Re: Faux firebox
Amazing Vance! I got the picture Bob
Re: Latest Project rolls out of shops.
Very nice Kevin. Look forward to seeing it run at DH. Bob
Re: Frank S. gas supply tube gasket?
Is there supposed to be a gasket in the fitting at the tender end of the Frank S. gas tube? If so, what type? Nope! There is none in mine and it does not leak Bob
Re: Stephenson Valve Gear
I found the books available thru Amazon.com. The title is: Making Mechanical Marvels out of Wood by Raymond Levy; cost is $14.95. Again, it's quite a delightful book, but I never did build any of the mechanisms. This is a great book if you ever decide to do any Automata sculptures. The other book that I was refering to is called: Making Wooden Mechanical Models by Alan Bridgewater; $21.95. It is out of print, but seems to be available used. Both books come up on Amazon and you can look at the table of contents. Bob Starr
Re: How small is too small?
Pete, You might be interested in this page. It has a pretty consice article on how to build Idris, a De Winton model. http://www.davewatkins.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/steam.htm Bob Starr
Re: sslivesteam2-Digest - Number 294
In a message dated 7/30/2004 4:29:23 PM Pacific Daylight Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: How come only two coal fired engines produced any real smoke, were the others electric?! Smoke was one thing, but all them sparks!! Quite the show when ya did run Tony :-). Jackie and I had a wonderful time; well, I suppose I had a better time than she. But I mde it up to her by going camping at Pismo Beach on the way home. I'm looking forward to next year's event. All of you put together a great event and you deserve three hardy cheers. Not sure what I enjoy more the running of the trains or just the great time we have with a wonderful bunch of people. Bob Jackie, , of course, Ms. Daysee
Re: Soldering question: galvanized steel and brass
Unless you clean all the galvinizing off you will not be able to solder, and, besides, the fumes created by heating the plating is highly toxic. So your best bet is to stick to mechanical means of attachment. Bob Starr
Re: What grade material to use?
I have always used hot rolled steel for frames. It seems cold rolled develops stress areas and loses it's shape or warps. Bob Starr
Re: sslivesteam2-Digest - Number 269
In a message dated 6/29/2004 7:13:07 PM Pacific Daylight Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: On the other hand, doing a verdigris finish on a copper weather vane with brass quadrants can be verrry lucrative Ah Walt! I think the overseas crowd has taken over that market too! :-( Most of the good metal working books have these formulaes, but it is good to see them so readily available. But, I do agree, these mixes are very toxic. I have used them in jewelry making and metal sculpture. And, Royce, unfortunately many are not that durable. You are right, black, wears off fast and about the only way to keep it on is to cler laquer over it. Flat surfaces are the worst. Bob
Re: Question about lubricators
Jon, I see no reason why it would not work. It seems like all th Accucraft engines have their lubricators inside the cab. I realize that they are not dead leg, but I don't think it would make a difference. Looks like you're up to usual fine workmanship, nice model. It was good to see you at the QM. Bob Starr
Re: Imported steam - can the US compete?
In a message dated 6/13/2004 11:13:28 AM Pacific Daylight Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: In a message dated 6/13/2004 3:09:24 AM Eastern Daylight Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: my point is that the dearth of live steam in garden/back yard railroadways in the US is probably due to something other than fears of litigation- perhaps LGB as Sam mentions, and other gauge 1 electric stuff too (Aristocraft, Bachman, etc. I'm a Brit who likes Aster A3s and A4s and UK light rail. I became an american as well in the late '80s and I found some really neat narrow gauge railroads, such as the EBT. My observation, from the perspective of switching to a garden railroad in the '90s, is that the US didn't have the 2' prototypes and therefore the SM32 concept was a non-starter. So the simple Roundhouse-type live steamers never took hold. However, there was a small, hard-core fraternity running Aster and similar gauge-1 locos that were too expensive and fiddly for the 'average' guy. Along came LGB, creating awareness of the potential outdoors in gauge-1, followed by Bachmann, Aristo, et al. Then Accucraft jumps in with live steam versions of their electric NG locos, and 1:20.3 was off and running. If you let your mouse wander over to _www.mylargescale.com_ (http://www.mylargescale.com) , you'll find the Live Steam forum active and bursting with new converts. Check out the photos from the Queen Mary LS Show, where the mylargescale (MLS) crew fraternized around two live steam tracks. MLS is even running a live steam 'class' to help folk upgrade the Ruby, and has arranged a bulk purchase of Ruby kits. (I'm always telling them to post complicated questions here!) Carolwood has orders for 170 Fort Wilderness locos -- mostly from new converts. That's a lot of orders for just one loco in one batch. There's a huge demand out there from newbies. Jim Stapleton is having his Open House/Steam-up as I write this. There'll be roughly the same number of Aster 1:32nd locos as usual; maybe 10% more. But I'll bet there will be a lot of new folk with 1:20.3 locos running NG models. I've passed invites to quite a few guys I talked to through MLS or other 1:20.3 venues, such as Roger Cutter's RGS East and Clem's modular 1:20.3 track -- which started as an electric demo for his store, but has been taken over by live steamers on many occasions! I'm surprised there aren't any US manufacturers. You know Aristocraft have promised a chinese-made live steamer sometime? They've already released a brass railcar. Perhaps the problem is that there isn't a cottage industry in metal models? There's lots of wooden models, and a few plastic kits, but no brass etching or casting. We keep trying -there have been many conversations about getting some 1:20.3 wheels made, but none have ever panned out. Pete Pete, Thanks for mentioning the QM steamup, I was not sure if anybody had read my post here with my links to the pictures. The list of converts is getting to be very great among the sparkies. It was they who helped me build the track so that live steam would not die a sudden death at the Queen Mary Big Train Show. One of my helpers actualy bought a 3 cylinder shay just to have it to run on the new track. In the years that I have been running the track there, I have seen many people run into the show and buy themselves a livesteamer and camp out at the track for the rest of the show. This year, three of my personal friends have done exactly that and we will now find them among our ranks. I do not consider myself any sort of a manufacturer of engines, but every one of them that I have built has sold immediately. Of course, at the moment I am out of business since I have no tooling to build them right now. I guess as far as it goes for American builders we just have to wait for someone with the right amount of time on their hands and the capital to back themselves up. I certainly do have to applaud Accucraft for making live steam available to the masses! Bob Starr
