2015 11:40 AM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Overheating 240D revisited
> http://seattle.craigslist.org/see/cto/5246852138.html
I sure hate intermittents!
-- Jim
___
http://www.okiebenz.com
To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
To Unsubs
What I found that probably does not fit the bill
http://seattle.craigslist.org/see/cto/5247862716.html
Well, they're certainly proud of that!
"Properly maintained the entirety of its life." and "timing chain
just broke on it and it doesn't run. will need to be towed. Will make
great project
What I found that probably does not fit the bill
http://seattle.craigslist.org/see/cto/5247862716.html
Well, they're certainly proud of that!
http://seattle.craigslist.org/sno/cto/5253972729.html
Gas, ugh. Interesting possibility, though. "Doesn't run"
covers a lot of ground, though. And
DAMN, I forgot your progeny was of that age!
Goes by fast. Will be 14yo in a couple of weeks, that gives us
a year and change to find/fix car before driving lessons begin.
There is a really nice looking w115 by me. Driver door got smacked
and is now gathering parking tickets. Not mine, but
What I found that probably does not fit the bill
http://seattle.craigslist.org/see/cto/5247862716.html
http://seattle.craigslist.org/sno/cto/5253972729.html
http://seattle.craigslist.org/see/cto/5246619211.html
http://seattle.craigslist.org/see/cto/5247748110.html
http://seattle.craigslist.org
DAMN, I forgot your progeny was of that age!
There is a really nice looking w115 by me. Driver door got smacked and is now
gathering parking tickets. Not mine, but it should really go to a good home if
the owner will part with it.
Local w123 are either scrap or over priced at the moment.
Great criteria! Mine were the same, except I didn't demand manual
trans.
I want him to be able to drive anything. What he _chooses_
for himself, later, will then be up to him.
Early days yet, no guarantee that an MB will be the final choice.
But it's nice if it hasn't been eliminated already.
Way to go Dimitri. Keep us posted.
On Oct 8, 2015 6:37 PM, "Dimitri via Mercedes"
wrote:
> Winter is setting in and I need a winter beater as my China blue 240D is
> still undergoing rust repair and I'm certainly not driving the BMW 2002 or
> the pagoda in the snow! So, I went to flaps, bought a
#1 (and only) son now allows as to how a 240D 123 (manual)
might be a contender as his first car. The Beetle is out
because he's taking up the string bass. We already know
that they basically don't fit in those, that's why the
neighbors got rid of theirs. Anyway, once he hits 14yo
this month ca
Excellent choice! Our youngest two learned to drive in the 240D Manual W123
(it was bought new by their great-grandfather).
On Thu, Oct 8, 2015 at 8:59 PM, Jim Cathey via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
> #1 (and only) son now allows as to how a 240D 123 (manual)
> might be a contender a
#1 (and only) son now allows as to how a 240D 123 (manual)
might be a contender as his first car. The Beetle is out
because he's taking up the string bass. We already know
that they basically don't fit in those, that's why the
neighbors got rid of theirs. Anyway, once he hits 14yo
this month ca
rsday, October 8, 2015 6:37 PM
Subject: [MBZ] Overheating 240D revisited
Winter is setting in and I need a winter beater as my China blue 240D is still
undergoing rust repair and I'm certainly not driving the BMW 2002 or the pagoda
in the snow! So, I went to flaps, bought a bottle of blue
Winter is setting in and I need a winter beater as my China blue 240D is still
undergoing rust repair and I'm certainly not driving the BMW 2002 or the pagoda
in the snow! So, I went to flaps, bought a bottle of blue devil head gasket fix
and poured it into the radiator!
So far so good. But you
Lost coolant may not be obvious just by looking in the radiator if there is an
air bubble in the block. I assume this car doesn't have a coolant recovery
tank (my 123 didn't). I found it best to test for coolant system leaks using a
pressure tester on a cold engine. Wet spots from small leaks
It lost some coolant but could be from known area around tstat housing cover.
