RE: [Repeater-Builder] Re: We all Love Super 33+ ....

[Barry]

If all else fails a pressure pack of silver paint provides decent protection as 
well..
 Long as it seals 

To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Date: Sat, 23 Aug 2008 20:51:19 -0500
Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Re: We all Love Super 33+ 




















Most of the advice given here about taping antenna connections 
and the 

techniques has been right on. However, I've been using Scotch 88 for sealing 

connectors since about 1970 as it is twice as thick as 33+. Supposedly the 

same material, just thicker.



I was also taught to spray the connections with clear Krylon before and 

after taping. Also, spray it on all the external hardware, nuts and bolts, 

etc. It dries so thin that the hardware can be easily removed but does 

provide protection against corrosion, at least for a few years.



Al, K9SI




  



















_
Win a Nokia E51 with mobile Hotmail SMS alerts  
http://www.livelife.ninemsn.com.au/compIntro.aspx?compId=4589

RE: [Repeater-Builder] We all Love Super 33+ - Was "Antenna connectors sealing instructions"

[Mike Morris WA6ILQ]

At 05:21 PM 08/23/08, you wrote:



--- On Sat, 8/23/08, Richard <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
From: Richard <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: RE: [Repeater-Builder] We all Love Super 33+ - Was "Antenna 
connectors sealing instructions"

To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
Date: Saturday, August 23, 2008, 8:07 PM

Lowes.com at $3.84 a roll. 
http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=productDetail&productId=45849-98-41277



Be sure how much tape is in the roll.  I have seen some of the newer 
stuff have about 50 or so feet instead of the longer 66 feet.  I may 
be off in the number of feet, but some rolls are shorter.  I saw 
that at a hamfest a while back.  I thought the rolls looked smaller.


That's the new economic model - a lot of companies are doing that.
See 



Mike

[Repeater-Builder] Any thoughts on the HYT TR-50 UHF repeater?

[Ray Brown]

  At our local hamfest today, I saw a little critter called the TR-50. I know 
that it's
basically a pair of HT's coupled together with a power supply, but that's as 
much
as I can figure out. It also says it's good from 440 thru 470, and they claim 
it's
type-accepted by the FCC for 12.5 service. The main web page appears to be
out of China (.cn) and it's down at the moment.

  Is it cool or [EMAIL PROTECTED] Other thoughts?

  Thanks!

RayKBØSTN

Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: We all Love Super 33+ ....

[Chuck Kelsey]

88 was supposed to be a better tape for use (applied) in cold weather. 33+ 
still gets my vote overall.

Chuck
WB2EDV



  - Original Message - 
  From: Maire-Radios 
  To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Saturday, August 23, 2008 11:09 PM
  Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: We all Love Super 33+ 


  yes when we did traffic signal installs they always had us use 88 and 
sometimes a gray tape that the phone co had and it was used for a lot of the 
wires that got cover in the ground.


- Original Message - 
From: Al Wolfe 
To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com 
Sent: Saturday, August 23, 2008 9:51 PM
Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Re: We all Love Super 33+ 


Most of the advice given here about taping antenna connections and the 
techniques has been right on. However, I've been using Scotch 88 for 
sealing 
connectors since about 1970 as it is twice as thick as 33+. Supposedly the 
same material, just thicker.

I was also taught to spray the connections with clear Krylon before and 
after taping. Also, spray it on all the external hardware, nuts and bolts, 
etc. It dries so thin that the hardware can be easily removed but does 
provide protection against corrosion, at least for a few years.

Al, K9SI



   

RE: [Repeater-Builder] Re: We all Love Super 33+ ....

[Eric Lemmon]

Yes, the 88 tape is thicker than the 33, but not by much:  8.5 mil versus
7.0 mil.  Here's the info:
http://tinyurl.com/58qmmr

73, Eric Lemmon WB6FLY
 

-Original Message-
From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Saturday, August 23, 2008 7:49 PM
To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: We all Love Super 33+ 

At 8/23/2008 19:23, you wrote:
>Yep. 88 is the thicker version of 33+. However, I prefer the 33+.
>
>Chuck
>WB2EDV

I tried 88 once. For some reason it didn't stick as well as 33+.

Bob NO6B

Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: We all Love Super 33+ ....

[Maire-Radios]

yes when we did traffic signal installs they always had us use 88 and sometimes 
a gray tape that the phone co had and it was used for a lot of the wires that 
got cover in the ground.


  - Original Message - 
  From: Al Wolfe 
  To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Saturday, August 23, 2008 9:51 PM
  Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Re: We all Love Super 33+ 


  Most of the advice given here about taping antenna connections and the 
  techniques has been right on. However, I've been using Scotch 88 for sealing 
  connectors since about 1970 as it is twice as thick as 33+. Supposedly the 
  same material, just thicker.

  I was also taught to spray the connections with clear Krylon before and 
  after taping. Also, spray it on all the external hardware, nuts and bolts, 
  etc. It dries so thin that the hardware can be easily removed but does 
  provide protection against corrosion, at least for a few years.

  Al, K9SI



   

Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: We all Love Super 33+ ....

[no6b]

At 8/23/2008 19:23, you wrote:
>Yep. 88 is the thicker version of 33+. However, I prefer the 33+.
>
>Chuck
>WB2EDV

I tried 88 once.  For some reason it didn't stick as well as 33+.

Bob NO6B

RE: [Repeater-Builder] We all Love Super 33+ - Was "Antenna connectors sealing instructions"

[Richard]

I didn't think of that, although I should have, because that is how
they raise prices these days. That does explain the huge disparity in
prices I saw from a brief search on Amazon.
 
Richard
  www.n7tgb.net

A well regulated militia, being necessary to the security
of a free state, the right of the people to keep and
bear arms shall not be infringed."
 