Pictures of the Queen Mary Steam Up
The live steam track event at the The Big Train Show was a big success this past weekend. Many people who frequent this list were there and it seemed like everybody had an enjoyable time. This event is unique in that a great majority of the attendees come to buy for their electric train layouts. But, before they get there they must pass the live steam track. The majority become very captivated by our engines and we certainly are able to win converts to our side of the hobby. It amazes me the amount of misconception that is attributed to our trains. Four years ago I took over the responsibilities of this track and Clark Lord and I set it up and just a handful of us ran that year. Mostly Clark and myself. It has now become a major portion of the show and this year I built a new track with the aid of some very good friends. Also, Dwight Ennis was able to bring his smaller track to help with the ever increasing amount of attendees, which number in the thirty plus. We ran well into the nights on Friday and Saturday with dim but ample light in the parking lot. Saturday we had electricity and a BBQ with more than forty people. I could post individual pictures for your enjoyment, but, instead, I will point you all to a link to the MLS board where there is a predominant amount of pictures dealing with the live steam part of the show and even some movies. (This is with sincere apologies to our list mom). http://mylargescale.com/forum/forum.asp?FORUM_ID=23 http://mylargescale.com/forum/forum.asp?FORUM_ID=19 Any topics dealing with the QM show will bring up a lot pictures of live steam and the track. I think it is noteworthy to read some of the posts to see how much live steam has affected their show experience.
New Developement in the QUeen Mary Steamup
I have received permission from the BTS and the QM people to have a (BYOF) BBQ on Saturday night. I have to give them a rough figure as to how many might attend. So, if you want to let me know. And BTW, I have to have names in for those that are running by May 16th. This entitles you to a name tag which will get you into the show for free. So, those who have not made up their do it quick! Bob Starr
Re: Computers AOL 9.0
Pete, Not true! You can right click on your message before you send it and an option comes up to send as plain text Bob
The Queen Mary Steamup
Those of you who intend to run on my track on June 5-6 need to send me your names so that I can get the name tags produced. I have recieved my paperwork from the BTS and will need to get it back to them soon. Either email me at [EMAIL PROTECTED] or call (909)336-2715 Bob Starr
The QM Track
New pics can be found here for anybody that is interested: http://mylargescale.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=21310whichpage=3 Bob
Re: Cross-tubes was Libelous Rant
One process that has not been mentioned that I use when I build a cross tube boiler is to flange the crosstubes once they have been put thru their respective holes in the flue tube. This will increase the area that the solder adheres to. Bob
The Sparkies and One Steamer
Will be back at building the QM track this weekend. It certainly is an interesting turn of events. Gee, I hope I don't have to hook power to the track in June. I'm sorry guys, but I just find it a bit odd that these people are going out of their way to make live steam a reality at the biggest show on the west coast and no one who runs on the track has even offered to participate. Yes, many people from everywhere helped Jackie and I get back on our feet and that is greatly appreciated. The track did burn in the fire and I could have just abadonned it and left the show without a steam track as it was four years ago when no one as a group or individual wanted to take the responsibility. Instead, I have opted to rebuild the track at my own expense and responsibility. My opinion is that since the QM show is the largest Large Scale show that exists, live steam needs it's representation. Last year we had the biggest turnout of live steamers ever in the history of the track and it was an impressive weekend. OK, I am sure that everybody has reasons why they can't come. Maybe, you live too far away.Let's see; this weekend we have people coming from Phoenix and Visalia, Ca. or: I don't know anything about working metalPlenty of other things to do, paint, grind, etc. or: I'm too old to do this.One guy is 72, bless his heart and he has been there for the whole thing. OK, I am off my soap box. The track WILL be there in June so you can run on it. My phone # is (909)336-2715, my email address is [EMAIL PROTECTED] These are the directions where we will be this weekend; Roland Seavey's House 480 W. Ave. L Calimesa, Ca. PH # 909-795-4607 coming from San Bernardino on the I10 (east bound) past the Yucaipa off ramps, just past a rest area take the County line Rd. off ramp, thur left under the freeway, turn right at the stop lights go one long block to the next stop light and turn left, that is Ave L the next intersection is a 4 way stop go through this and I am the third house on the left. Coming from the east (psalm springs etc) leave freeway at Calimesa Blvd. exit turn right at the stop light, this road turns to the left very quickly and becomes 5Th St. go north to the second 4 way stop and turn right on Ave. L then third house on the left. Bob Starr
Update to the QM Track Rebuild
The first weekend devoted to the track was a great success! If you are interested in seeing pictures of the progress you can see it here: http://mylargescale.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=21310 The only live steamer present was me. Bob Starr