Sent from my iPhone
> On Mar 1, 2015, at 2:48 PM, Jon Agne via Mercedes
> wrote:
>
> What’s the coolant level?
>
>
>> On Mar 1, 2015, at 2:13 PM, Scott Ritchey via Mercedes
>> wrote:
>>
>> Pressurized hoses on a
Were the car mine, I would be very interested in why the system is still
pressurized after setting overnight..
Dead cold cooling systems should not have pressure, so , to me, it speaks
of combustion air incursion into the cooling system and likely, serious
over pressure somehow.. although, the rad
Yes - good question, are you losing coolant? You've got at least one leak you
know of, really need to fix that.
Pressurized coolant system in the a.m. may or may not be a problem. Definitive
test is to sample the coolant for presence of exhaust gas.
Is 250 miles without an over-heat a signifi
What’s the coolant level?
> On Mar 1, 2015, at 2:13 PM, Scott Ritchey via Mercedes
> wrote:
>
> Pressurized hoses on a cold engine is not a good sign. This is typical of a
> head problem.
>
> If it is more convenient, you can "borrow" a cooling system pressure tester
> from most FLAPS for fr
Pressurized hoses on a cold engine is not a good sign. This is typical of a
head problem.
If it is more convenient, you can "borrow" a cooling system pressure tester
from most FLAPS for free. Actually, they charge it to your credit card when
you get it and refund to your card when you return it.
I thought that a pressurized system in the AM is the result of a cracked
head or leaking head gasket.
On Sun, Mar 1, 2015 at 12:53 PM, dseretakis--- via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
> So I've driven the car now for 250 miles with blocked open tstat and no
> overheating. I'm noticing
So I've driven the car now for 250 miles with blocked open tstat and no
overheating. I'm noticing that the cooling system is pressurized in the
mornings. This morning I noticed that the upper and lower radiator hoses were
moderately swollen, and there was a puff of air when I removed radiator c
Yes. No way I'm doing that in these ridiculous temps. A nice summer project!
Sent from my iPhone
> On Feb 28, 2015, at 7:35 PM, Craig via Mercedes wrote:
>
> On Thu, 26 Feb 2015 17:16:13 -0600 Peter Frederick via Mercedes
> wrote:
>
>> Now that you have a forced open thermostat, it's time to
On Thu, 26 Feb 2015 17:16:13 -0600 Peter Frederick via Mercedes
wrote:
> Now that you have a forced open thermostat, it's time to do a citric
> acid flush.
>
> You will need a kilogram of food grade citric acid (should be able to
> find that fairly easily without spending the money for analy
I put all new hoses on the car...
Curt
Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android
___
http://www.okiebenz.com
To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_ok
Guys, It is not that weird.
That would be really weird! I need to test car for a few more days
to confirm.
Sent from my iPhone
On Feb 26, 2015, at 4:48 PM, Dwight Giles via Mercedes
wrote:
> 3 bad thermostats at least?
___
http://www.okiebenz.com
That would be really weird! I need to test car for a few more days to confirm.
Sent from my iPhone
> On Feb 26, 2015, at 4:48 PM, Dwight Giles via Mercedes
> wrote:
>
> 3 bad thermostats at least?
> On Feb 26, 2015 4:42 PM, "Randy Bennell via Mercedes"
> wrote:
>
>>> On 26/02/2015 2:56 PM,
Now that you have a forced open thermostat, it's time to do a citric
acid flush.
You will need a kilogram of food grade citric acid (should be able to
find that fairly easily without spending the money for analytical
grade). Dissolve in a gallon of water. Empty cooling system,
including
This all makes no sense since they swapped out the radiator. The car is
cursed.
On Thu, Feb 26, 2015 at 5:47 PM, archer75--- via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
>
> I just remembered a similar problem a friend had that no mechanic in the
> small town where we lived could explain. It tur
I just remembered a similar problem a friend had that no mechanic in the small
town where we lived could explain. It turned out that a piece of the rubber
that lined one of the radiator hoses was periodically blocking the water flow.
