RE: CS>Yet another question...

2001-11-09 Thread John Kolb
On Sat, 10 Nov 2001, I Anderson wrote:

> Forget the bulb, it is not needed, and serves no useful purpose as far
> as I can see.
> You would need one that worked at 36+ volts anyway.

There is a useful purpose, but hopefully not needed. If the rods
were to short together, there would be a large current drawn,
rapidly draining the battery. If there is a suitable voltage lamp
in series with one of the rods, the current would be limited to
that of the lamp rating and the light emmitted would be a warning
that a short existed. The lamps are a very low resistance compared
to the resistance of the DW and rods, so don't affect the brew time
or resulting CS characteristics.

Looking through the Mouser catalog, for a 3 battery, 27 volt system,
the Chicago Minature # 6838, 28 Volts, 0.024 Amps (24 mA), Mouser
P/N 606-CM6838 $1.70 would be ideal. It has wire leads so a socket
is not required, and would limit current flow to 24 mA. Of course,
if a 28V lamp is used on a 36V system and a short occurs, the bulb
will be very bright for a short time, then fail. Two 18V 26 mA bulbs,
#7220 in series would work well for a 36 V system.

>
> You could obtain 3 X 12V low mA bulbs and tie the legs together (three
> legs joined together X 2) but whether they would light at the <8mA
> that you would be using, I don't know.
>
Three legs tied together sounds like a parallel connection, not
series. With three 12V bulbs wired in parallel, the combination
would still light with 12V applied, but use 3 times the current.
Series connection is what's needed.

Of course, those of us that never make mistooks and never let the
rods bump into each other don't need the light bulbs.

John


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Re: CS>Dead batteries/chaining adaptors

2001-11-06 Thread John Kolb

Let me add:

Usually you will find a white strip running along one edge, or
when you cut the connector off the end and strip back some of
the insulation, you may find one copper and one silver colored
(tinned copper, not silver wire). If all the adapters you are
going to place in series are identical units manufacturer/
model number/voltage and current ratings, you can depend on the
markings being uniform, and connect black lead to white striped
lead, copper colored lead to tinned lead, and have faith they are
wired correctly, without having to use a voltmeter to measure
the output. If mixing different units, all bets are off and
you'll need the voltmeter. As long as both your wires in the
solution are silver, it won't matter if you know which lead
is positive and which is negative, but if you are using only
one silver lead, and stainless or other metal for the other
electrode, then you must know with certainly which lead is
which polarity.

It doesn't matter the current rating of the wall wart - maybe
it's 50 mA (milliampres), maybe 100, 400, 750, 1.4 Ampres,
whatever, because current flow is controlled by the applied
voltage and the resistance, as expressed by ohms law, E=IR
or I=E/R. The CS making process will start with a very high
resistance and only a small number of microampres will flow
at first. Only a few mA will be flowing at the end of the
process, within the capabilities of any wall wart.

Note also that the voltage marked on the case is the voltage
that will be output when the marked current is drawn. When
very low currents are drawn, the output voltage will be much
higher than marked, as much as 50% higher for cheaply made
wall warts. Thus with a voltmeter, you might find that two
9 V units was giving close to the 27 V you would expect from
three 9V batteries. If using three 9V wall warts, the voltage
will be higher than 27 V, and your brewing time will be less
than with batteries.

As has been mentioned before, but can't be repeated too many
times, the wall warts MUST be DC output units, not AC.

John


On Sat, 3 Nov 2001 bober...@postoffice.swbell.net wrote:

> Arthur,
>
> When connecting the output of wall AC to DC transformers yu MUST watch th
> epolarity. If you connect then backwards the voltage will not add. Note the
> color of the wires at the plug end (you will have to cut-off the plugs.) One
> wire will be palin and the other will have some type of identification. 
> Connect
> the identifed wire of one transformer to the un-identified of the next.
> That way the voltages will add. If you have three transformers then to the
> same, connect the identified wire of transfromer #2 to the un=identified wire
> of #3 abd you will have 3 X voltage of one transfromer.
>
> "Ole Bob"
>
>
>
>
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Re: CS>Re: silver-digest Digest V101 #553; agitation motors

2001-06-11 Thread John Kolb
On Sat, 9 Jun 2001, Tony Moody wrote:

> OK if that is what you get now , you are quite right. The one One
> thinking of was 0 to 12 volts and very controllable.
> Tony
>

An electric train transformer might be 0 - 12 V out, but since my
Dremel tool plugs into the 115 V wall socket, a speed controller box
it would plug into woud be 0 -115 out, and touching both leads, or
the hot lead and ground, could kill you.

