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Date: Fri, 25 Feb 2005 00:37:59 -0600
From: "Arthur S. Cohen" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: Multiple recipients of sslivesteam 
Subject: Re: Split Rivets

Hello Henner,

My experience in silver soldering, lead soldering, or brazing pieces 
together is that the pieces should not move out of position with respect to 
one another while being soldered together.  What really holds the pieces, 
the finished work, together is the solder, not the screws or rivets.  Any 
screw or rivet that will wet with the soldering agent will work and not 
leave a weak spot on the two joined pieces.  All bronze is a copper alloy so 
I wonder if the  term "copper bronze" is correct.

Arthur--Mexico City
From: "Henner Meinhold"
Subject: Split Rivets


Hi,
when silver soldering more complicated assemblies like "real" locomotive
boilers the parts need to be temporarily held together. 
 

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Date: Thu, 10 Feb 2005 02:08:59 -0600
From: "Arthur S.Cohen" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: Multiple recipients of sslivesteam 
Subject: Re: BAGRS Project Loco

I'll tell you what axle boxes are all about.  My father told me about 65 
years ago.  He was in the engineer corps in the U.S. army and stationed in 
France during the first world war.  He worked as a maintenance mechanic (oil 
gun) in the RR yards in France during the war.   He told me that the Germans 
would infiltrate France during the nights and fill the AXLE BOXES of some of 
the cars with sand.  The axles were mounted on halves of split bronze 
bushing in the boxes.  The boxes were filled with cotton waste and then they 
were filled with oil.  The wick action of the cotton would wet the lower 
half of the axle and lubricate the contact area where the bushing rested on 
the axle as it rotated  The Germans would pull out the cotton waste before 
filling the box with sand.  So the lower part of the axle was in contact 
with oily sand that would lift up to the bronze bushing and this would cause 
a break down of lubrication causing the axle and box to even get red hot and 
even catch on fire.  His job was to go out with a big bucket of water and 
with a small hose arrange a siphon of water to the hot box (don't get 
excited fellows) to keep things cool while the car was slowly pulled back to 
the shop for repair.  Today an axle box would probably be where the roller 
bearing are mounted that the axle runs on.  It is not a box anymore, its a 
bearing support, part of the truck.
Arthur--Mexico City



- Original Message - 
From: "mdenning" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Multiple recipients of sslivesteam" 
Sent: Tuesday, February 08, 2005 7:04 PM
Subject: Re: BAGRS Project Loco


> What is used for the axleboxes on the BAGRS ??
> Thanks
> Michael
>
> - Original Message - 
> From: "Michael Martin" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: "Multiple recipients of sslivesteam" 
> Sent: Tuesday, February 08, 2005 1:02 AM
> Subject: RE: BAGRS Project Loco
>
>
>> Doug,
>>
>> Check out: http://www.panyo.com/bpe/drive.htm  for drivetrain info,
>>
>> and:  http://www.panyo.com/bpe/photos.htm  for overall views,
>>
>> and finally:  http://www.panyo.com/cad/  for the drawings.
>>
>> Mike
>>
>> -Original Message-
>> From: sslivesteam@colegroup.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
>> Behalf Of DougK
>> Sent: Sunday, February 06, 2005 10:23 AM
>> To: Multiple recipients of sslivesteam
>> Subject: BAGRS Project Loco
>>
>>
>> Does anyone have photos, plans, instructions, or parts list for the BAGRS
>> project loco from several years ago?
>> Thanks,
>> Doug
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
> 

 

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Date: Wed, 09 Feb 2005 19:46:51 -0600
From: "Arthur S.Cohen" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: Multiple recipients of sslivesteam 
Subject: Re: Off Topic

Royce,

To me WD-10 is only a very light viscosity oil without any additives.  More 
like an SAE 5 oil if such a thing exists.  The adhesives that are affected 
by this oil are soluble in mineral oil.  Then there's the "blowing" action 
of the oil that gets the oil under the tape to wet the adhesive and begin to 
dissolve the adhesive.  There are many types or formulas of adhesives.  Not 
all are soluble with mineral oils.

Arthur--Mexico City


>
> Does anybody out there know what's in WD-40 ?   royce
>
>>
>
> 

 

(No subject)

[Arthur S.Cohen]

Hey,  the Live Steam Message Board is back.
 

Re: (No subject)

[Bert & Edmunda]

Hi Arthur,

I'll see what we can find for you.

Bert


-
Bert &  Edmunda
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
 

(No subject)

[Arthur S.Cohen]

Greetings from Mexico,

I purchased a Beck Kessel Anna locomotive while attending the DH convention
and no instructions were with it.  The engine was made in Germany and it
looks too be in excellent condition.  Can anyone out there tell something
about this engine or can supply me with a copy of its instruction booklet?
Arthur---Mexico city

 

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Date: Thu, 23 Dec 2004 19:48:04 -0600
From: "Arthur S.Cohen" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: Multiple recipients of sslivesteam 
Subject: Re: painting brass


To Joe Betsko,

Your question about if brass will melt at 250º F.   The lowest grade of
brass will melt at 1,616º F and there is no place on the outside of a full
size or miniature locomotive that even gets close to that temperature.  So
don't worry.

Arthur--Mexico City


 

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Date: Thu, 23 Dec 2004 18:52:03 -0600
From: "Arthur S.Cohen" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: Multiple recipients of sslivesteam 
Subject: Re: painting brass


- Original Message - 
From: "Joe Betsko" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Multiple recipients of sslivesteam" 
Sent: Thursday, December 23, 2004 4:17 PM
Subject: painting brass


> Hello,
> 
> In looking through the archives, I found this very informative post:  
> http://www.mail-archive.com/sslivesteam@colegroup.com/msg06877.html
> 
> In the "just making sure department," we are going to paint the Aster 
> Lion's boiler cladding a gloss brown color.  The cladding is brass and 
> quite thin.  Should the thin brass sheet stand up to the 250 degree 
> heat?
> 
> Thanks,
> Joe
>  
> 
 

Re: (No subject)

[Dave Hottmann]

Hello Aurthur,
Clark Lord is having his steam up Oct 22-24. Contact him at 
[EMAIL PROTECTED]

Dave
- Original Message - 
From: "Arthur S. Cohen" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Multiple recipients of sslivesteam" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Sunday, October 03, 2004 10:54 PM
Subject: (No subject)


I'm itching to go to Las Vagas.  When is the steam-up? Where is the
steam-up?
Arthur--Mexico City

Re: (No subject)

[mdenning]

I don't know about Las Vegas but if you can get to Visalia, CA try 

http://www.visalia.org/event_2nd_men_metal_machines.htm


- Original Message - 
From: "Arthur S. Cohen" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Multiple recipients of sslivesteam" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Monday, October 04, 2004 12:54 AM
Subject: (No subject)


> I'm itching to go to Las Vagas.  When is the steam-up? Where is the
> steam-up?
> 
> Arthur--Mexico City
>  

(No subject)

[Arthur S. Cohen]

I'm itching to go to Las Vagas.  When is the steam-up? Where is the
steam-up?

Arthur--Mexico City
 

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Date: Sun, 03 Oct 2004 12:54:41 -0700
From: Anthony Dixon <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: Multiple recipients of sslivesteam <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: New steamer

Hi Geoff,
 Although living in Livermore, 90+ miles from Santa Rosa. I am working 
on a project at a company in Petaluma for 3-4 days week, which is only 
about 10-12 miles from Santa Rosa. I could call on David and arrange to 
meet one afternoon/evening.
 Does he have a track to run on locally?. Mine is a little beat up as I 
have to work!, and not runnable at this time.
 Would be happy to help and relax for an hour or so.
 Regards,
 Tony D.

 At 07:12 PM 10/1/04 -0700, Geoff Spenceley wrote:
>Ladies and Gentlemen of the Live steam world,
>
>I have been contacted by a gentleman in Santa Rosa ( a fellow ex Brit) who
>has just acquired an Aster BR Flying Scotsman and he has been referred to
>me by Jim Pitts as a possible assist for his first steaming. However, I
>live about 200 miles north of Santa Rosa--so is there any steamer close by
>to Santa Rosa who could have fun with him on the first steaming of this
>lovely loco. He talks funny like me but is also charming like me. OK. OK-
>I'll say no more!
>
>Name:   David Fry  tel.  707-539-3714.
>
>Thankyou steamers, please let me know.
>
>Geoff.
>
>
 

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Date: Sun, 06 Jun 2004 20:46:46 -0700
From: Anthony Dixon <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: Multiple recipients of sslivesteam <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Paso Robles Track

Gentlemen,
To everyone who responded with input replying to my work party request 
e-mail for assistance this coming weekend, which I inadvertently sent out 
on the wrong web site. You are all invited to assist. I am sure your ideas 
for track re-fit, trailer racks, material resources  etc. can all be 
incorporated PDQ with all your help, blood, sweat and tears.
FYI. We are in the Bay Area, we can feed you and fuel you, but travel 
is under your own steam and ticket!.
Locals are invited also!.
Thanks in anticipation of your help!.
Tony D.

P.S. What a great way to advertise the Sacremento Steamup.


At 10:00 AM 6/5/04 -0700, Gary wrote:
>Our club had to scrap our portable aluminum track system because of
>transportation damage that always occurred to track. I noticed, with envy,
>the Portland O Gaugers club uses a trailer with racks to prevent modules
>from contacting each other.  Does the Paso Robles Track have a
>transportation system that minimizes damage?
>Steaming & Sparking over Terror Trestle in Eugene, Oregon ~ Gary
>http://www.angelfire.com/or/trainguy
>http://community.webshots.com/user/raltzenthor
>
>| Gentlemen,
>|  Heads Up Work Party assistance required.
>|  Phase 3 for reworking the Paso Robles Track to running condition is
>| lifting, adjusting and aligning all the section track ends, replacing some
>| kinked rails, fitting rail joiners, replacing end section ties etc. This
>is
>| not a job which can wait till Wednesday at McClennan.
>|  Talking to Tom King this pm, we agreed to schedule this for next
>| Saturday June 12th. Subject to Gary receiving the balance of rail joiners
>| early next week.(Monday).
>|  We also need to check the balance of the loaded trailer and may need
>| to re-arrange some of the load layout.
>|  Please advise availability and intentions to assist.
>|  Thank You,
>|  Regards,
>|  Tony D.
>
 

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Date: Fri, 21 May 2004 12:16:53 -0700
From: Anthony Dixon <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: Multiple recipients of sslivesteam <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re:

Hi Jim,
   No shortage of LMS coaches. Already have rake of 10.
   Courtesy of a time share with Mr. McDavid via David Leech!. They look 
great behind my Duchess.
   For the price of a pint, I think we can come too an arrangement with 
Geoff at Sacremento.
   Tony D.

At 05:15 PM 5/18/04 +0800, Alison and Jim Gregg. wrote:
>Re Duchess - I think he will also need a full set of maroon LMS coaches to 
>go with it.
>
>Mallards - (aka Ducks Rapidly)
>
>Jim Gregg.
>
>At 09:23 PM 5/17/04 -0700, you wrote:
>>Hi Geoff,
>>Just re-read your reply. I thought you said the A3 had a full set of 
>> 11 leaks, but then saw the "T". Could not see you running anything with leaks.
>> All you need now is an Aster Duchess. You placed your order yet?.
>> Drooling from a distance,
>> Tony D.
 

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Date: Fri, 14 May 2004 17:13:04 -0700
From: Anthony Dixon <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: Multiple recipients of sslivesteam <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Head lights on British engines

Hi Geoff, Paul,
 Additional complications to the lamp arrangements are that the 
Southern Railway,s  engines ran a different lamp position coding system 
than the other regions, particularly on the suburban lines. Lamp 
arrangements were not standardised until the LMS, LNER, GWR and SR were 
nationalised under BR (British Railways) in the 50s. Reference Ian Allen 
British Railway Locomotives Locospotters yearbooks.
No matter, all the lamps were primarily dim manually lit oil lamps and 
not the searchlights of the USA, South African or Indian railways etc.
Incidentally, I have a photograph of a British built American design 
Mikado sitting in Nottingham Victoria station complete with the USA type 
centrally mounted headlamp, taken while it was on its way to the London 
Docks for export to the US.
Fortuneately small scale live steamers still have some poetic licence 
left to suit the individual, and as yet do not have to be "politically 
correct". So suggest you build em as you like em and enjoy.
Regards,
 Tony D.

