At 11:26 AM 11/10/2006 -0800, you wrote:
How would you use the voltmeter to monitor conductivity?
You would need an absolute current control and absolute electrode position
repeatability to do that.
Conductivity relates to current , distance and surface area. If max
controlled current and spacing remain the same, measuring surface area
exposure required to achieve the set current draw can be used to measure
conductivity. Each fractional inch of electrode exposure will correspond
to some conductivity value in microsiemens by withdrawing the electrode
from the water to just at the point where current starts to drop, then
measuring how much electrode is in the water.
You'll need a conductivity meter to relate the exposure to microsiemens
per fractional inch and get a number...which makes the exercise redundant
if you have the meter. But anyone else with exactly the same setup can use
the correlations...as.. a meter.
In my case, the LED on the generator is in series with the output and
brightness can determine where max current is when the electrodes are moved
up and down in the water.
Read range has limits.
If the LED never gets fully bright with full electrode exposure, the
water is 1 uS or under . If just touching the water makes the LED fully
bright, that's 20 uS and over. Read range is between 1 and 20 uS.
Accuracy is slightly better than a PPM/TDS meter but not as good as a
good conductivity meter.
I would like to
know such a process. Also, can you tell me how to hook up the ammeter in the
system so that I can monitor current? Thanks
Cut one electrode wire and put ammeter in series to monitor current.
Using constant voltage output, the current draw can be used to determine
conductivity.
Using constant current output, the voltage can be used to determine
conductivity.
...to some degree of accuracy...within some read range, because the actual
process interferes somewhat and the interference increases with PPM after
some point. [ at somewhere around 20 to 30 uS, even a "good" meter slews
off in comparing uS apples to PPM oranges]
Ode
Peter
-----Original Message-----
From: Ode Coyote [mailto:odecoy...@alltel.net]
Sent: Friday, November 10, 2006 4:24 AM
To: silver-list@eskimo.com
Subject: Re: CS>Clear, clear water and a question
You can't really use time alone to predict PPM.
Only slightly purer water can make a really big difference to get to the
same stopping point
Best bet is to get a conductivity meter
Next best , a PPM/TDS meter
Or even just an volt meter [multi meter ]
"Some" way to tell where you are in the process.
ode
At 11:03 AM 11/9/2006 -0400, you wrote:
>My respected and beloved C S Forum Friends!
>
>
>
>After four years of happily and a bit proudly making my own Colloidal
>Silver at home, and thriving by it for our health, giving it or selling it
>to clients and friends, truth came up a few days ago:
>
>The water I have been using (Spa water) was okay, but not the best in the
>world. The result was always a grayish mist, and it tasted strongly. Yet,
>I only rejected it if there would be a yellowish cloud on the bottom of
>the glass I make my water in. Then, I would use it for external things
>like plants, animals and wounds. For the remainder cleanliness has been
>our lead since day one.
>
>
>
>Now, an importer imported "le Bleu" ('the Blue' Â not that movie). It is
>absolutely clean (distilled) water, for drinking purposes. A
>friend-in-healthcare alerted me to it. Of late he is preparing his CS with
>this water, always being in search for the best. He told me that "le Bleu"
>is the best quality of water on our (limited island) market. Clean, and my
>C S water would come out transparent as any crystal cup.
>
>
>
>So I gave it a try the old way:
>
>Two silver rods in the water, three batteries, ½ hour of processing,
presto!
>
>This CS had hardly any taste, and I wondered. So I did my next batch
>doubling the time, and it tasted a bit stronger, but by far not as strong
>as the CS I had been making with Spa (although that always had splendid
>results).
>
>
>
>My "old" product would have a visible reaction: pouring grayish material
>from the anode, and little bubbles from the cathode. The result would be a
>grayish CS.
>
>My "newly made" CS is absolutely clear. The cathode shows hardly any
>reaction, nor does the anode. The taste is there, but is it okay?
>
>
>
>Resuming:
>
>1 My new water is less metallic in taste
>
>2 It is absolutely transparent
>
>3 I have to double the time (2 x ½ hours).
>
>
>
>Question: Is it that the PPM is even finer with cleaner water?
>
> Does that indicate that the nano particles are more easily
> absorbed?
>
> Is my cherished home-done product as good as I would want
> it to
>
> be?
>
>
>
>Thank you for your attention,
>
>
>
>As always: Faith with his turtle
>
>
>--
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