Re: CS>HELP! Could use some advice on PREVENTING mold

[Garrick]

Thanks much Tom

But how do you avoid the fumes? I was hoping you could set off a chlorite
bomb of sorts and leave the sealed room for a day

The first google entry for fogger is for mold
remediation.
Kind of interesting. Todays foggers are ultrasonic it seems

G






On Mon, Apr 19, 2010 at 9:18 PM, poast  wrote:

>  Hello Garrick,
>
> Assuming that you need 4 liters for your fogger and you are simply trying
> to prevent mold and mildew from forming...
>
> Place 80 ml of 5% sodium chlorite in a container and add 16 ml of 50%
> citric acid.  Swirl together and let this activate for 10 minutes.  Then add
> it to the 4 liters of water in your fogger.
>
> You want to set the fogger to a very fine mist and then you fog from one
> end of the room, then move the fogger to the other end of the room and fog
> back to were the fogger was initially.  You can also fog around the
> perimeter of the room.
>
> You have to be mindful to avoid the fumes.
>
> This solution has 600 PPM available chlorine dioxide (it should not bleach
> but it is best to take care not to spill any) and 120 PPM of that is free
> chlorine dioxide.  The chlorous acid residual will offer protection against
> further mold and mildew growth for 2 - 6 weeks depending on atmospheric
> conditions.
>
> When you are done, be sure to run some water through your fogger.  The
> chlorous acid solution will make the plastic of the fogger brittle and it
> will break if it is not rinsed out.
>
> Tom
>
> - Original Message -
> *From:* Garrick 
> *To:* silver-list@eskimo.com
> *Sent:* Monday, April 19, 2010 4:51 AM
> *Subject:* Re: CS>HELP! Could use some advice on PREVENTING mold
>
> Hi
>
> I would be interested in mixing instructions for future reference. I have
> MMS, I have citric acid which is cheap on eBay. I even know a sodium
> chlorite supplier. My take on MMS is that it disrupts digestion of cooked
> foods. Might be better on a raw diet or juice fast or a mix of the two.
>
> Thanx
> G
>
>
> __
> __
>
>
>
> On Sun, Apr 18, 2010 at 10:30 PM, poast  wrote:
>
>>  Hello Lisa,
>>
>> I would suggest mixing up a chlorous acid solution and fogging it in.
>>
>> If you don't have a fogger, a garden sprayer will work.
>>
>> Chlorous acid is made by adding citric acid to sodium chlorite.
>>
>> Do you have access to these chemicals or know anything about them?
>>
>> When you apply this to the room, it will stabilize the situation.  It will
>> keep mold and mildew from forming, and kill off any that is just starting to
>> form.
>>
>> Let me know if you want to go this way and I can give you the mixing
>> instructions and all the help you need in applying it.
>>
>> Tom
>>
>>  - Original Message -
>> *From:* Lisa 
>> *To:* silver-list@eskimo.com
>>  *Sent:* Sunday, April 18, 2010 12:18 PM
>> *Subject:* CS>HELP! Could use some advice on PREVENTING mold
>>
>>   Hi All,
>>
>>
>>
>> Our boiler died on Friday leaving us with several inches of water in the
>> basement which traveled to carpeted areas. We have vacuumed and also have a
>> dehumidifier running…and it’s lots better but definitely still damp. It
>> wasn’t caught right away so there was steam everywhere and condensation on
>> the walls (almost like a sauna etc.). The boiler will be fixed this week
>> (hopefully…funds are low blah blah blah) but my major concern is mold and
>> mildew. Does anybody have any ideas on how to PREVENT mold from starting?
>> Anything would be helpful as I’m just about clueless…we can’t afford Serve
>> Pro or any other professional to come in and help. I do have a pretty good
>> sized fan (it sounds like an airplane) that I can use…but it’s been raining
>> all weekend (yea…NOT!) and didn’t think it made any sense opening up the
>> windows to potentially allow any more moisture IN.
>>
>>
>>
>> Anybody? Please?
>>
>>
>>
>> And I thank you for even the silliest idea as aside from running the
>> dehumidifier (which by no means is commercial) – I honestly don’t have a
>> clue.
>>
>>
>>
>> Thanks SO much.
>>
>>
>>
>> Lisa
>>
>>
>
>
> --
>
>
> Gurdjieff-- How can you expect fairness and decency on a planet of sleeping
> people?
>
>
>
>


-- 


Gurdjieff-- How can you expect fairness and decency on a planet of sleeping
people?

Re: CS>YO YO EIS

[Roger Barker]

Thanks Tom, I'll certainly give this a try. Will make my bought test  
solution go a lot further.


Cheers, Roger B
NZ


On 20/04/2010, at 12:55 PM, poast wrote:


Hello Roger,

I made 2 calibration solutions.  I first used the supplied calibration
solution to calibrate my meter.  Then I mixed my solutions and  
tested them.

This gives me a primary calibration, and two secondary check points.

I put 1 ml of PH 7 test solution in 499 ml of my tap water.  This  
gives me

123 uS.

I then put 1 ml of PH 7 test solution in 499 ml of distilled  
water.  This

gives me 30 uS.

Since I use PH meters a lot, I have a lot of the test solutions and  
keep
them fresh.  I don't know if the conductivity will vary from batch  
to batch,
but I will have to go through a liter of my test solution before I  
will find

out.

Tom


- Original Message -
From: "Roger Barker" 
To: 
Sent: Sunday, April 18, 2010 7:36 PM
Subject: Re: CS>YO YO EIS



Just as a matter of interest. Does anyone know how to make/mix the
calibration solution for a pH meter?

Cheers, Roger B
NZ




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CS>Treating distilled water

[Harold MacDonald]

I found straight DW very unpalatable until I read some of the works of Dr.Amato 
[sp?] of Tokyo University,a leading expert on water.He is, or was the head of 
water conservation for the Government of Japan...

He studied water in all its' forms and concluded that our present system of 
handling it creates a dead substance.Being compressed for delivery through old 
pipes,treated with chemicals to try to control unsavory organisms,the water is 
essentially dead comprised of many spurious compounds and of a very limited 
ability to aid in good health.

When I distill water,it is flat ,no life to it and not too pleasant to 
drink.However when I do what is recommended by experts in water it comes to 
life and is very good.

I distill into a glass gallon [160 ozs] jug, then it is set on a pad with a 
strong magnet under it with the North pole side up.This is left for up to 24 
Hrs.

Until recently I put a tape of classical music on ,near it,Sadly tape deck is 
defunct now, need a new one.

On opposite sides of the jug I tape on flat 'fridge magnets with Neg, sides in.

Then if there is sunlight,the jug is put out in it for one or two hours.

After all this I put in 45drops of concentrace minerals, approx 1 tspn.

This will bring the pH up to 7.3 to 7.4.

To have had the chance to take a drink out of a mountain stream running over 
rocks is something you won't forget. This water is alive There is even an aroma 
to it that is pleasing, negative ions.,

My treated water comes very close to this .I use this H2O for drinking and 
cooking.

Dr Amato proved this to my satisfaction ,and I will not drink tap water unless 
there is no alternative;and I live in an area where all our water comes from 
snow melt into mountain reservoirs 

I also make So-le with Himalaya salt and when making coffee, I add ¼ tspn of 
this per cup of brew and it sure puts life into it..

For CS/EIS,I double distill to be sure of purity.

I gave up on market DW as it varied too much;so I bought a good distiller.

Harold

Re: CS>Killing poison ivy/oak

[Christina Mattson]

Leslie, i don't know right off hand, we don't have that problem where i live, 
but you may want to find out if there is anything it doesn't like. 
for example i don't like dandelions on my lawn so i pour straight horse manure 
tea on them, it is pure nitrogen and they disapear within a week. In the past i 
have seen natural Herbicides somewhere on the web. Poison Oak and Ivy are 
pretty hardy and Round up will definately kill them.
I don't use it because i have a child and pets that roam around.
Good Luck
Tina 





From: Leslie leslie1...@windstream.net




Do ya'll know anything that will kill Poison Ivy or Poison Oak? I have a lot of 
it just taking over. 
thanks,
 









 



  

Re: CS>HELP! Could use some advice on PREVENTING mold

[Christina Mattson]

Sol, All it lists is Iron (Fe)..0.10% and Zinc (Zn)..0.5%, Derived from Iron 
sulfate and zinc chloride. But next time i go to the shop where i bought it i 
will as if they have a sheet with more info.
You mix it with luke warm water, stir and wait a two minutes until the water 
turns amber
They do recomend you use it with a complete fertilizer.
If the shop gives me more info i'll let you know.
Tina
--- On Mon, 4/19/10, sol  wrote:


From: sol 
Subject: Re: CS>HELP! Could use some advice on PREVENTING mold
To: silver-list@eskimo.com
Date: Monday, April 19, 2010, 3:49 PM


> 
Does your container of the spray n grow give an ingredients list? I don't see 
the ingredients listed at the spray n grow website.
If you have that info could you pls post it?
thanks,
sol


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CS>Killing poison ivy/oak

[MaryAnn Helland]

Round-Up.





