[RCSE] Epoxied servo techniques
That is something I know I would be very interested in. Based on the comments here there seem to be a huge variance in techniques when going for the glue-in approach. I have only seen two variations where the servo is glued in using a bed of epoxy and micro balloons and is either bare or wrapped in masking tape. But some people are describing servos that pop out of the epoxy easily and others are describing needing to grind the servos out. Can those who have had really good luck with gluing there servos in provide some insights? Thanks for all the information, Corey On 3/2/06, Bill Swingle [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: The ideas claiming a reasonably easy removal are true. However a disclaimer is needed. A glue joint can be done well or poorly. Those advocating epoxy are actually advocating particular methods that will achieve glue joints which are marginal (for lack of a better word). Done right they work great and remove easily. Done wrong and they are unremovable. I suggest that we spend more effort on the methods being used to acheive these perfectly marginal joints. Bill (just did one wrong) Swingle Janesville, CA RCSE-List facilities provided by Model Airplane News. Send subscribe and unsubscribe requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] Please note that subscribe and unsubscribe messages must be sent in text only format with MIME turned off. Email sent from web based email such as Hotmail and AOL are generally NOT in text format RCSE-List facilities provided by Model Airplane News. Send subscribe and unsubscribe requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] Please note that subscribe and unsubscribe messages must be sent in text only format with MIME turned off. Email sent from web based email such as Hotmail and AOL are generally NOT in text format
RE: [RCSE] Epoxied servo techniques
This is easy, do a test. Find an old servo with a clean case. Mix up some 5 minute and micro about like mayonnaise. Put about a quarter size blob on the servo case side and squish it to a piece of smooth clean 1/4 plywood and you want to push down so the servo contacts the wing but not forces the wing flat in one area, push down so the epoxy just rolls out all sides about 1/16. If you put too much then you get more roll out. So push down and get the squeeze out and then just hold light pressure until it cures. Now about 2 hours later try and pull it out. Now sand the servo case with 150 grit, clean and repeat the test. The un-sanded servo will hold well for most guys and easily come out in a hard landing or when you want it to. The sanded servo will stay put in a hard landing but still come out when you want it to but will take a little more force. Also add some 8oz glass or carbon to the wing skin to stiffen the servo area if it has not been already done for you before you epoxy in servos. Tom Copp Composite Specialties www.f3x.com 949-645-7032 -Original Message- From: Corey Groves [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Thursday, March 02, 2006 8:14 AM To: Soaring@airage.com Subject: [RCSE] Epoxied servo techniques That is something I know I would be very interested in. Based on the comments here there seem to be a huge variance in techniques when going for the glue-in approach. I have only seen two variations where the servo is glued in using a bed of epoxy and micro balloons and is either bare or wrapped in masking tape. But some people are describing servos that pop out of the epoxy easily and others are describing needing to grind the servos out. Can those who have had really good luck with gluing there servos in provide some insights? Thanks for all the information, Corey RCSE-List facilities provided by Model Airplane News. Send subscribe and unsubscribe requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] Please note that subscribe and unsubscribe messages must be sent in text only format with MIME turned off. Email sent from web based email such as Hotmail and AOL are generally NOT in text format
RE: [RCSE] Epoxied servo techniques
I use Goop. A dab about the size of a small pea on the four corners, then press into place. Actually I set the servo linkages up beforehand (arm angle, pushrod length etc - totally complete), then when it comes time to mount the servos I plug in a RX and turn the system on. With the servos in the neutral position I apply the goop and roll the servo into the wing and press it down. unplug the RX and let it dry. The advantage of Goop is that at the microscopic level it it attaches itself to the servo case's plastic much better than epoxy, and the glue joints will not fail as catastrophically (with epoxy, an event that disloges the servo - does so completely). This process, along with also adhering to the inner surface of the servo cover, makes for zero servo movement. Don't use too much Goop, getting the servo out will be more difficult than epoxy, and (for the ashetically anal) the splooge out the sides shrinks such that it may create an outline of the servo on the upper surface. Keep in mind that the reason epoxy works at all is not because it has adhered to the servo case, but because it has created surface tension at the microscopic level. A hard landing can disrupt this and the servo is now floating around inside the servo bay. Unless you notice, chances are you would launch again. Goop elliminates this possibility. Quoting Tom Copp [EMAIL PROTECTED]: This is easy, do a test. Find an old servo with a clean case. Mix up some 5 minute and micro about like mayonnaise. Put about a quarter size blob on the servo case side and squish it to a piece of smooth clean 1/4 plywood and you want to push down so the servo contacts the wing but not forces the wing flat in one area, push down so the epoxy just rolls out all sides about 1/16. If you put too much then you get more roll out. So push down and get the squeeze out and then just hold light pressure until it cures. Now about 2 hours later try and pull it out. Now sand the servo case with 150 grit, clean and repeat the test. The un-sanded servo will hold well for most guys and easily come out in a hard landing or when you want it to. The sanded servo will stay put in a hard landing but still come out when you want it to but will take a little more force. Also add some 8oz glass or carbon to the wing skin to stiffen the servo area if it has not been already done for you before you epoxy in servos. Tom Copp Composite Specialties www.f3x.com 949-645-7032 -Original Message- From: Corey Groves [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Thursday, March 02, 2006 8:14 AM To: Soaring@airage.com Subject: [RCSE] Epoxied servo techniques That is something I know I would be very interested in. Based on the comments here there seem to be a huge variance in techniques when going for the glue-in approach. I have only seen two variations where the servo is glued in using a bed of epoxy and micro balloons and is either bare or wrapped in masking tape. But some people are describing servos that pop out of the epoxy easily and others are describing needing to grind the servos out. Can those who have had really good luck with gluing there servos in provide some insights? Thanks for all the information, Corey RCSE-List facilities provided by Model Airplane News. Send subscribe and unsubscribe requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] Please note that subscribe and unsubscribe messages must be sent in text only format with MIME turned off. Email sent from web based email such as Hotmail and AOL are generally NOT in text format Simon Van Leeuwen PnP Systems - The E-Harness of Choice Radius Systems Cogito Ergo Zoom RCSE-List facilities provided by Model Airplane News. Send subscribe and unsubscribe requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] Please note that subscribe and unsubscribe messages must be sent in text only format with MIME turned off. Email sent from web based email such as Hotmail and AOL are generally NOT in text format
Re: [RCSE] Epoxied servo techniques
I made a plastic plug that matched the Airtronics servos I used to use. Greased the plug and set it into a thick mess of epoxy and microbaloons. Wait for the epoxy to cure, yank the plug, pop in the servo using wood shavings to insure immobility. Worked great. If you do this, don't forget to allow room for the servo arm and a wire chase. RCSE-List facilities provided by Model Airplane News. Send subscribe and unsubscribe requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] Please note that subscribe and unsubscribe messages must be sent in text only format with MIME turned off. Email sent from web based email such as Hotmail and AOL are generally NOT in text format
Re: [RCSE] Epoxied servo techniques
Don't use goop if you are a contest flier. If you want to replace a servo or gear on field epoxy is the way to go. Goop doesn't set for hours epoxy provides a bed for the servo to sit in, then if you need to pop it out on the field it is easy. Then a dab of thick ca will bond it right back in there instantly. With goop,go get another plane... go home and the next day it will be ok... Seriously guys, Daryl gave you guys a tried and trusted method of doing the epoxy... it works... I received a plane with taped in servos and they didn't come out easily. I also received a plane with shrink wrap that too didn't come out easily. If you want a strong bond but removable just epoxy it in, or add the weight and go with servo frames... But please lets keep goop out of the contest goers planes. A guy did that and we couldn't get a decent bond quickly even using CA the goop kept the CA from bonding... [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I use Goop. A dab about the size of a small pea on the four corners, then press into place. Actually I set the servo linkages up beforehand (arm angle, pushrod length etc - totally complete), then when it comes time to mount the servos I plug in a RX and turn the system on. With the servos in the neutral position I apply the goop and roll the servo into the wing and press it down. unplug the RX and let it dry. The advantage of Goop is that at the microscopic level it it attaches itself to the servo case's plastic much better than epoxy, and the glue joints will not fail as catastrophically (with epoxy, an event that disloges the servo - does so completely). This process, along with also adhering to the inner surface of the servo cover, makes for zero servo movement. Don't use too much Goop, getting the servo out will be more difficult than epoxy, and (for the ashetically anal) the splooge out the sides shrinks such that it may create an outline of the servo on the upper surface. Keep in mind that the reason epoxy works at all is not because it has adhered to the servo case, but because it has created surface tension at the microscopic level. A hard landing can disrupt