Since there were bends in the radiator hose, no one could che
Even if the thermostat is bad, I would do a pressure flush of the block
from the bottom radiator hose up to "blow out anything that might be in the
block passages", just to be sure.
This car has had a rather long history of overheat issues, spanning two
owners.. with a number of "fixes" which
3 bad thermostats at least?
On Feb 26, 2015 4:42 PM, "Randy Bennell via Mercedes"
wrote:
> On 26/02/2015 2:56 PM, Curt Raymond via Mercedes wrote:
>
>> On the one hand I hope this fixes the issue because I'd like to see it
>> fixed. On the other hand I really hope this isn't it...
>>
>> Curt
>>
>
On 26/02/2015 2:56 PM, Curt Raymond via Mercedes wrote:
On the one hand I hope this fixes the issue because I'd like to see it fixed.
On the other hand I really hope this isn't it...
Curt
So, if this did "fix" it, then the verdict would be a bad thermostat??
RB
On the one hand I hope this fixes the issue because I'd like to see it fixed.
On the other hand I really hope this isn't it...
Curt
Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android
___
http://www.okiebenz.com
To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
To Unsub
On Thu, 26 Feb 2015 13:12:51 -0500 dseretakis--- via Mercedes
wrote:
> So if the car had a head issue, would the temp drop from almost red
> zone to normal like that by engine breaking down a hill?
When you let off the throttle, the amount of fuel injected goes to almost
zero (or exactly zero, d
On Thu, Feb 26, 2015 at 1:12 PM, dseretakis--- via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
> So if the car had a head issue, would the temp drop from almost red zone
> to normal like that by engine breaking down a hill?
>
> BTW, I've been driving with forced open tstat now and the temp gauge read
So if the car had a head issue, would the temp drop from almost red zone to
normal like that by engine breaking down a hill?
BTW, I've been driving with forced open tstat now and the temp gauge reads
stone cold, even after a 15 minutes 65 mph highway drive. It will not budge.
Sent from my iPhon
gassers control combustion by a flapper in the air intake,
controlling airflow into the cyl. Diesels run at full air flow all
the time, combustion is controlled with fuel. In effect coasting
downhill, the fuel is shut off, no heat occurrs and the cylinders are
washed with lotsa cool air. not
Still not sure I understand why engine braking especially down hill would
lower temps dramatically.
Perhaps it causes an air bubble to dislodge?
Anyway, I just forced the tstat open with a piece of brass tubing. Let's see
what that does.
If I get no answers, I will take car to radiator shop. T
> dseretakis--- wrote:
>
> Interestingly, I noticed that heavy engine braking down hill
> would bring the temps from almost in the red to normal, but once
> I started accelerating the temp would rise again. Wonder why it
> did that?
At idle, most diesel engines produce very little heat. With the
Yup, it's NOT fixed. I drove the piss out of it today and it was
fine. The lower rad hose started warming up indicating coolant
circulation. No overheating. Then went to a friend's house and on
way back it started again, temp rising, no heat, the usual. It was a
7 mile trip back home that requi
Yup, it's NOT fixed. I drove the piss out of it today and it was fine. The
lower rad hose started warming up indicating coolant circulation. No
overheating. Then went to a friend's house and on way back it started again,
temp rising, no heat, the usual. It was a 7 mile trip back home that requir
I have one in ME but not with me here in MA.
Sent from my iPhone
> On Feb 25, 2015, at 11:18 AM, Dan Penoff via Mercedes
> wrote:
>
> You really need to get an IR thermometer and get a map of temperatures on the
> engine, hoses and radiator. That will yield a significant amount of
> informa
On 25/02/2015 3:45 PM, Andrew Strasfogel via Mercedes wrote:
OK, I'll bite. Just how cold is it, Randy? Preferably in degrees F.
right now - 4:15 on Wednesday, it is -16C or about 3F.
