Good Evening,
Conditions on twenty meters were not conducive to communications.
Lots of noise with a few types of QSB. Normally I have very low noise,
S2 or lower. Today the base noise level was at or above all signals.
QSB was rapid enough to chop up some characters. From the sounds
...”Digging in radials does not interest me. Likewise, catching them
in lawn equipment is also a PIA. So, here is what I have done and it has
worked well”... Tom, WB2KLD”
I did something very similar, many years ago, after hombrewing a 40 meter
vertical. In order to pin the copper wire
Or just buy some landscape staples. Used to hold down
sod.https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073F1VMHS/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_454ZBHA4KGC6C3HCNSMN?_encoding=UTF8=173,Gary
K9GS
Original message From: Bob McGraw
Date: 1/16/22 3:23 PM (GMT-05:00) To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject:
With regard to installing radials on the ground:
I used a weed whacker configured as an edge trimmer to make a cut through
the grass. Feed the radial wire in the slit and use staples as Bob
suggests to secure the wire. In a month or so, the grass grows over the
wire and poses no problem mowing.
This discussion reminded me of a question that I’ve often wondered about
but have never asked.
I have read that when laying out radials on or under the ground, one should
be careful to ensure that they radiate out from a central point without
ever crossing one another.
I have also read about this
Well,
The concrete pad had to go in, for other reasons. Specifically, that
solar
field saves me thousands of dollars per year in natural gas heating for
the swimming pool.
I would have been a fool not to put that wire in it, while the forms
were
open.
By "work" I mean that the
On 1/16/2022 12:19 PM, Mike Markowski wrote:
A construction site had left over galvanized mesh rolls that I bought at
great discount. I unrolled them symmetrically about my then soon-to-be
installed vertical. Easier than individual for lazy hams like me:-) and
2nd qso at 100W from
I made a handful of staples using some scrap solid wire. #10, #12, #14
works great and no need to remove the insulation. Make them about 4"
long per side, and place them over the radial, pushing them into the
ground. I agree, cut the grass short, pull the radial tight and "staple
it to the
A construction site had left over galvanized mesh rolls that I bought at
great discount. I unrolled them symmetrically about my then soon-to-be
installed vertical. Easier than individual for lazy hams like me :-) and
2nd qso at 100W from Pennsylvania was Cambodia! That qso made my day and
then
Indeed! and I've seen Tom Shiller's presentation of his "Illuminator."
My HOA antenna at home is a 41 m end-fed wire on the top of a 2 m high
wooden fence. It "works" surprisingly well considering what we all know
about antennas. It also "works" for the HOA. Tom even came up with a
3-lamp
The logical explanation is from Keith, one of the K3 techs at
Elecraft. He said; "avoid 5 watts and 50 watts" That's
logical enough for me.
73
Bob, K4TAX
On 1/16/2022 11:40 AM, elecraft-requ...@mailman.qth.net wrote:
Message: 1
Date: Sun, 16 Jan 2022 07:06:34 -0700
From: Wes
In SSB mode, until you speak into the mike, there is no output signal in
transmit mode. Switch to CW mode, key the radio via an external key or
paddle and see what you have. Or press XMIT/TUNE function for 2
seconds. You should have output. Also check to see what value of PWR
is set on
On 16/01/2022 18:40, elecraft-requ...@mailman.qth.net wrote:
It is not in the manual, but has appeared here many times, without logical
explanation.
It actually is in the manual, but not very clearly: K3S rev A1 manual
page 67 (TXGN parameter), K3 rev D10 manual page 62 (TXGN parameter).
On 1/16/2022 10:21 AM, jerry wrote:
Have you actually tried one? Mine seems to work.
Define "work." N6BT famously said many years ago that everything "works"
by quickly working all continents on a light bulb.
I was ready to put
out radials
also, but doesn't seem to be necessary.
The
"Seems to work". Sorry, but I don't know what that means. Everything
works to some degree or other, and unless you are able to do A vs B
testing, or can take reasonably accurate field strength measurements,
you don't know what you actually have any more than I know what you have.
I do know
Hi Dave,
Have you actually tried one? Mine seems to work. I was ready to put
out radials
also, but doesn't seem to be necessary.
- Jerry KF6VB
On 2022-01-16 10:07, David Gilbert wrote:
That post illustrates the mistake in thinking that a lightning ground
(Ufer) is the
At risk of error paraphrasing prior discussions, let me try to explain:
Elecraft implemented the implicit gain calibration at 5 and 50W believing
that it was a subtle and harmless way of triggering gain cal. Users could
do it intentionally (albeit tediously) and if it happened accidentally it
That post illustrates the mistake in thinking that a lightning ground
(Ufer) is the same as an RF shield (radials) to avoid ground return
losses. They are NOT the same and they perform completely different
functions.