From: Leslie leslie1...@windstream.net


Do ya'll know anything that will kill Poison Ivy or Poison Oak? I have a lot of 
it just taking over. 
thanks,

Re: CS>H202 - again

[cking001]

I don't think I'd eat a 100 year old tomato...

On the other hand,Chinese 100 year old eggs are supposed to be a
delicacy...

Chuck
If you pull the wings off a fly, does it become a walk?


On 4/19/2010 12:47:06 PM, Alan Jones (alanmjo...@gmail.com) wrote:
> I guess to backup a step, what exactly does this stmt mean?  Is a store-
> bought, non-organic tomato "more nutritious" than a store-bought tomato
> from 100 years ago?  I could hardly believe that.
> 
> Alan
> 
> On Mon, Apr 19, 2010 at 8:24 AM, Alan Jones  mailto:alanmjo...@gmail.com]> wrote:
> Ode, can you support this statement?
> 
> On Mon, Apr 19, 2010 at 5:43 AM, Ode Coyote  [link: mailto:odecoy...@windstream.net]> wrote:
> 
> Nutrition today is vastly better than it was 100 years ago.
> 


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Re: CS>HELP! Could use some advice on PREVENTING mold

[poast]

Hello Garrick,

Assuming that you need 4 liters for your fogger and you are simply trying to 
prevent mold and mildew from forming...

Place 80 ml of 5% sodium chlorite in a container and add 16 ml of 50% citric 
acid.  Swirl together and let this activate for 10 minutes.  Then add it to the 
4 liters of water in your fogger.

You want to set the fogger to a very fine mist and then you fog from one end of 
the room, then move the fogger to the other end of the room and fog back to 
were the fogger was initially.  You can also fog around the perimeter of the 
room.

You have to be mindful to avoid the fumes.

This solution has 600 PPM available chlorine dioxide (it should not bleach but 
it is best to take care not to spill any) and 120 PPM of that is free chlorine 
dioxide.  The chlorous acid residual will offer protection against further mold 
and mildew growth for 2 - 6 weeks depending on atmospheric conditions.

When you are done, be sure to run some water through your fogger.  The chlorous 
acid solution will make the plastic of the fogger brittle and it will break if 
it is not rinsed out.

Tom
  - Original Message - 
  From: Garrick 
  To: silver-list@eskimo.com 
  Sent: Monday, April 19, 2010 4:51 AM
  Subject: Re: CS>HELP! Could use some advice on PREVENTING mold


  Hi

  I would be interested in mixing instructions for future reference. I have 
MMS, I have citric acid which is cheap on eBay. I even know a sodium chlorite 
supplier. My take on MMS is that it disrupts digestion of cooked foods. Might 
be better on a raw diet or juice fast or a mix of the two. 

  Thanx
  G


  __
  __




  On Sun, Apr 18, 2010 at 10:30 PM, poast  wrote:

Hello Lisa,

I would suggest mixing up a chlorous acid solution and fogging it in.  

If you don't have a fogger, a garden sprayer will work.

Chlorous acid is made by adding citric acid to sodium chlorite.  

Do you have access to these chemicals or know anything about them?

When you apply this to the room, it will stabilize the situation.  It will 
keep mold and mildew from forming, and kill off any that is just starting to 
form.

Let me know if you want to go this way and I can give you the mixing 
instructions and all the help you need in applying it.

Tom
  - Original Message - 
  From: Lisa 
  To: silver-list@eskimo.com 
  Sent: Sunday, April 18, 2010 12:18 PM
  Subject: CS>HELP! Could use some advice on PREVENTING mold


  Hi All,



  Our boiler died on Friday leaving us with several inches of water in the 
basement which traveled to carpeted areas. We have vacuumed and also have a 
dehumidifier running…and it’s lots better but definitely still damp. It wasn’t 
caught right away so there was steam everywhere and condensation on the walls 
(almost like a sauna etc.). The boiler will be fixed this week (hopefully…funds 
are low blah blah blah) but my major concern is mold and mildew. Does anybody 
have any ideas on how to PREVENT mold from starting? Anything would be helpful 
as I’m just about clueless…we can’t afford Serve Pro or any other professional 
to come in and help. I do have a pretty good sized fan (it sounds like an 
airplane) that I can use…but it’s been raining all weekend (yea…NOT!) and 
didn’t think it made any sense opening up the windows to potentially allow any 
more moisture IN.



  Anybody? Please?



  And I thank you for even the silliest idea as aside from running the 
dehumidifier (which by no means is commercial) – I honestly don’t have a clue.



  Thanks SO much.



  Lisa




  -- 


  Gurdjieff-- How can you expect fairness and decency on a planet of sleeping 
people?

Re: CS>H202 - again

[poast]

Hello Ode,

Oh my, where have I been...  I totally missed out on that.  Raised 3 boys
and never once had them bring this up.

Wow.  I am going to have to try it out.

Tom

- Original Message - 
From: "Ode Coyote" 
To: 
Sent: Monday, April 19, 2010 3:18 AM
Subject: Re: CS>H202 - again


> Where have you BEEN?
>   Google "mentos and soda"
>
>   Mentos rockets etc
>
> Ode
>
>
> At 05:28 PM 4/18/2010 -0800, you wrote:
> >Hello Ode,
> >
> >Mentos and soda pop...?  Is there a story that goes with that?
> >
> >Tom
>
>
> --
> The Silver List is a moderated forum for discussing Colloidal Silver.
>   Rules and Instructions: http://www.silverlist.org
>
> Unsubscribe:
>   
> Archives:
>   http://www.mail-archive.com/silver-list@eskimo.com/maillist.html
>
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>

Re: CS>YO YO EIS

[poast]

Hello Tony,

Yes, this could turn into a major project...

I will have to think about this before I decide if it has any real value.  I
was very pleased to see the reaction reverse, and was even more pleased to
see reverse several times.

Right now I am stuck with a solution that keeps using up the ascorbic acid,
then turns clear again.

More head scratching.

Tom


- Original Message - 
From: "Tony Moody" 
To: 
Sent: Sunday, April 18, 2010 11:15 PM
Subject: Re: CS>YO YO EIS


> OKay, !
>
> So it looks like if you add stuff to the distilled water then
> conductivity jumps. :-)
>
> I haven't got graph paper at hand but sketching that looks like a nice
> smooth curve through the ends of the jumps. Adding citric acid seems to
> increase by about 1.35 of previous citric acid jump and adding h2o2 seem
> to be about 22% of the previous citric acid jump, except the pegged data
> may be a bit cramped. It doesn't seem to go backwards like you said I
> think! !?
>
> Hmm, its all a bit hectic and interesting. Where does it stop? ( my guess
> is that it levels off at about 300 after about 6 to 8 AddAdds ; something
> like that.)  Does working with diluted reagents make a difference? Do the
> numbers change with time? ( if you keep a sample of each jump does it
> change with time?  )
>
> Thinks: To see if there is a difference I'd maybe do a bunch of runs with
> distilled water as a control and the EIS , and see if there is a
> difference between the two.  Then you'd have to do another set on each
> AddAdd,  of what happens with time. That's what we are looking for yes?
>
> Have fun,
> Tony
>
> On 18 Apr 2010 at 17:24, poast wrote about :
> Subject : Re: CS>YO YO EIS
>
> > Hello Tony,
> >
> > My distilled water starts at 0.3 uS.
> >
> > Add ascorbic acid and it jumps up to 80 uS.
> > Add H2O2 and it jumps up to 98 uS.
> >
> > Add ascorbic acid and it jumps up to 146 uS.
> > Add H2O2 and it jumps up to 161 uS.
> >
> > Add ascorbic acid and it jumps up to 191 uS.
> > Add H202 and it goes just over 200 uS.  200 uS is the upper limit of
> > my
> > meter.
> >
> > Tom
> >
> >
> >
> > - Original Message - 
> > From: "Tony Moody" 
> > To: 
> > Sent: Saturday, April 17, 2010 9:51 PM
> > Subject: Re: CS>YO YO EIS
> >
> >
> > > Hi Tom,
> > >
> > > How about do the same exercise with distilled water with respect to
> > the
> > > conductivity
> > >
> > > OK,
> > > tony
> > >
> > > On 16 Apr 2010 at 21:09, poast wrote about :
> > > Subject : CS>YO YO EIS
> > >
> > > > I have been exercising some EIS over the past few days.
> > > >
> > > > I started out with a solution that had a conductivity of about 15
> > uS.
> > > >
> > > > I added a very small amount of ascorbic acid.  The solution turned
> > amber
> > > > brown, then went to grey.  However, when I held it up to sunlight,
> > it
> > > > was more amber, but under the kitchen light it was grey.
> > > >
> > > > I then added some H2O2 and didn't think it was going to do anything,
> > but
> > > > the next day the solution was clear, with a good Tyndale effect.
> > > > Conductivity is up to 25 uS.
> > > >
> > > > I then added some more ascorbic acid, and once again ended up with
> > a
> > > > grey solution.
> > > >
> > > > Add more H2O2 and after a while it clears back up.  At this point
> > the
> > > > conductivity of the solution was about 75 uS.
> > > >
> > > > Once again I add some ascorbic acid.  This time there wasn't much of
> > a
> > > > reaction.  I added a little more, and after some time the solution
> > > > turned to a light grey.
> > > >
> > > > Add more H2O2 and after a while it goes clear again.  Conductivity
> > is
> > > > now up to 115 uS.
> > > >
> > > > Added more ascorbic acid and nothing happened.  Added more and
> > finally
> > > > the reaction started.  Let it sit for a few hours, and once again
> > the
> > > > solution is slightly grey.
> > > >
> > > > Add more H2O2 and after a while it goes clear again.  Conductivity
> > is up
> > > > to 185 uS.
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > Questions...
> > > >
> > > > What is going on?
> > > >
> > > > Have I worn this solution out, or is it still good for something?
> > > >
> > > > Is the increase in conductivity due to the addition of the
> > ascorbic
> > > > acid? Or am I chemically making a higher concentration?
> > > >
> > > > Is this similar to what goes on inside the body?
> > > >
> > > > Is this of any use to anyone?
> > > >
> > > > It was a fun experiment, but I am not sure if it has value.  I have
> > to
> > > > confess that I am having too much fun.
> > > >
> > > > Tom
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > --
> > > The Silver List is a moderated forum for discussing Colloidal
> > Silver.
> > >   Rules and Instructions: http://www.silverlist.org
> > >
> > > Unsubscribe:
> > >   
> > > Archives:
> > >   http://www.mail-archive.com/silver-list@eskimo.com/maillist.html
> > >
> > > Off-Topic discussions: 
> > > List O

