Re: [Repeater-Builder] maggiore hi-pro rv4 220 squelch problem

[Mike Morris]

At 09:09 PM 04/08/06, you wrote:
>Mike Morris wrote:
>
> > not familiar with the Maggot squelch circuit) the squelch pot
>
>Maggot squelch circuit?  Freudian slip, Mike?  LOL!
>
>Nate WY0X

Eudora  Ver 7  spell checker changed Maggiore to Maggot !!!
Try it yourself !!!

ROTFL

Mike





 
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Re: [Repeater-Builder] maggiore hi-pro rv4 220 squelch problem

[Nate Duehr]

Mike Morris wrote:

> not familiar with the Maggot squelch circuit) the squelch pot

Maggot squelch circuit?  Freudian slip, Mike?  LOL!

Nate WY0X




 
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[Repeater-Builder] Re: Weird Kerchuking Problem

[wn1b8]

Scott,

Are you hearing the courtesy tone when this happens? The absence or 
presence of the tone could help narrow the possibilities. Also, what 
provides the PTT signaling for the repeater; tone, cor, or both? 
Have you tried disconnecting the receiver and checking to see if the 
problem still exists?

Scott Madison, WN1B


--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, "Scott" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> Here's the problem...
> 
> Every so often (several times in 10 minutes) we are getting a key 
up
> of our repeater. 
> 
> Here is what we know...
> There is no signal coming in on the input frequency. No even a 
small
> spike. It is almost like something in the set up is timing and 
keying,
> but it is not an exact interval. Doesn't matter is RX tone is 
enabled
> in the CAT or not.
> 
> Here is the setup...
> Motorola Mitrek trunk mount on 443.275, CAT 250 controller, Com-
Spec
> TS64DS tone board. It has a good 300W 3 can duplexer that is tuned
> correctly and working well. 75Amp power supply. The cabinet also 
has
> an APRS rig in it, as well as a remote receiver for another 
repeater,
> and a link radio, but NONE of that is even turned on (and doesn't 
make
> a difference when it is).
> 
> Suggestions as to what to look for...?
>









 
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[Repeater-Builder] Re: Hypothetical dipole antenna question

[n3dab]

Charles,

Sorry for the confusion and being a little dense this evening.   After 
reading your option 3 several more times I see you are saying the same 
thing I said in my arrangement #2.

Again thanks 

Doug  N3DAb
 










 
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Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Hypothetical dipole antenna question

[Charles Miller]

Doug,

Sorry for the confusion.

Using North as 0 degrees reference.

Top to Bottom.

#1
90
270
150
210

#2
90
270
180
180

#3
75
285
145
215

I hope this helps out.

Charles Miller



- Original Message - 
From: "n3dab" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: 
Sent: Saturday, April 08, 2006 9:17 PM
Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Hypothetical dipole antenna question


> Charles,
> 
> Thank you for response. It prety much confirms my suspitions but I 
> didn't have a modeling program to check it out   My inent was to 
> install the dipoles as indicated in my 2nd arrangement 1 E./1 w. and 
> 2 S. in that order top to bottom.  Your option 1 and 2 are clear but 
> I'm not sure I fully understand the arrangement in you 3rd option.  
> Can you give me the orientation from top to bottom of the 4 dipoles 
> based on the compass bearing each is pointed to, with N. being 0 
> degrees for option #3.  
> 
> Again thanks and 73
> 
> Doug   N3DAB
> 
> --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, "Charles Miller"  [EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> >
> > Doug,
> > 
> > I have 3 patterns for you.
> > 
> > First, If you do not want any signal to go "N"  and the signal 
> equal around
> > to the South then take the dipoles and place them in a 60 degree
> > orientation. The 2 on the top section should be 180 from each other 
> to the
> > East and West and the 2 on the bottom should set at a 60 degrees. 
> The 2
> > lower dipoles should be aligned 30 degrees to the east and West of 
> the South
> > alignment.
> > 
> > This will give you a fairly good pattern for the area that you want 
> to
> > cover.
> > 
> > The second pattern that will work is to place the dipoles in a 70 
> degree
> > pattern. Using South as the Zero degree alignment, 1 each at 35 
> degrees to
> > the East and West and the others at 70 degrees past that. This will 
> leave a
> > 150 degree arc or 75 degrees off North. This will provide a little 
> to the
> > North but not very much.
> > 
> > The first or second will work very well. If you need a little more 
> to the
> > south then take the top at 180 degrees and the bottom towards the 
> south at
> > 90 degrees. This will give you a little more gain to the South than 
> to the
> > East and West.
> > 
> > We had to do this in South Texas to keep a FED signal out of 
> Mexico. The
> > first is the one we used and it is still in use today.
> > 
> > Charles Miller
> > 
> > - Original Message - 
> > From: "n3dab" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > To: 
> > Sent: Saturday, April 08, 2006 1:23 PM
> > Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Hypothetical dipole antenna question
> > 
> > 
> > > 73 to the Group. Since there is a current discusion ongoing 
> related to
> > > dipole antennas I would appreciate any comments about the 
> hypothetical
> > > situation below:
> > >
> > > Asumming a DB224E antenna with 4 dipoles, top mounted on a tower, 
> and a
> > > coverage area that is a 270 degree arc (E,S and W.) from the 
> antenna,
> > > the remaing 90 degree segment (N.) being blocked by nearby and 
> much
> > > higher terrain, what is the best orientation of the dipoles on 
> the mast
> > > to provide the max. coverage to the 270 degree arc. all other 
> things
> > > aside.
> > >
> > > All dipoles aligned on one the S.face of the mast.
> > > 2 dipoles facing S., 1 facing E. and 1 facing W.
> > > @ facing SSE. and 2 facing SSW.
> > > 1 E., 1 SSE., 1 SSW., and 1 W.
> > > or some other arrangement
> > >
> > > TIA
> > > Doug  N3DAB
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > Yahoo! Groups Links
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
>  
> Yahoo! Groups Links
> 
> 
> 
>  
> 
> 
> 
> 





