[Repeater-Builder] Re: Micor UHF Repeater Parts

[tallinson2]

Bob,
I need option cards but, at I don't have a Micor manual as yet, I can
only give you the description printed on the card tray.  If you have
an email that I can send the list to, email me at tallinson2 
yahooo  comm.  $5.00 each as is is fine with me.
Tom

--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, "bbfmrf" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> I have a number of UHF Micor repeaters that I wish to move.  I have 
> tried selling them as a whole, but response was not positive, (mainly 
> due to shipping expense), so here is the new deal:
> 
> I will dismantle and sell ANY item on the repeater for $5 EACH, (Only 
> exception is the Low Power Amp, for which I request $10) plus 
> shipping.  (If multiple items are purchased, there will only be the 
> one shipping charge for all items included in the package).
>  
> I will stand firm at $5 each just to simplify matters.  Cards will be 
> included in this offer.  I have too many to list, so if you are 
> looking for something, please send a request and preferably a part # 
> and I will respond w/ the closest match I can find.  
>  
> (FYI, I have a LOT of cards from MSY repeaters and am not aware of 
> the differences, but if you want or can use any of those, the price 
> will be $2.00 per card for the MSY stuff)
>  
> All items are sold AS IS, (Caveat Emptor).  Again I believe all items 
> to be useable, but I have no way of testing. IF there is an item w/ a 
> problem I WILL work w/ you to replace it as best I can, but there are 
> no guarantees.
>  
> When requesting any items, please be as descriptive as possible and 
> if you can / want to include a picture of the item you want that 
> would be helpful.  My experience w/ Micors is limited and this will 
> be somewhat of a learning experience for me.
> 
> I do not have the time, materials or specific knowledge of these 
> items to test them in advance, however I can send pictures of the 
> actual items before shipping for a visual approval.
> 
> I am not a Motorola expert and I am not a HAM, so I cannot provide 
> information as to the operating capabilities of these units. I can 
> provide specific model information and you may research with others 
> that are familiar with this equipment.
> 
> All equipment will be shipped from the Chicago area, based upon ZIP 
> code 60527
> 
> Buyers will pay actual shipping costs, which in some cases will 
> include a few additional dollars to cover the cost of the shipping 
> materials. (boxes, packing material etc)
> 
> Pick up and inspection is available on an appointment basis. If you 
> want to go as far and bring test equipment, feel free.
> 
> First Come First Served and Thank You for your Interest.
>  
> Bob
>

[Repeater-Builder] Re: Another frequency grab.

[tallinson2]

Mike said: "This sound like an un-necessary technical solution for
non-existent problem."

Unfortunately, this is not the case.  Having had family involved in
the medical profession (RN) I was told of several horror stories of
objects being left in patients, in one case resulting in the death of
the patient.  HOWEVER, based on the description of the device's use in
the application filed, I wonder why such a large chunk of spectrum is
being requested.  For such short-duration, enclosed use, I would think
that 0.5Mc or possibly even less would be more than sufficient to
accomplish their needs.  If they were to be assigned a band, say from
909.5 to 910.0 Mc., I would think that that would more than meet the
requirements for that type of application.  I also believe that this
type of argument would carry more weight in responses to the FCC. 
That said, even if they get what they are asking for, I find it hard
to believe that this would produce much potential for interference
given the fact that it would be most likely used in a concrete and
steel building, the radiator would be highly inefficient and
directional, interrogation times would be very brief and overall usage
would not constitute prolonged periods of time.  It's reassuring that
people are keeping an eye on these things but this particular one does
one raise much concern in my own mind.
Tom KB5DPE

--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Mike Morris WA6ILQ
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> While the hams only use the top and bottom megahertz
> of the 900mhz band, and we are secondary there, I think
> we all might be interested in this waiver request of Part 15
> rules for the 902-928 band.
> 
> 
> 
> What's wrong with a pencil and paper tally system that has worked
> since my great grandfather did appendectomies, treated gunshot wounds,
> slipped axe wounds and other surgery on logging camp mess hall tables
> over 90 years ago ? He was a physician that took care of 5 logging camps
> and the surrounding towns in the area around the California-Oregon
border
> from the coast to about 15 miles inland.
> 
> All he had in the way of instruments and drugs was what he could
carry in
> his saddlebags and maybe a pack mule if it was going to be an
extended trip.
> He drafted loggers or other locals as operating help.  And he never
left a
> sponge or an instrument in a patient.
> 
> This sound like an un-necessary technical solution for non-existent
problem.
> 
> We have about 5 weeks to file our comments with the FCC on this one.
> 
> Mike WA6ILQ
>

