Thank you to the service people from the various countries represented on this
list …
Paul
> On May 28, 2017, at 12:43 PM, Larry Smith wrote:
>
> On Sun May 28 2017 10:32, Jaime Solorza wrote:
>> God bless and thanks for serving...Jaime
>
> +100 and thank you.
>
> --
>
This is why I gave up on the BCM48 and just started using the BCMU360
instead. The regular BCMs seem to have NO charging current limit. Either
that or something in them breaks and the results are the same. I cooked
a TSP360-148. The one I mentioned a few months ago that screeches on
startup.
We're talking 7.62x51 NATO. I have an ArmaLite AR-10 w/ an ACOG on top
and a 2-stage trigger that I built about 10 years ago. It's not cheap to
shoot, but it sure is fun. :) If I was going to buy another 7.62 gun
today, it'd be an LMT 308 MWS.
On 5/28/2017 12:54 PM, Jason McKemie wrote:
Dave, is that 7.62x39? I have five 30rd mags, but never built/bought an
upper for it. 5.56 came down in price so I said screw it. You can have
the mags if you want them. I also have five 5.45x39 mags if anyone wants
those. Never got around to an upper for that either. They are all
C-Products
On 5/28/17 1:11 PM, Josh Baird wrote:
R Series [1] should be fine for the AC side though, right?
[1] http://www.alliedelec.com/altech-corp-2du25r/70075748/
Yes, fine for AC. You could probably use a smaller breaker in D curve
since it's 100ms trip is 20 times rated current. That means a 25A
R Series [1] should be fine for the AC side though, right?
[1] http://www.alliedelec.com/altech-corp-2du25r/70075748/
On Sun, May 28, 2017 at 2:43 PM, Seth Mattinen wrote:
> On 5/28/17 11:24 AM, Josh Baird wrote:
>
>> Ok - thanks for the info! It looks like the R-Series
Thanks.. these are *much* cheaper than what I have been using.
On Sun, May 28, 2017 at 3:54 PM, Chuck McCown wrote:
> A bit lower cost:
> https://www.invertersupply.com/index.php?main_page=
> product_info_id=5857=CMr2gOyuk9QCFQ6QaQodFyQDTA
>
> *From:* Chuck McCown
> *Sent:*
A bit lower cost:
https://www.invertersupply.com/index.php?main_page=product_info_id=5857=CMr2gOyuk9QCFQ6QaQodFyQDTA
From: Chuck McCown
Sent: Sunday, May 28, 2017 1:34 PM
To: af@afmug.com
Subject: Re: [AFMUG] Traco TSP+BCM Question
Sorry, that was wrong. This is what you want:
Sorry, that was wrong. This is what you want:
https://www.solar-electric.com/midnite-solar-mnepv-10-amps-circuit-breaker.html
$11.35 and you can buy just one.
Din rail mount.
Midnite-solar has a full range of these in many different amperage ratings.
But until you get one, go to an auto
I have used these for DC:
https://www.solar-electric.com/mneac.html
From: Josh Baird
Sent: Sunday, May 28, 2017 12:24 PM
To: af@afmug.com
Subject: Re: [AFMUG] Traco TSP+BCM Question
Ok - thanks for the info! It looks like the R-Series breakers are only for AC,
though? On the AC side, I'm
On 5/28/17 11:43 AM, Seth Mattinen wrote:
The UR series is the DC version:
http://www.altechcorp.com/breakers/UR-Series.html
Scratch that, that's wrong.
I was thinking DL series:
http://www.altechcorp.com/breakers/UL-DL-Series.html
On 5/28/17 11:24 AM, Josh Baird wrote:
Ok - thanks for the info! It looks like the R-Series breakers are only
for AC, though? On the AC side, I'm thinking of this one:
http://www.alliedelec.com/altech-corp-2du25r/70075748/
I thought you were using R series. I glanced at the picture and
Ok - thanks for the info! It looks like the R-Series breakers are only for
AC, though? On the AC side, I'm thinking of this one:
http://www.alliedelec.com/altech-corp-2du25r/70075748/
Do you have any suggestions for a single-pol 10A DC breaker that I can use
for the BATT side? I'm not finding
On 5/28/17 10:44 AM, Josh Baird wrote:
Ok - so this is what I was thinking. I thought my breakers were rated
for much more current, but it looks like they are only rated for 5A
(both AC [1] and BATT [2]).
