Getting the shaft out of the coupler is turning out to be quite a trick.
I'm using a large socket in the center of the coupler to act as a spacer.
Then I'm using the coupler bolts to act as clamps and draw tights against
the socket. I have lots of penetrating oil in just about every location
imagi
Interesting about the 5/16 on the 30-1. My 35-2 are definitely 1/4", oval
head philips machine screws, and the 2" length sounds correct.
--
Shawn Wright
shawngwri...@gmail.com
S/V Callisto, 1974 C&C 35
https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto
___
Thanks ever
I am not saying please and asking you nicely to trim your messages if replying
to a previous email. I have asked and asked and every day I get messages
rejected because they are too large.
Next time you get some messages from the list, don’t just read the message but
read all the way to the bo
Try disconnecting the wire to the oil pressure sensor. The sensor could be
stuck. If that cures it, replace the sensor.
Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR
On Sun, May 31, 2020 at 2:32 PM Nate Flesness via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> Our 1980 30-1 has the ori
We just bought a Minn Kota trolling motor for our Walker Bay 8 hard dinghy.
As I didn't have time to source fancy batteries, I just got a Gr 24 deep
cycle lead acid for now. Planning to charge it using a smart 2/8/15A
charger powered by an inverter and our house bank (4 6V GC2 batteries),
which wil
As one who has replaced many of these bolts, I checked today just to make sure.
The ones I have are 5/16 x 2 inch. Just having used that same diameter on my
exhaust manifold, I think you could substitute an 8mm bolt. My toe rail bolts
are a mix of flat head and oval head Philips style. I replace
Hi
I’m new owner of Sapphire (formally Kaylarah capt. Gary, and it’s a great boat)
Does anyone have experience replacing the bow chocks on a 37/40, the current
setup does not allow for easy on / off of mooring ride.
Thanks
Rob
Sent from my iPhone
___
Hi Shawn,
Thanks for the note. Yes it is a 74 35Mk2, you have good eyes.
I had my float switch broken and had the water up to almost the top of the
bilge...a winter season where I did not pay much attention to the water
level through the winter, as I thought it was all “waterproof”. I guess
that
Gremlins
Sent from my iPhone
On May 31, 2020, at 5:47 PM, Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List
wrote:
Ghosts or Demons
At 02:31 PM 5/31/2020, you wrote:
Message: 5
Date: Sun, 31 May 2020 16:31:06 -0500
From: Nate Flesness
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List instrument panel idiot light
On second look at your photo, it doesn't look like a 35, or if it is, your
sole is different. The area you have indicated as steel is I believe the
thick layers of glass that C&C used to reinforce the hull at each keel stud
in the earlier boats. The later boats seem to use a more modern grid
layout
Ghosts or Demons
At 02:31 PM 5/31/2020, you wrote:
Message: 5
Date: Sun, 31 May 2020 16:31:06 -0500
From: Nate Flesness
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List instrument panel idiot light BUZZER going on
cyclically, all switches OFF
Message-ID:
Content-Type: text/plai
Our 1980 30-1 has the original 2QM15 and instrument panel. Last night on
the mooring, the warning buzzer above the usual three idiot lights started
going off, intermittently - 15 or so seconds on, 15 or so seconds off,
repeat. The big red switch was OFF, the ignition switch was OFF with the
key on
Is this a 35? Looks very similar to my '74 35 mk2, and yes it is wood, but
glassed to at least 1/2 way up, presumably on both sides, which should help
to protect it to a degree. I expect that replacing the wood will be a
rather big job due to limited access, and unless you cut into the liner,
there
We have a torqeedo and a Mecury 6 hp 4 stroke, both from the prior owner of our
boat, so I've compared them side-by-side. The 6 hp can get our 10 ft.
PortaBote up on plane 13 kts., and with a separate tank has a really, really
long run time. Downside? Small gasoline engines require fresh fuel
Be interested to hear other comments.
Sent from my iPhone
On May 31, 2020, at 2:03 PM, General Gao via CnC-List
wrote:
Hi everyone,
Just had an insurance surveyor come over to the boat today, it is "generally"
good, but the surveyor did find one thing that he suggested me to verify with
t
Hi everyone,
Just had an insurance surveyor come over to the boat today, it is
"generally" good, but the surveyor did find one thing that he suggested me
to verify with the marina manager (who has the same boat as mine, 1974 C&C
Mk2). Please refer to the picture attached.
https://drive.google.com
I looked hard at that one at Annapolis boat show last year Super light nice
affordable package. No where near the power of the torquedo Though
There is one other I also really liked will look for the brochure.
John Conklin
S/V Halcyon
S/V Heartbeat
www.flirtingwithfire.com
On May 31, 2020, at
Despite the extra cost, I am starting to like the idea of an electric. I also
found this motor: EP Carry (https://www.electricpaddle.com/index.html). It is
made in the US, slightly cheaper and lighter than the Torqeedo but otherwise
seem functionally equivalent. A bit less high tech and less
Yep Torqeudo next for me for sure (if I don’t find a used 2.5 or something) I
have a LEHR 9.9 I M happy to sell my back Just can’t quite handle that one.
Just had a long discussion with a guy at town dock he loves it!! And charges up
easily from his solar panel
John Conklin
S/V Halcyon
S/V Hea
Consider replacing with an electric. I got a Torqueedo 1103S for my dinghy (9ft
Zodiac rib). The motor with battery is around 38 lbs but disassembles and the
battery can be installed after you put the motor on the boat. Quiet, no fuel,
no mess, No smell, runs every time as long as you charge it.
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