RE: [RCSE] Launch Height...
And how were they measuring the height, with a Picolario, some other vario? Endless Mountain Models http://www.scalesoaring.com email: [EMAIL PROTECTED] -Original Message- From: Eddie Smith [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Saturday, October 30, 2004 3:54 AM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [RCSE] Launch Height... Hi Guys ... Just a follow up on the height achieved on launch... Come of the guys were launching to 340+ metres last weekend. On a FAI winch with mono. RCSE-List facilities provided by Model Airplane News. Send subscribe and unsubscribe requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] Please note that subscribe and unsubscribe messages must be sent in text only format with MIME turned off.
Re: [RCSE] Looking for Darrell Zaballos
Albert E. Wedworth ( AL ) ERA Capshaw Realestate REALTOR- ASSOCIATE Cell 530-228-9445 Fax 530-343-1715 - Original Message - From: Marta Zavala [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Saturday, October 30, 2004 7:13 PM Subject: [RCSE] Looking for Darrell Zaballos Hi Darrell. Lost your email address. Have a question for you, could you please contact me off the list. Thanks, Walter Lynch RCSE-List facilities provided by Model Airplane News. Send subscribe and unsubscribe requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] Please note that subscribe and unsubscribe messages must be sent in text only format with MIME turned off. RCSE-List facilities provided by Model Airplane News. Send subscribe and unsubscribe requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] Please note that subscribe and unsubscribe messages must be sent in text only format with MIME turned off.
Re: [RCSE] Re: 'Worms'
I noticed that he is not using breather on the top of the wing. Phil, I believe you are using breather top and bottom. Could this be the cause? I used breather top and bottom. Phil Barnes wrote: -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] The breather is in contact with the lower foam bed. The core and mylars lie in the lower bed and so are not in contact with any previously used breather. As you know from my video, I place the cores in the mylars, then the mylars go inside a release film/breather envelope, this then goes in the bag. The beds are outside the bag. I can't tell for sure from your post, but it sounds as if you might be putting the beds inside the bag or perhaps are not using the top bed at all. If you are not using the top bed and are placing weights directly on top of the vac bag, this could cause dents to appear in the wing. Many years ago I tried putting bricks directly on top of the vac bag without using the top foam bed. The weight of the brick and the uneven surface of the brick caused dents in the top of the wings. If you continue to have mysterious problems then I would recommend that you follow the procedures in the video as closely as you can. If that produces good results then you can start changing one thing at a time if you want to go back to your own methods. It sounds as if you are doing quite a few things differently from my methods. One or more of those things are producing unexpected and unwanted results. You likely are encountering a problem which I have never encountered since I have never used those methods. I never get any of these defects in glassed balsa parts, even with very light, soft balsa. This makes me think about something that melts the foam. I do know that unmixed epoxy (or more likely, the hardener) will melt foam. Could there be a chance that you are not mixing the epoxy thoroughly? Little lines of unmixed epoxy perhaps melt little trenches in the foam core. These defects sometimes appear just over the foam, sometimes over the foam and the uni. Since the glass surface in the 'dent' is smooth, well wet-out and well bonded to the core, it's getting some consolidation pressure in the bag. That's why I suspect trapped air or volatiles of some sort. I'm not sure I totally understand this but this does not sound like melted foam is the problem. It does sound like trapped air although I have never personally experienced a trapped air problem other than the lifted paint problem that I described earlier. Once again I would suggest following my procedures from the video more closely. I only use a squeegee for layups on layups that only use glass. I use a foam roller to spread epoxy on all carbon and Kevlar layups. Perhaps I'm just crushing the foam with too much pressure for 150? Too much vacuum on softer foams can cause the entire core to get compressed a few thousandths of an inch. It can also cause tips or leading edges to get crushed in odd ways when the mylar extends past the foam and cannot conform readily to the curves. There is no reason suspect excess vacuum as a cause for thin lines or depressions in the center areas of the core. Phil RCSE-List facilities provided by Model Airplane News. Send subscribe and unsubscribe requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] Please note that subscribe and unsubscribe messages must be sent in text only format with MIME turned off. -- Jeff Steifel RCSE-List facilities provided by Model Airplane News. Send subscribe and unsubscribe requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] Please note that subscribe and unsubscribe messages must be sent in text only format with MIME turned off.