At 01:55 PM 5/14/04 -0700, Geoff Spenceley wrote:
>  Paul,
>
>Ref Signal lamps on Brit locos.
>
>Depends what the loco is doing: There are many variations of headlamp
>codes, It's complicated. I have a list I can snail mail  it to you or try
>and scan it. Or,  if you tell me what duties the tank is going to perform I
>can probably pick out the closest lamp arrangement for you. For example a
>Freight , mineral or ballast train stopping at intermediate stations has
>one lamp above the right buffer (looking from the cab). That might suit
>you--only one lamp to lose too! Personally, I identify all my locos as
>express passenger, no matter what they do, that way I don't get anymore
>befuddled than I already am and these colonists don't know a lamp from a
>buffer anyway--except Keith Taylor and Harry Wade--and Walt Gray!!
>
>Who am I to know! My source is from a  G1MRA publication some years ago--as
>I recall.
>
>Geoff
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>- Original Message -
> >From: "Walt Gray" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> >> Absolutely.  English locomotives did not have headlights.  They
> >carried
> >> various combinations of signal lamps on the front of the loco to
> >> indicate the class of the train i.e. express passenger, stopping goods
> >> (freight) etc.
> >>
> >Hi Walt,
> >Of course, like everything else, you can never say that is the case
> >100%. There are exceptions, (although probably not on a tank locomotive)
> >but in a very few specific cases, locomotives like the LMS Royal Scot or
> >the Great Western Railways King George V, these locomotives were brought
> >over to the USA to operate on American railways, where they were
> >required to have headlights, bells and whistles to operate on Class 1
> >common carrier main lines. At least the GWR King George V continued to
> >utilize that gear after it's return to Britain as memento of it's trip
> >across the Atlantic.
> >And, many British built locomotives were sold and used in South Africa,
> >South America, Cuba and India, where they would also have been equipped
> >with headlights as those countries do not have totally fenced off rights
> >of way. So, yes, in "general" it is correct to say that British
> >locomotives, at least in Britain, were not equipped with headlights, you
> >cannot say that it is absolutely incorrect for any British locomotive to
> >ever have a headlight.
> >Keith TaylorJefferson, Maine
> >
> >
>
>
>
 

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Date: Sat, 10 Apr 2004 10:16:57 +0900
From: Jun  Kitsukawa <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: Multiple recipients of sslivesteam <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Jun's Messages

Dear Bede,
Thank you for your advice.
I had been knowing existence of JMRC for some time.Since it took 30 minutes
per hour by train to Ueno where$B!!(Jthe regular meeting is held from Fujisawa
in which I live, it was not able to participate easily.However, thanks to
your advice, I determined participating in the meeting of JMRC.


Jun  Kitsukawa
$B(J
4-10-15  KugenumaSakuragaoka
Fujisawa, Kanagawa
251-0027 JAPAN

mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
hp: http://locomotive999.hp.infoseek.co.jp/



Bede McCormack04.4.10 4:45 [EMAIL PROTECTED]

> Hi Jun and all,
> 
> I lived in Japan for many years and used to belong to JMRC, the Japan Model
> Railway Club in Tokyo, which has been in existence since 1934, and is only
> on it's third president!  Do you know this club Jun?  Its members have a
> huge range of  interests, from "O" gauge tinplate live steam to 7.5" gauge
> main line engines, ships, stationary engines, electronics, etc.
> 
> They meet every second  Sunday of the month in the National Transportation
> Museum's meeting room on the third floor (Koutsu Hakubutsu-kan no sankai no
> kaigishitsu) in Ueno.  They are very friendly and knowledgable and I know
> would welcome you.  At their monthly meetings they bring items they've been
> working, pictures, magazines, iro iro!  I believe the current president is
> Mr. Uematsu who took over when Seiichi Watanabe passed on several years ago.
> 
> Watanabe-sensei (as he was known) was a remarkable man in many ways, one
> being the live steam engines he built.  His first, built in the late 40s,
> was a 5" gauge Great Northern (UK) atlantic, called the "Flying Jiro" after
> his brother who was killed in WWII.   I believe this engine is now in the
> National Transportation Museum's collection.   In later years he made a
> stunningly beautiful range of British gauge 1 steamers, really built to
> museum standards.  His last engine was a Great Eastern 4-6-0,  which I got
> the correct paint for on a visit to the UK.  He was able to finish and steam
> it shortly before he died.
> 
> Anyway, if you want some encouragement, you can stop by and introduce
> yourself, mention my name and say hello to Uematsu-san, Inoue, Sato, Ohdo,
> Tanabe, and the rest, they'll remember me.
> 
> Good luck with your plans.
> Regards,
> Bede McCormack, Brooklyn, NY, USA
> 
>> From: Geoff Spenceley <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Reply-To:
>> [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>> Date: Fri, 9 Apr 2004 09:29:08 -0700 To: Multiple recipients of sslivesteam
>> <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: Jun's Messages
>> 
>> Well said Mike,
>> 
>> Geoff.
>> 
>> Jun  Kitsukawa, thankyou for your E Mail too. You are most welcome to our
>> group.
>> 
>> Geoff.
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> I toowith all of us Please accept the following as advise from one whom
>> spends
>> 40% of his time in Asia. When Jun asks a question answer in simple english
>> sentences, and avoid slang expressions at all cost unless you define the
>> slang
>> word.  As we become more familiar with Jun and he with us we can expand our
>> vocabulary. As Dave stated in an earlier message his English is probably
>> better that the majority of us for Japanese.
>> 
>>> 
>>> Kitsukawa-san, welcome to the group and much success in building your
>>> engine.
>>> It is more that I would attempt. Would you prefer we address you by your
>>> family name or may we use your given name?
>>> 
>>> Mike
>>> 
>>> --- Dave Cole <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: At 10:39 AM -0500 4/8/04, Mike Eorgoff
>>> wrote: Why do Jun  Kitsukawa's messages always come in on an alternate form
>>> from normal list message traffic?
>>> 
> Mike Eorgoff
> 
> 
 
 short answer: because he's using an email client and system set up for the
 japanese language.
 
 long answer is available by emailing me directly.
 
 $B%((Jdmc
 
 --
 
>>> ^^^ Dave Cole
>>> Gen'l Sup't:  Grand Teton & Everglades Steam Excursion Co. Pacifica, Calif.
>>> USA   List Mom: sslivesteam, the
>>> list of small-scale live steamers 
>>> 
 ATTEND THE NATIONAL SUMMER STEAMUP IN SACRAMENTO, JULY 22-25, 2004 For more
 information, visit the

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Date: Fri, 09 Apr 2004 23:32:42 +0900
From: Jun  Kitsukawa <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: Multiple recipients of sslivesteam <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Jun's Messages

Dear Mike,
Does it seem that I participated in this mailing list is welcomed although I
cannot understand your message enough?
Mike,I like being called not by the family name but by the given name.



Jun  Kitsukawa
$B(J
  JAPAN

mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
hp: http://locomotive999.hp.infoseek.co.jp/



M Paterson04.4.9 0:29 [EMAIL PROTECTED]

> Please accept the following as advise from one whom
> spends 40% of his time in Asia. When Jun asks a
> question answer in simple english sentences, and avoid
> slang expressions at all cost unless you define the
> slang word.  As we become more familiar with Jun and
> he with us we can expand our vocabulary. As Dave
> stated in an earlier message his English is probably
> better that the majority of us for Japanese.
> 
> 
> Kitsukawa-san, welcome to the group and much success
> in building your engine. It is more that I would
> attempt. Would you prefer we address you by your
> family name or may we use your given name?
> 
> Mike
> 
> --- Dave Cole <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>> At 10:39 AM -0500 4/8/04, Mike Eorgoff wrote:
>>> Why do Jun  Kitsukawa's messages always come in on
>> an alternate form from
>>> normal list message traffic?
>>> 
>>> Mike Eorgoff
>>> 
>>> 
>> 
>> short answer: because he's using an email client and
>> system set up 
>> for the japanese language.
>> 
>> long answer is available by emailing me directly.
>> 
>> \dmc
>> 
>> -- 
>> 
> ^^^
>> Dave Cole
>> Gen'l Sup't:  Grand Teton & Everglades Steam
>> Excursion Co.
>> Pacifica, Calif. USA
>>  
>> List Mom: sslivesteam, the list of small-scale
>> live steamers
>> 
>> 
>> ATTEND THE NATIONAL SUMMER STEAMUP IN SACRAMENTO,
>> JULY 22-25, 2004
>> For more information, visit the web site at
>> 
>> 
>> 
> ^^^
> 
> 
> 
> __
> Do you Yahoo!?
> Yahoo! Small Business $15K Web Design Giveaway
> http://promotions.yahoo.com/design_giveaway/ 
 

[no subject]

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Date: Thu, 08 Apr 2004 11:03:11 +0900
From: Jun  Kitsukawa <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: Multiple recipients of sslivesteam <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: International flavor

Hi Dave,
Your encouragement impressed me very much.Since English is not its favorite,
I am very worried about the thing which I want to say in whether it has got
across to you correctly.However, since the interest over live steaming is
deep, courage can be shaken and extracted and I can post some messages.

Davesanmo,gambatte kudasaine!!!


Jun  Kitsukawa
$B(J
   JAPAN

mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
hp: http://locomotive999.hp.infoseek.co.jp/





Dave Orwig04.4.2 4:48 [EMAIL PROTECTED]

> I really appreciate the world wide appeal of this hobby and of this list. I,
> for one, am glad to see Jun posting to this list. As a former serviceman who
> lived in Japan, I know the difficulties in pursuing a hobby when there is a
> large communication gap.
> 
> Beyond this small observation, I don't have much to offer to the list. I did
> get my mamod re-gauged and running properly without spending more than 10
> dollars on it. I do, however have much to gain by being subscribed to this
> list. A friend wants to sell me his Frank S, so I think I'll need to but the
> butane tank inside the side tank.
> 
> I look forward to reading all the messages posted, thanks everybody, for
> keeping my head in the clouds (clouds of steam).
> 
> Junsan , gambatte kudasai!
> 
> Dave Orwig
> 
 

[no subject]

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Date: Mon, 05 Apr 2004 09:17:39 +0900
From: Jun  Kitsukawa <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: Multiple recipients of sslivesteam <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: condensate

What is Johnson bar?


Jun  Kitsukawa
mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
hp: http://locomotive999.hp.infoseek.co.jp/


paul gamlin04.4.5 1:33 [EMAIL PROTECTED]

> Sounds like A ruby, Moving the  johnson bar back and forth is part of the
> solution . If this just started
> and it has been running fine up til now another to look at is a dirty burner
> or possable over filling of the boiler .
> 
> 
> Paul
> 
 

[no subject]

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Date: Thu, 01 Apr 2004 23:53:01 +0900
From: Jun  Kitsukawa <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: Multiple recipients of sslivesteam <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Narrow Gauge 2-4-4-2 Mallet

Dear Vance,
I appreciate useful and precious advice.Driving wheels are purchased from
Sulphur Springs Steam Models and they will be processed with my lathe.

regards

Jun  Kitsukawa
$B(J
4-10-15  KugenumaSakuragaoka
Fujisawa, Kanagawa
251-0027 JAPAN

mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
hp: http://locomotive999.hp.infoseek.co.jp/


Vance Bass04.4.1 9:56 [EMAIL PROTECTED]

> Hi, Jun,
> 
> You can buy these directly from Lionel's web site
> . I do not
> know 
> which wheels Les Knoll used on his 2-4-4-2, so I can't tell you how to find
> the exact 
> part. But the Lionel wheels have solid backs, not open spokes, and the tire
> and flange 
> dimensions are not what we usually use for gauge 1 models.
> 
> But I have looked at your web site and I don't think this is the best answer
> for you, in 
> any case. Since I see you have a lathe, you should not have a problem making
> drivers 
> from iron castings. I would suggest that you look at the iron wheel castings
> offered by 
> Sulphur Springs Steam Models.  Choose "Locomotive
> Parts" at the bottom of the page, then choose "Wheel Castings" from the menu
> on the 
> left.  (There are also many suppliers in the UK, but I am not as familiar with
> ordering on 
> the web from them.) The owners of Sulphur Springs are both small-scale live
> steam 
> hobbyists and are very helpful.
> 
> For example, here's a casting for a driver of 42.5mm diameter:
>  This is a narrow-gauge
> wheel, 
> so most appropriate for your model.  Here's another of 43mm diamter, without a
> counterweight:  This one is
> for 
> standard gauge models (thus, 1:32 scale), so it has more spokes and thinner
> spokes. 
> But it would fit your requirements otherwise. I think that either of these
> would work well 
> on the model you have in mind. For this locomotive, I think that larger
> drivers would be 
> appropriate, too, for example this one (51mm diameter):
> 
> 
> I think you are already familiar with the G1MRA wheel standards, but if not
> here is a link 
> to the standards sheet, that will tell you the angles and dimensions you need
> to make 
> the tire and flange on your lathe:.
> 
> Good luck with your project!
> 
> regards,
> -vance-
> 
> Vance Bass   
> Albuquerque, New Mexico, USA
> Small-scale live steam resources: http://www.nmia.com/~vrbass
> 
> 
 

[no subject]

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Date: Thu, 01 Apr 2004 00:56:08 +0900
From: Jun  Kitsukawa <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: Multiple recipients of sslivesteam <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Narrow Gauge 2-4-4-2 Mallet

Dear Vance,
Please let me know how to get Lionel toy train wheels. I am looking for
driving wheel which is spoked.Its diameter is approximately 40mm.



