Has anyone made any observations after seeing the photos of the shields I
removed??
I gather the question was that some shields cost more than others depending
on year??
Just curious.
Sincerely,
Larry T ('74 911, '67 MGB, 91 300D Turbo)
A Blood Test for your oil - www.youroil.net
For Test Re
I've watched CostCo do what you describe. The receipt says 90 #'sFt but
I'm suspicious. Of course, I;ve never had huge difficulty removing them so
maybe it just looked like that's what they did. But I'm sure some shops do
that. Put 120#s on the lugs then click a torque wrence set for 90#'s
Zoltan Finks wrote:
Glad I saw this thread. I've been wondering, as I put my 240D through its
paces, which is a more important element of the Italian Tune-up: the RPMs or
the acceleration? I've been following the advice of the list and driving my
new (used) engine in banshee-like fashion.
The
On 4/1/06, David Brodbeck <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> OK Don wrote:
> > I don't use anti-seize on lug bolts, but I ALWAYS use a torqye wrench.
> > I will NOT take a car to a tire shop. I remove the wheels here, and
> > take them to the shop.
>
> There are some shops that are pretty good. I took
Or you could wait for my senior design project to finish ;) Its a
replacement similar to the Unwired tools, but should be about half the
price ($350).
If you can DIY for only as little as half the commercial price then
the commercial price is probably pretty reasonable! You could probably
do v
Curt Raymond wrote:
> Neither, its really more of full power used over time. Its the extra heat
> developed at full power that loosens the carbon and time that allows it to
> flake off and come out.
I gave my car a mini Italian tuneup last week, driving on the freeway in
S. It saw RPMs and wat
I am too. We've taken my 190D to Maine for the weekend (about 150 miles each
way). My Italian tuneups seem to have paid off, the trip is at 300 miles right
now and the tank is still on half. Last week when I thought I'd run it out of
fuel it took 14gal so I'm thinking I've finally gotten to arou
On Sat, 1 Apr 2006 13:17:45 -0500 <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Anyway - if you'd like to try an assortment, I bought mine from
> www.boltdepot.com for around $23 per set. Much cheaper if the fasteners
> were purchased seperately.
Larry,
They list product #7539 at
http://www.boltdepot.com/prod
ned kleinhenz wrote:
Marshall:
Thanks for the information.
I see now, the chain stretch for a 606 is checked at #1 TDC before the power
stroke.
The little hole in the drivers side cam gear lines up with a hole in the
front cam journal.
It takes a pin larger than 5 mm, but smaller than 5.5 mm to v
On Sat, 1 Apr 2006 16:56:08 -0500 "Dwight E. Giles, Jr" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
wrote:
> Jim,
> It parks OK-i.e.. it finishes cycle after you turn it off. I think I
> recall when the problem happened-tied to run wipers under heavy snow&
> ice.
Yup, that might bend something.
> Should I try moving
Jim,
It parks OK-i.e.. it finishes cycle after you turn it off. I think I
recall when the problem happened-tied to run wipers under heavy snow&
ice.
Should I try moving the arm as Johnny B suggested in an earlier post?
Are those grill rivets reusable?
Thanks.
Dwight Giles, Jr
1979 240D auto, 250
Marshall:
Thanks for the information.
I see now, the chain stretch for a 606 is checked at #1 TDC before the power
stroke.
The little hole in the drivers side cam gear lines up with a hole in the
front cam journal.
It takes a pin larger than 5 mm, but smaller than 5.5 mm to verify alignment
of thos
Is this a relay problem?
The intermittent relay is also hooked into the park position, in
that if the relay is missing both intermittent and auto parking
don't work. (It was kicked and snapped off in its socket in the
last SL we bought.) That is, the switch and contact inside the
motor go to t
No affiliation, etc. If you want me to take a look, I can.
http://columbus.craigslist.org/car/147215376.html
--
Sunil Hari
1992 300D 2.5T - 286Kmi.
