-03-13 Thread DCFluX
An NHRC-2 or NHRC-4 may fit there, but you should measure it to make
sure. Plus you need a way to derive COS, so you may want to look at
the NHRC squelch board or go with a Comspec PL board, or combonation
of both.

On 3/13/06, Paul Finch [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 Hello,

 The 820 repeater I have does not have a controller in it, wonder if it ever
 did.  I got it second hand but it was set up for LTR trunking.

 Did Kenwood have a option of no controller?  Be interesting to find out.

 By the way, who knows what they were thinking when/if they removed the
 controller, no reason to say something or someone is stupid.  That area
 where the old controller was is the perfect place to install a small
 controller with the ID built in, something the 820 controller does not have.

 Have a little tolerance guys.  There is always someone smarter than we/you
 are.

 Paul


 -Original Message-
 From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
 [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of skipp025
 Sent: Monday, March 13, 2006 4:11 PM
 To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
 Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Kenwood TKR 820


 Re: Kenwood TKR 820

 I agree Jim, but some guys pull the boards and sell them
 on Ebay for about $50 each.  If you don't think you'll
 ever need them, you generate another $50 income and run
 an external tone/ltr panel through the rear connector.

 cheers,
 skipp


  Jim B. [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
  Well, that's pretty stupid. Why bother taking the board
  out? You don't even need to open that section to
  interface a controller...worst case you might pull
  the tone chip. Maybe.
  sheesh...
  --
  Jim Barbour
  WD8CHL
 
 
   skipp025 wrote:
   Kirk G. is selling tkr-820's cheap enough on ebay right now,
   but they don't include the controller. What a surprise some
   buyers are going to have when they learn the repeater is
   missing the repeater controller board.










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[Repeater-Builder] Info needed. 450 MHz, 75 Watt Amp Micor TLE1713A-3

2006-03-13 Thread George Sintchak
Micor series TLE1713A-3.  Looking for schematics, metering info, etc. 
and/or a manual if you have one to spare or can copy part of a manual. 
For non-commercial use in an amatuer repeater. The amplifier seems to 
be working fine. 2 Watts in ~90+ max Watts out (un-controlled) at 449 
MHz. I will be controlling the output to use at the ~50-60 Watt level. 
I just need documentation at the rptr site for future reference. This 
way, if I have the documentation, I'll never need to fix it - Inverse 
Murphy's Law.  :D  Tnx.

George, WA2VNV







 
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Re: [Repeater-Builder] 4 Bay antenna

2006-03-13 Thread Maxwell Pratt
 If you make a harness for that antenna use RG-59 or RG-11 -  75 ohm Cable 
to get match , don't use RG-58 or RG-8 it won't work , and it doesn't have 
to be Cushcraft can be other brands many manufactures made them I have one 
made by Hy Gain it also has n connectors. Worked better than a lot of 
those fiberglass pieces of junk never put one of them up that lasted over a 
year . I took A 4 bay down that had been up over 20 years and it did a 
better job than the one we replaced it with . RG-59 will handle 100 watts 
but loss is grater than RG-11 .
  Oldmax   Dale 
N8SAC


- Original Message - 
From: Chuck Kelsey [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sunday, March 12, 2006 5:09 PM
Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] 4 Bay antenna


 You have a Cushcraft  4-pole. This is not a particularly good antenna.
 Yes you can use Tee connectors. Don't place this antenna in service on
 anything that is critical, would be my suggestion.

 Chuck
 WB2EDV




 [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 I have a 4 bay vhf antenna, with each antenna straight and not
 folded. The harness is old and cracked. Some one has used
 electrical tape on some of the harness. There is no label or
 markings anyplace to know what brand it might be. If I made a new
 harness, can I use T connectors? Each antenna has a gama
 match for tuning. and using mobile size coax; no markings on the
 coax either.

 Rod KC7VQR





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RE: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Kenwood TKR 820

2006-03-13 Thread Paul Finch
DCFlux,

I have plenty of ICS controllers as well as Comm Spec CTCSS boards but as I
said it's set up for LTR, I may use it that way on my commercial tower.  If
there is a squelch gate you don't really need anything else.  The NHRC
squelch board may be faster but not that much.

Thanks anyway,
Paul

-Original Message-
From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of DCFluX
Sent: Monday, March 13, 2006 8:13 PM
To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Kenwood TKR 820


An NHRC-2 or NHRC-4 may fit there, but you should measure it to make
sure. Plus you need a way to derive COS, so you may want to look at
the NHRC squelch board or go with a Comspec PL board, or combonation
of both.

