[Repeater-Builder] Painting
So I have been trying to put together and rebuild a bunch of equipment for the hilltops. Just got another set of Moto T1504 UHF cans. I have been attempting to do a neat and tidey job (for a change) and make sure everything is clean, and wired neat and such. So now, the inside of the duplexers are redone, What kind of paint shoud-could-would I use to paint the outside to not effect the performance? N1ROA
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Painting
David, Go to Ace Hardware and get your standard grey Semi Gloss paint and paint them. Make sure to cover the screw holes to seal from over spray. Mike -- Original message -- From: David [EMAIL PROTECTED] So I have been trying to put together and rebuild a bunch of equipment for the hilltops. Just got another set of Moto T1504 UHF cans. I have been attempting to do a neat and tidey job (for a change) and make sure everything is clean, and wired neat and such. So now, the inside of the duplexers are redone, What kind of paint shoud-could-would I use to paint the outside to not effect the performance? N1ROA
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Painting
Yes but the standard? Acrylic, obviously not laytex, and not enamel right? --- On Mon, 10/13/08, [EMAIL PROTECTED] [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Painting To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Date: Monday, October 13, 2008, 10:19 AM David, Go to Ace Hardware and get your standard grey Semi Gloss paint and paint them. Make sure to cover the screw holes to seal from over spray. Mike -- Original message -- From: David [EMAIL PROTECTED] com So I have been trying to put together and rebuild a bunch of equipment for the hilltops. Just got another set of Moto T1504 UHF cans. I have been attempting to do a neat and tidey job (for a change) and make sure everything is clean, and wired neat and such. So now, the inside of the duplexers are redone, What kind of paint shoud-could- would I use to paint the outside to not effect the performance? N1ROA
[Repeater-Builder] Re: Painting
If the repeater and duplexer are in a cool dry place... don't even bother to paint it... Why take the chance of shooting yourself in the foot when you don't have to. s. David [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: So I have been trying to put together and rebuild a bunch of equipment for the hilltops. Just got another set of Moto T1504 UHF cans. I have been attempting to do a neat and tidey job (for a change) and make sure everything is clean, and wired neat and such. So now, the inside of the duplexers are redone, What kind of paint shoud-could-would I use to paint the outside to not effect the performance? N1ROA
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Painting
Well unfortunatly, the building is not even close to air tight, we are working on it but being one of the highest hilltops in the region at 1200', humidity and temperature are not controlled easily. That said, I am trying to protect what I have fixed, to avoid having to fix it again. --- On Mon, 10/13/08, skipp025 [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: From: skipp025 [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Painting To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Date: Monday, October 13, 2008, 12:54 PM If the repeater and duplexer are in a cool dry place... don't even bother to paint it... Why take the chance of shooting yourself in the foot when you don't have to. s. David [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: So I have been trying to put together and rebuild a bunch of equipment for the hilltops. Just got another set of Moto T1504 UHF cans. I have been attempting to do a neat and tidey job (for a change) and make sure everything is clean, and wired neat and such. So now, the inside of the duplexers are redone, What kind of paint shoud-could- would I use to paint the outside to not effect the performance? N1ROA
RE: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Painting
I've rebuilt a pile of those duplexers, it is just bench work to disassemble them, clean them and reassemble. Most of my rack mounted stuff is black, and I like that, so I usually spray paint the components of the cans when I have them apart with black gloss spray paint, taping up the holes so no paint gets inside the can. Then I buff and clean the inside of the cans as I reassemble them. I've not ever noticed any change in response after rattle can painting the outside of the cans. On the same product, does anyone know the specific difference in the 5 mHz spread and the 3 mHz spread versions of these duplexers? I picked one up and the notch appears to be only tunable about 3 megs from the pass frequency, is this a simple change in the notch loop or something? I'd like to use it on a 5 mHz split. 73 N7HQR So I have been trying to put together and rebuild a bunch of equipment for the hilltops. Just got another set of Moto T1504 UHF cans. I have been attempting to do a neat and tidey job (for a change) and make sure everything is clean, and wired neat and such. So now, the inside of the duplexers are redone, What kind of paint shoud-could-would I use to paint the outside to not effect the performance? N1ROA