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
513-205-7474
OK-that makes sense-it seems to be almost the same wrong place-even
after we messed with the arms except it's worse now-higher up.
Thanks.
Dwight Giles, Jr
1979 240D auto, 250K + miles
1990 300D 2.5t, 130K miles
Wickford, RI
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROT
On Apr 1, 2006, at 3:06 PM, Dwight E. Giles, Jr wrote:
Anyway my questions are:
Is there an adjustment on the linkage under the cowl?
Is this a relay problem?
Has anyone else BTDT?
TIA.
Dwight Giles, Jr
1979 240D auto, 250K + miles
1990 300D 2.5t, 130K miles
Wickford, RI
If it parks in the
OK Don wrote:
> I don't use anti-seize on lug bolts, but I ALWAYS use a torqye wrench.
> I will NOT take a car to a tire shop. I remove the wheels here, and
> take them to the shop.
There are some shops that are pretty good. I took my car to the local
Les Schwab, and saw them doing final tighteni
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> Hi David,
> Thanks for the reply --
>
> re: the antisieze on spark plugs - I thought the controversary was that the
> antiseize made the ground connection difficult to attain and the plugs would
> misfire?
I've heard that theory, but I suspect the real problem is peo
I have an old problem with where wipers stop on the 79 240D. I had
posted it to this list a long time ago but no real solution emerged.
Now RI has new inspection rules for diesel cars and it failed inspection
because the wipers can't be stopped at the bottom of the arc to be out
of the line of si
On Apr 1, 2006, at 10:42 AM, Bob DuPuy wrote:
Johny!
I thought it was you that recomended Hylomar. I went to their web
site, which product do you recomend for head gaskets? Do you have any
additional wisdom to share, as to application? I can't afford to screw
the pooch on this one.
Thanks,
Bo
Didn't occur to me that you might have the Unwired Tools retro kit,
Rusty. If you do, I'm definitely interested. If not, why don't you
give them a holler & see if you can get hooked up. They do sell to
the public but if you can get them for a better price, I sure don't
have any problem with you
David Brodbeck wrote:
Marshall Booth wrote:
Two seconds delay into reverse is normal. When that increases to 3+
seconds, that indicates wear of the reverse clutch pack (when it's worn
EVERYTHING can slip). That is the usual presenting symptom for a worn
out transmission - one that will slip.
On Sat, Apr 01, 2006 at 08:49:40AM -0500, John Berryman wrote:
> Right now I'm trying to track down a nasty creak out back that
> showed up after driving in a slush storm with salt laden roads. It
> has low mileage and everything looks great. After hosing it all down
> with silicone bus
- Original Message -
From: "Robert & Tara Ludwick" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Yes, with anti seize reduce the torque by between 14-30% for accurate
torque depending on the antiseize compound. Contact the manufacturer of
the compound for recommendation.
Lugs usually aren't too picky, but thre
What? It's not parked on your front lawn yet?
On 4/1/06, LT Don <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> http://makeashorterlink.com/?B686234EC
>
> --
> "There're always enemies, George. Jesus had enemies."
> -- Tom Clancy, _Executive Orders_
>
> 1977 240D
> 1983 VW Quantum turbo diesel 5-speed
> 1972 Honda C
Howdy,
When I work on cars I'm often faced with the need to replace fasteners.
In the past, I headed for Lowes, Home Depot or if during the week and I
needed something "odd" I'd go to the local fastener store. Or, ... I'd
rummage thru my drawers of "old stuff that I can't bear to throw away
http://makeashorterlink.com/?B686234EC
--
"There're always enemies, George. Jesus had enemies."
-- Tom Clancy, _Executive Orders_
1977 240D
1983 VW Quantum turbo diesel 5-speed
1972 Honda CB-500K motorcycle
http://www.airamericaradio.com/listen
Howdy -
Pulled the TC drain plug and couldn't tell if there was a crush washer on
it - it wasn't when I crawled out and looked but I worry I may have lost it
when I stood up. Naturally the WSM doesn't make any mention of the AT.