The New Queen Mary Track
The official start of rebuilding the Queen Mary Track will be the weekend of March 20-21. This new track is to replace the one that burned in October and will be an all steel construction. It will be similar in size to the old green track 30' x 46' with 15' radius and 16' straight sections. A work party will be getting together at my friend Roland Seavey's house in Calimesa to help with the construction. These people are from the MLS board and for the most part don't have any steam engines. They just want to see the success of live steam at the the QM and elsewhere. Here is an address to the the original thread on the board: http://mylargescale.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=20582 If you want to join in on the fun let us know. My phone # is (909)336-2715. Roland and I went and bought a bunch of steel on Thursday so we are getting real serious. Here is a link to a drawing of the new track: http://1stclass.mylargescale.com/BobStarr/Pictures/new%20track%20plan.jpg And a drawing of the details: http://1stclass.mylargescale.com/BobStarr/Track%20Detail.jpg Hope to see some people out to help. Bob
Back on Line
I would like to personally thank everybody for everything that you have done for Jackie and me. I made a very long post with pictures at this address and it will give you all an idea of what has happened http://mylargescale.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=18511 I will write more tomorrow Bob
Re: Fire!!!!! Burned
To all you wonderful friends, Today will be probably one of the heaviest days in Jackie an my life as we will be having our first chance to return to our house. Jackie is still holding out hope that it might still be there, but not me. They interviewed one of my neighbors digging thru his rubble yesterday on channel 7 and so many others have told me different. I am scared for her and myself for the shock of what we will face. I will hold her dearly and attempt to be the total support that I need to be for her. I ask for all your prayers for this strength. There will be no electricity where we will be staying for quite some time. My friend, who has graciously allowed us to stay her cabin is out of the burn zone, but still dark. This means that I will be out of touch on the internet for quite awhile. My home phone voice mail still works and that number is (909)336-2715 and the number where we will be staying is (909)336-6598. It is going to be a physical and mentally tough time for us. It is snowing up there and the high is going to be in the forties. Because the electricity will be out, heat will not function and we will have to rely on the fireplace. Jackie and I are both strong Geminis and we will survive. After all that makes four people to rely on. Pray for our strength, that is the best thing you can do for us today. Thank You, Bob, Jackie, Ms. Daysee
Re: Fire!!!!!
So as to update everybody,I had a friend contact me today and he confirmed that my house and all the other houses on my cul de sac are all burned. They still will not allow us to return. My friend sneaked up there. Bob
Re: Fire!!!!!
Just to update everybody. We are still displaced to Pasadena, but might know soon when we can return. It rained and snowed on the mountain today and I guess that helps except for mudslides. I still do not know whether our house is still there, but there is a webpage that has been trying to find all of this out. My house is listed as possibly safe which means that it has not been checked but the area only hs spotted areas of burn. I am keeping myself occupied by rebuilding a wall in my friends house. Jackie of course is stitchin'. I am also going to go down to the train store later. I like the Whistle Stop, small but nice Bob Jackie Ms. Daysee
Re: Fire!!!!! Burned
I just got a call from one of my neighbors and it is confirmed our house and all the others have burned. It is absolutely awful Bob
The Fires!!!!!
To all on the list. Jackie and I are ok. We have been evacuated from our house in the mountains. Right at this moment it is possibly burning. We left there on Saturday and moved to a motel in Big Bear. That is a mountain town which is now twenty miles or less from the fire. We left today because smoke was too thick and we are now staying in Pasadena with a good friend. I need all your prayers to help me thru this. I have no idea when or if I will have a home to go back to. Bob Jackie
Re: message
Gary, I thought it was kind of cool myself! Here is a page on it for all to see: http://www.hornbyrailways.com/pages/livestm_live.aspx Here is another page: http://www.hornbyrailways.com/pages/livestm_loco.aspx I guess it comes as a set. Bob Starr
Re: Ruby 4-4-0 (was Re: knock, knock ...Here's One)
Steve, Thanks for your input. Yes, I have some Gary Raymond wheels in that size and they just don't seem to want to fit! I used them for my 2-4-0 and it was perfect. It does not want to work for the rear set behind the cylinders. I don't get enough clearance. Bob
Re: knock, knock ...
In a message dated 9/28/03 12:26:22 AM Pacific Daylight Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: Or are the good ones as rare as hen's teeth, Mike, What I hear the most from my customers is that people just don't show up! I guess that is why I am never out of work. Bob
Re: knock, knock ...Here's One
Yep, Dave, steamin', workin' for money, and workin' in the shop. Sometimes the pooter is more for a drawing aid than a plaything. Here is a project I started, but shelved for the time being. A Ruby 4-4-0, picture here: http://1stclass.mylargescale.com/BobStarr/Pictures/4-4-0%20R.jpg Eccentrics will be moved to the front axle. I don't think that I can go with larger wheels. I am going to have to turn my own front truck wheels from some cast stock as I cannot find anything small enough. They need to be .75 on the tread. Meanwhile, I am finishing up a Ruby Forney, a bit unlike the rest I have seen. Will this start a discussion, Dave? Bob Starr
Re: knock, knock ...Here's One
Keith, I have looked at some of the Argent locomotives and thought about doing one of them. Maybe on my next one. I am going to try and document what I am doing and writing an article on the process. 4-4-0 are very popular and what I have done so far is really not too difficult to do. I figure with Accucraft coming out with the Ruby as a kit, people might be considering some serious kitbashing. Bob
Re: knock, knock ...