Nice bright sunny day. A bit of wind though.
Spring is coming.
RB
___
OK, I'll bite. Just how cold is it, Randy? Preferably in degrees F.
On Wed, Feb 25, 2015 at 4:31 PM, Curly McLain via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
> Dan wrote:
>>
>> It's not so much the exact >temperatures, but the differences >in
>>> temperature between the >locations. In other w
Dan wrote:
It's not so much the exact >temperatures, but
the differences >in temperature between
the >locations. In other words,
Delta.
Rick
Sent from my BlackBerry
T
T= Temperature
___
http://www.okiebenz.com
To search list archives http://www.ok
Dan wrote:
>It's not so much the exact >temperatures, but the differences >in temperature
>between the >locations. In other words,
Delta.
Rick
Sent from my BlackBerry Z10
___
http://www.okiebenz.com
To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive
No, not the exact temps, but the patterns - the head is x degrees hotter
than the top of the radiator, which is y degrees hotter than the lower rad
hose, all relative to the T-stat housing, under these conditions (ambient
temp, miles driven at z average speed, etc.).
On Wed, Feb 25, 2015 at 12:06
It's not so much the exact temperatures, but the differences in temperature
between the locations. In other words, I would expect to see the top radiator
hose be hot and the lower to be cool, for example.
This gives you a really good view into whether or not the system is working as
intended.
True. Should help.
RB who does not have one of those cars and wouldn't be able to get it
started right now if he did
On 25/02/2015 11:06 AM, OK Don via Mercedes wrote:
It would be nice if someone else with a properly working 240D would map
theirs for comparison.
On Wed, Feb 25, 2015 at 10:1
It would be nice if someone else with a properly working 240D would map
theirs for comparison.
On Wed, Feb 25, 2015 at 10:18 AM, Dan Penoff via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
> You really need to get an IR thermometer and get a map of temperatures on
> the engine, hoses and radiator. Th
You really need to get an IR thermometer and get a map of
temperatures on the engine, hoses and radiator. That will yield a
significant amount of information as far as what's going on both in
the engine and radiator.
Dan
Unlike the Hi Lift jack, the HF IR thermometers are adequate for
this.
You really need to get an IR thermometer and get a map of temperatures on the
engine, hoses and radiator. That will yield a significant amount of information
as far as what's going on both in the engine and radiator.
Dan
Sent from my iPad
> On Feb 25, 2015, at 11:06 AM, Randy Bennell via Merce
On 25/02/2015 1:20 AM, Rick Knoble via Mercedes wrote:
dsereta...@yahoo.com; wrote
No overheating. Heat working >fine.
Popped hood when arrived home, >felt lower radiator hose and it was >stone cold.
Sounds like problem solved to me.
The lower radiator hose is cold and the heater is warm, bec
I thought it was .357? I don't know anything about shell casings or
guns.
Good question about how to keep it from dislodging!
I think I used 9mm, not sure. Just grabbed something
from the brass bucket that looked like it would fit.
I used pliers to crimp the slit shut once it was over
the rod.
dsereta...@yahoo.com; wrote
>No overheating. Heat working >fine.
>Popped hood when arrived home, >felt lower radiator hose and it was >stone
>cold.
Sounds like problem solved to me.
The lower radiator hose is cold and the heater is warm, because the engine
cooling system is working as desig
Radiator runs ICE COLD!
On Tue, Feb 24, 2015 at 4:53 PM, dseretakis--- via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
> Just picked up car from the mechanic. I drive it back about 25 minutes
> local inner city driving and some small highway. No overheating. Heat
> working fine. Popped hood when arr
On Tue, 24 Feb 2015 18:38:07 -0500 dseretakis--- via Mercedes
wrote:
> It was no more than 15 degrees out when I was driving so maybe you are
> right that coolant is losing heat in radiator prior to returning to
> engine. Interesting hypothesis!