John


> John Kolb wrote:
> >
> > On Fri, 8 Jun 2001, Tony Moody wrote:
> >
> > > A speed controller for a Dremel drill or for an electric train or for a
> > > slot car setup should do a fine job of slowing down a small dc motor.
> > > You will probably have to start up at a medium speed setting then slow
> > > down to a crawl for continuous stirring.
> > > Tony
> >
> > A dremel speed controller, which can put out 0 to 115 or so Volts
> > of AC power does not sound like something to plug a 3 V DC motor
> > into.
> >


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Re: CS>Re: silver-digest Digest V101 #553; agitation motors

2001-06-08 Thread John Kolb
On Fri, 8 Jun 2001, Tony Moody wrote:

> A speed controller for a Dremel drill or for an electric train or for a
> slot car setup should do a fine job of slowing down a small dc motor.
> You will probably have to start up at a medium speed setting then slow
> down to a crawl for continuous stirring.
> Tony

A dremel speed controller, which can put out 0 to 115 or so Volts
of AC power does not sound like something to plug a 3 V DC motor
into.


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Re: CS>Ozone

2001-05-04 Thread John Kolb
On Fri, 4 May 2001, Arthur Rambo wrote:

> I have used rectal insufflation ozone @22-28 mcg dosage  1 1/2 minutes,
> held for 20 mins. once a day for 21 days on, 7 days off, repeat to
> approx. 100 doses for hep c. (30 years abnormal liver function)
>   Acheived normal liver function.

Careful with the pressure on that - I remember my Dad coming home
from work rather upset one day long ago. Seems a guy at work was
horsing around and stuck an air hose up his rectum and turned
it on - wrecked him for sure.

>
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Re: CS>Aspartame: Is there Reliable Research that Supports theConclusions Below?

2001-04-12 Thread John Kolb
On Fri, 13 Apr 2001, Ivan Anderson wrote:

> If you have exchanged cells you have exchanged DNA. Of course most of the
> DNA you import is in food, and I know that if you eat too many carrots you
> start to look like one :-)

Oh my gosh, my round belly is from donut DNA :(

John


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Re: CS>Re: DC accross lymph nodes modality

2000-11-21 Thread John Kolb
On Tue, 21 Nov 2000, Marshall Dudley wrote:

> russ e rosser wrote:
> 
> > If the
> > wands were in series with the short, I'm afraid *the body* might supply
> > enough resistance (up to 1 Meg ohm, initially) to delay the breaker
> > response.
> 
> 120 VAC and 1 megohm gives .12 mA.  That is not enough current to make it cut
> out, a fuse blow, or to even feel.
> 
> > The bottom line, of course, is to stop current flow >5mA
> > through the wands.
> 
> 2 mA is less than 5 mA, if that is a correct figure.
> 

If a 100 kilohm resistor is placed in series with each wand, the 
peak current would be limited to less than 2 mA from a short to
the 120 V AC power line. 

These would both be in series for the desired current from one wand
to the other. With 9V pulses, the peak current would be 45 microA
or less, but someone said only a few uA was needed. If 45 uA
is enough, resistors offer the best protection.

John


> >  Amid any uncertainty as to freak circuits that might
> > *possibly* arise, a fuse in-line with a wand would *definitely* eliminate
> > ANY conceivable shock above its rating.  Cheap, too, BTW.
> 
> I disagree.  How fast is the fuse, usually they can take seconds to melt when
> near their rating.  Also they don't even approach their rating until you are
> far above the 5 mA you indicate you want to guard against.
> 
> Marshall
> 
> see http://www.addisselectric.com/gfcipage.htm also.
> 
> 
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Re: CS>Re: DC accross lymph nodes modality

2000-11-21 Thread John Kolb
On Tue, 21 Nov 2000, russ e rosser wrote:

> Very enlightening, but would any of this apply to 'wall warts', which
> never have a 3rd prong?  --Russ

The GFI's don't measure the current in the ground lead, but react
to the difference in current between the hot and neutral side of the
power line. There should never be a difference between the two - if
there is, it might be flowing through the ground lead, but it might
also be flowing through a human body to the cold water pipe. In either
case, the GFI will trip removing power.