In short - I need a breaker that can handle more current, correct? I
have these
Cool, I didn't know that was a thing. I just have a Russian AK-47.
On Sunday, May 28, 2017, Josh Reynolds wrote:
> That would be an AR-10 :)
>
> I've been considering building one.
>
> - Josh
>
> On May 28, 2017 9:32 AM, "David Milholen"
Yes, minimum of 16 amps for the AC and 7.5 for the DC.
And DC breakers are special, do not use an AC breaker on DC.
You can short out both breakers with a jumper for for a short amount of time
until the batts get a bit of a charge. Probably only take a few minutes.
From: Josh Baird
Ok - so this is what I was thinking. I thought my breakers were rated for
much more current, but it looks like they are only rated for 5A (both AC
[1] and BATT [2]).
In short - I need a breaker that can handle more current, correct? I have
these breakers at a ton of sites.. can't believe I just
360 recommends a 16 amp or greater circuit for the AC.
And it will only make 7.5 amps. Almost any batter discharged that much will
take 100% of that 7.5 amps when starting to charge. I would set the battery
circuit breaker to be higher than 7.5 amps to prevent this problem.
From: Josh Baird
A 48 volt battery discharged down to 42 volts will be a very very heavy load
for whatever is attempting to charge it.
A TSP 600-148 will only make 12.5 amps max.
Your battery could easily want 25 or 50 amps for the first 10 seconds. It will
taper off to zero as it comes up to charge, but
This site has about 180-200W of load. The TSP power supply is 360W. I
know the BCM has about a ~55W overhead for charging, so that should still
leave plenty of headroom, wouldn't you think?
On Sun, May 28, 2017 at 1:19 PM, Bill Prince wrote:
> Might be as simple as your
Might be as simple as your AC circuit is too small for the whole load.
The key questions are (1) What is the load of your equipment?, and (2)
What is the bulk charge load on your controller?
Add those two together to understand what the total load should be.
bp
On Sun May 28 2017 10:32, Jaime Solorza wrote:
> God bless and thanks for serving...Jaime
+100 and thank you.
--
Larry Smith
lesm...@ecsis.net
I have a site with a TSP+BCM 48V combo. Last night, something caused the
AC breaker to trip, putting the site on battery. We didn't see the alert
until about 12 hours later. At this point, the batteries were down to
~42V. When our guy arrived on site, he reset the AC breaker, and AC power
was
That would be an AR-10 :)
I've been considering building one.
- Josh
On May 28, 2017 9:32 AM, "David Milholen" wrote:
> I have an AR15-7.62 with red dot and a whole bunch of knives.. Oh and a
> cool tent.
>
> Ill just post up outside and setup the guard post :)
>
>
>
> On
God bless and thanks for serving...Jaime
I have an AR15-7.62 with red dot and a whole bunch of knives.. Oh and a
cool tent.
Ill just post up outside and setup the guard post :)
On 5/26/2017 4:45 PM, Lewis Bergman wrote:
I don't have an RPG but I do have an isreali tavor with both a thermal
scope and a red dot. Can I get in?
On
+1 Ours have been working for 2yrs or more.
On 5/27/2017 12:27 PM, George Skorup wrote:
We bought a bunch of 4' LED tubes for our office. They were like $8-9
each. I don't remember the brand or where we bought them. Built-in
transformer, so you just bypass or cut out the ballast and wire them
+1
And yes you are correct about driver failure.
My father builds and repairs chicken house lighting controllers capable
of 2 banks of 1500W connections.
Storms keep him real busy in that business and he knows a ton about all
the different LEDs and how they respond
to certain frequencies
Just curious, are these enclosured fixtures?
LED bulbs really don't like running in enclosured fixtures, expecially the
higher wattage equivalent ones.
I also think there are a lot of cheap LED fixtures/bulbs out there which
probably aren't designed correctly. I'd guess the LED shop lights
How dare you apply a label to gender? I'm NOT insulted, but I should be,
apparently.
On Sat, May 27, 2017 at 2:53 PM, Chuck McCown wrote:
> Perhaps verging on politics, but I learned today that my gender is CIS. I
> honestly had no clue
> Since I have a fancy gender
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