Re: CS>Clear, clear water and a question
No, the silver electrode's conductivity stays very high the entire time. It is the conductivity of the water that is increasing over time. Marshall Todd Paddock wrote: > So at the end of brewing led gets brighter because silver is increasing > conductivity? > Thanks > Todd > > >From: CWFugitt > >Reply-To: silver-list@eskimo.com > >To: silver-list@eskimo.com > >Subject: RE: CS>Clear, clear water and a question > >Date: Sat, 11 Nov 2006 10:22:06 -0600 > > > >Evening Tod, > > > > >> 09:55 AM 11/11/2006, you wrote: > > > >> And it should just barely lite when electrodes are just touching the > >>water. > > > >It is actually even simpler than Ode stated. > > > >If you lower the electrodes totally into the water, the LED should barely > >light. ( In very good water ) > > > >This will vary of course with the LED, Voltage Source, and circuitry > >involved. > > > >With practice, you know what is the best water you ever get, > >water a little worse, and water you don't want to use. > > > >He was giving some exact numbers. Water is two or three classes. > > > >Good, > >Barely acceptable > >Junk > > > >We usually don't have 99 choices of water. > > > >Wayne > > > > > > > > > >-- > >The Silver List is a moderated forum for discussing Colloidal Silver. > > > >Instructions for unsubscribing are posted at: http://silverlist.org > > > >To post, address your message to: silver-list@eskimo.com > > > >Address Off-Topic messages to: silver-off-topic-l...@eskimo.com > > > >The Silver List and Off Topic List archives are currently down... > > > >List maintainer: Mike Devour > > > > > > _ > Find a local pizza place, music store, museum and more then map the best > route! http://local.live.com?FORM=MGA001
RE: CS>Clear, clear water and a question
You got it Dude! Ode At 10:22 AM 11/11/2006 -0600, you wrote: Evening Tod, >> 09:55 AM 11/11/2006, you wrote: And it should just barely lite when electrodes are just touching the water. It is actually even simpler than Ode stated. If you lower the electrodes totally into the water, the LED should barely light. ( In very good water ) This will vary of course with the LED, Voltage Source, and circuitry involved. With practice, you know what is the best water you ever get, water a little worse, and water you don't want to use. He was giving some exact numbers. Water is two or three classes. Good, Barely acceptable Junk We usually don't have 99 choices of water. Wayne -- The Silver List is a moderated forum for discussing Colloidal Silver. Instructions for unsubscribing are posted at: http://silverlist.org To post, address your message to: silver-list@eskimo.com Address Off-Topic messages to: silver-off-topic-l...@eskimo.com The Silver List and Off Topic List archives are currently down... List maintainer: Mike Devour -- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.1.409 / Virus Database: 268.14.2/528 - Release Date: 11/10/2006 -- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. Version: 7.1.409 / Virus Database: 268.14.2/528 - Release Date: 11/10/2006 -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. Version: 7.1.409 / Virus Database: 268.14.2/528 - Release Date: 11/10/2006
RE: CS>Clear, clear water and a question
At 10:55 AM 11/11/2006 -0500, you wrote: If the LED never gets fully bright with full electrode exposure, the water is 1 uS or under . If just touching the water makes the LED fully bright, that's 20 uS and over. Read range is between 1 and 20 uS. Accuracy is slightly better than a PPM/TDS meter but not as good as a good conductivity meter. I'm brand new but it sounds like I a may have a similar system to yours. Just to see if I understand the lower the reading before brewing is better correct. And it should just barely lite when electrodes are just touching the water. Thanks Todd Paddock If the water is really good, you may not be able to see the LED shine at all in a well lit room with electrodes fully submerged. ode _ Stay in touch with old friends and meet new ones with Windows Live Spaces http://clk.atdmt.com/MSN/go/msnnkwsp007001msn/direct/01/?href=http://spaces.live.com/spacesapi.aspx?wx_action=create&wx_url=/friends.aspx&mkt=en-us -- The Silver List is a moderated forum for discussing Colloidal Silver. Instructions for unsubscribing are posted at: http://silverlist.org To post, address your message to: silver-list@eskimo.com Address Off-Topic messages to: silver-off-topic-l...@eskimo.com The Silver List and Off Topic List archives are currently down... List maintainer: Mike Devour -- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.1.409 / Virus Database: 268.14.2/528 - Release Date: 11/10/2006 -- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. Version: 7.1.409 / Virus Database: 268.14.2/528 - Release Date: 11/10/2006 -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. Version: 7.1.409 / Virus Database: 268.14.2/528 - Release Date: 11/10/2006