On 3/13/06, Paul Finch [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 Hello,

 The 820 repeater I have does not have a controller in it, wonder if it
ever
 did.  I got it second hand but it was set up for LTR trunking.

 Did Kenwood have a option of no controller?  Be interesting to find out.

 By the way, who knows what they were thinking when/if they removed the
 controller, no reason to say something or someone is stupid.  That area
 where the old controller was is the perfect place to install a small
 controller with the ID built in, something the 820 controller does not
have.

 Have a little tolerance guys.  There is always someone smarter than we/you
 are.

 Paul


 -Original Message-
 From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
 [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of skipp025
 Sent: Monday, March 13, 2006 4:11 PM
 To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
 Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Kenwood TKR 820


 Re: Kenwood TKR 820

 I agree Jim, but some guys pull the boards and sell them
 on Ebay for about $50 each.  If you don't think you'll
 ever need them, you generate another $50 income and run
 an external tone/ltr panel through the rear connector.

 cheers,
 skipp


  Jim B. [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
  Well, that's pretty stupid. Why bother taking the board
  out? You don't even need to open that section to
  interface a controller...worst case you might pull
  the tone chip. Maybe.
  sheesh...
  --
  Jim Barbour
  WD8CHL
 
 
   skipp025 wrote:
   Kirk G. is selling tkr-820's cheap enough on ebay right now,
   but they don't include the controller. What a surprise some
   buyers are going to have when they learn the repeater is
   missing the repeater controller board.










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[Repeater-Builder] Re: Kenwood TKR 820

2006-03-13 Thread skipp025
Controller boards on ebay all the time. Here's one about 
to close if you can get to it fast enough. 

Kenwood TKR-720/820 Repeater Control board NEW
Item number: 5878202993 

good luck
skipp 

 Paul Finch [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 Hello,
 
 The 820 repeater I have does not have a controller in it, wonder if
it ever
 did.  I got it second hand but it was set up for LTR trunking.
 
 Did Kenwood have a option of no controller?  Be interesting to find out.
 
 By the way, who knows what they were thinking when/if they removed the
 controller, no reason to say something or someone is stupid.  That area
 where the old controller was is the perfect place to install a small
 controller with the ID built in, something the 820 controller does
not have.
 
 Have a little tolerance guys.  There is always someone smarter than
we/you
 are.
 
 Paul
 
 
 -Original Message-
 From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
 [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of skipp025
 Sent: Monday, March 13, 2006 4:11 PM
 To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
 Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Kenwood TKR 820
 
 
 Re: Kenwood TKR 820
 
 I agree Jim, but some guys pull the boards and sell them
 on Ebay for about $50 each.  If you don't think you'll
 ever need them, you generate another $50 income and run
 an external tone/ltr panel through the rear connector.
 
 cheers,
 skipp
 
 
  Jim B. jdb@ wrote:
  Well, that's pretty stupid. Why bother taking the board
  out? You don't even need to open that section to
  interface a controller...worst case you might pull
  the tone chip. Maybe.
  sheesh...
  --
  Jim Barbour
  WD8CHL
 
 
   skipp025 wrote:
   Kirk G. is selling tkr-820's cheap enough on ebay right now,
   but they don't include the controller. What a surprise some
   buyers are going to have when they learn the repeater is
   missing the repeater controller board.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
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Re: [Repeater-Builder] 4 Bay antenna

2006-03-13 Thread no6b
At 3/13/2006 19:26, you wrote:
  If you make a harness for that antenna use RG-59 or RG-11 -  75 ohm Cable
to get match , don't use RG-58 or RG-8 it won't work

Why not?  2 50 ohm terminations (dipoles) T'd together make 25 ohms.  Run 
two 1/4 wave multiples (3/4, 1 1/4, etc.) from each T to get 100 ohms each 
to a 3rd T, which then gives you 50 ohms for the feedpoint.

The reason it's important to use 50 ohm coax is because you can use a 
silver-plated coax for the harness (I don't know of any 75 ohm coax that 
has a silver-plated braid; it probably exists but is not 
commonplace).  RG-59  RG-11 do not have a silver-plated braid  will 
eventually generate desense when used in duplex service.

Bob NO6B






 
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[Repeater-Builder] Motorola Radio ID

2006-03-13 Thread Don
I saw this Posted a   SOUTHERN LINC MOTOROLA MOBILE BASE STATION is
this Some Special Motorola radio You All Down south Use and is named
after You, Only kidding but I have never heard of this Model. What is it ?

Thanks Don KA9QJG 











 
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