 
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Re: [Repeater-Builder] maggiore hi-pro rv4 220 squelch problem

[Mike Morris]

At 01:27 PM 04/08/06, you wrote:
>
>Our club 220 machine has been giving a lot of trouble with the squelch.
>
>The problem is that the squelch works fine for a while, then quits.
>By that I mean that it will not squelch even with no input signal at
>all.  No real clues, and the schematic is not very helpful.
>
>Any ideas?

Don't forget that a squelch circuit mutes when the squelch
noise is at maximum.  Depending on the circuit design (I'm
not familiar with the Maggot squelch circuit) the squelch pot
either feeds a varying DC voltage or a variable AC voltage to
a comparator circuit. The  comparator output goes active
(either high or low depends on the circuit design) to mute
the audio gate / audio mute circuit. This can get confusing
if you get into the "mindthink mode" that audio off is circuit
off - it's not!

Any change in the level going into the squelch pot or coming
from it will cause the comparator to see less noise and open
the audio gate.

BTW I have fixed more squelch problems with two tricks:
One, any connector in the path from discriminator audio
to squelch pot to audio mute circuit is suspect. Any drop
in level is interpreted by the squelch circuit as the presence
of a quieting signal. Wiggling the connectors is a quick
test.
Two, many squelch pots are not sealed and a squirt of
cleaner into the squelch pot followed by a few twists of
the knob can work wonders

And several years ago I found a bad spot in a hilltop repeater
squelch pot and did a quick fix by swapping the wiring on
the two fixed ends so that the threshold spot moved to a
undamaged area of the pot.  So what that the pot now twists
backwards? How often do you adjust the repeater squelch
anyway?

And later on we wired in an EEPOT chip and programmed
the controller with three macros: they selected one of three
"settings" ... loose, normal and tight.  We had problems
with the setting being "remembered" through a power fail
until we programmed the controller to zero the pot and
count up to the new setting on any change.  It helps
when it's a controller that you have the source code to...

So my suggestion is to put a voltmeter (either AC or DC,
depending on the circuitry)  on the wiper of the squelch
pot. See what it reads normally and when the squelch
is blowing.  That will be a first step in diagnosis.

Mike WA6ILQ





 
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[Repeater-Builder] Re: Hypothetical dipole antenna question

[n3dab]

Charles,

Thank you for response. It prety much confirms my suspitions but I 
didn't have a modeling program to check it out   My inent was to 
install the dipoles as indicated in my 2nd arrangement 1 E./1 w. and 
2 S. in that order top to bottom.  Your option 1 and 2 are clear but 
I'm not sure I fully understand the arrangement in you 3rd option.  
Can you give me the orientation from top to bottom of the 4 dipoles 
based on the compass bearing each is pointed to, with N. being 0 
degrees for option #3.  