this and the servo is now floating around inside the servo bay. Unless you notice, chances are you would launch again. Goop elliminates this possibility. Quoting Tom Copp [EMAIL PROTECTED]: This is easy, do a test. Find an old servo with a clean case. Mix up some 5 minute and micro about like mayonnaise. Put about a quarter size blob on the servo case side and squish it to a piece of smooth clean 1/4 plywood and you want to push down so the servo contacts the wing but not forces the wing flat in one area, push down so the epoxy just rolls out all sides about 1/16. If you put too much then you get more roll out. So push down and get the squeeze out and then just hold light pressure until it cures. Now about 2 hours later try and pull it out. Now sand the servo case with 150 grit, clean and repeat the test. The un-sanded servo will hold well for most guys and easily come out in a hard landing or when you want it to. The sanded servo will stay put in a hard landing but still come out when you want it to but will take a little more force. Also add some 8oz glass or carbon to the wing skin to stiffen the servo area if it has not been already done for you before you epoxy in servos. Tom Copp Composite Specialties www.f3x.com 949-645-7032 -Original Message- From: Corey Groves [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Thursday, March 02, 2006 8:14 AM To: Soaring@airage.com Subject: [RCSE] Epoxied servo techniques That is something I know I would be very interested in. Based on the comments here there seem to be a huge variance in techniques when going for the glue-in approach. I have only seen two variations where the servo is glued in using a bed of epoxy and micro balloons and is either bare or wrapped in masking tape. But some people are describing servos that pop out of the epoxy easily and others are describing needing to grind the servos out. Can those who have had really good luck with gluing there servos in provide some insights? Thanks for all the information, Corey RCSE-List facilities provided by Model Airplane News. Send subscribe and unsubscribe requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] Please note that subscribe and unsubscribe messages must be sent in text only format with MIME turned off. Email sent from web based email such as Hotmail and AOL are generally NOT in text format Simon Van Leeuwen PnP Systems - The E-Harness of Choice Radius Systems Cogito Ergo Zoom RCSE-List facilities provided by Model Airplane News. Send subscribe and unsubscribe requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] Please note that subscribe and unsubscribe messages must be sent in text only format with MIME turned off. Email sent from web based email such as Hotmail and AOL are generally NOT in text format -- Jeff Steifel RCSE-List facilities provided by Model Airplane News. Send
Re: [RCSE] Epoxied servo techniques
Hey, how about frames? Screws hold tightly as soon as they are driven in and come out easily with a simple hand tool. I keep seeing references to ADDING WEIGHT by using frames but NO NUMBERS. How much weight does it add? Does it add weight at all? Epoxy adds weight and that is dependent on how much epoxy you put in. When I built a Long-EZ (full size) the mantra was get the epoxy out! I seriously doubt that properly installed frames are heavier than sploodging the servos in with epoxy/microballoons. I think it is really a matter of pilot/builder preference and there is NO performance difference AT ALL. I have glued servos in and I have used frames and I really prefer frames especially now that I can buy them instead of having to make my own every time. Quick question, how many people here would epoxy their steering wheel in their car and go drive on the freeway? michael On 3/2/06, Jeff Steifel [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Don't use goop if you are a contest flier. If you want to replace a servo or gear on field epoxy is the way to go. too didn't come out easily. If you want a strong bond but removable just epoxy it in, or add the weight and go with servo frames... RCSE-List facilities provided by Model Airplane News. Send subscribe and unsubscribe requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] Please note that subscribe and unsubscribe messages must be sent in text only format with MIME turned off. Email sent from web based email such as Hotmail and AOL are generally NOT in text format
Re: [RCSE] Epoxied servo techniques
Are you talking LA or NY? Quick question, how many people here would epoxy their steering wheel in their car and go drive on the freeway? michael RCSE-List facilities provided by Model Airplane News. Send subscribe and unsubscribe requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] Please note that subscribe and unsubscribe messages must be sent in text only format with MIME turned off. Email sent from web based email such as Hotmail and AOL are generally NOT in text format
Re: [RCSE] Epoxied servo techniques
