Re: Stus-List replacing Teak and Holly sole

Thanks All for the tips From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of William Walker via CnC-List Sent: Tuesday, January 26, 2016 4:10 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: wwadjo...@aol.com Subject: Re: Stus-List replacing Teak and Holly sole Mike, I did the sole replacement

Re: Stus-List replacing Teak and Holly sole

I like the idea of gluing a 1/2" strip of solid teak across the grain on the edges. It will help keep the veneer from chipping. I hope to retrofit mine that way this year. You can thin the epoxy with acetone and put it on in thin coats. I guess things will work OK in the cold garage, but I would

Re: Stus-List replacing Teak and Holly sole

I refinished mine several years ago and also had trouble getting the epoxy to flow. I didn't thin it. Now I know. I think the clear hardener only comes in 1 "speed". For the visible surface, you want the clear. Joel 35/3 Annapolis On Tue, Jan 26, 2016 at 2:51 PM, Andrew Burton via CnC-List <

Re: Stus-List replacing Teak and Holly sole

Mike, I did the sole replacement two years ago on my 36. Some thoughts. I used router with round over bit on back side to get proper radius. I epoxied both sides, using foam roller. Slow cure west system. Good base. I overdrilled fastener holes and filled with thickened epoxy, then

Re: Stus-List replacing Teak and Holly sole

I can't remember the name now but I recall a really thin epoxy available in pint cans that has a flow like linseed oil. EPES (or something like that) is recommended for direct application to new wood because of its penetrating power. This was recommended to me by someone for doing the

Re: Stus-List replacing Teak and Holly sole

I can't remember the name now but I recall a really thin epoxy available in pint cans that has a flow like linseed oil. EPES (or something like that) is recommended for direct application to new wood because of its penetrating power. This was recommended to me by someone for doing the

Re: Stus-List replacing Teak and Holly sole

I can't remember the name now but I recall a really thin epoxy available in pint cans that has a flow like linseed oil. EPES (or something like that) is recommended for direct application to new wood because of its penetrating power. This was recommended to me by someone for doing the

Re: Stus-List replacing Teak and Holly sole

Charlie — I think you’re referring to “CPES”: http://www.smithandcompany.org/CPES/ Fred Street -- Minneapolis S/V Oceanis (1979 C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI :^( > On Jan 26, 2016, at 2:52 PM, Charlie Nelson via CnC-List > wrote: > > I can't remember

Re: Stus-List replacing Teak and Holly sole

Mike, For my second time rebuilding my cabin sole I used the new Awlwood product. It needs fewer coats but is a bit more expensive. I like it but it is more for use on exterior wood as it resists UV better. I was planning on using their Satin finish over the gloss undercoats but got tired of

Re: Stus-List replacing Teak and Holly sole

Yes, that's it. Worked fine for me on my 'under sole'. Charlie Nelson Water Phantom North Carolina Sent from my iPhone > On Jan 26, 2016, at 3:55 PM, Frederick G Street via CnC-List > wrote: > > Charlie — I think you’re referring to “CPES”: > >

Re: Stus-List replacing Teak and Holly sole

I refinished the cabin sole on my 34+ several years ago and used multiple coats of Smith's CPES - Clear Penetrating Epoxy Sealer on the top side, followed by about 6 coats of Epifanes two- part polyurethane. I have been very pleased with the result which is a glossy finish. Since I stripped and