Jun  Kitsukawa
$B(J
4-10-15  KugenumaSakuragaoka
Fujisawa, Kanagawa
251-0027 JAPAN

mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
hp: http://locomotive999.hp.infoseek.co.jp/





Vance Bass04.3.30 4:10 [EMAIL PROTECTED]

> Hi, Jun,
> 
> I hope I can answer some of your questions.
> 
>> 1  Please let me know in full detail how to couple the first
>> chassis with the second chassis.
> 
> The front chassis of a Mallet is connected to the boiler and main frame by
> means of a 
> universal joint (one that can move in the horizontal plane as well as the
> vertical plane). 
> This coupling is at the rear of the front chassis (right in front of the rear
> cylinders). I 
> don't know the details of the one Les Knoll made, but you want to make a
> connector 
> that will allow the chassis to move up and down as well as side to side, about
> a pivot 
> point under the middle of the boiler.
> 
>> 2  Please let me know in full detail how to mount 1/16" brass rod
>> to the small crank on the weight shaft.
> 
> I think silver soldering is what Les used.
> 
>> 3 Please provide me with frame drawing of the chassis to get the
>> exact relationships of mounting holes for axles and valve gear.
> 
> This is very sensitive. Your axles must be spaced exactly the same as the
> holes in the 
> connecting rods or the locomotive will not run. Les used two Roundhouse
> chassis kits 
> and reversed them as described in his article to get the wheels outside the
> frames. By 
> doing so, he was certain that all the critical distances were exactly right. I
> suggest that 
> you use the same method, which will save you a LOT of work.
> 
> Les used wheels from a Lionel toy train for his conversion. I do not recall
> whether the 
> throw was exactly the same as on the original Roundhouse cranks; he may have
> needed to drill new holes in them for the crankpins.
> 
> I hope this has been some help to you. Good luck on your project! I think we
> would all 
> be interested in seeing photos or reading a description of your locos. Can you
> give us a 
> short report?
> 
> 
> -vance-
> 
> Be careful how you live; it is the only sermon that you preach.
> William Ellery Channing
> 
> 
 

[no subject]

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Date: Tue, 30 Mar 2004 23:16:04 +0900
From: Jun  Kitsukawa <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: Multiple recipients of sslivesteam <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: Narrow Gauge 2-4-4-2 Mallet

Hi Vance,
Thank you so much for your help. And I have a question.Is the boiler mounted
the front chassis?


Jun  Kitsukawa
mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
hp: http://locomotive999.hp.infoseek.co.jp/



 
Vance Bass04.3.30 4:10 [EMAIL PROTECTED]

> Hi, Jun,
> 
> I hope I can answer some of your questions.
> 
>> 1  Please let me know in full detail how to couple the first
>> chassis with the second chassis.
> 
> The front chassis of a Mallet is connected to the boiler and main frame by
> means of a 
> universal joint (one that can move in the horizontal plane as well as the
> vertical plane). 
> This coupling is at the rear of the front chassis (right in front of the rear
> cylinders). I 
> don't know the details of the one Les Knoll made, but you want to make a
> connector 
> that will allow the chassis to move up and down as well as side to side, about
> a pivot 
> point under the middle of the boiler.
> 
>> 2  Please let me know in full detail how to mount 1/16" brass rod
>> to the small crank on the weight shaft.
> 
> I think silver soldering is what Les used.
> 
>> 3 Please provide me with frame drawing of the chassis to get the
>> exact relationships of mounting holes for axles and valve gear.
> 
> This is very sensitive. Your axles must be spaced exactly the same as the
> holes in the 
> connecting rods or the locomotive will not run. Les used two Roundhouse
> chassis kits 
> and reversed them as described in his article to get the wheels outside the
> frames. By 
> doing so, he was certain that all the critical distances were exactly right. I
> suggest that 
> you use the same method, which will save you a LOT of work.
> 
> Les used wheels from a Lionel toy train for his conversion. I do not recall
> whether the 
> throw was exactly the same as on the original Roundhouse cranks; he may have
> needed to drill new holes in them for the crankpins.
> 
> I hope this has been some help to you. Good luck on your project! I think we
> would all 
> be interested in seeing photos or reading a description of your locos. Can you
> give us a 
> short report?
> 
> 
> -vance-
> 
> Be careful how you live; it is the only sermon that you preach.
> William Ellery Channing
> 
> 
 

(No subject)

[Mike Eorgoff]

4th ANNUAL MIDWEST SMALL SCALE STEAMUP

7,8,9 May, 2004
St. Peters (St. Louis) Missouri. Holiday Inn Select

We have two portable tracks for you to enjoy. One
track has minimum 10ft radius curves, two
tracks(45mm), and storage sidings. The other track is
dual gauge, 32mm & 45mm, with a 6' 3" minimum radius. 
This year there will be available special handling for
females accompanying since it is (un)fortunately also
mother's day weekend.  

Information:
Web: www.geocities.com/teaton63376/
Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Phone: Mike Eorgoff 630-830-5885 (Before 9 PM Chicago
time)
St. Peters (St. Louis) Missouri. Holiday Inn Select, 
800-767-3837 or 636-928-1500 for rooms.

Mike Eorgoff
 

Re: (No subject)

[Geoff Spenceley]

Sir Art,

>I know nothing! What is a 'bus' anyway? <

Aren't you a clever fellow  A bus is what is going to hit you if I ever
get back to London to drive one! And--the fly wheel will be 12 ft in dia.
and 20 tons! Nuclear powered too,  a la Don Arthur's design. No brakes,
either!

Geoff.
>
>>Perhaps Sir Art can cast some light on the matter of the fly
>> wheels on "General" busses .
>
>I know nothing! What is a 'bus' anyway?
>
>Sir Art
>
>> >  If my memeory is working I think you are from the other side of the
>> >drink.  Then you much have seen those London passenger busses that used
>> >a big 48" or 60" diameter 7 ton fly wheel mounted on a vertical shaft
>> >under the bus and it was/is used for its kinetic energy storage
>> >capacity.  Through an elaborate transmission slowing down would speed up
>> >the fly wheel and the wheel's kinetic energy would then help speed up
>> >the bus.  The bus had a small diesel engine that kept the wheel rotating
>> >and also supplied power to the driving wheels on start up.  There's
>> >nothing new in the world.
>> >
>
>


 

Re: (No subject)

[mart.towers]

- Original Message - 
From: "Geoff Spenceley" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Multiple recipients of sslivesteam" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Saturday, February 28, 2004 9:14 PM
Subject: Re: (No subject)


>Perhaps Sir Art can cast some light on the matter of the fly
> wheels on "General" busses .

I know nothing! What is a 'bus' anyway?

Sir Art

> >  If my memeory is working I think you are from the other side of the
> >drink.  Then you much have seen those London passenger busses that used
> >a big 48" or 60" diameter 7 ton fly wheel mounted on a vertical shaft
> >under the bus and it was/is used for its kinetic energy storage
> >capacity.  Through an elaborate transmission slowing down would speed up
> >the fly wheel and the wheel's kinetic energy would then help speed up
> >the bus.  The bus had a small diesel engine that kept the wheel rotating
> >and also supplied power to the driving wheels on start up.  There's
> >nothing new in the world.
> >
 
 

Re: (No subject)

[Geoff Spenceley]

 Don Arthur,

Reference your memory and mine-- and mine is very poor! I don't recall
those "General" busses with the flywheels but it sounds like Brit
ingenuity. I  could never afford a bus so biked behind them to catch the
vacuum and speed along at 40mph when they  flywheeled into the country side
-really! Perhaps Sir Art can cast some light on the matter of the fly
wheels on "General" busses .

I note Mr Cole (no title yet, but I'm working on it) made a comment to the
list as to the availability  of the  plutonium and 2 cc's of heavy water
needed for the reactor  which was fairly acquired from your Lybian friends;
he wrote:>>just another advantage to living in mexico city ... access
to libyan  "friends" ... ;-) ...<<.

Arthur, good job! I think, you actually have such a device powered  by
radio-active methane gathered from the  cow pastures  in the Bay area or
Sacramento!  Anyway, Lybia is on our side now--whatever and  wherever that
is!

Geoff.



 Dear Geoff,
>
>  If my memeory is working I think you are from the other side of the
>drink.  Then you much have seen those London passenger busses that used
>a big 48" or 60" diameter 7 ton fly wheel mounted on a vertical shaft
>under the bus and it was/is used for its kinetic energy storage
>capacity.  Through an elaborate transmission slowing down would speed up
>the fly wheel and the wheel's kinetic energy would then help speed up
>the bus.  The bus had a small diesel engine that kept the wheel rotating
>and also supplied power to the driving wheels on start up.  There's
>nothing new in the world.
>
>  At present I have developing an extremely tiny nuclear reactor that
>fits in the fire box of my Frank S and also a tiny condenser that sits
>on top of the locomotive's chimney that condenses 100% of the vapor.
>With a toggle disc pump this condensate water is then pumped back in the
>boiler.  So far I have gotten a 12 hour non stop run.  The 2 grams of
>plutonium and 2 cc's of heavy water needed for the reactor was fairly
>easy to come by with help on my Libyan friend.  I think this may be the
>future of motivated transportation.
>  Arthur---Mexico City
>
>
>  - Original Message -
>  From: "Geoff Spenceley" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>  To: "Multiple recipients of sslivesteam" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>  Sent: Thursday, February 26, 2004 3:04 PM
>  Subject: Re: (No subject)
>
>


 

Re: (No subject)

[Dave Cole]

At 10:18 PM -0600 2/27/04, Arthur S. Cohen wrote:
  At present I have developing an extremely tiny nuclear reactor that
fits in the fire box of my Frank S and also a tiny condenser that sits
on top of the locomotive's chimney that condenses 100% of the vapor.
With a toggle disc pump this condensate water is then pumped back in the
boiler.  So far I have gotten a 12 hour non stop run.  The 2 grams of
plutonium and 2 cc's of heavy water needed for the reactor was fairly
easy to come by with help on my Libyan friend.  I think this may be the
future of motivated transportation.
fofl.

just another advantage to living in mexico city ... access to libyan 
"friends" ... ;-) ...

\dmc

--
^^^
Dave Cole
Gen'l Sup't:  Grand Teton & Everglades Steam Excursion Co.
  Pacifica, Calif. USA  
List Mom: sslivesteam, the list of small-scale live steamers
  
ATTEND THE NATIONAL SUMMER STEAMUP IN SACRAMENTO, JULY 22-25, 2004
For more information, visit the web site at 
^^^ 

Re: (No subject)

[Arthur S. Cohen]

  Dear Geoff,

  If my memeory is working I think you are from the other side of the
drink.  Then you much have seen those London passenger busses that used
a big 48" or 60" diameter 7 ton fly wheel mounted on a vertical shaft
under the bus and it was/is used for its kinetic energy storage
capacity.  Through an elaborate transmission slowing down would speed up
the fly wheel and the wheel's kinetic energy would then help speed up
the bus.  The bus had a small diesel engine that kept the wheel rotating
and also supplied power to the driving wheels on start up.  There's
nothing new in the world.

  At present I have developing an extremely tiny nuclear reactor that
fits in the fire box of my Frank S and also a tiny condenser that sits
on top of the locomotive's chimney that condenses 100% of the vapor.
With a toggle disc pump this condensate water is then pumped back in the
boiler.  So far I have gotten a 12 hour non stop run.  The 2 grams of
plutonium and 2 cc's of heavy water needed for the reactor was fairly
easy to come by with help on my Libyan friend.  I think this may be the
future of motivated transportation.
  Arthur---Mexico City


  - Original Message -
  From: "Geoff Spenceley" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
  To: "Multiple recipients of sslivesteam" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
  Sent: Thursday, February 26, 2004 3:04 PM
  Subject: Re: (No subject)

 

(No subject)

[Arthur S. Cohen]

Dear Harry,

I have been reading the mail about the momentum car use.  What is the 
reason for this car?  Is it for the kinetic energy stored in the 
system, as if there was a flywheel being turned with (theoretically) 
no friction, or is it for the friction caused between the various 
turning elements, shafts in their bearings used in this system?

If it would be the load, friction, then there are many ways to cause 
friction.  This would cause more steam to be used, more water and 
fuel used to pull the load.  Consequently, the "chuff" and steam out 
of the chimney would be much more noticeable.  If it is 
only momentum, kinetic energy, that you are looking for, this would 
result in causing a load only when starting up and the consequent 
chuff sound and visual steam plume caused by using more steam at that 
time.  Since there are no brakes on our locomotives other than the 
remote controlled reverse, the momentum, kinetic energy, would only 
make the locomotive coast farther when trying to stop it by shutting 
off the steam supply.

It is my opinion that a momentum car is needed to cause a larger 
work load on the engine when you want the engine to labor more.  This 
could be on slower start ups, on small up grades, or on level tracks 
where you want more of a steam plume and the chuff noise.  Real life 
large steam locomotives make the most noise and sent up the biggest 
steam plume when they are working the hardest and that's when they 
are starting up or going up hill.  I think that a momentum car should 
be made with a RC controllable pressure friction brake on its fly 
wheel that can some how be tied together with the throttle when 
wanted.  This way a slow start up can be made with no brake being 
applied to the fly wheel.  The brake would be applied for gentle 
coasting stops with the steam supply feathered or when you want to 
see the steam plume or hear the chuff on level track.  Then if it is 
momentum and controlled braking for he load that's required the 
easiest way to go would be to load a ball bearing wheeled car with 
lead and install some sort of RC controllable braking system on the 
car's wheel.

What do you think?

Arthur---Mexico City 

Re: (No subject)

[Geoff Spenceley]

Dear Don Arthur,

Good thinking! I believe you are right about a brake on the flywheel to
make our models even closer to the prototype. After all, we are trying to
duplicate the real thing--the cars on  a heavy freight  provide the
inertia- the taking up of the coupler slack  makes for a gradual load
increase just as a heavy flywheel on the model would accomplish. However
when the proto starts to slow  there is no slack in the couplers and there
is a tremendous load on the loco which cannot usually be halted--no matter
how the driver works the regulator (throttle) so brakes must be applied on
the cars. In the case of a flywheel--there is basically the same
effect--the flywheel continues to rotate (inertia) and the model will keep
moving--can't stop  quickly, tho with the model,  reversing might be  more
effective than on the prototype   in view of weights involved etc. It would
not be practical to install brakes on  the model  cars, but a brake on the
flywheel would accomplish what we desire.

