On 6/17/07, David Pratt <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
I am still using 60/40 Multicore solder that I "inherited" from a
previous employer forty years ago and it still works fine. I built my
K2, K1 & KX1, etc with it with no problems.
That's the same stuff I'm using. I bought a reel as a kid of 1
Hi Mike,
I'd use any old wire you can find at a good price. Home Depot must
have something, and I wouldn't bother with the double binding post at
all. I prefer alligator clips. You can see what I use on my KX1 web
page: http://www3.ns.sympatico.ca/ppike/csway.html
Good luck,
Paul
--
Paul -
On the acid type subject :)
In my very very early days, I worked in a gas station.
It was my first night, to work alone. Boy such
confidence they have in me!
In walks a gentleman, and he asks " I need my
car battery charged, and there it is, over there by
the door". Sort of a serious looki
I remember buying crystals at Lafayette Radio in the mid sixties and moving
their frequencies by rubbing them in toothpaste on a piece of plate glass...A
lot of work !!...I had a 2 year novice at the time...
Jerry, wa2dkg
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FWIW. And for those big loops! TruValue (Granville NY) was selling #17
electric fence wire for $22.99 for a 1/2 mile. #14 for a 1/4 mile was
$29.99. I have a 40 meter loop I made with scraps of the #14 put
together using wire nuts and homemade PVC insulators. It has been up
for years and
I bought some Kester solder in 1953, used it throughout the years, and still
have some left. It works just fine, better in some respects than solder that
I bought more recently. I used it occasionally in construction of my K2/100
where I needed the larger diameter solder.
Jerry AI6L
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RF travels on and/or near the surface of a conductor.
The plating on fence wire tarnishes / corrodes rapidly
and therefore isn't the best choice for antenna wire.
73! Ken Kopp - K0PP
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
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Hi the gang,
Att Gary!
I was going to test the new KAT100. A moment before, it was all right with
all checks, the bridge balanced nicely. I was doing this test without the
KPA100, directly at the K2 output without KAT2.
No reactions from KAT100 (no led on, no detection bye ATU menu). Wth 5 w o
After several years of faithful service, my K2/100 (with KDSP2 and KSB2) has
developed a perplexing malady. The crystal filter passband will not adjust to
center on a 600hz sidetone. As you adjust the filters towards 600 hz using
Spectrogram (say OP1), the filter shape degrades and then severe
Howard W. Ashcraft wrote:
When I started to set the filters, however, I could not get them
within range. As noted above, I can not shift the passband to cover
a 600hz sidetone. The filters appear to center around 900-1000 hz.
I have attempted to set the filters back to my prior CAL FIL BFO
set
Agreed. However, at $0.00 for antennas that have worked 228 DXCC
entities since January 1, 2005, I'd say such antennas are a good
bargain, and, work well enough.
Jozef WB2MIC
Ken Kopp wrote:
RF travels on and/or near the surface of a conductor. The plating on
fence wire tarnishes / corrodes
In the lasr email ,I forgot to say that evec with more than 20w output on
the
power meter, the indicated power on the display was only 0.4 w!!!
Rectification : about VREFDET it is 0.8 v , not 1.3v!
VALC (Q8 emeteur) power set to 0 v=0.8, powet set to max v=2.6 v
Puting back the KAT2 I have t
On Fri, 15 Jun 2007 12:03:19 -0500
K9ZTV <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
The rig is indeed fantastic, but RF is RF regardless of what brand
produces
I beg to differ. While "technically" correct from a scientific standpoint,
what brand produces the RF from your rig could potentially make the
diffe
I have had good luck with the fence wire that I use. It is Aluminum
wire and seems to hold up good. I have a 20M dipole up now that is made with
it. It has not been up very long. But I have used this same wire for ground
radials for my vertical and it holds up nicely, except when I or the d
The first and last time I held solder in my teeth was many harvests ago and
I live to tell this tale: I got the shock of my life which threw me across
the room leaving me quivering wreck and might easily have killed me. I
later learned about "leakage current." Appliances over here are allowed
I am not sure where to ask this question so I will ask it here.
Please redirect me to a better place to ask it.
I am not finding PSK31 activity on 30M or 17M even though I know the
bands are open. I always check WWV on 10MHz, 15MHz, and 20MHz to give
myself an idea of propagation. WWV on 20
Bob,
It is normal for the K2 to develop full power if the VRFDET signal is
not being sent to the K2 microprocessor. The 20 watts is not the
problem, but the result.
For some reason, the VRFDET signal is not getting from the KAT100 back
to the K2. First check the cable between the KIO2 (or
In a message dated 6/17/2007 1:27:41 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
> I am not sure where to ask this question so I will ask it here.
> Please redirect me to a better place to ask it.
>
> I am not finding PSK31 activity on 30M or 17M even though I know the
> bands are open
I hope you are not trying to CENTER OP1 on 600 Hz. That's not right. You
want the skirt to fall to zero around 200 Hz (left) and around 3K (right).
There may be nothing wrong at all. If you did center it, you'd have
reception on both sides of zero-beat.
Dan / WG4S / K2 #2456
The crystal filter
I've been plugging through my construction and have hit my first bump
in the road.
As I got to page 46 in the "Alignment and Test, Part 1" section, I
came to the Audio Amplifier and Tone Generator Test where you plug in
a pair of low impedance headphones, tap MENU and scroll to ST L, hold
David,
The sidetone source may have been inadvertently set incorrectly in the
menu, although it should not have been in an initial build.
In any case, proceed as follows:
Enter the MENU and find ST L - hold EDIT and set the number at some
reasonable level (50 to 60). Before doing anything el
Howard,
Dan Barker's response was likely 'on target'.
It is entirely possible that you have gotten the BFOs set to the wrong
sideband. The CW filters should be at a lower BFO frequency than the
CWr frequencies, and likewise the LSB filters should be lower than the
USB filters.
I suggest th
Good Evening,
Another session of ECN is going into the logs. 20 meters was a little
weak with QSB plagued contacts. 40 meters was also a bit weak but we had
the addition of QRN to the signals. Made for more digging but with
repeats I was able to work folks. Then along came Dale. For
Thanks to everyone for their suggestions. However, it turned out to be a
different problem. For reasons unknown, although possibly linked to the Info
80 messages, the KDSP2 was not disengaging as it should and the first DSP
filter was wildly off the mark. This interfered with setting the crys
Dan,
I should have been more careful when I said "centering around 600hz." 600hz is
set at about the first major peak of OP1 and is very close to the spacing you
describe.
Thanks and 73,
Howard W1WF
K2/100
KX1
*
This communication, including any attachments, is
Nick T wrote:
I am having the same problem identifying components as well. I have
the larger tan bodied solenoidal but I also have a sub-minature tan
bodied solenoidal but it is colored green-brown-green.
The green brown green thing is actually a resistor, although, if I
understand the design
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