 

  _  

From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Ralph Mowery
Sent: Saturday, August 23, 2008 5:21 PM
To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [Repeater-Builder] We all Love Super 33+ - Was "Antenna
connectors sealing instructions"






--- On Sat, 8/23/08, Richard <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:



From: Richard <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: RE: [Repeater-Builder] We all Love Super 33+ - Was "Antenna
connectors sealing instructions"
To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
Date: Saturday, August 23, 2008, 8:07 PM


Lowes.com at $3.84 a roll. http://www.lowes.
 com/lowes/lkn?action=productDetail&productId=45849-98-41277
 
 
Be sure how much tape is in the roll.  I have seen some of the newer
stuff have about 50 or so feet instead of the longer 66 feet.  I may
be off in the number of feet, but some rolls are shorter.  I saw that
at a hamfest a while back.  I thought the rolls looked smaller.
 
 


 

Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: We all Love Super 33+ ....

[Chuck Kelsey]

Yep. 88 is the thicker version of 33+. However, I prefer the 33+.

Chuck
WB2EDV



- Original Message - 
From: "Al Wolfe" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: 
Sent: Saturday, August 23, 2008 9:51 PM
Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Re: We all Love Super 33+ 


>Most of the advice given here about taping antenna connections and the
> techniques has been right on. However, I've been using Scotch 88 for 
> sealing
> connectors since about 1970 as it is twice as thick as 33+. Supposedly the
> same material, just thicker.
>
>I was also taught to spray the connections with clear Krylon before and
> after taping. Also, spray it on all the external hardware, nuts and bolts,
> etc. It dries so thin that the hardware can be easily removed but does
> provide protection against corrosion, at least for a few years.
>
> Al, K9SI
>
>
>
>
> 
>
>
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>

[Repeater-Builder] Re: We all Love Super 33+ ....

[Al Wolfe]

Most of the advice given here about taping antenna connections and the 
techniques has been right on. However, I've been using Scotch 88 for sealing 
connectors since about 1970 as it is twice as thick as 33+. Supposedly the 
same material, just thicker.

I was also taught to spray the connections with clear Krylon before and 
after taping. Also, spray it on all the external hardware, nuts and bolts, 
etc. It dries so thin that the hardware can be easily removed but does 
provide protection against corrosion, at least for a few years.

Al, K9SI

RE: [Repeater-Builder] Antenna connectors sealing instructions

[Barry]

Prewrap works ok  but after the years  and thousands of wraps I don't bother , 
removal takes a quick score and a dig , undone and ready for work...
 try a double wrap 20 times a day at 300 ft on a wind blown tower .

To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Date: Sat, 23 Aug 2008 02:47:03 -0700
Subject: RE: [Repeater-Builder] Antenna connectors sealing instructions






















A lot of the rubber tapes melt into the connectors and 

are an absolute PITA to remove a couple of years later.


My preference is to use Scotch 33+ tape and to put two 

layers over the joint, stretching it gently so that it forms 

a very goo d bond to the coax.  THEN I put the rubber 

tape over the Scotch 33+.  When it comes time to remove 

the whole collective seal the 33+ removes very nicely 

from the coax and the connectors. 


(the same trick goes for those that use Coax-Seal or 

similar mastic-based products. Put a layer of good 

quality tape under it and you won't be spending hours 

getting the stuff out of the knurlings of the PL259 or 

type N connectors).


Do NOT use the cheap buck-a-roll black stuff from Home 

Depot or similar - it does not hold up.  Spend the couple 

of dollars extra for the real Scotch 33+ tape.


Mike WA6ILQ


At 10:35 PM 08/22/08, you wrote:

It's very simple , obtain some
self sealing rubber tape from an electrical supplier

1/ tighten as required for mechanical connection

2/ start from the coax wrapping the rubber tape towards the join over the
joint and to the high end of the joint and coax with some over lap , the
tape will seal and water wont gain entry . make sure the finish end is
higher than the start

 easy huh ?

 Takes all of 40 seconds if your slow and careful 



To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com

From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]

Date: Fri, 22 Aug 2008 23:23:01 -0500

Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Antenna connectors sealing
instructions




Hello to the group:

 

Recently there was a post on the proper way to seal inline
coax connectors on a tower to make them weather resistant.

 

As I recall, there was a response from one of the members
that directed the original poster to a major antenna manufacturer which
had instructions in a .pdf on how to seal everything using tape and
sealant.

 

Anyone recall the website?  I'd like to download the
.pdf into my archives for future reference.

 

Any help is welcomed and appreciated.

 

Thanks in advance.

 

'73

 

Don, KD9PT


  



















_
Are you paid what you're worth? Find out: SEEK Salary Centre
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RE: [Repeater-Builder] We all Love Super 33+ - Was"Antenna connectors sealing instructions"

[[EMAIL PROTECTED]]

I used to use Super 33+ and it has been great but. this is the new 
technology. We use this exclusively in our shop. 
http://www.rfsworld.com/websearch/DataSheets/pdf/?q=CTAPE-1


- Original Message - 
From: Eric Lemmon 
To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
Sent: 8/23/2008 8:42:29 PM 
Subject: RE: [Repeater-Builder] We all Love Super 33+ - Was"Antenna connectors 
sealing instructions"


Go to the 3m product page to see the many widths and lengths of Super 33+
tape:
http://tinyurl.com/68jm7g
Click on the "Full Description" link to get the full story.

73, Eric Lemmon WB6FLY


-Original Message-
From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Ralph Mowery
Sent: Saturday, August 23, 2008 5:21 PM
To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [Repeater-Builder] We all Love Super 33+ - Was "Antenna
connectors sealing instructions"

--- On Sat, 8/23/08, Richard <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

From: Richard <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: RE: [Repeater-Builder] We all Love Super 33+ - Was "Antenna
connectors sealing instructions"
To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
Date: Saturday, August 23, 2008, 8:07 PM


Lowes.com at $3.84 a roll.
http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=productDetail&productId=45849-98-41277
 


Be sure how much tape is in the roll. I have seen some of the newer
stuff have about 50 or so feet instead of the longer 66 feet. I may be off
in the number of feet, but some rolls are shorter. I saw that at a hamfest
a while back. I thought the rolls looked smaller.