Re: [Repeater-Builder] Indoor antenna question

[Joe]

I think you had mentioned that you are not too far from the repeater.  
What about connecting 10 feet of really poor shielded coax (aka Radio 
Shack) to the radio with a dummy load on the other end?  This may give 
you enough antenna to work the repeater and still stay within acceptable 
RF emission limits.

Just a thought.

73, Joe, K1ike

Re: [Repeater-Builder] Indoor antenna question

[Bill Lang]

Thanks to everyone who posted a reply.  I should have said that we operate 
VHF-High band. After reading the posts, I began to inspect my office.  My desk 
backs up against an interior wall separating me from a room containing a bunch 
of filing cabinets.  I drilled though the wall, ran some coax through and 
mounted a mobile mag mount on the side of of one of the filing cabinets, 
horizontally, about three feet off the floor. My antenna was a simple 1/4-wave 
VHF whip, which I had in my home garage with all the other old stuff.  The 
filing cabinet made an amazingly effective ground surface and I was able to 
tune the antenna to an fairly low SWR.

I dialed the Kenwood TK-760 mobile back as far as I could so I was measuring an 
not-precise 3-4 watts at the unit's antenna connector. The installation works 
perfectly and my users have commented on the better audio quality.

Thanks again for all the good advice.


Robert Koblish <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:   Chris,
 
 Assuming that you've got a suspended ceiling with steel grid, just get
 a mag mount antenna and stick it upside-down to the grid. Attach the
 feedline to the grid for a couple of feet so it's perpendicular to the
 radiator for 1/4 wavelength or so. And turn down the TX power. That
 close to the repeater, you could even do without the PA, I suspect. So
 if your radio shop has a mobile with a blown PA you might be able to
 give it a home.
 
 I used to operate indoors at home by sticking a mag mount to the top
 of the fridge; a metal file cabinet would serve equally well as a
 groundplane. But you'd have to be careful not to transmit when anyone
 was near the file cabinet.
 
 You could also make a ground plane with an SO239 female connector and
 five 1/4 wavelength scraps of AWG14 solid copper house wire (one for
 the radiator and four as radials). Put a loop in the top of the
 radiator and suspend the antenna from the ceiling grid (or a hook)
 with monofilament line.
 
 Take a piece of coaxial cable, strip the jacket for something over 1/4
 wavelength, spread  the shield braid and fold it back over itself, and
 over the jacket. You've got a coaxial dipole. You need to strip more
 than 1/4 wavelength because the braid shortens as you spread it. Trim
 the braid and the exposed center conductor to 1/4 wavelength each,
 apply tape or shrink tubing, and hang as above. The end of any antenna
 will be a high impedance (hence high voltage) point, so use several
 inches of monofilament to suspend it.
 
 If your office has a window, you may have enough room to make a J-pole
 out of burglar-alarm or copper foil attached to the glass.
 
 Just some ideas.
 
 Bob N3HAT
 
 
   

 __
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam?  Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around 
http://mail.yahoo.com 

Re: [Repeater-Builder] Indoor antenna question

[Kris Kirby]

On Mon, 10 Mar 2008, Chris wrote:
> >From my desk, I often answer radio calls from our four mobile units
> and to do that, I've been using a hand-held radio.  Our repeater is 
> only about 2,000 feet away and that works OK except that the portable 
> has to be on all the time and eventually, the batteries have to be 
> replaced.

Can you get a copper pair to the repeater from your desk?

--
Kris Kirby, KE4AHR  <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
But remember, with no superpowers comes no responsibility. 
--rly

Re: [Repeater-Builder] ICOM FR-3000 / FR-4000 repeater

[Milt]

John,

General setup, I'm not directly familure with this unit.

