The short red wire connects power from one fuse to the other instead of
having two longer leads from the power source. Definitely replace the fuse
holders. I recommend replacing the fuse holders with fuse holders from an
automotive parts store, if you can mount them close to the power source..
I finally managed to reduce the files size sufficiently.
On Mon, Mar 9, 2020, 23:42 David Knecht via CnC-List
wrote:
> My main breaker has a rotary switch (now replaced with a Blue Seas
> selector switch) and four fuses running from positive power to the main
> electrical panel. Most of the
Dave,
Philosophically, the MRBF fuse should protect the wire from the battery to
through the switch to the PowerPost. That wire should be sized to handle
the maximum load on the PowerPost. If you run individual wires to each
fuse, that fuse should be sized to protect that circuit and its
Hi Dennis- That makes sense. I also have MRBF fuses on both batteries, so I
could presumably do the same. It would certainly simplify the wiring to just
connect that heavy battery cable at the panel end to a Powerpost and run from
that to the various circuits. I am never confident about
The PowerPost is about halfway between the battery switch and breaker
panel. Less than 3 foot runs each. The PowerPost is essentially fused
because there are MRBF fuse blocks on the battery positive posts.
Therefore, whether the battery switch is on "1" or "2", there is a fuse
prior to the
Hi Dennis- I just wanted to clarify your reply. The Powerpost Plus looks like
a nice way to distribute power and I had not seen that. Do you have that near
the main rotary switch or near the breaker panel? I gather this is not fused,
so if I simplified the wiring by bypassing the fuses and
One reason to use a fuse in addition to a breaker is to protect smaller
gauge wire. In many panels (like mine) breakers are 15A, which would
require all wire runs to be 10-12ga (maybe 8ga on larger boats for long
runs) in order to supply 15A without wire damage. Of course, C didn't use
this size
Dave,
Piggybacking the supply from one fuse to another is pretty common,
especially in older boats. Just need to ensure the proper wire size to
carry the load to all the users. Pre-made breaker panels have a solid buss
bar which carries the power supply to each breaker. The piggyback wiring
is
I understand the wiring in general and how the circuit works. I am not sure
what the logic is to have created the double crimp tabs in order to bridge
power from one fuse to the other. I get that each fuse will function for the
circuit that goes to the panel. What I am unclear on is
#1, why
The picture in the link is from the 37+ owners manual.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/12GshyA1uSJNWQRhNVQ9GhTw14v10ZDV7/view?usp=drivesdk
Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD
On Mon, Mar 9, 2020, 23:42 David Knecht via CnC-List
wrote:
> My main breaker has a rotary switch (now
. Doug
Mountjoysv Rebecca Leah C Landfall 39Port Orchard yacht club
Original message From: David Knecht via CnC-List
Date: 3/9/20 20:41 (GMT-08:00) To: CnC CnC discussion
list Cc: David Knecht Subject:
Stus-List Fuse replacement and wiring My main breaker has a rotary switch
My main breaker has a rotary switch (now replaced with a Blue Seas selector
switch) and four fuses running from positive power to the main electrical
panel. Most of the fuse holders are corroded so I am considering replacing
them, but I am not sure I understand the fuse holders or the logic of
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