Is there supposed to be a aluminum crush washer on the TC drain
I don't use anti-seize on lug bolts, but I ALWAYS use a torqye wrench.
I will NOT take a car to a tire shop. I remove the wheels here, and
take them to the shop.
A buddy of mine got a 560SEL with recently replaced brakes. When he
went to get new tires, 5 lug bolts broke trying to get them off. He
I got my stash of anti-seize from an aircraft mechanic - it's almost
mandatory on spark plugs going into aluminum cylinder heads! I've used
it on all my spark plugs since the mid '60s - aircraft and auto - with
not one problem, and probably have prevented lots of head work.
That having been said, m
Cool! Looks like someone has modified their S430 to suit their individual
taste!
Leave it to those crzy guys in Detroit!
Sincerely,
Larry T ('74 911, '67 MGB, 91 300D Turbo)
A Blood Test for your oil - www.youroil.net
For Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
Weber Carb Stuff htt
WOW James !!
Those things must have been really tight!! I worked at a VW?Porsche dealer
in the late 60's as a Mechanics Apprentice and one thing we were constantly
told was to *Never* use a air wrench to tighten the lug nuts/studs. But
sure enough, a few days would pass, someone would get in
Hi David,
Thanks for the reply --
re: the antisieze on spark plugs - I thought the controversary was that the
antiseize made the ground connection difficult to attain and the plugs would
misfire?
Sincerely,
Larry T ('74 911, '67 MGB, 91 300D Turbo)
A Blood Test for your oil - www.youroil.net
On Sat, 1 Apr 2006 09:27:37 -0500 "Rusty Cullens" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
wrote:
>>> I'm really tired of dealing with that particular Rube Goldberg
>>> device; so I'm thinking of investing in the Unwired Tools replacement
>>> for it and the amp. Anybody in these parts had experience with same?
>>> I
On Sat, 1 Apr 2006 02:49:42 -0600 "Zoltan Finks"
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Nice info. I should reiterate, though, that the reason I'm considering
> doing this is that the dash lights are simply not working. It's not that
> I'm dissatisfied with their brightness.
>
> And Craig, that sounds like
On Fri, 31 Mar 2006 23:51:27 -0500 Mitch Haley <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> David Brodbeck wrote:
> >
> > Could the number be the number of cable revolutions per mile, maybe?
>
> That's very close to what I was guessing, except I wouldn't be surprised
> if K=kilometer.
Yes, that makes a lot of
Johny!
I thought it was you that recomended Hylomar. I went to their web
site, which product do you recomend for head gaskets? Do you have any
additional wisdom to share, as to application? I can't afford to screw
the pooch on this one.
Thanks,
Bob DuPuy
Jeff, thanks for the link - that's VERY close, but not quite what I
need. :-( That's a Gen 1 front bumper, which I think would clear an
intercooler. The problem is, despite the seller's claim, the square
light holes accept Bosch lights which are only available as driving
lights - I don't know of an
On Apr 1, 2006, at 12:39 AM, David Brodbeck wrote:
I'd just add that there's an excellent documentary about meth here:
http://www.pbs.org/wgbh/pages/frontline/meth/view/
Worth the time, it is a real eye-opener.
Johnny B.
I Mac Therefore I am
On Apr 1, 2006, at 9:01 AM, Bob DuPuy wrote:
I'm doing another OM603 head today, actually putting a decent 350SDL
head on a 300SDL. In the past I've always put the gasket on dry, but
this time I'm considering using a sealer like Permatex copper spray on
the head side. There are a few pits aroun
Fluff city, Craig. There are some knowledgeable folk over there but
it strikes me as mainly a lonely hearts club. It's all good, though;
there've gotta be worse ways to wile away the hours.
joe
Yes, with anti seize reduce the torque by between 14-30% for accurate
torque depending on the antiseize compound. Contact the manufacturer of
the compound for recommendation.