RE: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Painting
At 10:06 AM 10/13/2008, Daron Wilson wrote: I've rebuilt a pile of those duplexers, it is just bench work to disassemble them, clean them and reassemble. Most of my rack mounted stuff is black, and I like that, so I usually spray paint the components of the cans when I have them apart with black gloss spray paint, taping up the holes so no paint gets inside the can. Then I buff and clean the inside of the cans as I reassemble them. I've not ever noticed any change in response after rattle can painting the outside of the cans. On the same product, does anyone know the specific difference in the 5 mHz spread and the 3 mHz spread versions of these duplexers? I picked one up and the notch appears to be only tunable about 3 megs from the pass frequency, is this a simple change in the notch loop or something? I'd like to use it on a 5 mHz split. I agree about the painting. I don't see where you can get into any problems as long as the connectors, tuning shaft and loop slides (and slots in the cavity walls) are masked off. As for the 3 megs thing, remember a few years back where I had problems with a newly acquired T1504A that wouldn't quite make the 5 meg notch? It turned out that someone had repaired a notch loop and left a very large solder fillet that effectively made the loop electrically shorter. I cleaned up the eccess solder and voila! 5 meg notch once more. So my thought is that the coupling and notch loops are longer on a 5 meg split one than a 3 meg. Ken -- President and CTO - Arcom Communications Makers of repeater controllers and accessories. http://www.arcomcontrollers.com/ Authorized Dealers for Kenwood and Telewave and we offer complete repeater packages! AH6LE/R - IRLP Node 3000 http://www.irlp.net We don't just make 'em. We use 'em!
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Recommended commercial radios that use SMT technology - to convert to 2m rpt
tedsims wrote: I'm hoping that I can identify equipment that seems more familiar to me on the inside (PLL synthesis, SCF audio processing, LDMOS, surface mount). I know the MASTR II, Mitrek, etc. are very fine radios, but the inside of one of these looks completely alien to me. Any suggestions? What's broken/breaking in the system today? (In other words, what's the motivation to re-build it?) What's the budget like? A modern voted system like that with all new(er) rigs could get real expensive, real fast. Here's how it probably goes... The older stuff (like the Micor and MASTR II) are at least considered modern up through the 1980's. (They were still available new from the manufacturer close to 20 years after they first hit the market, which says a whole lot for their design-quality and ability to work seemingly forever. A lot of clubs/groups are still running them without any more than a quick trip to check sensitivity and PA output power, etc... once a year. If even that. The used market is flooded with this year right now, but won't be forever. One of the positives of some of this older gear is that the complete board assemblies on SOME of these models, are directly from the mobile rigs. The mobiles are so old now, they're getting to where they're very inexpensive in BULK if you find an auction, or similar... and you are willing to swap boards and see what's working and what's not. You can build a mighty spares pile of known working receivers, exciters, etc... for the older repeaters from mobile boards. (I'm a MASTR II fan, the Motos I hear this is harder... Moto didn't make their stuff as interchangeable. I don't know. Your mileage may vary.) In the mid-80's gear like you're describing with more modern components arrived. But it was done on the cheap as far as actual RF-design goes, with many of the rigs made overseas and of questionable build quality. The front-ends are quite a bit broader, even though it added sensitivity... etc. For links and receivers at high sites, this is often backward of what you're trying to accomplish... and you end up putting a lot of out-board filtering on the pile of receivers at the voter site... to keep the out of band stuff nearby from bothering them. Systems like the MSR-2000, later the MSF-5000 from Motorola and the