Again thanks and 73

Doug   N3DAB

--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, "Charles Miller"  wrote:
>
> Doug,
> 
> I have 3 patterns for you.
> 
> First, If you do not want any signal to go "N"  and the signal 
equal around
> to the South then take the dipoles and place them in a 60 degree
> orientation. The 2 on the top section should be 180 from each other 
to the
> East and West and the 2 on the bottom should set at a 60 degrees. 
The 2
> lower dipoles should be aligned 30 degrees to the east and West of 
the South
> alignment.
> 
> This will give you a fairly good pattern for the area that you want 
to
> cover.
> 
> The second pattern that will work is to place the dipoles in a 70 
degree
> pattern. Using South as the Zero degree alignment, 1 each at 35 
degrees to
> the East and West and the others at 70 degrees past that. This will 
leave a
> 150 degree arc or 75 degrees off North. This will provide a little 
to the
> North but not very much.
> 
> The first or second will work very well. If you need a little more 
to the
> south then take the top at 180 degrees and the bottom towards the 
south at
> 90 degrees. This will give you a little more gain to the South than 
to the
> East and West.
> 
> We had to do this in South Texas to keep a FED signal out of 
Mexico. The
> first is the one we used and it is still in use today.
> 
> Charles Miller
> 
> - Original Message - 
> From: "n3dab" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: 
> Sent: Saturday, April 08, 2006 1:23 PM
> Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Hypothetical dipole antenna question
> 
> 
> > 73 to the Group. Since there is a current discusion ongoing 
related to
> > dipole antennas I would appreciate any comments about the 
hypothetical
> > situation below:
> >
> > Asumming a DB224E antenna with 4 dipoles, top mounted on a tower, 
and a
> > coverage area that is a 270 degree arc (E,S and W.) from the 
antenna,
> > the remaing 90 degree segment (N.) being blocked by nearby and 
much
> > higher terrain, what is the best orientation of the dipoles on 
the mast
> > to provide the max. coverage to the 270 degree arc. all other 
things
> > aside.
> >
> > All dipoles aligned on one the S.face of the mast.
> > 2 dipoles facing S., 1 facing E. and 1 facing W.
> > @ facing SSE. and 2 facing SSW.
> > 1 E., 1 SSE., 1 SSW., and 1 W.
> > or some other arrangement
> >
> > TIA
> > Doug  N3DAB
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Yahoo! Groups Links
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>









 
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Re: [Repeater-Builder] Hypothetical dipole antenna question

[Charles Miller]

Doug,

I have 3 patterns for you.

First, If you do not want any signal to go "N"  and the signal equal around
to the South then take the dipoles and place them in a 60 degree
orientation. The 2 on the top section should be 180 from each other to the
East and West and the 2 on the bottom should set at a 60 degrees. The 2
lower dipoles should be aligned 30 degrees to the east and West of the South
alignment.

This will give you a fairly good pattern for the area that you want to
cover.

The second pattern that will work is to place the dipoles in a 70 degree
pattern. Using South as the Zero degree alignment, 1 each at 35 degrees to
the East and West and the others at 70 degrees past that. This will leave a
150 degree arc or 75 degrees off North. This will provide a little to the
North but not very much.

The first or second will work very well. If you need a little more to the
south then take the top at 180 degrees and the bottom towards the south at
90 degrees. This will give you a little more gain to the South than to the
East and West.

We had to do this in South Texas to keep a FED signal out of Mexico. The
first is the one we used and it is still in use today.

Charles Miller

- Original Message - 
From: "n3dab" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: 
Sent: Saturday, April 08, 2006 1:23 PM
Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Hypothetical dipole antenna question


> 73 to the Group. Since there is a current discusion ongoing related to
> dipole antennas I would appreciate any comments about the hypothetical
> situation below:
>
> Asumming a DB224E antenna with 4 dipoles, top mounted on a tower, and a
> coverage area that is a 270 degree arc (E,S and W.) from the antenna,
> the remaing 90 degree segment (N.) being blocked by nearby and much
> higher terrain, what is the best orientation of the dipoles on the mast
> to provide the max. coverage to the 270 degree arc. all other things
> aside.
>
> All dipoles aligned on one the S.face of the mast.
> 2 dipoles facing S., 1 facing E. and 1 facing W.
> @ facing SSE. and 2 facing SSW.
> 1 E., 1 SSE., 1 SSW., and 1 W.
> or some other arrangement
>
> TIA
> Doug  N3DAB
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>






 
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RE: [Repeater-Builder] MSR2000

[Eric Lemmon]

Andy,

I have good news and bad news.  The good news is the MSR2000 Control and
Audio Instruction Manual 6881061E40 is still available from Motorola Parts
(800-422-4210) for about $55, which is much less than the cost of copying
the large document.  The bad news is that the MSR2000 VHF Base and Repeater
Stations Service Manual 6881061E50 has recently been cancelled.  You need
both manuals in order to align or troubleshoot the station.  FYI, the UHF
Station Manual 6881061E55 is also recently cancelled.

