Re: [Repeater-Builder] Motorola Spectra

[Adam T. Cately]

   This has been explained a few times before - Motorola ordered tags
from a sub-contractor, and they mixed up the actual model numbers with
the ID numbers for a few different series of radios - just transpose the
ID number with the model number and you'll have the number you need -


At 10:58 PM 6/4/10 -0700, you wrote:
>At 07:41 AM 06/03/10, you wrote:
>>I'm trying to find out the spec's on a model# TA9FW+079W. Contact me 
>>of line at kc...@cox.net
>>John
>
>That's the new format model number, and I've never
>seen a Rosetta Stone for it.
>
>I suggest that you ask the person for the "ID number "
>from the same model tag.  It has some useful info.
>
>See this article:
>
>and scroll down a little more than half way - you will
>see photos of seven different model tags.
>
>Mike WA6ILQ

   - Adam - 

   

  

Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Syntor X9000 Programming

[Adam T. Cately]

At 03:42 PM 4/4/10 -, you wrote:

>  
>> ... to program the Syntor X9000, you will need a Motorola RIB 
>> Box (small box with some interface circuitry that will convert 
>> your PC's RS-232 port to logic levels the radio wants to see). 
>> You will also need a cable that goes from the RIB to the radio. 
>
>> > since you don't need the almost-impossible-to-find suitcase
>> > programmer for the plain Syntor or the Syntor X... you just
>> > connect a slow PC or a laptop to the X9000 and program it. 
>
>Actually, the "slow pc" is not a requirement. Just a PC with the 
>proper programs installed and configured. 


   My problem with newer computers is/was always the com port - newer
   chipsets are a little too fast to talk to the radio - guess I'll
   have to grab a ToughBook and check those out - everyone's mileage
   always differs here...

   ... and 8086 laptops are still cheap at the swaps...



>I use a very fast Panasonic CF-52 Tough-book booting to a USB 
>Thumb Drive (formatted DOS) to Program Syntor X9000 Radios. 
>
>Works just fine...  no moslo or other speed reducing programs. 
>The key is to remember turning off your Processor Memory 
>Caching.  
>
>cheers, 
>skipp 
>
>skipp025 at yahoo.com 
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>

   - Adam - 

   

  

[Repeater-Builder] Re: OT - re: contest replies to callers...

[Adam T. Cately]

   ...I have been called an 'ass' before ...


  ... Shut up, Jeremy, ...


At 03:56 PM 11/21/09 -, you wrote:
>If you're really an OF like me... you also add the 
>"PSE QSL VIA THE BURRO". 
>
>ok gd luck in the contest... 
>S. 
>
>> "Adam T. Cately"  wrote:
>> SOooo - you're a code-maven, too, Skipp? 
>> When I run the local nets (or mostly, when I'm trying 
>> to corral a rag-chew on the local frequencies) my 
>> favorite response to a check-in is - 
>> 
>> "You're 5-9-plus, but I need a repeat on your suffix 
>> and your station location, this is KB8MDF..."
>>
>> I hear this all the time on HF voice - contest replies 
>> that suggest you were full-scale, full-quieting, fully 
>> readable, but the returning station needs a repeat on 
>> your pertinent information.
>> If a station is "5-9-plus", why would you need a repeat?
>> (sorry - just a black-sheep musing on a dreary Saturday morning)
>> Please carry forth...
>> - Adam -
>
>> >s.
>> >(you're 5,9,9 - good luck in the contest) 
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>

   - Adam - 

   

  

[Repeater-Builder] OT - re: contest replies to callers...

[Adam T. Cately]

>s.
>
>(you're 5,9,9 - good luck in the contest) 


   SOooo - you're a code-maven, too, Skipp?


   When I run the local nets (or mostly, when I'm trying to corral a rag-
chew on the local frequencies) my favorite response to a check-in is - 

   "You're 5-9-plus, but I need a repeat on your suffix and your station
location, this is KB8MDF..."

   
   I hear this all the time on HF voice - contest replies that suggest you
were full-scale, full-quieting, fully readable, but the returning station
needs a repeat on your pertinent information.

   If a station is "5-9-plus", why would you need a repeat?



   (sorry - just a black-sheep musing on a dreary Saturday morning)

   Please carry forth...

   - Adam - 

   

  

Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Building Low Band Loop Antennas (DB-212)

[Adam T. Cately]

   If'n I remember correctly...

   Fred Vobbe built his own 6m loop antennas for his repeater array - 
maybe someone could arm-twist him for his story about the antennas and
harness.

   (Sorry Fred - I know you'se busy...)


At 06:28 PM 11/16/09 -, you wrote:
>Yes please Jeff... 
>
>thanks
>skipp 
>
>
>> "Jeff DePolo"  wrote:
>> I have dimensional data for both Decibel and Celwave 
>> lowband folded dipoles *somewhere*.  If there's interest 
>> I'll hunt for them.  
>> 
>> I think the Celwave design (with the "stingers") would be easier to
>> fabricate - no bending involved.
>> 
>>  --- Jeff WN3A
>>  

   - Adam - 

   

  

[Repeater-Builder] need info on old SSC Inc. Encoder/Decoder boxes

[Adam T. Cately]

   I'm looking for some info on these old Solid-State Communications,
Inc. encoder/decoder boxes that I need to change tones in - the decoder
decodes two-tone and bumps the encoder to encode the same two-tones into
the base station it's connected to.