The Icom needs to operate as a full duplex base radio instead of as a 
repeater.  The internal controller will most likely not be used, unless it 
can provide an ID function.  This might be done via programming or a switch 
(Rpt/Local).

Bring the audio and COS from the Icom receiver to the Doug Hall voter.  Take 
the  audio output of the voter and PTT and feed to the Icom transmitter.

Good Luck

Milton Engle
N3LTQ
M&D Technical Services, LLC



- Original Message - 
From: "John" <99-1nwecs.org2@>
To: 
Sent: Tuesday, March 11, 2008 4:27 PM
Subject: [Repeater-Builder] ICOM FR-3000 / FR-4000 repeater


>I have an Icom FR-3000 repeater in use. I would like to add a Doug Hall
> signal to noise voter. I am not sure how to interface the voter into
> the repeater. I have COR and audio coming from my other receivers into
> the voter. My question is how to break out the receiver from the
> repeater, send it out to the voter, and send the voted signal back into
> the repeater activating the repeater controller & transmitter? Can this
> be done using the internal repeater controller of the Icom? Should I
> use an external controller? I have the Icom instruction manual. It
> gives some pin-out information but doesn't seem to have what I am
> looking for. Is there a detailed service manual for these? Does someone
> have a copy they can send me? I tried contacting Icom but the systems
> people were not available to offer any assistance.
>
> Thanks in advance,
> John Liguori
> Sparta Twp NJ
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>

Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Repeater input getting interference FROM a TV?

[Ron Wright]

Mike,

Maybe you've tried this, but taking an HT on your input freq and sniffing 
around the TV might give idea of where it is coming from.  Might be on power 
cord or antenna. 

If on power lead could put simple inline wrap cord around choke.  Would act as 
low pass filter.

On antenna lead might need a simple notch using a piece of 1/4 wavelength RG59 
tuned to your input freq with T connector.  Simple to make and sure it would 
blend in nicely.

73, ron, n9ee/r



>From: raritansailor <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>Date: 2008/03/12 Wed AM 05:59:01 CDT
>To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
>Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Repeater input getting interference FROM a TV?

>  
>Unfortunately the TV belongs to the folks who are allowing us to use 
>the site for free. I really dont want to bend their noses :-)
>
>I've discussed replacing the TV, but they're not keen on that answer.
>
>Yes, I am a bit gun shy WRT ripping into their set, I hope some 
>chokes on the leads buy me something!
>
>Thanks!
>
>Mike
>
>--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, George Henry <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> 
>wrote:
>>
>> Be VERY careful about doing the work on someone else's property...  
>there are liability issues!  (If their TV catches on fire down the 
>road, guess who they'll come after)
>> 
>> Best bet is to offer suggestions such as Jeff posted, even offer to 
>pay for the filters, but the bottom line is that it is 100% the 
>responsibility of the owner of the interfering device to eliminate 
>the interference or discontinue the use of the device, when 
>interference occurs to a licensed service.  Send 'em to the ARRL 
>website:  lots of good information for consumers there, and the FCC 
>even directs people there!
>> 
>> You might even want to print out the FCC warning letter that went 
>out to the owner of a TV set that was interfering with the EPIRB 
>satellite system recently.  That oughta scare 'em into doing the 
>right thing!
>> 
>> George, KA3HSW / WQGJ413
>> 
>> -Original Message-
>> >From: Jeff DePolo <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>> >Sent: Mar 11, 2008 9:34 AM
>> >To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
>> >Subject: RE: [Repeater-Builder] Repeater input getting 
>interference FROM a TV?
>> >
>> >> Any Ideas how to stop the noise at the TV?
>> >> 
>> >> Regards, N3EAQ
>> >
>> >The most direct solution is obvious: replace the TV.
>> >
>> >If that's not an option, try choking the coax/video and power 
>cords going
>> >into the TV with ferrites.  Pick a mix that provides optimum 
>attenuation at
>> >VHF.  You might also try disconnecting the coax or video/audio 
>cables from
>> >the TV and see if that changes the severity of the interference; 
>might give
>> >you a clue.
>> >
>> >If that doesn't seem to improve it, it's probably radiating 
>through the TV's
>> >plastic chassis.  You can experiment with lining the inside of the 
>cabinet
>> >with EMI/RFI shielding foil or spray-on shielding products, but if 
>you have
>> >to go that far, and with the final results potentially still not 
>being
>> >acceptable, the direct solution first proposed above is probably 
>the best
>> >way to go...
>> >
>> >--- Jeff WN3A
>>
>
>


