Ive had my R4C PTO rebuilt about 8 months ago and the PTO tuning felt
great. Before the rebuild it would stick and would have different
tightness as I tuned.
I hadn't used the rig for a few months and turned it on last night and I
have the same issue again. Wanted to know if anyone changed out
Hello,
I wonder if anyone has tried to lower the drive to match 5 watt output
level for QRP work.
It think Drakes will make a excellent QRP rig.
Of course I will run it at normal settings when not qrp'ing.
73
Ron, wb1hga
___
Drakelist mailing
Ron,
I would think that the only reliable way to accomplish QRP with the Drake
rigs (assuming the 4 line tube rigs mostly) would be to build up a good
transmitting attenuator pad and use up the wattage in that pad. Many
examples can be found in old Johnson literature designed to let their
On 12/17/2011 12:41 PM, Don Cunningham wrote:
Ron,
I would think that the only reliable way to accomplish QRP with the
Drake rigs (assuming the 4 line tube rigs mostly) would be to build up
a good transmitting attenuator pad and use up the wattage in that
pad. Many examples can be found in
I used to use the non-inductive resistive T pads between the T4 and amp
(a tetrode amp--low drive). Also used that for a little QRP. But
recently have been really loving the Anaren monolithic 50 ohm
attenuators. They can be had in many ratings and values. I use 10dB
100W. Mounted on a
Rich,
Based on my experience...clean those gears with soap water use a
stiff brush to be sure NO old gread, dirt etc is in the very bottem of
the teeth.
Maybe you have already done this...if so maybe there is still oil in
the plastic?
73,
Lee
-Original Message-
From: Rich Hallman
Hello Ron and Don and everyone,
I used my TR-4Cw for QRP work on both CW and SSB. My approach was to tune
it up on a dumy load, then through a w-4 watt meter (not really designed for
QRP but it was what I had overseas) tune again to match the rig to the
antenna (nothing like a Pi-Network on
Hi Ron,
I asked a similar question recently about SSB QRP with Drake equipment.
I think some of the thread applies to CW.
As usual, Garey and Jim provided good info. Here's the link:
http://www.mail-archive.com/drakelist@zerobeat.net/msg17173.html
73,
Bob K6GGO
Hello,
I wonder if anyone
Hi Rich,
I agree with you that the metalNylon assemblies seem to have a smoother
feeling with less sloppiness. I don't know if the all-Nylon gears degrade
over time or if they came that way from Drake.
I changed a set to metal/Nylon gears back last spring. I was first going to
attempt a
Just my opinion, but I think the metal gears are way over valued. I still think they were a cost
cutting measure when they ran out of nylon gears near the end of the production cycle. Nylon gears
themselves are inexpensive, but the tooling to manufacture them is quite expensive. If the
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