 
No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com 
Version: 8.0.138 / Virus Database: 270.6.7/1629 - Release Date: 8/23/2008 1:16 
PM<>

nc35349273
Description: nc35349273

RE: [Repeater-Builder] We all Love Super 33+ - Was "Antenna connectors sealing instructions"

[Eric Lemmon]

Go to the 3m product page to see the many widths and lengths of Super 33+
tape:
http://tinyurl.com/68jm7g
Click on the "Full Description" link to get the full story.

73, Eric Lemmon WB6FLY
 

-Original Message-
From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Ralph Mowery
Sent: Saturday, August 23, 2008 5:21 PM
To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [Repeater-Builder] We all Love Super 33+ - Was "Antenna
connectors sealing instructions"



--- On Sat, 8/23/08, Richard <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:


From: Richard <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: RE: [Repeater-Builder] We all Love Super 33+ - Was "Antenna
connectors sealing instructions"
To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
Date: Saturday, August 23, 2008, 8:07 PM


Lowes.com at $3.84 a roll.
http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=productDetail&productId=45849-98-41277
 
 
 
Be sure how much tape is in the roll.  I have seen some of the newer
stuff have about 50 or so feet instead of the longer 66 feet.  I may be off
in the number of feet, but some rolls are shorter.  I saw that at a hamfest
a while back.  I thought the rolls looked smaller.

RE: [Repeater-Builder] We all Love Super 33+ - Was "Antenna connectors sealing instructions"

[Ralph Mowery]

--- On Sat, 8/23/08, Richard <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

From: Richard <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: RE: [Repeater-Builder] We all Love Super 33+ - Was "Antenna connectors 
sealing instructions"
To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
Date: Saturday, August 23, 2008, 8:07 PM



Lowes.com at $3.84 a roll. 
http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=productDetail&productId=45849-98-41277
 
 
Be sure how much tape is in the roll.  I have seen some of the newer stuff have 
about 50 or so feet instead of the longer 66 feet.  I may be off in the number 
of feet, but some rolls are shorter.  I saw that at a hamfest a while back.  I 
thought the rolls looked smaller.
 
 


  

RE: [Repeater-Builder] We all Love Super 33+ - Was "Antenna connectors sealing instructions"

[Richard]

Lowes.com at $3.84 a roll.
http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=productDetail
 &productId=45849-98-41277
 
Richard
  www.n7tgb.net

A well regulated militia, being necessary to the security
of a free state, the right of the people to keep and
bear arms shall not be infringed."
 

 

  _  

From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Chuck Kelsey
Sent: Saturday, August 23, 2008 4:41 PM
To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] We all Love Super 33+ - Was "Antenna
connectors sealing instructions"



Whomever locates the best price, post it here. I've always purchased
at an 
electrical supply house and get a box of ten rolls at a time for a
slightly 
better price. The first box I bought was somewhere around $18.50, so
you can 
see I've been purchasing it for a long time.

Chuck
WB2EDV

- Original Message - 
From: "Ronny Julian" <[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
net>
To: mailto:Repeater-Builder%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Saturday, August 23, 2008 6:59 PM
Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] We all Love Super 33+ - Was "Antenna 
connectors sealing instructions"

> Best mail order source for 33+?
>
> K4RJJ Ronny
> 



 

Re: [Repeater-Builder] We all Love Super 33+ - Was "Antenna connectors sealing instructions"

[Alexandre Souza]

> Whomever locates the best price, post it here. I've always purchased at an
> electrical supply house and get a box of ten rolls at a time for a 
> slightly
> better price. The first box I bought was somewhere around $18.50, so you 
> can
> see I've been purchasing it for a long time.

I'm curious if this is the same scotch tape I see in Brazil. I'll try to 
order a pack to experiment here ;o) 

RE: [Repeater-Builder] We all Love Super 33+ - Was "Antenna connectors sealing instructions"

[n9wys]

OK, let's all open our hymnals to page 85 and sing, "What a friend we have
in 3M".  

 

;-)

 

Mark - N9WYS

 

From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com  On Behalf Of Cort Buffington



Note the common thread here. Almost everyone has 3M 33+ in their recipe. As
"religious" arguments go -- it looks as if this is one thing we all agree on
:)

 

I just spend a few hours cleaning all of the old tape off of the wiring
harnesses on TWO DB-420s. I removed the old, cleaned things up, replaced it
with 33+ and placed aluminum foil tape over it to deflect the UV. While not
the connectors, I followed the same principles so many have mentioned here
for connectors, stretch it, then ease up on the tension when you're about
done wrapping. 

Re: [Repeater-Builder] We all Love Super 33+ - Was "Antenna connectors sealing instructions"

[Chuck Kelsey]

Whomever locates the best price, post it here. I've always purchased at an 
electrical supply house and get a box of ten rolls at a time for a slightly 
better price. The first box I bought was somewhere around $18.50, so you can 
see I've been purchasing it for a long time.

Chuck
WB2EDV


- Original Message - 
From: "Ronny Julian" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: 
Sent: Saturday, August 23, 2008 6:59 PM
Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] We all Love Super 33+ - Was "Antenna 
connectors sealing instructions"


> Best mail order source for 33+?
>
> K4RJJ Ronny
> 

RE: [Repeater-Builder] We all Love Super 33+ - Was "Antenna connectors sealing instructions"

[Richard]

The last time I bought it online was at lowes.com for $3 and something
a roll. Do a Google search to see what comes up, that is what I
usually do.
 
 
Richard
  www.n7tgb.net

A well regulated militia, being necessary to the security
of a free state, the right of the people to keep and
bear arms shall not be infringed."
 

 

  _  

From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Ronny Julian
Sent: Saturday, August 23, 2008 4:00 PM
To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] We all Love Super 33+ - Was "Antenna
connectors sealing instructions"



Best mail order source for 33+?

K4RJJ Ronny



 

RE: [Repeater-Builder] We all Love Super 33+ - Was "Antenna connectors sealing instructions"

[Richard]

Yep, the 33+ is good stuff. I use it both at work and at home. It is
more expensive, but cheaper in the long run.
 
Richard
  www.n7tgb.net

A well regulated militia, being necessary to the security
of a free state, the right of the people to keep and
bear arms shall not be infringed."
 