   The model numbers are:  Decoder - #224BY-3 / Encoder - #237AY-1.  

   I've figured out how to move the encoder tones up to where I need them,
now I just need to move the decoder to follow along.  Any help would be 
greatly appreciated.  Reply here or reply direct.  Thanks bunches!

   - Adam - 

   

  

Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re:Dayton

[Adam T. Cately]

   Maybe one of the members of DARA reads this list...

   Years ago, when the club farmed out the running of the Hamvention to
a real business that new what to do, it was nice to have your vendor
packet in the mail by January, so that you could make your plans way in
advance and have all of your ducks in a row - the flea market was well-
organized and the help was there (and also the policing!)

   Since the club has taken over the duties, they have been very lax
as to actual hamfest service, as I truly believe that THEY think we all
will show up anyway, no matter WHAT level of service they give.

   I haven't been there as a vendor since then, and I don't think I'll
go back as a vendor until they change their attitude...

   (...READ - Don't hold your breath...)



At 11:44 PM 5/17/09 -0400, you wrote:
>That said, this year was MUCH better than last year.
>Still, I hope there are many more improvements next year.
>
>Hint: Start planning it NOW and start putting
>anything needed for then together NOW.
>
>Joe M.
>
>Paul Dumdie wrote:
>>  
>>   The folks that run the flea market spaces need to work harder on
getting things sent out in a timely manor.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>

   - Adam - 

   

  

Re: [Repeater-Builder] Cushman 5110 wont lock

[Adam T. Cately]

   When I have this problem with my Cushman 31-A, I pull the boards
from the main chassis and clean all of the gold contacts - this usually
brings it back to life.  You may still have an issue with a component
somewhere, but it's worth a try...


At 03:58 AM 4/29/09 -, you wrote:
>I have a Cushman 5110 and spectrum analyzer wont lock. Any help/advice
>appreciated.  I really would like to fix this, but not much info
>on the web.
>
>Lynn
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>

   - Adam - 

   

  

Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Vertex FTL-1011H CE7 Software Q's

[Adam T. Cately]

   I replied to Dave direct, but I'd like to place two cents here, too...

   The older version of the 4/12/24 channel software goes out-of band, the
newer versions don't.

   The newer version of the 99-channel software goes out-of-band, the older
doesn't.

   They seem to favor going up into 6m, but not below 29.7 (I spent a half
hour trying most of the different versions I have here) so - someone would
have to do some hacking to find the bits to change to get 10m into one of 
these 1011's.


   Do you guys buy lunch for 8-Landers?..


At 04:41 PM 12/27/08 -, you wrote:
>
>Dave, 
>
>There are/were two versions of the software. I seem to remember the 
>early version programs out of band. The newer version is/was not so 
>flexible. 
>
>I'll Email you a copy of the software I have.  
>
>skipp 
>
>ps: We miss your face at the wed lunch
>
>
>> "na6df"  wrote:
>>
>> Anybody have a clue as to how to hack the CE7 software for the
>> FTL-1011H 99 channel radio? I have a low split low band model that I
>> would like to use on 10 meters. The low frequency limit is set to
>> 29.7mhz right now. I have been through the software with a hex editor,
>> but can't seem to locate that parameter. Any help appreciated, thanks!
>> 
>> Dave NA6DF
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>

   - Adam - 

   

  

Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Astron P/S question

[Adam T. Cately]

At 07:38 AM 12/26/08 -0500, you wrote:
>That pretty much confirms my thinking. If the supply is blowing fuses,
something is actually wrong. The crowbar shouldn't cause it to happen.

 
  Well... Yes and no...

   If the SCR fires, you dump all the available current through the supply
to ground, and the supply will blow the fuse - THAT is the designed re-
sponse so that you don't let it sit there and burn up.

   When you short the output - IF the current-sense circuitry is working
to spec, the supply sees the rise in current and shuts down the voltage to
alleviate the SCR from firing - again, THAT is what this circuit was 
designed for.

   I always *assumed* the SCR was for over-voltage (shorted output pass
transistor) and the fold-back was for over-current, under regular output
conditions.

   If the supply blows the fuse, something IS wrong, but it IS DESIGNED to
do that when something is wrong, so...