Gary, You should try doing that kind of stuff for a living like I do! Seems like such a simple job, but sure can turn into a nightmare real quick. Ya have my sympathy! Bob aka The Honeydoer Handyman Service
Tom Bowdler
Read yer mail I can't send ya anything yer mailbox is FULL!!! Bob
Re: Copper (was: Re: Some alternatives was BPE safety valve)
Boy! I guess that I am going to consider myself lucky! There is a metal and pipe supplier near me (40 miles, but, then, that is the price I pay for living in the mountains) that has all the rems that I ever need. They have a shearing shop that makes large runs of copper sheet and there are times there are two and three square foot pieces of copper sheet just scattered all over! It really is an amazing place and I hate never having enough money to get all that I need or should I say want:-) Bob
Re: BPE safety valve
Boy, I sure agree with you on this one Harry! One can't expect to post information to the contrary to an international fourm where so many people come to seek sound information and guidance and not have it scrutinized, questioned, and objected to, if only by me. I post to the MLS board and have to constantly advise so many people of unsafe practices. There is a great deal of people new to steam there. I cannot imagine why the Midwest boiler is what it is except that it was originally designed to be in a boat. I guess their thinking was if gave out it would be at some distance from the operator :-). Certainly have seen many of them run just perfectly, tho. I could certainly, myself, never dream of designing and building any boiler without a safety valve or using soft soldering. Those of you who choose to modify the boiler should be very careful. And in the long run, if you are going to all that much trouble, it makes sense to start with the right materials and learn techniques in hard silver soldering. Just my .02 worth, Bob Starr
Re: BPE boiler mods?
I have been reading this thread with interest and while I have never built the BPE, my grasshopper Logger has some similarities. This is a link to a drawing of the boiler that I have designed for my engine: http://1stclass.mylargescale.com/BobStarr/Pictures/ghboiler.jpg I originally had used a superheater in the design and the one that I run has that boiler in it. I don't really find that has much value. I will say that the best improvements that I have obtained is from the quills in the bottom sheet and the cross tubes in the flue. These boilers are considerably heavier duty than the Midwest boilers and are fired by a butane ceramic heater. I think that if I were to ever build one I would not even bother with a sterno fire and would figure out some other type of heat source. I believe John Thompson's article covered building one. Incidently, I do have the his whole article scanned into my computer if anybody wants it. Write me off list and I can send it to you. Bob
Re: Need help identifying engines/owners for SitG photos!!!
Mike, I am not certain, but believe that 047 was one of Rob Meadows cars. Jackie pointed out that you left the d out of Diamondhead in 044 (ever the secretary!). Bob
Re: boiler test
In a message dated 8/16/03 1:23:17 PM Pacific Daylight Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: Man, do I feel lucky. Oh sure!!! I know this guy!!! He is so meticulous in his wonderful work, that I would not expect anything less!!! Congrats Royce! It is a great accomplishment. Bob
A convergence of the Starrs
I beg the boards indulgence with this off topic subject. I just would like to tell you all that Jackie and I are married now. I must have gotten some steam oil in my eye or something :-). Hey! She is a fine woman, and she likes trains! What more could a guy ask for. We are very happy. Bob and Jackie Starr
Re: Cracker (Re: 45mm track)
In a message dated 8/1/03 9:05:49 AM Pacific Daylight Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: Mike actually built one or two 2-cyl. And he told me that they did wheelies!!! I can believe it too! Very powerful little engine and one my favorites Bob
Re: Flux and Brass (was NOT Silversoldering Stainless Steel)
OK, I have been following a lot of this discussion in the background and I guess that my limited experience might help. In soft soldering non-ferrous metals, the heat can be a major problem. When lead or zinc contacts something like brass, zinc, copper, silver, and gold it has the adverse reaction of dissolving the parent metals. This is why many jewelers will not touch gold rings that have resized with soft solder (often the case from low end jewelery stores). Gold will dissappear almost instantly when too much heat is applied. There has been a lot of discussion about torches. I certainly have had a few turbo-torch types and used them a lot in my jewelery store. But for my money, I still would build any size boiler, and have, with my oxy-acetelene rig. Yes, they put out a lot of heat, but I just use a good reducing flame and this softens things up for me. I do like to get my whole boiler well up to temp before my solder flows, you get your best penetration that way. Bob
Re: Silversoldering Stainless Steel
Hi Royce, I, personally, have trouble often with soldering stainless too. I assume that your are intending to hard solder it. It seems that cleanliness is, as always, the most important thing with this material. I have never had any success unless I use the black flux which is intended for stainless and is rated at the highest heat. All I can recommend is to not overheat the stainless, it quickly gets a firescale coat that will not allow the solder to flow. As in all hard soldering techniques you should try and bring the pieces to be joined to the same temperature as evenly as possible. Sometimes that certainly means concentrating your heat on the largest object and allowing that piece to heat the smaller. Bob
Re: Silversoldering Stainless Steel
In a message dated 7/6/03 12:46:21 PM Pacific Daylight Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: I don't understand the problem. Mike, Actually, I was reflecting more when I built armatures for puppets in the movie industry when I answered Royce. I always had to solder brass balls to the ends of stainless rod for the puppet joints. If I put too much flux into the hole in the ball, it would just push it off the rod. It didn't take me long, tho, to figure out an adjustable jig to overcome the problem. There were times that the joint would look perfect and the damn ball would just fall off! I use a minature oxy-acetelene for most all of my work. I like it for the ability to weld in minature. Bob
Re: Albuquerque