 

  _  

From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Cort Buffington
Sent: Saturday, August 23, 2008 3:58 PM
To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Repeater-Builder] We all Love Super 33+ - Was "Antenna
connectors sealing instructions"




Note the common thread here. Almost everyone has 3M 33+ in their
recipe. As "religious" arguments go -- it looks as if this is one
thing we all agree on :)

I just spend a few hours cleaning all of the old tape off of the
wiring harnesses on TWO DB-420s. I removed the old, cleaned things up,
replaced it with 33+ and placed aluminum foil tape over it to deflect
the UV. While not the connectors, I followed the same principles so
many have mentioned here for connectors, stretch it, then ease up on
the tension when you're about done wrapping.

On Aug 23, 2008, at 4:47 AM, Mike Morris WA6ILQ wrote:




A lot of the rubber tapes melt into the connectors and 
are an absolute PITA to remove a couple of years later.

My preference is to use Scotch 33+ tape and to put two 
layers over the joint, stretching it gently so that it forms 
a very goo d bond to the coax.  THEN I put the rubber 
tape over the Scotch 33+.  When it comes time to remove 
the whole collective seal the 33+ removes very nicely 
from the coax and the connectors. 

(the same trick goes for those that use Co ax-Seal or 
similar mastic-based products. Put a layer of good 
quality tape under it and you won't be spending hours 
getting the stuff out of the knurlings of the PL259 or 
type N connectors).

Do NOT use the cheap buck-a-roll black stuff from Home 
Depot or similar - it does not hold up.  Spend the couple 
of dollars extra for the real Scotch 33+ tape.

Mike WA6ILQ

At 10:35 PM 08/22/08, you wrote:


It's very simple , obtain some self sealing rubber tape from an
electrical supplier
1/ tighten as required for mechanical connection
2/ start from the coax wrapping the rubber tape towards the join over
the joint and to the high end of the joint and coax with some over lap
, the tape will seal and water wont gain entry . make sure the finish
end is higher than the start
 easy huh ?
 Takes all of 40 seconds if your slow and careful 


  _  

To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Date: Fri, 22 Aug 2008 23:23:01 -0500
Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Antenna connectors sealing instructions


Hello to the group:
 
Recently there was a post on the proper way to seal inline coax
connectors on a tower to make them weather resistant.
 
As I recall, there was a response from one of the members that
directed the original poster to a major antenna manufacturer which had
instructions in a .pdf on how to seal everything using tape and
sealant.
 
Anyone recall the website?  I'd like to download the .pdf into my
archives for future reference.
 
Any help is welcomed and appreciated.
 
Thanks in advance.
 
'73
 
Don, KD9PT





--
Cort Buffington
H: +1-785-838-3034
M: +1-785-865-7206





 

Re: [Repeater-Builder] We all Love Super 33+ - Was "Antenna connectors sealing instructions"

[Ronny Julian]

Best mail order source for 33+?

K4RJJ Ronny

[Repeater-Builder] We all Love Super 33+ - Was "Antenna connectors sealing instructions"

[Cort Buffington]

Note the common thread here. Almost everyone has 3M 33+ in their  
recipe. As "religious" arguments go -- it looks as if this is one  
thing we all agree on :)


I just spend a few hours cleaning all of the old tape off of the  
wiring harnesses on TWO DB-420s. I removed the old, cleaned things up,  
replaced it with 33+ and placed aluminum foil tape over it to deflect  
the UV. While not the connectors, I followed the same principles so  
many have mentioned here for connectors, stretch it, then ease up on  
the tension when you're about done wrapping.


On Aug 23, 2008, at 4:47 AM, Mike Morris WA6ILQ wrote:


A lot of the rubber tapes melt into the connectors and
are an absolute PITA to remove a couple of years later.

My preference is to use Scotch 33+ tape and to put two
layers over the joint, stretching it gently so that it forms
a very goo d bond to the coax.  THEN I put the rubber
tape over the Scotch 33+.  When it comes time to remove
the whole collective seal the 33+ removes very nicely
from the coax and the connectors.

(the same trick goes for those that use Coax-Seal or
similar mastic-based products. Put a layer of good
quality tape under it and you won't be spending hours
getting the stuff out of the knurlings of the PL259 or
type N connectors).

Do NOT use the cheap buck-a-roll black stuff from Home
Depot or similar - it does not hold up.  Spend the couple
of dollars extra for the real Scotch 33+ tape.

Mike WA6ILQ

At 10:35 PM 08/22/08, you wrote:

It's very simple , obtain some self sealing rubber tape from an  
electrical supplier

1/ tighten as required for mechanical connection
2/ start from the coax wrapping the rubber tape towards the join  
over the joint and to the high end of the joint and coax with some  
over lap , the tape will seal and water wont gain entry . make sure  
the finish end is higher than the start

 easy huh ?
 Takes all of 40 seconds if your slow and careful

To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Date: Fri, 22 Aug 2008 23:23:01 -0500
Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Antenna connectors sealing instructions


Hello to the group:

Recently there was a post on the proper way to seal inline coax  
connectors on a tower to make them weather resistant.


As I recall, there was a response from one of the members that  
directed the original poster to a major antenna manufacturer which  
had instructions in a .pdf on how to seal everything using tape and  
sealant.


Anyone recall the website?  I'd like to download the .pdf into my  
archives for future reference.


Any help is welcomed and appreciated.

Thanks in advance.

'73

Don, KD9PT





--
Cort Buffington
H: +1-785-838-3034
M: +1-785-865-7206

RE: [Repeater-Builder] Antenna connectors sealing instructions

[Mike Morris WA6ILQ]

A lot of the rubber tapes melt into the connectors and
are an absolute PITA to remove a couple of years later.

My preference is to use Scotch 33+ tape and to put two
layers over the joint, stretching it gently so that it forms
a very goo d bond to the coax.  THEN I put the rubber
tape over the Scotch 33+.  When it comes time to remove
the whole collective seal the 33+ removes very nicely
from the coax and the connectors.

(the same trick goes for those that use Coax-Seal or
similar mastic-based products. Put a layer of good
quality tape under it and you won't be spending hours
getting the stuff out of the knurlings of the PL259 or
type N connectors).