Ron Wright, N9EE
727-376-6575
MICRO COMPUTER CONCEPTS
Owner 146.64 repeater Tampa Bay, FL
No tone, all are welcome.

Re: [Repeater-Builder] Micor UHF Repeater Parts

[Ron Wright]

Bob,

I would be interested in the amp/trippler units.  Let me know.  $10 is fine.  
How many you got???

73, ron, n9ee/r



>From: bbfmrf <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>Date: 2008/03/11 Tue AM 11:53:42 CDT
>To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
>Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Micor UHF Repeater Parts

>  
>I have a number of UHF Micor repeaters that I wish to move.  I have 
>tried selling them as a whole, but response was not positive, (mainly 
>due to shipping expense), so here is the new deal:
>
>I will dismantle and sell ANY item on the repeater for $5 EACH, (Only 
>exception is the Low Power Amp, for which I request $10) plus 
>shipping.  (If multiple items are purchased, there will only be the 
>one shipping charge for all items included in the package).
> 
>I will stand firm at $5 each just to simplify matters.  Cards will be 
>included in this offer.  I have too many to list, so if you are 
>looking for something, please send a request and preferably a part # 
>and I will respond w/ the closest match I can find.  
> 
>(FYI, I have a LOT of cards from MSY repeaters and am not aware of 
>the differences, but if you want or can use any of those, the price 
>will be $2.00 per card for the MSY stuff)
> 
>All items are sold AS IS, (Caveat Emptor).  Again I believe all items 
>to be useable, but I have no way of testing. IF there is an item w/ a 
>problem I WILL work w/ you to replace it as best I can, but there are 
>no guarantees.
> 
>When requesting any items, please be as descriptive as possible and 
>if you can / want to include a picture of the item you want that 
>would be helpful.  My experience w/ Micors is limited and this will 
>be somewhat of a learning experience for me.
>
>I do not have the time, materials or specific knowledge of these 
>items to test them in advance, however I can send pictures of the 
>actual items before shipping for a visual approval.
>
>I am not a Motorola expert and I am not a HAM, so I cannot provide 
>information as to the operating capabilities of these units. I can 
>provide specific model information and you may research with others 
>that are familiar with this equipment.
>
>All equipment will be shipped from the Chicago area, based upon ZIP 
>code 60527
>
>Buyers will pay actual shipping costs, which in some cases will 
>include a few additional dollars to cover the cost of the shipping 
>materials. (boxes, packing material etc)
>
>Pick up and inspection is available on an appointment basis. If you 
>want to go as far and bring test equipment, feel free.
>
>First Come First Served and Thank You for your Interest.
> 
>Bob
>
>


Ron Wright, N9EE
727-376-6575
MICRO COMPUTER CONCEPTS
Owner 146.64 repeater Tampa Bay, FL
No tone, all are welcome.

[Repeater-Builder] Re: Repeater input getting interference FROM a TV?

[Laryn Lohman]

Yeah I wouldn't have expected the bandpass filter to help with this.

Does it happen when the TV is tuned to a certain channel?  All TVs
have a local oscillator.  But even if it turns out to be the local
oscillator, it probably will not be easy to fix or even reduce.