Why not a steam brake?-- the closing of the the throttle could be designed
so that it would admit steam to a flexible  line that would be fitted to a
simple cylinder  operated brake on the flywheel.  The Aster DB78 had a
rotary throttle that would admit steam to the blower as the throttle was
closed.  Harry can design one for us--wait!--I'm off to the local patent
office! Suppose I'll have to give Arthur a cut!

Geoff.


Dear Harry,
>
>I have been reading the mail about the momentum car use.  What is the
>reason for this car?  Is it for the kinetic energy stored in the
>system, as if there was a flywheel being turned with (theoretically)
>no friction, or is it for the friction caused between the various
>turning elements, shafts in their bearings used in this system?
>
>If it would be the load, friction, then there are many ways to cause
>friction.  This would cause more steam to be used, more water and
>fuel used to pull the load.  Consequently, the "chuff" and steam out
>of the chimney would be much more noticeable.  If it is
>only momentum, kinetic energy, that you are looking for, this would
>result in causing a load only when starting up and the consequent
>chuff sound and visual steam plume caused by using more steam at that
>time.  Since there are no brakes on our locomotives other than the
>remote controlled reverse, the momentum, kinetic energy, would only
>make the locomotive coast farther when trying to stop it by shutting
>off the steam supply.
>
>It is my opinion that a momentum car is needed to cause a larger
>work load on the engine when you want the engine to labor more.  This
>could be on slower start ups, on small up grades, or on level tracks
>where you want more of a steam plume and the chuff noise.  Real life
>large steam locomotives make the most noise and sent up the biggest
>steam plume when they are working the hardest and that's when they
>are starting up or going up hill.  I think that a momentum car should
>be made with a RC controllable pressure friction brake on its fly
>wheel that can some how be tied together with the throttle when
>wanted.  This way a slow start up can be made with no brake being
>applied to the fly wheel.  The brake would be applied for gentle
>coasting stops with the steam supply feathered or when you want to
>see the steam plume or hear the chuff on level track.  Then if it is
>momentum and controlled braking for he load that's required the
>easiest way to go would be to load a ball bearing wheeled car with
>lead and install some sort of RC controllable braking system on the
>car's wheel.
>
>What do you think?
>
>Arthur---Mexico City


 

[no subject]

[postmaster]

])
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Date: Tue, 03 Feb 2004 17:53:08 -0800
From: Anthony Dixon <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: Multiple recipients of sslivesteam <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: RE: GINJ

Hi Steve,
One of the problems I have had with receiving this magazine is that my 
initial 12 month subscription paid for 12 magazines, then  dried up after 
receiving only 6 issues via Atlantic Publications. I followed up with 
Atlantic but did not get any response regarding missing issues etc.
   So I re-ordered and paid for 12 magazines for year 2003 (via Robert of 
Brandbright) when at Sacremento. I received 6 back issues after 5 months 
(in one bulk shipment and nothing since last October.
I agree about the contents but agent customer service is poor to say 
the least.
So if $117 is expensive for 12 issues, what is the cost of 6 issues?!
Tony D.
At 03:04 PM 2/3/04 -0800, Ciambrone, Steve @ OS wrote:
>You guys talk about receiving every issue so it must be pretty good!  What
>is the easiest way to sign up?
>
>Does anyone also know how to get a deal for Garden Rail the subscription is
>65 Pounds and with a $1.80 exchange rate it is $117 USD. Great magazine I
>bought some at the Summer steamup, even built one of the trams, but over a
>hundred USD for a magazine is pretty steep.  I thought the 50 dollar boating
>mags were expensive.
>
>Thanks
>Steve
>
> > -Original Message-
> > From: Gordon Watson [SMTP:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> > Sent: Tuesday, February 03, 2004 1:53 AM
> > To:   Multiple recipients of sslivesteam
> > Subject:  GINJ
> >
> > And it arived here in wildest Victoria[OZtoday ] and its a ripper, thanks
> > Art.
> >
> >Gordon Watson.
> >
 

Re: (No subject)

[Geoff Spenceley]

Thanks Dave,

Now about this cheap sub to Playboy I'm selling --whoops!!

Your costume Dave--??   Old King Cole (Coal?) was a Merry old soul and a
merry old soul was he!

Geoff.



At 9:53 AM -0800 10/31/03, Geoff Spenceley wrote:
>>Don't tell Dave I am mentioning this- (I hope he is out Trick and
>>Treating)-I am advertising my (extra) Aster A3 kit on the SiTG site at a
>>fair price. I already have a built up one.
>
>no, i'm watching every move you make. ;-) ...
>
>btw, the policy isn't that you can't post notes exactly like this
>one; the policy is that if you have a commercial business, you should
>clear any messages that might promote it or its products with me
>before you send it.
>
>and there are many kinds of commercial messages i will approve; i
>just don't want joe's garden trains putting messages on the list
>like, "clearance sale of lgb track! $5 a foot!" or somesuch. it's
>likely i would approve a message such as, "joe's garden trains is
>having a sale. please visit our website to find out more."
>
>and now, back to working on my costume ...
>
>\dmc
>
>
>
>--
>^^^
>Dave Cole
>Gen'l Sup't:  Grand Teton & Everglades Steam Excursion Co.
>   Pacifica, Calif. USA  
>List Mom: sslivesteam, the list of small-scale live steamers
>   
>
>ATTEND THE NATIONAL SUMMER STEAMUP IN SACRAMENTO, JULY 21-25, 2004
>For more information, visit the web site at 
>
>^^^


 

Re: (No subject)

[Harry Wade]

At 09:53 AM 10/31/03 -0800, you wrote:
>P.S  Hoping to hear good news from Bob and Jackie on their home

Geoff,
I hear through the grapevine that as of yesterday their answering
machine was still answering.

Regards,
Harry
 

Re: (No subject)

[Dave Cole]

At 9:53 AM -0800 10/31/03, Geoff Spenceley wrote:
Don't tell Dave I am mentioning this- (I hope he is out Trick and
Treating)-I am advertising my (extra) Aster A3 kit on the SiTG site at a
fair price. I already have a built up one.
no, i'm watching every move you make. ;-) ...

btw, the policy isn't that you can't post notes exactly like this 
one; the policy is that if you have a commercial business, you should 
clear any messages that might promote it or its products with me 
before you send it.

and there are many kinds of commercial messages i will approve; i 
just don't want joe's garden trains putting messages on the list 
like, "clearance sale of lgb track! $5 a foot!" or somesuch. it's 
likely i would approve a message such as, "joe's garden trains is 
having a sale. please visit our website to find out more."

and now, back to working on my costume ...

\dmc



--
^^^
Dave Cole
Gen'l Sup't:  Grand Teton & Everglades Steam Excursion Co.
  Pacifica, Calif. USA  
List Mom: sslivesteam, the list of small-scale live steamers
  
ATTEND THE NATIONAL SUMMER STEAMUP IN SACRAMENTO, JULY 21-25, 2004
For more information, visit the web site at 
^^^ 

(No subject)

[Geoff Spenceley]

One and all,


Don't tell Dave I am mentioning this- (I hope he is out Trick and
Treating)-I am advertising my (extra) Aster A3 kit on the SiTG site at a
fair price. I already have a built up one.

Geoff.

P.S  I heard on TV that some folks are beginning to return to  check their
homes in the Big Bear and Lake Arrowhead area. Hoping to hear good news
from Bob and Jackie on their home

 

[no subject]

[postmaster]

p>
  for <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>; Wed, 15 Oct 2003
 01:28:09 +0900
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 [61.21.163.78])
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Date: Wed, 15 Oct 2003 01:38:24 +0900
From: =?ISO-2022-JP?B?GyRCNUxAbj1jGyhK?= <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: Multiple recipients of sslivesteam <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: grub screw

I am looking for 10BA grubscrew.Please let me know how to get it.



Jun  Kitsukawa 

mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
hp:http://homepage3.nifty.com/locomotive/


 

(No subject)

[Daniel McGrath]

Seems a little redundant, but remarkable none the less.
 



>From: "Gary Broeder" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>(by way of Dave Cole) 
>Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
>To: Multiple recipients of sslivesteam <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>Subject: message 
>Date: Thu, 2 Oct 2003 10:55:54 -0700 
> 
>To those of the list, 
> 
>I have just read a sales insert from Hornby regarding their latest 
>producta HO/OO scale electrically heated live steam A4 ( 
>British 4-6-2). It looks amazing. The electrically heated boiler is 
>in the tender, all the electronics and dual chime whistles are in 
>the loco. Twin cylinders. Claimed running time 20 min. Should be 
>released before Christmas. Requires special transformer. 
> 
>I have read of electrically heated steam many years ago in the 
>larger scales but I think this is a first for HO. 
> 
>Gary B 
 Get McAfee virus scanning and cleaning of incoming attachments.  Get Hotmail Extra Storage!

Re: OT: steamup photography [was: (No subject)]

[Anthony Dixon]

Hi Ferd,
   I tried replying offline to your personnal e mail address, but my 
server cannot find yours as seein "Permenant failure, bad destract in 
system address".
   Could you try sending offline to me instead, and I will try replying 
back again.
   Maybe the Tri-x is polluted with Pixels!.
   Thank you,
   Tony D.

At 03:31 PM 3/7/03 -0500, FBM Studios wrote:
Hi Tony

Nearly all the professional photographers I know (myself included)
use Epson printers. I have both the 1280 and the 2000 printers. Both
produce prints that will challenge and in the 2000 case beat the quality
of any 35mm negative enlarged to 11X14. The one word of caution is
that digital cameras and computers do not make a good image.
It still requires proper photo ability, photoshop knowledge included.
The same applied to the darkroom.
When buying a digital camera always go for the highest megapixel you can 
afford.
There is a difference between a 3 and 6 megapixel camera, and ones
expendable dollar amount is also a trade off.  I use my equipment to make
a living as a commercial photographer so a 15,000$ digital back (camera 
not included)
pays for itself very quickly.  Having shot solely digitally for the last 5 
years I would
not go back to film unless forced.

Back to the printers the 1200 series is 13X19 and the 2000 is archival 13X19
Dollar value the 1200's are great around 500.00US.
Would be happy to answer any questions you have.
cheers Ferd.
www.7-8N2.com



Company Web site: www.FBM-Studios.com

Re: OT: steamup photography [was: (No subject)]

[Peter Jobusch]

FWIW 

For those of you who saw Carol's print of the Diamondhead 2002 group photo 
at Diamondhead 2003 ... the print was done on an Epson Photo Stylus 
1280.  I have to admit to having groused a bit when she went for the larger 
printer ... but when used with appropriate papers and inks the results are 
what many of you saw.  Paper DOES make a difference!

That particular photo was done from film (Nikon glass and a Nikon body, 
probably Fuji's ASA 400 print film) and scanned on a Nikon Coolscan 4000 
film scanner (at 4000 dpi) ... three frames stiched together in Photoshop 
Elements.  You can download various resolutions from our www.jobusch.com 
web site (2003 is out there, too, but the lighting was more challenging).

The other photos of hers seen around the net were shot with her old Kodak 
4800 (3.1 Mp), no longer available.  We handed out CDs Sunday morning at 
Diamondhead to several e- and print editors/publishers, so I can't speak to 
any post-processing any of them may have done, but we use the 
aforementioned Photoshop Elements (the $50 version of Photoshop ... more 
features than the freebie that gets bundled with scanners, etc., ... enough 
function that we have not had to upgrade to the full version).

Our experience with 3.1 Mp images is that one can get a decent 8 * 10 if 
one is using pretty much the full frame, but if you are doing much cropping 
then 8 * 10 is pushing it ... likewise, if one wants a larger print from 3 
Mp, quality will suffer.   We capture the "high quality" jpegs, vice the 
raw (uncompressed) images ... having made some test shots and prints each 
way (the pros seem to prefer keeping the raw data and doing all the 
darkroom work on the computer).

I think as soon as Carol can get something in the 6 Mp range that we can 
use our Nikon glass on at a price point she finds attractive, we will get 
one, but we have been happy enough with the Kodak 4800 that we have not 
felt compelled to be the first kids on the block with a Nikon D1 or some such.

Pete Jobusch

Re: OT: steamup photography [was: (No subject)]

[Dave Cole]

At 11:55 AM -0800 3/7/03, Anthony Dixon wrote:
   I am talking in terms of  10 x 8 to 16 x 12 print sizes, not postcards.
personally, i'm not a big consumer of prints in the 8x10 and larger range.

in experimenting with the new camera, i made a photo that shirleen 
was so pleased with that i actually sent it off to one of the on-line 
outfits (www.ofoto.com in this case) and the 8x10 that came back was 
crystal clear and sharp.

i'm not certain of the precise process ofoto uses, but i believe it 
is digital imaging on light-sensitive paper that is then (somewhat) 
conventionally processed.

i agree with ferd: you get as many pixels as you can afford -- when i 
was searching, i was willing to make a compromise on pixels to get 
camera features. my theory being a). i'm *not* a professional any 
longer and b). if i need six megapixels i can beg or borrow a camera 
that will do that.

and i agree with both ferd and phil: cameras and equipment are not a 
panacea. you've got to understand how they work and you've got to 
have a modicum of talent (myself excluded here).

the cameras are complex and the software ain't for the 
faint-of-heart, but once you master them you get great results.