Re: CS>YO YO EIS

[poast]

Hello Roger,

I made 2 calibration solutions.  I first used the supplied calibration
solution to calibrate my meter.  Then I mixed my solutions and tested them.
This gives me a primary calibration, and two secondary check points.

I put 1 ml of PH 7 test solution in 499 ml of my tap water.  This gives me
123 uS.

I then put 1 ml of PH 7 test solution in 499 ml of distilled water.  This
gives me 30 uS.

Since I use PH meters a lot, I have a lot of the test solutions and keep
them fresh.  I don't know if the conductivity will vary from batch to batch,
but I will have to go through a liter of my test solution before I will find
out.

Tom


- Original Message - 
From: "Roger Barker" 
To: 
Sent: Sunday, April 18, 2010 7:36 PM
Subject: Re: CS>YO YO EIS


> Just as a matter of interest. Does anyone know how to make/mix the
> calibration solution for a pH meter?
>
> Cheers, Roger B
> NZ
>
>
> On 19/04/2010, at 2:24 PM, poast wrote:
>
> > Hello Malcolm,
> >
> > While I totally agree with you, it is just too much fun to simply
> > stop.
> > This batch will be played with to death and never consumed.
> >
> > The saga continues.
> >
> > I decided to add some baking soda to the solution to balance the
> > PH.  The PH
> > had dropped to about 3 and I brought it back up to 6.8.
> >
> > Next I added some ascorbic acid and it turned brown, then almost
> > immediately
> > turned clear again.  I added more and the same thing happened.
> > More is
> > added and the same thing happens again.
> >
> > Finally I ended up with a gray layer at the bottom of the jar, but
> > the rest
> > of the solution is clear.  I just shook it up to see what happens.
> >
> > The PH is now back to 4.6.  Very interesting stuff.  I hold it up
> > to the
> > light with the sun at my back and it looks bluish gray.  When I
> > turn around
> > and look at the sun through the solution it looks dark amber.
> >
> > I find it interesting that I still have a great Tyndal effect and
> > that the
> > solution is staying clear.
> >
> > Oh well, I will exercise (or as Dok commented exOrcise) it a few
> > more times
> > and see what happens.
> >
> > Thanks for your help in trying to figure this out.
> >
> > Tom
> >
>
>
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Re: CS>HELP! Could use some advice on PREVENTING mold

[sol]

Christina Mattson wrote:


Also i just want to share this, Trace mineral spray does wonders for 
plants, it has cured various viruses on my tomatoes. i also read that 
CS is great for plant virus so ill be using that with H2O2 on half my 
plants and EIS with H2O2 on the other to see which does best.
a bottle of Spray n Grow- (Trace Minerals) is expensive but it lasts 
for 3 months used every two weeks or less. Another bonus to trace 
minerals is that the plants were resistant to infestation when they 
were directly next to several plants that had aphids.


Does your container of the spray n grow give an ingredients list? I 
don't see the ingredients listed at the spray n grow website.

If you have that info could you pls post it?
thanks,
sol


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Re: CS>Was:H202, Now: Azomite

[Tel Tofflemire]

Try  -Amozon.com   for  AZOMITE   Bob is 1/2   right,   but they are 
putting it in animal feeds, as well as garden and crop fertilizers.  The 
animals always get tested first with the good stuff.
 Tel Tofflemire
Dewey, AZ.





From: MaryAnn Helland 
To: silver-list@eskimo.com
Sent: Mon, April 19, 2010 5:26:06 AM
Subject: CS>Was:H202, Now: Azomite


Bob -- did you say where one could buy/order the Azomite?  Is this a farm-store 
product?  Thanks.
MA





 From: Bob Banever bbane...@earthlink.net

If you have a garden or farm, a supplement like Azomite would be great to add 
to the soil as fertilizer. Your veggies would be brimming with minerals formed 
40 million years ago when these substances were in abundance.  Since factory 
farms don't use organic methods you will get only a few select minerals that 
might help grow the plants but do little for your varied needs.


  

Re: CS>HELP! Could use some advice on PREVENTING mold

[poast]

Hello Leslie,

MMS is a particular concentration of sodium chlorite and a protocol for 
ingesting it.  There are many different concentrations of sodium chlorite that 
are used in industry.  One industrial use involves keeping mold and mildew from 
forming in areas like walk in coolers.  MMS is too high a concentration to be 
safely used in an application like that.

Tom
  - Original Message - 
  From: Leslie 
  To: silver-list@eskimo.com 
  Sent: Sunday, April 18, 2010 5:59 PM
  Subject: Re: CS>HELP! Could use some advice on PREVENTING mold


  Isn't that MMS? 

Re: CS>Was:H202, Now: Azomite

[Tel Tofflemire]

No not at all ! It is pure minerals and earth trace elements , I know a a 
customers son ( a 40 Yr old ) who had seizuers , ticks, and spells, his mother 
started hi slowly on the AZOMITE and he has had no seizures yet, almost a year. 
 The mineral comes from Utah.  And your right, it is great for crops, and 
gardens, but is being put into some dog & livestock feed.  Buy it on line. Try 
Amazon.com  I seen it there for $4.50 or the like for 2 lbs.
 Tel Tofflemire
Dewey, AZ.





From: Dorothy Fitzpatrick 
To: silver-list@eskimo.com
Sent: Mon, April 19, 2010 6:50:56 AM
Subject: Re: CS>Was:H202, Now: Azomite

Isn't this like Bentonite clay?  dee

On 19 Apr 2010, at 14:41, Tel Tofflemire wrote:

> Google AZOMITE There are lots of places to buy it, it is quite cheep on 
> Amazon.com too,  like $4.95 or so for 2 lbs?
>  
> Tel Tofflemire
> Dewey, AZ.
> http://www.quailwoodherbal.com 
> 
> From: MaryAnn Helland 
> To: silver-list@eskimo.com
> Sent: Mon, April 19, 2010 5:26:06 AM
> Subject: CS>Was:H202, Now: Azomite
> 
> Bob -- did you say where one could buy/order the Azomite?  Is this a 
> farm-store product?  Thanks.
> MA
> 


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Re: CS>HELP! Could use some advice on PREVENTING mold

[Leslie]

Do ya'll know anything that will kill Poison Ivy or Poison Oak? I have a lot of 
it just taking over. 
thanks,
Leslie
  - Original Message - 
  From: Christina Mattson 
  To: silver-list@eskimo.com 
  Sent: Monday, April 19, 2010 5:55 PM
  Subject: Re: CS>HELP! Could use some advice on PREVENTING mold