Laryn K8TVZ


--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, "raritansailor" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
wrote:
>
> Hi Folks,
> 
> Here's a new one for me. In the same building as one of
> our repeaters there's a Sony TV hooked up to Dish/Echostar.
> The repeater is on 147.345/945. When anyone turns on the 
> Sony TV hash is produced on the repeater input and locks
> up (keys) the repeater. It does not matter if the sat rcvr
> is on, off, powered off, or disconnected. The TV itself 
> is producing the RFI. 
> 
> I put a DCI bandpass filter on the repeater input, but no joy!
> Yes, it would probably help if there was a PL on, but all that 
> would do is keep the repeater from keying, not stop the noise 
> if it was in use, or stop it from being "desensed" by the noise. 
> (or at best the recieve ability dergraded).
> 
> Any Ideas how to stop the noise at the TV?
> 
> Regards, N3EAQ
>

[Repeater-Builder] Re: Repeater input getting interference FROM a TV?

[raritansailor]

All very good suggestions! I can, and will set-up a time with them to 
try these things out!


--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, "wb7cjq" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> This might sound too simplistic, after reading some of the other 
> responses.  Is the TV grounded???  A lot of them just have a 
> polarized AC plug, not a grounded (3-pin) plug.  AND, along the 
same 
> lines, is the AC outlet grounded???  I've found several 3-
> pin "grounded" outlets in our house that have only a 2 conductor 
> cable feeding them!!!  Might be worth a look.
> 
> If the TV is looking for a ground, and assuming the dish is 
properly 
> installed (grounded), then the TV might well use the coax shield as 
a 
> ground, and at that point the coax shield could potentially radiate 
> the Sony's internal noises right to the roof.  This would be easy 
> enough to check with a VOM and a cooperative owner.
> 
> Would it be possible to disconnect everything but power from the TV 
> and see what happens???  Not to get too radical here, but could you 
> perhaps wrap the TV in 'grounded' tin-foil for a couple of minutes 
> and see if that knocks the interference down to below your noise 
> threshold???  That would be quick and dirty, but it might well save 
> you a lot of grief in putzing around with someone else's TV.
> 
> Could you move the TV to a different foom for testing?  Or perhaps 
> run an extension cord and power it from a different outlet?  Just 
to 
> start crossing things off of the "list"...
> 
> What about taking a walkie to the TV and "snoop" your repeater 
input 
> frequency and try to localize the source of the noise?  You might 
get 
> lucky and be able to determine if the noise is going out via the AC 
> mains, or is actually being radiated from internal component that 
is 
> trying to be a 2-meter antenna.
> 
> 73,
> 
> Dave.
> 
> --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, "raritansailor"  
> wrote:
> >
> > Hi Folks,
> > 
> > Here's a new one for me. In the same building as one of
> > our repeaters there's a Sony TV hooked up to Dish/Echostar.
> > The repeater is on 147.345/945. When anyone turns on the 
> > Sony TV hash is produced on the repeater input and locks
> > up (keys) the repeater. It does not matter if the sat rcvr
> > is on, off, powered off, or disconnected. The TV itself 
> > is producing the RFI. 
> > 
> > I put a DCI bandpass filter on the repeater input, but no joy!
> > Yes, it would probably help if there was a PL on, but all that 
> > would do is keep the repeater from keying, not stop the noise 
> > if it was in use, or stop it from being "desensed" by the noise. 
> > (or at best the recieve ability dergraded).
> > 
> > Any Ideas how to stop the noise at the TV?
> > 
> > Regards, N3EAQ
> >
>

[Repeater-Builder] Re: Repeater input getting interference FROM a TV?

[raritansailor]

Unfortunately the TV belongs to the folks who are allowing us to use 
the site for free. I really dont want to bend their noses :-)

I've discussed replacing the TV, but they're not keen on that answer.

Yes, I am a bit gun shy WRT ripping into their set, I hope some 
chokes on the leads buy me something!

Thanks!