>
>Chuck
>WB2EDV
>
>
>
>  - Original Message - 
>  From: william...@aol.com 
>  To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com 
>  Sent: Thursday, December 25, 2008 11:41 PM
>  Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Astron P/S question
>
>
>  I have an Astron RM-35M (35Amp) that I just tested by shorting the output
and it doesn't blow the fuse.  I think I would be looking for something in
the primary circuit that might be shorting like the transformer primary or
the surge arrestor or maybe the wiring.  I have seen transformers that short
after they warm up a little. 
>
>  Bill - WA0CBW
>
>  In a message dated 12/25/2008 10:11:11 P.M. Central Standard Time,
lar...@hotmail.com writes:
>--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, "Chuck Kelsey" 
>wrote:
>>
>> I have an old Bullet power supply built from a kit (anyone remember
>those?) 
>> that uses the 723. You can short the output time and time again and it 
>> simply folds back.
>
>
>heheheh I have one of those still in service on a repeater.  Re-capped
>it a year ago and it still works fine.  As I recall a shorted output
>simply folds back, like you say.
>
>I also have two Astrons here on the bench.  One is a VS12, the other
>is a RS12.  When the output is directly shorted with heavy wire they
>both simply fold back.  Shorted them dozens of times; never a blown fuse.
>
>Laryn K8TVZ
>
>
>
>
>
>
>Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>--
>  Don't be the last to know - click here for the latest news that will have
people talking.
>   
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>bottomMargin=7 bgColor=#ff leftMargin=7 topMargin=7 rightMargin=7>
>
>
>That pretty much confirms my thinking. If the supply is blowing fuses, 
>something is actually wrong. The crowbar shouldn't cause it to happen.
> 
>Chuck
>WB2EDV
> 
> 
> 
>style="PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px;
BORDER-LEFT: #00 2px solid; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px">
>  - Original Message - 
>style="BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color:
black">From: 
>href="mailto:william...@aol.com";>william...@aol.com 
>  To:   title=repeater-buil...@yahoogroups.com 
>
href="mailto:Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com";>repeater-buil...@yahoogroups.
com 
>  
>  Sent: Thursday, December 25, 2008 11:41 
>  PM
>  Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: 
>  Astron P/S question
>  
>  I have an Astron RM-35M (35Amp) that I just tested by shorting the
output 
>  and it doesn't blow the fuse.  I think I would be looking for something 
>  in the primary circuit that might be shorting like the transformer
primary or 
>  the surge arrestor or maybe the wiring.  I have seen transformers that 
>  short after they warm up a little. 
>   
>  Bill - WA0CBW
>   
>  
>  In a message dated 12/25/2008 10:11:11 P.M. Central Standard Time, 
>  lar...@hotmail.com writes:
>style="PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: blue 2px
solid">style="BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent" face=Arial color=#00
size=2>--- In 
>Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, "Chuck Kelsey" 
>wrote:>> I have an old Bullet power 
>supply built from a kit (anyone rememberthose?) > that uses the 
>723. You can short the output time and time again and it > simply 
>folds back.heheheh I have one of those still in service on a 
>repeater.  Re-cappedit a year ago and it still works
fine.  As 
>I recall a shorted outputsimply folds back, like you say.I
also 
>have two Astrons here on the bench.  One is a VS12, the otheris a 
>RS12.  When the output is directly shorted with heavy wire
theyboth 
>simply fold back.  Shorted them dozens of times; never a blown 
>fuse.Laryn 
>
K8TVZYahoo! 
>Groups Links<*> To visit your group on the web, go 
>to:    
>http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/<*> Your
email 
>settings:    Individual Email | Traditional<*> 
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Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Astron P/S question

[Adam T. Cately]

  I have had a 35-amp Astron on my workbench for years, and I can short
the red and black together quickly (which happens when you aren't fussy
about how many projects you have going at one time) and the supply will
shut down and NOT blow the fuse - This is an adjustable supply with both
voltage and current controls - I haven't tried it lately with the current
control at full, but I assume it would be the same.  I also haven't kept
the leads together for a long time, lately, but I do remember trying it
years ago just to see if it would hold down - and it did.

   Making the SCR fire is a black magic that shouldn't be misconstrued or
misunderstood this close to the winter solstice...

   Merry Christmas, everyone.


At 02:44 PM 12/24/08 -0500, you wrote:
>I have an old Bullet power supply built from a kit (anyone remember those?) 
>that uses the 723. You can short the output time and time again and it 
>simply folds back. No harm, no foul. That's why I was wondering. I've never 
>tried that with an Astron (and probably won't now).
>
>Chuck
>WB2EDV
>
>
>- Original Message - 
>From: "Bob M." 
>To: 
>Sent: Wednesday, December 24, 2008 2:32 PM
>Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Astron P/S question
>
>
>>I think they do, but only if the supply is putting out current to the load 
>>and the current exceeds the value they've set for it. The crowbar firing 
>>definitely exceeds the current limit but it's so sudden and complete that 
>>the design and component values just cause the fuse to instantaneously 
>>blow.
>>
>> Bob M.
>> 
>
>
>
>
>
>
>Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>

   - Adam - 

   

  

Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Best coax for short jumpers in repeater cabinet?

[Adam T. Cately]

At 04:50 PM 5/11/08 -, you wrote:

   Are you sure you don't mean 'RG-223' there, Skipper-doo?

   I use a lot of this on my bench and home equipment, for the same
reasons the Skipp points out - it's cheap and effective.

   It's the same size (approximately) as RG-58, and uses mostly the same
connectors (occasionally I'll get a crimp connector collar that's a
little snug...)


