This item has been sold. Geo/W2BPI
__
Elecraft mailing list
Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
Pl
$15.00 shipped. E-mail off list. Geo
__
Elecraft mailing list
Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
Ple
The same RF probe can be handy doing some troubleshooting if it ever becomes
necessary. The K3 does not come with one as its not an essential/integral part
of
the radio as it is in building the K2. An inexpensive kit is availble through
Elecraft by contacting their sales department.
Did you ever get a chance to measure the voltage at pins 6 and 8 on your
connection to the Reference board?
On Mon, 2008-07-14 at 01:15 -0700, OE5CSP-Chris wrote:
>
>
> Is the K3 capable of using an RF probe similar to the K2? Do you get an RF
> probe with the K3 like you do with the K2? Can o
Is the K3 capable of using an RF probe similar to the K2? Do you get an RF
probe with the K3 like you do with the K2? Can one be added to the order if
not? How much is it?
73, Jim KG0KP
Jim,
Elecraft sent me the diagram of the RF-probe in an e-mail.If you want to
have it, just send me mail
Speaking from personal experience you have to order the RF Probe kit
separately. It is the one that comes with the K2 and it costs $10.00 as
of 3 weeks ago.
Ed W0SD
___
Elecraft mailing list
Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
You must be a subscribe
Is the K3 capable of using an RF probe similar to the K2? Do you get an RF
probe with the K3 like you do with the K2? Can one be added to the order if
not? How much is it?
73, Jim KG0KP
- Original Message -
From: "OE5CSP-Chris" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To:
Sent: Sunday, July 13, 2008 7:23
Gary,
Possibly Q24 could need replaced, but it is too quick to judge.
Certainly V ALC is not up to the normal DC level - BTW, that listed
voltage is nominal for a setting of 5 watts out with the K2 actually
delivering 5 watts. Since you have no power out, the voltage on V ALC
should be quite
Don Wilhelm wrote:
Gary,
You should have signal at U10 pin 1 but you don't - you had a signal at
the BFO output if I recall correctly, so something is broken between
those two points.
Since you jumpered the KSB2 headers correctly, leave things that way for
now.
Set the K2 to TUNE and rech
Gary,
You should have signal at U10 pin 1 but you don't - you had a signal at
the BFO output if I recall correctly, so something is broken between
those two points.
Since you jumpered the KSB2 headers correctly, leave things that way for
now.
Set the K2 to TUNE and recheck to be certain yo
Don Wilhelm wrote:
Gary does not work weekends, and you can likely have it isolated by then.
If you have no output from U10-4, then how about the input at pin 1?
That should be the BFO signal fed to the transmit mixer. (you do have
the KSB2 plugged in correctly do you not?).
Pin 1 also reads
Gary does not work weekends, and you can likely have it isolated by then.
If you have no output from U10-4, then how about the input at pin 1?
That should be the BFO signal fed to the transmit mixer. (you do have
the KSB2 plugged in correctly do you not?). The only other signal that
must be p
Basic problem was engage mind before typing. High DC voltage at U8 and
no RF voltage at pin 4 of U10. Low RF voltage at pin 6 of U9. Wanted to
make sure my RF probe was good before continuing. It has been many years
since I have messed with electronic circuits.I may be back at the Novice
level.
Gary,
I must be misreading something or you had a typo. RF Board U8 is a
voltage regulator - you will not find any RF there.
73,
Don W3FPR
Gary Montalbine wrote:
Thanks all for the response. My RF probe works at TP1 and the PLL and
VCO circuits. U8 was where I had no voltage and was unsure
Thanks all for the response. My RF probe works at TP1 and the PLL and
VCO circuits. U8 was where I had no voltage and was unsure of the probe.
Need to check further.
Gary, WA4SZI
Don Wilhelm wrote:
Gary,
Turn your manual to the Troubleshooting Appendix - look at page 10 near
the end and you
Gary,
Turn your manual to the Troubleshooting Appendix - look at page 10 near
the end and you will find the PLL and VCO circuits will provide you with
some checks for your RF Probe.
73,
Don W3FPR
Gary Montalbine wrote:
I have a RF probe. However I am not sure it is working. It did not seem
Gary,
Elecraft offers the RFPROBE kit for $10. That may be better than making
a special order to Mouser or other supplier - BUT, a ham who does any
building at all should be able to order a list of parts from the 'wish
list' and place a sizable order, making the shipping a small percentage
o
I have a RF probe. However I am not sure it is working. It did not seem
to work at the first test point I tried. Is there someplace in the K2 on
the receive side I could test it? My problem appears to be in the send
side. This obviously would eliminate some problems if it worked.
Gary WA4SZI
_
Test send.
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Need to do some signal tracing on my K2. The xmit is not working correctly. I
need either the completed RF probe or the 1N34A diode shown in the manual for
troubleshooting. My local radio shack does not carry the diode. Buying online
would be very costly fo
Need to do some signal tracing on my K2. The xmit is not working correctly. I
need either the completed RF probe or the 1N34A diode shown in the manual for
troubleshooting. My local radio shack does not carry the diode. Buying online
would be very costly for one diode.
