we bought the t handled key for it but couldn't get it closed over here.
On Wed, 10 Mar 2010, Lee A. Stone wrote:
>
> Dan,I hafve found the curb shut off two times here over the years
> and the town refuses to install a new one. I have put a tomato paste
> can over the end. the town had
oby [[curb shut-off valve] is easy to get at
> and can be turned off by
> the householder.
>
> Jewel C
> - Original Message -
> From: "Scott Howell"
> To:
> Sent: Tuesday, March 09, 2010 6:49 AM
> Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Shark Bite Inline
Dan,I hafve found the curb shut off two times here over the years
and the town refuses to install a new one. I have put a tomato paste
can over the end. the town had put in a shut off valve which stuck up
a little. that round piece about maybe 3inches across? well two
times I hit
Here in New Zealand, the road toby [[curb shut-off valve] is easy to get at and
can be turned off by
the householder.
Jewel C
- Original Message -
From: "Scott Howell"
To:
Sent: Tuesday, March 09, 2010 6:49 AM
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Shark Bite Inline Valve
Hi Dan, I know where the curb shutoff is, but I understand a special tool is
required to turn off the water. What I can't recall is how to repack the valve
without having the water off. My hope is to fix this once and for all so I can
reduce the massive hole in the wall where the meter and valve
: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Shark Bite Inline Valves
Dave, that is very interesting that you mention that. Does copper rust
though? That is the one reason why I like plastic piping over copper is it
rusted. I had one pipe so bad in an apartment that I came home
Scott,
I had the same issue, where my main shut-off was leaking slightly. I
tried to get it changed, but ended up not being able to. I wasn't going
to touch it myself, an 80 year old valve and pipe, no way. So I got a
plumber. Unfortunately, the plumber was unable to get the curb box valve
Rust? Copper does not rust. It will oxidize on exposed surfaces, but that
oxidization actually "protects" the metal from further such degradation.
Makes me if your situation was using some sort of alloy or some inappropriate
joints.
Holland's Person, Bill
- "Be careful about reading health
This does make sense and in my case they only had the heavy-duty PVC line.
THis stuff is really tough and is probably 3 or 4 times thicker and larger than
the previous line. In fact the water now blasts through the line as compared to
the crappy thin thing that was on there.
thanks,
On Mar 7,
THanks Jim, that is very helpful.
On Mar 7, 2010, at 3:06 PM, jim wrote:
> i am doing some re plumbing also.
> for a caliper i used a bar clamp and just measured between the jaw pads.
> Jim
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
[Non-text portions of this message have
Thanks for the info and from what I have been told at least in this area is
everything from the curb-cock to the house is my problem. Yes, the meter itself
is their problem, but anything from the curb to the meter, and beyond the meter
is my problem. SO, that means both gate valves are my proble
THanks, that is what I wanted, a T connection. Just could not seem to recall
what I wanted. Well yeah, I think I even have one of those caliper things
around here. In any case, I am not fond of the saddle valve and considering how
this one is designed, it's got to go.
Thanks,
On Mar 7, 2010, at
ge -
From: Blaine Deutscher
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sunday, March 07, 2010 11:41 PM
Subject: Re: [BlindHandyMan] Shark Bite Inline Valves
Dave, that is very interesting that you mention that. Does copper rust
though? That is the one reason why I like plastic p
the
pipe and with running the tap and draining there was water going into the
cubbord and onto the floor. It was messy.
Blaine
- Original Message -
From: Dave Andrus
To: blindhandyman@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sunday, March 07, 2010 9:00 PM
Subject: RE: [BlindHandyMan] Shark Bite Inline Valves
Hi Scott,
I do not like those saddle valves as in my oppinion they do not let enough
volume of water go through to properly run an ice maker. As Dale mentioned,
putting in a t and from the t run the valve is the best. When I have had to
do this, of course I don't do the sweating of the pipes but
The valves at the meter are typically the responsibility of the city or town
you pay for water. It's their meter thus their responsibility.
The trouble with the fridge line is that line is a quarter inch. Most lines in
the house are going to be 3 quarters or a half inch. You can find compress
i am doing some re plumbing also.
for a caliper i used a bar clamp and just measured between the jaw pads.
Jim
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Replacing the saddle valve should be fine. You may prefer to buy a higher
quality one but like you I am not all that thrilled with them.
The correct way to do what you wish to do is to insert a 'T' connection then a
valve on the branch then on to the fridge.
I don't have any experience with th
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