OK, found the sensor or the rear of the right head. 0 ohms cold,
the switched to infinite as the engine warmed up. tried jumping the
two sockets in the plug. No difference, so I figured the $800 idle
control valve (ICV) is defunct.
Then removed the wires to ICV and with the engine
4. ICV 12v test shuts the engine down immediately. indicates ICV is
ok.
Indicates ICV is not completely dead. It might be sticky,
and unable to move smoothly as it should. Have you cleaned
it out thoroughly with brake cleaner?
-- Jim
___
Not yet. Have to go several miles to FLAPS for brake cleaner. Blew
several shots of wd40 into it last night as a cleaner. not much dirt
came out.
On barry's 81, the test procedure is 3 pages of pdf and includes 3
electric and 2 electro/mechanical components.
On the 83 on USA version the
85 380SL
After the 12v test passed and I was stumped, I printed the 18 page
page troubleshooting pdf to plan my attack without the special tools.
Put the wires back on the ICV to start the engine and do the test of
the vacuum switch. No start, so obviously the ICV did not open up.
tapped on
If the car is running and you unplug the ICV, does it do
anything? IIRC the quick and dirty test is if the idle goes way
up then its good. If it does nothing, its bad.
On 9/27/2010 12:16 PM, Dieselhead wrote:
85 380SL
After the 12v test passed and I was stumped, I printed the 18
page
Makes no difference. there is a pulsed signal to it about 60 cycles
and about half on half off at 1600 to 2000 rpm. the wire to ground
is ok. I know the ICV is bad. still have to test the oil pressure
switch, wires and relay.
If the car is running and you unplug the ICV, does it do
Tried hunting vacuum leaks later today. The boots for the ICV are a
little loose. I pulled the one off that goes straight down from the
straight end of the ICV. in the end, the idle is now higher, about
2500. There is some form of boot that goes under what I would call
the throttle body
there is still a possibility that the wires are hooked to the ICV
backwards, as it does not have an original plug, but red individual
crimp on connectors. there does not appear to be any orienting lug
on the ICV, so I tend to think the it does not matter as to polarity.
But that is an
other trick is to FIND it. The pdf shoes it on the firewall near the
brake booster. Not on this car. Probably under the pass side dash.
Yup. See:
http://userweb.windwireless.net/~jimc/SL2log.html#21Aug2007
-- Jim
___
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new
OK, I pulled off the wires, and one terminal came off the wire.
pulled out the idle speed control/motor and looked at it. there was
a 12v pulse signal at the hot wire and the other appeared to have
continuity to ground. all the hoses and vac look ok.
So I thought maybe the wire that came
Fred -
Sound to me like the cold engine sensor is not working. Did you get the pdf
file that I sent you (07.3-112.pdf 2Mb) early Saturday AM? It was the file
that Jamie was referring to. Not sure how your SL is set up but on my '81
there is a temperature sensor in the back of the right cylinder
Uh, that was my SL question. No, I didn't get a pdf. send it to
126die...@gmail.com thanks.
Fred -
Sound to me like the cold engine sensor is not working. Did you get the pdf
file that I sent you (07.3-112.pdf 2Mb) early Saturday AM? It was the file
that Jamie was referring to. Not sure how
Well guess what: Rusty's website says that idle control valve is
$800 or more at the friendly local stealership. Only $350 from Rust
man. for a $25 part. Ok, to be fair if I call him he will probably
sell it for less, but $300 is still a lot of money to slow down the
idle. How bout I
Dieselhead wrote:
Wonder if i can drill a hole in it and then thread in one of those
self-tapping drain plugs, or even a metal building screw with the washer
and neoprene seal. The plug may cause an imbalance, but I doubt the
screw would cause significant imbalance.I guess I could put in
Ah! good idea. If the fluid/pan look bad, i will use that trick.
Dieselhead wrote:
Wonder if i can drill a hole in it and then thread in one of those
self-tapping drain plugs, or even a metal building screw with the
washer and neoprene seal. The plug may cause an imbalance, but I
doubt
Its probably the idle control relay, Im not sure where its going
to be on a 107, but on a 126 its between the 2 firewalls. It will
say 8zyl on it
On 9/24/2010 12:27 PM, Dieselhead wrote:
this car seems to idle very high when it is in neutral. It is
like the high idle never goes to normal
Any way to check the OVP relay, other than looking at the fuse?