Re: CS>Clear, clear water and a question
On 11/12/06, Ian Roe wrote: You mean, Prill Water - yes it does wonders for anyone. It can bring on a cleansing process but that come from doing anything healthy sometimes. Hi I'm curious about the Prill Water. It's something I've never heard of before. Does it really work? Is it really good for you? I have a hard time drinking tap water because of the taste, even when I filter it, but I really grudge the carbon footprint of using bottled water. So this sounds apealing if it really works. Kirsteen Chaos, confusion, disorder - my work here is done
RE: CS>Clear, clear water and a question
Thanks for this detailed response. Regarding the hook-up of the multi-tester to measure current, I understand what needs to be done. But the use of the voltmeter to measure conductivity seems a bit complex and beyond the time slot that I have, so I will not try that, but I appreciate the explanation. Peter -- The Silver List is a moderated forum for discussing Colloidal Silver. Instructions for unsubscribing are posted at: http://silverlist.org To post, address your message to: silver-list@eskimo.com Address Off-Topic messages to: silver-off-topic-l...@eskimo.com The Silver List and Off Topic List archives are currently down... List maintainer: Mike Devour
Re: CS>Clear, clear water and a question
You mean, Prill Water - yes it does wonders for anyone. It can bring on a cleansing process but that come from doing anything healthy sometimes. Ian Roe Alkalinize your body for health. http://www.roe.freelife.com WOW!! My Affiliate Site Freelife, The Himalayan Goji Juice Company - Original Message - From: To: Sent: Friday, November 10, 2006 10:27 AM Subject: Re: CS>Clear, clear water and a question IS PRILLS OK TO DRINK??? -- Original message -- From: "Ian Roe" Hello: No! Prills actually dissolve a little in water and increase the total dissolved solids. The best water is distilled. I use distilled at 1.2 ppm TDS and it works well. Ian Roe Alkalinize your body for health. http://www.roe.freelife.com WOW!! My Affiliate Site Freelife, The Himalayan Goji Juice Company - Original Message - From: To: Sent: Thursday, November 09, 2006 10:34 AM Subject: Re: CS>Clear, clear water and a question >I HAVE ANOTHER QUESTION, IS PRILL WATER OK TO USE IN MAKING CS?? > MARY > -- Original message -- -- The Silver List is a moderated forum for discussing Colloidal Silver. Instructions for unsubscribing are posted at: http://silverlist.org To post, address your message to: silver-list@eskimo.com Address Off-Topic messages to: silver-off-topic-l...@eskimo.com The Silver List and Off Topic List archives are currently down... List maintainer: Mike Devour
RE: CS>Clear, clear water and a question
So at the end of brewing led gets brighter because silver is increasing conductivity? Thanks Todd From: CWFugitt Reply-To: silver-list@eskimo.com To: silver-list@eskimo.com Subject: RE: CS>Clear, clear water and a question Date: Sat, 11 Nov 2006 10:22:06 -0600 Evening Tod, >> 09:55 AM 11/11/2006, you wrote: And it should just barely lite when electrodes are just touching the water. It is actually even simpler than Ode stated. If you lower the electrodes totally into the water, the LED should barely light. ( In very good water ) This will vary of course with the LED, Voltage Source, and circuitry involved. With practice, you know what is the best water you ever get, water a little worse, and water you don't want to use. He was giving some exact numbers. Water is two or three classes. Good, Barely acceptable Junk We usually don't have 99 choices of water. Wayne -- The Silver List is a moderated forum for discussing Colloidal Silver. Instructions for unsubscribing are posted at: http://silverlist.org To post, address your message to: silver-list@eskimo.com Address Off-Topic messages to: silver-off-topic-l...@eskimo.com The Silver List and Off Topic List archives are currently down... List maintainer: Mike Devour _ Find a local pizza place, music store, museum and more then map the best route! http://local.live.com?FORM=MGA001