Do NOT use the cheap buck-a-roll black stuff from Home
Depot or similar - it does not hold up.  Spend the couple
of dollars extra for the real Scotch 33+ tape.

Mike WA6ILQ

At 10:35 PM 08/22/08, you wrote:
It's very simple , obtain some self sealing rubber tape from an 
electrical supplier

1/ tighten as required for mechanical connection
2/ start from the coax wrapping the rubber tape towards the join 
over the joint and to the high end of the joint and coax with some 
over lap , the tape will seal and water wont gain entry . make sure 
the finish end is higher than the start

 easy huh ?
 Takes all of 40 seconds if your slow and careful


--
To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Date: Fri, 22 Aug 2008 23:23:01 -0500
Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Antenna connectors sealing instructions


Hello to the group:

Recently there was a post on the proper way to seal inline coax 
connectors on a tower to make them weather resistant.


As I recall, there was a response from one of the members that 
directed the original poster to a major antenna manufacturer which 
had instructions in a .pdf on how to seal everything using tape and sealant.


Anyone recall the website?  I'd like to download the .pdf into my 
archives for future reference.


Any help is welcomed and appreciated.

Thanks in advance.

'73

Don, KD9PT

RE: [Repeater-Builder] De-Sense and Circulator Question

[KD4PBC]

John, 

Sounds like you have it under control. The RG-400 type if new most likely is
OK. It’s only after a few years that moisture will get in and cause a
non-linear junction and cause problems.

There are thousands of repeaters running just the same as you have and
working well. I really expect that you will find the problem with the
duplexer and nothing else. 

 

Good luck, 

Robert / KD4PBC  

 

From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of John Transue
Sent: Saturday, August 23, 2008 12:09 PM
To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
Cc: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: RE: [Repeater-Builder] De-Sense and Circulator Question

 

Robert,

 

Thank you. Your suggestions are very reasonable. I hope to find a spectrum
analyzer to verify that the output of the repeater and PA are clean. 

 

I just had the duplexer tuned a few weeks ago but I realize this does not
guarantee that is it’s tuned properly now or that the duplexer has the
isolation that it is supposed to have. When it was tuned, there was no
careful check of the isolation. 

 

I have just replaced all the interconnecting cables with RG-400, one of the
types that has wide acceptance from Repeater Builder correspondents. I don’t
want to replace them with Superflex until other possibilities are exhausted.


 

Adding a circulator (isolator perhaps) to the output of the PA: I don’t
understand how this would help the de-sense. It would protect the PA from a
badly tuned duplexer. Hold on! Now that I re-read your email, I see that the
circulator would prevent a signal received at a close-by frequency from
mixing with the output of the PA. But wouldn’t the mixing already have taken
place in the duplexer?  Perhaps, being a passive component, the duplexer
can’t be the site of mixing?

 

Yes, I am becoming convinced that the duplexer we have is not up to the job.
I guess it would be good to get it on a vector network analyzer or other
suitable instrument to verify that its isolation is or is not adequate. 

 

Our frequency pair is 448.375 TX and 443.375 RX. I would have to check for
near-by repeater frequencies. I doubt that this is the problem though
because the 440 repeaters around here have a rather low duty cycle, and our
problem seems to be continuous. Also, we still have de-sense when testing
into a dummy load. 

 

Your suggestions and explanations are very helpful, Robert. Please stick
with us. Sooner or later we are going to get this repeater working properly.

 

John

AF4PD

Vienna Wireless Society

 

 

 

-Original Message-
From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of KD4PBC
Sent: Wednesday, August 20, 2008 1:16 PM
To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [Repeater-Builder] De-Sense and Circulator Question

 

John, 

 

Assuming that the output of the repeater and amp are clean. 

This would be my suggestions do this in order to avoid spending any more
than needed. 

 

1)  Verify clean output from TX and amp.

2)  Verify tuning on the duplexer. 

 Both of these are most likely fine. 

3)  Replace all interconnect cables with ¼ of ½ superflex

4)  Add circulator to the output of Amp (dual at least maybe even a
triple) 

5)  Replace duplexer with something from this century. 

 

I read the post about the spur from adding a cavity to the tx output . the
only way that should happed is if there is a problem in the amp in the 1st
place.  

Any RF that makes it back through the transmit side of the duplexer can mix
with your frequency and anything else that can get in there. An isolator is
like an RF diode with a drain. 

Anything that comes toward your  amp from the outside will be diverted into
a dummy load (drain)  to be burned off as heat. 

You did not say what frequency that you are operating on but how close in
frequency are the nearest repeaters ?

And example if is you are on 464.025 and there is another repeater on
464.050 then your duplexer no matter how good offers no protection itself
that would be the isolators job. 

 

I hope this was helpful and while yes I do have some stuff available my post
is to be helpful not sell stuff. 

 

Regards, 

Robert Mitchell

 

 

From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of John Transue
Sent: Wednesday, August 20, 2008 11:37 AM
To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [Repeater-Builder] De-Sense and Circulator Question

 

First a big thank you to Eric, David, Rodney, and Robert. It seems clear now
that a circulator is not what I need. I plan to re-tune a pass cavity and
put it on the TX side as suggested by Eric. David has warned of the
possibility that this can cause a spur that might interfere with another
system so I will try to have a spectrum analyzer look at the output.

 

Robert asked for some additional information. Here it is:

RG-400 (new) in the cabinet, RG-214 (new) to the Heliax feed line.

The RF environment is intense. I do not

[Repeater-Builder] Re: Rackmount clips/screws

[travis8303]

Doug,
 
The clips are called a variety of names.

The ones I purchased, after some research, were called "Rack Cage Nut 
Slide On" :)

Item number for a hunderd of each:
3303 for the screws with washers, 10-32 by 3/4" black steel
The durable little plastic washers protect the equipment and give it 
a finished look.
9306 for the cage nut, silver/metal colored

Both of them are nice quality, not the best but nice and the cost is 
very reasonable.
They look good in the rack, they stay put, they tighten nicely, they 
are removable and still work.
http://www.stayonline.com/rack-cage-nuts.aspx

Stay Online
3301 Bramer Drive
Raleigh, NC 27604
(919) 510-5464

Ordered items showed up within a few days.
This site also has a lot of neat items for cable management, racks, 
shelves, etc.