I built this around the t
TED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Cc: "Elecraft Reflector"
Sent: Monday, November 27, 2006 2:48 AM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] RF probe diode question
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
1N91 is germanium, like the 1N34.
But while 1N34 is a small-signal diode, 1N91 is a power rectifier. That
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
1N91 is germanium, like the 1N34.
But while 1N34 is a small-signal diode, 1N91 is a power rectifier. That means
a lot more capacitance and back leakage. I don't know if that will matter.
I found a 1N45. That is pretty similar to a 1N34, so I'll use it. The
drop is
In a message dated 11/26/06 7:41:27 PM Eastern Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED]
writes:
> I measured the forward voltage drops on various junkbox
> diodes and the 1N91's show about 0.11 V. This seems even *lower* than
> what I expect from a 1N34. Any reason not to use a 1N91 for this?
>
1N
A quick question: I need an RF probe (my scope is broken). I can't
find a 1N34. I measured the forward voltage drops on various junkbox
diodes and the 1N91's show about 0.11 V. This seems even *lower* than
what I expect from a 1N34. Any reason not to use a 1N91 for this?
--
73,
Vic, K2VCO
Geoff GM4ESD wrote:
When I lived in Luxembourg I found a solid plastic cased thing that has two
banana plugs which mate with a DMM and a BNC jack. With a BNC male connector
suitable for a probe's RG-174 cable it is easy to change probes without
moving banana plugs, and soldering to banana plugs
Geoffrey Mackenzie-Kennedy wrote:
When I lived in Luxembourg I found a solid plastic cased thing that has
two banana plugs which mate with a DMM and a BNC jack. With a BNC male
connector suitable for a probe's RG-174 cable it is easy to change
probes without moving banana plugs, and soldering t
When I lived in Luxembourg I found a solid plastic cased thing that has two
banana plugs which mate with a DMM and a BNC jack. With a BNC male connector
suitable for a probe's RG-174 cable it is easy to change probes without
moving banana plugs, and soldering to banana plugs is not an issue. Hav
When bringing "inner conductor" thru the braid, it
can as said - be done by either un-weaving the braided
layer, or arching over the inner conductor - and
pulling it thru the braid via a small opening you make
in the braid itself.
One word of caution - using either method, especially
the "hole in
thx guys-I really appreciate the advice. Now I know how to deal with the braid
for the future too. I knew I would be able to get a good response from this
group.
73 Jesse w6jmm
___
Elecraft mailing list
Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
You must
Another classic way of using coax braid, is to push the braid back up the
central conductor, after removing the outer vinyl jacket. Once you "bunch"
the braid, it spreads out and you can use a sharp pointed tool to make a
hole by spreading the crossed strands. Using the pointed tool or a hook
I find that the shield is not particularly flexible and soon breaks
and unravels. With RG-174, just cut the shield back, leaving approx.
1/16" exposed beyond the outer wrapper. Wrap a flexible piece of
stranded hookup wire around the exposed shield and solder it to the
shield. Cover the exposed s
With smaller cables like RG174 (or even RG58) I sometimes do what Glenn,
ON4WIX does, using a brush or fine pointed tool to "unweave" the braid.
Most often I use another technique that does *not* require un-weaving the
braid. I cut the jacket back and then use a fine pointed tool to push the
stra
Hi Jesse,
just read your post re the RF probe.
Your questions concerning the use of banana plugs are already answered so I'll
have a go at the braid unraveling question.
I'm using a very small copper brush. It looks like a toothbrush but the brushes
are made of copper wire.
After having cut away
On 6/16/06, Jesse & Nicky <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
I guess I am missing something here. Why do the banana plugs have to be
connected with rg 174 coax ??
The use of coax is AFAIK* to prevent the probe from picking up stray
RF energy from the powered up radio under test. The banana plugs are
I guess I am missing something here. Why do the banana plugs have to be
connected with rg 174 coax ??
If I have to use coax is there a "trick" to unraveling the braid ??
I cannot seem to get the tips of the banana plugs to accept solder.
As always, any help or advice would be greatly appreciate
Larry N8LP wrote
> [Original Message]
Date: Tue, 23 May 2006 06:29:45 -0400
>
> be 100V ( 70.7v RMS) across a 50 ohm load at 100W. A series pair of
> 1N5711 Schottky diodes should give you 140V PIV, which should be safe.
> The drop will still be quite low... lower than a single silicon diode,
cloudy - again!
73
- Keith KD1E -
- K2 5411 -
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of f5nhj
Sent: Tuesday, May 23, 2006 1:23 PM
To: Ron D'Eau Claire; 'Elecraft Discussion List'
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft RF Probe
Hi...
some
Hi...
some told that we can plug all the time the Elecraft K2 probe .. and some no
cause of harmonics !?..
what's about pse ?
Tks and 73 from french riviera
Jean louis
K2 #5371
___
Elecraft mailing list
Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
You must
Geoff, GM4ESD, wrote:
Quite right, but there is a way to overcome this problem which is to apply
an offset DC bias to the diode(s) which cancels the diode's natural 'bias'.
