Please notify explain why a bad thermostat would make the coolant come out the
radiator neck.
Curt
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Only place it can come out unless you have a leak somewhere. Once the
coolant starts to boil it will lift the pressure relief in the cap.
Most OEM thermostats from MB have a bleed valve, so boiling coolant
can leak through to the upper radiator hose.
I would back-flush the radiator too,
If the coolant was boiling out could you put your finger in it? This is too
soon and not hot enough and theres no heat at the heater core.
And I already replaced the thermostat once...
Curt
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To
Dimitri,
Is there a valve on this car between the engine and the heater valve? Also,
IIRC, the heater valves on that car look as though they might be frozen. Check
for actual valve movement with lever movement.
Jon
On Nov 30, 2014, at 10:18 AM, Curt Raymond via Mercedes
I'm not sure if there is a valve. The heat worked last week so I don't think
that's the prob. There is just no coolant circulation into heater core for some
reason.
Sent from my iPhone
On Nov 30, 2014, at 10:34 AM, Jon Agne via Mercedes mercedes@okiebenz.com
wrote:
Dimitri,
Is there a
The coolant that was boiling out was hot.
Sent from my iPhone
On Nov 30, 2014, at 10:18 AM, Curt Raymond via Mercedes
mercedes@okiebenz.com wrote:
If the coolant was boiling out could you put your finger in it? This is too
soon and not hot enough and theres no heat at the heater core.
Real hot or just warm? When it was doing it to me it was maybe 100F, like hot
bath water. When I've had coolant push out from a stuck thermostat it was a big
blast all at once and was very hot.
Curt
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It was very hot.
Sent from my iPhone
On Nov 30, 2014, at 1:13 PM, Curt Raymond via Mercedes
mercedes@okiebenz.com wrote:
Real hot or just warm? When it was doing it to me it was maybe 100F, like hot
bath water. When I've had coolant push out from a stuck thermostat it was a
big blast
Interesting, changing symptoms might mean a new problem. Its easy enough to jam
the thermostat open to test.
Curt
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This car is possessed. How could it run perfectly after doing nothing to it
then act up again? At the end of the day I think a leakdown test is a must. It
should show me air bubbling thru coolant if head issue.
Sent from my iPhone
On Nov 30, 2014, at 1:45 PM, Curt Raymond via Mercedes
-boun...@okiebenz.com] On Behalf Of
Curt Raymond via Mercedes
Sent: Sunday, November 30, 2014 7:44 AM
To: Curly McLain; dsereta...@yahoo.com; Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Dwight and Curt's former 240D
Please notify explain why a bad thermostat would make the coolant come
out
and Curt's former 240D
Another possibility that you should be able to find in the archives (if we
still have one) is that some have found corrosion/pitting in the groves
that the t-stats seats in when it opens-closes. No seal, and it's like the
t-stat isn't there. I don't remember which engine
I agree with Curt that the likelihood of the thermostat being faulty is
probably a stretch but I'll likely replace it with an MB original nevertheless-
hello Classic Center.
I think my next course of action is to do a leakdown test to see if any air
leaks into radiator.
Sent from my iPhone
As you know i have never been convinced that it was or is a head gasket.
Thst gasket h block top was in too good of shape. My indy Fred-who was at Q
said 240 heads never go. Bolts are another matter i donbt know about. That
said leakdown test is #1. I had compression tested 325-350. All good. Wish
Anyone here use steel seal or other such head gasket sealing product with
success?
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But a thermostat can and does often come and go. Why not replace the
thermostat first, or put a .45 shell in in as Jim suggests? That is
the easiest, fastest and cheapest test, and the cheapest fix.
A new thermostat (curt installed) does not equal a working thermostat.
It's my
Anyone here use steel seal or other such head gasket sealing
product with success?
Do you have a leaking headgasket or a bad thermostat?
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It was fine for a week but it's cooling system started rearing it's ugly head
again! Hahaha.
Ok so I can't get the lower rad hose to warm up even when upper hose is hot-
engine is running hot at this point with coolant boiling out of rad neck.
Shouldn't lower hose be hot instead of stone cold
I ride the DC Metro (subway) daily during AM and PM rush hours, when seats
are at a premium. Since I am a Senior Citizen by the numbers - though not
decrepit - I don't mind staying seated while younger ladies are standing.
My rule, however, is to offer my seat to ANYONE regardless of age or
It was fine for a week but it's cooling system started rearing it's
ugly head again! Hahaha.
