Elecraft's auto-spot and CWT features -- available on the K3/K3S/KX2/KX3 -- are
very useful tools for CW operators, especially those not experienced in
pitch-matching. Here's a bit of history on where these features came from and
how they work.
CW Spotting History
When a station finishes a CQ
Bill,
My real advantage is that I no longer have to read in detail to follow
the assembly steps, but if you are doing it for the first time, do read
carefully and completely as you are working. My first one (Field Test)
took me 34 hours. There is no shame in taking 60 hours or more to build
I think so. Wayne thought I may have a record for the shortest build @ 26
hours. But I think Don would easily beat that with all his experience and
skills. We have both concurred, however, that with the time that has passed
neither of us have the speed of the 1990's. Such is aging.
73,
Bill
Please excuse me if this information has been given already.
I spoke to Wayne N6KR at Dayton a few years ago about the KAT3.
To clear all memories in the KAT3:
While in Config:KAT3, tap the "CLR" button on the K3 panel. (This is per band)
Tune KAT3 into a dummy load - each band to re-establish mem
Bruce,
I built mine in 2001, and as far as I remember I had the same situation
with the options. Since you have the options, sneak-preview into them
and read what and how the parts have to be removed. Then you get an idea
how to install them in a way you can removed them without putting harm
t
Hi Mike,
Have not heard from Support yet. But this is an interesting discussion
and I am learning some things from the group. I had not kept up with the
differences between the KAT3 and the KAT3A, but it would seem that’s at the
center of the issue I have.
My K3 is S/N 02977, and I h
You may also have to throw the switch on the KIO3B Main board if you
only have the USB cable.
Very old boards did not have this switch, in that case you will need the
RS232 interface to the RJ-45 jack and set RS232 to 38400.
See
https://ftp.elecraft.com/K3S/Manuals%20Downloads/E740280%20KIO3B%20
Check the 8.215 trap on the KAT3 ATU. It is C10 and L10 on the older units.
They can burn as they are on the ant side of the ATU.
We eliminated that trap on the newer KAT3A (not needed).
In repairs we pull the coil and put a wire jumper in its place.
Keith WE6R
I wonder if 11 years is a record?
Ted, KN1CBR
On 1/21/19, 9:03 AM, "hawley, charles j jr" wrote:
I did one K2... started in ‘99 and finished in 2010. There was an addition
to the house and a move of the shack in between. I had to write my own assembly
manual to include all the mods,
Looking at the KAT3 schematic indicates that in bypass all the relays
are set such that all the series inductors are individually short
circuited and all the capacitors are open circuit. This potentially
introduces strays due to the short circuit inductors, relays and pcb
tracks still in the RF
I did one K2... started in ‘99 and finished in 2010. There was an addition to
the house and a move of the shack in between. I had to write my own assembly
manual to include all the mods, changes, and accessories. Worked when I turned
it on. No reworks. I like the sound better than the K3.
Chuc
The revised KAT3A has a hard bypass with relays. The KAT3 does a “soft” bypass
by placing the tuning network in some kind of neutral position.
I don’t know what the KAT3 actually does to achieve this, but is it possible
this is somehow related to the anomaly you are seeing? With the KAT3 in
"The leads of the resistor look like they are bent at the end as if it was
soldered to surface of the board"
I suspect you are right. I looked at the (perhaps intentionally) out of focus
FCC photos and I see a wire ended resistor bridging surface mount pads in the
lower left of the "Bottom V
Hello Bruce --
I have built three K2s, with almost every accessory and option there is other
than the transverters. I agree with all who have advised that the K2 be
finished first and, except for the indicated KSB2 bits, then do the add-ons
later. My reason for doing it that way was to be
Have you done a TX GAIN CAL procedure? I have found this often solves
quirky problems that have cropped up with my K3 over the past 10 years.
Also, if you are getting power overshoot, check to be sure your MIC or LINE
IN is not set higher than 4 bars with the 5th bar flashing on the ALC meter.
7
Hi Barry,
I think what I am seeing is related to your experience. I ran through some
additional testing. I see perhaps some slight differences between ANT1 and ANT2
positions as far as SWR readings, but nothing significant, at least on 40
meters.
I do now see something I’m even more pu
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