[RCSE] Wing servo mounting
I'm sure this has been covered before but I've been having fits trying to come up with the best method for securing servos in a Phil Barnes foam core wing. I have used a glue known as PFM, I think it also is known as shoe goo. This adhesive, although strong and secure, dimples the top surface of the wing. Not sure if its attacking the foam, but it certainly distorts the top surface. Most recently on my new ship I have used silicone, this at first seemed to work well, but it didn't hold up and my flap servos are now floating around. Makes for an interesting launch when the flaps are both in different positions! On my last Mantis I used the PFM and the servos been secure, I've just lived with the depressions in the top surface. I haven't blocked in around the servo, perhaps that will be my first next move. If any of you have had good repeatable success, or good adhesive suggestions I would appreciate hearing about it. I know there's a lot of servos installed out there and there must be a better way. Thanks, John Hayes [EMAIL PROTECTED] RCSE-List facilities provided by Model Airplane News. Send subscribe and unsubscribe requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] Please note that subscribe and unsubscribe messages must be sent in text only format with MIME turned off.
Re: [RCSE] Wing servo mounting
The key to using Goop or Shoe Goo, PFM - same stuff. In fact the Household version of Goop is the least expensive has the same chemical make-up of the Goop specific-use titles, is to not over-do it. Use only enough so that when you push to servo down, it does not ooze out around the servo case perimeter (this last bit is important). As Goop sets up, it shrinks ~2-4%. If you leave Goop around the parimeter of the servo case it will set up and distort the flying surface. Creating a fillet is the worst thing to do. No Goop present in this area...no distortion. Another thing to ensure the ultimate rigidity of the servo versus the wing/control surface, when installing the covers also apply a small dap of Goop between it and the servo case. I have yet to discover another means of securing servos in a composite wings, that either exceeds this rigidity, has lighter mass, and is still removable. In fact I run a thin bead on the servo covers to secure them to the wing surface, gets rid of the ugly tape normally used (ug). Earlier this spring this exact setup exceeded 420KmH. Tip: you can seal a foam servo well with epoxy, and then use Goop to secure your favorite servos without fear of melting the foam... John Hayes wrote: I'm sure this has been covered before but I've been having fits trying to come up with the best method for securing servos in a Phil Barnes foam core wing. I have used a glue known as PFM, I think it also is known as shoe goo. This adhesive, although strong and secure, dimples the top surface of the wing. Not sure if its attacking the foam, but it certainly distorts the top surface. Most recently on my new ship I have used silicone, this at first seemed to work well, but it didn't hold up and my flap servos are now floating around. Makes for an interesting launch when the flaps are both in different positions! On my last Mantis I used the PFM and the servos been secure, I've just lived with the depressions in the top surface. I haven't blocked in around the servo, perhaps that will be my first next move. If any of you have had good repeatable success, or good adhesive suggestions I would appreciate hearing about it. I know there's a lot of servos installed out there and there must be a better way. Thanks, John Hayes [EMAIL PROTECTED] RCSE-List facilities provided by Model Airplane News. Send subscribe and unsubscribe requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] Please note that subscribe and unsubscribe messages must be sent in text only format with MIME turned off. -- Simon Van Leeuwen RADIUS SYSTEMS PnP SYSTEMS - The E-Harness of Choice Cogito Ergo Zooom RCSE-List facilities provided by Model Airplane News. Send subscribe and unsubscribe requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] Please note that subscribe and unsubscribe messages must be sent in text only format with MIME turned off.