RE: CS>Clear, clear water and a question
Evening Tod, >> 09:55 AM 11/11/2006, you wrote: And it should just barely lite when electrodes are just touching the water. It is actually even simpler than Ode stated. If you lower the electrodes totally into the water, the LED should barely light. ( In very good water ) This will vary of course with the LED, Voltage Source, and circuitry involved. With practice, you know what is the best water you ever get, water a little worse, and water you don't want to use. He was giving some exact numbers. Water is two or three classes. Good, Barely acceptable Junk We usually don't have 99 choices of water. Wayne -- The Silver List is a moderated forum for discussing Colloidal Silver. Instructions for unsubscribing are posted at: http://silverlist.org To post, address your message to: silver-list@eskimo.com Address Off-Topic messages to: silver-off-topic-l...@eskimo.com The Silver List and Off Topic List archives are currently down... List maintainer: Mike Devour
RE: CS>Clear, clear water and a question
If the LED never gets fully bright with full electrode exposure, the water is 1 uS or under . If just touching the water makes the LED fully bright, that's 20 uS and over. Read range is between 1 and 20 uS. Accuracy is slightly better than a PPM/TDS meter but not as good as a good conductivity meter. I'm brand new but it sounds like I a may have a similar system to yours. Just to see if I understand the lower the reading before brewing is better correct. And it should just barely lite when electrodes are just touching the water. Thanks Todd Paddock _ Stay in touch with old friends and meet new ones with Windows Live Spaces http://clk.atdmt.com/MSN/go/msnnkwsp007001msn/direct/01/?href=http://spaces.live.com/spacesapi.aspx?wx_action=create&wx_url=/friends.aspx&mkt=en-us -- The Silver List is a moderated forum for discussing Colloidal Silver. Instructions for unsubscribing are posted at: http://silverlist.org To post, address your message to: silver-list@eskimo.com Address Off-Topic messages to: silver-off-topic-l...@eskimo.com The Silver List and Off Topic List archives are currently down... List maintainer: Mike Devour
RE: CS>Clear, clear water and a question
At 11:26 AM 11/10/2006 -0800, you wrote:
How would you use the voltmeter to monitor conductivity?
You would need an absolute current control and absolute electrode position
repeatability to do that.
Conductivity relates to current , distance and surface area. If max
controlled current and spacing remain the same, measuring surface area
exposure required to achieve the set current draw can be used to measure
conductivity. Each fractional inch of electrode exposure will correspond
to some conductivity value in microsiemens by withdrawing the electrode
from the water to just at the point where current starts to drop, then
measuring how much electrode is in the water.
You'll need a conductivity meter to relate the exposure to microsiemens
per fractional inch and get a number...which makes the exercise redundant
if you have the meter. But anyone else with exactly the same setup can use
the correlations...as.. a meter.
In my case, the LED on the generator is in series with the output and
brightness can determine where max current is when the electrodes are moved
up and down in the water.
Read range has limits.
If the LED never gets fully bright with full electrode exposure, the
water is 1 uS or under . If just touching the water makes the LED fully
bright, that's 20 uS and over. Read range is between 1 and 20 uS.
Accuracy is slightly better than a PPM/TDS meter but not as good as a
good conductivity meter.
I would like to
know such a process. Also, can you tell me how to hook up the ammeter in the
system so that I can monitor current? Thanks
Cut one electrode wire and put ammeter in series to monitor current.
Using constant voltage output, the current draw can be used to determine
conductivity.
Using constant current output, the voltage can be used to determine
conductivity.