73, Eric Lemmon WB6FLY


-Original Message-
From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Andrew
Sent: Saturday, April 08, 2006 4:23 PM
To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Repeater-Builder] MSR2000

Hello Again guys,
  I have been handed the task of converting a High Band VHF 
Motorola MSR2000 Station to repeater service. Does anyone have/know 
where I can get the tune-up/alignment instructions for the MSR 
station? Another big help would be if anyone has the manuals for the 
VHF station that they would be willing to copy or direct me to where I 
can find them?  Thanks 

Andy KC2GOW 








 
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Re: [Repeater-Builder] Weird Kerchuking Problem

[Jay Urish]

Change your PL for a few days.. See what happens.

Scott wrote:
> Here's the problem...
> 
> Every so often (several times in 10 minutes) we are getting a key up
> of our repeater. 
> 
> Here is what we know...
> There is no signal coming in on the input frequency. No even a small
> spike. It is almost like something in the set up is timing and keying,
> but it is not an exact interval. Doesn't matter is RX tone is enabled
> in the CAT or not.
> 
> Here is the setup...
> Motorola Mitrek trunk mount on 443.275, CAT 250 controller, Com-Spec
> TS64DS tone board. It has a good 300W 3 can duplexer that is tuned
> correctly and working well. 75Amp power supply. The cabinet also has
> an APRS rig in it, as well as a remote receiver for another repeater,
> and a link radio, but NONE of that is even turned on (and doesn't make
> a difference when it is).
> 
> Suggestions as to what to look for...?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
>  
> Yahoo! Groups Links
> 
> 
> 
>  
> 
> 
> 

-- 
Jay Urish W5GM
ARRL Life MemberDenton County ARRL VEC
TXFCA President N5ERS VP/Trustee
DCARA President Denton County ARES AEC

Monitoring 444.850 PL-88.5 146.92 PL-110.9




 
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[Repeater-Builder] MSR2000

[Andrew]

Hello Again guys,
  I have been handed the task of converting a High Band VHF 
Motorola MSR2000 Station to repeater service. Does anyone have/know 
where I can get the tune-up/alignment instructions for the MSR 
station? Another big help would be if anyone has the manuals for the 
VHF station that they would be willing to copy or direct me to where I 
can find them?  Thanks 

Andy KC2GOW 








 
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Re: [Repeater-Builder] Weird Kerchuking Problem

[steve]

Hi
could it be something to do with the controller, ie spike on the supply, or
maybe RF getting into it.

Steve
- Original Message -
From: "Scott" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: 
Sent: Saturday, April 08, 2006 11:50 PM
Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Weird Kerchuking Problem


> Here's the problem...
>
> Every so often (several times in 10 minutes) we are getting a key up
> of our repeater.
>
> Here is what we know...
> There is no signal coming in on the input frequency. No even a small
> spike. It is almost like something in the set up is timing and keying,
> but it is not an exact interval. Doesn't matter is RX tone is enabled
> in the CAT or not.
>
> Here is the setup...
> Motorola Mitrek trunk mount on 443.275, CAT 250 controller, Com-Spec
> TS64DS tone board. It has a good 300W 3 can duplexer that is tuned
> correctly and working well. 75Amp power supply. The cabinet also has
> an APRS rig in it, as well as a remote receiver for another repeater,
> and a link radio, but NONE of that is even turned on (and doesn't make
> a difference when it is).
>
> Suggestions as to what to look for...?
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> --
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.1.385 / Virus Database: 268.4.0/304 - Release Date: 07/04/06
>




 
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[Repeater-Builder] Weird Kerchuking Problem

[Scott]

Here's the problem...

Every so often (several times in 10 minutes) we are getting a key up
of our repeater. 

Here is what we know...
There is no signal coming in on the input frequency. No even a small
spike. It is almost like something in the set up is timing and keying,
but it is not an exact interval. Doesn't matter is RX tone is enabled
in the CAT or not.

Here is the setup...
Motorola Mitrek trunk mount on 443.275, CAT 250 controller, Com-Spec
TS64DS tone board. It has a good 300W 3 can duplexer that is tuned
correctly and working well. 75Amp power supply. The cabinet also has
an APRS rig in it, as well as a remote receiver for another repeater,
and a link radio, but NONE of that is even turned on (and doesn't make
a difference when it is).