\dmc

--
^^^
Dave Cole
Gen'l Sup't:  Grand Teton & Everglades Steam Excursion Co.
  Pacifica, Calif. USA  
List Mom: sslivesteam, the list of small-scale live steamers
  
ATTEND THE NATIONAL SUMMER STEAMUP IN SACRAMENTO, JULY 17-20, 2003
For more information, visit the web site at 
^^^ 

Re: OT: steamup photography [was: (No subject)]

[FBM Studios]

Hi Phil
I would agree. Home and hobby use are very different from
pro use.  As a rule the smallest size I use for jobs is 20mb. and the
largest I have worked with is 1.2gb.  For 5x7's and even 8X10's you can
pull great prints off a 3 megapixel camera. (I also spend 8-12 hours a 
day
working in Adobe Photoshop on an Apple G4 with 1.5GB of ram)
PS- My portfolio 11X14 is printed all on the epson 1280 - I take this 
to Advertising
Agencies and clients and you cannot tell if they are photos or computer 
prints.

Here is a link to a Shay conversion I did (although an RC Battery 
Sparkie)

ftp://fbm_client3:[EMAIL PROTECTED]/  (large files)

Cheers Ferd

On Friday, March 7, 2003, at 04:31  PM, Phil Paskos wrote:

You can get some very good pictures with a 3 megapixel camera. I don't 
know
how fussy you are. I still don't think a digital camera in the hobby 
price
range will compete with a 35mm Nikon with fine grain photo film 
especially
in the 8X10 or 16X12 sizes you are referring to. Like everything else, 
the
camera is only part of the story. The right printer and paper can make 
a
big difference. It takes some time to find a setup that will please 
you. I
use Corel Paint to control the size, quality, color balance, contrast 
etc.
If you use one of the newer printers that have 1200 or better DPI
capabilities, the results to me are plenty good enough. If I plan on
posting them on the net, they must be reduced in size and DPI. A three
megapixel picture not only will take forever to send and download, it 
takes
up a lot of disk space. Even with a fast computer, these pictures can 
take
a long time to process at home and print. For home use and posting to 
the
internet, 3 megapixels is fine. If you plan on sending them to National
Geographic I don't think so.

Hans Huyler( sp?) posts pictures on the Thursday night LS chat group 
from
time to time. Hans is a master at getting pictures that are razor 
sharp and
have a perspective that makes you not really sure if you looking at 
Gauge 1
or a full scale loco. That makes them superb in my eyes.

Phil

I'm partial to Epson printers by the way. I'm using a not very 
expensive
785EPX. I would get one with the new non water soluble inks by the way.
My opinions only

Phil

Hi Trent, Dave et al,
As with high quality 35mm film cameras, Nikon etc. the end results
are
totally dependant on the quality of the lens in the enlarger being
comparable to the original photographic lens.
Therefore, I would be interested in knowing which colour printers 
and
paper do you guys use for supporting the quality of these high 
definition
photographs at 3-6 megapixels. i.e look brilliant on the screen, but 
not
much use if final print quality is not comparable.
I am talking in terms of  10 x 8 to 16 x 12 print sizes, not
postcards.
Please advise,
Thanks guys,
Tony D.
At 10:57 PM 3/4/03 -0600, Trent Dowler wrote:
Hello Dave,

 Thanks for the additional information. It gives me a lot more
confidence in
the 3 Megapixel market.
 I'm currently considering the Sony Mavica CD-400, but haven't
convinced
myself to make the purchase. I'll definitely take a closer look at 
the
Fuji S602
now that I've seen actual photos from it.
 Thanks again for the information.

Later,
Trent
Dave Cole wrote:

*it's a fuji s602.

*it has 6x optical zoom and macro capability (focuses down to three
inches).
*it has manual (as well as auto) shutter speed and aperture.

*it has all the features of a six-megapixel, but is only captures
three megapixels (this is the tradeoff).
*santa paid around $500 for it (same features and six megapixels
would be $1500-$2k).

Re: OT: steamup photography [was: (No subject)]

[Phil Paskos]

You can get some very good pictures with a 3 megapixel camera. I don't know
how fussy you are. I still don't think a digital camera in the hobby price
range will compete with a 35mm Nikon with fine grain photo film especially
in the 8X10 or 16X12 sizes you are referring to. Like everything else, the
camera is only part of the story. The right printer and paper can make a
big difference. It takes some time to find a setup that will please you. I
use Corel Paint to control the size, quality, color balance, contrast etc.
If you use one of the newer printers that have 1200 or better DPI
capabilities, the results to me are plenty good enough. If I plan on
posting them on the net, they must be reduced in size and DPI. A three
megapixel picture not only will take forever to send and download, it takes
up a lot of disk space. Even with a fast computer, these pictures can take
a long time to process at home and print. For home use and posting to the
internet, 3 megapixels is fine. If you plan on sending them to National
Geographic I don't think so.

Hans Huyler( sp?) posts pictures on the Thursday night LS chat group from
time to time. Hans is a master at getting pictures that are razor sharp and
have a perspective that makes you not really sure if you looking at Gauge 1
or a full scale loco. That makes them superb in my eyes.

Phil

I'm partial to Epson printers by the way. I'm using a not very expensive
785EPX. I would get one with the new non water soluble inks by the way.
My opinions only

Phil

> Hi Trent, Dave et al,
> As with high quality 35mm film cameras, Nikon etc. the end results
are
> totally dependant on the quality of the lens in the enlarger being
> comparable to the original photographic lens.
> Therefore, I would be interested in knowing which colour printers and
> paper do you guys use for supporting the quality of these high definition
> photographs at 3-6 megapixels. i.e look brilliant on the screen, but not
> much use if final print quality is not comparable.
> I am talking in terms of  10 x 8 to 16 x 12 print sizes, not
postcards.
> Please advise,
> Thanks guys,
> Tony D.
>
> At 10:57 PM 3/4/03 -0600, Trent Dowler wrote:
> >Hello Dave,
> >
> >  Thanks for the additional information. It gives me a lot more
> > confidence in
> >the 3 Megapixel market.
> >  I'm currently considering the Sony Mavica CD-400, but haven't
convinced
> >myself to make the purchase. I'll definitely take a closer look at the
> >Fuji S602
> >now that I've seen actual photos from it.
> >  Thanks again for the information.
> >
> >Later,
> >Trent
> >
> >
> >Dave Cole wrote:
> >
> > > *it's a fuji s602.
> > >
> > > *it has 6x optical zoom and macro capability (focuses down to three
> > inches).
> > >
> > > *it has manual (as well as auto) shutter speed and aperture.
> > >
> > > *it has all the features of a six-megapixel, but is only captures
> > > three megapixels (this is the tradeoff).
> > >
> > > *santa paid around $500 for it (same features and six megapixels
> > > would be $1500-$2k).
> >
>
>
 

Re: OT: steamup photography [was: (No subject)]

[FBM Studios]

Hi Tony

Nearly all the professional photographers I know (myself included)
use Epson printers. I have both the 1280 and the 2000 printers. Both
produce prints that will challenge and in the 2000 case beat the quality
of any 35mm negative enlarged to 11X14. The one word of caution is
that digital cameras and computers do not make a good image.
It still requires proper photo ability, photoshop knowledge included.
The same applied to the darkroom.
When buying a digital camera always go for the highest megapixel you 
can afford.
There is a difference between a 3 and 6 megapixel camera, and ones
expendable dollar amount is also a trade off.  I use my equipment to 
make
a living as a commercial photographer so a 15,000$ digital back (camera 
not included)
pays for itself very quickly.  Having shot solely digitally for the 
last 5 years I would
not go back to film unless forced.

Back to the printers the 1200 series is 13X19 and the 2000 is archival 
13X19
Dollar value the 1200's are great around 500.00US.

Would be happy to answer any questions you have.
cheers Ferd.
www.7-8N2.com



Company Web site: www.FBM-Studios.com

Re: OT: steamup photography [was: (No subject)]

[Anthony Dixon]

Hi Trent, Dave et al,
   As with high quality 35mm film cameras, Nikon etc. the end results are 
totally dependant on the quality of the lens in the enlarger being 
comparable to the original photographic lens.
   Therefore, I would be interested in knowing which colour printers and 
paper do you guys use for supporting the quality of these high definition 
photographs at 3-6 megapixels. i.e look brilliant on the screen, but not 
much use if final print quality is not comparable.
   I am talking in terms of  10 x 8 to 16 x 12 print sizes, not postcards.
   Please advise,
   Thanks guys,
   Tony D.

At 10:57 PM 3/4/03 -0600, Trent Dowler wrote:
Hello Dave,

 Thanks for the additional information. It gives me a lot more 
confidence in
the 3 Megapixel market.
 I'm currently considering the Sony Mavica CD-400, but haven't convinced
myself to make the purchase. I'll definitely take a closer look at the 
Fuji S602
now that I've seen actual photos from it.
 Thanks again for the information.

Later,
Trent
Dave Cole wrote:

> *it's a fuji s602.
>
> *it has 6x optical zoom and macro capability (focuses down to three 
inches).
>
> *it has manual (as well as auto) shutter speed and aperture.
>
> *it has all the features of a six-megapixel, but is only captures
> three megapixels (this is the tradeoff).
>
> *santa paid around $500 for it (same features and six megapixels
> would be $1500-$2k).

Re: (No subject)

[Anthony Dixon]

Hi Mike,
   Agree on the Macro detail.
   Do you plan on forwarding some of your photo,s taken at Dan,s meet 
also, as per your usual montage?.
   Thank you, Regards,
   Tony D.

   At 10:38 PM 3/3/03 -0800, Michael Martin wrote:
Impressive macro work with that new camera Dave!  Thanks for sharing.

Mike

Re: OT: steamup photography [was: (No subject)]

[Trent Dowler]

Hello Dave,

 Thanks for the additional information. It gives me a lot more confidence in
the 3 Megapixel market.
 I'm currently considering the Sony Mavica CD-400, but haven't convinced
myself to make the purchase. I'll definitely take a closer look at the Fuji S602
now that I've seen actual photos from it.
 Thanks again for the information.

Later,
Trent


Dave Cole wrote:

> *it's a fuji s602.
>
> *it has 6x optical zoom and macro capability (focuses down to three inches).
>
> *it has manual (as well as auto) shutter speed and aperture.
>
> *it has all the features of a six-megapixel, but is only captures
> three megapixels (this is the tradeoff).
>
> *santa paid around $500 for it (same features and six megapixels
> would be $1500-$2k).
 

OT: steamup photography [was: (No subject)]

[Dave Cole]

At 1:04 PM -0600 3/4/03, Trent Dowler wrote:
Hello Dave,
 Do you mind to give me an insight on what camera you used at the
Liebowitz steamup? The macro photo of the smokebox door really sparked
an interest since that seems to be where my digital camera falls short
of acceptable. Good, clear, high resolution close-ups photos are
becoming more a part of my work than ever so a camera upgrade is in the
near future. Thanks in advance.
Later,
Trent
trent:

i just wrote out a long explanation of how i got the camera and then 
deleted it. here's all you probably want to know:

*it's a fuji s602.

*it has 6x optical zoom and macro capability (focuses down to three inches).

*it has manual (as well as auto) shutter speed and aperture.

*it has all the features of a six-megapixel, but is only captures 
three megapixels (this is the tradeoff).

*santa paid around $500 for it (same features and six megapixels 
would be $1500-$2k).

\dmc

--
^^^
Dave Cole
Gen'l Sup't:  Grand Teton & Everglades Steam Excursion Co.
  Pacifica, Calif. USA  
List Mom: sslivesteam, the list of small-scale live steamers
  
ATTEND THE NATIONAL SUMMER STEAMUP IN SACRAMENTO, JULY 17-20, 2003
For more information, visit the web site at 
^^^ 

Re: (No subject)

[Dave Cole]

At 6:43 AM -0800 3/4/03, Steve Shyvers wrote:
Great photos! Were these taken with the new Christmas camera?
yes, indeed. as mike mentioned, it has an awesome macro capability, 
but i am still just learning how to use it. somewhere in my dim, dark 
past i actually worked as a professional photographer but put the 
camera down in 1974 and didn't pick one up again until four or five 
years ago. i still shoot like the college-impoverished photographer i 
once was -- miserly with test shots even though i no longer have to 
buy film or chemistry (i remember having contests with my friends to 
see who could get the most 35mm frames off of a 100-foot roll of 
Tri-X).

Oh, yeah, that's another thing: the camera came with a factory 
setting of ISO 200 and I still think in ISO 400 ... after saturday, i 
think i'll pick up those two stops and see what the quality is like.

\dmc

--
^^^
Dave Cole
Gen'l Sup't:  Grand Teton & Everglades Steam Excursion Co.
  Pacifica, Calif. USA  
List Mom: sslivesteam, the list of small-scale live steamers
  
ATTEND THE NATIONAL SUMMER STEAMUP IN SACRAMENTO, JULY 17-20, 2003
For more information, visit the web site at 
^^^ 

Re: (No subject)

[Steve Shyvers]

Dave,

Great photos! Were these taken with the new Christmas camera?

Steve

Re: (No subject)

[Michael Martin]

Impressive macro work with that new camera Dave!  Thanks for sharing.