...to some degree of accuracy...within some read range, because the actual
process interferes somewhat and the interference increases with PPM after
some point. [ at somewhere around 20 to 30 uS, even a "good" meter slews
off in comparing uS apples to PPM oranges]
Ode
Peter
-Original Message-
From: Ode Coyote [mailto:odecoy...@alltel.net]
Sent: Friday, November 10, 2006 4:24 AM
To: silver-list@eskimo.com
Subject: Re: CS>Clear, clear water and a question
You can't really use time alone to predict PPM.
Only slightly purer water can make a really big difference to get to the
same stopping point
Best bet is to get a conductivity meter
Next best , a PPM/TDS meter
Or even just an volt meter [multi meter ]
"Some" way to tell where you are in the process.
ode
At 11:03 AM 11/9/2006 -0400, you wrote:
>My respected and beloved C S Forum Friends!
>
>
>
>After four years of happily and a bit proudly making my own Colloidal
>Silver at home, and thriving by it for our health, giving it or selling it
>to clients and friends, truth came up a few days ago:
>
>The water I have been using (Spa water) was okay, but not the best in the
>world. The result was always a grayish mist, and it tasted strongly. Yet,
>I only rejected it if there would be a yellowish cloud on the bottom of
>the glass I make my water in. Then, I would use it for external things
>like plants, animals and wounds. For the remainder cleanliness has been
>our lead since day one.
>
>
>
>Now, an importer imported "le Bleu" ('the Blue' Â not that movie). It is
>absolutely clean (distilled) water, for drinking purposes. A
>friend-in-healthcare alerted me to it. Of late he is preparing his CS with
>this water, always being in search for the best. He told me that "le Bleu"
>is the best quality of water on our (limited island) market. Clean, and my
>C S water would come out transparent as any crystal cup.
>
>
>
>So I gave it a try the old way:
>
>Two silver rods in the water, three batteries, ½ hour of processing,
presto!
>
>This CS had hardly any taste, and I wondered. So I did my next batch
>doubling the time, and it tasted a bit stronger, but by far not as strong
>as the CS I had been making with Spa (although that always had splendid
>results).
>
>
>
>My "old" product would have a visible reaction: pouring grayish material
>from the anode, and little bubbles from the cathode. The result would be a
>grayish CS.
>
>My "newly made" CS is absolutely clear. The cathode shows hardly any
>reaction, nor does the anode. The taste is there, but is it okay?
>
>
>
>Resuming:
>
>1 My new water is less metallic in taste
>
>2 It is absolutely transparent
>
>3 I have to double the time (2 x ½ hours).
>
>
>
>Question: Is it that the PPM is even finer with cleaner water?
>
>Does that indicate that the nano particles are more easily
> absorb
RE: CS>Clear, clear water and a question
How would you use the voltmeter to monitor conductivity? I would like to
know such a process. Also, can you tell me how to hook up the ammeter in the
system so that I can monitor current? Thanks
Peter
-Original Message-
From: Ode Coyote [mailto:odecoy...@alltel.net]
Sent: Friday, November 10, 2006 4:24 AM
To: silver-list@eskimo.com
Subject: Re: CS>Clear, clear water and a question
You can't really use time alone to predict PPM.
Only slightly purer water can make a really big difference to get to the
same stopping point
Best bet is to get a conductivity meter
Next best , a PPM/TDS meter
Or even just an volt meter [multi meter ]
"Some" way to tell where you are in the process.
ode
At 11:03 AM 11/9/2006 -0400, you wrote:
>My respected and beloved C S Forum Friends!
>
>
>
>After four years of happily and a bit proudly making my own Colloidal
>Silver at home, and thriving by it for our health, giving it or selling it
>to clients and friends, truth came up a few days ago:
>
>The water I have been using (Spa water) was okay, but not the best in the
>world. The result was always a grayish mist, and it tasted strongly. Yet,
>I only rejected it if there would be a yellowish cloud on the bottom of
>the glass I make my water in. Then, I would use it for external things
>like plants, animals and wounds. For the remainder cleanliness has been
>our lead since day one.