In a message dated 6/26/03 5:21:43 PM Pacific Daylight Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: Both files appear to have been started by idiots shooting off fireworks or, worse, by sickos setting them deliberately. Glad you are alright Vance! I am sitting on a tinder box here and worry about the sickos too. The bark beetle infestation up here has just made things horribly dangerous. All the news on TV gives these sick people ideas too. Sorry Dave about the off topic Bob
Re: The Queen Mary Steamup
In a message dated 6/10/03 4:05:56 PM Pacific Daylight Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: Any word on when the Ruby kit will be available? Less than six months Bob
Re: blower fans
I made my own according to the Brazil plans, it was very easy. I can bring it to the QM so you can see how I made it. Email me off list, I need to talk anyway. Bob
Re: Long steam train
In a message dated 5/29/03 12:39:19 AM Pacific Daylight Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: Anyone have any photos of long live steam guage one trains? Clark! Quick! Send him a picture of Kevin O'Conner's 100 car consist with the Big Boy. What a day that was! Bob
Re: Silver solder flux
In a message dated 4/2/03 11:59:42 AM Pacific Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: (looks like borax in water, but has other stuff in it, too) Battern's self pickling flux? Real good stuff, liquid and greenish color. Bob
Re: CA glue
In a message dated 4/1/03 7:32:23 AM Pacific Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: And speaking of glue, can you use CA the same way you use loctite ? I do!!! Bob
Re: Materials compatibility
For machining small parts, registering holes between parts, and a multitude of uses, I find Zap a Gap CA to work wonders. Saves a lot of time and grief. Bob
Re: Larry's Steamup
In a message dated 3/25/03 11:49:16 AM Pacific Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: I particularly like the hand powered caboose hovering in the sky above Gary White's CS mogul. Yep! That's Gary! The treads fell of the wheels! We really did have a good time.
Re: Roadshow
I guess I have been tooting my horn about steam power to the unintiated public for quite awhile. When I was very active in the outdoor art show circuit doing metal suclpture I always had at least one or two sculptures powered by stationary engines. Usually they were variations on amusement park rides such as spinning airplanes (set up like a flyball governor) or even ferris wheels. Last summer I did one show where I made a small two foot diameter track and ran my Cricket and the engine that I produce the Grashopper Logger. Other artist get very jealous because I can generate a serious crowd at my booth. When I set up my large portable track at such places as the Queen Mary, people are standing three and four deep watching us run. I think that is probably one of the best places to recruit new people into the hobby and it has happened at every show that at least one or two are bringing their newly purchased locomotive to run on the track. So, in that vein, I urge all of you that are able, to come and run there in June and help do your part in furthering this hobby. Bob Starr A HREF=http://www.geocities.com/cgnr.geo/;ART IN GARDEN RAILROADING-THE CGNR/A http://www.geocities.com/cgnr.geo/
Larry's Steamup
Here are pictures I took at Larry Banghams' this weekend. Thanks Larry and Dorthy, Jackie and I had a great time. http://1stclass.mylargescale.com/BobStarr/LARRY%20BANGHAM%20STEAMUP.html Bob Starr Our lives begin to end the day we become silent about things that matter Dr. Martin Luther King, Jr http://www.standforpeace.com A HREF=http://www.geocities.com/cgnr.geo/;ART IN GARDEN RAILROADING-THE CGNR/A http://www.geocities.com/cgnr.geo/
The Whole Article
Ok Gang, Here is the entire article. Charles, thanks for that explanation and your formulae reminded me why chemistry was not my strong suit. http://1stclass.mylargescale.com/BobStarr/Pictures/vapor%20burner1.jpg http://1stclass.mylargescale.com/BobStarr/Pictures/vapor%20burner2.jpg http://1stclass.mylargescale.com/BobStarr/Pictures/vapor%20burner3.jpg http://1stclass.mylargescale.com/BobStarr/Pictures/vapor%20burner.jpg Those who want to retain it should just be able to save them to their own files by right clicking on picture. Bob
Re: Online Survey
In a message dated 3/17/03 11:30:51 AM Pacific Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: (I just returned from India, rode the Darjeeling Himalaya railway into Darjeeling!) LET'S SEE SOME PICS THEN :-) Bob
Re: alcohol vs butane vs white gas
It is my understanding that manufacturers have stayed away from white gas burners because of the volatile nature of the fuel. As far as vaporizing burners, I thought the prefered fuel is kerosene. Somewhere in my files is the vaporizer that the man from N Ca, can't remember his name, had in all of his engines and his son offers on the internet. Bob
Re: alcohol vs butane vs white gas
Oh yeah, Ken Shattock is his son Bob
Re: alcohol vs butane vs white gas
In a message dated 3/16/03 11:10:51 AM Pacific Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: He will sell you the plans Gee, I got them for free years ago! Bob
Re: alcohol vs butane vs white gas
I guess I am thinking of some of the larger scale ones that I have seen. Clark, your 1 is kerosene, right? Bob
Re: alcohol vs butane vs white gas
In a message dated 3/16/03 1:18:47 PM Pacific Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: Want to share? Be happy to! I will look for them; they were pre-divorce so they could be in a box somewhere. When I find them I will scan them Bob
Re: alcohol vs butane vs white gas/Ken Shattock Burner
OK! I found the article by Ken about his grandfather Victor. The burner is the same as Clark's shay. This is why I had brought his engine into this discussion. Here is a scan of the main drawings on the burner: http://1stclass.mylargescale.com/BobStarr/Pictures/vapor%20burner.jpg This article is written by Ken, but I am surprised he can sell it; as what I have is a copy from Live Steam magazine March 1976. Here is an interesting footnote, tho, that appears from the editor: For the uninitiated, the poison gas plant reference harks back to LBSC, the British designer of small locomotives. Alcohol fired flames applied to copper produces a formaldehyde gas which, as many substances, can be lethal in adequate dosage. Its pungent odor will be objectionable if operated in an unventilated room. but NO Live Steam equipment should be fired in a closed area without adequate ventilation first provided. Editor Oh now my finger are tired from all that typing! I thought the poison gas part was interesting and have never that. Bob
Re: Accucraft live steam Daylight GS-4: It's for real!