Mike 

Re: (No subject)

[Dave Cole]

this reminds me ...

here are some pix i made on saturday at dr. dan liebowitz' in woodside, calif.

http://www.p-c-l-s.com/steamups/030301-liebowitz/

though i concentrated on jeff williams' k-27, there were at least a 
dozen steamers there and quite a few locos.

the long rake of cars of jeff's loco was courtesy of steve heselton, 
who loaned a few of his to supplement jeff's consist.

other -- better -- photographers were there and will probably post too.

thanks dan for a wonderful day.

\dmc

At 12:03 PM -0800 3/3/03, Anthony Dixon wrote:
Hi Dan,
Many thanks for your steamup event and hospitality of yourself 
and Rusty last Saturday.
We had a great time, especially running on the new modified top 
loop. I will try to do more laps next time, so you can witness the 
event.
I am sure everyone had some good running time and thoroughly 
enjoyed the event.
Very Best Regards,
Tony and Pat Dixon


--
^^^
Dave Cole
Gen'l Sup't:  Grand Teton & Everglades Steam Excursion Co.
  Pacifica, Calif. USA  
List Mom: sslivesteam, the list of small-scale live steamers
  
ATTEND THE NATIONAL SUMMER STEAMUP IN SACRAMENTO, JULY 17-20, 2003
For more information, visit the web site at 
^^^ 

(No subject)

[Anthony Dixon]

Hi Dan,
Many thanks for your steamup event and hospitality of yourself and 
Rusty last Saturday.
We had a great time, especially running on the new modified top loop. I 
will try to do more laps next time, so you can witness the event.
I am sure everyone had some good running time and thoroughly enjoyed 
the event.
Very Best Regards,
Tony and Pat Dixon

[no subject]

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From: =?ISO-2022-JP?B?GyRCNUxAbj1jGyhK?= <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: Multiple recipients of sslivesteam <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: DEE Locomotive Builders

I have just finished the DEE frame and bogie. I am building axle pump.


Jun  Kitsukawa
   JAPAN

mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
hp:http://homepage3.nifty.com/locomotive/



 

[no subject]

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Date: Sat, 01 Feb 2003 10:49:41 +0900
From: =?ISO-2022-JP?B?GyRCNUxAbj1jGyhK?= <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: Multiple recipients of sslivesteam <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: DEE Locomotive Builders

I have just finished the DEE frame and bogie. I am building axle pump.


Jun  Kitsukawa
   JAPAN

mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
hp:http://homepage3.nifty.com/locomotive/
 

[no subject]

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Date: Sat, 01 Feb 2003 01:56:51 +0900
From: =?ISO-2022-JP?B?GyRCNUxAbj1jGyhK?= <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: Multiple recipients of sslivesteam <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: DEE Locomotive Builders

I have just finished the DEE frame and bogie. I am building axle pump.


Jun  Kitsukawa
   JAPAN

mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
hp:http://homepage3.nifty.com/locomotive/
 

[no subject]

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From: =?ISO-2022-JP?B?GyRCNUxAbj1jGyhK?= <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: Multiple recipients of sslivesteam <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: DEE Locomotive

I am making axle pump now.
Please let me know how to join the tailrod and ramrod with the follower.


Jun  Kitsukawa

mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
hp:http://members.jcom.home.ne.jp/4057203101/

 

[no subject]

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From: =?ISO-2022-JP?B?GyRCNUxAbj1jGyhK?= <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: Multiple recipients of sslivesteam <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: DEE Loco

Please let me know how to get spring buffers and couplers suitable for DEE
Loco.



Jun  Kitsukawa

mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
hp:http://members.jcom.home.ne.jp/4057203101/

 

[no subject]

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From: =?ISO-2022-JP?B?GyRCNUxAbj1jGyhK?= <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: Multiple recipients of sslivesteam <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: WalSall Model Industries

Please let me know Fax Nomber of WalSall Model Industries.



Jun  Kitsukawa

mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
hp:http://members.jcom.home.ne.jp/4057203101/

 

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Date: Mon, 16 Dec 2002 00:48:12 +0900
From: =?ISO-2022-JP?B?GyRCNUxAbj1jGyhK?= <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: Multiple recipients of sslivesteam <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: DEE Locomotive

I am looking for wheels which are suitable for DEE Locomotive.Please let me
know how to get them.


Jun  Kitsukawa

mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
hp:http://members.jcom.home.ne.jp/4057203101/


 

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From: =?ISO-2022-JP?B?GyRCNUxAbj1jGyhK?= <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: Multiple recipients of sslivesteam <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Inquiry

Please teach me how to get large drivers,bogie wheels and tender wheels of
DEE Locomotive. 



Jun  Kitsukawa
4-10-15  KugenumaSakuragaoka
Fujisawa, Kanagawa
251-0027 JAPAN

mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
hp:http://members.jcom.home.ne.jp/4057203101/


 

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From: =?ISO-2022-JP?B?GyRCNUxAbj1jGyhK?= <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: Multiple recipients of sslivesteam <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: LocoSteam

Does LocoSteam do business now? Please let me know someone LocoSteam's mail
address, and a fax number.


Jun  Kitsukawa

mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
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[no subject]

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Date: Wed, 06 Nov 2002 00:02:19 +0900
From: =?ISO-2022-JP?B?GyRCNUxAbj1jGyhK?= <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: Multiple recipients of sslivesteam <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Inquiry

Hi listers,
Please let me know how to subscribe Model Engineering Magagine.



Jun  Kitsukawa
4-10-15  KugenumaSakuragaoka
Fujisawa, Kanagawa
251-0027 JAPAN

mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
hp:http://members.jcom.home.ne.jp/4057203101/

 

RE: (No subject)

[Alison & Jim Gregg]

I think "Oil of Turpentine" and "Turpentine" are the natural products (from 
wood distillation??)  Mineral turpentine is a synthetic substitute and a 
VERY different substance!

Jim Gregg.

At 04:42 PM 9/9/02 -0700, you wrote:
>Hi Steve,
>How are you doing?.
>Thanks for the info.
>I assume!,  the OSHA list is different names for the same product?. If 
> so the "spirits of Turpentine" and "Turps" sound like the generic names 
> used in the UK.
>
>Also, maybe incorrectly again, I assumed the Oil of Turpentine contained 
>some oil and was a different mixture to the "Spirits". My original info 
>was a third hand telephone call, so not very reliable.
>
>Sounds as if we are getting into the Oil of Parafin and Kerosene name 
>confusion again.
>
>Anyway I will check out the local Orchard Supply, Home Depot and Lowes 
>again using your descriptions for guidance, and take a quick sniff of each!.
>
>Thanks again
>Tony D.
>
>PS. Can I suggest you try it on your engines first, and let us know if you 
>get a melt down from the outside. Probably not, as all your engines are 
>pristine Brass, Copper and Mahogany and unpainted
>Regards
>UK At 04:14 PM 9/9/02 -0700, Shyvers, Steve wrote:
>>Tony,
>>
>>OSHA lists the following synonyms for turpentine: Gum spirits, turps, gum
>>thus, D.D. turpentine, wood turpentine, oil of turpentine, rectified
>>turpentine oil, spirits of turpentine, sulfate wood turpentine, sulfate
>>turpentine, gum turpentine, steam-distilled turpentine.
>>
>>As you can see, "oil of turpentine" and "rectified turpentine oil" can be
>>used to describe turpentine. It's all supposed to be distilled pine resin.
>>
>>I remember turpentine feeling similar to old-fashioned paint thinner, but
>>not exactly oily. I have never heard of turpentine in the U.S. containing an
>>oil base.
>>
>>Unfortunately I am out of stock on turpentine or I'd lend you some to try.
>>The last time I used it was mixed in equal proportions with pine tar and
>>linseed oil, and then applied to the inside of my sailboat as a
>>preservative. It smelled good, too.
>>
>>Steve
>>
>>-Original Message-
>>From: Anthony Dixon [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]
>>Sent: Monday, September 09, 2002 12:18 PM
>>To: Multiple recipients of sslivesteam
>>Subject: (No subject)
>>
>>
>>Hi Geoffey,
>>Do you remember using "White Spirits" (Turpentine?) mild paint
>>cleaner/degreaser in the UK?.
>>Can you remember the White Spirits ingredients, or know it's
>>equivalent in USA?.
>>Alternatively, if any of our UK readers can identify the
>>ingredients, please advise.
>>I am very reluctant to use some of the volatile cleaners over here
>>i.e MEK, Acetones  etc. and cleaners with un-identified ingredients.
>>I also understand "wood Turpentine"? available in US, has an oil
>>base?.
>>UK White spirits (Turpentine) is not oil based as I remember. So I
>>think not the same.
>>Any ideas?.
>>Mike Gregory recommended 3:1 ratio of White Spirits and Light oil
>>for engine cleaning, so looking to concure.
>>Thank you,
>>Regards,
>>Tony D.
 

RE: (No subject)

[Anthony Dixon]

Hi Steve,
How are you doing?.
Thanks for the info.
I assume!,  the OSHA list is different names for the same product?. If 
so the "spirits of Turpentine" and "Turps" sound like the generic names 
used in the UK.

Also, maybe incorrectly again, I assumed the Oil of Turpentine contained 
some oil and was a different mixture to the "Spirits". My original info was 
a third hand telephone call, so not very reliable.

Sounds as if we are getting into the Oil of Parafin and Kerosene name 
confusion again.

Anyway I will check out the local Orchard Supply, Home Depot and Lowes 
again using your descriptions for guidance, and take a quick sniff of each!.

Thanks again
Tony D.

PS. Can I suggest you try it on your engines first, and let us know if you 
get a melt down from the outside. Probably not, as all your engines are 
pristine Brass, Copper and Mahogany and unpainted
Regards
UK At 04:14 PM 9/9/02 -0700, Shyvers, Steve wrote:
>Tony,
>
>OSHA lists the following synonyms for turpentine: Gum spirits, turps, gum
>thus, D.D. turpentine, wood turpentine, oil of turpentine, rectified
>turpentine oil, spirits of turpentine, sulfate wood turpentine, sulfate
>turpentine, gum turpentine, steam-distilled turpentine.
>
>As you can see, "oil of turpentine" and "rectified turpentine oil" can be
>used to describe turpentine. It's all supposed to be distilled pine resin.
>
>I remember turpentine feeling similar to old-fashioned paint thinner, but
>not exactly oily. I have never heard of turpentine in the U.S. containing an
>oil base.
>
>Unfortunately I am out of stock on turpentine or I'd lend you some to try.
>The last time I used it was mixed in equal proportions with pine tar and
>linseed oil, and then applied to the inside of my sailboat as a
>preservative. It smelled good, too.
>
>Steve
>
>-Original Message-
>From: Anthony Dixon [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]
>Sent: Monday, September 09, 2002 12:18 PM
>To: Multiple recipients of sslivesteam
>Subject: (No subject)
>
>
>Hi Geoffey,
>Do you remember using "White Spirits" (Turpentine?) mild paint
>cleaner/degreaser in the UK?.
>Can you remember the White Spirits ingredients, or know it's
>equivalent in USA?.
>Alternatively, if any of our UK readers can identify the
>ingredients, please advise.
>I am very reluctant to use some of the volatile cleaners over here
>i.e MEK, Acetones  etc. and cleaners with un-identified ingredients.
>I also understand "wood Turpentine"? available in US, has an oil
>base?.
>UK White spirits (Turpentine) is not oil based as I remember. So I
>think not the same.
>Any ideas?.
>Mike Gregory recommended 3:1 ratio of White Spirits and Light oil
>for engine cleaning, so looking to concure.
>Thank you,
>Regards,
>Tony D.
>
 

RE: (No subject)

[Shyvers, Steve]

Tony,

OSHA lists the following synonyms for turpentine: Gum spirits, turps, gum
thus, D.D. turpentine, wood turpentine, oil of turpentine, rectified
turpentine oil, spirits of turpentine, sulfate wood turpentine, sulfate
turpentine, gum turpentine, steam-distilled turpentine.

As you can see, "oil of turpentine" and "rectified turpentine oil" can be
used to describe turpentine. It's all supposed to be distilled pine resin.

I remember turpentine feeling similar to old-fashioned paint thinner, but
not exactly oily. I have never heard of turpentine in the U.S. containing an
oil base.

Unfortunately I am out of stock on turpentine or I'd lend you some to try.
The last time I used it was mixed in equal proportions with pine tar and
linseed oil, and then applied to the inside of my sailboat as a
preservative. It smelled good, too.

Steve
 
-Original Message-
From: Anthony Dixon [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]
Sent: Monday, September 09, 2002 12:18 PM
To: Multiple recipients of sslivesteam
Subject: (No subject)


Hi Geoffey,
   Do you remember using "White Spirits" (Turpentine?) mild paint 
cleaner/degreaser in the UK?.
   Can you remember the White Spirits ingredients, or know it's 
equivalent in USA?.
   Alternatively, if any of our UK readers can identify the 
ingredients, please advise.
   I am very reluctant to use some of the volatile cleaners over here 
i.e MEK, Acetones  etc. and cleaners with un-identified ingredients.
   I also understand "wood Turpentine"? available in US, has an oil
base?.
   UK White spirits (Turpentine) is not oil based as I remember. So I 
think not the same.
   Any ideas?.
   Mike Gregory recommended 3:1 ratio of White Spirits and Light oil 
for engine cleaning, so looking to concure.
   Thank you,
   Regards,
   Tony D.
  