Re: [RCSE] Wing servo mounting
With the advent of Mark Drela's cantilever method mounting of servos, other methods that involve adhering them to the skin or adhering commercial servo mounts to the skin, seem crude to me. Details on Marks's method are given in the Genie pages, located at http://genie.rchomepage.com/, starting at page 25 in File 3. Mark developed this method for use with the Rotary Driver System, and since you are dealing with a foam core wing, you might just as well consider the RDS as detailed in the same pages also following page 25. There is no need to put up with distorted skins where stuff is attached and no need to have anything hanging out of the wing at all. - Original Message - From: John Hayes [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: RCSE [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Sunday, October 31, 2004 2:18 PM Subject: [RCSE] Wing servo mounting I'm sure this has been covered before but I've been having fits trying to come up with the best method for securing servos in a Phil Barnes foam core wing. I have used a glue known as PFM, I think it also is known as shoe goo. This adhesive, although strong and secure, dimples the top surface of the wing. Not sure if its attacking the foam, but it certainly distorts the top surface. Most recently on my new ship I have used silicone, this at first seemed to work well, but it didn't hold up and my flap servos are now floating around. Makes for an interesting launch when the flaps are both in different positions! On my last Mantis I used the PFM and the servos been secure, I've just lived with the depressions in the top surface. I haven't blocked in around the servo, perhaps that will be my first next move. If any of you have had good repeatable success, or good adhesive suggestions I would appreciate hearing about it. I know there's a lot of servos installed out there and there must be a better way. Thanks, John Hayes [EMAIL PROTECTED] RCSE-List facilities provided by Model Airplane News. Send subscribe and unsubscribe requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] Please note that subscribe and unsubscribe messages must be sent in text only format with MIME turned off. RCSE-List facilities provided by Model Airplane News. Send subscribe and unsubscribe requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] Please note that subscribe and unsubscribe messages must be sent in text only format with MIME turned off.
[RCSE] Wing Servos
I have used a glue known as PFM, I think it also is known as shoe goo. This adhesive, although strong and secure, dimples the top surface of the wing. Not sure if its attacking the foam, but it certainly distorts the top surface Two ideas that worked reasonably well: 1) Goop has great grab to anything but will dimple the foam - probably because it's captured under the servo and the VOCs hang around long enough to hit the foam a bit. Epoxy a thin piece of ply in the bottom of the servo well and then Goop to that (sparingly as in the previous post), or (better approach) 2) Switch to Gorilla Glue. It will swell a bit and won't attack the foam. The servo will be well seated once it's set. Seems to have a good grab to most plastic surfaces. Once set (~ 4 hr.), the excess that swells out can be trimmed with a single edge razor or easily milled down with a Dremel (thanks to Bob Peck for pointing this one out). I'd suggest putting a band of masking tape around the servo before using the adhesive. That way the servo can be extracted from the tape without taking a hunk of foam out of the wing. - Dave R RCSE-List facilities provided by Model Airplane News. Send subscribe and unsubscribe requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] Please note that subscribe and unsubscribe messages must be sent in text only format with MIME turned off.
Re: [RCSE] Wing servo mounting
you're making it way to complicated. the foam in Phil's wings is plenty dense to provide lateral and front/rear containment for a servo. it works very well to route a cavity that puts the servo top flush with the wing bottom with the servo being a VERY snug fit in the cavity. make enough room for the servo arm to move where it needs to. all that is needed to retain the servo in the cavity is a cover.. usually packing tape or vinyl servo covers. this really is pretty much the standard method for installing servos in foam wings.. At 05:18 PM 10/31/2004, you wrote: Isnip Thanks, John Hayes [EMAIL PROTECTED] RCSE-List facilities provided by Model Airplane News. Send subscribe and unsubscribe requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] Please note that subscribe and unsubscribe messages must be sent in text only format with MIME turned off.