For me, how I am treated and the quality of merchandise I receive is 
what warrants being passed on for others to enjoy.

73's group
Tnks for being here.
Travis
AA9NV


--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, "souryatlexcomincdotnet" 
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> Hello Everyone,
> Does anybody have a source for the spring clips and screws for the 
> rackmount cabinet rails.
> Either type (that was used with the GE and Motorola cabinets) will 
> work. What few I have are used up and needing additional to mount 
more 
> equipment.
> 
> 73 and thanks,
> Doug
> N4TZD
>

[Repeater-Builder] Andrew DB230-C Antenna

[Eric Lemmon]

I need to replace a damaged 6m repeater antenna, and I would like to
purchase a new Andrew (Decibel Products) DB230-C antenna.  This is a
three-element Yagi antenna for the 46-50 MHz band.  It can be field-trimmed
for optimum performance at 6m.  Unfortunately,  It has been discontinued by
my favorite suppliers of commercial antennas, so I am hopeful of finding a
dealer that still has one in stock- a long shot, perhaps, but I have to
exhaust my search for a DB230-C before considering any other brands or
models- most of which are flimsy by comparison.

If you know of a dealer who has this brand and this exact model in stock,
please advise me directly at my call at verizon dot net.  Thanks!

73, Eric Lemmon WB6FLY

Re: [Repeater-Builder] Rackmount clips/screws

[Rob]

Check out Parts Express:


$4.99 for qty=10



- Rob


n9wys wrote:
> My 2¢ worth...
> 
> I have heard these referred to as "Speed Nuts".  McMaster-Carr shows the
> ones I am familiar with in their catalog, calling them “U-style clip-on
> nuts”.  (I found them by doing a search for "speed nuts".)  These are
> designed to use sheet metal-type screws, which is what I usually see in
> radio cabinet rails.
> 
> Mark - N9WYS
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com On Behalf Of no6b
> 
> At 8/22/2008 23:50, you wrote:
>> The clips are called tinerman clips and I have found them at auto parts 
>> stores but I think they are a little spendey.
> 
> The ones that are threaded for machine screws are called cage nuts.
> 
> http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cage_nut  
> 
> 10-32 would be the best thread size to use, since it's a defacto 19" rack 
> mount standard.  I've also seen racks tapped with 12-24, but that screw 
> size isn't as easy to find.
> 
> Bob NO6B
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yahoo! Groups Links
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com 
> Version: 8.0.138 / Virus Database: 270.6.7/1629 - Release Date: 8/23/2008 
> 1:16 PM
> 
> 
> 






Yahoo! Groups Links

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Re: [Repeater-Builder] Antenna connectors sealing instructions

[Nate Duehr]

On Aug 22, 2008, at 10:23 PM, Don Kupferschmidt wrote:

> Hello to the group:
>
> Recently there was a post on the proper way to seal inline coax  
> connectors on a tower to make them weather resistant.

You're going to get a lot of replies, this is almost a "religious"  
debate -- various camps... various methods.

--
Nate Duehr
[EMAIL PROTECTED]

RE: [Repeater-Builder] De-Sense and Circulator Question

[Eric Lemmon]

John,

As I and several others have noted earlier, the Motorola T-1500-series
duplexers are barely adequate even with a 5 MHz split.  Nevertheless,
Motorola shipped thousands of Micor repeater stations with this duplexer,
and they worked fine.  But, keep in mind that a Micor 75-100 watt PA was a
very good design and far more stable and noise-free than most aftermarket
power amplifiers.  The crystal-controlled Micor exciters are inherently less
noisy than the synthesized exciters used in newer and less-expensive
repeaters.  The extremely sharp, crystal-controlled Micor receivers were
better able to shrug off nearby carriers or noise than many- if not most-
modern synthesized receivers.

Even if your T-1500-series duplexer is optimally tuned, you can possibly
improve its performance a bit by using adhesive-backed aluminum tape to
cover the slots where the loop and probe adjustments penetrate the side
walls of the cavities.  The metal tape will eliminate a possible leakage
path through the slots.  Your jumper cables should be made of RG-400/U or
RG-214/U cable with the proper connectors on each end- no adapters.
Crimped-on, silver-plated connectors are more reliable than those that are
soldered or clamped.

Please confirm that the bandpass cavity you are going to put on the transmit
side is a true bandpass cavity filter and not a pass-notch cavity.  A
pass-notch cavity has a very broad bandpass response; a bandpass (only)
cavity is much sharper.

One possibility that has not been mentioned yet is that the cables inside
the Yaesu FTR-5410 itself might be leaky.  I have a Yaesu/Vertex VXR-5000
GMRS repeater that originally suffered from a small amount of desense.  I
found that single-shield cable was used inside the cabinet to connect the
internal receiver and PA output modules to the bulkhead connectors on the
cabinet wall.  Even though these in-cabinet factory jumpers were barely six
inches long, they leaked enough to impair the performance of the repeater.
Once I upgraded the internal jumpers to RG-400/U cable, the desense was
gone.

73, Eric Lemmon WB6FLY
 

-Original Message-
From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of John Transue
Sent: Saturday, August 23, 2008 9:09 AM
To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
Cc: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: RE: [Repeater-Builder] De-Sense and Circulator Question

Robert,

 

Thank you. Your suggestions are very reasonable. I hope to find a spectrum
analyzer to verify that the output of the repeater and PA are clean. 

 

I just had the duplexer tuned a few weeks ago but I realize this does not
guarantee that is it’s tuned properly now or that the duplexer has the
isolation that it is supposed to have. When it was tuned, there was no
careful check of the isolation. 

 

I have just replaced all the interconnecting cables with RG-400, one of the
types that has wide acceptance from Repeater Builder correspondents. I don’t
want to replace them with Superflex until other possibilities are exhausted.


