Hi Mark.
I sail with lots of rake, at least 12 inches. I really see the difference when
returning to upwind and I’ve forgot to haul in the back stay tensioner. I have
found in addition to your comments, crew positions are extremely important in
both heavy and light air but overall I sill have
All good points.
quote "coming in fast on STBD..."
Many times I miss Wally too. VBGs were common in the ol' days.
Cheers, Russ
ex - Sweet 35 mk-1
At 06:58 PM 8/20/2018, you wrote:
Content-Type: multipart/alternative;
boundary="=_NextPart_000_0006_01D438D0.F8AA4B50
Looks like an Otto Pilot should be responsible!
> On Aug 20, 2018, at 6:58 PM, Rick Brass via CnC-List
> wrote:
>
> The fact that the headsail on the J/105 is rolled out implies that he was
> sailing, thus he would have had right of way.
>
> If the J/105 was motor sailing, the power boat was
If you have a Boomkicker, get rid of the topping lift completely. One fewer
thing to remember when you set sail.
Before you remove it completely, maybe try moving it to the mast and not using
it for a while to figure out if that works for you. If you remove it (fewer
lines to worry about, less
For whatever it is worth, this is the reason why I choose Opti Lube. YMMV
https://www.dieselplace.com/forum/76-speciality-forums/64-maintenance-fluids/177728-lubricity-additive-study-results.html#/topics/177728
Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD
On Mon, Aug 20, 2018, 10:29 PM R
The 72’ schooner I used to captain was listed on POP Yachts for year and a
half with nary an inquiry. It finally sold due to a listing in Boats and
Harbors magazine. A local rep associated with Pop Yachts was at the Oriental
Boat Show last spring. On his list was a C&C 38 LF at a decent price,
When I retired from doing technical training in the forklift industry (and
being a certified Cummins and Yanmar tech), Yanmar, Cummins, Perkins, and
Mitsubishi were all recommending the Stanadyne Lubricity additive for engines
built prior to the Tier III(? Or maybe IV) diesels (about 2008-2010
Just to throw another variable in the mix, I don't use a biocide. Maybe
I've just gotten lucky but I've never had a problem and simply keep the
tank "fresh" by keeping it low and constantly topping it up little by
little, 5 gallon can at a time through a filter funnel. Basically my
mantra is, kee
The 29-2 that my friend had was set up with a single block with becket and cam
cleat on the bottom, and a single block on the end of the topping lift wire,
and the line used was either ¼” or 5/16” dacron.
After all, the topping lift is only there to support the weight of the boom and
main w
The fact that the headsail on the J/105 is rolled out implies that he was
sailing, thus he would have had right of way.
If the J/105 was motor sailing, the power boat was on his starboard bow, and
would have had right of way.
In either case Rule 2 says you need to do everything possible,
Thank you for all of the quick replies.
I assumed there was too much stress as the cheek block is pulling away from the
boom. This was from the previous owner.
I was considering removing it all together since I have a boom kicker but since
it was rigged with both when I got it, I left it
Run away! They are not exactly scam artists, but they are far from
professional. No one in their right mind would buy a boat through them, which
means lots of hassle for you, the seller.
Andy
Andrew Burton
61 W Narragansett
Newport, RI
USA02840
http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyac
would like to remove it myself from a 29-2. there are probably 30 years of
paint on it. what is the best method?___
Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and
every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support th
Kevin,
I was contacted by Pop Yachts shortly after listing my boat on another web
site. They seem genuine, but the online reviews I have read haven’t painted a
very good picture. A lot of one start ratings. Evidently they mark the price
up to make their profit, but if you get your bottom
Ron,
I use the performance formula. It supposedly increases lubricity, as well as
increasing the cetane rating. I’ve used it for over 20 years and have no
complaints. I use it in my boats and my Duramax powered diesel Suburban.
Jake
Jake Brodersen
C&C 35 Mk-III “Midnight Mistress”
Graham ,
I got rid of the cheek blocks 18 years ago. They didn't serve any useful
function. I go directly from the genoa car to either the primary or secondary
winches. The lead angles are almost the same, and they're quite good, even
with the genoa car full forward for the #3 jib.