The diode(s) will then conduct with low applied 'signal' voltage. Requires a
stable and 'quiet' DC source e.g. a battery,
Ron, AC7AC, wrote:
As you make the RF probe better able to handle high RF voltages you will
also cause it to be less accurate at lower RF voltages.
The common RF probe diodes have a turn-on voltage of about 0.2 volts. Below
that, they are almost open circuits and have no output. Higher PRV diod
n Rife
W5EWA
Houston, TX
K2 S/N 4216
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Ron D'Eau Claire
Sent: Monday, May 22, 2006 9:20 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: RE: [Elecraft] Elecraft RF Probe
As you make the RF probe better able t
0.8 watts, if
I remember my calculations.
Stan Rife
W5EWA
Houston, TX
K2 S/N 4216
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Ron D'Eau Claire
Sent: Monday, May 22, 2006 9:20 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: RE: [Elecraft] Elecraft RF Probe
As you make the RF probe better able to handle high RF voltages you will
also cause it to be less accurate at lower RF voltages.
The common RF probe diodes have a turn-on voltage of about 0.2 volts. Below
that, they are almost open circuits and have no output. Higher PRV diodes
have turn-on voltag
ssage-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Al Gulseth
Sent: Monday, May 22, 2006 5:44 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net; [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft RF Probe
Funny you should mention that -- just in the past few days I was
browsing
through an old
ECTED]
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft RF Probe
Funny you should mention that -- just in the past few days I was
browsing
through an old [1968 edition] ARRL "Hints and Kinks". In an article
titled
"Diode Protection for the Heath R.F. Probe" the author suggested
adding a
NE-51 n
t KX1
40M Inverted V
20M Dipole
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Al Gulseth
Sent: Monday, May 22, 2006 5:44 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net; [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft RF Probe
Funny you should mention that -- just in the
diode).
73 es GL, Al
On Mon May 22 2006 06:53 pm, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> Date: Mon, 22 May 2006 17:22:23 -0500
> From: "Stan Rife" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Subject: [Elecraft] Elecraft RF Probe
> To:
> Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Content-Type: text/
H. That means you need more than 100V. Maybe a pair if 1N5711s in
series with balancing resistors?
Larry N8LP
Stan Rife wrote:
I forgot to mention that I put a 1N4148 in and it seems to have
taken it out too.
I put too much voltage on my poor probe. Is there a heavier
How about a 1N5711?
Larry N8LP
Stan Rife wrote:
I put too much voltage on my poor probe. Is there a heavier diode
that will take a little more voltage, say around 70v, that I can replace the
1N31A with?
Stan Rife
W5EWA
Houston, TX
K2 S/N 4216
I forgot to mention that I put a 1N4148 in and it seems to have
taken it out too.
I put too much voltage on my poor probe. Is there a heavier diode
that will take a little more voltage, say around 70v, that I can replace the
1N31A with?
Stan Rife
W5EWA
Houston, TX
K2 S/N 4216
I put too much voltage on my poor probe. Is there a heavier diode
that will take a little more voltage, say around 70v, that I can replace the
1N31A with?
Stan Rife
W5EWA
Houston, TX
K2 S/N 4216
___
Elecraft mailing list
Post to: Elecraft@mai
Thanks for pointing me in the right direction! Nice photo on the pen probe.
___
Elecraft mailing list
Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
You must be a subscriber to post to the list.
Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.):
http://mailman.qth.ne
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Don Scippa
> Sent: Wednesday, February 09, 2005 1:03 PM
> To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> Subject: [Elecraft] RF probe
>
>
> Hi Guys,
> Just ran into a problem with the K-1 vfo checkout. Not getting
> signal from
> the vfo so I need
>
Hi Guys,
Just ran into a problem with the K-1 vfo checkout. Not getting signal from
the vfo so I need
a schematic for an RF probe. I tried to take a look at one on the Elecraft
site, but all I got was a blank page.
Double checked every component for correct value and all
solder connections loo
Steve,
Solder carefully so you don't get solder in the threads. Should some wick
through, use a utility knife to cut the solder out of the threads.
There is an alternative - don't use the banana plugs at all!!! If you have
an old computer power supply laying around, try your DMM prods into
It also looks like you need to save 6 or 7 inches of the RG-174 for the
frequency probe. I didn't see any other uses for it in the manual -- I
hope I'm not wrong!
Leigh.
Sam Binkley wrote:
Steve,
I didn't solder mine. I just placed the wire in the threads of the
plastic and screwed the
Steve,
I didn't solder mine. I just placed the wire in the threads of the
plastic and screwed the plug into it pinching the wire against the
plug. Seems to work fine for me.
Sam, KL7V/5
Steve Harpole, DDS. wrote:
I am at the point where the first check of the front and control panels c
I am at the point where the first check of the front and control panels check
out OK and all seems good but I was wondering how others attached the minature
coax to the banana plugs for the RF Probe construction. It looks as if one
would destroy the plug as the hole where I think you solder is
58 matches
Mail list logo