Mike

--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, George Henry <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> 
wrote:
>
> Be VERY careful about doing the work on someone else's property...  
there are liability issues!  (If their TV catches on fire down the 
road, guess who they'll come after)
> 
> Best bet is to offer suggestions such as Jeff posted, even offer to 
pay for the filters, but the bottom line is that it is 100% the 
responsibility of the owner of the interfering device to eliminate 
the interference or discontinue the use of the device, when 
interference occurs to a licensed service.  Send 'em to the ARRL 
website:  lots of good information for consumers there, and the FCC 
even directs people there!
> 
> You might even want to print out the FCC warning letter that went 
out to the owner of a TV set that was interfering with the EPIRB 
satellite system recently.  That oughta scare 'em into doing the 
right thing!
> 
> George, KA3HSW / WQGJ413
> 
> -Original Message-
> >From: Jeff DePolo <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> >Sent: Mar 11, 2008 9:34 AM
> >To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
> >Subject: RE: [Repeater-Builder] Repeater input getting 
interference FROM a TV?
> >
> >> Any Ideas how to stop the noise at the TV?
> >> 
> >> Regards, N3EAQ
> >
> >The most direct solution is obvious: replace the TV.
> >
> >If that's not an option, try choking the coax/video and power 
cords going
> >into the TV with ferrites.  Pick a mix that provides optimum 
attenuation at
> >VHF.  You might also try disconnecting the coax or video/audio 
cables from
> >the TV and see if that changes the severity of the interference; 
might give
> >you a clue.
> >
> >If that doesn't seem to improve it, it's probably radiating 
through the TV's
> >plastic chassis.  You can experiment with lining the inside of the 
cabinet
> >with EMI/RFI shielding foil or spray-on shielding products, but if 
you have
> >to go that far, and with the final results potentially still not 
being
> >acceptable, the direct solution first proposed above is probably 
the best
> >way to go...
> >
> > --- Jeff WN3A
>

Re: [Repeater-Builder] Indoor antenna question

[Mel Farrer]

Hi Chris,  

You might also check the rear of the wood desk.  Mine about 39 inches across 
between the side drawers.  I would make an appropriate band simple dipole of 
copper tape and adhere it to the inside up off the floor out of the way of any 
metal.  You can use thumbtacks to hold the ends to the wood and where you 
attach the coax.  Use a phone line clip to hold the coax against the wood back. 
 Dial the power down to 5-10 watts and any VSWR that you might have will not 
hurt the radio.

Mel K6KBE

- Original Message 
From: Bill Lang <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tuesday, March 11, 2008 4:01:04 PM
Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Indoor antenna question

  Paul,

Yes I have an AC power supply but sometimes, when we are busy, my handheld 
disappears.

My desk is wood and so is much of the surrounding office.  My concern is 
damaging the transmitter of a locally mounted mobile unit with the wrong 
antenna.

Chris

Paul Plack <[EMAIL PROTECTED] net> wrote:
 
Chris, UHF or VHF? Is your desk wood, steel, or non-ferrous  metal?
  
 Have you considered an AC power supply for the  handheld?
  
- Original Message - 
   From:Chris
   To: Repeater-Builder@ yahoogroups. com
   Sent: Monday, March 10, 2008 4:00  PM
   Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Indoorantenna question
   

  From my desk, I often answer radio calls from our four mobile units
andto do that, I've been using a hand-held radio. Our repeater is
only about2,000 feet away and that works OK except that the portable
has to be on allthe time and eventually, the batteries have to be
replaced.

What I'dlike to do is to mount a mobile radio - with appropriate DC
power - on ornear my desk. We have several extra Kenwood TK-760s and
I could use one ofthose, dialed back to 5 or 10 watts.

My question is what kind ofantenna to use? I need something that I
can mount under my desk. This iscommercial service so the duty cycle
is fairly low. Is there an antennathat would work in this application?



 
 

 
  
Be a better friend, newshound, and know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile.  Try it now.

  











  

Never miss a thing.  Make Yahoo your home page. 
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Re: [Repeater-Builder] Indoor antenna question

[Mel Farrer]

Hi Chris,  

You might also check the rear of the wood desk.  Mine about 39 inches across 
between the side drawers.  I would make an appropriate band simple dipole of 
copper tape and adhere it to the inside up off the floor out of the way of any 
metal.  You can use thumbtacks to hold the ends to the wood and where you 
attach the coax.  Use a phone line clip to hold the coax against the wood back. 
 Dial the power down to 5-10 watts and any VSWR that you might have will not 
hurt the radio.

Mel K6KBE

- Original Message 
From: Bill Lang <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tuesday, March 11, 2008 4:01:04 PM
Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Indoor antenna question

  Paul,

Yes I have an AC power supply but sometimes, when we are busy, my handheld 
disappears.