Hi Dee, This is what works best for me. 1 ounce of H2O2, 1 ounce of 
EIS, and 31 ounces of regular water unless it has chlorine in it because thats 
not really good for the plants and with the H2O2.  If you didn't use the either 
the EIS or the H2O2 than use 32 ounces
(1 quart of water) Spray in on and water with it too because that will 
strengthen the plants imune system as well. During times of high humidity this 
may be a regular maintenance thing but if the imune system is strong it may not 
happen as often. 
Also i just want to share this, Trace mineral spray does wonders for 
plants, it has cured various viruses on my tomatoes. i also read that CS is 
great for plant virus so ill be using that with H2O2 on half my plants and EIS 
with H2O2 on the other to see which does best.
a bottle of Spray n Grow- (Trace Minerals) is expensive but it lasts 
for 3 months used every two weeks or less. Another bonus to trace minerals is 
that the plants were resistant to infestation when they were directly next to 
several plants that had aphids.
Tina

-- On Mon, 4/19/10, Dorothy Fitzpatrick  wrote:


  From: Dorothy Fitzpatrick 
  Subject: Re: CS>HELP! Could use some advice on PREVENTING mold
  To: silver-list@eskimo.com
  Date: Monday, April 19, 2010, 4:30 AM


  Hi Tina I noticed from your posts that you use CS/H202 on your 
plants.  Every year I start off with lovely plants and then the dreaded 'black 
spot' fungus comes along!  Do you know if your solution would prevent/kill this 
and if so, what mix would I use please?  Many thanks in advance.  dee

  On 18 Apr 2010, at 22:51, Christina Mattson wrote:

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Re: CS>HELP! Could use some advice on PREVENTING mold

[Christina Mattson]

Forgot to say that watering with the H2O2 helps prevent and somethimes reverse 
damage due to overwatering.

--- On Mon, 4/19/10, Christina Mattson  wrote:


From: Christina Mattson 
Subject: Re: CS>HELP! Could use some advice on PREVENTING mold
To: silver-list@eskimo.com
Date: Monday, April 19, 2010, 2:55 PM







Hi Dee, This is what works best for me. 1 ounce of H2O2, 1 ounce of EIS, and 31 
ounces of regular water unless it has chlorine in it because thats not really 
good for the plants and with the H2O2.  If you didn't use the either the EIS or 
the H2O2 than use 32 ounces
(1 quart of water) Spray in on and water with it too because that will 
strengthen the plants imune system as well. During times of high humidity this 
may be a regular maintenance thing but if the imune system is strong it may not 
happen as often. 
Also i just want to share this, Trace mineral spray does wonders for plants, it 
has cured various viruses on my tomatoes. i also read that CS is great for 
plant virus so ill be using that with H2O2 on half my plants and EIS with H2O2 
on the other to see which does best.
a bottle of Spray n Grow- (Trace Minerals) is expensive but it lasts for 3 
months used every two weeks or less. Another bonus to trace minerals is that 
the plants were resistant to infestation when they were directly next to 
several plants that had aphids.
Tina
 
-- On Mon, 4/19/10, Dorothy Fitzpatrick  wrote:


From: Dorothy Fitzpatrick 
Subject: Re: CS>HELP! Could use some advice on PREVENTING mold
To: silver-list@eskimo.com
Date: Monday, April 19, 2010, 4:30 AM


Hi Tina I noticed from your posts that you use CS/H202 on your plants.  Every 
year I start off with lovely plants and then the dreaded 'black spot' fungus 
comes along!  Do you know if your solution would prevent/kill this and if so, 
what mix would I use please?  Many thanks in advance.  dee

On 18 Apr 2010, at 22:51, Christina Mattson wrote:

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Re: CS>HELP! Could use some advice on PREVENTING mold

[Christina Mattson]

Hi Dee, This is what works best for me. 1 ounce of H2O2, 1 ounce of EIS, and 31 
ounces of regular water unless it has chlorine in it because thats not really 
good for the plants and with the H2O2.  If you didn't use the either the EIS or 
the H2O2 than use 32 ounces
(1 quart of water) Spray in on and water with it too because that will 
strengthen the plants imune system as well. During times of high humidity this 
may be a regular maintenance thing but if the imune system is strong it may not 
happen as often. 
Also i just want to share this, Trace mineral spray does wonders for plants, it 
has cured various viruses on my tomatoes. i also read that CS is great for 
plant virus so ill be using that with H2O2 on half my plants and EIS with H2O2 
on the other to see which does best.
a bottle of Spray n Grow- (Trace Minerals) is expensive but it lasts for 3 
months used every two weeks or less. Another bonus to trace minerals is that 
the plants were resistant to infestation when they were directly next to 
several plants that had aphids.
Tina
 
-- On Mon, 4/19/10, Dorothy Fitzpatrick  wrote:


From: Dorothy Fitzpatrick 
Subject: Re: CS>HELP! Could use some advice on PREVENTING mold
To: silver-list@eskimo.com
Date: Monday, April 19, 2010, 4:30 AM


Hi Tina I noticed from your posts that you use CS/H202 on your plants.  Every 
year I start off with lovely plants and then the dreaded 'black spot' fungus 
comes along!  Do you know if your solution would prevent/kill this and if so, 
what mix would I use please?  Many thanks in advance.  dee

On 18 Apr 2010, at 22:51, Christina Mattson wrote:

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Re: CS>H202 - again

[Bob Banever]

Alan,

 Unless you buy an heirloom variety organically grown tomato the usual 
store bought tomatoes are inedible.  Hard and tasteless in comparison.  A 
hundred years ago I would assume most of the tomatoes sold were of the organic 
variety.

 Bob
  - Original Message - 
  From: Alan Jones 
  To: silver-list@eskimo.com 
  Sent: Monday, April 19, 2010 9:47 AM
  Subject: Re: CS>H202 - again


  I guess to backup a step, what exactly does this stmt mean?  Is a 
store-bought, non-organic tomato "more nutritious" than a store-bought tomato 
from 100 years ago?  I could hardly believe that.

  Alan


  On Mon, Apr 19, 2010 at 8:24 AM, Alan Jones  wrote:

Ode, can you support this statement?



On Mon, Apr 19, 2010 at 5:43 AM, Ode Coyote  
wrote:


  Nutrition today is vastly better than it was 100 years ago. 



-- 
Alan Jones


  -- 
  Alan Jones

Re: CS>Silver for astmatics

[needling around]

I know how to test them, having been instructed by more than one doctor. 
The problem is in the adjustment.  The only thing I have found that seems to 
help is eating a 'lot' of natural fiber... more than I can usually eat!

PT


- Original Message - 
From: "Dan Nave" 

To: 
Sent: Monday, April 19, 2010 2:22 PM
Subject: Re: CS>Silver for astmatics


Alkalizing without any feedback (by testing) could cause problems too.

You should be able to get pH strips and find a protocol online to use
for saliva and urine pH testing.

Dan

On Mon, Apr 19, 2010 at 1:14 PM, needling around  
wrote:

I have always wondered about this. Whenever I have tried to alkalize I end
up with fungal infections of some sort. I think the thing is to have the
correct pH for each area, however I have no idea how to do that.
PT


- Original Message - From: "Dan Nave" 
To: 
Sent: Monday, April 19, 2010 2:02 PM
Subject: Re: CS>Silver for astmatics


Try checking your body pH. Getting the proper pH should cut down the
ability of pathogens setting up shop in your body.

Dan

On Sun, Apr 18, 2010 at 10:02 AM, Richard Goodwin
 wrote:


I've tried breathing in CS for maybe 30 seconds from a sprayer twice a
day.
I think if there were an infection involved, that would have killed it,
but
there is not necessarily an infection in the lungs. My head is always
stuffed up too, and I have become suspicious of fungus, especially 
perhaps

from mold, maybe even black mold as a possible cause. Spraying my nose
with
CS seems to help clear it up for a while, and then my asthma gets a 
little

better too. Maybe I should concentrate on the fungus/nose thing more...

Dick




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Re: CS>Silver for astmatics

[Dan Nave]

Alkalizing without any feedback (by testing) could cause problems too.

You should be able to get pH strips and find a protocol online to use
for saliva and urine pH testing.