Lugs usually aren't too picky, but threading spark plugs or glow plugs
or injectors into an aluminum head, that 30% wil
I'm cheap and I hate to buy one use tools. In this case I leave the
belt on and add some tension by inserting the end of the lug wrench in
the belt adjuster and push to "help" the spring. If the belt is tight
the inertia of the engine is enough to keep things stationary. I use a
regular allen wrenc
Don't forget, I have them to sell.
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of jlervine
Sent: Friday, March 31, 2006 3:33 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] ACC II servo woes
> While the wagon's being dealt with we've had to fall back
We're waiting for the inevitable end result, where you tear down an
engine and replace only the rings that seem to need it.
BTDT. On the generator! I never like to repeat a trick.
OK, an exaggeration. What I did _not_ replace on it, which one
might usually have done, are the bearings and pi
I'm doing another OM603 head today, actually putting a decent 350SDL
head on a 300SDL. In the past I've always put the gasket on dry, but
this time I'm considering using a sealer like Permatex copper spray on
the head side. There are a few pits around water passages and the like
on the replacement
We're waiting for the inevitable end result, where you tear down an
engine and replace only the rings that seem to need it.
BTDT. On the generator! I never like to repeat a trick.
-- Jim
On Apr 1, 2006, at 8:16 AM, Kaleb C. Striplin wrote:
bet the 2.5 drives really nice then
It does. You can notice the lack of a turbo when pulling long hills
but other than that no complaints. If you hit the hills really moving
(at illegal speeds) its barely noticeable.
Right now I'm
bet the 2.5 drives really nice then
John Berryman wrote:
On Mar 31, 2006, at 11:55 PM, Kaleb C. Striplin wrote:
It sure seems more peppy around town that I Though it would, and
cruises
down the highway well also. ITs turning darn near 4k though going
around 75
2.2s are like th
David Brodbeck wrote:
>
> Could the number be the number of cable revolutions per mile, maybe?
That's very close to what I was guessing, except I wouldn't be surprised
if K=kilometer.
On Apr 1, 2006, at 1:33 AM, Joe Knight wrote:
All's just peachy, Johnny B. Seems I remember your presence being
missed for a while before I went futilely foraging for greener
pastures. Glad you're back as well.
So, the grass is not greener on the other side of the fence, eh? Its
been bus
On Mar 31, 2006, at 11:55 PM, Kaleb C. Striplin wrote:
It sure seems more peppy around town that I Though it would, and
cruises
down the highway well also. ITs turning darn near 4k though going
around 75
2.2s are like that.
Johnny B.
I Mac Therefore I am
On Mar 31, 2006, at 11:53 PM, Kaleb C. Striplin wrote:
when you are ready to sell your 190, let me know.
John Berryman wrote:
I'm not sure we'll all live that long. cathy will squeeze the last
breaths out of it before she's ready to let it go. That'll change
when she sees the 124 that h
On Mar 31, 2006, at 11:46 PM, Kaleb C. Striplin wrote:
well for instance, I have one sitting here that was in a 240D I
believe,
so it says k=1425, that means that its calibrated for a 4.25 rear end
OK. I'll look for those markings.
Johnny B.
I Mac Therefore I am
On Mar 31, 2006, at 11:20 PM, redghost wrote:
I learned that if I want anything, I have to be first in the door.
Got
a CD stereo and some other junk today. Really makes the mezkins mad
when the white guy is there waiting for the car. Keeps them under
control until I walk away. May have to
On Mar 31, 2006, at 7:27 PM, Marshall Booth wrote:
The rear of a 190D 2.5 automatic is a 3.07. My 190D 2.0 doesn't have a
tach either. A tach cost more.
Marshall
Thank-you.
Johnny B.