(No subject)

[Anthony Dixon]

Hi Geoffey,
   Do you remember using "White Spirits" (Turpentine?) mild paint 
cleaner/degreaser in the UK?.
   Can you remember the White Spirits ingredients, or know it's 
equivalent in USA?.
   Alternatively, if any of our UK readers can identify the 
ingredients, please advise.
   I am very reluctant to use some of the volatile cleaners over here 
i.e MEK, Acetones  etc. and cleaners with un-identified ingredients.
   I also understand "wood Turpentine"? available in US, has an oil base?.
   UK White spirits (Turpentine) is not oil based as I remember. So I 
think not the same.
   Any ideas?.
   Mike Gregory recommended 3:1 ratio of White Spirits and Light oil 
for engine cleaning, so looking to concure.
   Thank you,
   Regards,
   Tony D.
 

Re: Steam Radio Generator - was -(No subject)

[Mike Chaney]

Jim wrote:-

> I don't know if this is any help but during World War 2, the British
> developed a small simple steam generating plant to drive clandestine radio
> transmitters in German occupied Europe.  These were air dropped to the
> Partisans and Resistance Workers...

It was in Model Engineer Vol 164, Jan-Jun 1990 in several episodes.

As I recall, it was used out in the woods for charging the batteries, using
locally available fuel. Acoustic and electrical noise would have made reception
rather difficult had it been used for powering the radios directly (as well as
the exhaust steam causing a lot of condensation in Rene's mother-in-law's
bedroom.)

'Allo, 'Allo!

Mike

 

Re: Steam Radio Generator - was -(No subject)

[Alison & Jim Gregg]

Hi Leo.

I don't know if this is any help but during World War 2, the British 
developed a small simple steam generating plant to drive clandestine radio 
transmitters in German occupied Europe.  These were air dropped to the 
Partisans and Resistance Workers.

This consisted of a Stuart Turner "Sun " or "Sirius" high speed twin 
cylinder single acting engine direct coupled to a generator which would 
drive a valve type radio.  Bore and stroke of the engine were either 3/4" 
or 1".

The whole thing was driven by a boiler which looked like a kitchen 
"Pressure Cooker" - about the size of a large saucepan, and the whole lot 
could be packed inside the boiler.  Possibly some of the war museums in 
Holland might have one to look at.

There was an article fairly recently in an English magazine either "Model 
Engineer", or "Engimeering in Miniature" describing and illustrating 
it..   I can chase it up for you if you wish.

Jim Gregg.

At 06:54 PM 5/1/02 +0200, you wrote:
>Hello Listmembers,
>
>please allow me to introduce myself: Leo Starrenburg from Holland, 45 years
>old and tinkering with trains, steam and electricity for as long as I can
>remember.
>
>Live steam building has been in-active for about 5 years, I have a 3 1/2 "
>gauge Tich with the frame on its wheels gathering dust. Before that I made
>mostly 7 1/4 " gauge steam- diesel- and electrical locomotives. The last
>years I revamped my interest in amateurradio, which brings me to my
>question:
>
>I'm looking for a gasburner to fire up a small (2" x 5") boiler, the only
>limits I have for the boilerdesign are those measurements, the rest is
>adaptable to the burner. Ready-made or a proven design would fit my bill.
>The boiler is part of a steamplant wich will (I hope) generate enough
>electricity to run a small amateurradio transmitter for a couple of minutes.
>Please see the details at http://members.home.nl/starren
>
>Thank you for your time and attention,
>
>Regards,
>
>Leo
>
 

RE: (No subject)

[Shyvers, Steve]

Leo,

Perhaps Cheddar in the UK can supply a suitable burner and boiler
(http://www.modelsteam.co.uk). Cheddar offers ceramic burners, which would
probably burn more efficiently than a poker or blow-torch type burner, and
be easier to control the heat output.

After looking at your drawing I would speculate that to keep the generator
cool will be a big challenge, and could limit the QSO duration more than the
boiler capacity. Also, how do you plan to get the burner's exhaust gases out
of the shack?

Steve

-Original Message-
From: PA5LS [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]
Sent: Wednesday, May 01, 2002 9:55 AM
To: Multiple recipients of sslivesteam
Subject: (No subject)


Hello Listmembers,

please allow me to introduce myself: Leo Starrenburg from Holland, 45 years
old and tinkering with trains, steam and electricity for as long as I can
remember.

Live steam building has been in-active for about 5 years, I have a 3 1/2 "
gauge Tich with the frame on its wheels gathering dust. Before that I made
mostly 7 1/4 " gauge steam- diesel- and electrical locomotives. The last
years I revamped my interest in amateurradio, which brings me to my
question:

I'm looking for a gasburner to fire up a small (2" x 5") boiler, the only
limits I have for the boilerdesign are those measurements, the rest is
adaptable to the burner. Ready-made or a proven design would fit my bill.
The boiler is part of a steamplant wich will (I hope) generate enough
electricity to run a small amateurradio transmitter for a couple of minutes.
Please see the details at http://members.home.nl/starren

Thank you for your time and attention,

Regards,

Leo
  

(No subject)

[PA5LS]

Hello Listmembers,

please allow me to introduce myself: Leo Starrenburg from Holland, 45 years
old and tinkering with trains, steam and electricity for as long as I can
remember.

Live steam building has been in-active for about 5 years, I have a 3 1/2 "
gauge Tich with the frame on its wheels gathering dust. Before that I made
mostly 7 1/4 " gauge steam- diesel- and electrical locomotives. The last
years I revamped my interest in amateurradio, which brings me to my
question:

I'm looking for a gasburner to fire up a small (2" x 5") boiler, the only
limits I have for the boilerdesign are those measurements, the rest is
adaptable to the burner. Ready-made or a proven design would fit my bill.
The boiler is part of a steamplant wich will (I hope) generate enough
electricity to run a small amateurradio transmitter for a couple of minutes.
Please see the details at http://members.home.nl/starren

Thank you for your time and attention,

Regards,

Leo
 

No Subject

[Tag Gorton]

thought you might like to see this ref Superior - sorry no phots
organsied yet but will be published in the UK in Railway Modeller.  this
is a general railway modelling mag so some of the text may bring to mind
Granny's and sucking eggs.  anyway it should provide an overview of what
is a very worthwhile model

--

Yours Aye

Tag Gorton

Longlands & Western Railway
Trematon Office
Cornwall

A Far Eastern Superior

By Tag Gorton

Have you noticed just how many new live steam locomotives are appearing
on the narrow gauge garden railway scene of late?  Many of these have
been "budget" locomotives of no particular provenance and sized to suit
both 16mm and G-scale and several have been featured in these hallowed
pages.  Now I am actually quite keen on "generic" models and locomotives
designed to look similar to a Hunslet or Kerr Stuart or whatever,
because, like a prototypical narrow gauge railway, my LWR Board of
Directors will purchase a suitable locomotive within a limited budget to
run the company's trains.  It all depends doesn't it, on how one defines
realism!
For instance what is more real?  A narrow gauge train, running in the
open air, pulled by a simple working steam locomotive - or one pulled by
an electric steam outline model with a high level of detail?  I make no
value judgements here, because this all depends on the preferences of the
individual, but each method of modelling is realistic in it's own way.  
My own particular preference is rather obviously for live steam power and
if there is a downside to running real steam railways in the garden then
it just has to be the initial cost of motive power.  This has been a
perceived problem addressed by several builders and manufacturers over
the years, and now our section of this great hobby has matured, the
advent of cheaper models retaining a high level of quality control and
engineering excellence has opened out the market, allowing people to move
into live steam without committing to four figure outlays on motive
power.  One can now purchase a well found steam locomotive for a price
similar to that of a white metal "0" gauge locomotive kit.
Now while steam locomotives generally retain value, the move from budget
steam power to a heavyweight scale model of an actual locomotive can
still be quite daunting if mortgage and other commitments are pressing. 
Many people therefore, continue to run railways using locomotives with
oscillating cylinders, such as the well found "Jane and Train" range
provided by IP Engineering.  You may remember the excellent and
atmospheric Burnley and Penryn line featured recently in Railway Modeller
and will therefore know that this is by no means a "second best' option.
Generally speaking however, if you want a reasonably accurate model of a
real locomotive, you are usually looking at a price point of
significantly over one thousand sovs and rising!  I am sorry - but there
it is!  Hand built engineering tends to be expensive but what you get is
not only rather an attractive thing to display but something that will
also look superb pulling your company's trains through the garden.

Latest Offering

The financial leap from "budget" to a prototype model has now been partly
bridged by the advent of live steam models designed in the United Kingdom
and produced by Accucraft Trains in China.  This company has been
producing model trains for some years now and a while ago branched out
into live steam with the introduction of the  G-scale American side tank
switcher "Ruby", followed by sister saddle tank locomotive "Ida".
Further live steam models have included an American Consolidation and C16.
The first British model produced by Accucraft proved to be an internally
gas fired version of a Kerr Stuart 0-4-2 saddle tank of the Brazil class,
built for Bowater's paper railway in 1908 and now resident on the
Whipsnade line.  A fairly accurate representation of the prototype
"Excelsior" as currently running, Accucraft's first model was
convertible, as standard, from 32mm to 45mm gauge and supplied with
manual control only at around five hundred pounds.  Designed to make use
of as many 'Ruby" components as possible and  also for easy fitting of
radio control with brackets and switch mountings, this was, and is, an
attractive and well engineered model at a very good price.
The latest British offering from Accucraft is of the somewhat larger Kerr
Stuart 0-6-2  "Superior" which has been designed afresh from the rail up
and incorporates larger cylinders to provide a far wider power band than
the smaller "Excelsior" and to provide a performance to match the best on
the market in terms of pulling power.  At a recommended purchase price of
£725 this represents excellent value value for money in today's market
and if you look around you should pick one up for less than £700

A Fairly Significant Beast...

This 16mm scale model is approximately 13.5 inches over buffers, 6.5
inches high from the railhead, a shade over 4.5 inches wide and we

(No subject)

[Phil. Paskos]

? 
 

Re: (No subject)

[Jesse Grimmer]

Man, you are really smooth.  You need to stand back a bit from your steamer.
I think the steam and oil are getting to you.
Jess

 

Re: (No subject)

[Trent Dowler]

Congratulations!
Sounds like your child is already off on the right foot with, "the heartbeat
sounds just like a steam engine".

Later,
Trent


Brademan Royce A NSSC wrote:

> My wife and I are expecting our first child in late November.
 

Re: (No subject)

[Ferdinand Mels]

Congrats - its the best experience in the world.
We had a girl exactly 3 months ago.
We chose to have the birth here at home with 2 midwives and
our Nateopath. It truly was the most amazing experience
I have ever been a part of.   I am sure
firing up a 3/4"scale Big Boy is quite something but seeing  your own
baby come into the  world  is life changing.
Cheers Ferd

Brademan Royce A NSSC wrote:.

> My wife and I are expecting our first child in late November.  So last week
> I went with my wife to the OB/GYN for her checkup.


 

(No subject)

[Brademan Royce A NSSC]

You guys will get a kick out of this...
My wife and I are expecting our first child in late November.  So last week
I went with my wife to the OB/GYN for her checkup.  When the doctor first
came into the office, he said "let's check the baby's heartbeat first".  He
did this by hooking up some sort of listening/amplifying device to my wife's
belly.  The device broadcast the sound of the baby's heartbeat so we could
all hear it.  I listened, for a moment, and then announced to both my wife
and the doctor that "the heartbeat sounds just like a steam engine".  You
can imagine how that went over with my wife!  I had to explain my comment to
the doctor as well, because he had no idea what I was talking about.  :-)

Royce Brademan

 

Re: Increasing Ruby run time [was: (no subject)]

[Cgnr]

In a message dated 5/24/01 3:36:33 PM Pacific Daylight Time, 
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

<< Actually, it was not you. >>
Trent,
Then you did miss the very early Sunday morning blow up.  I became very awake 
after that.
Bob 

Re: Increasing Ruby run time [was: (no subject)]

[Trent Dowler]

Hello Bob,

  Actually, it was not you. It was a young guy (probably around 12 years old) at
DH a couple of years ago. I saw him later and he was still rubbing the singed
remains of hair from his arm. He was just lucky it was only his arm.
  You had better be careful for sure. If you have a flare up and it singed all
the hair off your head, nobody would know you. 

Later,
Trent


[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

> << I saw quite a pyrotechnics show one time when someone
>  was topping off a Butane tank when a locomotive went by on the next track. >
> Hey!!!  Do I resemble that remark?
> Bob
> Keep your steam up and your butane tanks away from alcohol burners!
 

Re: Increasing Ruby run time [was: (no subject)]

[Cgnr]

In a message dated 5/23/01 10:52:19 AM Pacific Daylight Time, 
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

<< I saw quite a pyrotechnics show one time when someone
 was topping off a Butane tank when a locomotive went by on the next track. >
Hey!!!  Do I resemble that remark?
Bob
Keep your steam up and your butane tanks away from alcohol burners! 

Re: Increasing Ruby run time [was: (no subject)]

[Vidmanrog]

Hi Trent,

Thanks for the information, after a run I only have to add right at 45ml to 
bring the water level back up to where I can steam up again. So it seems to 
me there must be quite a bit of water left in the boiler after each run.