My desk is wood and so is much of the surrounding office.  My concern is 
damaging the transmitter of a locally mounted mobile unit with the wrong 
antenna.

Chris

Paul Plack <[EMAIL PROTECTED] net> wrote:
 
Chris, UHF or VHF? Is your desk wood, steel, or non-ferrous  metal?
  
 Have you considered an AC power supply for the  handheld?
  
- Original Message - 
   From:Chris
   To: Repeater-Builder@ yahoogroups. com
   Sent: Monday, March 10, 2008 4:00  PM
   Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Indoorantenna question
   

  From my desk, I often answer radio calls from our four mobile units
andto do that, I've been using a hand-held radio. Our repeater is
only about2,000 feet away and that works OK except that the portable
has to be on allthe time and eventually, the batteries have to be
replaced.

What I'dlike to do is to mount a mobile radio - with appropriate DC
power - on ornear my desk. We have several extra Kenwood TK-760s and
I could use one ofthose, dialed back to 5 or 10 watts.

My question is what kind ofantenna to use? I need something that I
can mount under my desk. This iscommercial service so the duty cycle
is fairly low. Is there an antennathat would work in this application?



 
 

 
  
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[Repeater-Builder] ICOM FR-3000 / FR-4000 repeater

[John]

I have an Icom FR-3000 repeater in use. I would like to add a Doug Hall 
signal to noise voter. I am not sure how to interface the voter into 
the repeater. I have COR and audio coming from my other receivers into 
the voter. My question is how to break out the receiver from the 
repeater, send it out to the voter, and send the voted signal back into 
the repeater activating the repeater controller & transmitter? Can this 
be done using the internal repeater controller of the Icom? Should I 
use an external controller? I have the Icom instruction manual. It 
gives some pin-out information but doesn't seem to have what I am 
looking for. Is there a detailed service manual for these? Does someone 
have a copy they can send me? I tried contacting Icom but the systems 
people were not available to offer any assistance. 

Thanks in advance,
John Liguori
Sparta Twp NJ

[Repeater-Builder] Micor UHF Repeater Parts

[bbfmrf]

I have a number of UHF Micor repeaters that I wish to move.  I have 
tried selling them as a whole, but response was not positive, (mainly 
due to shipping expense), so here is the new deal:

I will dismantle and sell ANY item on the repeater for $5 EACH, (Only 
exception is the Low Power Amp, for which I request $10) plus 
shipping.  (If multiple items are purchased, there will only be the 
one shipping charge for all items included in the package).
 
I will stand firm at $5 each just to simplify matters.  Cards will be 
included in this offer.  I have too many to list, so if you are 
looking for something, please send a request and preferably a part # 
and I will respond w/ the closest match I can find.  
 
(FYI, I have a LOT of cards from MSY repeaters and am not aware of 
the differences, but if you want or can use any of those, the price 
will be $2.00 per card for the MSY stuff)
 
All items are sold AS IS, (Caveat Emptor).  Again I believe all items 
to be useable, but I have no way of testing. IF there is an item w/ a 
problem I WILL work w/ you to replace it as best I can, but there are 
no guarantees.
 
When requesting any items, please be as descriptive as possible and 
if you can / want to include a picture of the item you want that 
would be helpful.  My experience w/ Micors is limited and this will 
be somewhat of a learning experience for me.

I do not have the time, materials or specific knowledge of these 
items to test them in advance, however I can send pictures of the 
actual items before shipping for a visual approval.

I am not a Motorola expert and I am not a HAM, so I cannot provide 
information as to the operating capabilities of these units. I can 
provide specific model information and you may research with others 
that are familiar with this equipment.

All equipment will be shipped from the Chicago area, based upon ZIP 
code 60527

Buyers will pay actual shipping costs, which in some cases will 
include a few additional dollars to cover the cost of the shipping 
materials. (boxes, packing material etc)

Pick up and inspection is available on an appointment basis. If you 
want to go as far and bring test equipment, feel free.

First Come First Served and Thank You for your Interest.
 
Bob