>One doesn't have to go high dollar overkill spec all the time. 
>I'm also a fairly big fan of RG-233 Coax for many repeater 
>system/equipment applications.  RG-233 seems to be the ignored 
>step child of the coax family, which means it's not instant shark 
>bait every time it pops up on Ebay and the surplus radio world 
>market. 
>
>I found a fairly decent price on some pre-made RG-233 Coax runs 
>on Ebay: 
>
>Cable Assembly RF Coax 7 ft RG-223/U N-Fe to SMA Male
>Ebay Item number: 190175957842
>
>My offer to the seller for 2/3 the asking amount was accepted and 
>I now have a fair number of those lines in my collection at a 
>much better than the $3.10 (Tessco) list price per foot. 
>
>Not a bad deal if you want to take the plunge... 
>
>cheers, 
>skipp 
>skipp025 at yahoo.com 
>www.radiowrench.com 
>
>
>
>"See you at Dayton! I'm the short chubby guy with red hair."
>
>
>> [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
>> Hi Brent,
>> I agree with Skipp, the LMR is not the cable i would recommend 
>> in a duplex repeater install. If you want jumper coax, I only 
>> use RG400 and it is a plenum rated silver plated with double 
>> shield braid silver. Both Motorola and Kenwood systems use 
>> this coax for there internal cableing inside the cabinet. I 
>> yet have seen them use LMR coax. Spend the little extra for 
>> good coax and you will find yourself much happier and not 
>> searching for weird site problems. For the main feed line, you 
>> can't get any better then Andrew's LDF coax for repeater installs. 
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>

   - Adam - 

   

  

Re: [Repeater-Builder] Yaesu FLT-1011 on 6m band.

[Adam T. Cately]

   I have two of them, a 24-channel radio and one of the 99-channel
units - both work just fine.  You need the older software to program
the 4-12-24 channel radios, and a newer version of the software for the
99-channel radios.  No hacking needed.  The radios will have to be re-
aligned.

   You're welcome.


At 10:23 PM 12/9/07 -0500, you wrote:
>Hi group,
>
>Maybe one of you has Yaesu FTL-1011 programmed on 6m band?
>
>I'm planning to buy this radio (38-50MHz split) ant I want to use it on
>53.39MHz.
>
>Is it a good radio or not?  Can I program out of band without trouble?
>
>Thank you.
>
>Eric VE2VXT

   - Adam - 

   

  

RE: [Repeater-Builder] Motorola Spectra

[Adam T. Cately]

At 10:38 PM 5/11/07 -0500, you wrote:
>Content-Type: text/plain;
>   charset="iso-8859-1"

>X-MIME-Autoconverted: from 8bit to quoted-printable by spam5.bright.net id
l4C3dpbP028681
>
>I have a Motorola Spectra in a Case with built in power Supply on 800Mhz it
>is called a Desktrac 

   It's actually called a "Consolette."  Desktracs are a different radio.


You said You programmed a 100 Watt Spectra with No
>Problem,   I also have  a VHF And UHF  Both 110 Watt Spectra's .  I have to
>use a LOW MID Power cable for the Base one like You described and a
>Different High Power Cable to Program the 110 watt Units I hope this helped
>
>
>
>Good Luck
>
>
>
>Don KA9QJG
>http://www.w3c.org/TR/1999/REC-html401-19991224/loose.dtd";>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>I have a Motorola Spectra in a 
>Case with built in power Supply on 800Mhz it is called a Desktrac You said You 
>programmed a 100 Watt Spectra with No Problem,style="mso-spacerun: yes">  style="mso-spacerun: yes"> I also havestyle="mso-spacerun: yes">  a VHF And UHFstyle="mso-spacerun: yes">  Both 110 Watt Spectra's .style="mso-spacerun: yes">  I have to use a LOW MID Power cable
for 
>the Base one like You described and a Different High Power Cable to Program
the 
>110 watt Units I hope this helped 
> ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:office" />
>Good Luck 
> style="FONT-SIZE: 12pt; FONT-FAMILY: 'Times New Roman';
mso-fareast-font-family: 'Times New Roman'; mso-ansi-language: EN-US;
mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA">Don 
>KA9QJG 
>
>
>

   - Adam - 

   

  

Re: [Repeater-Builder] Mini Audio Amplifier time...

[Adam T. Cately]

   I agree with Skipp - I use mine for testing all the time.

   I also agree with Scott - make certain you add some blocking caps to
the input, lest you should make smoke.

   I wish I could mount mine into my line test meter...

At 09:20 PM 1/2/07 -, you wrote:

   Skipp's comments:

>Mini Audio Amplifier time... 
>
>It would be some of the best money spent on handy test gear if 
>many of you picked up a Radio Shack Mini Audio Amplifier. 
>
>Part Number: 277-1008
>
>http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062620&cp
>
>Runs $12.99 and based on the time it will save you... well 
>worth the buck'ola's you'll spend. 

   Scott's comments:

>Be sure to add a DC blocking capacitor to the input leads. The factory
>input runs right into the top of the pot. If you try to monitor any audio
>paths that have a DC bias on them, it will fry the volume pot. :(  I would
>suggest at least a 4.7uF preferred non-polar.