 

Adding a circulator (isolator perhaps) to the output of the PA: I don’t
understand how this would help the de-sense. It would protect the PA from a
badly tuned duplexer. Hold on! Now that I re-read your email, I see that the
circulator would prevent a signal received at a close-by frequency from
mixing with the output of the PA. But wouldn’t the mixing already have taken
place in the duplexer?  Perhaps, being a passive component, the duplexer
can’t be the site of mixing?

 

Yes, I am becoming convinced that the duplexer we have is not up to the job.
I guess it would be good to get it on a vector network analyzer or other
suitable instrument to verify that its isolation is or is not adequate. 

 

Our frequency pair is 448.375 TX and 443.375 RX. I would have to check for
near-by repeater frequencies. I doubt that this is the problem though
because the 440 repeaters around here have a rather low duty cycle, and our
problem seems to be continuous. Also, we still have de-sense when testing
into a dummy load. 

 

Your suggestions and explanations are very helpful, Robert. Please stick
with us. Sooner or later we are going to get this repeater working properly.

 

John

AF4PD

Vienna Wireless Society

 

 

 

-Original Message-
From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of KD4PBC
Sent: Wednesday, August 20, 2008 1:16 PM
To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [Repeater-Builder] De-Sense and Circulator Question

 

John, 

 

Assuming that the output of the repeater and amp are clean. 

This would be my suggestions do this in order to avoid spending any more
than needed. 

 

1)  Verify clean output from TX and amp.

2)  Verify tuning on the duplexer. 

 Both of these are most likely fine. 

3)  Replace all interconnect cables with ¼ of ½ superflex

4)  Add circulator to the output of Amp (dual at least maybe even a
triple) 

5)  Replace duplexer with someth

RE: [Repeater-Builder] Antenna connectors sealing instructions

[Eric Lemmon]

Don,

In my opinion, one of the best ways to seal connectors is to use Scotch (3M)
Type 130-C Linerless Splicing Tape.  This is a self-vulcanizing EPR tape
that is used in the electrical utility industry to seal terminations on
12,000-volt distribution feeders.  When applied from bottom to top with a
1/2 overlap, stretched as you go, it forms an airtight and watertight seal.
The self-vulcanizing effect means that it permanently bonds to itself, but
does not adhere to the connector.  The 1" wide tape works well.  If the
environment is really hostile, I suggest applying an overcoat or two of 3M
SkotchKote sealer.  Here are links to the products I mentioned, which are
available through any electrical distributor:




73, Eric Lemmon WB6FLY
 

-Original Message-
From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Don Kupferschmidt
Sent: Friday, August 22, 2008 9:23 PM
To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Antenna connectors sealing instructions

Hello to the group:
 
Recently there was a post on the proper way to seal inline coax connectors
on a tower to make them weather resistant.
 
As I recall, there was a response from one of the members that directed the
original poster to a major antenna manufacturer which had instructions in a
.pdf on how to seal everything using tape and sealant.
 
Anyone recall the website?  I'd like to download the .pdf into my archives
for future reference.
 
Any help is welcomed and appreciated.
 
Thanks in advance.
 
'73
 
Don, KD9PT

RE: [Repeater-Builder] De-Sense and Circulator Question

[John Transue]

Robert,

 

Thank you. Your suggestions are very reasonable. I hope to find a
spectrum analyzer to verify that the output of the repeater and PA are
clean. 

 

I just had the duplexer tuned a few weeks ago but I realize this does
not guarantee that is it’s tuned properly now or that the duplexer has
the isolation that it is supposed to have. When it was tuned, there was
no careful check of the isolation. 

 

I have just replaced all the interconnecting cables with RG-400, one of
the types that has wide acceptance from Repeater Builder correspondents.
I don’t want to replace them with Superflex until other possibilities
are exhausted. 

 

Adding a circulator (isolator perhaps) to the output of the PA: I don’t
understand how this would help the de-sense. It would protect the PA
from a badly tuned duplexer. Hold on! Now that I re-read your email, I
see that the circulator would prevent a signal received at a close-by
frequency from mixing with the output of the PA. But wouldn’t the mixing
already have taken place in the duplexer?  Perhaps, being a passive
component, the duplexer can’t be the site of mixing?

 

Yes, I am becoming convinced that the duplexer we have is not up to the
job. I guess it would be good to get it on a vector network analyzer or
other suitable instrument to verify that its isolation is or is not
adequate. 

 

Our frequency pair is 448.375 TX and 443.375 RX. I would have to check
for near-by repeater frequencies. I doubt that this is the problem
though because the 440 repeaters around here have a rather low duty
cycle, and our problem seems to be continuous. Also, we still have
de-sense when testing into a dummy load. 

 

Your suggestions and explanations are very helpful, Robert. Please stick
with us. Sooner or later we are going to get this repeater working
properly.

 

John

AF4PD

Vienna Wireless Society

 

 

 

-Original Message-
From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of KD4PBC
Sent: Wednesday, August 20, 2008 1:16 PM
To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [Repeater-Builder] De-Sense and Circulator Question

 

John, 

 

Assuming that the output of the repeater and amp are clean. 

This would be my suggestions do this in order to avoid spending any more
than needed. 

 

1)  Verify clean output from TX and amp.

2)  Verify tuning on the duplexer. 

 Both of these are most likely fine. 

3)  Replace all interconnect cables with ¼ of ½ superflex

4)  Add circulator to the output of Amp (dual at least maybe even a
triple) 

5)  Replace duplexer with something from this century. 

 

I read the post about the spur from adding a cavity to the tx output .
the only way that should happed is if there is a problem in the amp in
the 1st place.  

Any RF that makes it back through the transmit side of the duplexer can
mix with your frequency and anything else that can get in there. An
isolator is like an RF diode with a drain. 

Anything that comes toward your  amp from the outside will be diverted
into a dummy load (drain)  to be burned off as heat. 

You did not say what frequency that you are operating on but how close
in frequency are the nearest repeaters ?

And example if is you are on 464.025 and there is another repeater on
464.050 then your duplexer no matter how good offers no protection
itself that would be the isolators job. 