I'll try topping off the tank the next time I steam up and keep a close eye 
on the water level. 

Don't worry I'll be sure to shut off the burner before topping off and there 
are no other live steamers around these parts to worry about coming by.

Happy steaming,
Roger 

Re: (no subject)

[trotfox]

I run this way and have not run out of water because of it.

Trot, the fox who likes long run-times!  {:)

On Tue, 22 May 2001 [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

> Hi All,
>
> Question!,,, If  when  Ruby gets steam up, to increase the run time if  I
> were to shut down the burner and then top off the fuel tank before starting a
> run will the fuel run out before the water?
>
> I spent this evening  making several nice runs with Ruby, the temp. here in
> Iowa this evening was in the low 50's and she sure gave off some nice steam
> plumes from her stack, sure was a neat sight.
>
> Ruby seems to run better every run, I don't have to push her back and forth
> at the start of the run anymore , just put her in reverse and give her some
> steam and away she goes.
>
> Keep up the steam,
> Roger Arndt


 /\_/\TrotFox\ Always remember,
( o o )  AKA Landon Solomon   \ "There is a
 >\./< [EMAIL PROTECTED] \ third alternative."
 

Increasing Ruby run time [was: (no subject)]

[Trent Dowler]

Hello Roger,

  Make sure that both your burner and the burners of nearby locomotives are not
lit before topping off the Butane tank. Common sense maybe, but it never hurts to
stress the safety points. I saw quite a pyrotechnics show one time when someone
was topping off a Butane tank when a locomotive went by on the next track.
  Anyway, that's exactly what I and most everyone else that I've noticed do. Get
the steam up, shut the burner off, top off the Butane, and relight. I found that
I would have run out of water before fuel. Obviously not a good thing so I placed
a Goodal valve in the filler bush. That was way back before mine was properly
broken in and may be different about consumption now.
  I usually run with about 10 PSI on the gauge if I'm not pulling rolling stock
and I'm running on level track. That may have nothing to do with the fuel/water
consumption ratio, I'm not sure. My only point being that I keep the burner low
during running.
  A Goodal valve and top off bottle in combination with topping off the Butane on
occasion would allow you to run for hours (or until your "squirter finger" gives
out).

Later,
Trent


[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

> Question!,,, If  when  Ruby gets steam up, to increase the run time if  I
> were to shut down the burner and then top off the fuel tank before starting a
> run will the fuel run out before the water?
 

(no subject)

[Vidmanrog]

Hi All,

Question!,,, If  when  Ruby gets steam up, to increase the run time if  I 
were to shut down the burner and then top off the fuel tank before starting a 
run will the fuel run out before the water?

I spent this evening  making several nice runs with Ruby, the temp. here in 
Iowa this evening was in the low 50's and she sure gave off some nice steam 
plumes from her stack, sure was a neat sight.

Ruby seems to run better every run, I don't have to push her back and forth 
at the start of the run anymore , just put her in reverse and give her some 
steam and away she goes.

Keep up the steam,
Roger Arndt 

(No subject)

[John Simkovich]

I was wondering if any one makes decals for G Scale trains in the following
roads:  Lehigh Valley, and Jersey Central   I know that Aristocraft
has a few cars out, but I am interested in some different rolling stock.
Thank You Very Much
John
 

Re: (No subject)

[Paul Gieske]

Trent,

Well she is a very nice lady, but I don't think I
could ever describe her as speechless.

Paul

--- Trent Dowler <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Paul,
> 
>   Maybe she was speechless?
> 
> Trent
> 
> 
> Paul Gieske wrote:
> 
> >  so I thought she would be equally thrilled
> > with the #268 Bee (which I think is gorgeous).  I
> > received no comments what so ever.
>  


__
Do You Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Auctions - Buy the things you want at great prices! http://auctions.yahoo.com/ 

Re: (No subject)

[Trent Dowler]

Paul,

  Maybe she was speechless?

Trent


Paul Gieske wrote:

>  so I thought she would be equally thrilled
> with the #268 Bee (which I think is gorgeous).  I
> received no comments what so ever.
 

Re: (No subject)

[Don Plasterer]

Paul,

That's a good sign  -- she must not have seen the price tag!

Don


>From: Paul Gieske <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>To: Multiple recipients of sslivesteam <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>Subject: (No subject)
>Date: Wed, 21 Feb 2001 07:25:08 -0800 (PST)
>
> >> In fact, that's just how the 268 got that
> >>  awful yellow paint job)
> >>
> >>  regards,
> >>-vance-
>
>Oh, you're killing me. :)
>
>Actually my wife made a comment about how pretty the
>Bachmann Mogal was when I received it (I think it's
>too gaudy), so I thought she would be equally thrilled
>with the #268 Bee (which I think is gorgeous).  I
>received no comments what so ever.
>
>Paul
>Mesa, AZ
>
>__
>Do You Yahoo!?
>Yahoo! Auctions - Buy the things you want at great prices! 
>http://auctions.yahoo.com/

_
Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com
 

(No subject)

[Paul Gieske]

>> In fact, that's just how the 268 got that 
>>  awful yellow paint job)
>>
>>  regards,
>>-vance-

Oh, you're killing me. :)

Actually my wife made a comment about how pretty the
Bachmann Mogal was when I received it (I think it's
too gaudy), so I thought she would be equally thrilled
with the #268 Bee (which I think is gorgeous).  I
received no comments what so ever.

Paul
Mesa, AZ

__
Do You Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Auctions - Buy the things you want at great prices! http://auctions.yahoo.com/ 

Re: (No subject) - 100% butane

[ArtwalkJ98]

re. Sam Evans -
I must disagree with your comment the the tin cans are 'inherently' stronger 
than Roundhouse gas tanks. I have been told that the end 'valve' blows out at 
two / three hundred psi. 
The figures I quoted were given in conversation with RH & they apply both to 
RH cylindrical & rectangular tanks - they have made them that way.

I think Clark got it right - it is a butt covering exercise. 
A wise precaution in a country where mishaps are never due to individual 
stupidity but always to manufacturers, the previous government, or both.

Art Walker, Guildford. 

Re: (No subject)

[Sam Evans]

Roundhouse also recommend Isobutane, available from camping shops I
understand.  This has better cold weather performance than ordinary
butane which will not vaporize at 0 degrees C.

When heated the pressure of Propane rises far faster than Butane, not
only does this have safety implications but also for firing the loco. 
my merlin Hunslet, on Butane alone in summer makes far more steam than I
need 
as the tank warms up.  With a mix the problem is probably far worse.

Finally if Roundhouse's tanks are not tested to the parameters of a
propane tank demanded in UK law it would be suicide for them to suggest
a mix would be OK.

For those who say that the tins are relatively frail, Gaz in the UK used
proper welded containers for any serious volume of butane only.  The
throwaway tins have round bodies with domed tops and ends which are
inherently stronger structures than the rectangular tanks we tend to
use.

Stick to what's recommended.  If there was an accident and you were
using mix against Roundhouse's advice, the liability would be yours as
there advice is quite unambiguous.  If I were to use mix it would be on
a winter only basis, and then when the temp was right low.

In winter I usually use butane only and fire up indoors until working
pressure is reached.  The whole system is usually warm enough by then
for there to be no problems.

Sam in UK
"Charles W. Walters" wrote:
> 
> I know this has been hashed around a lot, but I want to ask again and this
> time pay very close attention to your responses.  Why, because my new
> Roundhouse Fowler just arrived and I don't want to damage it in any way.
> The directions say "100% butane only", however, if I am not mistaken,
> several of you have used 70% butane/30% propane mix and have been very
> happy.  One reason I have picked up here, is that it ignites better in
> colder weather.  What are the dangers of this mix and what are the
> advantages, besides cold weather performance.  One obvious advantage is that
> I can buy all the 8 oz cans I want for $3.47 each and it's always available.
> (Several of my friends use this mix and are very happy with it)  Your
> opinions!!
> 
> Chuck
> 
> Charles W. Walters
> Technology/Library Director
> Hannibal Central School District
> Owner - Twin Lakes Railway
> http://home.twcny.rr.com/twinlakesrw
> President - Central New York Large Scale Railway Society
> http://www.mygardenrailroad.com/cnylsrs
> 
>

 

Re: (No subject)

[Clark Lord]

"Charles W. Walters" wrote:
> several of you have used 70% butane/30% propane mix and have been very
> happy.

Well I have been using the above mix in all my gas fired engines (LGB
Frank S [now Frank the Tank]: 10 years, Aster WM Shay: 9 years, Aster
K4: 8 years, Mike Chaney Heisler: 2 years, Mike Chaney 24T Shay: 5
months and Accucraft Ruby 3 months)  Works like a champ and the price is
right.  Here in Las Vegas we range from 30F to 110F and it works just
fine.  I usually use the GAZ brand camping gas.  16 oz / $6.30.

In my humble opinion the engine manufactures do not want to be liable
for any mishap should their gas tank be involved so they print the
butane only disclaimer.

That's it.  Happy Steaming.

Clark.  

ps Why not write to them and ask the same question?  Complain about the
butane only caveat and see what they say.  Should be interesting to see
if they give you legal answer or a sound engineering answer about gas
pressures and tank construction.  I'm betting it will be a legal one
cause the tanks are truly over engineered.  

CBL 

(No subject)

[Charles W. Walters]

I know this has been hashed around a lot, but I want to ask again and this
time pay very close attention to your responses.  Why, because my new
Roundhouse Fowler just arrived and I don't want to damage it in any way.
The directions say "100% butane only", however, if I am not mistaken,
several of you have used 70% butane/30% propane mix and have been very
happy.  One reason I have picked up here, is that it ignites better in
colder weather.  What are the dangers of this mix and what are the
advantages, besides cold weather performance.  One obvious advantage is that
I can buy all the 8 oz cans I want for $3.47 each and it's always available.
(Several of my friends use this mix and are very happy with it)  Your
opinions!!

Chuck

Charles W. Walters
Technology/Library Director
Hannibal Central School District
Owner - Twin Lakes Railway
http://home.twcny.rr.com/twinlakesrw
President - Central New York Large Scale Railway Society
http://www.mygardenrailroad.com/cnylsrs


 

(No subject)

[TrotFox]

Well ,at least I don't have to worry about her swinging on me.  };]

I can't seem to keep the fire burning.  Is this the reason everyone's saying 
the Ruby needs a #3 jet?  If so, where do I get one?

Trot, the frustrating Ruby owning, fox...
-- 


 TrotFox  \ Always remember,   /\-/\
AKA Landon Solomon \ "There is a  ( o o )
[EMAIL PROTECTED] \ third alternative."  >\./<
 

Re: (no subject)

[SaltyChief]

In a message dated 00-02-17 12:04:49 EST, you write:

<< I think I made the fuel tank a bit larger than called for in the drawings,
 and it fills the space between the frames.  As a result, there is very
 good heat transfer between the frames and the fuel tank.  When running,
 the alcohol boils in the tank, and the vapor frequently ignites in the
 cab. This impresses visitors as the engine runs along with an extra fire
 in the cab.  It's not very harmful; I blow the fire out as the engine
 comes around. >>
   
 Would this be a sight to behold  -  or what!!   ah yes the joys of live 
steam!! 

Re: (no subject)

[William F. Kaiser]

On Thu, 17 Feb 2000 [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

> Hello steam people, 
> I was wondering if anyone as ever heard of or has built an "O" gauge Live 
> Steam locomotive named DICKINS that was published in Live Steam magazine in 
> 1976?


I used the article to build my first steam loco.  I scaled most of it up
by a factor of 1.5 to make it fit gauge 1 track.  With a little more room
to work, I made double acting cylinders, and put a throttle valve on top of
the steam dome.  I changed the cab arrangement a bit.

It's not a great engine, but it's still fun to run.  It does quite well
on level track.  It has trouble climbing hills, unless it gets up some
speed first.  It is an alarmingly fast downhill runner.  

It tended to hardly steam at all in anything but dead calm air, so I added
a couple of baffles beside the boiler, resembling side tanks, to cut down
on wind blowing the flame around.  That helped a lot, but It doesn't run
well on a windy day. 

I think I made the fuel tank a bit larger than called for in the drawings,
and it fills the space between the frames.  As a result, there is very
good heat transfer between the frames and the fuel tank.  When running,
the alcohol boils in the tank, and the vapor frequently ignites in the
cab. This impresses visitors as the engine runs along with an extra fire
in the cab.  It's not very harmful; I blow the fire out as the engine
comes around.


--
Bill Kaiser
[EMAIL PROTECTED]

There are three ways to do a job: good, cheap, and quick.
You can have any two.
A good, cheap job won't be quick.
A good, quick job won't be cheap.
A cheap, quick job won't be good.
 

Re: (no subject)

[SALTYCRABB]

I don't know if this is what prompted the inquiry about the "Dickins" engine 
but coincidentally there are a couple for sale on eBay:

<>

Be of Good Cheer

Jim Crabb
Houston 

(no subject)

[MHanson64]

Hello steam people, 
I was wondering if anyone as ever heard of or has built an "O" gauge Live 
Steam locomotive named DICKINS that was published in Live Steam magazine in 
1976?
The Loco was also sold as a kit in the same magazine by  American Edestaal, 
Inc..

I just made my maiden run with great success, this is my first attempt at 
live steam,  I am having a great time with it!!

I was just wondering if anyone else has had any experience with this 
engine??


Keep up the grate work!!!

Michael Hanson