MASTR III from GE/MA-Com came out as replacements for the gear sold in the early 80's. The MASTR III is still current product at MA/Com, the MSF-5000 as far as I know is. They're still built like real repeaters... and anytime you have the space in the rack and the money to pay for them, they're well worth it. But they (especially NEW) are NOT cheap. For a ham radio voted-system, the sheer number of TX/RX pairs you need means you probably can't afford a rack full of nice solid commercial gear like that. Size, power consumption, amount of space needed in the racks... etc... would be too great. So the pile of mobiles on a shelf thing is often done instead. Options would be things like others have already mentioned... commercial mobiles from the mid-80's like the GM-300/Radius series from Moto, etc... that have the appropriate connectors on the back (16-pin) to give you the right connections needed to deal with voting systems... etc. For the TX part... running some of those rigs in their 10W varieties works, but it's still just a mobile rig. Try to keep them cool. (Which probably means adding fans to your PA heatsinks.) Basically, if you go this route, you're trading quality for quantity,it works... but make sure you're planning to have spares sitting around, pre-programmed, ready to go when you blow up a link radio in that environment. Since mobiles are generally cheap. Other interesting possibilities include using Kenwood TKR-series repeaters as the links... (expensive, but nice...), etc. Basically -- what you're describing sounds fishy to me, and probably to the folks on the list that have experience running large voted repeater systems... someone wants you to rip out working gear just because someone's afraid of individual components on circuit boards? Somehow that doesn't seem too wise. Replacing all that gear will be very expensive, just to switch to lower quality radios, in many regards. It can be done on the cheap, but I bet there would be at least a few folks here on the list that would say leave it alone and just learn how to repair/swap components in the older gear... on a system that's up and working that's already that big. Unless you have a sugar-daddy somewhere, paying the bills. Then the sky's the limit, I suppose. More info on what the current system is built out of would lead to better responses from the list as to what to do to update the system, etc. A big voted system is already a part-time-job just to keep it alive. Ripping out all the gear and replacing it is a heck of a lot of work if it's generally working right now... Nate WY0X
RE: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Painting
The loop that is mounted in the round holes determines the notch spread. One hole is 5MHZ or more the other hole is 5Mhz or less. The loop in the slotted hole is for fine tuning within the preset range. Refer to T1500 manual on RBwebsite. -- Doug N3DAB/WPRX486/WPJL709 Ken Arck [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: = At 10:06 AM 10/13/2008, Daron Wilson wrote: I've rebuilt a pile of those duplexers, it is just bench work to disassemble them, clean them and reassemble. Most of my rack mounted stuff is black, and I like that, so I usually spray paint the components of the cans when I have them apart with black gloss spray paint, taping up the holes so no paint gets inside the can. Then I buff and clean the inside of the cans as I reassemble them. I've not ever noticed any change in response after rattle can painting the outside of the cans. On the same product, does anyone know the specific difference in the 5 mHz spread and the 3 mHz spread versions of these duplexers? I picked one up and the notch appears to be only tunable about 3 megs from the pass frequency, is this a simple change in the notch loop or something? I'd like to use it on a 5 mHz split. I agree about the painting. I don't see where you can get into any problems as long as the connectors, tuning shaft and loop slides (and slots in the cavity walls) are masked off. As for the 3 megs thing, remember a few years back where I had problems with a newly acquired T1504A that wouldn't quite make the 5 meg notch? It turned out that someone had repaired a notch loop and left a very large solder fillet that effectively made the loop electrically shorter. I cleaned up the eccess solder and voila! 5 meg notch once more. So my thought is that the coupling and notch loops are longer on a 5 meg split one than a 3 meg. Ken -- President and CTO - Arcom Communications Makers of repeater controllers and accessories. http://www.arcomcontrollers.com/ Authorized Dealers for Kenwood and Telewave and we offer complete repeater packages! AH6LE/R - IRLP Node 3000 http://www.irlp.net We don't just make 'em. We use 'em!