73,
Dave AB7E
On 1/16/2022 9:35 AM, jerry wrote:
All,
I had a
That begs the questions of why it ISN'T in the manual or tech note
addendum, and why it hasn't been addressed by Elecraft.
Worst case, it would make more sense to have the gain calibration done
at some odd power level like 5.3 watts and 53 watts instead of power
levels that users would
All,
I had a similar situation. The 4BTV was mounted on a pole pounded
into
my wildland hill behind the house. It had about 50 radials, and every
year
when we whacked the weeds, one or two of the radials would get tangled
in the
whacker.
In the fullness of time, we put in a swimming
Now in my mid seventies I have embraced the idea of conservation of
energy. Digging in radials does not interest me. Likewise, catching them
in lawn equipment is also a PIA. So, here is what I have done and it has
worked well. I trim the grass. Then I use a length of string and
stretch it out
Elecraft K3S and P3
K3S – s/n 108xx. Options include: 100w, KAT3, TXCO, DVR3, KRX3A, MH2 Mic.
Filters in main RX: 2.8, 2.1, 1.0, 400, 250. Filters in sub-RX: 2.8. Power
cable, manuals.
P3 – s/n 9xx, no options. Power cable and cables needed to connect to K3 or
K3S, manual.
In excellent
When I shut off the radio (K4 or K3) the KRC2 stays selecting the
antenna for the freequency that was last sent from the radio over the
Aux bus.
Is there any way to have the KRC2 remove any antenna selection when the
radio is turned off??
thanks,
Gordon - N1MGO
You may or may not consider this logical, but: The description of the
transmitter gain calibration procedure in the manual does not call up any
special calibration menu. It just says transmit a carrier at exactly 5.0
watts or exactly 50 watts. Apparently the firmware uses these power level
"I have exhausted all the troubleshooting ideas that are within my
capabilities. I hope that another KPA500 owner may be able to provide
information that I can use to get my amp up & running. "
Do you have the schematics and a voltmeter? One of the first steps may be to
ensure the low
Jim,
Thank you for the reference to the post confirming the 5/50 watt issue!
73, and thanks,
Dave (NK7Z)
https://www.nk7z.net
ARRL Volunteer Examiner
ARRL Technical Specialist, RFI
ARRL Asst. Director, NW Division, Technical Resources
On 1/16/22 06:27, Jim McCook wrote:
FYI once again. You
FYI once again. You can confirm this with Elecraft support. Jim
https://www.mail-archive.com/elecraft@mailman.qth.net/msg252041.html
__
Elecraft mailing list
Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
Help:
I will dangerously rely on memory. I recall a discussion, no doubt one
of many similar, simply describing the amp as most efficient at full
power, not that any output power level should be avoided. After all,
every amp is designed around some quiescent current.
73,
Mike ab3ap
On 1/16/22
It is not in the manual, but has appeared here many times, without logical
explanation.
Wes N7WS
On 1/16/2022 6:52 AM, j...@kk9a.com wrote:
I have not heard this either. Is this in the manual? 5 watts would be a
tough output to avoid if you enjoy QRP.
John KK9A
KE8G wrote:
Hmm, I've never
See:
https://mailman.qth.net/pipermail/elecraft/2022-January/288276.html
for a reference to the original post, which I can not locate...
73, and thanks,
Dave (NK7Z)
https://www.nk7z.net
ARRL Volunteer Examiner
ARRL Technical Specialist, RFI
ARRL Asst. Director, NW Division, Technical Resources
I have not heard this either. Is this in the manual? 5 watts would be a
tough output to avoid if you enjoy QRP.
John KK9A
KE8G wrote:
Hmm, I've never heard that 5 or 50 watts of power shouldn't be run.
73 de KE8G - Jim
__
Elecraft
Chuck, I'm glad you're happy with it. But the fact that KV5J is selling a
separate box to update the W2 kind of argues for my point that the W2 needs a
design refresh. Read the reviews on eHam and you'll see what I mean.
https://www.eham.net/reviews/view-product?id=14820
For reference, here's
Hopefully someone remembers the thread title, I don't.
73, and thanks,
Dave (NK7Z)
https://www.nk7z.net
ARRL Volunteer Examiner
ARRL Technical Specialist, RFI
ARRL Asst. Director, NW Division, Technical Resources
On 1/16/22 04:52, KE8G wrote:
Hmm, I’ve never heard that 5 or 50 watts of power
Hmm, I’ve never heard that 5 or 50 watts of power shouldn’t be run.
73 de KE8G - Jim
On Sat, Jan 15, 2022 at 18:54 Dave (NK7Z) wrote:
> If I remember correctly, 5 watts is a power level to avoid... As is 50
> Watts. I believe it messes with the TX calibration.
>
> 73, and thanks,
> Dave
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