5200 may be the best adhesive ever invented. For that reason, I never use it
(bad experience).
From: David Paine via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, January 25, 2017 2:54 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: David Paine
Subject: Re: Stus-List Tearing out (parts of) the interior (33-i)/insulating
with
Agreed. In all likelihood it’s the annoying but relatively harmless C&C smile.
From: Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, January 25, 2017 5:32 PM
To: mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Della Barba, Joe
Subject: Re: Stus-List 1979 C&C 38 MKII -(Restored) Needs Keel Work
I fixed my “ke
Joe,
I just added a start battery under Touché's aft dinette seat. I had
replaced the rigid fresh water tank with a bladder tank years ago. I slid
the tank outboard to create space for the battery. The install can be seen
here:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B_sb5TfIENvsRXJSOE02WG5ReXM/view?
ABYC doesn’t get any more specific than the verbiage below. The amount of
out-gassing is usually pretty small, unless your charger is overcharging the
batteries; but hydrogen sulfide gas can be corrosive, so I’d tend to keep it
away from the diesel if you can. The vents on the tops of the ABYC
The prospects of lithium technology are very encouraging. Near 100%
charge/discharge efficiency. Lightweight. Energy dense. Maybe just drag
your feet on this project until the price comes down and the boat kitty has
grown.
>
>
>
> Josh Muckley
>
> S/V Sea Hawk
>
> 1989 C
Here are most of the requirements:
> ABYC Standard E-10.6. Storage Batteries - Installation
>
> Batteries shall be secured against shifting.
>
> Each installed battery shall not move more than one (1) inch in any direction
> when a pulling force of ninety (90) pounds
>
> or twice the battery w
I’ve used a pressure washer inside the bilge. It works, but be prepared for
some overspray. I turned my 4000psi washer down to just under 2000psi. It
does a heck of a job, but can damage wiring, paint, and bilge pump switches if
you’re not careful.
Use in the engine compartment is fine, a
After 20+ years my battery boxes were in pretty sad shape. The tie downs were
fine underneath them and I use AGM Northstar Group 31? Batteries. Pitched the
worthless battery boxes, tied each battery down to the tie downs and sailed on.
With secure tie downs and AGM batteries, see no need for bat
What is the exact requirement for a battery box? Not "good practices" but
specific requirements? Battery boxes are always so bulky and inefficient.
But a glassed in plywood box can be made to fit very exacting and efficient
spaces.
Alternatively you could just do AGM 6v golf cart batteries.
Bot
Welcome, Allan.
Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C&C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC
On 25 January 2017 at 08:40, Allan Hester via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Hi,
>
> Please post my email to the list. Thank you.
>
>
> allanhes...@hotmail.com
>
>
>
> Fro
I fixed my “keel separation” with a big socket wrench for free. Are you sure
the hull is coming apart vs. loose keel bolts, i.e the C&C smile?
Joe
Coquina
Btw – first kid on the way, fix your boat and you get this!
http://www.dellabarba.com/sailing/images/noah093x.JPG
good luck with whatever you
I am thinking of switching over to golf cart batteries and am going nuts trying
to figure out where to put them. I think 2 might maybe fit the standard battery
compartment, but they might be too high. No way 4 fit in there. Also that is
not including the battery containers, which are needed for
Tim. Where is boat located. I am in NYC. Jerry
Sent from my iPhone
> On Jan 25, 2017, at 4:55 PM, tprice--- via CnC-List
> wrote:
>
> 1979 C&C 38MKII
>
> I’ve Spent two years restoring my 79 C&C 38 MKII. Been sailing for three
> seasons, second owner. Ran into an issue with the Keel, som
1979 C&C 38MKII
I’ve Spent two years restoring my 79 C&C 38 MKII. Been sailing for three
seasons, second owner. Ran into an issue with the Keel, some separation at the
hull, could be keel bolts, but will require attention and some fiberglass both
of which I sadly, don't have the time to invest.
Thanks. The more I look at it the messier it gets. I'm on a mooring and
live on solar power so this has to be better than what I could do by
shooting foam into empty space between the inset and the cabinet. I know
that I have a moulded insert like Dennis describes. I know this because
when I
Hi David,
When I insulated the ice box in our C&C 27, I couldn’t imagine pulling it all
apart. I drilled a rows of holes where I would later rivet in an aluminum 1/2’
"angle iron”, and used the two-part foam from Tab Plastic. They have a unit
you wear, and mixing tips - buy several. Months
David,
Did you read this? http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/doityourself/refrigeration
Don't know how the reefer cabinetry in your 33-1 is made but in my 35-1
it's a large molded insert. Removing the fiddle rails just exposed the top
of the molded insert. There was no joint under the rails. My budd
Congrats Matthew! It appears you don't do laundry at home. What's your
secret? ;-)
Dave
Sent from my iPhone
> On Jan 25, 2017, at 5:50 PM, Matthew L. Wolford wrote:
>
> I discovered something by accident a few years ago. I decided to clean the
> cruddy, old freshwater tank on my 34 by p
I discovered something by accident a few years ago. I decided to clean the
cruddy, old freshwater tank on my 34 by putting in some water and a gallon of
Clorox and letting it slosh around. I discovered a day or two later that the
tank had leaked and nearly all the contents had drained into the
Hi,
Please post my email to the list. Thank you.
allanhes...@hotmail.com
From: CnC-List [cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] on behalf of
cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com [cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com]
Sent: January 25, 2017 4:32 PM
To: allanhes...@hotmail.c
When I pulled the transmission in my Hylas, it took a gasket scraper to
clean the bilge. Not sure a wash would have done anything to remove the
crud, and the bilge pump probably would have clogged.
I would worry about water getting into the air intake and electrical
connections that are in the bi
I have been thinking of using a small power washer to clean my engine and bilge
prior to re-painting my Beta 28. Of course I need to seal the alternator and
the plug that connects the engine electrics to the starting panel before
I begin blasting away with the washer.
I could never reach som
I used citrus cleaner - works great.
Dave
Sent from my iPhone
> On Jan 25, 2017, at 11:37 AM, Jake Brodersen wrote:
>
> Bev,
>
> Simple Green and Purple Power are my two favorite cleaners. Joel has had
> some good success with citrus based cleaners too. Simple Green and citrus
> are prob
We had garhauer modify some of their sheaves for Perception's 3 forward
halyards, as their stock were just slightly too wide, the aft 2 the stock fit
fine. One benefit is the new sheaves do not rub the aluminum mast head casting.
The sheaves I removed had chef sharp knife edges from rubbing on t
I bev,
when I bought the current boat it had probably the most dissuading bilge I've
ever encountered. It was actually a storage compartment for some of the
nastiest smelling sludge I've had to deal with, almost a gel!
So after removing that, i used bleach and a scrub brush. Dave here on t
On the topic of sheaves...mine were non-operational when I purchased my boat
in December 2013; before raising the mast, I took the sheaves apart and used a
fine Emory cloth on both the sheaves and the axle bar; the main now goes up and
down easily. I had planned to but a track slider system, b
Bev,
Simple Green and Purple Power are my two favorite cleaners. Joel has had some
good success with citrus based cleaners too. Simple Green and citrus are
probably two of the most earth-friendly cleaners, but always dispose of your
cleaning solutions responsibly.
Jake
Jake Broders
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