>
>
>
>Now, an importer imported "le Bleu" ('the Blue' not that movie). It is
>absolutely clean (distilled) water, for drinking purposes. A
>friend-in-healthcare alerted me to it. Of late he is preparing his CS with
>this water, always being in search for the best. He told me that "le Bleu"
>is the best quality of water on our (limited island) market. Clean, and my
>C S water would come out transparent as any crystal cup.
>
>
>
>So I gave it a try the old way:
>
>Two silver rods in the water, three batteries, ½ hour of processing,
presto!
>
>This CS had hardly any taste, and I wondered. So I did my next batch
>doubling the time, and it tasted a bit stronger, but by far not as strong
>as the CS I had been making with Spa (although that always had splendid
>results).
>
>
>
>My "old" product would have a visible reaction: pouring grayish material
>from the anode, and little bubbles from the cathode. The result would be a
>grayish CS.
>
>My "newly made" CS is absolutely clear. The cathode shows hardly any
>reaction, nor does the anode. The taste is there, but is it okay?
>
>
>
>Resuming:
>
>1 My new water is less metallic in taste
>
>2 It is absolutely transparent
>
>3 I have to double the time (2 x ½ hours).
>
>
>
>Question: Is it that the PPM is even finer with cleaner water?
>
>Does that indicate that the nano particles are more easily
> absorbed?
>
>Is my cherished home-done product as good as I would want
> it to
>
> be?
>
>
>
>Thank you for your attention,
>
>
>
>As always: Faith with his turtle
>
>
>--
>The Silver List is a moderated forum for discussing Colloidal Silver.
>
>Instructions for unsubscribing are posted at: http://silverlist.org
>
>To post, address your message to: silver-list@eskimo.com
>
>Address Off-Topic messages to: silver-off-topic-l...@eskimo.com
>
>The Silver List and Off Topic List archives are currently down...
>
>List maintainer: Mike Devour
>
>
>
>
>--
>No virus found in this incoming message.
>Checked by AVG Free Edition.
>Version: 7.1.409 / Virus Database: 268.14.0/525 - Release Date: 11/9/2006
>
>
>
>
>--
>No virus found in this incoming message.
>Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
>Version: 7.1.409 / Virus Database: 268.14.0/525 - Release Date: 11/9/2006
--
No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
Version: 7.1.409 / Virus Database: 268.14.0/525 - Release Date: 11/9/2006
Re: CS>Clear, clear water and a question
IS PRILLS OK TO DRINK??? -- Original message -- From: "Ian Roe" > Hello: > > No! Prills actually dissolve a little in water and increase the total > dissolved solids. The best water is distilled. I use distilled at 1.2 ppm > TDS and it works well. > > Ian Roe > > Alkalinize your body for health. > http://www.roe.freelife.com WOW!! My Affiliate Site > Freelife, The Himalayan Goji Juice Company > - Original Message - > From: > To: > Sent: Thursday, November 09, 2006 10:34 AM > Subject: Re: CS>Clear, clear water and a question > > > >I HAVE ANOTHER QUESTION, IS PRILL WATER OK TO USE IN MAKING CS?? > > MARY > > -- Original message -- > > > -- > The Silver List is a moderated forum for discussing Colloidal Silver. > > Instructions for unsubscribing are posted at: http://silverlist.org > > To post, address your message to: silver-list@eskimo.com > > Address Off-Topic messages to: silver-off-topic-l...@eskimo.com > > The Silver List and Off Topic List archives are currently down... > > List maintainer: Mike Devour > >
Re: CS>Clear, clear water and a question
Hello: No! Prills actually dissolve a little in water and increase the total dissolved solids. The best water is distilled. I use distilled at 1.2 ppm TDS and it works well. Ian Roe Alkalinize your body for health. http://www.roe.freelife.com WOW!! My Affiliate Site Freelife, The Himalayan Goji Juice Company - Original Message - From: To: Sent: Thursday, November 09, 2006 10:34 AM Subject: Re: CS>Clear, clear water and a question I HAVE ANOTHER QUESTION, IS PRILL WATER OK TO USE IN MAKING CS?? MARY -- Original message -- -- The Silver List is a moderated forum for discussing Colloidal Silver. Instructions for unsubscribing are posted at: http://silverlist.org To post, address your message to: silver-list@eskimo.com Address Off-Topic messages to: silver-off-topic-l...@eskimo.com The Silver List and Off Topic List archives are currently down... List maintainer: Mike Devour
Re: CS>Clear, clear water and a question
You can't really use time alone to predict PPM.