I Mac Therefore I am
Ahh. And there are definite corollaries between Volvo owners and Saab
owners. We all just like well-made, intelligently-designed autos.
Glad I saw this thread. I've been wondering, as I put my 240D through its
paces, which is a more important element of the Italian Tune-up: the RPMs or
the acceler
Then you could treat yourself to a nice soothing nail bed treament with the
excess.
Seriously though, I do cringe at having to stand and jump on the wrench to
bust loose lugs. There is that split second when you hear the crack and feel
it give way and you don't know whether it's loosened or you've
Thanks, I got them all fine!!
Nice info. I should reiterate, though, that the reason I'm considering doing
this is that the dash lights are simply not working. It's not that I'm
dissatisfied with their brightness.
And Craig, that sounds like a neat trick with the aluminim foil. Cool.
Brian
83 240D
On 3/31/06, David Brodbeck
The subject of this thread should be changed from "this guy is an idiot" to
"we guys are enthusiasts".
Conversely, guys like me are content to know simply that "yeah, I'm going a
bit faster than the speedo reads, and I have somewhat higher miles than the
odo reads".
On one of my vehicles, I was a
On Fri, Mar 31, 2006 at 10:44:29PM -0800, David Brodbeck wrote:
> Jim Cathey wrote:
> > Man, I lob an easy one to y'all and nobody even swats at it?
> > How about my next write-up being on the types of glue and knots
> > that work best for repairing rubber bands? I was expecting at
> > least a _li
Walt, if the wheel is 14", then it is not a 15 hole wheel but rather,
a bundt wheel which was standard on the W126 through 1985.
A 15 hole wheel has a "flat face" and the bundt does not.
On 3/31/06, W. Lasher <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> I don't know if this is what your looking for but I ha
Jim Cathey wrote:
> Man, I lob an easy one to y'all and nobody even swats at it?
> How about my next write-up being on the types of glue and knots
> that work best for repairing rubber bands? I was expecting at
> least a _little_ bit of razzing.
We're waiting for the inevitable end result, where
Man, I lob an easy one to y'all and nobody even swats at it?
How about my next write-up being on the types of glue and knots
that work best for repairing rubber bands? I was expecting at
least a _little_ bit of razzing.
-- Jim
Craig McCluskey wrote:
> On Fri, 31 Mar 2006 22:46:39 -0600 "Kaleb C. Striplin"
> <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
>> well for instance, I have one sitting here that was in a 240D I believe,
>> so it says k=1425, that means that its calibrated for a 4.25 rear end
>
> But 240Ds don't have 4.25 rear en
All's just peachy, Johnny B. Seems I remember your presence being
missed for a while before I went futilely foraging for greener
pastures. Glad you're back as well.
As for you, Kaleb, what can I say.. Laissez les bon temps rouler &
keep up the good work! :)
joe
price ($350). The most expensive part of the whole project is the
vacuum valves ($125 for four) so if you want to find some used ones
you
should be able to reduce that cost even further.
The bank of 4 (or is it 5) that's in the later VDO ACC system
comes to mind. Junkyards are full of them.
Hello List,
I'd appreciate it very much if Kaleb or anyone else can run a VIN check on
this MB.
WDBCA32A1EA049659
TIA,
Omar.
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> Next - should I use Anti-Seize on the lug bolts before I tighten and
> "torque" them? There seems to be some metal to metal corrosion on them.
> But I seem to recall some controversary about this --
I do it routinely and I've never had a problem. It does seem to help
Craig McCluskey wrote:
> On Fri, 31 Mar 2006 11:04:13 -0600 "Zoltan Finks"
> <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
>> Has anyone successfully jumped across the dash-light dimmer in order to
>> get their dash lights to work (and just stay on full brightness)? I'm
>> not feeling inclined to try to remove and
Marshall Booth wrote:
> Two seconds delay into reverse is normal. When that increases to 3+
> seconds, that indicates wear of the reverse clutch pack (when it's worn
> EVERYTHING can slip). That is the usual presenting symptom for a worn
> out transmission - one that will slip.