You can block the radiator with cardboard while yo
> dseretakis--- wrote:
>
> As far as Jim Cathey's mod, I don't have a shell casing so will
> be using 3/8 copper pipe. What length is good?
The one I made is 18 mm long. I used a piece of copper tube. The
length isn't super critical - as long as it is long enough. The
Behr I modified has 6
It was no more than 15 degrees out when I was driving so maybe you are right
that coolant is losing heat in radiator prior to returning to engine.
Interesting hypothesis!
Sent from my iPhone
> On Feb 24, 2015, at 6:32 PM, Peter Frederick via Mercedes
> wrote:
>
> What is the outside temp?
What is the outside temp? Around here I'd be shocked if the lower
radiator hose was warm at all even driving around in town, it's 17 at
the moment, and the coolant will lose all the heat in the radiator
long before it goes back into the engine. T-Stat is probably just
cracked open, unlik
I thought it was .357? I don't know anything about shell casings or guns.
Good question about how to keep it from dislodging!
Sent from my iPhone
> On Feb 24, 2015, at 6:06 PM, Randy Bennell wrote:
>
> what sort of shell casing was Jim suggesting?
>
> If one knew that, then one might make a pr
On 24/02/2015 3:53 PM, dseretakis--- via Mercedes wrote:
Just picked up car from the mechanic. I drive it back about 25 minutes local
inner city driving and some small highway. No overheating. Heat working fine.
Popped hood when arrived home, felt lower radiator hose and it was stone cold.
Cle
Just picked up car from the mechanic. I drive it back about 25 minutes local
inner city driving and some small highway. No overheating. Heat working fine.
Popped hood when arrived home, felt lower radiator hose and it was stone cold.
Clearly there is no flow.
Time for Cathey tstat trick.
Sent
No, just slapdash.
On Mon, Feb 23, 2015 at 12:45 PM, dseretakis--- via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
> Andrew has ADD?
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> > On Feb 23, 2015, at 12:03 PM, Randy Bennell via Mercedes <
> mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
> >
> >> On 22/02/2015 3:45 PM, Andrew Strasfo
Bubbles have never appeared in coolant.
Sent from my iPhone
> On Feb 23, 2015, at 12:42 PM, G Mann via Mercedes
> wrote:
>
> Run the engine with the radiator cap off, while you watch the coolant
> through the filler neck.
>
> If you see bubbles in the coolant while it is running, you have a c
Run the engine with the radiator cap off, while you watch the coolant
through the filler neck.
If you see bubbles in the coolant while it is running, you have a cracked
head, block cavitation, or leaking head gasket causing combustion air
intrusion into coolant system. IF, as engine temp increases
On 22/02/2015 3:45 PM, Andrew Strasfogel via Mercedes wrote:
I say the temperature gauge is faulty.
Pay attention Andrew.
It overheats and spews coolant out of the overflow hose.
If it was just an issue of a bad sensor or gauge, it would tell you it
was hot but it would not spew coolant.
RB
On 21/02/2015 7:53 AM, dseretakis--- via Mercedes wrote:
I will do the tstat trick when I get the car back from the mechanic if it's not
"fixed".
Keep in mind that our winter has been absolutely brutal and the last thing I
want to do is work on cars in this weather!
How about the oil and co
I will continue the troubleshooting when I get it back from Indy. I promise.
Sent from my iPhone
On Feb 23, 2015, at 9:05 AM, Curly McLain via Mercedes
wrote:
>> Now you're just getting silly. It originally smelled hot because it WAS hot.
>> The temp gauge was pegged, the heater wasn't leaki
Now you're just getting silly.
It originally smelled hot because it WAS hot. The temp gauge was
pegged, the heater wasn't leaking, the radiator hose fell off
remember?
You are right that coolant is leaking, it comes right out the
radiator fill, you can watch it happen. A radiator cap strong eno
cap strong enough to prevent that happening
would make the radiator or its hoses rupture. You shouldn't need the radiator
cap present to prevent overheating at idle...
