Jim,
Glad to hear that you have it solved.
It is necessary to have all power connections tight.
Yes, check the simple things first. That is a rabbit hole we all fall
into at one time or another.
73,
Don W3FPR
On 2/7/2019 7:41 PM, Jim KO5V wrote:
Don,
It is all working again!
The power su
I've always said "new only guarantees newnot necessarily good".
That's one reason why companies supply a warranty with a new product.
They expect some failures and some to be dead out of the box.
73
Bob, K4TAX
On 2/7/2019 6:41 PM, Jim KO5V wrote:
Don,
It is all working again!
The
Don,
It is all working again!
The power supply's negative terminal was the problem. The terminal wan't
falling off, but the internal side of the plastic feed-thru washer had cracked,
and about half fell off inside. That caused it to loosen up slightly. Without
the KPA hooked up, it supplied th
Don,
OK, I again thoroughly checked the PP connectors and the fuse/fuse holder,
they're good, so I decided to remove the cable from the power supply, and the
bolt negative output of the Tripp-Lite rotated. I opened it up and found the
insulating washer was broken. I need to go to the hardware s
Jim,
OK since you have good voltage at the inside of J3, all should be well
(did I misunderstand you for the side of J3 that you measured?).
The resistance measured at J3 would normally start out at a lower
resistance and increase as the voltage from the DMM charges C51. If you
have a strong
From: Don Wilhelm
>Sent: Feb 7, 2019 5:43 AM
>To: Jim KO5V , Elecraft List
>Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K2: I killed my KPA100
>
>Jim,
>
>Is this KPA100 newly assembled? Or did it work beefore?
>
>Your KPA100 D9 and D10 diode measurements seem to be normal.
>
>Check t
Jim,
Is this KPA100 newly assembled? Or did it work beefore?
Your KPA100 D9 and D10 diode measurements seem to be normal.
Check the orientation of all diodes against the parts placement diagram
in the back of the manual.
It would appear that you have a short on the 12 volt supply input of th
measure 80-90ohms in one
direction (it takes a moment to settle), but it's open in the other. It might
be OK?"
Next?
Thanks. 73,
Jim KO5V
-Original Message-
>From: Don Wilhelm
>Sent: Feb 3, 2019 8:50 PM
>To: Jim KO5V , Elecraft List
>Subject: Re: [Elecr
Jim,
My usual procedure when tackling a problem of that nature is to first
isolate the problem to one component.
You have already apparently checked out the base K2.
Next, remove the top cover from the base K2 and connect the KPA100 to it
(remove the KPA100 from the EC2 enclosure).
Put the KP
I tried to tune the KPA/KAT100, and the SWR went to red. I quickly exited
'tune', checked all of the connections, and the antenna, and tried again. Same
result, except before I could take it out of tune (it was tuning maybe 2-3
seconds), all of the KPA/KAT100 lights went out. The K2 was fine. I
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