Mine goes into r
On Fri, 31 Mar 2006 22:51:53 -0600 "Kaleb C. Striplin"
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Well we sometimes have a high signal to noise ratio to, but nothing like
> they have, glad to have you!!
>
> Joe Knight wrote:
>
> > R/E's been an education in what constitutes a seriously high signal to
> > nois
Curt Raymond wrote:
> I've been a convert for a few years now, why else would I subject myself to
> this?
> Most people don't understand but I was talking to a guy the other day who
> said "I'm like that with Volvos". We got on great.
Having owned both, I see a lot of parallels between Volvo a
John Berryman wrote:
> I'm glad this crap isn't too popular around here. NY State has the
> lowest increase in Meth abuse/arrests in the country. In many states
> it has reached epidemic proportions.
> These ads are not for the weak at heart but seem to drive the point
> home. My
On Fri, 31 Mar 2006 11:04:13 -0600 "Zoltan Finks"
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Has anyone successfully jumped across the dash-light dimmer in order to
> get their dash lights to work (and just stay on full brightness)? I'm
> not feeling inclined to try to remove and replace or fix it at this
> tim
The hooker in KS just hooked up the POS SDL by the tail and made the
front end roll
On Friday, March 31, 2006, at 06:24 AM, Potter, Tom E wrote:
I thought the M-B COULD be towed without disconnecting the driveshaft.
Don't take my word for it though; I have never done it. Maybe someone
on
the
dave walton wrote:
> In my case, the pinging/nailing was corrected by replacing the injectors.
I had a VW that started nailing badly on one cylinder after a head
gasket job. I took the injectors to a shop and had them all pop tested.
All were worn out to one degree or another, so I bought a rebu
On Fri, 31 Mar 2006 22:46:39 -0600 "Kaleb C. Striplin"
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> well for instance, I have one sitting here that was in a 240D I believe,
> so it says k=1425, that means that its calibrated for a 4.25 rear end
But 240Ds don't have 4.25 rear ends. Theirs are something like 3.69.
No affiliation or interest. Delete as needed.
http://seattle.craigslist.org/car/147056344.html -- 2.2 5spd $4k
http://seattle.craigslist.org/car/147049834.html -- 82 300D $2k
http://seattle.craigslist.org/car/147048107.html -- 81 SD $3k
http://seattle.craigslist.org/car/146871723.html
Yes - I might be interested if the servo in my SLC doesn't act right
after sitting two years.
Anyone want to start a pool on whether it will work?
I have been wondering what the status of your project was - even
visited the project's web site last week! Thanks for bringing back to
our attention.
yea, 102 is what I meant.
Hendrik Riessen wrote:
Just to be precise, the 4 cylnider motor in a 123 230TE is a M102, the M103
is it's bigger 6 cylinder brother with the KE-jetronic fuel delivery system
(and was never fitted to the 123 chasis).
Also the M102 in the 201 chassis is KE injected whi
It sure seems more peppy around town that I Though it would, and cruises
down the highway well also. ITs turning darn near 4k though going around 75
--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE, 85 300D,
84 190D 2.2, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D, 81 240D,
76 450
when you are ready to sell your 190, let me know.
John Berryman wrote:
On Mar 31, 2006, at 1:27 PM, Marshall Booth wrote:
190D 2.0 with a 3.23 rear
uses a different speedometer than my 190D 2.2s with 3.42 rears, my
190D
2.5 with a 3.07 rear or my 190D 2.5t with a 2.65 rear. The
transmiss
Well we sometimes have a high signal to noise ratio to, but nothing like
they have, glad to have you!!
Joe Knight wrote:
R/E's been an education in what constitutes a seriously high signal to
noise ratio.