   - Adam - 

   

  

Re: [Repeater-Builder] Successfully ordered SW for MSF5000..

[Adam T. Cately]

At 03:26 PM 12/10/06 -0800, you wrote:
>Do a Google search for a copy of Moslo or Mo Slo software.  It is a do
nothing loop that causes a fast computer to slow down and run all the old
DOS programs.  It also works on games to slow them down for younger players.
Now this is a trip in the "Way Back Machine"!
>
>Jack
>K6YC

   This doesn't help if the com port speed is way too fast - older
machines have the right uarts in them that work at the speeds the DOS
software expects to see.  You can trick the software by slowing down
the CPU, but it may not read or write with a new machine with new
serial equipment...

   - Adam - 

   

  

RE: [Repeater-Builder] RE: Need a Motorola Publication...

[Adam T. Cately]

> >interference reduction, and EMP protection for C-E facilities.
>
>Whatever "C-E" facilities are maybe communications and electronics ??
>

   All over our shop, which used to be Motorola-owned, are asset stickers
which say 'Motorola C & E' - it's been told to me that this stands for
'Motorola Communications and Electronics.'

   Your assumption is astute...

   - Adam - 

   

  





 
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Re: [Repeater-Builder] Dayton Hamvention

[Adam T. Cately]

   Lack of communication - what a concept in the radio world!?!

   I've had the same circumstance twice now since the club took back the
actual running of the hamfest - Two years in a row, I tried to get spots
for myself in the flea market, with no return response from messages left
on the hotline answering machine, OR from my emails to the listed address.

   I also started going to Dayton in 1974, and for the last three years,
and the next few more, probably won't attend again.  And that's sad on MY
part, as I love radio and hamfests in general...


>I've been attending Dayton since 1974.  This year, I've had two folks 
>contact me to see if I had gotten my tickets yet, as they have not 
>received any word.
>They need to be more prompt about communications, or they are going to 
>piss a bunch of folks off.
>Scotty, did we get our tickets/spaces yet? (we hadn't the last time we 
>conversed about it)

   - Adam - 

   

  





 
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RE: [Repeater-Builder] RE: Hamfests in general

[Adam T. Cately]

   I live in NW Ohio, near Toledo, and I waited until Thursday evening
to email the Michigan City hamfest coordinator to ask for table spaces.
I got them - he wasted no time in getting back to me, to get me to show 
up.  THIS kind of effort deserves to be noticed about the smaller swaps.

   YEAH - it was small.  
   YEAH - there was a lot of junk.  
   YEAH - some of the people smelled bad.
   YEAH - if you weren't smart, you mighta gotten rooked.
  
   YEAH - all that happens everywhere at the hamfests - been that way for
years.  I had a great time - got to see my IN and western MI buddies, and
made way more sales than the money I spent buying trinkets.

   As usual, the only youngsters I saw there were looking at the computer
stuff.  Us oldsters better get busier making RADIO look good again...


At 01:36 PM 3/26/06 -0600, you wrote:
>
>I also notice the Lack of Attendance by Sellers, Mark I live in N/W In and
>just went to the Small Michigan City In Hamfest, Sat it Snowed and it was
>more like a Garage sale, I could not even find a Few Radio parts I was
>looking for that use to be common I did find parts for My kitchen sink, a
>flapper for my toilet USED And some car parts.   An Observation and not to
>offend anyone Dos a lot of Hams go out Drinking all night then stop at White
>Castle and Then go straight to the Hamfest ,  and Someone should Sell or
>Donate some Soap  to some. A Heave splash of after Shave lotion   is not the
>answer. And the Most common answers Can I check it out, well I forgot the
>power cord. I forgot the Manual My Grandfather passed away, and I guess
>Congratulations is Due for all the Equipment at Ham Fest and E-Bay by NON
>Smokers Is that by Cigs or Radios?  Going for over 35 Yrs Some things Never
>change, But the Bigger the ham fest and you May  not see the Person again
>Buyer Beware.
>
>73 De Don KA9QJG

   - Adam - 

   

  





 
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Re: [Repeater-Builder] cleaning electronics

[Adam T. Cately]

At 04:04 AM 1/5/06 -0800, you wrote:
>
>"Adam T. Cately" wrote:
>
>  ... snip ... 
>
>>(No - I'm NOT from New Jersey - I just play one on TV.)
>
>  
>

   It loses all the funny when you have to explain, but...

   In regard to the use of the made-up-word "you'se" - as in, "Hey, you'se
guys over dere needs to move dese rocks over hee-uh."

   See? - it's not funny now.

   (probably wasn't before, either)

   - Adam - 

   

  





 
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Re: [Repeater-Builder] cleaning electronics

[Adam T. Cately]

At 03:46 PM 1/3/06 -0800, you wrote:

>>
>Want to know my trick for quickly removing components from scrap PC boards?
>
>Fred, AE6QL

   ...Something on the line of a butane torch, and a bucket to catch the
falling components?..

   AND - this necessitates the question - do you want to RE-USE the
components when you'se done, because a good sharp shovel works OK, too...

