On Friday 05 June 2020 23:46:24 Chris Albertson wrote:
> Is the test block over sized by the same amount if you measure one
> block or 4? Or is it always over sized by the same amount?
>
> This will tell you if the scale is wrong or if the oversize is just
> that the skin is thicker and more
On Friday 05 June 2020 21:36:00 Gregg Eshelman via Emc-users wrote:
> Elmer's disappearing purple school glue stick seems to be a favorite
> with 3D printers. I've used Duck brand archival acid free glue stick.
> Rub all over the build plate, drag a wet paper towel around to smooth
> it. By the
Is the test block over sized by the same amount if you measure one block or
4? Or is it always over sized by the same amount?
This will tell you if the scale is wrong or if the oversize is just that
the skin is thicker and more rough than it should be. There should be a
constant AND a
Elmer's disappearing purple school glue stick seems to be a favorite with 3D
printers. I've used Duck brand archival acid free glue stick.
Rub all over the build plate, drag a wet paper towel around to smooth it. By
the time the bed heats up the glue is dry. When the bed cools the print pops
On Friday 05 June 2020 13:44:22 Karl Jacobs wrote:
> Hi Gene,
>
> take the attached file for 5mm calibration steps and put it into Cura
> for slicing. This is about as simple as it gets for initial tests.
This I take it is to be used to diddle a xyz scales? its between .1
and .2mm oversize in
On Sat, 6 Jun 2020 at 00:32, Chris Albertson
wrote:
For "adhesion method" I choose "skirt." it seems this would be
> usless because it draws a circle aroubd the part without even touching.
> But I always look and visually check the quality of the circle. If it is
> flat on top and not gaps
For bad adhesion, glue sicks work well. The glue is thick and
telegraphas a pattern to the part, Smoothing with wter helps. and then
the heated bed dies the water. Covering the bed with blue paiter's tape
works if you clean the tape after with alcohol.
The it thing is nozel hight.The
On Friday 05 June 2020 17:05:45 Chris Albertson wrote:
> First off the motor is limited to 3 Nm or whatever. It can not crush
> plastic. The worst case a pulley will see is a stalled out drive
> motor and after the motor stops it can not pull harder. So maybe "10
> pounds max" is all the
On Friday 05 June 2020 17:05:45 Chris Albertson wrote:
> First off the motor is limited to 3 Nm or whatever. It can not crush
> plastic. The worst case a pulley will see is a stalled out drive
> motor and after the motor stops it can not pull harder. So maybe "10
> pounds max" is all the
First off the motor is limited to 3 Nm or whatever. It can not crush
plastic. The worst case a pulley will see is a stalled out drive motor
and after the motor stops it can not pull harder. So maybe "10 pounds
max" is all the part can ever see.
That said what you want to adjust is the "wall
In my experience, the plastic build sheets that ship with most of the
low cost printers are OK for several PLA prints but the surface degrades
quickly. The adhesive backing fails and the plastic peels off the build
plate when trying to print ABS on a 110C bed, and that's a great
opportunity to
On Friday 05 June 2020 13:48:12 Gene Heskett wrote:
> On Friday 05 June 2020 11:13:19 Dave Matthews wrote:
> > On Fri, Jun 5, 2020 at 8:34 AM Gene Heskett
>
> wrote:
> > > After doing that one, i took the right post slider loose and
> > > loosened its fit on the vertical, as I noted there were Z
On Friday 05 June 2020 13:44:22 Karl Jacobs wrote:
> Hi Gene,
>
> take the attached file for 5mm calibration steps and put it into Cura
> for slicing. This is about as simple as it gets for initial tests.
> Download
> https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:763622 for the benchy-boat torture
> test.
On Friday 05 June 2020 11:13:19 Dave Matthews wrote:
> On Fri, Jun 5, 2020 at 8:34 AM Gene Heskett
wrote:
> > After doing that one, i took the right post slider loose and
> > loosened its fit on the vertical, as I noted there were Z movements
> > that weren't making to the other end of the bar.
Hi Gene,
take the attached file for 5mm calibration steps and put it into Cura
for slicing. This is about as simple as it gets for initial tests.
Download
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:763622 for the benchy-boat torture
test. After you optimized that, you are a master.
Let me tell you that I
On Friday 05 June 2020 08:51:56 andy pugh wrote:
> On Fri, 5 Jun 2020 at 13:34, Gene Heskett
> wrote:
>
> But before I try another 10 hour print, I'd like to see an improved
> much
>
> > better filled tooth profile, my guess is that its 10% or less, no
> > high strength fill behind what might be
On Fri, Jun 5, 2020 at 8:34 AM Gene Heskett wrote:
>
>
> After doing that one, i took the right post slider loose and loosened its
> fit on the vertical, as I noted there were Z movements that weren't
> making to the other end of the bar.
>
> And raised the tension in the x belt which turned out
On Fri, 5 Jun 2020 at 13:34, Gene Heskett wrote:
But before I try another 10 hour print, I'd like to see an improved much
> better filled tooth profile, my guess is that its 10% or less, no high
> strength fill behind what might be called teeth. I'd like to see a 100%
> fill for at least 4mm
After doing that one, i took the right post slider loose and loosened its
fit on the vertical, as I noted there were Z movements that weren't
making to the other end of the bar.
And raised the tension in the x belt which turned out to be slack enough
it was just laying on the right end
19 matches
Mail list logo