[Repeater-Builder] ICS Controllers
Is anyone else having a problem getting to ICS's Website? I needed to download the basic manual. 73 de Joe KB5VJY
[Repeater-Builder] Midland UHF PA
Hello All, I have come into a few Midland UHF power amplifiers. On the PA's, it's labeled as a model number 71-5400B, 120 watts out, and freq range of 450-470. Does anyone know the drive requirements for this PA? I've looked through the RB web site as well as Midlands web site and have found nothing. When I Google the amp the only info that comes up is a few Ebay auctions. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!! Adam N2ACF
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Midland UHF PA
Adam, The Midland 71-5400 base/repeater amps needs 5w of drive. Dennis Bridgeman KCØFWN Bridgeman Communications 202 Seventh Street Carmi, IL 62821 http://bridgemancommunications.com - Original Message - From: Adam C. Feuer To: repeater-builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Monday, October 13, 2008 4:37 PM Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Midland UHF PA Hello All, I have come into a few Midland UHF power amplifiers. On the PA's, it's labeled as a model number 71-5400B, 120 watts out, and freq range of 450-470. Does anyone know the drive requirements for this PA? I've looked through the RB web site as well as Midlands web site and have found nothing. When I Google the amp the only info that comes up is a few Ebay auctions. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!! Adam N2ACF
[Repeater-Builder] GR500 Cooling Fan Control
I am setting up a GR500 with the R1225 radio. It is in the wall mount box. The cooling fan that came with the box runs non-stop. I would like to be able to control the fan either by slowing it down or making it switched by temperature or PTT of the repeater. Can anyone here offer some suggestions? It is currently wired straight from the power supply. Thanks in advance! Ben WQJF348 West Jordan, Utah
[Repeater-Builder] Motorola CDM-1250 PL tone control
We are using a pair of Motorola CDM-1250 UHF mobiles, 403-470 split, for our UHF repeater along with an Arcom RC-210 controller. We want to strip the PL tone when CW and / or Voice ID's are sent. The arcom controller has the capability of sending logic out to the radio or an external tone board to turn the encode on or off. Does anyone have any knowledge of how one might be able to inject the CTCSS logic into the 16-pin accessory port, or otherwise connect to the CDM radio and control whether the CDM will encode our PL tone or not? Another option is the CommSpec SS-64, which I have on hand. However, we cannot simply parallel the tone output into the pre-emphasized audio input of the radio. I know that the radio could probably be programmed for no pre-emphasis, but I don't want to bypass limiting. Ideas or suggestions? Maybe someone knows a good location to inject the tone directly into the radio's modulator? Thank you, James Adkins, KB0NHX [EMAIL PROTECTED] -- James Adkins, KB0NHX District 1 Technical Field Engineer Troop A--Lee's Summit; Troop H--St. Joseph Missouri State Highway Patrol 504 SE Blue Parkway Lee's Summit, MO 64063 816-622-0707 ext. 235 417-840-5261 (Cell) I'm James Adkins and I approve this message
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Painting
David. ?If you want to give them kind of a factory look, any automotive paint store carries SEM paint. This is used in car interiors. It is a straight laquer. ?You could use the color light neutral in the Classic Coat series number 17133. It's in a standard spray can.?(It most likely will be in stock). ?This color is identical to Motorola's Haze Beige. It's the same color they used in the Motrac Compa Station and high power upright stations. It's a really sharp color. I have used it to recondition lots of bases. Your cans would probably look pretty good in that shadejust a thought.?? Ed -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Mon, 13 Oct 2008 10:19 am Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Painting David, ? Go to Ace Hardware and get your standard grey Semi Gloss paint and paint them. Make sure to cover the screw holes to seal from over spray. ? Mike ? -- Original message -- From: David [EMAIL PROTECTED] So I have been trying to put together and rebuild a bunch of equipment for the hilltops. Just got another set of Moto T1504 UHF cans. I have been attempting to do a neat and tidey job (for a change) and make sure everything is clean, and wired neat and such. So now, the inside of the duplexers are redone, What kind of paint shoud-could-would I use to paint the outside to not effect the performance? N1ROA
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Painting