[RCSE] Lots of First for me this year! Hotlanta was an F3B ball today
Big year of fun for me this season! For my first time seeing F3J, I got tows from the our American team, the Norwegians and Turks at the Worlds in Calgary. Got to fly a contest in Australia, finished off LSF2 and shortly 3..and today got to do some F3J launches and speed runs! Flew my Pike fully ballasted and got my runs down to around 14 seconds (pretty sure that was my best run, but Randy forgot to start the watch:-). Got to see what happens on tow when you hold too much elevator at the top too! Very exciting and violent, should have entered the course off that snap cuz I'm pretty sure my Pike has never gone that fast or will again if I can help it! When so fast my rudder hummed! Tim and Randy had three winches set up, loaded with line and took me up for 5 attempts and we spent quite a bit of salsa and beer time discussing the finer points. Two days of great air and warm temps, and of course the manditory mexican resturant to share stories. If you guys have not had a chance to fly with the Atlanta group, I have to tell you, its trick and treat. AJ, the Toms, Lou, well all the guys there are about soaring. Its pretty rare that chairs are filled when you come to the field down here. Wish you could have been here too! Gordy Happy Holloween...for me :-)
Re: [RCSE] Lots of First for me this year! Hotlanta was an F3B ball today
Gordy, I know flyin with the Hotlanta boys is more fun than most have ever had, but we had a nice day in STL. A few guys showed up to the farm and flew, got Kieth and his Magic, ya one of the Waco Magics, trouble shot when the slide on V-tail (a problem waiting to happen and did) had slid just enough to require all the up trim to fly. So, we got that straight, and then the high light of the day, was Mark Nankavilputting the first flight on an electric ducted fan F9F Panther, it is the straight wing version. After some pics and testing, with the use of a launch ramp and catapult, the Panther ripped into the sky. I was the release mechanism, and then scrabled to Mark's camera and started to try an catch up with this jet as it went by so as to get some flyin pics for a review Mark is doing. I am guessing that it was easily doing 70-80 mph and there was never any doubt that it was going to get the job done.Great day, great fun. Probably is not going to last to much longer, but enjoy it while we can. Marc
Re: [RCSE] Lots of First for me this year! Hotlanta was an F3B ball today
Gordy, surely you must be afairly experienced F3Ber. I mean 14 seconds, thats damn fast, especially for a newbie, which by your timeI assume you are not-and w/ a Pike Superior to boot! Good flyin man!! Walter -Original Message-From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [EMAIL PROTECTED]To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [EMAIL PROTECTED]Date: Sunday, October 31, 2004 4:28 PMSubject: [RCSE] "Lots of First for me this year! Hotlanta was an F3B ball today" Big year of fun for me this season! For my first time seeing F3J, I got tows from the our American team, the Norwegians and Turks at the Worlds in Calgary. Got to fly a contest in Australia, finished off LSF2 and shortly 3..and today got to do some F3J launches and speed runs! Flew my Pike fully ballasted and got my runs down to around 14 seconds (pretty sure that was my best run, but Randy forgot to start the watch:-). Got to see what happens on tow when you hold too much elevator at the top too! Very exciting and violent, should have entered the course off that snap cuz I'm pretty sure my Pike has never gone that fast or will again if I can help it! When so fast my rudder hummed! Tim and Randy had three winches set up, loaded with line and took me up for 5 attempts and we spent quite a bit of salsa and beer time discussing the finer points. Two days of great air and warm temps, and of course the manditory mexican resturant to share stories. If you guys have not had a chance to fly with the Atlanta group, I have to tell you, its trick and treat. AJ, the Toms, Lou, well all the guys there are about soaring. Its pretty rare that chairs are filled when you come to the field down here. Wish you could have been here too! Gordy Happy Holloween...for me :-)
[RCSE] pictures and stories from the ECHLGF
www.louisvillesoaring.org is a little slanted toward the Louisville trio that went to Oleg's competition. You can check out the official site too at http://olgol.com/contest/ Bruce Davidson Louisville, KY
Re: [RCSE] Lots of First for me this year! Hotlanta was an F3B ball today
Well, no offense to Gordy, but when your Base B turn is signaled by the guy at Base A saying yeah, that's about it, ROLL, TURN!, we don't worry about notifying FAI. :) -charles On Sun, 31 Oct 2004, Marta Zavala wrote: Gordy, surely you must be a fairly experienced F3Ber. I mean 14 seconds, thats damn fast, especially for a newbie, which by your time I assume you are not- and w/ a Pike Superior to boot! Good flyin man!! Walter -Original Message- RCSE-List facilities provided by Model Airplane News. Send subscribe and unsubscribe requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] Please note that subscribe and unsubscribe messages must be sent in text only format with MIME turned off.