   (No - I'm NOT from New Jersey - I just play one on TV.)

   - Adam - 

   

  





 
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Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Connectors wanted

[Adam T. Cately]

   This has been hashed here before, but:

   You can use those two-piece N connectors made for 9913 in the same
way - you need a UG-176 adapter made for RG-8X (Mini-8) to collar over
the FSJ-1 and solder it in place - then carefully screw the main section
of the 9913-N connector onto the adapter - solder the center pin (you
may have to dress the center conductor to mate into the pin) and screw
the outer case onto the connector.

   Makes for another inexpensive way to terminate this style of cable.


At 07:45 PM 12/10/05 -, you wrote:
>
>Well, I made an interesting discovery today.
>
>My local hobby store carries K+S hobby metal. Their 9/16 tubing makes 
>almost an exact collett for taking up the space between the FSJ1-50 and 
>the LMR-400 crimp style N connectors. A 3' piece cost me almost $4 with 
>tax.
>
>So, I cleaned the tubing with a file, tinned it, and I cut an inch of 
>tinned tubing.
>Then I prepped the FSJ by stripping back about an inch and a quarter of 
>the jacket, tinning the shield over the exposed area, and making the 
>center conductor stick out about 1/8".  I filed down the solder since 
>the FSJ is a friction fit into the brass tubing.
>
>I soldered the pin to the center conductor. It's a bit loose, but it's 
>workable.
>
>Then I soldered the brass tubing into the N connector, easily done.
>
>Then I inserted the prepped FSJ cable into the brass tubing, and just 
>flowed the solder in the collett.
>
>Now add a piece of heat-shrink and you have a N connector on the end of 
>FSJ1-50, for about the price of a PL-259.  
>
>I think maybe it would be a good idea to add another piece of larger 
>tubing on the outside of the connector sleeve for strain releif, but I 
>don't think it's strictly needed.
>
>So, now I am not so worried about obtaining those connectors.
>But by replying to my own email in thread, perhaps someone else will 
>find this when they need it.
>
>If anyone's interested, I can do some pix for the RB site.
>
>KC6ETE clear!
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> 
>Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
> 
>
>
>

   - Adam - 

   

  





 
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Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Tower Side Mount Vertical Antennas

[Adam T. Cately]

   I have it - it's called 'tplot_53.exe' - it's a DOS program that
allows you to enter the feequency of antenna desired, the distance from
the tower, and azimuth (?) and then plots a diagram of the signal pattern
that you can peruse or print.

   Spam me direct now if you want a copy, or wait until later today,
and I can post it (if someone doesn't beat me to it.)

   - Adam - 

   

  





 
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Re: [Repeater-Builder] Cat1000 and Courtesty Tones with Volume Control

[Adam T. Cately]

At 06:54 PM 7/24/05 -, you wrote:
>Wonder if anyone has done anything with the Cat 1000 to change the 
>volume level control inside the Cat1000B.  I have a slight problem, 
>and need to reduce the volume even more than the pot will let me 
>inside of the controller.  Problem that I have is, I set the rx 
>control for proper voltage, set the volume control for proper 
>deviation, set the audio out on the transmitter and I get everything 
>in order and the courtesy tones are still too loud.  I have tried 
>several combinations and no luck.  

   You could go across the output of the ct pot with a 4.7k to ground - 
this would take the audio down about half - maybe...

>My other problem is FANS.  There is two of them on the amp, and they 
>make their way into the transmitter.  In order to keep the fans out 
>of the transmitter, if I turn the audio out way down on the xmit, 
>the fan's are barely noticable, but then I have to crank up the 
>volume in the controller, thus making the courtesy tones and cw 
>tones way to loud.  At present, both of the pots are down to the 
>bottom, and still to loud.  Any ideas.  Thanks

   Don't use DC fans - most of the cheapie brushless fans introduce noise
back into the DC line, and it ends up in your receiver or transmitter.
I use 220 AC fans running on 110 - half the speed, so they ain't loud to
your ear, but enough speed to move some air and keep your heat sinks cool.

   - Adam - 

   

  





 
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Re: [Repeater-Builder] Dayton!

[Adam T. Cately]

At 08:08 AM 5/17/05 -0700, you wrote:
>At 02:43 PM 5/17/2005 -, you wrote:
>>Who's going, where to meet!
>
><---From what I've gathered from reading posts about it, it seems many
>folks are going to Dayton and they'll all be easy to spot, as they have
>thining hair, a pot belly and will have a radio on their belt.
>
>Ken
>(well, at least I don't have thining hair!)

   Ya know - I believe hams should embrace the thinning hair aspect - 
all hams being cheap, and such - a dollar bottle of shampoo lasts me about
8 months...

   (And I've had the same comb since high school!)

   KB8MDF - the "F" stands for "F"ollically Challenged
 

   - Adam - 

   

  





 
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Re: [Repeater-Builder] What key fits an R-100 repeater?

[Adam T. Cately]

   Be advised, you need hacked software to program an R100 into the ham
bands...the stock program won't allow entries outside the commercial band
ends.


