CnC CnC discussion list"
Cc: "David Knecht"
Sent: Monday, October 5, 2015 9:04:52 AM
Subject: Stus-List self-tailing winch problem
We raced yesterday in 20+ knot winds and I found that the Barient 28 self
tailing winches were both slipping in the self-tailer making it hard to brin
Maybe the knurling would help but 1/2 inch sheets would help too and if you
use slippery braid for sheets it will work better after it gets weathered
for a few seasons, alternatively buy 1/2 inch lines made to be used as
genoa sheets
Dwight Veinot
C&C 35 MKII, *Alianna*
Head of St. Margaret's Bay,
: Re: Stus-List self-tailing winch problem
Hi Josh- great info!
On Oct 5, 2015, at 10:08 AM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List
wrote:
David,
The screws which Joel mentioned are, from my experience, a type of cap screw.
You might want to remove them one at a time and lube them with tef-gel, or
anti
Here is a link to the diagram. 4 screws, not 3.
http://l-36.com/winches_pages.php?winch=bar28_stw.htm
I have 7/16 Sta-Set. 3 wraps and the tailer does not slip. The drums are
smooth aluminum.
Joel
On Mon, Oct 5, 2015 at 12:24 PM, Charles Nelson via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
If your winches have seen a lot of use, I suggest you have them knurled.
Mine (Lewmar STs #30 and #50) had ~ 15 years of use and I had them re-knurled
with a simple vertical 'scoring' pattern of 'medium' harshness for $30 each.
Too much 'harshness' will chew up your line.
They now hold as if ne
Knurling is the process by which texture is given to metal. Usually metal
handles of wrenches and hammers or other tools will be knurled with a
cross-hatched pattern. There are lots of options and harshnesses which can
be chosen by the machinist.
I'm not particularly familiar with the best line
constant during gusts.
I spliced in an eye splice around Tylaska J Locks. Splice was OK, a bit hard to
bury
the cover.
Michael Brown
Windburn
C&C 30-1
Date: Mon, 5 Oct 2015 09:04:52 -0400
From: David Knecht
To: CnC CnC discussion list
Subject: Stus-List self-tailing winch problem
Messag
Hi Josh- great info!
On Oct 5, 2015, at 10:08 AM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List
wrote:
> David,
>
> The screws which Joel mentioned are, from my experience, a type of cap screw.
> You might want to remove them one at a time and lube them with tef-gel, or
> anti-seeze. If they get stuck they bre
Oh yeah I almost forgot. Your winches are most likely shot... You should
give them to me so that they can be properly disposed of 😁.
In all seriousness, keep me in mind if you decide to "upgrade".
Josh
On Oct 5, 2015 9:05 AM, "David Knecht via CnC-List"
wrote:
> We raced yesterday in 20+ k
David,
The screws which Joel mentioned are, from my experience, a type of cap
screw. You might want to remove them one at a time and lube them with
tef-gel, or anti-seeze. If they get stuck they break. If they are over
torqued they break. If they are not fully tightened or the springs are old
L-36.com has the manuals. There should be 3 screws you can tighten on the
tailer.
Joel
On Monday, October 5, 2015, Dennis C. via CnC-List
wrote:
> VPC is slippery. I switched to VPC couple years ago for genoa sheets and
> found 1-2 additional wraps were needed depending on wind strength. I ha
VPC is slippery. I switched to VPC couple years ago for genoa sheets and
found 1-2 additional wraps were needed depending on wind strength. I have
Barlow 28 non-ST's.
Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA
On Mon, Oct 5, 2015 at 8:04 AM, David Knecht via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wro
We raced yesterday in 20+ knot winds and I found that the Barient 28 self
tailing winches were both slipping in the self-tailer making it hard to bring
the genoa in all the way. I cannot find a line specification for the Barient,
and when I replaced the line a few years ago, I got 7/16 VPC inst
13 matches
Mail list logo