Measure the voltage coming off of it?
So the wires are fed power by the OVP relay?
The computer that monitors and regulates idle speed is powered
by the OVP. The computer (idle speed 'relay') powers the valve.
So if I could
Thanks for the clue. I may be sending you an email to see if you
have one for sale. Or maybe that realy and an OVP relay.
Now I think I have all the pieses out together to understand how it
is supposed to funtion, how to find the parts, and how to diagnose it
Man~ana.(mon-yon-a)
Kaleb
Oh Man! Now you went and messed up what I thought I understood! I
will see what I can figger out tomorrow. Whats a PWM? the PKW PWM,
Of course! I know it is on a PKW, but I don't know what the PWM Is.
PassWordMonitor? Ich Schpraken ze Dumkopf?
Any way to check the OVP relay, other
On Sat, 25 Sep 2010 14:59:52 -0500 Dieselhead 126die...@gmail.com wrote:
Oh Man! Now you went and messed up what I thought I understood! I
will see what I can figger out tomorrow. Whats a PWM? the PKW PWM,
Of course! I know it is on a PKW, but I don't know what the PWM Is.
this car seems to idle very high when it is in neutral. It is like
the high idle never goes to normal idle. When you start the engine,
it goes to about 2000 rpm and stays there. When you put it into D or
R, the engine slows enough to be ok. I did not check the tach, but I
would say 750 to
D'head.
Air leak, or stuck idle control motor?
I know nada about the 380SL's fuel system.
Fred Moir
Lynn MA
Diesel preferred.
On 9/24/2010 1:27 PM, Dieselhead wrote:
this car seems to idle very high when it is in neutral. It is like
the high idle never goes to normal idle. When you start the
You're right on Fred... most likely an issue with the idle control.
The idle valve looks like this:
http://www.autohausaz.com/secure/PartImages/0001411225.jpg
Take a look at it and all the rubber hoses that connect it. Anything
dried or up cracked should be replaced. Most likely, it all needs to
Check the condition of the idle control valve, make sure it's plugged
in, and that the hoses are good. Clean it with brake parts cleaner
if the hoses are bad -- block one side, fill it up, shake it a bit,
dump out the solvent, repeat until it's not dirty after shaking.
Check for other
Idle air controller isn't able to shut down quite enough
to keep enough air out to keep the RPM's down when unloaded?
Could be air leaks, cloggy valve, or even the controller messing
up. But if the controller _does_ work under load, it's probably
a mechanical problem. (Unplug idle air valve,
I will work on the idle tomorrow or Sun afternoon. Decided to change
the trans oil and filter on the 00 Dogde caravan tomorrow, before I
mess with the SL again.
Anyone BTDT on a caravan or other crypsler product? any gotchas? I
think it should be as simple as on the SL, except that I don't
Thanks for the picture. Where is it located? I assume somewhere
under the massive air cleaner. What are the connections? are the
small ones electric terminals or vacuum? If the small ones are
vacuum, then what are the large 90degree openings to? Intake air?
I thought I was told that the
IIRC, yes - it's as simple as the SL. I also don't think the TC has a drain
plug.
On Fri, Sep 24, 2010 at 9:16 PM, Dieselhead 126die...@gmail.com wrote:
I will work on the idle tomorrow or Sun afternoon. Decided to change the
trans oil and filter on the 00 Dogde caravan tomorrow, before I
Wonder if i can drill a hole in it and then thread in one of those
self-tapping drain plugs, or even a metal building screw with the
washer and neoprene seal. The plug may cause an imbalance, but I
doubt the screw would cause significant imbalance.I guess I could
put in 2 plugs/screws 180
Where is it located? I assume somewhere under the massive air cleaner.
Yes.
What are the connections?
Two large air pipes, one to each side of the throttle plate.
Two wires.
I thought I was told that the OVP relay played into this somehow?
Idle speed computer eats OVP power. No power
Ah! thanks much. Now it is starting to make sense.
Any way to check the OVP relay, other than looking at the fuse?
So the wires are fed power by the OVP relay? So if I could figure
out which one is supposed to be hot, then jump +12v to it, then the
idle slows down, I know the OVP or the
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