I stand corrected. Thanks Joe
At 08:43 AM 7/28/2005, you wrote:
The fsm, iirc, is pretty specific about *not* using the valve to
adjust ride height, Loren. That path is said to be fraught with
peril. Valve arm is supposed to be adjusted to the neutral position
with a specified load.
joe
___
The fsm, iirc, is pretty specific about *not* using the valve to
adjust ride height, Loren. That path is said to be fraught with
peril. Valve arm is supposed to be adjusted to the neutral position
with a specified load.
joe
There should be no need to change spring pads unless the old ones have
disintegrated. Ride height is adjusted at the hydraulic control
valve. Our TE was very saggy when we got it. I put in new accumulators
and sway bar links and adjusted the ride height on the valve and it was
great after th
Richard,
Yes, I have to step and lower the mast each time I launch. Rather a hassle,
makes the power boat crowd very curious (but usually they're too polite to
stare and point), and I'm still working on refining the process to get the time
required more reasonable. I once did it in 30 minutes
Nope, don't have it. I so far have gotten away without needing one,
but I guess the time will come someday that I have to have that tool.
Do you drop the mast on each takedown? So far I have not had to do
that, and it has made sailing more enjoyable. I kept my boat at a
club for years that all
It's my *incomplete* understanding that the spring compressor is not
really required for the rears. Maybe others who've actually been
there can chime in on that.
joe
Richard,
I'm not sure what class it is, it is 20 ft long with a sloop rig. Really a
very enjoyable boat, and so far the cost has been reasonable. My wife and I
are really having fun with it, just wish the heat and humidity would become
more reasonable. The set-up and take-down cycles each ta
this on to my Indie.
V/r Max
From: David Bruckmann <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Date: 2005/07/26 Tue PM 09:42:52 EDT
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
CC: Meade Dillon <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Bouncy SLS on my wagon ('85
Meade,
If the bounce is SOFT and/or the car is sagging, your base pressure
is low. When the internal spring weakens in the base pressure
component of the levelling valve, base pressure is allowed to escape,
which in turn leads to a SOFT bounce. The relevant, poorly translated
passage from Cha
rumor has it that [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> Richard,
>
> Is there some valving that goes on inside
> those? I think that their function in the system is basically the
> same as shock absorbers in a normal suspension set-up, so it would
> make sense that they would have some valving like a shock
I bet. What class is the boat?
My ride would have been considered 'hard bouncy'. Hard to describe
unless you were in the car. If I hit any bump with any load in the
rear, the bounce came from the springs after the SLS spheres 'bottomed
out'. That is how I imagined what was going on based on th
Richard,
Thanks for the info. So, your car was also bouncy when the spheres needed to
be replaced? I thought that the failure mode for those was a hard ride, not
bouncy. Is there some valving that goes on inside those? I think that their
function in the system is basically the same as shock
Meade,
Wild guess, hard to tell w/o actually comparing the ride to mine (c: .
But I bet you have a combination of valve rebuild (leaks down, not at
right height w/trailer attached) and sphere (bounce).
I dont see how the valve could affect only one side, but since the
spheres are individual to
Dieselvolk,
Well, this past weekend I towed my sailboat back and forth from storage to boat
shop to house to boat ramp, and found the experience most unpleasant. Lots of
bouncing, tongue of trailer yanking on the hitch like a wild animal trying to
escape, having to drive real slow on the rough
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