I'll second Josh's concern with a point of actual experience. Corsair's
initial survey (1996) indicated that the Starboard upper shroud chain
plate showed indications of water damage and the holes were elongated.
The survey recommendation was to glass in the bulkhead, on both sides,
and add
I just did the deck on Imzadi, my 38. I selected the paint and process after
seeing the results of a deck repaint on a friend's Tartan 37. The process was
essentially painless and took less than a week start to finish. Though I'm sure
it was not as elaborate as the process you are considering.
Hi,
I painted the deck on my 29-2 last year. Absolutely massive job. One I likely
wouldn’t take on again. Like any painting project, the preparation aka sanding
is the most important thing. I come from a cabinetmaking background and have
spent plenty of time sanding. I still found this to be a
I've used Brightside, Easypoxy and Rustoleum Marine paint over the years on my
old boats.
Somewhat surprisingly, at least in the Florida sun, the winner by far is
Rustoleum. It holds up well, does not stain easily and, when you have a
problem, it's simple to touch up. I have one hatch painted
I need to paint my deck too and I'm not so crazy about Perfection as it is a
two part paint and the flattening agent is another two part additive making it
a tedious process. You have to mix four chemicals to get one paint to apply.
I've seen decks painted with single part Briteside and it's
The hardest part is going to be gaining access to the area. Other than
that it should be a pretty standard job of cutting out the bad and
replacing with new then glassing it in with the appropriate tabbing. If
the picture I've created in my mind is correct then the chain plate is
connected to
I have the same sensors on my 37+ and was able to make new sensors
just by replacing the wires. Josh is correct, they aren't the highest
quality sensors in the world, but they do work and are very inexpensive to
repair. On my boat I found two problems:
1. The wiring to the connector that
Has anyone tried new glass?Nice gloss, makes the hull look new.Jim schwartz C
38LF Washington nc
Original message From: Eric Frank via CnC-List
Date: 4/23/18 2:43 PM (GMT-05:00) To:
cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Eric Frank Subject: Re:
After uncovering my C 33 for the season, I found some rust in the cabin under
the forward chainplate which holds the lower shroud. Upon further
investigation, I found rot (finger piercing) in the bulkhead area inside the
head compartment over the toilet, between the chainplate and the hull. Am
Mike,
I redid the decks on my boat last year. Although I used Awlgrip/Awlcraft
products I give you some idea of what I found encountered.
I was originally going to use Cloud White for the decks but the Awlgrip guys
said that Matterhorn White was their best selling product. It has a bit of grey
Hi there-
I am planning to paint the deck and have few questions for those that have gone
before me. I plan to use Perfection with Kiwigrip. I did a sample locker lid
with Snow White Perfection and White KiwiGrip. The Perfection is a bit too
white/reflective. I’d rather use a different shade
Bruce,
Yes, people on this list have very different opinions about PoliGlow - my
experience has been favorable. I’ve been using it every spring since buying
Cat's Paw (bright red hull) in 2009 with good results. If there is a haze
anywhere, Poliglow does not get rid of that, as the directions
I had some luck with diesel fuel tank cleaner made by starbrite. I would also
run a small 12v pump on the far side of the racor, recirculating the fuel back
to the tank. I found a pretty cheap one online. Of course, the larger/faster
the pump, the more stuff it *may* suck up off the bottom.
I have a vacuum gauge on my fuel filter. You can plump these to be visible from
the helm. It will give you advanced warning that the filter is clogging up and
also confirm that is actually the problem. For better troubleshooting, you can
use 2 - one before and one after the filter. That way you
All,
Last year my engine shut down 2 times and have concluded I need to clean out
the diesel tank. I had very old fuel [3+ years] in the tank after several
years of very low usage and topping up the tank prior to winter storage
which was the cause of the 1st shut down. Most of that fuel was
My experience with Polyglow was poor. Initially it looked good.
Unfortunately, it soon showed lots of dark pollution streaks on a light
colored surface. It was difficult to remove.
Fred Hazzard
S/V Fury
C 44
Portland, Or
On Mon, Apr 23, 2018 at 7:09 AM Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List <
Hello all,
I have historically had very good experience with PoliGlow in the Chicago area
- 16 years, as a matter of fact. That said, for some reason here in Florida,
people swear at the stuff (rather than swearing by it). They say it yellows
and is nearly impossible to remove. I don't know
Those level sensors are absolute crap. Immersion in the water inevitably
means corrosion of the wires and bands. Even if you get them working it
won't be a lasting repair. I moved to a capacitance sensor system that
doesn't penetrate the tanks. It's the iSeries made by TechEdge.
I discovered last fall that my boat actually has sensors in the three water
tanks. There are small lights on the panel and double/triple throw switches
that appear to allow you to turn it on and switch from tank sensor to tank
sensor. I think the lights correspond to 1/4, 1/2, 3/4, full , but
Maybe. I didn't perceive that from your original description. If it
doesn't terminate in the presence of the suction from the air intake then
even the oil drop out canister won't be able to fix the problem.
Josh
On Mon, Apr 23, 2018, 9:26 AM David Knecht via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
The spinnakers are symmetrical. - Ron
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Gary Russell
via CnC-List
Sent: Sunday, April 22, 2018 8:05 PM
To: C List
Cc: Gary Russell
Subject: Re: Stus-List C 37+ Sails for Sale
Ron,
Are the spinnakers symetrical or asym?
Hi Josh- I don’t have a port on the side of the air intake. The orginal hose
was just dangling nearby. I notice that there is a small wire loop near the
air intake opening that is about the right size for the tubing. Perhaps it was
originally held in place by that? Dave
> On Apr 23, 2018,
Like others, I believe the vanes will orient themselves once the pump is
used. I've never bothered to orient them.
I understand completely about changing the impeller in the Sherwood pump.
After changing the impeller on my Sherwood pump, I noticed it was leaking
slightly at the shaft.
After
Dave,
The can only has 2 lines that enter at the top. As you observed one comes
from the valve cover. The other goes to the original port on the side of
the air intake. The 2 hoses that appear to be coming from the bottom are
engine raw water running to a loop seal which is mounted on the wall
There is one way to compare different techniques and products and I would
be willing to sacrifice my deck to a side by side comparison. Everyone side
by side this Saturday. I will judge and not interfere with technique.
S/V La Neige
1993 C 37/40 XL
Havre de Grace , MD
FB blog : thenext14years
Hi Josh- Thanks for the info. This looks like a fairly straightforward mod
which should clean up the oil. I see the line running from the valve cover to
your new canister. There are two other lines attached to the canister. The
one on the bottom I am presuming is a drain. Where does the
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