Suggestions as to what to look for...?









 
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Re: [Repeater-Builder] down tilt

[david vanhorn]

  If a coaxial collinear is fed with a signal that is 2% lower than its design, the antenna will exhibit a vertical beam downtilt of approximately 3 degrees and suffer approximately 10% loss in overall gain.  If a signal that is 2% higher than the antenna design is fed into a coaxial collinear, vertical beam uptilt of approximately 3 degrees will occur, and again a loss of overall gain.

 
I was wondering about the effects of tilt with fiberglass antennas.
I've looked at what a couple degrees of tilt will do to the coverage area of a low site (<150') and it's not good.
Then I look up at my fiberglas vunderstik which is tilted about 3-4 degrees to the east depending on how the wind blows.
 
I really want to put my dipole array up!
  














  




  
  
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Re: [Repeater-Builder] maggiore hi-pro rv4 220 squelch problem

[david vanhorn]

Yea,http://www.link-comm.com/controllers/accessories/rlcmot/rlc-mot.htm

 
Looks nice, but I'd rather not put that sort of money in this hardware. 
I'm just looking to make it "work" like it did when it was "working".
 
I've already retuned the transmitter to get rid of the "comb-generator" feature.
  














  




  
  
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[Repeater-Builder] icom ic40g

[Ian Wells]

 

Hi guys Has anyone been able to covert a icom ic40g to be able to
Receive and transmit commercial channels like the ic40s . 

Thank You,
Ian Wells,
Kerinvale Comaudio,
www.kerinvalecomaudio.com.au
 





















  




  
  
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Re: [Repeater-Builder] maggiore hi-pro rv4 220 squelch problem

[Kevin Custer]

Dave VanHorn wrote:
>  
> Our club 220 machine has been giving a lot of trouble with the squelch.
>
> The problem is that the squelch works fine for a while, then quits.
> By that I mean that it will not squelch even with no input signal at 
> all.  No real clues, and the schematic is not very helpful.
>
> Any ideas?

Yea,


Kevin




 
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Re: [Repeater-Builder] Quaterwave impedence transformer match

[Kevin Custer]

dgrapach wrote:
> Need help cutting cable lengths
>
> Does the bird enter into the length ?
>
> What am I doing wrong?

Download the manual to the Bird 43 here:


It will explain what to do to "remove" the Bird from the equation...

Kevin




 
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[Repeater-Builder] maggiore hi-pro rv4 220 squelch problem

[Dave VanHorn]

 
Our club 220 machine has been giving a lot of trouble with the squelch.

The problem is that the squelch works fine for a while, then quits.
By that I mean that it will not squelch even with no input signal at 
all.  No real clues, and the schematic is not very helpful.

Any ideas?









 
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Re: [Repeater-Builder] down tilt

[Chuck Kelsey]

Thanks for saving me all the typing ;-)

Chuck
WB2EDV



Kevin Custer wrote:
> I think what Chuck was getting at was the 'automatic' beamtilt of a 
> vertical omni collinear (usually fiberglass) when it is run outside of 
> its specified bandwidth.  As a function of the element length in a 
> coaxial collinear as compared to the applied frequency, the vertical 
> beam pattern will change with applied frequency.  If a coaxial collinear 
> is fed with a signal that is exactly on its design frequency, the 
> vertical beam pattern will be centered about the antenna, and the 
> antenna will be at its highest radiating efficiency.  If a coaxial 
> collinear is fed with a signal that is 2% lower than its design, the 
> antenna will exhibit a vertical beam downtilt of approximately 3 degrees 
> and suffer approximately 10% loss in overall gain.  If a signal that is 
> 2% higher than the antenna design is fed into a coaxial collinear, 
> vertical beam uptilt of approximately 3 degrees will occur, and again a 
> loss of overall gain.
> 
> These instances are not the case with binary or corporate fed dipole 
> arrays, as the phasing harness predominantly controls the vertical beam 
> pattern. Beam Tilt and efficiency doesn't change very much with applied 
> frequency, and is one reason that the exposed dipole array is a better 
> choice where wide band operation is required.
> 
> Kevin Custer
> 
> skipp025 wrote:
>> Kind of loaded question/statement/answer really.  All 
>> antennas have both horizontal and vertical beamwidth. 
>> Depending on what you think is beam-tilt... one could 
>> and some do say all antennas have a beam tilt and or 
>> a beam width. Others combine the description... 
>>
>> In the more commercial world of antennas, we now see 
>> vertical omni repeater site antennas with adjustable 
>> beam tilt. 
>>
>> But I'm not sure if I'd say they have to be made with 
>> fiberglass radomes (covers).  There's more than one method 
>> used by the various mfgrs to adjust the beam tilt - beam 
>> width.  For the most part we only see some models with 
>> adjustable setting in some vertical omni models with 
>> composite radomes. 
>>
>> ... and you pay serious money for the adjustable beam 
>> tilt models.  If you pay attention to the specs, you'll 
>> see values for the horizontal, vertitcal beam width and 
>> where needed, the/any adjustable beam tilt values. 
>>
>> Your results will probably vary... 
>>
>> cheers, 
>> skipp 
>>
>> 