There are advantages and disadvantages to both. Goop/frames/epoxy all work. We contribute the info, it's up to the reader to decide what he/she prefers. The weight thing is a lost leader here, no one flying an aircraft with any mounting system would ever 4 times outa five feel/observe the difference... Quoting Michael Neverdosky [EMAIL PROTECTED]: Hey, how about frames? Screws hold tightly as soon as they are driven in and come out easily with a simple hand tool. I keep seeing references to ADDING WEIGHT by using frames but NO NUMBERS. How much weight does it add? Does it add weight at all? Epoxy adds weight and that is dependent on how much epoxy you put in. When I built a Long-EZ (full size) the mantra was get the epoxy out! I seriously doubt that properly installed frames are heavier than sploodging the servos in with epoxy/microballoons. I think it is really a matter of pilot/builder preference and there is NO performance difference AT ALL. I have glued servos in and I have used frames and I really prefer frames especially now that I can buy them instead of having to make my own every time. Quick question, how many people here would epoxy their steering wheel in their car and go drive on the freeway? michael On 3/2/06, Jeff Steifel [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Don't use goop if you are a contest flier. If you want to replace a servo or gear on field epoxy is the way to go. too didn't come out easily. If you want a strong bond but removable just epoxy it in, or add the weight and go with servo frames... RCSE-List facilities provided by Model Airplane News. Send subscribe and unsubscribe requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] Please note that subscribe and unsubscribe messages must be sent in text only format with MIME turned off. Email sent from web based email such as Hotmail and AOL are generally NOT in text format Simon Van Leeuwen PnP Systems - The E-Harness of Choice Radius Systems Cogito Ergo Zoom RCSE-List facilities provided by Model Airplane News. Send subscribe and unsubscribe requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] Please note that subscribe and unsubscribe messages must be sent in text only format with MIME turned off. Email sent from web based email such as Hotmail and AOL are generally NOT in text format
Re: [RCSE] Epoxied servo techniques
They use duct tape to hold steering wheels on in West Virginia Are you talking LA or NY? Quick question, how many people here would epoxy their steering wheel in their car and go drive on the freeway? michael RCSE-List facilities provided by Model Airplane News. Send subscribe and unsubscribe requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] Please note that subscribe and unsubscribe messages must be sent in text only format with MIME turned off. Email sent from web based email such as Hotmail and AOL are generally NOT in text format RCSE-List facilities provided by Model Airplane News. Send subscribe and unsubscribe requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] Please note that subscribe and unsubscribe messages must be sent in text only format with MIME turned off. Email sent from web based email such as Hotmail and AOL are generally NOT in text format
Re: [RCSE] Epoxied servo techniques
Maybe you could CA a piece of relatively hard balsa, say about 1/4X servo cased height to both ends of servo. Wax bottom of servo only then pot the whole shabang into the wing with 5min and microballons. Maybe it would hold the servo pretty good yet youd still be able to rip that puppy out if needed? Beats me. Walter - Original Message - From: Corey Groves [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Soaring@airage.com Sent: Thursday, March 02, 2006 8:13 AM Subject: [RCSE] Epoxied servo techniques That is something I know I would be very interested in. Based on the comments here there seem to be a huge variance in techniques when going for the glue-in approach. I have only seen two variations where the servo is glued in using a bed of epoxy and micro balloons and is either bare or wrapped in masking tape. But some people are describing servos that pop out of the epoxy easily and others are describing needing to grind the servos out. Can those who have had really good luck with gluing there servos in provide some insights? Thanks for all the information, Corey On 3/2/06, Bill Swingle [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: The ideas claiming a reasonably easy removal are true. However a disclaimer is needed. A glue joint can be done well or poorly. Those advocating epoxy are actually advocating particular methods that will achieve glue joints which are marginal (for lack of a better word). Done right they work great and remove easily. Done wrong and they are unremovable. I suggest that we spend more effort on the methods being used to acheive these perfectly marginal joints. Bill (just did one wrong) Swingle Janesville, CA RCSE-List facilities provided by Model Airplane News. Send subscribe and unsubscribe requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] Please note that subscribe and unsubscribe messages must be sent in text only format with MIME turned off. Email sent from web based email such as Hotmail and AOL are generally NOT in text format RCSE-List facilities provided by Model Airplane News. Send subscribe and unsubscribe requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] Please note that subscribe and unsubscribe messages must be sent in text only format with MIME turned off. Email sent from web based email such as Hotmail and AOL are generally NOT in text format RCSE-List facilities provided by Model Airplane News. Send subscribe and unsubscribe requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] Please note that subscribe and unsubscribe messages must be sent in text only format with MIME turned off. Email sent from web based email such as Hotmail and AOL are generally NOT in text format
