I believe your asking for something that the Yaesu FT-2000 does - enables
you to choose the bands you do use and skip those you don't (for whatever
reason, no antenna, don't like, not open). I agree might be a useful feature
for some future update (I'm just keen to get my K3 in early Aug).
If
Well done and congratulations Doug.
73,
Ken ZL1AIH
#767, #3725
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Perhaps this question has been raised before, but I haven't been able to find
it in the archives nor in the manual.
I've built a K1 (words fine) and am now building a K2. Yesterday, while
finishing one of the first toroids in kit, I noticed one of the turns had
crossed over the previous
In my case, I wound them tight, and reduced the amount of wire
used so I did not have so much extra after the torod was done.
Some cores scrape the wire, I tried to use a bit more caution
but still had some scrapes, it does not matter, they don't short out.
I wound all my toroids with one extra
Clark,
Scraped wire can lead to shorted turns. The core is not conductive, but
if adjacent turns short to one another, failure will result.
You are doing it right by pushing the wire through the center rather
than pulling it. To keep the turns tight, dress the wire around the
outside of
With respect to toroid sharp edges, should one rub some wet and dry
abrasive paper around the edges before winding?
How about winding plumbers' pipe thread teflon tape around the core
before winding?
I am about to resume work on my K2!
Happy July 4
Kevin
VK3DAP / ZL2DAP
Not sure about hand sanding, but i know grinding ferrite is a tricky
process, I haven been designing flyback transformers of late and grinding
the gap in ferrite cores has resulted in many cracked and broken cores, i
would assume if you are meticulous and careful hand sanding is probably ok.
Hi Kevin:
Probably more effort than it's worth.
I have tried running a 'beveling' drill bit around the inner edges,
and several other schemes, but not sure it's much help.
For the relatively few ferrite cores in the kit, I would urge the
careful application of restraint while winding and
A single layer of plumber's teflon tape has worked well for me and appears
to have little if any effect on coil Q etc. The stuff has a mind of its own
though when you use it :-)
73,
Geoff
GM4ESD
KBG Luxford [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
With respect to toroid sharp edges, should one rub some
Kevin,
I have not tried it, but I believe the ferrite material is harder than
the 'wet and dry' paper.
All in all, I do not believe any prep work on the cores is worth the
effort. Just remember to *push* the wire through the center rather than
trying to pull it through. Using your finger
http://lists.contesting.com/pipermail/cq-contest/2007-July/074675.html
A bit vague, but I'll take what I can get.
de Doug KR2Q
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Not sure if I have seen any info regarding K3 beta testing schedules in
earlier posts so am wondering when the beta testing will be completed and
when report(s) will be issued??
Also very interested in the test measurement numbers for the K3...wonder
when they will be completed/released??
N6TR:
Simply put - this is a great radio. I can't wait to get a
second one so I can fully move my SO2R station over to them.
KR2Q:
A bit vague, but I'll take what I can get.
Considering the source this is an outstanding
endorsement! Tree N6TR is one of the best SO2R ops
in the
I remember the long thread about solder to use - and I see the Warrant is up
on the site for the K3, but since it is a solderless kit, I assume that bit
doesn't appy?
However, I've ordered an XV144 too and guess solder type does apply to that.
I have solder going back 20 years, so not sure if it
Have used mine quite a few hours. Mostly over the field day weekend,
but also for general tuning around. Used it for both SSB and CW. I
have not had any frustrations with tuning. I have not used a K1, so
cannot compare. I tend to use the .1 tuning rate, and then back up if I
heard
Hi
Lots of European stations here in Europe, but not too many DX stations,
unfortunately. Be patient, all will be OK ...in 5 or 6 years !
73
Jacques de F9OJ
- Original Message -
From: Ron Polityka [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: .Elecraft elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Wednesday, July 04, 2007
Frank wrote:
K2 users, I'm thinking about building a k2 for myself.I built the k1 and do use
it.Is the VFO operation better than the k1? I guess, I mean ,is it smooth to
use for hours of tuning the bands or is it similar to the k1?