 
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[Repeater-Builder] Quaterwave impedence transformer match

[dgrapach]

Need help cutting cable lengths

How do I cut odd multiples of quater waves, on a 75 ohm cable Belden 
8213  84 % velocity factor. I tried using 984 / freq  445.000.  
Fifth multiple is 27.869 inches. Do I measure overall length after I 
install connector? Cable is terminated with a 100 ohm resistor. 
Feeding with a 50 ohm Ht.
Measuring through a bird meter return loss is always better at above 
target freq 445.000. Does the bird enter into the length ? 

We tried a cable 15 3/8" overall length terminated with 100ohm 
resistor and measured on a network analyzer and got the best return 
loss of -35dB at 179 Mhz and -22dB at 516 Mhz.  These frequencies 
still don't match our calculated frequencies for this length.  Is 
this shifted because the 75 ohm impedence of the cable is not 
exactly right to match a 50ohm source to a 100ohm load at quarter 
wave multiples?

I am trying to find the lengths to make a cable harness for a folded 
dipole array.  What am I doing wrong?

Thanks,
Denny








 
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[Repeater-Builder] Hypothetical dipole antenna question

[n3dab]

73 to the Group. Since there is a current discusion ongoing related to 
dipole antennas I would appreciate any comments about the hypothetical 
situation below:

Asumming a DB224E antenna with 4 dipoles, top mounted on a tower, and a 
coverage area that is a 270 degree arc (E,S and W.) from the antenna, 
the remaing 90 degree segment (N.) being blocked by nearby and much 
higher terrain, what is the best orientation of the dipoles on the mast 
to provide the max. coverage to the 270 degree arc. all other things 
aside.

All dipoles aligned on one the S.face of the mast.
2 dipoles facing S., 1 facing E. and 1 facing W.
@ facing SSE. and 2 facing SSW.
1 E., 1 SSE., 1 SSW., and 1 W.
or some other arrangement

TIA
Doug  N3DAB








 
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Re: [Repeater-Builder] down tilt

[Kevin Custer]

I think what Chuck was getting at was the 'automatic' beamtilt of a
vertical omni collinear (usually fiberglass) when it is run outside of
its specified bandwidth.  As a function of the element length in a
coaxial collinear as compared to the applied frequency, the vertical
beam pattern will change with applied frequency.  If a coaxial
collinear is fed with a signal that is exactly on its design frequency,
the vertical beam pattern will be centered about the antenna, and the
antenna will be at its highest radiating efficiency.  If a coaxial
collinear is fed with a signal that is 2% lower than its design, the
antenna will exhibit a vertical beam downtilt of approximately 3
degrees and suffer approximately 10% loss in overall gain.  If a signal
that is 2% higher than the antenna design is fed into a coaxial
collinear, vertical beam uptilt of approximately 3 degrees will occur,
and again a loss of overall gain.

These instances are not the case with binary or corporate fed dipole
arrays, as the
phasing harness predominantly controls the vertical beam pattern. Beam
Tilt and efficiency doesn't change very much with applied frequency,
and is one reason that the exposed dipole array is a better choice
where wide band operation is required.

Kevin Custer

skipp025 wrote:

  Kind of loaded question/statement/answer really.  All 
antennas have both horizontal and vertical beamwidth. 
Depending on what you think is beam-tilt... one could 
and some do say all antennas have a beam tilt and or 
a beam width. Others combine the description... 

In the more commercial world of antennas, we now see 
vertical omni repeater site antennas with adjustable 
beam tilt. 

But I'm not sure if I'd say they have to be made with 
fiberglass radomes (covers).  There's more than one method 
used by the various mfgrs to adjust the beam tilt - beam 
width.  For the most part we only see some models with 
adjustable setting in some vertical omni models with 
composite radomes. 

