nging in the air. If they were
bad at least they weren't bad enough to let it separate there.
Manfred
Date: Wed, 14 Jul 2010 00:46:36 -0500
From: Fmiser
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] W123 wagon with jarring ride and and inaccurate
speedometer
rect everything wrong and the car rode like a dream when I was
done.
-Max
-Original Message-
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com
[mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On Behalf Of Fmiser
Sent: Wednesday, July 14, 2010 1:47 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] W123 wagon with j
> Dillon, Meade M CIV SPAWARSYSCEN-ATLANTIC, 53310 wrote:
> Also, there is a shade-tree method for determining if your
> car's rear end height is correct or not. You should find 19
> inches measuring from the center of the star in the wheel
> straight up and over the lip of the fender to the
> ch
Nothing obviously wrong with the rear valve either.
On Mon, Jul 12, 2010 at 6:15 PM, Rich Thomas <
richthomas79td...@constructivity.net> wrote:
> That little turnbuckle thingie that connects the valve with whatever else
> under there might be broken too, it has some plastic inserts at each
> swiv
That little turnbuckle thingie that connects the valve with whatever
else under there might be broken too, it has some plastic inserts at
each swiveling attachment point, those things break and wear out (like
mine did up the street from my house, the car looked like a 65 chebby
with air shocks
He said his ride was all the way up, I do believe. But you are right,
whenever I have a hard ride, its always the accumulators.
Fmiser wrote:
andrew strasfogel wrote:
I've since replaced that used one with a new one, so the car
now has two "fresh" accumulators.
Per chance, is
As far as the self leveling part, I will measure to see if the rear height
is correct (19") per Max' advice. Otherwise, the car never sags during
periods of rest/disuse.
On Mon, Jul 12, 2010 at 12:15 PM, Fmiser wrote:
> > andrew strasfogel wrote:
>
> > I've since replaced that used one with a n
> andrew strasfogel wrote:
> I've since replaced that used one with a new one, so the car
> now has two "fresh" accumulators.
Per chance, is the "hard" side the now slightly used
accumulator? That is, the one that was in service along with
the used one?
Your description exactly fits my experien
I've since replaced that used one with a new one, so the car now has two
"fresh" accumulators. And yes, despite the wawrnings I received a
dousing of used SLS fluid when I disconnected the line into the sphere.
It's not that bad, BTW - sort of like a cocktail of 10W30 and biodiesel.
On Mon, Jul 1
rcedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On Behalf Of David Bruckmann
> Sent: Sunday, July 11, 2010 6:17 PM
> To: mercedes@okiebenz.com
> Subject: Re: [MBZ] W123 wagon with jarring ride and and inaccurate
> speedometer
>
> I would proceed in the following order:
>
> 1. Check the rubber m
bably acceptable.
-Max
-Original Message-
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com
[mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On Behalf Of David Bruckmann
Sent: Sunday, July 11, 2010 6:17 PM
To: mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] W123 wagon with jarring ride and and inaccurate
speedometer
I would pr
> andrew strasfogel wrote:
> As for the spheres - they're both NEW and operate as they
> should.
Is this the car that has one brand new accumulator and one
that's a bit older and was is service with a used one? Or did
you just put on two fresh , new ones?
-- Philip
___
I would proceed in the following order:
1. Check the rubber mounts at the top of the strut. If you had bad spheres,
these mounts may well be pulverised/absent. Check also the bottom balljoint.
2. Test the function of the levelling valve (see instructions below)
3. Remove and test/replace the st
andrew strasfogel wrote:
Am going to try an 85 speedometer to see if that helps.
Is your odometer accurate? If so, changing gauge heads would not be the
solution.
IIRC, the difference is between a 3.07:1 final drive and 2.88:1.
A 3.07 odometer would read 6.2% low when connected to a 2.88 diff
hey!
sorry; i was confused on my last post; was looking at your sig line
and thinking we were talking of your '85.
so, unless someone changed your rear end out for one out of an '85,
you might want to check the P/N on the speedo to make sure what you have
in there already it the correc
Am going to try an 85 speedometer to see if that helps.
On Sun, Jul 11, 2010 at 1:36 PM, ernest breakfield <
erne...@backyardengineering.org> wrote:
> as for the speedo, it seems we just went over this recently, but i don't
> recall the outcome. have you verified you have the correct speedo in th
I did a road test and the car seems to handle the bumps fine when I maneuver
so as to hit potholes on the left (good) side. I think it's worth a try to
R/R the right rear strut that's leaking.
As for the spheres - they're both NEW and operate as they should.
On Sun, Jul 11, 2010 at 11:15 AM, Kal
as for the speedo, it seems we just went over this recently, but i don't
recall the outcome. have you verified you have the correct speedo in
there that was matched to the higher rear-end ratio of the '85s? (you
should be able to read the P/N at the bottom of the face of the
instrument panel.)
I told you months ago the speedo parts in the tranny were the same. As
for the SLS, the strut has nothing to do with acting like a shock, its
the job of the spheres. I dont think a slightly leaking strut could
cause the problem but I could be wrong. Maybe you got some bad
spheres. If the ca
The spheres ARE the spring (the part that allows movement and
produces "spring" effect). The damping is provided by the valving in
the struts, and the height control is provided by the volume of fluid
in the bottom half of the strut vs the upper half, controlled by the
valve on the sway ba
Jim Cathey wrote:
I just wanted to clarify: I believe the job of the spheres
is to act as the adjustable spring. They don't do much shock
absorbtion themselves, other than any fluid energy loss to
heat during normal operation. (When they've failed normally
they are acting more like bars of stee
I just wanted to clarify: I believe the job of the spheres
is to act as the adjustable spring. They don't do much shock
absorbtion themselves, other than any fluid energy loss to
heat during normal operation. (When they've failed normally
they are acting more like bars of steel than springs, hen
He said that the function of the struts was to act as a shock absorber,
yet I thought that was the job of the air cells.
Consider what the nature of 'shock absorbtion' is. The sudden
onslaught of kinetic energy is taken up in a spring, and released
more slowly, dissipating the excess as heat.
I drove my 1983 300TD wagon (the one with functional SLS and transplanted
1985 transmission) to an MBCA tech session at a local dealership yesterday.
While the car was on a lift I discussed two nagging problems with their
chief tech for older models.
The first one is the speedometer that reads 10
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