Ok so I can't get the lower rad hose to warm up even when upper hose
is hot- engine is running hot at this point with coolant boiling out
of rad neck. Shouldn't lower hose be hot instead of stone cold
On Fri, 28 Nov 2014 14:13:32 -0600 Curly McLain via Mercedes
mercedes@okiebenz.com wrote:
I'd try running it with the thermostat out and the radiator blocked.
won't warm up much in extreme cold, but upper, lower and heater hoses
should all be the same temperature. Rust or a rag stuffed in
Yes, the joys of yorkiedom. Ya hafta take the bleedin bracket off,
or at least completely loose. If its not bleedin when you start,
generally your hands will be bleedin by the time you get it loose. I
don't hate york compressors per se, i just despise the bracket that
was used to mount
And make sure you have a proper Benz thermostat, there are
aftermarkets out there that do not have the flap on the back. Causes
poor circulation and overheating every time.
I would also check for a collapsed lower hose and good flow through
the radiator -- if the tubes are full of crap,
If I force the thermostat open, how is is different from leaving it out
altogether?
Sent from my iPhone
On Nov 28, 2014, at 3:24 PM, Craig via Mercedes mercedes@okiebenz.com wrote:
On Fri, 28 Nov 2014 14:13:32 -0600 Curly McLain via Mercedes
mercedes@okiebenz.com wrote:
I'd try running
It is not an OE tstat.
The rad seems to have good flow and I don't see any scale rust etc in the tubes.
I went through the motions of burping it but I'm not sure if it made a
difference.
I'm thinking about putting it all back together and testing the coolant with
one of those combustion gas
Discussion List
Subject: [MBZ] Dwight and Curt's former 240D
It was fine for a week but it's cooling system started rearing it's ugly
head
again! Hahaha.
Ok so I can't get the lower rad hose to warm up even when upper hose is
hot- engine is running hot at this point with coolant boiling out
that
procedure, I didn't need to burp.
-Original Message-
From: Mercedes [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On Behalf Of
dseretakis--- via Mercedes
Sent: Friday, November 28, 2014 4:18 PM
To: Peter Frederick; Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Dwight and Curt's former 240D
It is not an OE tstat.
Bingo! Buy the correct thermostat and a new oring from a stealer.
That is not the place to go cheap.
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I'd be inclined to suspect the thermostat or a plugged radiator before
messing with the water pump. If you pull the lower radiator hose and dump
water in the top, it should flow out with ease. The thermostat is unlike US
designs. In the full cold position it blocks flow to the radiator but
I’ll be home late Sunday night. If you need the truck, call Meg and she’ll
give you a key.
Jon
PS: Order the T-stat now so you have it Monday
On Nov 28, 2014, at 4:17 PM, dseretakis--- via Mercedes
mercedes@okiebenz.com wrote:
It is not an OE tstat.
The rad seems to have good flow
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Dwight and Curt's former 240D
It is not an OE tstat.
Bingo! Buy the correct thermostat and a new oring from a stealer.
That is not the place to go cheap.
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Discussion List
mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Friday, November 28, 2014 2:58 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Dwight and Curt's former 240D
I ride the DC Metro (subway) daily during AM and PM rush hours, when seats
are at a premium. Since I am a Senior Citizen by the numbers - though not
decrepit - I don't
2:58 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Dwight and Curt's former 240D
I ride the DC Metro (subway) daily during AM and PM rush hours, when seats
are at a premium. Since I am a Senior Citizen by the numbers - though not
decrepit - I don't mind staying seated while younger ladies are standing.
My rule
Coolant Circuit - Full Load:
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/attachments/diesel-discussion/10970d1061647597-240d-getting-warm-figure-1-coolant-circuit.jpg
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/attachments/diesel-discussion/10970d1061647597-240d-getting-warm-figure-1-coolant-circuit.jpg
T-stat
If I force the thermostat open, how is is different from leaving it
out altogether?
Without a thermostat, the MB engines essentially won't be cooled.
Using an electrical analog, the typical US thermostat design is
a SPST switch. The one Mercedes uses is an SPDT switch. If you
leave it out
I agree that it behaves as if there is a physical block preventing coolant from
circulating but let's say a blown headgasket or crack in head is pushing
exhaust gases into cooling system- will this not cause the water pump to get
air locked and no longer be able to pump? With blown headgasket
So you are only blocking the top of the thermostat with the shell
casing?
So now where do I get a shell casing?:)
The wax pellet, expanding with heat, pushes out the rod, thus
driving the two plates to open/close their respective passages.
I just use something to hold the thing open that can't
A short piece of brake line would work too.
My '81 300TD had no thermostat when I got it. Interestingly it would run fine
for up to around half an hour before it would overheat unless you shut it off.
If shut off and restarted it would rapidly overheat. If I left it overnight it
would be fine
and Curt's former 240D
I agree that it behaves as if there is a physical block preventing coolant
from circulating but let's say a blown headgasket or crack in head is pushing
exhaust gases into cooling system- will this not cause the water pump to get
air locked and no longer be able to pump
Another possibility that you should be able to find in the archives (if we
still have one) is that some have found corrosion/pitting in the groves
that the t-stats seats in when it opens-closes. No seal, and it's like the
t-stat isn't there. I don't remember which engine was experiencing this.
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