Heyalso, if you do go with the SEM paint, buy a satin clear laquer to protect the finish. It will work fine and make them durable in that enviroment.?? ed -Original Message- From: David Piche [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Mon, 13 Oct 2008 12:58 pm Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Painting Well unfortunatly, the building is not even close to air tight, we are working on it but being one of the highest hilltops in the region at 1200', humidity and temperature are not controlled easily. That said, I am trying to protect what I have fixed, to avoid having to fix it again. --- On Mon, 10/13/08, skipp025 [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: From: skipp025 [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Painting To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Date: Monday, October 13, 2008, 12:54 PM If the repeater and duplexer are in a cool dry place... don't even bother to paint it... Why take the chance of shooting yourself in the foot when you don't have to. s. David [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: So I have been trying to put together and rebuild a bunch of equipment for the hilltops. Just got another set of Moto T1504 UHF cans. I have been attempting to do a neat and tidey job (for a change) and make sure everything is clean, and wired neat and such. So now, the inside of the duplexers are redone, What kind of paint shoud-could- would I use to paint the outside to not effect the performance? N1ROA
[Repeater-Builder] GE M/N 4EF5A1 amplifier
We have used two of these amps for many years. I am trying to replace the tube (4CX250B) in one of them. This is my first time doing this. I have replaced the tube with one I think is good that was stored in the repeater. The GE instructions are typical, transmit at low power into the output of the amp, peak the grid current with Grid and Filter controls then null the grid current using the neutralizer control. The problem: after peaking the grid current with Grid and Filter, the neutralizer control will only further peak the grid current, the nulls occur at both ends of the control travel; there is a definite peak in the middle of the control range instead of a null. Any idea what would cause this condition? Bill
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Painting
David..S. is right about effecting performance, but lacquer does not have any type of reflective properties, so it's a good choice. A friend of mine did a Super Statiomaster a color so you wouldn't see it in a tree. No problems at all...as long as the paint isn't a metallic your good to go...Ed -Original Message- From: skipp025 [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Mon, 13 Oct 2008 12:54 pm Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Painting If the repeater and duplexer are in a cool dry place... don't even bother to paint it... Why take the chance of shooting yourself in the foot when you don't have to. s. David [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: So I have been trying to put together and rebuild a bunch of equipment for the hilltops. Just got another set of Moto T1504 UHF cans. I have been attempting to do a neat and tidey job (for a change) and make sure everything is clean, and wired neat and such. So now, the inside of the duplexers are redone, What kind of paint shoud-could-would I use to paint the outside to not effect the performance? N1ROA Yahoo! Groups Links
[Repeater-Builder] pls help , connecting a link radio to a tkr850 repeater.
hello All, pls can anybody help me on how to connect a link radio , precisely the tk860g series radio to a tkr850 repeater.? thanks regards savy
[Repeater-Builder] cos for delta radios
I have a RC 210 controller and want to hook up two delta radios but I'm having a hard time finding the cos control pin. The schematic shows it is pin 12 but checking with the osilloscope there is little or no voltage change, is there something else I'm not changing to make this work. I have no control heads I'm just doing this from the radios themselves. Any help would be very much appreciated Thanks Wayne VE3WWM
[Repeater-Builder] Re: GE M/N 4EF5A1 amplifier
I would suggest first placing the neutralizing capacitor or coupler in the minimum C or min coupled position. It appears at first glance that you have described having way too much inserted neutralization. Also... let the tube heat up for at least 1/2 hour min when you first start to do this process. Especially if the tube is surplus or has been sitting around for some time... ie over a year since mfgr. cheers, s. w8wer [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: We have used two of these amps for many years. I am trying to replace the tube (4CX250B) in one of them. This is my first time doing this. I have replaced the tube with one I think is good that was stored in the repeater. The GE instructions are typical, transmit at low power into the output of the amp, peak the grid current with Grid and Filter controls then null the grid current using the neutralizer control. The problem: after peaking the grid current with Grid and Filter, the neutralizer control will only further peak the grid current, the nulls occur at both ends of the control travel; there is a definite peak in the middle of the control range instead of a null. Any idea what would cause this condition? Bill
RE: [Repeater-Builder] pls help , connecting a link radio to a tkr850 repeater.