Only slightly purer water can make a really big difference to get to the
same stopping point
Best bet is to get a conductivity meter
Next best , a PPM/TDS meter
Or even just an volt meter [multi meter ]
"Some" way to tell where you are in the process.
ode
At 11:03 AM 11/9/2006 -0400, you wrote:
My respected and beloved C S Forum Friends!
After four years of happily and a bit proudly making my own Colloidal
Silver at home, and thriving by it for our health, giving it or selling it
to clients and friends, truth came up a few days ago:
The water I have been using (Spa water) was okay, but not the best in the
world. The result was always a grayish mist, and it tasted strongly. Yet,
I only rejected it if there would be a yellowish cloud on the bottom of
the glass I make my water in. Then, I would use it for external things
like plants, animals and wounds. For the remainder cleanliness has been
our lead since day one.
Now, an importer imported "le Bleu" ('the Blue' not that movie). It is
absolutely clean (distilled) water, for drinking purposes. A
friend-in-healthcare alerted me to it. Of late he is preparing his CS with
this water, always being in search for the best. He told me that "le Bleu"
is the best quality of water on our (limited island) market. Clean, and my
C S water would come out transparent as any crystal cup.
So I gave it a try the old way:
Two silver rods in the water, three batteries, ½ hour of processing, presto!
This CS had hardly any taste, and I wondered. So I did my next batch
doubling the time, and it tasted a bit stronger, but by far not as strong
as the CS I had been making with Spa (although that always had splendid
results).
My "old" product would have a visible reaction: pouring grayish material
from the anode, and little bubbles from the cathode. The result would be a
grayish CS.
My "newly made" CS is absolutely clear. The cathode shows hardly any
reaction, nor does the anode. The taste is there, but is it okay?
Resuming:
1 My new water is less metallic in taste
2 It is absolutely transparent
3 I have to double the time (2 x ½ hours).
Question: Is it that the PPM is even finer with cleaner water?
Does that indicate that the nano particles are more easily
absorbed?
Is my cherished home-done product as good as I would want
it to
be?
Thank you for your attention,
As always: Faith with his turtle
--
The Silver List is a moderated forum for discussing Colloidal Silver.
Instructions for unsubscribing are posted at: http://silverlist.org
To post, address your message to: silver-list@eskimo.com
Address Off-Topic messages to: silver-off-topic-l...@eskimo.com
The Silver List and Off Topic List archives are currently down...
List maintainer: Mike Devour
--
No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.1.409 / Virus Database: 268.14.0/525 - Release Date: 11/9/2006
--
No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
Version: 7.1.409 / Virus Database: 268.14.0/525 - Release Date: 11/9/2006
--
No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
Version: 7.1.409 / Virus Database: 268.14.0/525 - Release Date: 11/9/2006
Re: CS>Clear, clear water and a question
I HAVE ANOTHER QUESTION, IS PRILL WATER OK TO USE IN MAKING CS?? MARY -- Original message -- From: "faithstfrancis" > > > > > My respected and beloved C S Forum Friends! > > > > After four years of happily and a bit proudly making my own Colloidal Silver > at home, and thriving by it for our health, giving it or selling it to > clients and friends, truth came up a few days ago: > > The water I have been using (Spa water) was okay, but not the best in the > world. The result was always a grayish mist, and it tasted strongly. Yet, I > only rejected it if there would be a yellowish cloud on the bottom of the > glass I make my water in. Then, I would use it for external things like > plants, animals and wounds. For the remainder cleanliness has been our lead > since day one. > > > > Now, an importer imported Âle Bleu (Âthe Blue  not that movie). It is > absolutely clean (distilled) water, for drinking purposes. A > friend-in-healthcare alerted me to it. Of late he is preparing his CS with > this water, always being in search for the best. He told me that Âle Bleu > is the best quality of water on our (limited island) market. Clean, and my C > S water would come out transparent as any crystal cup. > > > > So I gave it a try the old way: > > Two silver rods in the water, three