Midnight
>From past emails I reviewed, I noted that Stanadyne and Biofor JR are the
>additives of majority choice.One question, which Stanadyne formula are folks
>using, the Lubricity or Performance formula? And does one formula cover both
>performance and lubricity?RonWild CheriC&C 30-1STL
All
Pop Yachts sold a C&C 35 that was in Savannah to Dennis C's buddy Kevin a
couple of of month ago. The former owner has no complaints beyond having
said that he gave the boat away.
I knew the boat and truly felt that Kevin over paid at the time, but it did
sell quickly.
Best regards,
Jack Fit
Hi Bruce,
FYI, Photos of our idler plate replacement are still on the website. The link
is listed on the main page of
http://cncphotoalbum.com/
> On August 20, 2018 at 3:23 PM Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List
> wrote:
>
> Hello all,
>
> This issue has been brought up numerous times, but
Ever heard of Pop Yachts?
Bill Coleman
C&C 39 Erie, PA
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Kevin Paxton
via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, August 20, 2018 5:04 PM
To: cnc-list Cnc-List
Cc: Kevin Paxton
Subject: Stus-List Pop yachts
Hey everyone
As you saw
Hey everyone
As you saw I just posted my '82 34 for sale yesterday. Today I got a
message from Pop yachts in FL asking if I would like them to market my
vessel and tack their fee on top of the sale price.
Has anyone has any experience with these guys? Are they reputable?
Anything I should know ab
Colin-
Will send a pic of my 29-2 this weekend is helpful. Just had all the running
rigging replaced this summer.
R
Tom
S/V Therapy
Solomon Islands MD
Sent from my iPhone
> On Aug 19, 2018, at 8:41 PM, Colin A. Flock via CnC-List
> wrote:
>
> Does anyone have a picture of a standard toppin
Hello all,
This issue has been brought up numerous times, but bears repeating. Had it not
been for a number of the folk here on the board, I would not have known to
check the idler plate. Here's a couple photos of ours:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/kraaoftygwm02ie/Idler%20Plate%20%231.jpg?dl=0
Bruce,
It cracked due to crevasse corrosion. Good idea to inspect annually.
Chuck Gilchrest
S/V Half Magic
1983 35 Landfall
Sent from my iPhone
> On Aug 20, 2018, at 3:03 PM, Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List
> wrote:
>
> As a few posters here know, I am in the process of replacing the idler pl
As a few posters here know, I am in the process of replacing the idler plate
on my 1994 C&C 37/40+. During the process of pulling the binnacle and going
through it, I found one of the links in the chain had a crack/break in it.
Here's a photo:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/jaejlvvl2zsq7f4/Steering%
If your racing then you want to use a gauge, especially if you pull the mast
every season. I just had my rig tuned by Port Townsend Rigging and I asked
lots of questions regarding tensioning rod rigging..For a cruising boat. They
set the rig so there is some bend aft, mast is straight and cente
Loos PT-2 and 1/4" wire?
Just a starting point put uppers at 36 and lowers at 32 on the gauge.
If you get out on a windy day with normal sail plan point up to where you are
comfortable
and check how much tension is left in the lee shrouds. They should still be
snug but will flex
with some pr
Good Point Dennis I have an old wire Topping lift as well which is similar to
original photo where rope adjustment runs thru old UV damaged (shot) block. so
I will have a look at this if I ever get Halcyon sailing again ! this spreader
tip issue is Killing me ! ☹
Another note is your mini track
Colin,
My setup is much like yours but without the purchase. A couple thoughts:
- Why do you think that there is too much stress on the cheek block? Is it
difficult to operate the topper? I have a similar block which I believe is
rated at 500lbs. There are times when I pull down against my top
I’m pretty sure I saw these at some point but cannot locate them again in the
archives:
I am looking for the recommended number value for (cruising) stay tensions for
a C&C 30 MKI (1974).
There is widespread, ample discussion of tuning stays on the Internet. I am
interested now in specific reco
Colin,
First, as a suggestion, it is not the best practice to sail with a wire
topping lift. The wire can abrade the stitches in your main sail
necessitating repair.
I use an entirely different configuration on my 35-1 although topping lifts
are fairly generic for older boats. See this pic:
ht
Try this: http://smartplug.com/service-kits/
or this: http://smartplug.com/contact-page/
Ken H.
On Sun, 19 Aug 2018 at 15:55, ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> I need a new strain relief for my Smartplug. Does anyone have a contact
> number for the company, or a source
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