At 08:02 PM 3/31/05 -0500, you wrote:
>
> I'm not sure yet, but I plan to put it on the ham band.
>
>Joe
>
> Maire Company <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: 
>is this a working repeater?

   - Adam - 

   

  





 
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Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: vertex ftl-1011

[Adam T. Cately]

   Answered directly...

At 06:47 AM 3/14/05 -, you wrote:
>
>
>
>>   Adam,  Are there any voltage test points on this radio in which 
>you can test VCO?  Also, are the front end coils the 4 in a row on 
>the bottom of radio???
>
>Thanks again in advance
>
>
> Just go back and forth across the front end coils for best 
>sensitivity
>> over the frequency spread you would like to have, and you are set 
>to go.
>> You should also adjust the TX and RX VCO's - the RX should be set 
>where it
>> gives best performance and sensitivity IN SCAN, or you will not 
>receive
>> all your channels in scan mode correctly.  There is also a mod for 
>locking
>> the noise blanker on full time, that I created for my 1011's, and 
>it works
>> well.  Good luck...
>> 
>> 
>> At 05:01 AM 3/12/05 -, you wrote:
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >I have a vertex ftl-1011 lowband radio that i tuned up to TX/RX on 
>52 
>> >MHZ.  Does anyone have advice on how to adjust the front end for 
>> >optimum RX?
>> >
>> >
>> >Thanks,  Rob
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> > 
>> >Yahoo! Groups Links
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> > 
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> 
>>- Adam -
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> 
>Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
> 
>
>
>
>

   - Adam - 

   

  





 
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Re: [Repeater-Builder] vertex ftl-1011

[Adam T. Cately]

   Just go back and forth across the front end coils for best sensitivity
over the frequency spread you would like to have, and you are set to go.
You should also adjust the TX and RX VCO's - the RX should be set where it
gives best performance and sensitivity IN SCAN, or you will not receive
all your channels in scan mode correctly.  There is also a mod for locking
the noise blanker on full time, that I created for my 1011's, and it works
well.  Good luck...


At 05:01 AM 3/12/05 -, you wrote:
>
>
>
>I have a vertex ftl-1011 lowband radio that i tuned up to TX/RX on 52 
>MHZ.  Does anyone have advice on how to adjust the front end for 
>optimum RX?
>
>
>Thanks,  Rob
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> 
>Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
> 
>
>
>
>

   - Adam - 

   

  





 
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Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: GE Mastr II Power Drop

[Adam T. Cately]

   I'm currently running three Mastr II mobile configuration repeaters
with only the driver board output as the main TX out - been on the air
for almost 6 years now with no fails - just bypass the final board and
run some coax to the filter board input and you's good to go.

   If you think about it, the driver board was designed to run the final
board at full tilt if it's set that way - maybe not continuously, but
they do it anyway.  I run a small computer fan on the heat sinks of one
of the repeaters, but only because it's loading suggests a little more 
air across the sinks - the other two barely get warm with daily use.
These are UHF radios, in case someone was gonna ask...


At 10:59 AM 3/3/05 -, you wrote:
>
>
>Good Morning Tom,
>I would have to run the driver just about on full bore though. 
>(because of the 30 in 100 out amp...again only running it right now at
>75 watts) I am a little nervous on running it like that.  I wonder if
>anyone else is running the driver that hard and getting good results??
>Thanks,
>Robert
>
>
>--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, "Thomas Oliver"
><[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>> Does the amp have separate driver and final boards? if so you can
>take the
>> final board right out and just run the driver it should be good for
>15-20
>> watts on that size heat sink. If it is the amp I am thinking of the
>driver
>> board is the same board used in MVP and Exec II's there are others out
>> there that are a single board with drivers and finals all on the
>same board
>> (tripler) these are not recommended for repeater duty but your
>mileage may
>> vary.
>> 
>> tom n8ies

   - Adam - 

   

  





 
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Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: motorola R-100 repeater

[Adam T. Cately]

   CPU speed isn't the only thing that's critical - com ports are WAY
too fast on the newer machines, and the best bet is to use a computer
that was around when the software was written, so that it works the way
it was designed.  Find an old 386/486 box with an original I/O and try
that.


At 09:06 PM 2/1/05 -0800, you wrote:
>
>Best thing to try :
>
>Get the MoSlo program here... http://www.hpaa.com/moslo/
>Use it at the default speed (IBM PC/AT 4Mhz).  This should allow the
>R100.com program to run on most any system.  If it still won't run,
>DISABLE CACHE in your CMOS setup and try again.
>
>Also, if you're dealing with a 450 split R100, you will probably have
>to hex edit the R100.com file to modify the allowable bandsplit. 
>Directions to do so are here...  http://www.batlabs.com/r100.html
>
>Good luck & hope this helps.
>
>Brian, N4BWP
>
>--- motarolla_doctor <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
>> 
>> 
>> --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, "Maire Company" 
>> <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>> > had to reload the software into the computer.
>> > now when I go to read the repeater on rx or tx I get the same
>> error.
>> > after it go thought read 1, 2, 3,and 4  when it  gets to 5 it comes
>> 
>> up with a check sum error.  any thoughts  help
>> > thanks
>> 
>> Your computer may be way too fast, the R100 s/w is OLD, and does not 
>> run correctly on any faster than a old 286 10mhz with DOS 5xx or 6.0.
>> 
>> You could also have a bad EEProm, or bad data in it, common problems.