 

I hope this was helpful and while yes I do have some stuff available my
post is to be helpful not sell stuff. 

 

Regards, 

Robert Mitchell

 

 

From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of John Transue
Sent: Wednesday, August 20, 2008 11:37 AM
To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [Repeater-Builder] De-Sense and Circulator Question

 

First a big thank you to Eric, David, Rodney, and Robert. It seems clear
now that a circulator is not what I need. I plan to re-tune a pass
cavity and put it on the TX side as suggested by Eric. David has warned
of the possibility that this can cause a spur that might interfere with
another system so I will try to have a spectrum analyzer look at the
output.

 

Robert asked for some additional information. Here it is:

RG-400 (new) in the cabinet, RG-214 (new) to the Heliax feed line.

The RF environment is intense. I do not know what all is transmitting,
but there are numerous antennas within 100 feet.

The repeater is a Yaesu Musen FTR-5410. It drives a Mirage PA to about
90 watts.

 

John Transue

 

-Original Message-
From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of KD4PBC
Sent: Wednesday, August 20, 2008 7:50 AM
To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [Repeater-Builder] De-Sense and Circulator Question

 

John, 

A couple questions.

What are you using for interconnect cables, antenna, feedline ?

Tell us something about the RF environment Hostile or not ?

What type of radio are you using ?

That Motorola duplexer is a ve

Re: [Repeater-Builder] Rackmount clips/screws

[Mike Pugh]

Go to your local musician supply store. Thee is a company called SKB 
cases (or something really close to that). The manufacture musician's 
road cases that use clip and screws that will fit what you are looking 
for. Mike

souryatlexcomincdotnet wrote:
> Hello Everyone,
> Does anybody have a source for the spring clips and screws for the 
> rackmount cabinet rails.
> Either type (that was used with the GE and Motorola cabinets) will 
> work. What few I have are used up and needing additional to mount more 
> equipment.
>
> 73 and thanks,
> Doug
> N4TZD
>
>
> 
>
>
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>   

RE: [Repeater-Builder] Rackmount clips/screws

[n9wys]

My 2¢ worth...

I have heard these referred to as "Speed Nuts".  McMaster-Carr shows the
ones I am familiar with in their catalog, calling them “U-style clip-on
nuts”.  (I found them by doing a search for "speed nuts".)  These are
designed to use sheet metal-type screws, which is what I usually see in
radio cabinet rails.

Mark - N9WYS

-Original Message-
From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com On Behalf Of no6b

At 8/22/2008 23:50, you wrote:
>The clips are called tinerman clips and I have found them at auto parts 
>stores but I think they are a little spendey.

The ones that are threaded for machine screws are called cage nuts.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cage_nut  

10-32 would be the best thread size to use, since it's a defacto 19" rack 
mount standard.  I've also seen racks tapped with 12-24, but that screw 
size isn't as easy to find.

Bob NO6B

RE: [Repeater-Builder] Rackmount clips/screws

[Kris Kirby]

On Sat, 23 Aug 2008 [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> 10-32 would be the best thread size to use, since it's a defacto 19" 
> rack mount standard.  I've also seen racks tapped with 12-24, but that 
> screw size isn't as easy to find.

10-32 and 12-24 are very common screws for rackmounting. All you have to 
do is google "rack screws" and several sources show up.

--
Kris Kirby, KE4AHR  <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
But remember, with no superpowers comes no responsibility. 
--rly

RE: [Repeater-Builder] Rackmount clips/screws

[no6b]

At 8/22/2008 23:50, you wrote:
>The clips are called tinerman clips and I have found them at auto parts 
>stores but I think they are a little spendey.

The ones that are threaded for machine screws are called cage nuts.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cage_nut

10-32 would be the best thread size to use, since it's a defacto 19" rack 
mount standard.  I've also seen racks tapped with 12-24, but that screw 
size isn't as easy to find.

Bob NO6B

Re: [Repeater-Builder] Antenna connectors sealing instructions

[Chuck Kelsey]

Don, I don't have the site, but here's what I've found to work and hold up for 
years and years. Any connections I've taken apart later looked brand new.

First, get the right tape. Scotch 33+ electrical tape is what I use.

Begin wrapping on the coax, applying the tape while slightly stretching it, 
with a half-lap overlap. Return back with another wrap, extending a bit further 
than where you started. Then one final third wrap. When you are nearing the end 
of the third wrap, completely release all tension from the tape and apply the 
final three or four wraps with absolutely no pressure. When you are done, you 
want the wraps to end up like the shingles on your roof so that any water 
coming down the cable is shed naturally.

I have tried a wrap of Scotch 23 self-fusing rubber tape prior to application 
of the 33+ with no benefit seen, so I've stuck with just using the 33+.

Don't use any other brand tape, is my advice. Most other electrical tape is 
junk. The other thing is you need to go slowly and neatly - no bumps or other 
irregularities. The tape will conform to most shapes, but you cannot rush the 
job. And releasing the tension at the end of the third wrap is essential, 
otherwise the tape will eventually start to unwrap itself.

Chuck
WB2EDV


  - Original Message - 
  From: Don Kupferschmidt 
  To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Saturday, August 23, 2008 12:23 AM
  Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Antenna connectors sealing instructions


  Hello to the group:

  Recently there was a post on the proper way to seal inline coax connectors on 
a tower to make them weather resistant.

Re: [Repeater-Builder] Rackmount clips/screws

[John J. Riddell]

Hammond Mfg has them...they are 10 - 32 nuts. They are also available in 
metric and a few other sizes
as well.
73 John VE3AMZ
- Original Message - 
From: "souryatlexcomincdotnet" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: 
Sent: Friday, August 22, 2008 7:45 PM
Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Rackmount clips/screws


> Hello Everyone,
> Does anybody have a source for the spring clips and screws for the
> rackmount cabinet rails.
> Either type (that was used with the GE and Motorola cabinets) will
> work. What few I have are used up and needing additional to mount more
> equipment.
>
> 73 and thanks,
> Doug
> N4TZD
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> Yahoo! Groups Links
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