Dan

On Mon, Apr 19, 2010 at 1:14 PM, needling around  wrote:
> I have always wondered about this.  Whenever I have tried to alkalize I end
> up with fungal infections of some sort.  I think the thing is to have the
> correct pH for each area, however I have no idea how to do that.
> PT
>
>
> - Original Message - From: "Dan Nave" 
> To: 
> Sent: Monday, April 19, 2010 2:02 PM
> Subject: Re: CS>Silver for astmatics
>
>
> Try checking your body pH.  Getting the proper pH should cut down the
> ability of pathogens setting up shop in your body.
>
> Dan
>
> On Sun, Apr 18, 2010 at 10:02 AM, Richard Goodwin
>  wrote:
>>
>> I've tried breathing in CS for maybe 30 seconds from a sprayer twice a
>> day.
>> I think if there were an infection involved, that would have killed it,
>> but
>> there is not necessarily an infection in the lungs. My head is always
>> stuffed up too, and I have become suspicious of fungus, especially perhaps
>> from mold, maybe even black mold as a possible cause. Spraying my nose
>> with
>> CS seems to help clear it up for a while, and then my asthma gets a little
>> better too. Maybe I should concentrate on the fungus/nose thing more...
>>
>> Dick
>>
>
>
> --
> The Silver List is a moderated forum for discussing Colloidal Silver.
>  Rules and Instructions: http://www.silverlist.org
>
> Unsubscribe:
>  
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>
> Off-Topic discussions: 
> List Owner: Mike Devour 
>
>
>

Re: CS>Nasal spray (UNCLASSIFIED)

[Dan Nave]

Test your body pH... (and then normalize it)

Dan

On Mon, Apr 19, 2010 at 10:52 AM, Ronald Lowry  wrote:
> Hey kids.neti pots are greatbut water pick makes a nasal irrigater
> that fits on the pic...CS in the reservoir and you can pump up to a qt
> (I believe) of liquid through. I got one when I had sinus surgery, 15 yrs
> ago.any time I feel a sinus infection coming on.or actually I can
> smell them now..saline solution and clean every thing out..should
> work for CS toobut non saline hurts the tender sinus area's .so I
> would mix with saline just to be safe.sometimes technology is good for
> us.
>
> On Mon, Apr 19, 2010 at 10:33 AM, Medwith, Robert J Mr CIV USA AMC
>  wrote:
>>
>> Classification: UNCLASSIFIED
>> Caveats: NONE
>>
>> What can I put in CS to help it penetrate
>> The nasal passage, using CS in nasal spray bottle.
>> Looking for way to battle numerous sinus infections.
>> Looking for some thing simple.
>> How about a drop or 2 of DMSO or Peroxide.
>>
>> Bob
>> Classification: UNCLASSIFIED
>> Caveats: NONE
>>
>>
>
>


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Re: CS>Silver for astmatics

[needling around]

I have always wondered about this.  Whenever I have tried to alkalize I end 
up with fungal infections of some sort.  I think the thing is to have the 
correct pH for each area, however I have no idea how to do that.

PT


- Original Message - 
From: "Dan Nave" 

To: 
Sent: Monday, April 19, 2010 2:02 PM
Subject: Re: CS>Silver for astmatics


Try checking your body pH.  Getting the proper pH should cut down the
ability of pathogens setting up shop in your body.

Dan

On Sun, Apr 18, 2010 at 10:02 AM, Richard Goodwin
 wrote:
I've tried breathing in CS for maybe 30 seconds from a sprayer twice a 
day.
I think if there were an infection involved, that would have killed it, 
but

there is not necessarily an infection in the lungs. My head is always
stuffed up too, and I have become suspicious of fungus, especially perhaps
from mold, maybe even black mold as a possible cause. Spraying my nose 
with

CS seems to help clear it up for a while, and then my asthma gets a little
better too. Maybe I should concentrate on the fungus/nose thing more...

Dick




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Re: CS>Was:H202, Now: Azomite

[Dan Nave]

It consists of about 10% montmorillonite clay.

http://azomite.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=section&layout=blog&id=9&Itemid=28

Dan


On Mon, Apr 19, 2010 at 8:50 AM, Dorothy Fitzpatrick  wrote:
> Isn't this like Bentonite clay?  dee
>
> On 19 Apr 2010, at 14:41, Tel Tofflemire wrote:
>
>> Google AZOMITE There are lots of places to buy it, it is quite cheep on 
>> Amazon.com too,  like $4.95 or so for 2 lbs?
>>
>> Tel Tofflemire
>> Dewey, AZ.
>> http://www.quailwoodherbal.com
>>
>> From: MaryAnn Helland 
>> To: silver-list@eskimo.com
>> Sent: Mon, April 19, 2010 5:26:06 AM
>> Subject: CS>Was:H202, Now: Azomite
>>
>> Bob -- did you say where one could buy/order the Azomite?  Is this a 
>> farm-store product?  Thanks.
>> MA
>>
>
>
> --
> The Silver List is a moderated forum for discussing Colloidal Silver.
>  Rules and Instructions: http://www.silverlist.org
>
> Unsubscribe:
>  
> Archives:
>  http://www.mail-archive.com/silver-list@eskimo.com/maillist.html
>
> Off-Topic discussions: 
> List Owner: Mike Devour 
>
>
>

Re: CS>Silver for astmatics

[Dan Nave]

Try checking your body pH.  Getting the proper pH should cut down the
ability of pathogens setting up shop in your body.

Dan

On Sun, Apr 18, 2010 at 10:02 AM, Richard Goodwin
 wrote:
> I've tried breathing in CS for maybe 30 seconds from a sprayer twice a day.
> I think if there were an infection involved, that would have killed it, but
> there is not necessarily an infection in the lungs.  My head is always
> stuffed up too, and I have become suspicious of fungus, especially perhaps
> from mold, maybe even black mold as a possible cause.  Spraying my nose with
> CS seems to help clear it up for a while, and then my asthma gets a little
> better too.  Maybe I should concentrate on the fungus/nose thing more...
>
> Dick
>


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Re: CS>Silver for astmatics

[Dan Nave]

Dr. Mercola recently wrote that getting vitamin D levels back to
optimum levels was very helpful for asthma.

Dan

"Low Vitamin D Levels Mean Worse Asthma Symptoms
Posted by: Dr. Mercola
April 19 2010 | 114 views


"Low levels of vitamin D are associated with more asthma medication
use and worse lung function in children who suffer from asthma.
Vitamin D also enhances the effect of corticosteroids, an asthma
controller medication.

"When researchers examined the medical records of 100 asthma patients,
they found that those lower in vitamin D had higher levels of IgE, a
marker of allergy.

"Low vitamin D levels were also associated with a lower amount of air
exhaled in one second. Use of drugs such as steroids and beta agonists
were all higher in patients low in vitamin D."


Sources:

  Science Daily April 15, 2010



On Sat, Apr 17, 2010 at 5:14 PM, Ronald Lowry  wrote:
> I am a 60 yo male asthmatic who would like to wean himself off my asthma
> meds by substituting CL via a nebulizer.I am in excellent health, but am
> getting tired of supporting big pharmaand being one of their guinea
> pigs. Has any one tried CL as a cure for asthma, how was it delivered, and
> what were the results? Were you able to remove yourself from your
> prescriptions?
> Thanks
> ron


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CS>Medwith Robert

[Dorothy Fitzpatrick]

I just cannot seem to get any emails from Robert - I just get the little Apple 
'loading' spinner which just goes on and on until I have to delete.  dee

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Re: CS>H202 - again

[Alan Jones]

I guess to backup a step, what exactly does this stmt mean?  Is a
store-bought, non-organic tomato "more nutritious" than a store-bought
tomato from 100 years ago?  I could hardly believe that.

Alan

On Mon, Apr 19, 2010 at 8:24 AM, Alan Jones  wrote:

> Ode, can you support this statement?
>
>
> On Mon, Apr 19, 2010 at 5:43 AM, Ode Coyote wrote:
>
>>
>> Nutrition today is vastly better than it was 100 years ago.
>>
>
> --
> Alan Jones
>

-- 
Alan Jones

Re: CS>Nasal spray (UNCLASSIFIED)

[Ronald Lowry]

Hey kids.neti pots are greatbut water pick makes a nasal irrigater
that fits on the pic...CS in the reservoir and you can pump up to a qt
(I believe) of liquid through. I got one when I had sinus surgery, 15 yrs
ago.any time I feel a sinus infection coming on.or actually I can
smell them now..saline solution and clean every thing out..should
work for CS toobut non saline hurts the tender sinus area's .so I
would mix with saline just to be safe.sometimes technology is good for
us.

On Mon, Apr 19, 2010 at 10:33 AM, Medwith, Robert J Mr CIV USA AMC <
robert.j.medw...@us.army.mil> wrote:

> Classification: UNCLASSIFIED
> Caveats: NONE
>
> What can I put in CS to help it penetrate
> The nasal passage, using CS in nasal spray bottle.
> Looking for way to battle numerous sinus infections.
> Looking for some thing simple.
> How about a drop or 2 of DMSO or Peroxide.
>
> Bob
> Classification: UNCLASSIFIED
> Caveats: NONE
>
>
>

CS>Nasal spray (UNCLASSIFIED)

[Medwith, Robert J Mr CIV USA AMC]

Classification: UNCLASSIFIED
Caveats: NONE

What can I put in CS to help it penetrate
The nasal passage, using CS in nasal spray bottle.
Looking for way to battle numerous sinus infections.
Looking for some thing simple.
How about a drop or 2 of DMSO or Peroxide.