What controller are you using or are you wanting to connect it without a controller. Mike _ From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Saviour Otsemobor Sent: Sunday, October 12, 2008 1:53 PM To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Subject: [Repeater-Builder] pls help , connecting a link radio to a tkr850 repeater. hello All, pls can anybody help me on how to connect a link radio , precisely the tk860g series radio to a tkr850 repeater.? thanks regards savy
[Repeater-Builder] New Mobile Antennas FS
For Sale- new/old stock Radiall Larsen NMO-WBQ quarter wave wideband mobile antennas, chrome with spring and NMO base, usable from 144Mhz up to whatever you cut them for. Have 17 new in their packages. Available for $8 each + s/h or take all of them for $125 and I'll ship. Reply direct to me if interested. Thanks, Gary San Diego, CA.
RE: [Repeater-Builder] cos for delta radios
Wayne, A few questions to to ask first. Have you programmed up the radios yet or are you testing before reprogramming? Advise to test on commercial freq before programming to ham. Which model of Delta is this: the Delta-S or Delta-SX synthesized model? Do you have speaker audio wired up and working? Did you add a squelch pot if one isn't already installed in the radio? There are a number of sites showing how to hook up the radio without a control head. Are you using one of those websites as a guide? Most are slanted towards packet use which is slightly different than voice use (like the addition of a sql pot). You have to make sure you have all the power and grounds hooked up to the proper pins. Did you get the transmitter to work, audio PTT? It's always easier to test it out initially with a head to start with. I'd highly recommend you try to find one somewhere, perhaps ebay if you can. There is another repeater group here in town, they run an RC-210 with two deltas, so your goal will work. Ralph W4XE -Original Message- From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of wayne.mclean Sent: Monday, October 13, 2008 4:48 PM To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Subject: [Repeater-Builder] cos for delta radios I have a RC 210 controller and want to hook up two delta radios but I'm having a hard time finding the cos control pin. The schematic shows it is pin 12 but checking with the osilloscope there is little or no voltage change, is there something else I'm not changing to make this work. I have no control heads I'm just doing this from the radios themselves. Any help would be very much appreciated Thanks Wayne VE3WWM Yahoo! Groups Links
Re: [Repeater-Builder] ICS Controllers
Hi Joe This is Brian of ICS. The ICS website is offline. I am not sure why. I tried to contact the host and I couldn't get through. For anyone wanting to get ahold of us here at ICS please email us at [EMAIL PROTECTED] or call 217-648-2027 Sorry for the trouble. Joe, I will email you an ICS Basic manual. 73 Brian Brian Martens Integrated Control Systems kb5vjy wrote: Is anyone else having a problem getting to ICS's Website? I needed to download the basic manual. 73 de Joe KB5VJY
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Midland UHF PA
Dennis, Much appreciated and thanks!! Adam N2ACF Dennis Bridgeman wrote: Adam, The Midland 71-5400 base/repeater amps needs 5w of drive. Dennis Bridgeman KCØFWN Bridgeman Communications 202 Seventh Street Carmi, IL 62821 http://bridgemancommunications.com - Original Message - *From:* Adam C. Feuer mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] *To:* repeater-builder@yahoogroups.com mailto:repeater-builder@yahoogroups.com *Sent:* Monday, October 13, 2008 4:37 PM *Subject:* [Repeater-Builder] Midland UHF PA Hello All, I have come into a few Midland UHF power amplifiers. On the PA's, it's labeled as a model number 71-5400B, 120 watts out, and freq range of 450-470. Does anyone know the drive requirements for this PA? I've looked through the RB web site as well as Midlands web site and have found nothing. When I Google the amp the only info that comes up is a few Ebay auctions. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!! Adam N2ACF