In a message dated 3/15/03 11:22:44 AM Pacific Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: maybe they could do dual fuel, maybe gas/coal... I would sure be interested in where that survey came from!? I think that it would be rather difficult to coal fire a gas flue tubed boiler. You do sort of need a firebox for coal! Best you could do would be a radiant heater that could be exchanged for grates. Bob
Re: Im not sure where we are now
In a message dated 3/12/03 11:52:12 AM Pacific Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: And regarding leaks (like at steamchest, cylinder interfaces, is there a recommended way to gasket them (ie, sealant or gasket ?) Back to that dollar bill gasket again! They work real nice. One way or another you are going to pay money for material. I try to avoid sealants, they seem to gum up the passages, no matter how hard you try to avoid it! Hey Royce, so the Philly will be running for the QM steamup? He says hopefully! Bob
Re: Leaking Ruby valves?
Something to check; not sure that this is problem, but. I find my Ruby valve events change with wear. Trying running it on air and apply gentle pressure to the valve rod in a forward direction. I have found that setting the valves in the static state doesn't always work as the pressure and slop don't work in our favor. My cure has been to gently, key word here, grab the rod with pliers and bend them toward the valve. Seems to work better than trying to thread it in, the rod gets sloppy on the threads out at the ends. Bob
Re: O rings - another question
In a message dated 3/11/03 9:35:52 AM Pacific Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: Ruby doesn't have O-ring cylinder covers. It uses metal to metal seals. It is pretty simple to thread 3/16 x 40 and use corresponding 1/4 hex nuts. I wrap graphite yarn in mine, but I still have problems with leaks,; it's just better. Bob
Re: Back to O rings
In a message dated 3/11/03 1:36:31 PM Pacific Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: There is no reason for the piston to touch the cylinder wall OK Mike, I realize that it need not, but how come there are countless books written with chapters on the process of good running fits on pistons. I find this interesting as I am just now refurbishing a cylinder that was in my scrap pile. When I ran it, I had a lot of blowby and when I took the piston out there was .015 difference between the bore. I did not measure the oring dimension but I suspect that was more the trouble. I actually have ruined more piston cutting the groove than missing that diameter. I just love it when the tool grabs the work and bends the rod and all! Bob
Re: Bronze Dee parts
In a message dated 3/11/03 7:57:20 PM Pacific Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: He is doing an INCREDIBLE JOB!! Give me a break! You are raising the wrong kind of steam here! Bob
Re: O rings - another question
In a message dated 3/11/03 4:47:26 PM Pacific Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: I don't understand how this would be done simply... Can you elaborate? Landon, Not a problem, sorry that I didn't make it clear. The gland on the front cover is just the right size to accept a 3/16 x 40 thread. I imagine I did mine on my lathe with a die (can't remember), but with some care you can do it by hand. I made my own gland nut out of 1/4 hex stock. You could also use a union nut from SSSteam part #FUN-3 and drill it for the piston rod. You might have to file some of the nut away so that the piston makes it's full travel. Before you screw the nut in place wrap the rod with graphited yarn; just a single strand. After I have things set to the non leaking stage, I have been putting a dab of super glue on the threads to keep it from loosening. If you go here, I took a picture of mine. Excuse the oil and the peeling paint, she is undergoing test runs at the moment on the new liquid butane system which is giving me great long runs. http://1stclass.mylargescale.com/BobStarr/Pictures/ruby%20front%20cover.jpg Bob
Re: Size matters
Almost deleted that for the subject line Bob
Re: Existing steam whistle
Looks like PM research stuff; good kits. I think a whistle of that size would just deplete your boiler in no time. With our little boilers we seem to have to a bit conservative with our steam supply. Bob
Re: TSP, Primer for Brass?