Bob
Classification: UNCLASSIFIED
Caveats: NONE




smime.p7s
Description: S/MIME cryptographic signature

RE: CS>H202 - again - remineralization

[Norton, Steve]

I have seen arguments both for and against the regarding the claim of a
lack of minerals in modern crops. I guess I agree with those that feel
that there is a serious lack of trace minerals in modern food crops.
That is one of the reasons I use bentonite, powdered kelp and blackstrap
molasses for trace mineral supplementation. One other product I like is
humic acid for growing plants to increase their trace mineral content.
You can get humic acid cheap on eBay. Here are some interesting links
courtesy of a previous Brooks Bradley's post:

The Miracle of Remineralization 
http://doctorapsley.com/Remineralization.aspx

Remineralize the Earth
http://www.remineralize.org/site/images/rte_wirec.pdf

 - Steve N

-Original Message-
From: Bob Banever [mailto:bbane...@earthlink.net] 
Sent: Monday, April 19, 2010 7:16 AM
To: silver-list@eskimo.com
Subject: Re: CS>H202 - again

Ode,

 Here is a study showing that organically grown foods do indeed
contain 
more nutrients, including trace minerals, than non organic foods.  Most 
studies done have been flawed and carried out by huge agribusiness
concerns.

http://www.grinningplanet.com/2005/12-27/health-benefits-of-organic-food
-article.htm

I  know personally that when I grow my own veggies they taste better
and 
look better than non organic varieties from the grocery.  Although this
is 
subjective my taste buds and my eyes don't lie.
- Original Message - 
From: "Ode Coyote" 
To: 
Sent: Monday, April 19, 2010 3:43 AM
Subject: Re: CS>H202 - again


>
>
>   Unlike in the old days of total ignorance where farmers burned out
soil 
> so bad it wouldn't even grow weeds and they had to move West, Modern 
> farmers pay a great deal of attention to supplementing soils with
minerals 
> that were never even present in that soil.
>  There is no evidence that modern foods have fewer minerals in them
than 
> old foods, if anything, the *variety* of minerals would have increased
as 
> no two natural soil samples are the same even taken a hundred feet
apart.
> Nutrition today is vastly better than it was 100 years ago.
>  And given that the old pesticides used were mercury and arsenic
based, 
> even the nasty nerve gas based pesticides, as a bad as they are, are 
> better.
>
>  Mineral soils that leach are MADE of minerals and plants use enzymes
and 
> produce acids to extract them.
> On the other hand, it takes water to be the solvent and that water has
to 
> stay around for a while to build up mineral concentration extracted
from 
> the finely ground up stone, plus various other microorganisms and
fungi 
> also extract minerals from the rock particles and lots of organic
matter 
> will help keep the water around and support those other contributors.
> On the other other hand, you can't extract what isn't there, so 
> supplementation is a good idea in either case.
>
> Nothing against organic farming, it's just that the old days of
ignorance 
> [not counting the very few enlightened exceptions] wasn't anything
like 
> todays organic farming and wasn't even as good as modern Agribiz which
no 
> longer has to rely on slash and burn, then move, to get something to
grow.
>
>  Recall that the "Dust Bowl" was 80 years ago?
>  Those farmers came FROM the East BECAUSE the East was burned up and 
> nothing left to slash.
>  ..haven't made one since.
>
> And Eastern forest land has increased by around 90%.  It probably took
40 
> years just for a short needle scrub pine to grow on all those old
terraced 
> fields around here...and now, you have to weed out oaks to even grow a

> pine.
>
> Farming methods can use some improvement, but that doesn't mean that 
> modern Agribiz wasn't an improvement over yesteryear...which was far 
> worse... and very few people lived past 60 only 80 years ago, in large

> part due to dismal nutrition.
>  People are also taller now.
>
> Ode
>
> At 06:51 AM 4/18/2010 -0700, you wrote:
>>Dorothy,
>>
>>70 - 100 years ago we did get our minerals from food.  The
problem 
>> is farmland has been overfarmed and farmed incorrectly which leached
and 
>> destroyed much of the mineral content of the topsoil.  As a result
our 
>> food is devoid of many trace minerals.  If you have a garden or farm,
a 
>> supplement like Azomite would be great to add to the soil as
fertilizer. 
>> Your veggies would be brimming with minerals formed 40 million years
ago 
>> when these substances were in abundance.  Since factory farms don't
use 
>> organic methods you will get only a few select minerals that might
help 
>> grow the plants but do little for your varied needs.
>>
>>Bob
>>- Original Message - From: "Dorothy Fitzpatrick"

>>To: 
>>Sent: Sunday, April 18, 2010 5:55 AM
>>Subject: Re: CS>H202 - again
>>
>>
>>Concentrace ionic minerals are supposed to be good, but I personally
think 
>>you would get most minerals from food.  After all, we would naturally 
>>drink rainwater if we didn't live near a stream--or we didn't have a
water 
>>recycling syst

Re: CS>mold and H202

[needling around]

Interesting.  Must be more physiologically active???
PT

- Original Message - 
From: "Dorothy Fitzpatrick" 

To: 
Sent: Monday, April 19, 2010 8:19 AM
Subject: Re: CS>mold and H202


Thanks for the reply PT.  I have found that the 3% from the 35% I have made, 
is 'fizzier' than the 3% one I bought originally.  dee


On 18 Apr 2010, at 16:34, needling around wrote:

It is my understanding that when it starts to fizz it is killing 
microbes/fungi, etc.

PT





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Re: CS>H202 - again

[Bob Banever]

Ode,

Here is a study showing that organically grown foods do indeed contain 
more nutrients, including trace minerals, than non organic foods.  Most 
studies done have been flawed and carried out by huge agribusiness concerns.


http://www.grinningplanet.com/2005/12-27/health-benefits-of-organic-food-article.htm

   I  know personally that when I grow my own veggies they taste better and 
look better than non organic varieties from the grocery.  Although this is 
subjective my taste buds and my eyes don't lie.
- Original Message - 
From: "Ode Coyote" 

To: 
Sent: Monday, April 19, 2010 3:43 AM
Subject: Re: CS>H202 - again





  Unlike in the old days of total ignorance where farmers burned out soil 
so bad it wouldn't even grow weeds and they had to move West, Modern 
farmers pay a great deal of attention to supplementing soils with minerals 
that were never even present in that soil.
 There is no evidence that modern foods have fewer minerals in them than 
old foods, if anything, the *variety* of minerals would have increased as 
no two natural soil samples are the same even taken a hundred feet apart.

Nutrition today is vastly better than it was 100 years ago.
 And given that the old pesticides used were mercury and arsenic based, 
even the nasty nerve gas based pesticides, as a bad as they are, are 
better.


 Mineral soils that leach are MADE of minerals and plants use enzymes and 
produce acids to extract them.
On the other hand, it takes water to be the solvent and that water has to 
stay around for a while to build up mineral concentration extracted from 
the finely ground up stone, plus various other microorganisms and fungi 
also extract minerals from the rock particles and lots of organic matter 
will help keep the water around and support those other contributors.
On the other other hand, you can't extract what isn't there, so 
supplementation is a good idea in either case.


Nothing against organic farming, it's just that the old days of ignorance 
[not counting the very few enlightened exceptions] wasn't anything like 
todays organic farming and wasn't even as good as modern Agribiz which no 
longer has to rely on slash and burn, then move, to get something to grow.


 Recall that the "Dust Bowl" was 80 years ago?
 Those farmers came FROM the East BECAUSE the East was burned up and 
nothing left to slash.

 ..haven't made one since.

And Eastern forest land has increased by around 90%.  It probably took 40 
years just for a short needle scrub pine to grow on all those old terraced 
fields around here...and now, you have to weed out oaks to even grow a 
pine.


Farming methods can use some improvement, but that doesn't mean that 
modern Agribiz wasn't an improvement over yesteryear...which was far 
worse... and very few people lived past 60 only 80 years ago, in large 
part due to dismal nutrition.

 People are also taller now.

Ode

At 06:51 AM 4/18/2010 -0700, you wrote:

Dorothy,

   70 - 100 years ago we did get our minerals from food.  The problem 
is farmland has been overfarmed and farmed incorrectly which leached and 
destroyed much of the mineral content of the topsoil.  As a result our 
food is devoid of many trace minerals.  If you have a garden or farm, a 
supplement like Azomite would be great to add to the soil as fertilizer. 
Your veggies would be brimming with minerals formed 40 million years ago 
when these substances were in abundance.  Since factory farms don't use 
organic methods you will get only a few select minerals that might help 
grow the plants but do little for your varied needs.