   - Adam - 

   

  





 
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Re: [Repeater-Builder] Homebrew a 2M/440 crossband coupler?

[Adam T. Cately]

At 07:17 AM 2/1/05 -0800, you wrote:
>
>At 03:13 PM 2/1/2005 -, you wrote:
>>Does anyone have, or know where I can get plans to homebrew a 144/440 
>>MHz crossband coupler (aka "diplexer") ??  I would like to find 
>>something with wideband characteristics (ie, low pass, high pass) 
>>such as some of the diamond or comet models, but needs to be able to 
>>handle 100 watts FM continuously from each band, without excessive 
>>loss and without duplex noise, or little capacitors smoking.  Any 
>>suggestions, other than the Telewave models that cost over $300?
>
><---Comet and Diamond make several models that will work just fine. And
>they're definately cheaper!
>

   I've tried running ham diplexers on 2m/440 repeater setups, and if
you keep the TX power on each band low, you MIGHT be OK - they aren't
designed for 100w CONTINUOUS TX, and they'll melt after some long-winded
nets.  As it has been stated here plenty of times, you get what you pay
for.  Use the commercial version - I have - it's well worth the bucks.

   - Adam - 

   

  





 
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Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Speaker Level Mixing

[Adam T. Cately]

At 12:14 PM 12/30/04 -0700, you wrote:
>
>Thats what I wanted to do, but this has to be a discrete solution. 
>The radios have BTL output.

   Try using a couple of caps to isolate the voltage on the lines - 
take both speaker outputs to a mod transformer - IN on the secondaries,
and OUT on the primary - primary to the external speaker.   Old push-
pull audio circuits in CB's are a great source for the mod transformer.
This isn't elegant, but it works...

   - Adam - 

   

  





 
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Re: [Repeater-Builder] Iso Tee Help again

[Adam T. Cately]

At 04:01 AM 12/23/04 -, you wrote:
>
>I know I've brought this subject up before, but have lost all the 
>emails about it.  I need some help building an RF Coupler Iso-Tee to 
>begin learning to adjust duplexers.  Someone gave me some 
>instructions on how to build one out of a pl259/so239 t adapter.  
>Anyone have this information, or the where abouts of where to find 
>such a kritter on the market.  Thanks.
>
>Mathew

   Start with an Amphenol tee connector - you could use any other brand,
as long as it's male pin is threaded, to allow you to unscrew it.  
Carefully back the male pin out, and cut it down (saw/knife/teeth)
so that there will be NO DIRECT CONNECTION to a barrel connector when
one is placed in the male socket.  The amount of pin left sticking up
will give you some control over the amount of rf attenuation - more
pin, more coupling - less pin, less coupling - and you leave the barrel
in place - this is your tap point.  These can be used for your rf sampling
needs in a lot of instances, so they's very handy to have.  Good luck...

   - Adam - 

   

  





 
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[Repeater-Builder] Need tuning instructions for Celwave preselector

[Adam T. Cately]

   Looking for tuning instructions and/or information on a Celwave
model HFD8461A preselector-thingy-do-bob - any help would be appreciated.
Direct replies are encouraged.  Thanks.

   - Adam - 

   

  





 
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Re: [Repeater-Builder] Fan audio

[Adam T. Cately]

   On running DC fans on repeater projects - half of the problem-childs
I have seen are noise super-imposed on the DC lines, and half are radiated
noise caused by cheap brush or brushless fans found at the swaps.  I use
220 AC fans run on 110, and they seem to work just fine... 

   - Adam - 

   

  





 
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[Repeater-Builder] WTB - GE MastrII VHF UHS front-end amp

[Adam T. Cately]

   Looking for a Mastr II UHS amp for VHF - have receiver boards, but
would take another with the amp installed for the right price.  Please
respond to:

   [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
or
   [EMAIL PROTECTED]

   Thanks for reading my message.

   - Adam - 

   

  




 

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Re: [Repeater-Builder] Shack clean-up time

[Adam T. Cately]

   What would you ask in cash for the 1/4K low-band base?  I'm not
too far away in Ohio, and we could meet in Indy for pick-up, if an
agreeable price is negotiated...

>GE Mastr II 330 watt Low Band base currently on 47MHz. This unit has what
>is known as the "IDA Control Shelf". It has two additional LB Mastr II
>monitor receivers, also on 47 MHz. Condition is about a 7 out of 10. I have
>a NOS 4CX250 final amp tube I will throw in with this station. I have a 
>complete
>manual for this rig.

   - Adam - 

   

  




 

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Re: [Repeater-Builder] diddle sticks???

[Adam T. Cately]

   You could try MCM Electronics in Dayton OH for new parts, or Fair Radio
in Lima OH for surplus...

   - Adam - 

   

  




 

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