John

> 
> On Tue, 21 Nov 2000 17:40:55 -0500 Marshall Dudley 
> writes:
> > russ e rosser wrote:
> > 
> > > Doesn't a GFI just have an internal breaker that's set at a usable 
> > amp
> > > rating for appliances?
> > 
> > No, a GFI breaker is a "ground fault interrupter."  It senses if 
> > current is
> > going to ground instead of back the other wire, and breaks th 
> > circuit
> > immediately if so.  I am not sure where they normally break, I 
> > thought it was
> > about 5 mA, but this site claims they cut out at 2 mA.
> > http://www.suttondesigns.com/glossary/gfci.shtml
> > 
> > > If so, it would be triggered by the buildup of
> > > *heat* which requires precious milliseconds, if not seconds.
> > 
> > These devices are not sensitive to heat and do not use heat like a 
> > normal
> > breaker.  They work in about 1/50 second although
> > http://www.misterfixit.com/gfi.htm claims they operate in about 10 
> > msec.
> > 
> > > If the
> > > wands were in series with the short, I'm afraid *the body* might 
> > supply
> > > enough resistance (up to 1 Meg ohm, initially) to delay the 
> > breaker
> > > response.
> > 
> > 120 VAC and 1 megohm gives .12 mA.  That is not enough current to 
> > make it cut
> > out, a fuse blow, or to even feel.
> > 
> > > The bottom line, of course, is to stop current flow >5mA
> > > through the wands.
> > 
> > 2 mA is less than 5 mA, if that is a correct figure.
> > 
> > >  Amid any uncertainty as to freak circuits that might
> > > *possibly* arise, a fuse in-line with a wand would *definitely* 
> > eliminate
> > > ANY conceivable shock above its rating.  Cheap, too, BTW.
> > 
> > I disagree.  How fast is the fuse, usually they can take seconds to 
> > melt when
> > near their rating.  Also they don't even approach their rating until 
> > you are
> > far above the 5 mA you indicate you want to guard against.
> > 
> > Marshall
> > 
> > see http://www.addisselectric.com/gfcipage.htm also.
> > 
> > 
> > --
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> > silver.
> > 
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> > 
> 
> 


Re: CS>Re: DC accross lymph nodes modality

2000-11-20 Thread John Kolb
On Mon, 20 Nov 2000, russ e rosser wrote:

> Yes.  Try them & see; let us know what works.  
> 
> Although current is the danger, voltage pushes the current.  The
> (unlikely but possible) danger of a transformer shorting is the sudden
> jump from 9-12 to 115V, which would multiply the current commensurably. 
> Batteries couldn't do that; their max. voltage is fixed.  You should
> determine empirically what voltage with your particular body resistance,
> current tolerance, etc.

The transformer is not likely to short out in a fashion that would
cause it to have 115 V between the two ends of the secondary winding
that normally output 9-12 v. The danger is a short circuit between
some point on the primary winding to some point on the secondary.
If the defective point on the primary is near the hot side of the
AC line, then both ends of the secondary will be perhaps 115V above
ground, and if a person in contact with the secondary voltage via
hand held probes is also in contact with ground, a possibily letal
shock would result. It doesn't matter which point on the secondary
winding the primary is shorted to. If the top of the primary were
to short to the middle of a 10V secondary winding, there would still
be 10V between the two probes, but one would be 110V above ground 
and the other would be 120V above ground. Either would kill.

If the short circuit were to the middle of the primary winding,
then the secondary winding would be 55 V or so above ground,
still dangerous in some conditions.

Because the danger is a primary to secondary short, there is
no way to protect with MOV's across the windings. If the supply
is equiped with a 3 wire plug, connecting one side of the 
secondary winding to green wire safty ground, and having proper 
sized fuses in both sides of the primary winding would provide
a great amount of protection. Using a style of power transformer
where the winding bobbin is divided providing a solid plastic
barrier between the primary and secondary is also good, but
beyond the control of those using wall warts.

The above discussion is written as if the user is holding
paddles directly connected to the transformer secondary
winding: in a real circuitry, the secondary winding goes
through a diode bridge to become DC voltage, then to 
circuitry to produce the desired pulses, but none of that
will provide isolation which would protect the user from
the danger of a shorted transformer.

I'll stick to battery designs, myself, although the risk of
a quality transformer failing is extremely low. If it weren't
for bad luck, I wouldn't have any luck at all.