-Curt
From: Curly McLain via Mercedes
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Sent: Monday, February 23, 2015 8:39 AM
Su
This a strong hint towards a cracked head or gasket.
or air in the system that is not getting burped out.
or leakage
Any good radiator shop can check for exhaust gas in the coolant.
lets diagnose the problem.
The headgasket was condemned before without diagnosis. Changing the
headgasket d
Hans Neureiter wrote:
This a strong hint towards a cracked head or gasket.
In the past we had the heads "magnafluxed". Is that still the way to
check for head cracks?
Gerry
FOr cast iron heads, yes. In the case of OM621, OM615 to OM617
heads, the cracks generally are visible to the naked
Hans Neureiter wrote:
> This a strong hint towards a cracked head or gasket.
In the past we had the heads "magnafluxed". Is that still the way to check for
head cracks?
Gerry
___
http://www.okiebenz.com
To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive
This a strong hint towards a cracked head or gasket.
On Feb 22, 2015 4:06 PM, "Andrew Strasfogel via Mercedes" <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
> I keep on forgetting the boiling over stuff.
>
> On Sun, Feb 22, 2015 at 4:56 PM, Peter Frederick via Mercedes <
> mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
>
> > Fa
However, you can only see the outside. It is possible that a crack is
between ports inside. the symptoms don't sound like a cracked head though.
The best theory that I've heard so far is the floating piece of crap that
blocks a passage sometimes, and not others. Perhaps (and this is a wild
guess)
However, you can only see the outside. It is possible that a crack is
between ports inside. the symptoms don't sound like a cracked head though.
The best theory that I've heard so far is the floating piece of crap that
blocks a passage sometimes, and not others. Perhaps (and this is a wild
guess) i
Yes I couldn't see any flaws either.
Sent from my iPhone
> On Feb 22, 2015, at 8:16 PM, Dwight Giles via Mercedes
> wrote:
>
> I cleaned & carefully examined the head & block when we changed the head
> gasket. I saw nothing indicating a crack.
> On Feb 22, 2015 6:37 PM, "Curly McLain via Merce
I cleaned & carefully examined the head & block when we changed the head
gasket. I saw nothing indicating a crack.
On Feb 22, 2015 6:37 PM, "Curly McLain via Mercedes"
wrote:
> Ah, thanks for the update.
>>
>> So, the next obvious thing should be to pull the head and have it
>> pressured
>> teste
Ah, thanks for the update.
So, the next obvious thing should be to pull the head and have it pressured
tested, no? The initial cause was a loss of coolant, so checking all those
other things doesn't make much sense really.
Jaime
There are many much less difficult tests that will point toward
I keep on forgetting the boiling over stuff.
On Sun, Feb 22, 2015 at 4:56 PM, Peter Frederick via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
> Faulty temperature gauge won't make it pressurize and spill coolant!
>
> Peter
>
> ___
> http://www.okiebenz.com
>
> To
Faulty temperature gauge won't make it pressurize and spill coolant!
Peter
___
http://www.okiebenz.com
To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercede
A faulty temp gauge does not cause coolant to spew out - - -
I recommend finding another engine and swapping them.
On Sun, Feb 22, 2015 at 3:45 PM, Andrew Strasfogel via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
> I say the temperature gauge is faulty.
>
--
OK Don
NSA: The only branch of gove
e issue to go away. Somewhere in the troubleshooting phase I
> replaced
> > the
> > >> thermostat which changed nothing.
> > >> I needed a car so I bought the Jetta and the 240D sat unloved for a
> year
> > >> until I hauled it to Dimitri.
> > >&g
d the 240D sat unloved for a year
> >> until I hauled it to Dimitri.