... and you pay serious money for the adjustable beam 
tilt models.  If you pay attention to the specs, you'll 
see values for the horizontal, vertitcal beam width and 
where needed, the/any adjustable beam tilt values. 

Your results will probably vary... 

cheers, 
skipp 

  
  
Chuck Kelsey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
I believe the down tilt issue only happens with the 
fiberglass antennas.
Chuck
WB2EDV

wa9ba wrote:


  Our new antenna is 1.:1 on 
145.490 and the coverage has increased about 10 or 20 miles. 
Apparently we had some downtilt that we no longer have. 
I would recommend buying a DB224 cut for the ham bands first, save 
yourself trouble.
Bill WA9BA
  

  
  







 
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[Repeater-Builder] down tilt

[skipp025]

Kind of loaded question/statement/answer really.  All 
antennas have both horizontal and vertical beamwidth. 
Depending on what you think is beam-tilt... one could 
and some do say all antennas have a beam tilt and or 
a beam width. Others combine the description... 

In the more commercial world of antennas, we now see 
vertical omni repeater site antennas with adjustable 
beam tilt. 

But I'm not sure if I'd say they have to be made with 
fiberglass radomes (covers).  There's more than one method 
used by the various mfgrs to adjust the beam tilt - beam 
width.  For the most part we only see some models with 
adjustable setting in some vertical omni models with 
composite radomes. 

... and you pay serious money for the adjustable beam 
tilt models.  If you pay attention to the specs, you'll 
see values for the horizontal, vertitcal beam width and 
where needed, the/any adjustable beam tilt values. 

Your results will probably vary... 

cheers, 
skipp 

> Chuck Kelsey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> I believe the down tilt issue only happens with the 
> fiberglass antennas.
> Chuck
> WB2EDV
> 
> wa9ba wrote:
> > Our new antenna is 1.:1 on 
> > 145.490 and the coverage has increased about 10 or 20 miles. 
> > Apparently we had some downtilt that we no longer have. 
> > I would recommend buying a DB224 cut for the ham bands first, save 
> > yourself trouble.
> > Bill WA9BA








 
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Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: DB224 Antennas

[Mathew Quaife]

Oh I agree Skipp, this one has held up fine, been up for several years.  I can only imagine what te difference will be once I put up a new antenna cut for the band the right way.   Modifications are nice, but that is what they are, modifications.  Hopes are to have a new antenna purchased by mid summer and installed into the system.  Will let everyone know the difference once the swap has been completed.     Mathew  skipp025 <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:  If you measured the Diamond antenna's bandwidth, you'll probably notice it's not nearly as broad banded as the Decibel model/unit. It's possible the repeater tx (and or rx) operation near the band edges would have a problematic level of reflected power (swr). Such was the case with a Hustler antenna I once
 tried/used (and swapped out). Some of the Mono & Mult-Band Amateur Antenna models don't always make great repeater system antennas. The Decibel Antennas are commercial quality units made for serious applications. If you google the "Diamond 500 antenna"... you'll see more than one person posting bad news about Diamond Antenna physical failures after a year or two of operation. You get what you pay for... skipp > Mathew Quaife <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>wrote:>> I just got a good comparison on the DB224, and my Diamond 500antenna. FOr kick sakes I had a guy about 35 miles from the repeaterin a mobile giving about 25 watts out. WIth the DB224, originallydesigned for the 150-160 Mhz split, VSWR of 1.8:1, at 130' in the air,fed with 150' of 7/8" hardline he was full quieting into the system,claimed there was just a little noise on the repeater, but full scale.I then switched to the Diamond
 antenna, fed with 160' of 7/8"hardline, up at 92', he lost one bar on the meter and had just alittle noise in his signal. > > I can only think that if the diamond, which has a VSWR of 1.2:1were at 130' it would out perform the DB224. So if I had a DB224 cutfor the ham bands, it would only again out perform the Diamond antenna.> > So I agree, for $50.00, yes get the antenna that is cut for theham band. Plans are to purchase a new Antenna this year for therepeater. So if I may ask, what was the price quoted for a new DB224antenna for the 138-150 Mhz range?> > Mathew Yahoo! Groups Links<*> To visit your group on the web, go to:http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/<*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:[EMAIL PROTECTED]<*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject
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[Repeater-Builder] Re: DB224 Antennas

[skipp025]

If you measured the Diamond antenna's bandwidth, you'll 
probably notice it's not nearly as broad banded as the 
Decibel model/unit.  It's possible the repeater tx (and or 
rx) operation near the band edges would have a problematic 
level of reflected power (swr).  Such was the case with a 
Hustler antenna I once tried/used (and swapped out). 