batteries, ½ hour of processing, presto! > > This CS had hardly any taste, and I wondered. So I did my next batch > doubling the time, and it tasted a bit stronger, but by far not as strong as > the CS I had been making with Spa (although that always had splendid > results). > > > > My Âold product would have a visible reaction: pouring grayish material > from the anode, and little bubbles from the cathode. The result would be a > grayish CS. > > My Ânewly made CS is absolutely clear. The cathode shows hardly any > reaction, nor does the anode. The taste is there, but is it okay? > > > > Resuming: > > 1 My new water is less metallic in taste > > 2 It is absolutely transparent > > 3 I have to double the time (2 x ½ hours). > > > > Question: Is it that the PPM is even finer with cleaner water? > > Does that indicate that the nano particles are more easily > absorbed? > > Is my cherished home-done product as good as I would want it > to > > be? > > > > Thank you for your attention, > > > > As always: Faith with his turtle > > > -- > The Silver List is a moderated forum for discussing Colloidal Silver. > > Instructions for unsubscribing are posted at: http://silverlist.org > > To post, address your message to: silver-list@eskimo.com > > Address Off-Topic messages to: silver-off-topic-l...@eskimo.com > > The Silver List and Off Topic List archives are currently down... > > List maintainer: Mike Devour > >
RE: CS>Clear, clear water and a question
Dear Leonardo,
Your new distilled water has much less conductivity than the original Spa
water. Therefore, your brewing process will start out much slower and will
take correspondingly longer to reach the finish.
You will have to do some measurements and calculate the strength or do some
experiments in brewing time and observation, etc in order to determine the
relative strength of your product.
Your newly made CS may be quite weak...
For starters, assuming that you have no measurement equipment, I would suggest
that you let the brew continue until you have achieved a black tarnish
appearance on the anode and some degree of grey beard on the cathode.
Dan
-Original Message-
From: faithstfrancis [mailto:faithstfran...@interneeds.net]
Sent: Thursday, November 09, 2006 9:04 AM
To: silver list Colloidal Silver
Subject: CS>Clear, clear water and a question
My respected and beloved C S Forum Friends!
After four years of happily and a bit proudly making my own Colloidal Silver at
home, and thriving by it for our health, giving it or selling it to clients and
friends, truth came up a few days ago:
The water I have been using (Spa water) was okay, but not the best in the
world. The result was always a grayish mist, and it tasted strongly. Yet, I
only rejected it if there would be a yellowish cloud on the bottom of the glass
I make my water in. Then, I would use it for external things like plants,
animals and wounds. For the remainder cleanliness has been our lead since day
one.
Now, an importer imported "le Bleu" ('the Blue' - not that movie). It is
absolutely clean (distilled) water, for drinking purposes. A
friend-in-healthcare alerted me to it. Of late he is preparing his CS with this
water, always being in search for the best. He told me that "le Bleu"
is the best quality of water on our (limited island) market. Clean, and my C S
water would come out transparent as any crystal cup.
So I gave it a try the old way:
Two silver rods in the water, three batteries, ½ hour of processing, presto!
This CS had hardly any taste, and I wondered. So I did my next batch doubling
the time, and it tasted a bit stronger, but by far not as strong as the CS I
had been making with Spa (although that always had splendid results).
My "old" product would have a visible reaction: pouring grayish material from
the anode, and little bubbles from the cathode. The result would be a grayish
CS.
My "newly made" CS is absolutely clear. The cathode shows hardly any reaction,
nor does the anode. The taste is there, but is it okay?
Resuming:
1 My new water is less metallic in taste
2 It is absolutely transparent
3 I have to double the time (2 x ½ hours).
Question: Is it that the PPM is even finer with cleaner water?
Does that indicate that the nano particles are more easily
absorbed?
Is my cherished home-done product as good as I would want it
to be?
Thank you for your attention,
As always: Faith with his turtle
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