Re: [RCSE] Wing Servos
Thanks everyone for your answers, I will remount my servos and I'm sure they will be secure. John Hayes - Original Message - From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Sunday, October 31, 2004 6:15 PM Subject: [RCSE] Wing Servos I have used a glue known as PFM, I think it also is known as shoe goo. This adhesive, although strong and secure, dimples the top surface of the wing. Not sure if its attacking the foam, but it certainly distorts the top surface Two ideas that worked reasonably well: 1) Goop has great grab to anything but will dimple the foam - probably because it's captured under the servo and the VOCs hang around long enough to hit the foam a bit. Epoxy a thin piece of ply in the bottom of the servo well and then Goop to that (sparingly as in the previous post), or (better approach) 2) Switch to Gorilla Glue. It will swell a bit and won't attack the foam. The servo will be well seated once it's set. Seems to have a good grab to most plastic surfaces. Once set (~ 4 hr.), the excess that swells out can be trimmed with a single edge razor or easily milled down with a Dremel (thanks to Bob Peck for pointing this one out). I'd suggest putting a band of masking tape around the servo before using the adhesive. That way the servo can be extracted from the tape without taking a hunk of foam out of the wing. - Dave R RCSE-List facilities provided by Model Airplane News. Send subscribe and unsubscribe requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] Please note that subscribe and unsubscribe messages must be sent in text only format with MIME turned off. RCSE-List facilities provided by Model Airplane News. Send subscribe and unsubscribe requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] Please note that subscribe and unsubscribe messages must be sent in text only format with MIME turned off.
[RCSE] Recommended inexpensive 12v battery charger
I am putting together my first winch. I'll be using a Walmart standard battery to power it and need to purchase a charger. There are all kinds of lead-acid battery chargers at Walmart. Unfortunately my regular fast charger for my NiCads won't handle lead-acid, so I need to buy yet another piece of equipment! :) Are there things I should look for when looking at the various chargers? I think the common brand is Schumacher and there are usually 3 - 5 different models on the shelf. I was looking to spend $50 or so. Thanks in advance! Stuart RCSE-List facilities provided by Model Airplane News. Send subscribe and unsubscribe requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] Please note that subscribe and unsubscribe messages must be sent in text only format with MIME turned off.
Re: [RCSE] Recommended inexpensive 12v battery charger
Be sure to bye the Wal-Mart deep cycle marine battery not the standard car or truck battery. I have been using their largest, I believe it's the 29 series (210 reserve amps), for 5 years. They have a smaller 24 series that is 110 amps. The charger is the EverStart for Boating/RV. It is a Fully Automatic/Manual Battery charger and rated at 10 amps. It says it's for 12 volt Marine/Deep cycle batteries but it works well on any battery and is stable enough to be used as a 12 volt DC power supply. Maurice - Original Message - From: Stuart A. Hall [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Sunday, October 31, 2004 6:37 PM Subject: [RCSE] Recommended inexpensive 12v battery charger I am putting together my first winch. I'll be using a Walmart standard battery to power it and need to purchase a charger. There are all kinds of lead-acid battery chargers at Walmart. Unfortunately my regular fast charger for my NiCads won't handle lead-acid, so I need to buy yet another piece of equipment! :) Are there things I should look for when looking at the various chargers? I think the common brand is Schumacher and there are usually 3 - 5 different models on the shelf. I was looking to spend $50 or so. Thanks in advance! Stuart RCSE-List facilities provided by Model Airplane News. Send subscribe and unsubscribe requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] Please note that subscribe and unsubscribe messages must be sent in text only format with MIME turned off. RCSE-List facilities provided by Model Airplane News. Send subscribe and unsubscribe requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] Please note that subscribe and unsubscribe messages must be sent in text only format with MIME turned off.
[RCSE] Carbon Empannage Spars - Inspection
Over the weekend I experienced a failure during a normal landing on a moldie, essentially the high-modulus 0.187 carbon rod failed at the intersection between the stabilator root and vertical fin pivot point. Post inspection revealed a number of microscopic stress risers at various locations near the center of the rod. Apparently the rod centers slightly differently each time, as the rod can slide slightly further into one stab or the other. It may behoove folks to look closely at their various CF rods, and replace those that exhibit deformations. You may require a decent magnifying apparatus to effectively discover a potential failure... -- Simon Van Leeuwen RADIUS SYSTEMS PnP SYSTEMS - The E-Harness of Choice Cogito Ergo Zooom RCSE-List facilities provided by Model Airplane News. Send subscribe and unsubscribe requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] Please note that subscribe and unsubscribe messages must be sent in text only format with MIME turned off.