In a message dated 2/5/03 5:57:24 PM Pacific Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: Does someone have experience with TSP (Trisodium phosphate?, paint cleaner available in hardware stores in North America) for priming brass? I think that you might be refering to priming in a different manner than the usual. TSP is a cleaning agent, and a good one, but not a paint primer. What it will do is prepare your metal for a paint primer by degreasing it. This should be your first step in painting any metal. Follow this with a good paint primer, I usually don't, and then your color of choice. Bob
Re: sslivesteam-Digest - Number 1073
In a message dated 2/1/03 7:26:05 AM Pacific Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: For inside, through the fire, locations has anyone ever tried making some co-ax? Anneal a length of small diameter copper tube, pull a wire through, and load the tube with bathtube (or silicon) caulk. The whole assembly would be bendable and relatively heat resistant. Harry! Not a bad idea at all! But, instead of silicone, how about muffler bandage stuff. A tube of it that I have says it contains sodium silicate. The trick I would think is how to get it to go in. Isn't sodium silicate also known as water glass? Bob
Re: Drawbar Pulling Competition Results
In a message dated 1/31/03 4:14:27 AM Pacific Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: I'd be glad to come with the equipment if they want to pay my way! LOL Bob
Re: Drawbar Pulling Competition Results
In a message dated 1/30/03 6:30:00 AM Pacific Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: My entry was correct - 46%. It totally threw me too. Entirely possible! Last time I was at Clark's track, I was tuning up one of my logging engines that Darryl Noble owns and I lifted one of the bridges to about that same angle and it climbed right up it. Gears! All the way! Will you bring the drawbar to the summer steamup in Sac? Bob
Re: Layout construction web pages up
Looks real good Dave, I like what you have done. If we get up there any time soon we will have to watch out for my Jackie, she is a light house freak...:). Oh yeah! We will be in the bay area for New Years, Oakland Col. for the Other Ones (Grateful Dead) Yeah! Always the old hippie Bob
Re: Scotch Yoke
Cool animations Pete! I think I was there once before. I believe that this was one of James Watt's first inventions. At that period they called it a slide crank. The picture I posted a while back with the little stationary engine has a slide crank mechanism. Here it is again: http://gold.mylargescale.com/BobStarr/Pictures/cyl.jpg Bob
Re: Scotch Yoke
Great little engines. Here is the link: A HREF=http://www.grahamind.com/;http://www.grahamind.com//A Bob
Re: Display guard
I think that I would just have a piece of plexiglass in front to keep prying hands out. Bob
Re: R/C at less than 180 degrees
Steve, That's a great site! Glad to see that there are so many people as obsessed as we are! Bob
Re: R/C question
I saw the commercial last night for those little tiny R/C cars that Radio Shack is now selling. Has anybody torn into one of those for a look at useable servos and parts? I heard that they were only $20. Bob
Re: suggestions
In a message dated 11/29/02 5:34:17 PM Pacific Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: 15% tax. Yeow!! Bob
Re: Mimi inaugural run
In a message dated 11/29/02 3:44:43 PM Pacific Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: Anybody have a link to a website showing a good, clean installation in a Ruby cab? Check out Dwight Ennis' article on MLS. He did a pretty neat job: http://www.mylargescale.com/resources/articles/ruby/ruby01.asp Bob
Re: Help with Accucraft Ida mods
In a message dated 11/26/02 7:33:08 AM Pacific Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: I want the burner converted to the Radiant Poker Burner type, and I need a couple of copper nipples silver soldered to a stainless steel tube so that I can run the steam pipe thru the flue. I have tried both the radiant burner and super heater in my Rubys with very limited success. To get one to work, one would need to totally rebuild the poker as it becomes too large by the time you wrap it. This restricts the air flow and you are back to square one. Even with the superheater on top, I just kept burning it up. At this moment the most sucessful change that I have made to the butane system is to change it to liquid feed with an accumalator tank next to the boiler. I just started last night building a second shut off valve between the boiler and the jet. I am using a #6 Roundhouse. Bob Starr A HREF=http://www.geocities.com/cgnr.geo/;ART IN GARDEN RAILROADING-THE CGNR/A http://www.geocities.com/cgnr.geo/
Re: clearance
Walt, I think I might have posted this link before a while back. This is a page a guy Rick Blanchard put together a few years back on useful railroad dimensions, seems to cover track centers. http://www.urbaneagle.com/data/RRstddims.html Bob
Re: Fabricating cylinders: Screwball or practical?
Wasn't sure if this picture made around the other night. This is the method that Vance had metioned and that I have used in the past. http://gold.mylargescale.com/BobStarr\Pictures\cyl.jpg Bob
Re: gte has first run
Good for you Dave! Me, I am facing a dilema with my track. They have to drop this huge dead tree in my back yard. Landlord won't say when, just that they are going to do it. It will land right on the track, or at the very least they will leave all the trunks right smack in the middle. I think it will be up to me to cut it up and burn, haul it away. I am a bit bummed with the prospects. Bob
Re: Fabricating cylinders: Screwball or practical?
In a message dated 11/19/02 2:16:40 PM Pacific Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: Thanks, Mart, for sending Steve's post. Steve, Gordon Watson (Argyle or AUS) gave a talk on fabricating cylinders several years ago at the Diamondhead Steamup. Many of his ideas were similar to yours. He took a chunk of brass rod (say, 1), milled off a flat, and drilled port holes into the flat. He then silver brazed a brass bar to the flat, also with steam passages milled/drilled into it, to make a steam saddle. Not prototypical, but simple, looks close enough, and apparently works. Several people (including Ron Brown, I believe) asked him to take his sketches and write a few words around them for an article, but it never happened. Some people would rather build than write about it, which I have to respect. The short answer to your original question is: Practical. regards, -vance- I have used this method to build up cylinders before. So, I dug thru boxes of junk until I came up with some examples of this technique. Took a picture of it and this should get you there: http://gold.mylargescale.com/BobStarr\Pictures\cyl.jpg It is relatively simple to build this way. In the picture you are looking at the backside of the steamchest and the flat on the cylinder. In the background is the complete engine. The center horizantal slot is the exhaust and the two center vertical slots are the connecting steamports for the slide valve holes. Bolts go straight thru the steam chest cover to the cylinder with gaskets inbetween. As far as the idea you present, I would not use steel at all. Too much problem with rust. Any droplets of water in the cylinders left after a run would cause rust. I also think that it would involve too much soldering to allow for any kind of accuracy to the bore. I think that the less amount of soldering that I could do to a cylinder the better. Bob
Re: Instant Aster Collection
In a message dated 11/17/02 7:31:25 AM Pacific Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: Try to get someone to custom machine, fit and finish a Big Boy to Aster standards, and then assemble it for you Unfortunately, no modeler could ever compare to the comparatives of CNC machining to whatever degree it is taken. One of many will never outweigh to the uniqueness of the only one. Bob
Re: Soldering and welding require practice.