> >> There have been 3 thermostats in the car from 3 different sources since
> >> the issue started. I find it far fetched that all three (2 of which test
> >> good in a pan of water) would fail in
have been 3 thermostats in the car from 3 different sources since
>> the issue started. I find it far fetched that all three (2 of which test
>> good in a pan of water) would fail in exactly the same way but only
>> sometimes.
>> Up to date?
>> -Curt
>> From:
ce
> the issue started. I find it far fetched that all three (2 of which test
> good in a pan of water) would fail in exactly the same way but only
> sometimes.
> Up to date?
> -Curt
> From: Curly McLain via Mercedes
> To: Mercedes Discussion List
> Sent: Saturday
. I find it far fetched that all three (2 of which test
>> good in a pan of water) would fail in exactly the same way but only
>> sometimes.
>> Up to date?
>> -Curt
>> From: Curly McLain via Mercedes
>> To: Mercedes Discussion List
>> Sent: Saturday, Februa
only
> sometimes.
> Up to date?
> -Curt
> From: Curly McLain via Mercedes
> To: Mercedes Discussion List
> Sent: Saturday, February 21, 2015 8:27 PM
> Subject: Re: [MBZ] Overheating 240D more info
>
> Has anyone tried turning the heater and fan on full blast when it is
sometimes.
Up to date?
-Curt
From: Curly McLain via Mercedes
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Sent: Saturday, February 21, 2015 8:27 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Overheating 240D more info
Has anyone tried turning the heater and fan on full blast when it is
overheating? that is an old time
OK Don sez: Concord?
The prince of darkness was involved with that too.
Renault
Labor strikes, low productivity
___
http://www.okiebenz.com
To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://m
If the flap on the bottom of the thermostat isn't correct, it won't
work properly and will cause overheating if it doesn't close off the
short circuit around the block it is supposed to seal off. This is
designed to heat the engine up more quickly, and in spite of the
very simple design, I'm a
Curly wrote:
The thermostat I put in was marked "Made in France"
...
Third world country. Not exactly known for making fine machinery.
Airbus?
mao
Exactly
___
http://www.okiebenz.com
To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
To Un
Concord?
On Sat, Feb 21, 2015 at 4:58 PM, Mountain Man via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
> Curly wrote:
> >> The thermostat I put in was marked "Made in France"
>
> ...
>
> > Third world country. Not exactly known for making fine machinery.
> >
>
> Airbus?
> mao
>
>
--
OK Don
NSA
At the risk of being redumdant ... The thermostat needs to be installed in a
particular orientation (arrow up). There is an air vent passage in the
thermostat casting to vent trapped air the thermostat; if plugged this would
prevent proper bleeding of air when re-filling the system.
From Mao:
Curly wrote:
>>> The thermostat I put in was marked "Made in France"
...
>> Third world country. Not >>exactly known for making fine >>machinery.
>
>Airbus?
Now that's redundant.
http://www.airsafe.com/events/models/rate_mod.htm
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KEH7OpnA-I4&sns=e
Curly wrote:
>> The thermostat I put in was marked "Made in France"
...
> Third world country. Not exactly known for making fine machinery.
>
Airbus?
mao
___
http://www.okiebenz.com
To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
To Unsubscribe o
Yes but the current thermostat came from the classic center right?
On Feb 21, 2015 10:24 AM, "Peter Frederick via Mercedes" <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
> If the flap on the bottom of the thermostat isn't correct, it won't work
> properly and will cause overheating if it doesn't close off the s
If the flap on the bottom of the thermostat isn't correct, it won't
work properly and will cause overheating if it doesn't close off the
short circuit around the block it is supposed to seal off. This is
designed to heat the engine up more quickly, and in spite of the very
simple design, I
If your indy has modified the T-stat, then you may need another.
> On Feb 21, 2015, at 8:53 AM, dseretakis--- via Mercedes
> wrote:
>
> I will do the tstat trick when I get the car back from the mechanic if it's
> not "fixed".
> Keep in mind that our winter has been absolutely brutal and the
1 - 100 of 281 matches
Mail list logo