Thank You
Frank
Greetings. I've read through the FAQ and have one question which may
sound basic and silly, and I hesitate to ask. With the stock roofing
filter and the DSP functions, can I expect comparable or better CW
performance to what I have with my Kenwood 850 with a 500 Hz crystal
filter? I want to
Hi, Kevin-
Some of the ferrite cores can be a bit rough around the edges. When I
encounter a batch that exhibits this characteristic, I use a drill-bit to
clean up the burr prior to winding. Pick a drill-bit of a size
substantially larger than the toroid's inner diameter, and spin its tip
back
K3NG:
can I expect comparable or better CW performance to
what I have with my Kenwood 850 with a 500 Hz crystal filter?
Probably better but you need IMD performance
at 2 kHz spacings using the stock 2.7 kHz filter to
answer for sure. Sherwood Engineering measured the
TS-850S with dual
http://lists.contesting.com/pipermail/cq-contest/2007-July/074680.html
This is more granular
de Doug KR2Q
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Goody,
A TS-850 is one of the rigs I have not owned, so cannot make a definitive
comparison. Butget it with the stock filter. If you feel you need more
help with the stronger signals, then get the narrower roofing filter. Or if
they're available by then, one of the variable BW roofing
Keep in mind however that to really realize the K3's potential when
operating CW you really should have either the 500, 400, 250 or 200 Hz
filters installed, depending on your operating preferences. With this
installed, you will be way ahead of the 850's performance, as well as just
about every
Jacques,
Have not been able to check 10m this past week, but some good but brief 10m
multihop Es openings to the west the week before in among the Europeans.
VE9AA worked G7CNF 6m - 4m crossband on June 26th via multihop Es. FWIW my
bet is 10m F layer openings in 2 -1/2 or 3 years time!!
Frank
The K2 tuning experience is smooth, but a bit different.
The K1 is continuous tuning with an LC oscillator.
The K2 uses a sort of synthesizer, in that the tuning
goes about 5 kHz then there is a tick as the internal
works switches to the next 5 kHz range. For all
practical purposes, it is
I've not had a problem - yet,
Has anyone tried painting the rough areas with a little clear nail polish?
Seems simpler than trying to sand or drill and should not affect the inductance.
73 John
WA8KNE
Clark Macaulay wrote:
Perhaps this question has been raised before, but I haven't been
You can reinsulate the wire by painting it with clear nail polish. In
fact, the cores are not a concern as they are an insulating material. The
bare wire touching the core is not a concern, a bare wire touching an
adjacent winding is what to avoid. You do not have to have the turns pulled
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Help:
I have an excellent condition Ten Tec Jupiter with the remote tuning
knob that I would like to work out a trade towards a late serial number
K2/100. I am going to go with Elecraft for my HF equipment. (also
patiently waiting for my K3) The Jupiter looks and works great, has the
factory shipping
Ok, totally confused by the zero beat to WWV. I can zero beat an un-oscillated
WWV carrier at two points, in USS and LSB. When they add the odd-hour 600hz
tone, things become even more confusing.
I suppose I am relagated to obtaining a spectrum analyser, but which mode
should I use to
Joe,
Let me see if I can help. First I usually think of 'tuning WWV' rather
than 'zero-beating' just to keep my mind straight - I leave the Zero
Beat term reserved for CW use when you want to tune the desired signal
to match your sidetone pitch.
Tune WWV in using LSB or USB because the K2
They turn off the tone modulation every hour for a bit. See their schedule
for time of this. That is the time you do your most accurate zero beating,
and in CW mode of your receiver.
Stuart
K5KVH
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At 05:25 PM 7/5/2007, joey mcg wrote...
Ok, totally confused by the zero beat to WWV. I can zero beat an
un-oscillated WWV carrier at two points, in USS and LSB. When they
add the odd-hour 600hz tone, things become even more confusing.
Bounce back and forth between LSB and USB (hold down CW
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