In a message dated 11/16/02 6:44:11 AM Pacific Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: and most of them were women with no prior tool knowledge. Isn't that what we call a virgin ? this isn't why your last wife sold your tool collection out from under you, is it ? : ) royce in SB Boy! Royce she did not fall into the virgin category; not with her past Just a B#$@ and knew how to hurt me the most! Oh well, it is just a way to upgrade the tools in the shop. :-). Jackie knows tools and trains are important, so time moves on. Bob
Re: silver soldering
In a message dated 11/16/02 6:18:04 AM Pacific Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: How about a clinic / demo / hands-on at Diamondhead? I'll bet you'd have to do multiple sessions to accomodate all who'd like to learn this skill. Tom Unfortunately, Tom, I am not going to make DH this year. I am doing an art show in Quartzite, AZ. Same dates, can we change DH? Bob
Re: Soldering and welding require practice.
It is unfortunate that I am so far away from everybody, because I would be happy to show anyone how to solder. I have taught many apprentices when I had my jewelry store how to silver solder and most of them were women with no prior tool knowledge. Anybody that wants to come to the SoCal mountains is sure welcome. Bob
Re: Hi Ho Silver (Brazing)!
In a message dated 11/15/02 12:56:44 PM Pacific Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: With a single formed piece the entire piece must be brought up to melting temperature and the entire length of it will probably not be in direct contact with the workpiece. Steve, It is very important to bring your whole piece close to soldering temperture and only at the right moment concentrate your flame towards the joint. Always heat the larger piece first and allow the heat to dissapate to a smaller piece. The snipets of solder do allow you not to have to heat as much and also regulate the amount of solder used. Also remember that the solder will flow in the direction of your heat source. If it is a straight joint that I am soldering, I like to concetrate the flame longitunally with the joint. I also like to, if at all possible, heat from the underside by setting up my piece on a wire screen and raise it with pieces of firebrick. This way the solder gets pulled thru the joint. I will have to disagree with Arthur, sorry :-). Never use ordinary brick or any form of concrete to solder or weld on. Much too dangerous! These materials will pop and send shards flying with heat! Only use refractory type materials. Ah! Pretty soon Steve you will be so good you will be soldering gold prongs on diamond jewelry! Bob
Re: Hi Ho Silver (Brazing)!
Glad that you were successful Steve. You will find that copper is a little harder to get up to temp than other metals. Creating an enviroment by surronding your piece with firebrick or other refractory material helps holding the heat in. Also cutting your solder into small snipets, say a 1/16 long and applying several of them with a flux coated brush around the joint allows the solder to melt quicker. Capillary action will cause it to flow around your joint. It is so satisfying to watch it happen! Bob
Re: HOAX, was Re: ?virus
Walt, Just reload your windows disk into your computer Bob
Re: HOAX, was Re: ?virus
In a message dated 11/10/02 9:25:05 AM Pacific Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: Or buy an iMac! Oh! You Mac people are so pompous:-) I will someday, all my friends who are into serious graphics use them. Bob
Re: HOAX, was Re: ?virus
In a message dated 11/10/02 12:20:47 PM Pacific Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: Bob, Oh what a great debate you and Geoff have started, Mac vs. PC. But as this is a live steam listserv, so we should be arguing that Roundhouse is better than Accucraft not that a PC is far superior to a Mac, even though it is!!! ; ) My Best, Chuck Well, it did shake the grains of sand out of all of our eyes and wakened the list! PC v Mac? I think that it all depends what you start with. Right now I am just glad that I have something that puts me here no matter what it is. BUT, if I have any extra cash, I think I still will spend it on either a Roundhouse or an Accucraft. I think both makers are doing an excellent job and you get your moneys worth with each respectively. Bob
Roundhouse Jet hole size
Anybody have any idea what size the #5 and #6 jets are? Bob
Re: scale autos
In a message dated 10/23/02 4:35:11 PM Pacific Daylight Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: I think that female qualified as a legitimate bitch. Two years plus ago; my ex bragged to everybody that it took five truck loads to take all my workshop stuff to the dump. Were they sisters? Bob
Re: Track Help for Ferdinand
Personnally, when I ran electric, I never had any problem with aluminum rail. I did have to clean, and I used orange cleaner, but it worked fine. Aluminum is a better conductor than any other metal. Bob
Re: Track Help for Ferdinand
In a message dated 10/10/02 3:22:22 PM Pacific Daylight Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: Aluminum is NOT the best conductor! Here is a link to George Schreyer's page on the comparison of different track materials: http://girr.ayanamichan.com/girr/tips/tips4/track_tips.html#materials Under the column Electrical Resistivity with respects to Brass you can see the comparison. Bob