--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE, 85 300
I have done that before, only cause for worry though is if something
breaks loose with oil or coolant and it looses either one and you
wouldnt know it.
Jim Cathey wrote:
keep it in working order! I was even told by someone to leave the
engine
running to lubricate the tranny which also saves
no more smoking at all, I drove it to work in tulsa today. The tranny
seems to be shifting fine at the moment as near as I can tell, so shall
see if it holds up. Will a 190E tranny fit in it also?
Marshall Booth wrote:
Kaleb C. Striplin wrote:
Well I got all the pepto out of the tranny, ju
check this S class ad out
http://seattle.craigslist.org/car/147122250.html
At least you can clearly see the car. Even if it is a Cadillac.
Rick Knoble
'85 300 CD
'87 190 DT
hasnt joe been here since our move before, or not?
John Berryman wrote:
On Mar 31, 2006, at 11:46 AM, Joe Knight wrote:
joe (yeah, I'm back)
___
Joe,
How's everything? I've been wondering about you lately. I found
Kalebs new list accidently when a m
well for instance, I have one sitting here that was in a 240D I believe,
so it says k=1425, that means that its calibrated for a 4.25 rear end
John Berryman wrote:
On Mar 31, 2006, at 10:13 AM, Kaleb C. Striplin wrote:
No, the speedo has to be calibrated to whatever rear end is in the
car,
yea, not big deal.
Zoltan Finks wrote:
Has anyone successfully jumped across the dash-light dimmer in order to get
their dash lights to work (and just stay on full brightness)? I'm not
feeling inclined to try to remove and replace or fix it at this time.
Brian
83 240D
_
what are you going to do with it? You already have too many cars with
major problems.
Luther Gulseth wrote:
Sounds like it's time to sell it to me.
~It now has 122,000 miles and I've noticed in the last couple of weeks the
~transmission is sometimes slow engaging into forward. It can take
Im really starting to take to the little 201's. This one drives pretty
well, tranny doesnt appear yet to be to screwed from the coolant in it.
So lets just pray for the best. Im really wanting to get a 5 speed
version as well as a 2.5 turbo version soon. As a side note, the tranny
in the 85
I will never install a lug bolt without anti-seize and a torque wrench. The
previous owner had new tires installed before I picked up the car, however, he
had them installed at a truck tire center. Yep, they used the big impact
wrench. I used my own impact wrench to try and get them off, no l
I learned that if I want anything, I have to be first in the door. Got
a CD stereo and some other junk today. Really makes the mezkins mad
when the white guy is there waiting for the car. Keeps them under
control until I walk away. May have to do with telling them to give
the fork lift a ch
Jim Cathey wrote:
>
> > keep it in working order! I was even told by someone to leave the
> > engine
> > running to lubricate the tranny which also saves the driveshaft
> > removal job.
>
> That also works.
Provided the engine doesn't stall or run out of fuel.
Let me know when they are ready, John!
I've been paticently waiting.
Bob Rentfro
'77 300D 151K
Litchfield Park, AZ
- Original Message -
From: "John Robbins" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Mercedes Discussion List" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Friday, March 31, 2006 1:45 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ]
Here's the second half - #'s 4,5 & 6.
;-)
Let me know if they get there ok -
Sincerely,
Larry T ('74 911, '67 MGB, 91 300D Turbo)
A Blood Test for your oil - www.youroil.net
For Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
Weber Carb Stuff http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
http://members.renn
Here you go Jeff - I'll send 3 of 6 then another email with the rest -- =
Sincerely,
Larry T ('74 911, '67 MGB, 91 300D Turbo)
A Blood Test for your oil - www.youroil.net
For Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
Weber Carb Stuff http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
http://members.rennli
Up in ballard in seattle...
I tell ya, the more I look at this, the more I think
that it might be fine. Except for the movment int he
chain, everything looks super tight. There is no slop
in the sprket, the chain seems tight.
I'll line it up in the morning based on some new
suggestions from the
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