Some of the Mono & Mult-Band Amateur Antenna models don't 
always make great repeater system antennas. 

The Decibel Antennas are commercial quality units made for 
serious applications.  If you google the "Diamond 500 
antenna"... you'll see more than one person posting bad 
news about Diamond Antenna physical failures after a year 
or two of operation.  

You get what you pay for... 

skipp 

> Mathew Quaife <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> I just got a good comparison on the DB224, and my Diamond 500
antenna.  FOr kick sakes I had a guy about 35 miles from the repeater
in a mobile giving about 25 watts out.  WIth the DB224, originally
designed for the 150-160 Mhz split, VSWR of 1.8:1, at 130' in the air,
fed with 150' of 7/8" hardline he was full quieting into the system,
claimed there was just a little noise on the repeater, but full scale.
 I then switched to the Diamond antenna, fed with 160' of 7/8"
hardline, up at 92', he lost one bar on the meter and had just a
little noise in his signal.  
>
>   I can only think that if the diamond, which has a VSWR of 1.2:1
were at 130' it would out perform the DB224.  So if I had a DB224 cut
for the ham bands, it would only again out perform the Diamond antenna.
>
>   So I agree, for $50.00, yes get the antenna that is cut for the
ham band.  Plans are to purchase a new Antenna this year for the
repeater.  So if I may ask, what was the price quoted for a new DB224
antenna for the 138-150 Mhz range?
>
>   Mathew 








 
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[Repeater-Builder] CSI 3850 controller problem

[dave_g7uzn]

Hi All, I rescently purchased a CSI 3850 shared repeater panel but 
when I came to program itIn A_U_ section parameters 
1.9 = 
2.0 = 38.49
2.3 to 4.1 all = A !!

I performed a factory reset but this hasn't cured the situation then I 
disconnected the backup battery for 5 mins and that didn't help either.

The eprom has a blue sticker on it and there is a date stamp on the 
unit pp #3  11/89

Can anyone tell me if I need an upgrade or is the unit knackered?

Ant help much appreciated..Cheers Dave G7UZN London








 
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Re: [Repeater-Builder] Connecting a repeater to a PBX

[FHS]

By using an interconnect with a security code that must be entered by the 
caller before they get connected: such as the Motorola MRTI. They are on the 
market cheep. I just picked up a spare MRTI-1000 on ebay for a dollar plus 
shipping. A little difficult to program but not unmanageable.
Fred W5VAY

- Original Message - 
From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: 
Sent: Friday, April 07, 2006 4:34 PM
Subject: RE: [Repeater-Builder] Connecting a repeater to a PBX


>
>  I wonder how will you keep wrong extension dialers from using
> an FCC License required radio system?
>
>  Neil - WA6KLA
>
>
>  Original Message 
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: RE: [Repeater-Builder] Connecting a repeater to a PBX
> Date: Thu, 6 Apr 2006 19:18:22 -0400
>
>>I am looking for a low end method (aka cheap ) of connecting
>>our small
>>campus repeater to our PBX so that users can dial an extension and
>>communicate over the repeater. We don't need to initiate access to
>>the PBX
>>from the repeater side. Someone told me that the CSI 5200 units could
>>fit
>>this bill. Any ideas?
>>
>>Bob
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> 






 
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Re: [Repeater-Builder] O/T Need help w/ 1.2 Ghz radio...

[steve]

Hi namesake

I live in the UK, so Iam trying to get my head round the way repeaters are
run in the USA. Who allocates the freqs ?, would it not make sense to
allocate either 12.5 or 25 kc
channels, as you have found out a lot of radios only let you select either
12.5 or 25

73


Steve
- Original Message -
From: "Steve" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: 
Sent: Saturday, April 08, 2006 7:08 AM
Subject: [Repeater-Builder] O/T Need help w/ 1.2 Ghz radio...


> Trying to get on the local 1284.42 repeater with my IC12GAT.But the
> darn radio only does 12.5 and 25 steps. (So I wind up on 1282.425)
> Anybody point me to a mod for this radio? WEB searches turned up
> nothing useful...
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> --
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.1.385 / Virus Database: 268.4.0/304 - Release Date: 07/04/06
>




 
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Re: [Repeater-Builder] Connecting a repeater to a PBX

[N9LLO]

This is not a Ham repeater is it? You can dial my work radio from anywhere if I give you the number!
 
Chris
N9LLO













  




  
  
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