Bob
- Original Message - From: "Dorothy Fitzpatrick" 
To: 
Sent: Sunday, April 18, 2010 5:55 AM
Subject: Re: CS>H202 - again


Concentrace ionic minerals are supposed to be good, but I personally think 
you would get most minerals from food.  After all, we would naturally 
drink rainwater if we didn't live near a stream--or we didn't have a water 
recycling system.  dee


On 18 Apr 2010, at 00:42, Leslie wrote:

OK. What should I do to add some minerals. You mentioned some filter and 
adding Clay? Would appreciate some suggestions and simple directions for 
me and reasonable px. Thanks.

- Original Message - From: "Bob Banever" 
To: 
Sent: Saturday, April 17, 2010 5:37 PM
Subject: Re: CS>H202 - again




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Re: CS>Was:H202, Now: Azomite

[Dorothy Fitzpatrick]

Isn't this like Bentonite clay?  dee

On 19 Apr 2010, at 14:41, Tel Tofflemire wrote:

> Google AZOMITE There are lots of places to buy it, it is quite cheep on 
> Amazon.com too,  like $4.95 or so for 2 lbs?
>  
> Tel Tofflemire
> Dewey, AZ.
> http://www.quailwoodherbal.com 
> 
> From: MaryAnn Helland 
> To: silver-list@eskimo.com
> Sent: Mon, April 19, 2010 5:26:06 AM
> Subject: CS>Was:H202, Now: Azomite
> 
> Bob -- did you say where one could buy/order the Azomite?  Is this a 
> farm-store product?  Thanks.
> MA
> 


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Re: CS>Was:H202, Now: Azomite

[Tel Tofflemire]

Google AZOMITE There are lots of places to buy it, it is quite cheep on 
Amazon.com too,  like $4.95 or so for 2 lbs?
 Tel Tofflemire
Dewey, AZ.
http://www.quailwoodherbal.com 




From: MaryAnn Helland 
To: silver-list@eskimo.com
Sent: Mon, April 19, 2010 5:26:06 AM
Subject: CS>Was:H202, Now: Azomite


Bob -- did you say where one could buy/order the Azomite?  Is this a farm-store 
product?  Thanks.
MA





 From: Bob Banever bbane...@earthlink.net

If you have a garden or farm, a supplement like Azomite would be great to add 
to the soil as fertilizer. Your veggies would be brimming with minerals formed 
40 million years ago when these substances were in abundance.  Since factory 
farms don't use organic methods you will get only a few select minerals that 
might help grow the plants but do little for your varied needs.


  

Re: CS>H202 - again

[Alan Jones]

Ode, can you support this statement?

On Mon, Apr 19, 2010 at 5:43 AM, Ode Coyote wrote:

>
> Nutrition today is vastly better than it was 100 years ago.
>

-- 
Alan Jones

Re: CS>HELP! Could use some advice on PREVENTING mold

[Garrick]

Hi

I would be interested in mixing instructions for future reference. I have
MMS, I have citric acid which is cheap on eBay. I even know a sodium
chlorite supplier. My take on MMS is that it disrupts digestion of cooked
foods. Might be better on a raw diet or juice fast or a mix of the two.

Thanx
G


__
__



On Sun, Apr 18, 2010 at 10:30 PM, poast  wrote:

>  Hello Lisa,
>
> I would suggest mixing up a chlorous acid solution and fogging it in.
>
> If you don't have a fogger, a garden sprayer will work.
>
> Chlorous acid is made by adding citric acid to sodium chlorite.
>
> Do you have access to these chemicals or know anything about them?
>
> When you apply this to the room, it will stabilize the situation.  It will
> keep mold and mildew from forming, and kill off any that is just starting to
> form.
>
> Let me know if you want to go this way and I can give you the mixing
> instructions and all the help you need in applying it.
>
> Tom
>
> - Original Message -
> *From:* Lisa 
> *To:* silver-list@eskimo.com
> *Sent:* Sunday, April 18, 2010 12:18 PM
> *Subject:* CS>HELP! Could use some advice on PREVENTING mold
>
>  Hi All,
>
>
>
> Our boiler died on Friday leaving us with several inches of water in the
> basement which traveled to carpeted areas. We have vacuumed and also have a
> dehumidifier running…and it’s lots better but definitely still damp. It
> wasn’t caught right away so there was steam everywhere and condensation on
> the walls (almost like a sauna etc.). The boiler will be fixed this week
> (hopefully…funds are low blah blah blah) but my major concern is mold and
> mildew. Does anybody have any ideas on how to PREVENT mold from starting?
> Anything would be helpful as I’m just about clueless…we can’t afford Serve
> Pro or any other professional to come in and help. I do have a pretty good
> sized fan (it sounds like an airplane) that I can use…but it’s been raining
> all weekend (yea…NOT!) and didn’t think it made any sense opening up the
> windows to potentially allow any more moisture IN.
>
>
>
> Anybody? Please?
>
>
>
> And I thank you for even the silliest idea as aside from running the
> dehumidifier (which by no means is commercial) – I honestly don’t have a
> clue.
>
>
>
> Thanks SO much.
>
>
>
> Lisa
>
>


-- 


Gurdjieff-- How can you expect fairness and decency on a planet of sleeping
people?

CS>Was:H202, Now: Azomite

[MaryAnn Helland]

Bob -- did you say where one could buy/order the Azomite?  Is this a farm-store 
product?  Thanks.
MA





From: Bob Banever bbane...@earthlink.net

If you have a garden or farm, a supplement like Azomite would be great to add 
to the soil as fertilizer. Your veggies would be brimming with minerals formed 
40 million years ago when these substances were in abundance.  Since factory 
farms don't use organic methods you will get only a few select minerals that 
might help grow the plants but do little for your varied needs.

Re: CS>H202 - again

[Dorothy Fitzpatrick]

Ode does a COM-100 for $55.  I have a TDS meter from him which I have had for 
two years, and have never changed any batteries.  dee

On 19 Apr 2010, at 02:05, poast wrote:

> Hello Leslie,
> 
> It is the PWT by Hanna.  There are several sources for it, but I got mine
> from Trem at SilverGen.  I think he is selling for around $77 with the
> calibration solution.
> 
> Tom
> 
> - Original Message - 
> From: "leslie" 
> To: 
> Sent: Saturday, April 17, 2010 8:51 PM
> Subject: Re: CS>H202 - again
> 
> 
>> How much does that meter cost? My batteries are out of that TDS (?) meter
>> and it takes 4 or 6 which is 6.75 at Utopia. I am not sure that is a
> really
>> good meter either, so thinking to get another kind. thanks, Leslie


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Re: CS>HELP! Could use some advice on PREVENTING mold

[Dorothy Fitzpatrick]

Hi Tina I noticed from your posts that you use CS/H202 on your plants.  Every 
year I start off with lovely plants and then the dreaded 'black spot' fungus 
comes along!  Do you know if your solution would prevent/kill this and if so, 
what mix would I use please?  Many thanks in advance.  dee

On 18 Apr 2010, at 22:51, Christina Mattson wrote:

> Hi Lisa, I have a cold air humidifier (don't know the correct name) it gives 
> off a pretty wet steam so im not sure if you would feel comfertable doing 
> this but I add 3% H2O2 to the water in it to clean the air. 
> I had some Dahlia Tubers that i had planted in Peatmoss because it was 
> cheaper than soil and they started to rot right after they sprouted growth. i 
> watered and sprayed them with an EIS and H2O2 solution and the next day the 
> foliage had perked up again, they are still in the wet peat,. 


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Re: CS>mold and H202

[Dorothy Fitzpatrick]

Thanks for the reply PT.  I have found that the 3% from the 35% I have made, is 
'fizzier' than the 3% one I bought originally.  dee

On 18 Apr 2010, at 16:34, needling around wrote:

> It is my understanding that when it starts to fizz it is killing 
> microbes/fungi, etc.
> PT
> 
> 


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Re: CS>H202 - again

[Ode Coyote]

Where have you BEEN?
 Google "mentos and soda"

 Mentos rockets etc

Ode


At 05:28 PM 4/18/2010 -0800, you wrote:

Hello Ode,

Mentos and soda pop...?  Is there a story that goes with that?

Tom



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Re: CS>H202 - again

[Ode Coyote]

  Unlike in the old days of total ignorance where farmers burned out soil 
so bad it wouldn't even grow weeds and they had to move West, Modern 
farmers pay a great deal of attention to supplementing soils with minerals 
that were never even present in that soil.
 There is no evidence that modern foods have fewer minerals in them than 
old foods, if anything, the *variety* of minerals would have increased as 
no two natural soil samples are the same even taken a hundred feet apart.