John


> 
> On Tue, 14 Nov 2000 22:19:11 -0600 "John Draper" 
> writes:
> > 
> > Russ,
> > 
> > Thank you for the information. I have access to Beck's Gray's 
> > anatomy
> > diagrams.
> > 
> > One question though comes to mind right now is, couldn't a person 
> > use
> > batteries instead of a tranformer to avoid risk of electrocution? If 
> > so,
> > what is the voltage required?
> > 
> > Thanks,
> > 
> > John
> > 
> > 
> > - Original Message -
> > From: "russ e rosser" 
> > To: 
> > Cc: 
> > Sent: Tuesday, November 14, 2000 9:01 PM
> > Subject: Re: DC accross lymph nodes modality
> > 
> > 
> > > If you make these, be advised of the "current" discussion: It's 
> > not
> > > impossible for a transformer to short input power to the leads.  
> > In this
> > > unlikely event, you could die painfully.  One of the posted 
> > suggestions
> > > for limiting the current should probably be incorporated 
> > imminently.
> > > Wherever the sponges contact the body, current will pass between 
> > them.
> > > Beck included a lymph node chart from Gray's Anatomy with his 
> > blood
> > > boxes.  I have a new edition but no scanner; let me know if you 
> > need a
> > > photocopy...
> > >
> > > --Russ
> > >
> > > > Hi Russ,
> > > >
> > > > Please explain the procedure you use of putting DC accross lymph
> > > > nodes to
> > > > create cleansing reactions and also nullifying deep dental
> > > > infections with
> > > > LVDC - I'm interested in both of these.
> > > >
> > > > Thanks,
> > > >
> > > > John
> > >
> > 
> 
> 
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Re: CS>FW:CS>making CS

2000-10-27 Thread John Kolb
On Wed, 25 Oct 2000, Duncan Crow wrote:

> Hi Dean;
> 
> Thank you for your input. I'm glad we have our discussion group. The fusing
> was strictly a guess. The design is not mine. The first one I saw had a
> 3-amp fuse. Yes, wall current is dangerous but functional.  Three families
> had been using that unit for a year.  Yes, it makes colloid quick. No,
> no-one dares touch the electrodes. I attached the diagram only because
> someone asked how to make CS more quickly.
> 

Some people might say if one has to use Duncan's device to keep one 
hand in your pocket, and the other hand holding the extension cord
into the wall socket, 20 feet away from the electrodes and water
to be safe. Not me. I wouldn't say anything about how to use such
a inherently dangerous device. The first person to electrocute
themself would be sure to sue me.

I will say that if one were to go to Radio Shack and ask for a 
15 amp diode bridge, they would probably get one rated for 50 
volts peak, and for an application for 115 volt household power,
one would want a bridge rated for at least 400V. When the 115 V
is applied to the bridge, it will probably short out, causing
lots of current to flow, the wires to overheat and since the
fuse is between the diode bridge and the electrodes, instead
of between the power source and the diode bridge, there's
nothing to prevent enough current flowing to melt the power cord
and burn the house down. Of course the household fuse or 
circuit breaker at the main panel will probably blow eventually.

John



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Re: CS>Introduction [harbor freight]

2000-08-09 Thread John Kolb
On Wed, 9 Aug 2000, blue_eyes wrote:

> I just checked the Mouser Electronics catalogue (on compact disk)
> and found "regular" LEDs that are blue (430nm), green (565nm),
> yellow (585nm) and red (660nm).

Of course, these put out a beam of light anywhere from 36 to
120 degrees wide, not the 1/2" circle at 50 feet spot of a laser
pointer so an optical system of some sort would have to be added.

John


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Re: CS>Warts

2000-08-06 Thread John Kolb
On Fri, 4 Aug 2000, Marshall Dudley wrote:

> I think I will try holding the negative electrode in my hand, and applying the
> positive pulses with a piece of 14 gauge silver wire directly to the wart
> after wetting it with CS.  That might drive silver ions directly into the wart
> enhancing the effect the zapping might have on it.

I have what the doctor calls skin tags - couldn't find much info
on them on the internet last time I looked - anyone know if CS or
pulsers will rid me of them?

John


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Re: CS>LOLs

2000-08-01 Thread John Kolb
On Tue, 1 Aug 2000, Marshall Dudley wrote:

> Wow!  That is impressive.  I don't see how anyone could do that much 
in one lifetime.  Is it all in this lifetime, or is he counting past 
lives as well?

Wayne Green's brag list is all from this life. He's also
a member of Mensa - didn't see that listed. A lot of his firsts
come from his position as an editor of a leading ham radio magazine,
and later as a publisher of one, leading to being in a position
to hear of new ideas, and the money to persue them, but the energy
and dedication to persue them comes from him and he deserves 
the credit. He's widely derided in ham radio circles for his 
ideas such as moon fraud, running a couple of articles in 73 Magazine
on how to build pulsers, colodial silver, etc. In this  group,
we certainly won't knock ALL his ideas. He sells silver wire, BTW,
to bring this completely on topic. Always has interesting
editorials in his magazines.

John





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