Nutrition today is vastly better than it was 100 years ago.
 And given that the old pesticides used were mercury and arsenic based, 
even the nasty nerve gas based pesticides, as a bad as they are, are better.


 Mineral soils that leach are MADE of minerals and plants use enzymes and 
produce acids to extract them.
On the other hand, it takes water to be the solvent and that water has to 
stay around for a while to build up mineral concentration extracted from 
the finely ground up stone, plus various other microorganisms and fungi 
also extract minerals from the rock particles and lots of organic matter 
will help keep the water around and support those other contributors.
On the other other hand, you can't extract what isn't there, so 
supplementation is a good idea in either case.


Nothing against organic farming, it's just that the old days of ignorance 
[not counting the very few enlightened exceptions] wasn't anything like 
todays organic farming and wasn't even as good as modern Agribiz which no 
longer has to rely on slash and burn, then move, to get something to grow.


 Recall that the "Dust Bowl" was 80 years ago?
 Those farmers came FROM the East BECAUSE the East was burned up and 
nothing left to slash.

 ..haven't made one since.

And Eastern forest land has increased by around 90%.  It probably took 40 
years just for a short needle scrub pine to grow on all those old terraced 
fields around here...and now, you have to weed out oaks to even grow a pine.


Farming methods can use some improvement, but that doesn't mean that modern 
Agribiz wasn't an improvement over yesteryear...which was far worse... and 
very few people lived past 60 only 80 years ago, in large part due to 
dismal nutrition.

 People are also taller now.

Ode

At 06:51 AM 4/18/2010 -0700, you wrote:

Dorothy,

   70 - 100 years ago we did get our minerals from food.  The problem 
is farmland has been overfarmed and farmed incorrectly which leached and 
destroyed much of the mineral content of the topsoil.  As a result our 
food is devoid of many trace minerals.  If you have a garden or farm, a 
supplement like Azomite would be great to add to the soil as fertilizer. 
Your veggies would be brimming with minerals formed 40 million years ago 
when these substances were in abundance.  Since factory farms don't use 
organic methods you will get only a few select minerals that might help 
grow the plants but do little for your varied needs.


Bob
- Original Message - From: "Dorothy Fitzpatrick" 
To: 
Sent: Sunday, April 18, 2010 5:55 AM
Subject: Re: CS>H202 - again


Concentrace ionic minerals are supposed to be good, but I personally think 
you would get most minerals from food.  After all, we would naturally 
drink rainwater if we didn't live near a stream--or we didn't have a water 
recycling system.  dee


On 18 Apr 2010, at 00:42, Leslie wrote:

OK. What should I do to add some minerals. You mentioned some filter and 
adding Clay? Would appreciate some suggestions and simple directions for 
me and reasonable px. Thanks.

- Original Message - From: "Bob Banever" 
To: 
Sent: Saturday, April 17, 2010 5:37 PM
Subject: Re: CS>H202 - again




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Re: CS>H202 - again

[Ode Coyote]

  Or after the rain has cleaned the air up...rinsing the bottle, so to speak.

Ode


At 05:27 PM 4/18/2010 -0800, you wrote:

Hello Ode,

Correction...  Distilled water is like rain water before it falls through
all the dust and other crap in the air.

Tom


- Original Message -
From: "Ode Coyote" 
To: 
Sent: Saturday, April 17, 2010 11:36 PM
Subject: Re: CS>H202 - again


>Distilled is like...rain water.
> I'd think that most of your minerals come from food anyhow...but sure,
take
> minerals in either case if you think you need them.
>
> ode
>
>
> At 02:12 PM 4/17/2010 -0500, you wrote:
> >I have started drinking distilled water only. Should I be taking extra
> >minerals?? Our water is terrible and bad things added also like Chlorine.
> >- Original Message - From: "sol" 
> >To: 
> >Sent: Saturday, April 17, 2010 1:22 PM
> >Subject: Re: CS>H202 - again
> >
> >
> >>Dee,
> >>  I would personally use distilled, but then I use distilled for nearly
> >> everything, to avoid the contaminants in the tap water.
> >>But the way to decide would be to consider what you plan to use that
H202
> >>for, and whether tap water minerals and contaminants are going to be
> >>undesireable for those uses.
> >>sol
> >>
> >>Dorothy Fitzpatrick wrote:
> >>>Can anyone (Tony?) tell me if I should use tap water or distilled water
> >>>when making my 3% H202.  If it is alright to use tap I would rather do
> >>>this, but if it is *really* necessary to use DW then I will do that.  I
> >>>noticed on the H202 site it just mentions water.  dee
> >>>
> >>
> >>
> >>--
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> >>
>

Re: CS>YO YO EIS

[Tony Moody]

OKay, !

So it looks like if you add stuff to the distilled water then 
conductivity jumps. :-) 

I haven't got graph paper at hand but sketching that looks like a nice 
smooth curve through the ends of the jumps. Adding citric acid seems to 
increase by about 1.35 of previous citric acid jump and adding h2o2 seem 
to be about 22% of the previous citric acid jump, except the pegged data 
may be a bit cramped. It doesn't seem to go backwards like you said I 
think! !? 

Hmm, its all a bit hectic and interesting. Where does it stop? ( my guess 
is that it levels off at about 300 after about 6 to 8 AddAdds ; something 
like that.)  Does working with diluted reagents make a difference? Do the 
numbers change with time? ( if you keep a sample of each jump does it 
change with time?  )

Thinks: To see if there is a difference I'd maybe do a bunch of runs with 
distilled water as a control and the EIS , and see if there is a 
difference between the two.  Then you'd have to do another set on each 
AddAdd,  of what happens with time. That's what we are looking for yes? 

Have fun,
Tony

On 18 Apr 2010 at 17:24, poast wrote about :
Subject : Re: CS>YO YO EIS

> Hello Tony,
> 
> My distilled water starts at 0.3 uS.
> 
> Add ascorbic acid and it jumps up to 80 uS.
> Add H2O2 and it jumps up to 98 uS.
> 
> Add ascorbic acid and it jumps up to 146 uS.
> Add H2O2 and it jumps up to 161 uS.
> 
> Add ascorbic acid and it jumps up to 191 uS.
> Add H202 and it goes just over 200 uS.  200 uS is the upper limit of
> my
> meter.
> 
> Tom
> 
> 
> 
> - Original Message - 
> From: "Tony Moody" 
> To: 
> Sent: Saturday, April 17, 2010 9:51 PM
> Subject: Re: CS>YO YO EIS
> 
> 
> > Hi Tom,
> >
> > How about do the same exercise with distilled water with respect to
> the
> > conductivity
> >
> > OK,
> > tony
> >
> > On 16 Apr 2010 at 21:09, poast wrote about :
> > Subject : CS>YO YO EIS
> >
> > > I have been exercising some EIS over the past few days.
> > >
> > > I started out with a solution that had a conductivity of about 15
> uS.
> > >
> > > I added a very small amount of ascorbic acid.  The solution turned
> amber
> > > brown, then went to grey.  However, when I held it up to sunlight,
> it
> > > was more amber, but under the kitchen light it was grey.
> > >
> > > I then added some H2O2 and didn't think it was going to do anything,
> but
> > > the next day the solution was clear, with a good Tyndale effect.
> > > Conductivity is up to 25 uS.
> > >
> > > I then added some more ascorbic acid, and once again ended up with
> a
> > > grey solution.
> > >
> > > Add more H2O2 and after a while it clears back up.  At this point
> the
> > > conductivity of the solution was about 75 uS.
> > >
> > > Once again I add some ascorbic acid.  This time there wasn't much of
> a
> > > reaction.  I added a little more, and after some time the solution
> > > turned to a light grey.
> > >
> > > Add more H2O2 and after a while it goes clear again.  Conductivity
> is
> > > now up to 115 uS.
> > >
> > > Added more ascorbic acid and nothing happened.  Added more and
> finally
> > > the reaction started.  Let it sit for a few hours, and once again
> the
> > > solution is slightly grey.
> > >
> > > Add more H2O2 and after a while it goes clear again.  Conductivity
> is up
> > > to 185 uS.
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > Questions...
> > >
> > > What is going on?
> > >
> > > Have I worn this solution out, or is it still good for something?
> > >
> > > Is the increase in conductivity due to the addition of the
> ascorbic
> > > acid? Or am I chemically making a higher concentration?
> > >
> > > Is this similar to what goes on inside the body?
> > >
> > > Is this of any use to anyone?
> > >
> > > It was a fun experiment, but I am not sure if it has value.  I have
> to
> > > confess that I am having too much fun.
> > >
> > > Tom
> >
> >
> >
> > --
> > The Silver List is a moderated forum for discussing Colloidal
> Silver.
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